For cardboard spools, I bought a bottle of clear nail polish and just brush a little on the spool edges. It dries quickly and seals the edges perfectly so they don’t shed fibers.
What? RFID rotation? 'cmon, circumference is different on every spin. It should be smarter than that, and measure length by stepper motor rotations. Just like old school Ender 3 does.
@@enosunim nope works very fine since rfid tag is at the same place and it looks at how much filament got extruded by turn and since that changes with diminishing circumference
It's a little simpler than that, since if you're counting RFID rotations you also have to consider different filament length as you work your way to the end of the roll. BL knows not only how heavy the filament is, but how long it is in meters (it's in fact right on the box). The extruder runs however many meters of filament through and subtracts it from the total that's left (which itself is tracked on the spool's RFID serial number). This is how you can take out a BL spool for another, put it back on later and still have the fuel gauge show up where it left off.
I've got about 1000hrs on my P1S in about 9 months (I use it a lot, lot of long prints etc), and I've been printing and building printers since late 2011 and I can say a few things on it having had a few issues in that time (some self inflicted and some due to design issues with it). In terms of clogged AMS, I've never had to go to a teardown of it but I have heard people find it easy enough to do (I do a bit of a dance of removing any other rolls, ejecting the PTFE from the printer and then finding where it's bound up and getting it to feed backwards). In terms of cardboard spools - they don't leave any residue behind tbh, I just had a look in my AMS after going through maybe 16 rolls of filament in a row of cardboard and there's nothing in there dirt or dust wise. They are in printed rings though - some slip when trying without them. the cardboard is the same stock as the centres of the polymaker rolls that bambulabs use. If you're fine with the abrasion they take from filament there's no real issues with the whole cardboard ones imho. They also don't bounce when they're nearly empty either, at least no more than a plastic one or a Bambu one. Lots of manufacturers do refills in the same way (BambuLabs weren't innovative in any way here), even on cardboard spools or self printed spools! The measurement thing is on the Wiki - "The RFID reading process can also be used to estimate the remaining filament. The working principle is to estimate the percentage of the remaining filament on the spool by the length of the filament sent out after the RFID tag on the spool rotates a full circle. The complete 1kg filament roll is 100% capacity by default." If there's a takeaway here - don't be afraid of cardboard spools, sure there's no fuel gauge, and you might need some rings, but they are recyclable. Also, print the silica gel inserts for the AMS, take them out and microwave them (take the gel out and put into a microwave safe container and be careful they get VERY hot) when it starts showing moisture on the BambuStudio/OrcaSlicer/hygrometer or prints go weird. They really work well. Oh and give the carbon rods a wipe from time to time, it's good to remove the dust.
I’ve noticed the same thing. People saying they have failure to feed and retracts and all this. I tried the rings didn’t like it. Ended up getting a ton of empty bambu spools from someone. Just paid shipping. I’ve done several 2-5 day multicolor prints with zero user interface. Recently a 5 day 3,000 filament change model with zero problems. If you use the right spools these things just work!
I bought a brand new X1C and it arrived today. Came with the gold plate. The unit works awesome. I've been printing dust covers and AMS feeder savers lol. Thanks for the video, very helpful!
There is a difference between the textured plate and the smooth plates. For the textured plate the Z-Offset is set to 0.04mm lower in the startup G-Code, pressumably to better smoosh the filament into the valleys of the texture.
From my understanding it finds the tag in a certain spot, then shoots filament down to the ams hub sensor, it knows what that length is and counts the revolutions of the tag to work out roughly how much is left
Dude how do you print petg so clear? I've tried everything. Different filament brands, nozzle sizes, bunch of settings and nothing close to what you can do. Do you release your print profile? Patreons maybe? As a '90 kids I just want that clear purple n64 look so bad.
3:30 - you earned my subscription when you said this. I've had my X1-Carbon about a year as well and I have not done much more than grease the lead screws once and vacuum out the build chamber. So just by letting me know that I'm not the only one who's neglected their poor li'l X1-C, I hit that subscribe button. I do have quite a lot more hours on my printer than you do, though. It's my only printer so I've got over 3K hours on it. Probably time to get in there and tighten a few things and replace some wipes or something. I did, however, mod the hell out of my AMS by building the Python AMS upgrade. I love that thing!
Good video. I'm about a year into my X1 now and love it. I have had a few problems with the AMS. There have been a few filament breaks inside the AMS which require dissassembly. I find this to be a pain. There are two tiny screws in the back bottom of the AMS that are hard to get to, difficult to see, and difficult to reinsert. Once those are handled it's not too bad to get the filament blockage cleared out. I converted to the HYDRA package, which is helping with the spool sizes a bit, but did nothing regarding filament breakage. I acknowledge that much of the filament breakage is mitigated when the filament is properly dried out. I am now in the process of getting the PYTHON AMS mod which looks like it's much easier to work on should a filament break occur. I recently purchased the Bambu A1 with AMS and this one is much easier to work with. Because of the less complicated filament paths breakage is greatly reduced. You also mentioned using the textured plates. For me this didn't go well at all. My first attempt resulted in failure to stick and later results were mediocre at best. There is a good selection available on AMAZON with very good instructions on how to use the textured plates. I might try again. My final gripe with the AMS is that only one of my 4 slots actually reads the spools anymore. It may be due to being taken apart a few times, it's hard to tell. Since I expect to be using the PYTHON soon, it's a moot point, since the PYTHON does not allow for AMS reading. On the AMS all the RFI or what ever the spool ID process is, works just fine. One thing I especially like with the X1 is how well it prints ABS. I don't expect to obtain the same results with the open air A1 unless it's for very small items.
You just blew my mind. I was having issues with the overture petg spools keep creating AMS overloading error messages. You can just rip off the cardboard outer rings and slap that b in a bambu spool. Perfectly. No issues. Amazing.
I just got my X!C and I did get the Gold Textured Build plate. With texture on both sides. After using the Buildtak sheets and some others. I love having the build plate surface already installed for me.
5:48 By using the cool plate you reduce your typical electrical bill consumption. I don't use it, but I know that for some folks that's just an enough reason.
the plates are like 10-20 bucks on amazon, already done, no need to DIY. Just need to disable on the X1 the plate check, otherwise it will complain (you can ignore it). The gold PEI is default now on the X1C. Depends on the AMS version you have. The current, new, AMS units have a different drive system that doesn't tear up the cardboard spools. Only time I have needed to re-spool (tear the sides off and use a bambu one) is when the spool is mangled from shipping. I started with the A1 combo....1800 hours in 4 months, thing has never stopped printing LOL. I do re-lube the bed when it asks, now having to use silicone based 3-in-1 oil (same stuff I use on my Voron 2.4 350) after running out of the stuff they send you.
Thanks for telling us about the "new" AMS unit. But how do I know if I have the new one? I just ordered an X1 Carbon with AMS, so this is my first experience with Bambu. I just want to know I am getting an improved AMS. Can you tell me how to know the difference?
I have had ZERO problems with the cool plate sticker I put on a year ago. It is still useable and with zero damage and around 2000 prints on it. Just recently did I finally pull out my textured PEI and I love that as well, and neither have ever given me a single problem and this was my first printer.
Only thing I would recommend is keep up with maintenance on your carbon rods. Mine failed around 1500hrs and I cleaned them a decent amount. It wasn’t a super fun replacement but I got mine back up and going and it prints like new again.
You should look deeper into bamboo labs customer service. S😅o many people are frustrated with the hoops that they try to make you jump through in order to get any kind of service done. I would rather pay for the parts and find out on the internet what is going on than try to rely on bamboo lab service. After only a month of using my X1 with the AMS , the AMS broke. One slot refused to retract the filament. All the other slots worked fine. Because of the hassle of working with Bambu I just ordered a new AMS figuring I could get back to printing and use the original as a spare after tearing it apart. Being new to 3d printing I had no idea where to start and it broke in the middle of a print so I was afraid I would lose what I had started. One very positive thing about the X1 is a power failure while printing will not hurt your print. It will pick up right where it left off. The same is true for poop shute clog. Once fixed, it will start where it left off. It's just too bad Bambu does not have better customer service.
This has been my experience as well. I will say if it was only that one slot - easier to replace the entire feeder assembly and/or the motor. It's not too hard. But the hoops they make you go through seems almost intended just to frustrate you until you fix it yourself without them.
Wherever I watch videos on printers there always seems to be this feud between Prusa people and Bambu people. I just want amazing print quality, a reliable printer that doesn't surveil you, and good customer service.
The fuel gauge is an estimate of the outer diameter of the filament bundle. A large roll will have a larger diameter of the bundle of filament. A smaller roll vice versa. It tracks how many meters of filament per rotation (detecting the tag, not detecting, then detecting it again) and by doing some math and a lookup chart for BBL spools, it gives estimates
i don't know if the ams actually does this, but it is technically possible to estimate the amount of filament remaining (on any roll) by reading the rpm of the roll as you pull filament into the system (the less filament there is the faster the roll would spin). not an exact science, but a simple calculation, and would be a decent estimate.
850 hours?! You need to step it up my friend, I've had mine for almost a year with over 2,900 hours! 🤣🤣 And I work out at sea for over half a year, so basically I've printed 2,900 hours in less than 6 months. 😁 But it's all good, just teasing, thanks for the video. 😁
I enjoyed the video! I too was surprised at how much faster and easier to use than my retired Robo R1+. It’s a game changer. The software/firmware was great to start with and continues to get better. I have a Kickstarter X1C with AMS and have 1700 hours using the Cool Plate for PLA printing. I used Windex as the release agent from day 1. The original Cool plate is on sticker 2. I also have a second Cool Plate now which comes in handy for large prints. I pull the plate and start another print while the other cools down. Removing large prints from a cold Cool Plate cuts down on the bubbling of the sticker. I have an unused Bambu PEI Plate; early on I thought I might need one, but the Cool Plate works just fine. From what I can tell I believe I spend less time cleaning and prepping my build plate than PEI users. Windex is fast and easy. I wash the plate with soap and water occasionally.
Just bought p1s and ams is jamming all the time with the bambu spools that came with the printer. Now Im waiting for the ball bearings which i ordered to weigh the spools down. Hope it will work.
The AMS can count the rotations of the spool when pulling the filament a fixed length. This allows it to know how much filament is left without storing the data in the cloud. It’s amazing tbh
I found that adding a ring to the cardboard spool of to Overture filament cause feeding problems. I noted the spool not turning smoothly because the spool ring was rubbing the AMS cover. I checked closer and noted the rubbing marked the AMS cover. Check this out if you are adding rings to your cardboard spools.
I've been having a warning message during the 1st layer scanning. something about the Lidar .. Not the message about lidar dirty.. it scans half the first layers of the print then kinda fails and retracts towards the back.
I picked mine up during the sale from Microcenter. Coming from a Powerspec 3DX (a Makerbot Duo / Flashforge Creator X clone) it is a world of difference. Everything is on here, filament runout, power outage resume, auto leveling, onboard camera, flow calibration, and active cooling! I had two extruders before so the AMS is trading color selection for two materials at once and lack of ditto printing, but it's not much of a setback.
Clear with a divert tube that actuates with a small servo run to a button, open to push out broken parts, then release. Can be set up easily in the software.
6:15 What about z-offsets? The textured pei is set to -0.02mm as default. So if you by chance should select another plate in the slicer than textured pei / high temperature plate and have the texpei on the bed you would be 0.02mm too high for proper adhesion. for users like me who run a custom start gcode to have different offsets for different filaments for specific plates (alot of else ifs ;) disabling the buildplate detection will render this entire work moot. good energy in the video sir :)
Received my X1C on June 1st. Received the gold textured plate. I was really happy with that because I despised the idea of going back to glue. I started 3d printing back when we used glass build plates and aquanet. I felt like it was going backwards to use glue.
The ams reads amount left from rfid. When new it knows how much is on the spool, then when sliced it uses that amount to say ok there is now this much left on the spool. It records this i fo so if you remove the spool and then reinsert it later it see that rfid and goes ok here is how much is left on this spool now.
My only problems with the AMS have been with old PLA that was too brittle to push through it, and broke up inside the tubing prior to the outlet from the AMS unit itself. Any spool that does this more than once, gets either tossed or relegated to non-AMS use only.
Just ordered a p1s combo, will be here tomorrow. Been using a CR-10 and CR-10S5 . Gonna be weird moving to a fast printer. I have prints that took 6 or 7 days, after looking at Bambu software and slicing that 6 day print will only take 6 or 7 hours. Cant wait.
AMS feeds in x inches of filament and measures how many degrees the spool rotates on the rollers. Since the Bambu spool dimensions are fixed, some basic math can be done to know how far into the roll you are. It could be done by sensing the RFID tag but don't think that would be very accurate (but it probably doesn't need to be). My guess is reading pulses on the motorised roller as the spool rotates it like a generator. Not knowing the spool dimensions and/or the lack of RFID tag is why non Bambu rolls dont get the gauge.
The one issue I have with my P1S is the first slot in the AMS. It drives me insane. Sometimes it will be fine and others I have to keep pressing the remote message on my phone to keep it moving.
With the Holo plates sometimes I get a glass like finish but then sometimes I can also spot some layer lines, I picked Textured PEI in the settings as I read that a little more squish is applied when using that plate, it did not solve the issue. Have you any idea how the Z can be adjusted to achieve a little more squish to the plastic?
I have an x1C with nearly 1200 hours on it. Between the textured PEI and the cool/engineering plate I often prefer the cool/engineering plate because I don't always want a rough surface on my prints. Also, If you maintain the plate really clean, you get really good bed adhesion without any glue (I get the best adhesion this way), but I do recommend using the glue for the really hi temp filaments or even for larger bed-contact surface area prints for easier removal. I ordered another x1C during this ongoing sale and I am hoping that it comes with a cool/engineering plate since they don't sell it anymore and I like it. I also bought a smooth PEI plate to try it out, if it is good, I'll buy another for my other x1C.
The smooth PEI plate is what replaced the cool plate for me. Also love how smooth the holo plates are, wish I could find one without the holo, just the mirror finish
Just stumbled upon this video and will say, I'm a cool plate fan for life. I primarily print in PLA and have both the gold and the black pei plates as well. I find for printing small things like your printed finger screw, only my cool plate would even get close to printing them without a brim. Also with power outages or interruptions, I don't have to worry about my prints getting unstuck. There are valid reasons for having both, but I got so tired of failed parts from bed adhesion, I actively seek out cool plates to buy. As an early adopter with around 12k hours on my couple bambus I've tried everything to make other plates work but keep coming back to the cool plate.
Good to know, I just ordered my X1 C. Most of my printing has been PLA. Oh, and I run a 1500 amp/hr UPS for my computer...the power service out here is unreliable...2-5 minute dropouts that can happen just about any time. The power-link we are on is shared by a Foundry...they get priority!
Am I the only one who hates the textured gold plate? I don't like texture it leaves, and adhesion sucks compared to the ultrabase on the anycubic printer I had before. I assumed the AMS measures filament by comparing rotation of the spool to movement of the filament. As the spool gets lower turning the spool will move the filament more slowly. That, I assume, is why the AMS runs the filament in and out when you first insert a spool.
I love the texture on the gold plate, but if you don't that's totally valid. I remember watching a video from Linus Tech Tips and he was like, "why is this textured like this? do people like this?" so you're not the only one. I don't really have adhesion issues, but I also have never tried the ultrabase plate. I've found that almost 100% of adhesion issues can be solved by a good wash with Dawn dish soap!
Did you have any issues where the filament won't stick to the textured gold plate due to the z offset? I am currently experiencing this issue after swapping to a new build plate. Please let me know how you fixed it.
@@TalkingSasquach Thank you so much for your help! I just purchased X1C 3 weeks ago so I'm just a newbie in Bambu world! I have 2 other 3D printers, 11 years old SeeMeCNC Rostock and CR Ender 5 Plus about 3 years old. But the X1C is superior and some!!! Also thanks for your other videos! Have a great day!
I have about 8000 hours between my 2 X1Cs. Using cardboard spools for 90% of printing. When they get low, drop an 8oz ball bearing in the hub. You MUST clean the interior of the AMS during your monthly maintenance. (You ARE doing monthly maintenance, right everyone?!) 😊
Youre lucky. You must have better local package handlers than I do. Every time Ive taken a chance and purchased cardboard spooled filaments they arrive with the cardboard dented in on a bunch. I own a small print farm with almost 200 machines and don't have the time to respool damaged rolls. Id probably order strictly from Polymaker if they had plastic spools.
Filament tracking is done by combination of software and cloud server. It reads spool serial number and software keep track of the amount of filament used then Upload that to the clouds… then software will download spool data from the cloud and shows on the software when used in the future
eSun has actually moved their Refill Spools to being AMS compatible. They now use the same center cardboard core as the Bambu Refills. Only thing they are missing are RFID chips. Now that does unfortunately make the old eSun Reusable Plastic Spools unusable with their refills. So if you're like me and have quite a few of them they are pretty much useless now unless you can find another brand that has the same larger diameter core as their older refills. I have not as of yet. In all honesty I think that the Refill Spools need to be standardized across all brands. With the Bambu version being the standard they should take on. It just makes sense.
I managed to rip that terminal off the hot end. I actually managed to get it slid back onto its contacts that stayed on the board and put a lil drop of epoxy.
FWIW: received my X1C Combo 15-Nov-2024 and the included build plate is the gold textured double-sided plate. Also, as for tracking usage, it can't be anything to do with the AMS itself, it's got to be the printer logging AMS-fed extruded filament consumed. The AMS doesn't have any "brains" per se, and all the back and forth of loading and unloading when switching between rolls it just wouldn't make any sense tracking via what the AMS itself might report (it would be constantly adding and subtracting). Plus if you have multiple AMS I'll bet the tracking is retained if you move a spool from one AMS to another. What I would agree with though is the filament consumed would only be tracked when using that roll in the AMS, as it can read the NFC tag on the spool, while using that same spool directly feeding the printer there's no way for the printer to read the NFC tag. Is that all logged in the cloud somewhere? Probably, knowing how Bambu essentially logs everything their printers do.
Thanks for the video bud, been trying to decide what printer to get. Was thinking the a1, just ordered the x1c. Now to explain the 1600 charge to the wife..
I just cannot figure out what you're saying at the 3:12 mark. Don't run it through the (can't make it out) nozzle... You're talking so fast I just can't understand it, can you please clarify?
I have NOT had the same experience with support. Have had a few different problems and all support does is say "yeah you probably want to replace "this" and sends me a link to the part in the store. I have 4 Bambus (X1C w/AMS, P1S w/AMS, A1 w/AMS Lite, and an A1 Mini ) and I do maintenance on them - and none of them are more than 6 months old. Yes they have been extremely reliable and great print quality, but support doesnt seem helpful. (Case in point- AMS on X1C has been having problems feeding in AMS bay #1 - seems like the feeder assembly is having issues. Can't find the defect, but support is like "yeah you might want to replace the feeder assembly..and just sent me a link to where to order it".
Those two screws in the bottom of the AMS… I’ve stopped putting them back in, and now it’s MUCH quicker to clear a jam. If there’s a good reason to keep them screwed in, please let me know, but so far everything still works fine.
Print Farm Owner here. Cardboard spools are a breeze for me because I wrap electrical tape around the edges of the roll. No need for the dumb rings. I have zero cardboard dust and have amazing results. As for the cardboard roll getting too light. I have alot of spool weights that screw in the inside on the roll and I fill them with coins and it gives the roll the perfect amount of weight to run like normal. Hope this helps someone and also saves time from printing those dumb spool liners.
I used all of 2 glue sticks. Yes, it' does need to be cleaned off, but in my case, it kept the parts from pulling off the plate and warping. But... i tried the liquid glue, and it's awesome. It doesn't show up in the first layer, washes off and can be applied quickly and easily. I only use it on some materials and plates, a lot don't need it.
I to migrated from Creality the CR10s though. The Bambu X1C has been a compete game changer for me too and I couldn't agree more the most reliable I've ever owned too.
Watch out for your tubing, once they start to wear through, you will notice loading problems; I recommend you change out all of them at that time. I think we came across this issue around 1,600 hours or so, but friend had the problem much sooner. The tubing wears and splits, not good!
The only benefit of the Cool Plate is when you're doing precise tolerance PLA parts. The average user won't notice a difference because most of us don't use it for that.
Fun fact, when I was doing high-detail first layer prints on my holo-plates, I did use the cool plate settings. The thing is that you don't actually need the cool plate to use the cool plate settings.
@@TalkingSasquach I'm talking specifically about elephant's foot. Since the Cool Plate is so cool, you generally don't get any of the potential elephant's foot like you may with the other plates that require hotter temps. Don't get me wrong, 99% of the time, I used the textured gold pei plate. You just asked to be convinced about the cool plate lol
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
For cardboard spools, I bought a bottle of clear nail polish and just brush a little on the spool edges. It dries quickly and seals the edges perfectly so they don’t shed fibers.
You can print these rings that snap onto the cardboard edges of the spool
It's believed the AMS fuel gauge works by measuring the distance of filament used between full rotations the RFID tag makes.
This is my understanding as well
I get the fuel gauge showing even when I have no BL filament in the AMS, it never changes though!
What? RFID rotation? 'cmon, circumference is different on every spin. It should be smarter than that, and measure length by stepper motor rotations. Just like old school Ender 3 does.
@@enosunim nope works very fine since rfid tag is at the same place and it looks at how much filament got extruded by turn and since that changes with diminishing circumference
It's a little simpler than that, since if you're counting RFID rotations you also have to consider different filament length as you work your way to the end of the roll.
BL knows not only how heavy the filament is, but how long it is in meters (it's in fact right on the box). The extruder runs however many meters of filament through and subtracts it from the total that's left (which itself is tracked on the spool's RFID serial number). This is how you can take out a BL spool for another, put it back on later and still have the fuel gauge show up where it left off.
I've got about 1000hrs on my P1S in about 9 months (I use it a lot, lot of long prints etc), and I've been printing and building printers since late 2011 and I can say a few things on it having had a few issues in that time (some self inflicted and some due to design issues with it). In terms of clogged AMS, I've never had to go to a teardown of it but I have heard people find it easy enough to do (I do a bit of a dance of removing any other rolls, ejecting the PTFE from the printer and then finding where it's bound up and getting it to feed backwards).
In terms of cardboard spools - they don't leave any residue behind tbh, I just had a look in my AMS after going through maybe 16 rolls of filament in a row of cardboard and there's nothing in there dirt or dust wise. They are in printed rings though - some slip when trying without them. the cardboard is the same stock as the centres of the polymaker rolls that bambulabs use. If you're fine with the abrasion they take from filament there's no real issues with the whole cardboard ones imho. They also don't bounce when they're nearly empty either, at least no more than a plastic one or a Bambu one. Lots of manufacturers do refills in the same way (BambuLabs weren't innovative in any way here), even on cardboard spools or self printed spools!
The measurement thing is on the Wiki - "The RFID reading process can also be used to estimate the remaining filament. The working principle is to estimate the percentage of the remaining filament on the spool by the length of the filament sent out after the RFID tag on the spool rotates a full circle. The complete 1kg filament roll is 100% capacity by default."
If there's a takeaway here - don't be afraid of cardboard spools, sure there's no fuel gauge, and you might need some rings, but they are recyclable. Also, print the silica gel inserts for the AMS, take them out and microwave them (take the gel out and put into a microwave safe container and be careful they get VERY hot) when it starts showing moisture on the BambuStudio/OrcaSlicer/hygrometer or prints go weird. They really work well.
Oh and give the carbon rods a wipe from time to time, it's good to remove the dust.
I’ve noticed the same thing. People saying they have failure to feed and retracts and all this. I tried the rings didn’t like it. Ended up getting a ton of empty bambu spools from someone. Just paid shipping. I’ve done several 2-5 day multicolor prints with zero user interface. Recently a 5 day 3,000 filament change model with zero problems. If you use the right spools these things just work!
I bought a brand new X1C and it arrived today. Came with the gold plate. The unit works awesome. I've been printing dust covers and AMS feeder savers lol. Thanks for the video, very helpful!
There is a difference between the textured plate and the smooth plates. For the textured plate the Z-Offset is set to 0.04mm lower in the startup G-Code, pressumably to better smoosh the filament into the valleys of the texture.
Yup, very accurate
From my understanding it finds the tag in a certain spot, then shoots filament down to the ams hub sensor, it knows what that length is and counts the revolutions of the tag to work out roughly how much is left
Thats brilliant!
Dude how do you print petg so clear? I've tried everything. Different filament brands, nozzle sizes, bunch of settings and nothing close to what you can do. Do you release your print profile? Patreons maybe? As a '90 kids I just want that clear purple n64 look so bad.
@Willdabeast1138 I'll have to rewatch but I am almost 100% sure he said his clear prints are Hatchbox PLA.
@@ElevatedPerspectives 4:12 he shows a transparent blue print that he has issues while perfecting
My new P1S came with the gold plate
I love that plate!
4:29 the image is incorrect for bambulab hotends, there isn't a thermal insulator as proposed.
Yah, kinda just got a generic hot end diagram, you are entirely correct.
3:30 - you earned my subscription when you said this. I've had my X1-Carbon about a year as well and I have not done much more than grease the lead screws once and vacuum out the build chamber. So just by letting me know that I'm not the only one who's neglected their poor li'l X1-C, I hit that subscribe button. I do have quite a lot more hours on my printer than you do, though. It's my only printer so I've got over 3K hours on it. Probably time to get in there and tighten a few things and replace some wipes or something. I did, however, mod the hell out of my AMS by building the Python AMS upgrade. I love that thing!
Good video. I'm about a year into my X1 now and love it. I have had a few problems with the AMS. There have been a few filament breaks inside the AMS which require dissassembly. I find this to be a pain. There are two tiny screws in the back bottom of the AMS that are hard to get to, difficult to see, and difficult to reinsert. Once those are handled it's not too bad to get the filament blockage cleared out. I converted to the HYDRA package, which is helping with the spool sizes a bit, but did nothing regarding filament breakage. I acknowledge that much of the filament breakage is mitigated when the filament is properly dried out. I am now in the process of getting the PYTHON AMS mod which looks like it's much easier to work on should a filament break occur. I recently purchased the Bambu A1 with AMS and this one is much easier to work with. Because of the less complicated filament paths breakage is greatly reduced.
You also mentioned using the textured plates. For me this didn't go well at all. My first attempt resulted in failure to stick and later results were mediocre at best. There is a good selection available on AMAZON with very good instructions on how to use the textured plates. I might try again. My final gripe with the AMS is that only one of my 4 slots actually reads the spools anymore. It may be due to being taken apart a few times, it's hard to tell. Since I expect to be using the PYTHON soon, it's a moot point, since the PYTHON does not allow for AMS reading. On the AMS all the RFI or what ever the spool ID process is, works just fine. One thing I especially like with the X1 is how well it prints ABS. I don't expect to obtain the same results with the open air A1 unless it's for very small items.
You just blew my mind. I was having issues with the overture petg spools keep creating AMS overloading error messages.
You can just rip off the cardboard outer rings and slap that b in a bambu spool. Perfectly. No issues.
Amazing.
I just got my X!C and I did get the Gold Textured Build plate. With texture on both sides. After using the Buildtak sheets and some others. I love having the build plate surface already installed for me.
What do you think of the super tack build plate?
@@moodberry I think it’s out of stock lol. I’ve been trying to get one for weeks!
@@TalkingSasquach Good to know. I was thinking of ordering, but I'll wait now. Unless of course your contacts at Bambu can help us out ;)
I bought the A1 mini during the anniversary sale!! I'm so excited to receive it in the mail soon!
It’s a great deal.
5:48 By using the cool plate you reduce your typical electrical bill consumption. I don't use it, but I know that for some folks that's just an enough reason.
I'll buy this as a genuine positive for the cool plate.
the plates are like 10-20 bucks on amazon, already done, no need to DIY. Just need to disable on the X1 the plate check, otherwise it will complain (you can ignore it).
The gold PEI is default now on the X1C.
Depends on the AMS version you have. The current, new, AMS units have a different drive system that doesn't tear up the cardboard spools. Only time I have needed to re-spool (tear the sides off and use a bambu one) is when the spool is mangled from shipping.
I started with the A1 combo....1800 hours in 4 months, thing has never stopped printing LOL. I do re-lube the bed when it asks, now having to use silicone based 3-in-1 oil (same stuff I use on my Voron 2.4 350) after running out of the stuff they send you.
Thanks for telling us about the "new" AMS unit. But how do I know if I have the new one? I just ordered an X1 Carbon with AMS, so this is my first experience with Bambu. I just want to know I am getting an improved AMS. Can you tell me how to know the difference?
I have had ZERO problems with the cool plate sticker I put on a year ago. It is still useable and with zero damage and around 2000 prints on it. Just recently did I finally pull out my textured PEI and I love that as well, and neither have ever given me a single problem and this was my first printer.
Only thing I would recommend is keep up with maintenance on your carbon rods. Mine failed around 1500hrs and I cleaned them a decent amount. It wasn’t a super fun replacement but I got mine back up and going and it prints like new again.
Good to know! I appreciate you!
I'll be honest, it's the first time i see a Talking Sasquach. I'm digging it, i like the chewbacca vibe.
Great video. I just got the P1S combo and man I love it. Amazing prints just out of the box.
You should look deeper into bamboo labs customer service. S😅o many people are frustrated with the hoops that they try to make you jump through in order to get any kind of service done. I would rather pay for the parts and find out on the internet what is going on than try to rely on bamboo lab service. After only a month of using my X1 with the AMS , the AMS broke. One slot refused to retract the filament. All the other slots worked fine. Because of the hassle of working with Bambu I just ordered a new AMS figuring I could get back to printing and use the original as a spare after tearing it apart. Being new to 3d printing I had no idea where to start and it broke in the middle of a print so I was afraid I would lose what I had started.
One very positive thing about the X1 is a power failure while printing will not hurt your print. It will pick up right where it left off. The same is true for poop shute clog. Once fixed, it will start where it left off. It's just too bad Bambu does not have better customer service.
This has been my experience as well. I will say if it was only that one slot - easier to replace the entire feeder assembly and/or the motor. It's not too hard. But the hoops they make you go through seems almost intended just to frustrate you until you fix it yourself without them.
Wherever I watch videos on printers there always seems to be this feud between Prusa people and Bambu people. I just want amazing print quality, a reliable printer that doesn't surveil you, and good customer service.
The fuel gauge is an estimate of the outer diameter of the filament bundle. A large roll will have a larger diameter of the bundle of filament. A smaller roll vice versa. It tracks how many meters of filament per rotation (detecting the tag, not detecting, then detecting it again) and by doing some math and a lookup chart for BBL spools, it gives estimates
Do you use tpu will the gold plate still work with tpu too?
i don't know if the ams actually does this, but it is technically possible to estimate the amount of filament remaining (on any roll) by reading the rpm of the roll as you pull filament into the system (the less filament there is the faster the roll would spin). not an exact science, but a simple calculation, and would be a decent estimate.
850 hours?! You need to step it up my friend, I've had mine for almost a year with over 2,900 hours! 🤣🤣 And I work out at sea for over half a year, so basically I've printed 2,900 hours in less than 6 months. 😁 But it's all good, just teasing, thanks for the video. 😁
Agreed, I need to step up my game!
That printer ran 66% of the time in that 6 months.
😱
@@recoveryguru When I'm home from sea my printer runs constantly. LOL.
Only 2900 hours in 6 months? What did it do during the other 1480 hours?
Come on man, that's wasted time!
Dood! I ❤ your personality! I just ordered my X1C at the black friday deal. I plan on waiting for the new plate later in Nov. Thanks!
I enjoyed the video! I too was surprised at how much faster and easier to use than my retired Robo R1+. It’s a game changer. The software/firmware was great to start with and continues to get better. I have a Kickstarter X1C with AMS and have 1700 hours using the Cool Plate for PLA printing. I used Windex as the release agent from day 1. The original Cool plate is on sticker 2. I also have a second Cool Plate now which comes in handy for large prints. I pull the plate and start another print while the other cools down. Removing large prints from a cold Cool Plate cuts down on the bubbling of the sticker. I have an unused Bambu PEI Plate; early on I thought I might need one, but the Cool Plate works just fine. From what I can tell I believe I spend less time cleaning and prepping my build plate than PEI users. Windex is fast and easy. I wash the plate with soap and water occasionally.
Just bought p1s and ams is jamming all the time with the bambu spools that came with the printer. Now Im waiting for the ball bearings which i ordered to weigh the spools down. Hope it will work.
What’s that blue lighting in the corner behind you plz…?
It's an old plasma lamp from Spencer's Gifts
The AMS can count the rotations of the spool when pulling the filament a fixed length. This allows it to know how much filament is left without storing the data in the cloud. It’s amazing tbh
Hey Talking sasquatch! Great video. Do you have a link for the textured sheet jig?
I found that adding a ring to the cardboard spool of to Overture filament cause feeding problems. I noted the spool not turning smoothly because the spool ring was rubbing the AMS cover. I checked closer and noted the rubbing marked the AMS cover. Check this out if you are adding rings to your cardboard spools.
Can i run abs with my ams setting ontop of the glass? The window glass won’t get to hot for the AMS bottom?
What filament brand do you mainly print with?
What's it like with lightweight PLA can you test it, please?
I just got my X1C this month and it came with the gold texture place also with the .2 nozzle
I've been having a warning message during the 1st layer scanning. something about the Lidar ..
Not the message about lidar dirty.. it scans half the first layers of the print then kinda fails and retracts towards the back.
I picked mine up during the sale from Microcenter. Coming from a Powerspec 3DX (a Makerbot Duo / Flashforge Creator X clone) it is a world of difference. Everything is on here, filament runout, power outage resume, auto leveling, onboard camera, flow calibration, and active cooling! I had two extruders before so the AMS is trading color selection for two materials at once and lack of ditto printing, but it's not much of a setback.
Clear with a divert tube that actuates with a small servo run to a button, open to push out broken parts, then release. Can be set up easily in the software.
6:15 What about z-offsets? The textured pei is set to -0.02mm as default. So if you by chance should select another plate in the slicer than textured pei / high temperature plate and have the texpei on the bed you would be 0.02mm too high for proper adhesion.
for users like me who run a custom start gcode to have different offsets for different filaments for specific plates (alot of else ifs ;) disabling the buildplate detection will render this entire work moot.
good energy in the video sir :)
Received my X1C on June 1st. Received the gold textured plate. I was really happy with that because I despised the idea of going back to glue. I started 3d printing back when we used glass build plates and aquanet. I felt like it was going backwards to use glue.
The ams reads amount left from rfid. When new it knows how much is on the spool, then when sliced it uses that amount to say ok there is now this much left on the spool. It records this i fo so if you remove the spool and then reinsert it later it see that rfid and goes ok here is how much is left on this spool now.
My only problems with the AMS have been with old PLA that was too brittle to push through it, and broke up inside the tubing prior to the outlet from the AMS unit itself. Any spool that does this more than once, gets either tossed or relegated to non-AMS use only.
Just ordered a p1s combo, will be here tomorrow. Been using a CR-10 and CR-10S5 . Gonna be weird moving to a fast printer. I have prints that took 6 or 7 days, after looking at Bambu software and slicing that 6 day print will only take 6 or 7 hours. Cant wait.
AMS feeds in x inches of filament and measures how many degrees the spool rotates on the rollers. Since the Bambu spool dimensions are fixed, some basic math can be done to know how far into the roll you are. It could be done by sensing the RFID tag but don't think that would be very accurate (but it probably doesn't need to be). My guess is reading pulses on the motorised roller as the spool rotates it like a generator. Not knowing the spool dimensions and/or the lack of RFID tag is why non Bambu rolls dont get the gauge.
how do you do that with the first layer?
Do we get your top must have prints ?
The one issue I have with my P1S is the first slot in the AMS. It drives me insane. Sometimes it will be fine and others I have to keep pressing the remote message on my phone to keep it moving.
Perfect timing. I was just looking at these and needed a good review.
You're the best ❤
With the Holo plates sometimes I get a glass like finish but then sometimes I can also spot some layer lines, I picked Textured PEI in the settings as I read that a little more squish is applied when using that plate, it did not solve the issue.
Have you any idea how the Z can be adjusted to achieve a little more squish to the plastic?
New sub! Love the info delivery style and the positive energy!
@TalkingSasquach what do you think about controlling an hackrf1 through the flipper zero?
We’ve had the X1 Carbon since July 2023 and have 2,230 hours on it…OMG!
Got a p1s a month ago and came with the gold textured plate. Best plate I’ve ever used.
I have an x1C with nearly 1200 hours on it. Between the textured PEI and the cool/engineering plate I often prefer the cool/engineering plate because I don't always want a rough surface on my prints. Also, If you maintain the plate really clean, you get really good bed adhesion without any glue (I get the best adhesion this way), but I do recommend using the glue for the really hi temp filaments or even for larger bed-contact surface area prints for easier removal. I ordered another x1C during this ongoing sale and I am hoping that it comes with a cool/engineering plate since they don't sell it anymore and I like it. I also bought a smooth PEI plate to try it out, if it is good, I'll buy another for my other x1C.
The smooth PEI plate is what replaced the cool plate for me. Also love how smooth the holo plates are, wish I could find one without the holo, just the mirror finish
Just stumbled upon this video and will say, I'm a cool plate fan for life. I primarily print in PLA and have both the gold and the black pei plates as well. I find for printing small things like your printed finger screw, only my cool plate would even get close to printing them without a brim. Also with power outages or interruptions, I don't have to worry about my prints getting unstuck.
There are valid reasons for having both, but I got so tired of failed parts from bed adhesion, I actively seek out cool plates to buy. As an early adopter with around 12k hours on my couple bambus I've tried everything to make other plates work but keep coming back to the cool plate.
Good to know, I just ordered my X1 C.
Most of my printing has been PLA.
Oh, and I run a 1500 amp/hr UPS for my computer...the power service out here is unreliable...2-5 minute dropouts that can happen just about any time.
The power-link we are on is shared by a Foundry...they get priority!
question, can you run that thing without being connected to the interweb?
Any video links on how to adjust that internal camera?
wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-chamber-camera
I totally agree with you, especially on the low cost of replacement parts.
are new portapack videos coming?
I'm working on getting my amateur radio license for that
Am I the only one who hates the textured gold plate? I don't like texture it leaves, and adhesion sucks compared to the ultrabase on the anycubic printer I had before.
I assumed the AMS measures filament by comparing rotation of the spool to movement of the filament. As the spool gets lower turning the spool will move the filament more slowly. That, I assume, is why the AMS runs the filament in and out when you first insert a spool.
I love the texture on the gold plate, but if you don't that's totally valid. I remember watching a video from Linus Tech Tips and he was like, "why is this textured like this? do people like this?" so you're not the only one. I don't really have adhesion issues, but I also have never tried the ultrabase plate. I've found that almost 100% of adhesion issues can be solved by a good wash with Dawn dish soap!
Did you have any issues where the filament won't stick to the textured gold plate due to the z offset? I am currently experiencing this issue after swapping to a new build plate. Please let me know how you fixed it.
Automatic bed leveling and cleaning the plate with Dawn Dish Soap!
@@TalkingSasquach That didn't work for me. I had to disable the build plate detection.
I've used them in mine and so far it's been ok, great vid btw!
The AMS has an odometer as the filament leaves the AMS. So it's basically measuring length.
Where can i find the hack rf case print files? Thx
makerworld.com/en/@ZR_CrackiiN/profile
Just use soapy water, ever installed vinyl decals, stickers, tint,etc?
Have you tried 3dlac?
Thank you for sharing your videos! I can't find where can I download the jig you shown ?
Have a great day!
makerworld.com/en/models/470778#profileId-380298 There ya go!
@@TalkingSasquach Thank you so much for your help! I just purchased X1C 3 weeks ago so I'm just a newbie in Bambu world! I have 2 other 3D printers, 11 years old SeeMeCNC Rostock and CR Ender 5 Plus about 3 years old. But the X1C is superior and some!!! Also thanks for your other videos! Have a great day!
Hi nice video, can you post the exact plate from ali express for the 3d pei . Thanks
www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805763085124.html
I have about 8000 hours between my 2 X1Cs. Using cardboard spools for 90% of printing. When they get low, drop an 8oz ball bearing in the hub. You MUST clean the interior of the AMS during your monthly maintenance. (You ARE doing monthly maintenance, right everyone?!) 😊
Youre lucky. You must have better local package handlers than I do. Every time Ive taken a chance and purchased cardboard spooled filaments they arrive with the cardboard dented in on a bunch. I own a small print farm with almost 200 machines and don't have the time to respool damaged rolls. Id probably order strictly from Polymaker if they had plastic spools.
Thanks for the tip about the cardboard dust!
Filament tracking is done by combination of software and cloud server. It reads spool serial number and software keep track of the amount of filament used then Upload that to the clouds… then software will download spool data from the cloud and shows on the software when used in the future
The cool plate is good to not use the heat bed so you can run more printers on a single breaker.
Can anyone tell me how to find the files for that ZR Kraken HackRF case? It looks amazing, I’d love to give it a go but I can’t find it!
eSun has actually moved their Refill Spools to being AMS compatible. They now use the same center cardboard core as the Bambu Refills. Only thing they are missing are RFID chips. Now that does unfortunately make the old eSun Reusable Plastic Spools unusable with their refills. So if you're like me and have quite a few of them they are pretty much useless now unless you can find another brand that has the same larger diameter core as their older refills. I have not as of yet.
In all honesty I think that the Refill Spools need to be standardized across all brands. With the Bambu version being the standard they should take on. It just makes sense.
I managed to rip that terminal off the hot end. I actually managed to get it slid back onto its contacts that stayed on the board and put a lil drop of epoxy.
FWIW: received my X1C Combo 15-Nov-2024 and the included build plate is the gold textured double-sided plate.
Also, as for tracking usage, it can't be anything to do with the AMS itself, it's got to be the printer logging AMS-fed extruded filament consumed. The AMS doesn't have any "brains" per se, and all the back and forth of loading and unloading when switching between rolls it just wouldn't make any sense tracking via what the AMS itself might report (it would be constantly adding and subtracting). Plus if you have multiple AMS I'll bet the tracking is retained if you move a spool from one AMS to another. What I would agree with though is the filament consumed would only be tracked when using that roll in the AMS, as it can read the NFC tag on the spool, while using that same spool directly feeding the printer there's no way for the printer to read the NFC tag. Is that all logged in the cloud somewhere? Probably, knowing how Bambu essentially logs everything their printers do.
Thanks for the video bud, been trying to decide what printer to get. Was thinking the a1, just ordered the x1c. Now to explain the 1600 charge to the wife..
I’m getting the hack rf case, looks great
Yeah it's fantastic!
just got my X1 and it came with the gold plate, i also got the smooth plate as well
I just cannot figure out what you're saying at the 3:12 mark. Don't run it through the (can't make it out) nozzle... You're talking so fast I just can't understand it, can you please clarify?
Sorry, I do talk fast! I was saying how you never want to run a sparkle filament through the .2 nozzle, it can get jammed really easily
@@TalkingSasquach .2 !!! Thank you so much for the reply!
Got my P1S a week ago. The gold plate was included 👍
it is hard to use bambu lab filaments when they are always out of Stock....anyone know of where to get it from somewhere other than BL..let me know
Title said “don’t ruin your AMS” but didn’t say how not to??????
I think he was referring to not using cardboard spools like he talked about in the video
carboard spools and filament breaking off. If you skip around you'll miss the AMS section.
I have NOT had the same experience with support. Have had a few different problems and all support does is say "yeah you probably want to replace "this" and sends me a link to the part in the store. I have 4 Bambus (X1C w/AMS, P1S w/AMS, A1 w/AMS Lite, and an A1 Mini ) and I do maintenance on them - and none of them are more than 6 months old. Yes they have been extremely reliable and great print quality, but support doesnt seem helpful. (Case in point- AMS on X1C has been having problems feeding in AMS bay #1 - seems like the feeder assembly is having issues. Can't find the defect, but support is like "yeah you might want to replace the feeder assembly..and just sent me a link to where to order it".
I use the cool plate for printing PHB/PLA (NonOilen) and it works amazing
Those two screws in the bottom of the AMS…
I’ve stopped putting them back in, and now it’s MUCH quicker to clear a jam.
If there’s a good reason to keep them screwed in, please let me know, but so far everything still works fine.
I tend to think that they’re more for stability when shipping, than for normal operation.
yah mine are gone too lol
My P1s only reads one of the four slots at any given time. No clue as to why.
Print Farm Owner here. Cardboard spools are a breeze for me because I wrap electrical tape around the edges of the roll. No need for the dumb rings. I have zero cardboard dust and have amazing results. As for the cardboard roll getting too light. I have alot of spool weights that screw in the inside on the roll and I fill them with coins and it gives the roll the perfect amount of weight to run like normal. Hope this helps someone and also saves time from printing those dumb spool liners.
I used all of 2 glue sticks. Yes, it' does need to be cleaned off, but in my case, it kept the parts from pulling off the plate and warping. But... i tried the liquid glue, and it's awesome. It doesn't show up in the first layer, washes off and can be applied quickly and easily. I only use it on some materials and plates, a lot don't need it.
New X1 Carbon comes with the gold plate for sure. They still suggest using glue, but I have had no need for it. Hooray for gold plate.
Glue on the gold plate makes me sad. Maybe for ABS but with PETG or PLA its totally unnecessary
Is that transparent filament pla or petg and pleas can i get the settings for that bcs im trying to do a transparent rose with led diode inside
I try to only use transparent PETG now because PLA likes to break in the AMS. wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/transparent-petg
@@TalkingSasquach thanks
I to migrated from Creality the CR10s though. The Bambu X1C has been a compete game changer for me too and I couldn't agree more the most reliable I've ever owned too.
anybody got a link for that ams desiccant bead boxes? i have rectangular hygrometers i wanna put in mine and i wanna find that model
Nice video and presentation. Even and pleasant to watch!
Watch out for your tubing, once they start to wear through, you will notice loading problems; I recommend you change out all of them at that time. I think we came across this issue around 1,600 hours or so, but friend had the problem much sooner. The tubing wears and splits, not good!
Yeah I've definitely noticed wear on the Bowden that rubs on the top of the glass
Iirc Textured plates can’t be used with auto flow calibration, which is the only trade off worth paying attention to
True but you can do that one time before and then use it
The only benefit of the Cool Plate is when you're doing precise tolerance PLA parts. The average user won't notice a difference because most of us don't use it for that.
Fun fact, when I was doing high-detail first layer prints on my holo-plates, I did use the cool plate settings. The thing is that you don't actually need the cool plate to use the cool plate settings.
@@TalkingSasquach I'm talking specifically about elephant's foot. Since the Cool Plate is so cool, you generally don't get any of the potential elephant's foot like you may with the other plates that require hotter temps.
Don't get me wrong, 99% of the time, I used the textured gold pei plate. You just asked to be convinced about the cool plate lol