It was suggested that the tops fell off of the prints due to the flush volumes being too low. Here are some follow up shorts: Testing 400, 500 and 600 flush volumes: ruclips.net/user/shortsXCteUydTDiM?si=UTujHOo_m9CZz--c Testing 700, 800 and 900 flush volumes: ruclips.net/user/shortspIgU2GMvO1k?feature=share If you want to be sure there is no PETG left in the nozzle, 800mm^3 looks like the answer. (edit: added link for 700, 800 and 900 testing)
Wow, that’s a lot of flush volume. Not too bad in the case of a single flat surface as in the test cubes, but it could really add up for prints with lots of curved surfaces. Still a very useful technique, but it doesn’t come for free.
Your videos are seriously so helpful! I'm so tired of having to ask questions on the Bambu Labs reddit for no one to respond to my posts. Thank you for existing 😭
To avoid breaking off the top of the PETG supported cubes, there is probably still just enough PETG mixed into the PLA, so that the PLA layers aren't adhering as much as they should. To fix this, you may need to increase the "Flushing volumes" for "from" yellow "to" green. "Flushing volumes" is in the grey bar just above the filaments list.
yes, Flush Volumes is the answer... got the same a few times by accident. Cause the calculated volume for the color change between green and yellow isn't that big like on black to white or other way round. Get to 500-600 and you should be good
Yes I suspect this is the case. I thought naively that bambu studio would sort that out for me automatically when recalculating with a different material loaded up. Their flushing volumes for colors I find to be very generous. I guess their flushing volumes between materials aren't so generous.
@@3DPrintStuff Yeah, I wish their flushing volumes algorithm accounted for material type transitions as well as colors. I'm glad you did a quick follow-up. I haven't seen any in-depth videos on this, so that might be a useful video for the community. (I haven't explicitly looked for a video on the topic, but I get a lot of 3d printing recommendations from YT and I haven't gotten a recommendation from them for one on this topic.)
Thanks for doing all this testing! Love seeing the follow-up shorts with the FV testing. I've been wanting to try this for a while and it's super helpful that you've taken the guess work out of the settings for me.
i really wish there was a tool changer or dual extruder conversion for the bambu printers. dedicated support layers like this would be a game changer if they didn't require a purge tower.
Thank you so much! Your video is quick and on point and helped me. I have printed a part with PETG Translucent, where i were not able to remove the support, then the part got damaged. I followed your advice and Z Top Offset was changed from 0.16 to 0.275. With this setting, the print were perfect and the support very easy to remove. The quality of the supported areas were very good.
I have been wondering about the PETG support idea ever since I got my X1-Carbon a month or so ago. This video has convinced me to give it a try. Thanks!
Great video. I learned a lot about supports. Thank you. I use a Cricut weeding tool to get into those hard to reach places. It's small enough to dig into corners for lifting supports. It's a hardy tool and, imho, better than tweezers which have a tendency to bend under stress. I have found them at the dollar store in the craft section.
That’s a great tip. Those look like they’d be amazing for this. I used to have a sculpting tool that was basically a needle on a stick but I misplaced it. I miss that tool.
I have had pretty good success with Polymaker's breakaway support filament for PLA. Not the cheapest stuff out there, but Bambu Lab has a filament profile for it and it automatically adjusts some settings when you set the breakaway filament as the interface material. So far it has made removing supports a much easier and cleaner process for me, but I only use it on more complex prints since doing multi-color prints is quite wasteful with the nozzle purging and priming. They also make water dissolving support filament, which is pretty cool. But I have read that it's almost impossible to avoid it getting mixed in to the PLA when printing, which can lead to durability issues with your part. It's also like $60 per spool.
I have to give recognition to the print profile I learned these settings from, Jens93 made a great print profile for that motor model. God luck with your PETG interface prints, I don't use it very often but it's a good technique to have in the back pocket.
Another major thing you can do is print supports 45 degrees rotated from your normal part, it causes the layers to bind less strongly and much easier to remove.
It brokers when using PETG interface because you didn’t purge enough. So your top layers are printed with a mix of PETG/PLA which reduces the layer adhesion.
How does proper support material for PLA & PETG compare to using PETG on a PLA part? But I did learn a good few things to remember next time I use supports!
Things like the sphere you can paint in the supports on maybe 3 areas just where the overhand is worse. Same for the flat support, the bridging capabilities of the bambu are great. Just need to stop slight sagging. So I would only use pergola for the interface part and minimise the supports used in total. Quicker and cheaper
I thought naively that bambu studio would take into account the switch of materials. I guess they only think about color? Anyways I'll know for next time.
very good video thank you a lot. do you think that for small parts like mini figurines or space ship using PETG is worth it? i have issue to remove supports and that ruine my prints. thanks
The addition of the PETG is requiring a filament change and creating a cold break when the PLA resumes, in turn creating a fault line that breaks easily in the PLA part.
I thought bambu studio would take care of the transitions between materials on the flushing volume but I guess not. I'll know to increase the volumes next time. It's been suggested to use between 400-600. Do you have a number that works for you?
@@3DPrintStuff For me, 550 flush volume works well when going between materials for support interface. I'd also suggest to always place the prime tower towards the back of the build plate (near the poop chute). I have some issue with the print head flinging those poos across the bed, once had a 17 hour print fail because of that😫 . With the prime tower at the back, most poos get lost around the prime tower and don't travel around.
I don't buy this. I have done full plate objects with small areas needing support and used PETG for the interface. An entire layer of PETG ran across the entire object and it split in two. Full flushing enabled and no layer of PETG shown in the slice. I never use PETG/PLA combination now. The settings do use normally (unless unusual circumstances) just fall off wita clean interface.hIaefdg
Orca slicer - organic tree support - win Also if you fine-tune the settings correctly you can make it so it just pops right off and uses the absolutely least amount of filament needed. Give it a shot
Organic trees can be just as bad. I recently did a test trying to compare FDM to Resin on a bust, and printed with a 0.2mm nozzle at super fine layer height. The organic supports were so dense I threw the whole model away. It was literally impossible to get them all off.
@JohnVanderbeck I honestly believe it depends on how much geometry is in the model. Because the more trees there are the more mistakes can happen but that's also why I set rafts. It's just a lot of fine tuning but when you get it perfect then you don't really have to worry about much
I haven’t used PVA on the Bambu printers. But I used it on the ultimate S5 at work and it’s a bit of a pain to print with and removing it I found wasn’t as simple as just leaving it in water, it would turn into a sludgy mess. Just my experience tho.
Hello, I have watched almost all of your videos and learned a lot of valuable information for which I thank you. However, I bought a Bambulab P1S a month ago and have been printing for a month. Some prints come out well, but some are terrible. I get information from many sources, but the information I get doesn't seem to work. I don't understand why I can't do this. Could you please prepare a guide video on what people should do step-by-step to get a good print after buying a P1S?
You don’t really need to setup anything, it should, in theory, deliver amazing results just out of the box. When you are talking about having terrible prints, you should really try to identify the exact issue. If you can’t describe the problem with words, join some groups and communities and post your failed prints photo, many would be happy to help.
Hey sorry to hear that you're struggling with your P1S. Hard to troubleshoot with such little information. Maybe try posting your issues to www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/ people can be pretty rude over there but there are sill people who will help you out. Otherwise there's the bambu labs specific subreddit: www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/ Make sure you make a detailed post with the settings you're using, pictures of the sliced model and the result. Give as much information as you can so that people have the best chance of helping you.
My theory would be that the PETG off-gassing when at high temp for melting lingered around while the PLA was being melted and distributed and prevented binding. I'd love to see a comparison between the use of PLA / PETG in the same print VS PLA / Bambu Lab brand Support Material
Great videos! Keep em coming! My x1c printer came with "support for PLA" it seems to work well for this purpose. Is more expensive. Do you know what it is? How do i choose between that and PETG for support interface? Thanks!
I haven't played with the PLA support material but I would assume you don't need to purge as much between that and PLA vs using PETG. You should do a couple test prints of the same part and compare them yourself.
Very cool video, quite enjoyed it. I wonder if there would be a way to iron the zero clearance support interface with PETG to get an even cleaner surface, but the final print you showed look a lot better than the initial cube imo.
Glad you liked it. Ironing the support interface would be pretty cool and should produce a super smooth part. Maybe they'll add that feature in the future.
Yeah it’s a bit of a hack since Bambu studio won’t let you do it natively. You need to have a second part and turn them into an assembly in Bambu studio. Then you can make one of the two parts float. That’s why I have those little squares on the build plate beside the floating part. I wanted to include this in the video but I felt like it was kinda off topic and the video is already long enough.
@@SpwnDragn Yeah in Cura you could just toggle off "snap to build plate" or something along those lines and just put your part wherever you want... Hopefully bambu studio adds this at some point.
I think that there are very few situations where you would need to print flat surfaces with supports, rather than perpendicular to he build plate or directly on it. However, the print orientation I think it solves most of the stringy surfaces left after the removal of the supports. Your big piece could have been printed on one side, perpendicular to the build plate, or at a 45 degree angle to avoid support on the concave area, or minimize them, maybe use tree. This comes with experience and trial and error.
Many ways to achieve the same result and I do think there are situations where supports under flat surfaces are unavoidable so I’m just giving people options to have in their toolkit. I have also had good results with mostly flat parts printed at a 45 so maybe that can be an upcoming video.
Should probably have the title say choosing an interface material or something not fix stuck supports(makes it sound like it's just dialing in the settings)
Yeah, I was expecting some setting changes and not just using a dissimilar support material. I won't do that as it wastes too much filament for the things I print. Personally I increase the the Z support distance from .2 to .25 or even .27 to get the supports to come off easily.
I don't recommend petg / pla as support as the two materials are not compatible. Although it will work the result is poor layer adhesion from cross contamination and excessive waste from larger purging to remove contamination and even then once you print on top of the non compatible material your re-melting the other material slightly dragging around contamination. Print a Thin (T) shape and add support under the (T). Guaranteed its going to break at support interface layer. Petg/Pla as support really only works well on large flat overhang faces attached to a thick wall or body.
I’m new to all this but I think it’s because the tops came off because the sides cooled before the tops were being printed and they didn’t fuse together
Those parts fall off, cause there was not enough PETG purged out between the changes and probably some resedue of PETG is still between PLA which causes weakness. Solution might be to increase purge volume and/or make bit bigger purge tower.
Yes, I'm sorry haha. Another commenter from Germany also pointed this out. My English speaking brain did not interpret that correctly. I'll have to keep my eye out for Danish/Swedish/German names. Glad you got a laugh out of it.
I only use PLA. Why are bambu supports so much harder to remove than prusa supports? same model, same material….I just don’t gee why bambu have over complicated it as i thought they generally used similar splicer software?
Kind of misleading. Your PETG interface failures are due to not setting your filament purges/flush volume correctly. I purge 800 going from support to primary material. It takes a large poop to clean out the nozzle.
Sorry, not intentionally misleading. I thought Bambu studio would take into consideration the transition between materials and set the flush volume to an appropriate amount… I was wrong. Didn’t really think about it until after posting this. Should have done a reprint with higher flush volumes.
Interesting. Not *helpful* to me, since I don't have an AMS and feel like multi-material in a single nozzle is a gimmick, not a useful ability - but the results are very interesting! Although: I suspect it's not "gen-ess," but "yenz." As in the fairly common German and Scandinavian name, Jens.
It was suggested that the tops fell off of the prints due to the flush volumes being too low. Here are some follow up shorts:
Testing 400, 500 and 600 flush volumes: ruclips.net/user/shortsXCteUydTDiM?si=UTujHOo_m9CZz--c
Testing 700, 800 and 900 flush volumes: ruclips.net/user/shortspIgU2GMvO1k?feature=share
If you want to be sure there is no PETG left in the nozzle, 800mm^3 looks like the answer.
(edit: added link for 700, 800 and 900 testing)
Wow, that’s a lot of flush volume. Not too bad in the case of a single flat surface as in the test cubes, but it could really add up for prints with lots of curved surfaces. Still a very useful technique, but it doesn’t come for free.
Yeah 800 is also where I settled on with using PETG with PLA or vice versa ...
Do you use 800 from PLA to PETG & 800 from PETG to PLA?
@@peebs2424if using both during the same print, yes.
Your videos are seriously so helpful! I'm so tired of having to ask questions on the Bambu Labs reddit for no one to respond to my posts. Thank you for existing 😭
Hey thanks so much for this comment. Really makes making these videos worth it. Glad this video was helpful to you.
To avoid breaking off the top of the PETG supported cubes, there is probably still just enough PETG mixed into the PLA, so that the PLA layers aren't adhering as much as they should. To fix this, you may need to increase the "Flushing volumes" for "from" yellow "to" green.
"Flushing volumes" is in the grey bar just above the filaments list.
yes, Flush Volumes is the answer... got the same a few times by accident. Cause the calculated volume for the color change between green and yellow isn't that big like on black to white or other way round. Get to 500-600 and you should be good
Yes I suspect this is the case. I thought naively that bambu studio would sort that out for me automatically when recalculating with a different material loaded up. Their flushing volumes for colors I find to be very generous. I guess their flushing volumes between materials aren't so generous.
@@3DPrintStuff Yeah, I wish their flushing volumes algorithm accounted for material type transitions as well as colors. I'm glad you did a quick follow-up. I haven't seen any in-depth videos on this, so that might be a useful video for the community. (I haven't explicitly looked for a video on the topic, but I get a lot of 3d printing recommendations from YT and I haven't gotten a recommendation from them for one on this topic.)
Thanks for doing all this testing! Love seeing the follow-up shorts with the FV testing. I've been wanting to try this for a while and it's super helpful that you've taken the guess work out of the settings for me.
i really wish there was a tool changer or dual extruder conversion for the bambu printers. dedicated support layers like this would be a game changer if they didn't require a purge tower.
i always use 0,6 top interface spacing, also 0,3 on top Z distance! mostly works out
Thank you so much! Your video is quick and on point and helped me.
I have printed a part with PETG Translucent, where i were not able to remove the support, then the part got damaged.
I followed your advice and Z Top Offset was changed from 0.16 to 0.275.
With this setting, the print were perfect and the support very easy to remove.
The quality of the supported areas were very good.
Great video. I’ve used PETG as a support layer and have experienced “stickiness” to pla. Glad to see this is normal.
I have been wondering about the PETG support idea ever since I got my X1-Carbon a month or so ago. This video has convinced me to give it a try. Thanks!
Definitely worth a try, I won't use it very often personally but it's definitely a good option to have in the back pocket.
This video helped me a bunch! Have a print that I will be doing a lot of and it has some nasty supports, this will hep greatly. Thank you!
Great video. I learned a lot about supports. Thank you. I use a Cricut weeding tool to get into those hard to reach places. It's small enough to dig into corners for lifting supports. It's a hardy tool and, imho, better than tweezers which have a tendency to bend under stress. I have found them at the dollar store in the craft section.
That’s a great tip. Those look like they’d be amazing for this. I used to have a sculpting tool that was basically a needle on a stick but I misplaced it. I miss that tool.
Dental picks as well.
I have had pretty good success with Polymaker's breakaway support filament for PLA. Not the cheapest stuff out there, but Bambu Lab has a filament profile for it and it automatically adjusts some settings when you set the breakaway filament as the interface material. So far it has made removing supports a much easier and cleaner process for me, but I only use it on more complex prints since doing multi-color prints is quite wasteful with the nozzle purging and priming.
They also make water dissolving support filament, which is pretty cool. But I have read that it's almost impossible to avoid it getting mixed in to the PLA when printing, which can lead to durability issues with your part. It's also like $60 per spool.
Super useful video! I’ve been interested in trying out PETG interface layers but didn’t want the hassle of figuring out the settings myself 😁👍
I have to give recognition to the print profile I learned these settings from, Jens93 made a great print profile for that motor model.
God luck with your PETG interface prints, I don't use it very often but it's a good technique to have in the back pocket.
Very impressive work and presentation.
Another major thing you can do is print supports 45 degrees rotated from your normal part, it causes the layers to bind less strongly and much easier to remove.
It brokers when using PETG interface because you didn’t purge enough. So your top layers are printed with a mix of PETG/PLA which reduces the layer adhesion.
Correct, see the pinned comment.
I really REALLY hope Bambu comes out with a dual hotend machine
"Competitively priced."
Hopefully, Stratasys will not follow with a lawsuit...
One of the best video out there.i must go to buy petg...Thank you very much.Your video was perfect.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the comment.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment.
How does proper support material for PLA & PETG compare to using PETG on a PLA part? But I did learn a good few things to remember next time I use supports!
Things like the sphere you can paint in the supports on maybe 3 areas just where the overhand is worse. Same for the flat support, the bridging capabilities of the bambu are great. Just need to stop slight sagging. So I would only use pergola for the interface part and minimise the supports used in total. Quicker and cheaper
I recommend a minimum of 400 for the flush volume when switching forth and back from PLA/PETG.
At least, I personally use 600% when switching materials.
I thought naively that bambu studio would take into account the switch of materials. I guess they only think about color? Anyways I'll know for next time.
very good video thank you a lot. do you think that for small parts like mini figurines or space ship using PETG is worth it? i have issue to remove supports and that ruine my prints. thanks
The addition of the PETG is requiring a filament change and creating a cold break when the PLA resumes, in turn creating a fault line that breaks easily in the PLA part.
This parts falling appart is due to nozzle contamination.
I thought bambu studio would take care of the transitions between materials on the flushing volume but I guess not. I'll know to increase the volumes next time. It's been suggested to use between 400-600. Do you have a number that works for you?
@@3DPrintStuff For me, 550 flush volume works well when going between materials for support interface. I'd also suggest to always place the prime tower towards the back of the build plate (near the poop chute). I have some issue with the print head flinging those poos across the bed, once had a 17 hour print fail because of that😫 . With the prime tower at the back, most poos get lost around the prime tower and don't travel around.
I don't buy this. I have done full plate objects with small areas needing support and used PETG for the interface.
An entire layer of PETG ran across the entire object and it split in two. Full flushing enabled and no layer of PETG shown in the slice.
I never use PETG/PLA combination now.
The settings do use normally (unless unusual circumstances) just fall off wita clean interface.hIaefdg
Nice! I’m inspired to try some tree supports with PETG interface.
Orca slicer - organic tree support - win
Also if you fine-tune the settings correctly you can make it so it just pops right off and uses the absolutely least amount of filament needed. Give it a shot
Organic trees can be just as bad. I recently did a test trying to compare FDM to Resin on a bust, and printed with a 0.2mm nozzle at super fine layer height. The organic supports were so dense I threw the whole model away. It was literally impossible to get them all off.
@JohnVanderbeck I honestly believe it depends on how much geometry is in the model. Because the more trees there are the more mistakes can happen but that's also why I set rafts. It's just a lot of fine tuning but when you get it perfect then you don't really have to worry about much
great! have you tried the same but using the bambu PVA for the support interface?
I haven’t used PVA on the Bambu printers. But I used it on the ultimate S5 at work and it’s a bit of a pain to print with and removing it I found wasn’t as simple as just leaving it in water, it would turn into a sludgy mess. Just my experience tho.
@@3DPrintStuff thanks. just wondering since the new bambu PVA has a totally different temperature range than other PVA's
What would work as an interface material for abs?
Hello,
I have watched almost all of your videos and learned a lot of valuable information for which I thank you. However, I bought a Bambulab P1S a month ago and have been printing for a month. Some prints come out well, but some are terrible. I get information from many sources, but the information I get doesn't seem to work. I don't understand why I can't do this.
Could you please prepare a guide video on what people should do step-by-step to get a good print after buying a P1S?
You don’t really need to setup anything, it should, in theory, deliver amazing results just out of the box. When you are talking about having terrible prints, you should really try to identify the exact issue. If you can’t describe the problem with words, join some groups and communities and post your failed prints photo, many would be happy to help.
Hey sorry to hear that you're struggling with your P1S. Hard to troubleshoot with such little information. Maybe try posting your issues to www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/
people can be pretty rude over there but there are sill people who will help you out.
Otherwise there's the bambu labs specific subreddit: www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/
Make sure you make a detailed post with the settings you're using, pictures of the sliced model and the result. Give as much information as you can so that people have the best chance of helping you.
My theory would be that the PETG off-gassing when at high temp for melting lingered around while the PLA was being melted and distributed and prevented binding.
I'd love to see a comparison between the use of PLA / PETG in the same print VS PLA / Bambu Lab brand Support Material
how did you get the piece to float like that
Great videos! Keep em coming!
My x1c printer came with "support for PLA" it seems to work well for this purpose. Is more expensive. Do you know what it is? How do i choose between that and PETG for support interface?
Thanks!
I haven't played with the PLA support material but I would assume you don't need to purge as much between that and PLA vs using PETG. You should do a couple test prints of the same part and compare them yourself.
Very cool video, quite enjoyed it. I wonder if there would be a way to iron the zero clearance support interface with PETG to get an even cleaner surface, but the final print you showed look a lot better than the initial cube imo.
Glad you liked it. Ironing the support interface would be pretty cool and should produce a super smooth part. Maybe they'll add that feature in the future.
First question how do you get your parts to float over the bed? Mine always snap to the bed
Yeah it’s a bit of a hack since Bambu studio won’t let you do it natively. You need to have a second part and turn them into an assembly in Bambu studio. Then you can make one of the two parts float. That’s why I have those little squares on the build plate beside the floating part. I wanted to include this in the video but I felt like it was kinda off topic and the video is already long enough.
That’s awesome, I’ll have to try that now lol I did not know you could do that.
@@SpwnDragn Yeah in Cura you could just toggle off "snap to build plate" or something along those lines and just put your part wherever you want... Hopefully bambu studio adds this at some point.
Yeah I miss a lot of features from cura lol
Can you do the opposite and use PLA as support for PETG?
Yup
@@3DPrintStuff Thanks! Great video, really informative. Liked and subscribed.
Very helpful thanks
I think that there are very few situations where you would need to print flat surfaces with supports, rather than perpendicular to he build plate or directly on it. However, the print orientation I think it solves most of the stringy surfaces left after the removal of the supports. Your big piece could have been printed on one side, perpendicular to the build plate, or at a 45 degree angle to avoid support on the concave area, or minimize them, maybe use tree. This comes with experience and trial and error.
Many ways to achieve the same result and I do think there are situations where supports under flat surfaces are unavoidable so I’m just giving people options to have in their toolkit. I have also had good results with mostly flat parts printed at a 45 so maybe that can be an upcoming video.
making the base pattern rectilinear grid also helps
Thank you! Really appreciate this video.
You're welcome, glad it was helpful.
If you need a more perfect sphere, print the sphere on the point of a small pyramid with minimal support.
Should probably have the title say choosing an interface material or something not fix stuck supports(makes it sound like it's just dialing in the settings)
Yeah, I was expecting some setting changes and not just using a dissimilar support material. I won't do that as it wastes too much filament for the things I print. Personally I increase the the Z support distance from .2 to .25 or even .27 to get the supports to come off easily.
What brand PETG did you use?
I'm using filaments.ca PETG in this video
HI WHERE I CAN DOWNLOAD ??
In the description "Print profile used in this video:"
@@3DPrintStuff its gone
I was not aware u could use petg as support for pla, i suppose i could use pla as interface support for petg?? Great video
Yup, your assumption is right. It works both ways
And probably this will work for PLA supporting PETG right?
Yeah it works both ways which is pretty cool
Anyone have any suggestions on petg with pla interface, and vice versa?
Nice! I suspect the petg didn't stick to the prime tower from the looks of it
Yeah the PETG looks pretty bare on the prime tower. It's been suggested to increase the flushing volume to between 400-600 which may be the answer.
I think the tops were coming off because the interstitial layer material change took so long that the base cooled off too much in between.
Purge volumes seem to be the culprit. I've linked to some further testing in the pinned comment.
I print my pla at 230c if i dont use a interface layer on supports they are impossible to remove.
Try printing it cooler.
The default in Bambu Studio is 220 for PLA. Is there a specific reason you are printing at 230?
@3DPrintStuff yes I've noticed the layer adhesion over all for the print is much stronger at 230c on my x1c
With PLA and PETG there is still nozzle cleaning in the object. This has to be protected, not cleaned in the object and the PLA will stick together
Follow up short videos testing flushing volumes in the pinned comment.
where is the link ?? regards
??
I don't recommend petg / pla as support as the two materials are not compatible. Although it will work the result is poor layer adhesion from cross contamination and excessive waste from larger purging to remove contamination and even then once you print on top of the non compatible material your re-melting the other material slightly dragging around contamination. Print a Thin (T) shape and add support under the (T). Guaranteed its going to break at support interface layer. Petg/Pla as support really only works well on large flat overhang faces attached to a thick wall or body.
HEY! AT 8:56 I SEE A STRING PIECE STILL INSIDE THERE! LOL
Yup there is one strand left in the top edge. Good eyes.
The weakness from using PETG as support was because you didn’t purge the nozzle enough of the PETG so it weakened the PLA around it. Double the purge.
I bet turning on adaptive layers on the sphere would of resulted in an even cleaner bottom surface
It definitely would have.
I’m new to all this but I think it’s because the tops came off because the sides cooled before the tops were being printed and they didn’t fuse together
Now do the same video but for TPU & TPU supports
For the interface layer - the heads shouldn’t make the first layer of the purge towers - like when printing one Model after the other
Those parts fall off, cause there was not enough PETG purged out between the changes and probably some resedue of PETG is still between PLA which causes weakness. Solution might be to increase purge volume and/or make bit bigger purge tower.
That is correct, see the pinned comment.
Great video! As someone named Jens I had a good laugh at your pronunciation of Jens93. Very common name in Denmark and Sweden.
It's Jens, not Jen-S :)
Yes, I'm sorry haha. Another commenter from Germany also pointed this out. My English speaking brain did not interpret that correctly. I'll have to keep my eye out for Danish/Swedish/German names. Glad you got a laugh out of it.
I think the issue is the nozzle will end up getting pet on the surface and contaminate the next layer of pla.
I came here to see the PLA Support Filament.
Sorry you didn't get what you were looking for. You can still play with the "top z distance" and "interface spacing" on PLA supports.
Bambu makes a support for PLA filament that's much better than PETG for this
I only use PLA. Why are bambu supports so much harder to remove than prusa supports? same model, same material….I just don’t gee why bambu have over complicated it as i thought they generally used similar splicer software?
I changed my top z distant to .26 and I use tree support normally and has helped alot when removing support
Use line type next time then you can see clearly the supports difference from the part
Kind of misleading. Your PETG interface failures are due to not setting your filament purges/flush volume correctly. I purge 800 going from support to primary material. It takes a large poop to clean out the nozzle.
Sorry, not intentionally misleading. I thought Bambu studio would take into consideration the transition between materials and set the flush volume to an appropriate amount… I was wrong. Didn’t really think about it until after posting this. Should have done a reprint with higher flush volumes.
I just use a heat gun and works like a charm.
how to set size of base of tree ? thinks
best support is no support... i redesign a ton to make sure of this..
💪 🙏
Interesting. Not *helpful* to me, since I don't have an AMS and feel like multi-material in a single nozzle is a gimmick, not a useful ability - but the results are very interesting!
Although: I suspect it's not "gen-ess," but "yenz." As in the fairly common German and Scandinavian name, Jens.
Yeah definitely not something I use often but it has its use case.
Thats good to know! My English brain just saw Jen S.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned this but showing white items and having them blow out exposure wise isn’t helpful for details.
Thank you for the feedback