Periodic Maintenance Recommendations X1C, P1S, P1P and AMS
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- 🟢 Bambu Labs 2nd Anniversary Sale
X1-CARBON w/AMS $1,299: tinyurl.com/Bambu-X1C
P1S $599: tinyurl.com/Bambu-P1S
A1 $339: tinyurl.com/BambuLabs-A1
A1 mini $199: tinyurl.com/BambuLab-A1mini
💦 LUBE AND GREASE
Super Lube 52004(Anti-Rust and Bearing Lubrication): amzn.to/453YC4n
Grease for Z-Axis Lead Screws: amzn.to/43M5WAz
Nitrile Gloves: amzn.to/3YphRmE
Microfiber Cloths: amzn.to/3QjJHiy
🍃 BLOWING
Electric Air Duster to Blow Out Fans: amzn.to/3DBcfME
Compressed Air: amzn.to/45gztUk
🚮 CONSUMABLES
Bambu Lab Carbon Filter: shrsl.com/4b1uw
Reusable Carbon Filter STL file: www.printables.com/model/4066...
Activated Carbon Pellets: amzn.to/3qr3EZX
Filament Cutter: shrsl.com/4b1v0
Nozzle Wiper: shrsl.com/4b1v2
🔩 AMS PARTS
Complete AMS: shrsl.com/4b1v5
Desiccant for AMS compartments: amzn.to/3qokR6f
Desiccant from video for front of AMS: amzn.to/3YbVMYX
Tube Cutter: amzn.to/47vvULU
📷 CAMERA GEAR
tinyurl.com/MyCameraGear3D
🛠️ TOOLS I LIKE
tinyurl.com/toolsilike
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🟢BAMBU LAB 3D PRINTERS
X1-CARBON: tinyurl.com/Bambu-X1C
P1S: tinyurl.com/Bambu-P1S
P1P: tinyurl.com/Bambu-P1P
This video is filmed on the X1-Carbon but there is full overlap with the remaining lineup of Bambu Lab printers (P1S & P1P) maintenance recommendations.
Bambu Lab Basic Maintenance Wiki X1C: wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maint...
Bambu Lab Basic Maintenance Wiki P1P & P1S: wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/maint...
About Bambu Lab: "Bambu Lab is a consumer tech company focusing on desktop 3D printers. Starting with the X1 series, Bambu Lab builds state-of-the-art 3D printers that break the barriers between the digital and physical worlds, bringing creativity to a whole new level. "
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📚 Chapters:
00:00 Intro
00:07 AMS Removal
01:07 Blowing
01:54 IPA Cleaning
02:55 Lube and Grease
05:15 Replacing Parts
07:34 AMS Parts
10:23 Outro
Affiliate Disclaimer:
Some of the above links are affiliate links, purchases made through the links help support the channel at no extra cost to you. 
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Good video!! BUT you should never, really never blow out fans that are connected with compressed air so that they rotate!! They work like a dynamo and thus give voltage to the board and can cause short circuits...
Good to know. Pinned your comment so others know not to do that.
You can blow but you should hold the center so it doesn´t rotate @@3DPrintStuff
That but you also will get to high RPM and can damage the fan. I believe
So while you can convert one, In their current state none of the fans here would produce any power if spun all the fans are brushless dc motors, and brushless dc motors are not really dc they need a speed controller that’s built in to the fan it self. This IC has multiple diodes and reverse current protection. Moving the print head manually will give far more power because stepper motors can be used as generators as they are, in fact just moving the print head 75mm are so will cause the logo light to turn on even if unplugged.
Yeah not sure if you understand what a short circuit is
Great video and thanks for sharing.
One recommendation though. If using compressed air, use your finger to hold the fan stationary while blowing it out. It is entirely possible to damage the fan bearings by spinning it too fast.
Very comprehensive, thank you! I just followed your steps and got my 6 month old P1S good as new!
Best maintenance video by far! Great work.
That's high praise, thank you.
Agree. Best one out there. Explained well.
Thanks for making this.
You're welcome, glad you liked it.
Excellent maintenance video. Thanks
one video for all the maintainence, nice
I've been maintaining linear rails on printers for44 years. Cleaning those rails is always a good idea. The dirt you may never see will resist motion. 44 years ago the motors were weak, so print quality quickly showed big impact. A 3d printer is different than a dot matrix printer, but those linear bearings and chrome plated rails have not changed much. And when maintaining my 3d printers, I can confirm they need it more than the dot matrix printers. quality prints require good maintenance. Good video!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video!! Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment.
Wow, what an awesome video and thanks for sharing!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the comment
Useful video. Thanks for sharing.
In my experience printing PLA, you can go way, WAY more than 3 to 4 spools between changing the cutter blade. Probably heavily dependent on how you’re using AMS/switches per layer, but I’ve probably gone closer 100 rolls. FWIW.
Yeah rolls of filament is a funny metric for that one. They also say # of cuts which is a better metric, I think its 3-5000 if I remember correctly.
If you just use rolls of filament it could be 1 cut or 1000 cuts per roll depending on the number of color changes. Thanks for your input. 100 rolls is a lot, are you printing parts for small scale manufacturing?
It was a good video. Thank you.
Outstanding video. Great work and I for one certainly do appreciate the information. And thank you for the links.
You're welcome, glad it was helpful.
SAVING THIS!!! Thanks 🙏🏼
No problem!!
very detailed, thank you. I’d recommend to also clean all the lead screws before re-greasing them, so you’re not putting new grease on top of old grease. A bit like changing the oil in your car rather than just keep topping it up.
Yeah that's a good suggestion. Should have included that in the video.
Super helpful video. My 3-month-old lightly used X1 Carbon printer nozzle seems to be holding onto the filament after going through pre-checks. I print mostly PETG. Going to give it a good cleaning and then look into replacing any required parts to fix the issue.
Check if your filament needs to be dried, this is most likely happening when your filament is humid and there is excess filament coming out.
You can just use the drying program over night in the UI of the printer itself and put a small box over the filament (with maybe some holes) for best performance.
Also verify that the ptfe tubing from the AMS (if you have one) and the one connected to the print head do not have sharp bends, and are not worn out inside.
Very useful and helpful video. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the comment
one tip : don t let the fan spin when you are cleaning it.
A pretty solid video, would have been nice when i did my maintenance.
ive had my p1s for about 3 weeks an this was something i was worried about but im not going to lie. i got 12 other machines that range from kingroons kp3 to sahppire plus or qq-s pro so alot of different types an brands of printers an maintenance is something i didnt really do for any of those brands or what little i did was not near as often as bambu lab recommends for there machines ,but im going to do it cause i paid more for this machine an im really enjoying it but all my other printers are still running strong. the p1s is on a different level compared to my older stuff but they are still capable machines but i wouldnt mind selling a couple of them off to get newer printers if not all bambu lab machines, really would like to replace a couple of my bed slingers for one of there a1 to see how well they do compared the p1s, but what really makes the bambu machines so much better is the ams an software.
Very useful thanks !
Glad it was helpful!
I noticed some things to do once a month and every week. OK, I can start doing that now in month 6, 😮
Awesome thanks!
No problem! Thanks for the comment.
I found on the Bambu lab wiki they mentioned some brand of grease or Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE as an alternative for leed screws.
I printed resealable trays for ams desiccant and used some Dry & Dry orange beads, plus using original desiccant till it used up. But My Ams is only at 10% humidity, I have seen that Slice Engineering makes desiccant for rolls that’s not silica and really powerful at drying Ams.
Yes they added a recommendation for the type of grease after I had made this video.
From the bambu wiki "You can use the BX-300/F series grease in the link, but other lubrication alternatives can be used. A popular lubricant is Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE or Lucas Oil 10533 White Lithium Grease which should work similarly." wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/basic-maintenance
Reusable trays for the AMS desiccant are a good idea.
You should never let fans spin when blowing them out with compressed air, always a good practice to hold them as your blowing, some fans can send an electrical charge back down the wires
Noted, I've pinned a comment at the top of this comments section saying the same thing.
Thanks!
You're welcome, thanks for the super thanks!
Get a dryer sheet from cleaning your clothes, use that on the top glass then switch to a microfiber cloth and buff it, less dust buildup and you can use one 5 or 6 times before needing a new one, also works on baseboards
Interesting tip, didn’t know you could use dryer sheets on glass. I’ll have to give it a try.
Nice tip! Do you mean use a new dryer sheet or used?
@@naktaalbetter to use a used one because it will have less wax on it
6:57 OMG THANK YOU!!!! I kept getting an intermittent error only at the end of prints saying it couldn't pull the filament back into the AMS from the print head and that there might be a clog, almost every time hitting retry would fix it, turns out it was the blade!? swapped it and haven't gotten the error since. thanks!
You’re welcome, I’m glad this video helped you sort out your issue!
You did an excellent job with the video. Thank you! Very clear shots of pertinent areas.
Thank you :)
Thanks
No problem
Do you have any recommendations for the rollers in the AMS? Mine are so squeaky but I keep getting different answers. Some say only silicone lubricants others say it doesn’t matter.
Vacuum before you grease, otherwise the grease captures the tiny filaments you can't see (let alone some big ones). Also, a good alternative is WD40 Dry PTFE, works well on mine, seems to not hold onto anything.
Extremely helpful thanks bro...
I gotta say your voice sounds the same as the guy from the "Casually Explained: Is She Into You?" video lmao.
Lmao, that’s actually really funny. If only this channel were as successful as Casually Explained.
This is 90% for any printer :D
From a non Bambu owner… some of these timeframes seem pretty quick. I mean some people go through 30 spools in one month or maybe more. How many Bambi users actually change parts or clean as often as is recommended?
What anti rust coating are you using in this video? 3:11
Very helpful video! What is your C1 standing on? Some find of dumping foam?
20in x 20in x 2in concrete paver and a 16in x 16in x 1in rubber paver underneath.
never blow fans with compressed air , 1st they produce voltage and 2nd that ruins their bearings
I avoid feathers in the fans by not placing the printer in a chicken coop.
Thanks for the video.
@3D Print Stuff. tip bambu lab recommended not using wooden spools
That is correct
Thank you for your video. GREAT. You say to apply an anti-rust every 6 months, what kind of anti-rust should be applied?
Super Lube 52004: amzn.to/453YC4n, any generic sewing machine oil will do but superlube has a good reputation.
Thank you! I have already bought all the products you recommended but I didn't think Super Lube was an anti-rust product.
@@user-nr3bt6nc1g Oh nice, yeah you're basically just preventing the metal from being exposed to air/moisture by having a thin layer of oil on the rods.
I wasn't sure if they market it as anti-rust but I went and checked its on their technical sheet "Prevents rust and corrosion" www.super-lube.com/Content/Images/uploaded/documents/TDS/Technical_Data_Sheet_Multi_Use_Synthetic_Lightweight_Oil.pdf
Nice vid many thanks, do you have alternatives with the super lube 52004?? In Eu it costs me the double of the price …50€ with shipping thanks again
I've read some people are using any generic sewing machine oil.
Quick question. Some of the lube that i cleaned off around the base of the "lube screw" got into the smaller screws, I cleaned them the best I could, but i know its not 100% cleaned out. I cant get into the little spaces of the small screws. Any ideas if this would cause an issue
I think you mean the "lead screws" but I can understand how you could hear "lube screw". If some lubricant got into the mounting screws around the lead screw base that should be completely fine. I don't see that causing any issues.
I worry because sometimes compressed air cans seem to shoot out liquid. Isn't that bad?
Are you holding it upside down? You should hold these cans upright while using them. Compressed air cans are a liquid in the can that rapidly expands into gas as it leaves the can. You shouldn't have to worry about it.
for the z-axis screw rods is it possible to use WD-40?
Wouldn’t recommend it. WD-40 isn’t a grease and so doesn’t stay where it’s placed as well as the other options. Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE or Lucas Oil 10533 White Lithium Grease are the recommended greases.
Nice. I have the tools, so I sharpened my cutter - it was not cutting TPU fully, but now my MK3S+ is the dedicated TPU machine. What about belt tension adjusting? I'm aware that it is 'resetable', but I dont't know when...must research.
If you perform a "Device self test" the printer will tell you if the tensioners need adjusting. Bambu Lab have a good video on how to do this: ruclips.net/video/Ibjj0RKWHoE/видео.html
@@3DPrintStuff sweet, thanks. That's what I get for not reading the owners manual
Which filament brand you recommend for pla and petg printing? I am also in Canada and the prices varies quite a bit. Will be getting the p1s so ur input would be great 😊
I've really liked the stuff I get from filaments.ca . I have no affiliation with them but like their filaments. Bambu Labs filaments have also been great but a little pricey, it's been said that it's just rebranded sunlu pla+ so that's another option.
As a new X1 Carbon owner, I have found some much great info in your channel, Thanks. Questions: Where did you got that concrete tile? (I'm assuming is concrete) I think Stefan from CNC Kitchen mention something about that and what's the little black/green tent and how you implement into your workflow. Any info related to fumes, since I have my X1 Carbon in my on bedroom studio. Thanks in advance for any info.
Concrete tile is from Rona which is a home improvement/hardware store up here in Canada.
Black and green tent is intended to be a grow tent but I use it in the winter to heat the area around my printers. My printers live in a unheated garage when they're not in my home office. It gets to -30celcius sometimes so I have a little space heater to heat up the inside of the tent and I can print year round. If your printer is in your bedroom I would only print PLA.
I haven't print yet with the PETG filament I purchase neither the TPU. I have to see and I might need to buy an inline fan to vent out and circulate air. I live in Florida, USA. Thanks again, much appreciated. @@3DPrintStuff
What kind of anti-rust should be used on the rods?
Super Lube 52004: amzn.to/453YC4n, any generic sewing machine oil will do but superlube has a good reputation.
I want to go from an ender 3v2 to this bc of the advertised lack of maintenance, is this true? Im sick of leveling my bed, cleaning it, swapping nozzles, put sticky notes under my bed, worry about the frame etc etc. Is it easier on this printer? My ender 3v2 has been out of tune for years because I can never get it right, would this printer fix that?
Edit: I do have a CR touch, however it rarely helps due to the warping in my bed
There's still the maintenance items you see in this video that Bambu Labs recommends. But it's definitely an easier printing experience with this printer compared to an ender 3 v2. The ender3 v2 is what I had before the X1C and I don't use the ender at all anymore. Bed levelling is entirely handled by the printer. Swapping nozzles is a bit of a chore cause you have to change out the entire hot end but I have a video showing that if you want to know what that looks like. ruclips.net/video/-f8XW8zZSRo/видео.html
I have no affiliation with Bambu Lab and would definitely recommend the X1C if you're looking for mostly hassle free printing.
Where did you get the paver you are using? It looks 18x18 or 20x20. All I can find at Home Depot and Lowes is 16x16 which barely fits the printer, or 24x24 which is way too big.
www.rona.ca/en/product/oldcastle-plaza-slab-concrete-dorset-grey-20-in-x-20-in-10503148-66635208
Feathers in the fan...? :-) Thanks for the maintenance tips. Good job.
Yeah I have no idea where that came from and was very surprised to even see that come out of the fan during editing. Thanks for the comment. Glad you liked it.
Those damn chickens printing at night!
Did you have a recommendation for the needle-nosed bottle you're using for the oil? Have a specific one you like?
I used these ones from amazon: amzn.to/3OKrk4r
@@3DPrintStuffAwesome! Thanks!
Thanks this is helpful. Where did you get the needle-nosed bottle?
Glad it was helpful. Got them from amazon: amzn.to/3OKrk4r
Thanks @@3DPrintStuff
Can I use the Prusa’s lubricant to lubricare the parts of the printer (exept the xy motors)? Because I have stealed a lot of this lubricant from my school😂😂
It may spontaneously combust... /s
I'm not sure what Prusa's suggests their lubricant be used for but if it's meant for the lead screws then I'd say go for it.
Main gripe with this video is you should always try and clean all the old dirty grease off the lead screws before piling more grease on top.
Yeah definitely an oversight on my part.
@@3DPrintStuff good excuse for a v2 😄
Is Super Lube 52004 Synthetic with PTFE ok for bearings and Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), for Z -Axis lead screws ? Having some difficult finding things on stock.
with PTFE will be fine and 21030 is an acceptable alternative for the Z-Axis
@@3DPrintStuff thank you! Will order these.
Very Helpful Video Thanks! I can't find a save video button, and I am signed into UTube.
If you like the video (thumbs up) it will be saved to your liked videos. You can also click the 3 dots on the bottom right and click Save.
Any reason why you went with "Super Lube 52004" which does not have PTFE vs "Super Lube 51004" that has PTFE? As I understand it, PTFE helps with lubrication. I am still new to this.
Also, any reason for not going with "Super Lube-21030" with PTFE for the grease?
@@brandonkish3100 For your first question. We're using this mainly as an anti rust coating. So the added PTFE isn't really necessary but won't hurt if that 's what you want to go with.
Second question. That 21030 is a good option. I went with the lucas oil white lithium grease because it's a very affordable option.
@@3DPrintStuff And what would you recommend from from the WD40 Specialist series? The Sylicon, PTFE or other?
The super Lube you showed is not available on my region. What should I search for to get something smiliar? Great video!
You can search for sewing machine oil.
Tip from an old fart
hold the fanblade stationary when cleaning with pressure, the fan SHOULD have a diode in it to prevent failure. But its best to be on the safe side to avoid downtime on your hardware imo.
also you will benefit from adding a swivel guide for the feeder ptfe going into the head for less friction, do choose one that stops the tube from rubbing on the glass :)
@reyalPRON thanks for the old fart info.
I really should have known better. But I'd be surprised if they don't have some sort of reverse voltage protection or freewheeling diode build into their fan control circuit.
That's a good tip, it feels like a design flaw that the PTFE tube drags around on the top glass wherever it goes.
be careful spinning the fan with your compressed air since a DC motor turns into a generator if you spin it... If you spin it higher than it's rated fan speed, it will generate higher voltage than the control circuitry can handle. So, STOP the fins when you blow it off...
You're not the first and you won't be the last person to mention this. I appreciate the concern and have made the mental note for next time.
Do not use IPA on the carbon fiber rods as you will inevitably get alcohol on the rubber belts. Alcohol breaks down rubber at a chemical level, this is why cheap gasoline breaks your car down. I don't see anyone else in the comment section warning about this
Then what should you use?
😂 me stressing that i havent done maintenance in the first 150 hours… good thing not many fall into that
FYI BambuLab does not recommend using cardboard spools with AMS, because of paper dust. You can print plastic rings around the spools to address this problem.
Solution for features use. Cleaning from dust, alcohol, ptfe lube from wd40 or any similar. Stop translating outdated maintenance solution that result in more mess once collected dust.
My thought after 2 min of watching: „I just do nothing“
Do you know how quick 5-10 rolls go by? Hahaha
Why couldnt they just do everything in hours (Every 50 hours lube the rods ETC.)
Cardboard spools tho
I'd be hesitant to use anything other than glass cleaner to clean sensor and camera lense. Alcohol or similar could possibly fog it up.
Hadn't thought of that, IPA is the recommended cleaner from Bambu. We'll see how it does over time.
@@3DPrintStuff they might be both glass then but for my experience especially sensors are a type of plastic that can be easily eaten by chemicals or permanently fogged up
so what your are saying is that I suck
?
If I have to do all this I will return my bambu x1c 😂
Never... but never.. let the fans spins while blowing/cleaning them... if they circuits don't have a anti charge protection you can fry something...
My camera is no longer working after wiping it with alcohol
You should open a support ticket with Bambu Lab because that is their recommended cleaning method: wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/basic-maintenance
DO NOT spray compressed air into fans without holding the fans to prevent them from spinning from the compressed air. Letting the fans spin from the compressed air will destroy the bearings due to the fans spinning too fast.
Yessir
BTW this is a known fact,but it is less known that even you try blow as fast as possible in most cases it does not make enough voltage to harm those electronics behind the fan.
Yes there are cheapo fans that can make voltage,due to the missing fan controller,but in this case I would doubt that they did not used one.
Wearing gloves to grease a thread... Righto
Do not blow your fans and make them spin like this guy. Hold the fan and then blow it out.
Am I the only one cringed out when he not only unplugged the AMS while powered on, but also blew out the fans letting them spin up as if they didn't generate any electricity?... Bambu Labs recommended this video also smh
Yeah pretty cringe
@@3DPrintStuffNext video showcase what happens when you spin up fans
Somewhat incomplete instructions on how to maintain the life of your X1C.
Care to elaborate? All of these recommendations are coming directly from the Bambu Lab Wiki.
1. As others have said, you never blow out fans without holding them in place.
2. You didn't slide the tool head over to clean the Z-rods completely.
3. Not cleaning the linear rods before oiling them will only move the existing dirt around, you need to clean off the dirty oil before applying a new coat.
4. You only showed cleaning one of the rods, not all four. For newbies who might repeat your steps exactly, they might not realize they need to clean all the rods, Y and Z axis.
5. You didn't clean the three lead screws before regreasing them. This is a must, regardless if printing with ABS/ASA or not. This is probably the most crucial routine maintenance step and requires thorough cleaning of the entire rods. Which means moving the tool head up and down so the entire rods are accessible.
6. You didn't show how to clean the hotend sock. Most of the time, if no tears are present, simply cleaning it with alcohol will do the job. You only need to replace it if there is visible damage or replacing the entire hotend.
7. You left your build plate in the printer while you were cleaning. This is not recommended since you are dealing with grease, oil and flying debris.
8. You didn't mention examining the AMS First Stage feeder for dirt and filament debris and then blowing them out.
9. You didn't mention generally blowing out the entire AMS of any debris, especially if using cardboard spools.
10. And though this might be a bit on the compulsive side, it is a good idea to clean the entire inside with a microfiber cloth with a small amount of alcohol, especially if printing with abrasive filaments. However, even printing with PLA and PETG will cause a slight buildup inside the printer.
@@highrise9559 Appreciate the feedback.
@@highrise9559I cannot wait to see your maintenance video for Bambu Lab printers. 😊
@hologos_ yup i was thinking the same thing. Lol. Sounds like a lot of very good advice. Would be awesome to update the video with this new info
Almost everything 5 a 10 rolls check this shit? 😂😂😂 dahm 2 days for me 😂😂😂 junk
Holy shit, fix your vid. You should not disconnect the AMS before turning off the machine. Please fix it, it can fry boards.
I've disconnected and reconnected loads of times to removed blocked filament mid print. So far, so good :)
Seems that you never heard of 1:24 when blowing into a fan, that a voltage is produced through the permanent magnets what can damage the electronics. Your a great tutor ... NOT!
Maintenance on a machine, No way