Hey there! Wow! Thank you SO MUCH for the shout out in the vid and kind words! :D As for the reading - it's going to be inevitable that the hygrometer's proximity to the desiccant will skew the reading - while designing it special care was taking to have solid walls surrounding the hygrometer and that they extended the full length to avoid desiccant beads from being in the path of air between the outside of the box and the hygrometer (which incidentally is also why they're so 'thin' because most of the desiccan't boxes I found for the AMS had the hygrometer spot within a next of desiccan't, so I wanted them to have the grid for the air to not pass through desiccant on their way to the hygro) this is the case for all of the designs except for the 'Hoyieurs' model, that one has it's sensor on it's left and right so it's box has cutouts for the air to reach it, and it's slightyly narrower so that air can flow around the box. If you'd like to get the most accurate reading, just leaving desiccant beads out of the center position would be a good bet. So far the variance has been in the single digits. In experiments, while the hygrometer showed 13% in the desiccant box, one adhere'd to the lid showed 15% so it is affected but not so much that your filament will be soaked and the meter is way way off. Hope this helps! Thank you so much again for the vid!!!
Thanks! You did a great job designing these! Really is one of the nicer desiccant holders I have found. And Hopefully it gave a nice boost to your points 😀
I may be way off with this theory but think of it this way, when its surrounded like that your monitoring how wet your desiccant is , so when its high, change it, i doubt there would be that much of a difference throughout the rest of the AMS...... Maybe just stick another meter in there to test.
I originally printed a different set of desiccant boxes that did not have a hygrometer mount provision. Then printed the same set as shown here. To test the idea that the idea that the hygrometer surrounded by desiccant may give an inaccurate reading, I dropped a second hygrometer into an empty slot of the ams. After 12 hours or so, both hygrometers were reading almost equal humidity. ( +/- 1 to 2%) The Bambu Lab display consistently shows 1. Close enough for me. FYI, I'm using the Wisesorb activated alumina desiccant.
I have a different version in my X1C...I just left the middle one empty and filled the outer two--also have two where the Bambu desiccant bags go. The version you're using has smaller holes--good for not letter the small broken pieces falling into your AMS. I put a second meter outside the AMS so I can see the difference. As far as the hot garage, two words--Mini Split. Cheap, can self install, work great. Put insulation panels on the doors and insulate the walls and ceilings. It can be 97 outside and I can cool inside to 72...36K cooling 220v unit.
Wowzers, thanks so much again Rad Dad! just found out today that the boxes are now an official Bambu Lab Maker's Supply Kit over on the Maker's Supply store now :O WUT?!
I printed mine in clear PC with the idea being that I don't need to remove the desiccant from the containers. If they absorb too much moisture, I can just throw them in the printer on the filament drying cycle and dry the desiccant out. The PC should easily be able to withstand the 90°C of even the high temp drying cycles. The clear PC also allows me to easily monitor the moisture level by checking the color (I use orange -> greenish-blue desiccant). At least that's the theory. So far I'm still on my first cycle. With the double stacked inserts in the three slots in the front, plus a different design to replace the desiccant in the bottom (also printed in transparent PC) I have roughly 450g of desiccant in my AMS right now. I guess it will take some time for it to get saturated (humidity isn't too bad here in Germany right now).
thanks for the input, where did you buy the desiccant beads? what I find is so extremely expensive (i think) Sorry I am new to this, to print in PC what do I have to take in account? (fresh P1S+AMS owner :) danke
I realized quickly after printing a drybox version with the Hygrometer that it would only read the desiccant level. So I do the same. But unless you shine a light to back light the granules you can't really tell what color they are. So reading the desiccant moisture level is great for knowing when it needs recharging.
The one I downloaded and printed had the hole at the back of the Hygrometer hole completely open so a lot less distortion of the reading, it also fills from the top and came with a special funnel to fill all five boxes and the lids slide on from the sides, a great improvement that I gave a Boost to on MakerWorld, cannot remember which one it was off hand(sorry) but you can download and slice and check out the model before printing to make sure its correct and no way for the hygrometer to touch with the desiccant.
Hydrometers take about 12 hours to fully adjust to the humidity levels within a space. You never mentioned how long the meters were in the containers when comparing them to the wall mounted one. And you're 100% accurate, having the meters mounted on or near the Desiccant containers is not a good idea. The Meter should be mounted in the very middle chamber without having a desiccant pod in that chamber. Just mounted the meter to the wall using 2-sided tape or don't fill that middle Desiccant container at all. People design many devices that contain scientific or technology devices without performing their due diligence on the specs of the device and how to properly apply and protects its true functioning. It may look cool, but as you noted, make not perform as designed! Remove the Desiccant from the middle container, give three days and then check the levels. Good video, you speak well, at a good pitch and pace and are easy to understand. Plus you stay on subject and don't do a bunch of side stories and comments!
Great video!!! I had the same thoughts about this print as you did, the hydrometer is, more or less, encased in desiccant, so it will give a lot lower of a reading than what is actually in the AMS. The hydrometers for this build are normally sold in 2-packs, so I took the second one and put it on top of a filament spool in slot one of the AMS (near the top of the AMS), and let it set over night to see what would happen. The hydrometer in the desiccant box read 14%, and the one on the spool read 18%, the moisture is a little higher than what is actually being read. I see two take-aways from this, first, if you add 5% (ish) to what the encased hydrometer is reading, your are in the ballpark; second, still a great build that adds a good amount of desiccant to the AMS to keep the filament dry.
I printed the top position part and only half filled with desiccant. The meter seems to match the internal AMS meter. The AMS meter seems to be 1 point per 10% humidity. Two other tips. I had a hard time with the support on the hydrometer grill, printing in PLA with PETG as the interface layer worked wonderfully. Also there seems to be a flaw on the default print profile for the center container. You can change the walls on that part from 7 to 3 to match the other boxes. Lastly there are many variations of the round meter that vary by a couple of mm. If yours is lose, print the version rotated 45 degrees opposite of you meter and press fit it in.
Hi. I’ve got much the same setup as you, but I’m using the bigger boxes, plus silica gel containers, in the bottom of the AMS. Perhaps the discussion regarding the accuracy of the measurement is not really relevant, or important. What is important is being able to determine when the desiccant requires changing. When loaded with four spools, my hydrometer settles at 10%, probably due to the close proximity of the silica gel, but this is not a problem. If I open the AMS, to change a spool, it goes up to say 14%, and then slowly drops back to 10%. However, when the RH starts to go up, and stays up, I know the silica gel needs changing. In addition I’ve had no problems regenerating the silica gel, I use Orange Indicator SG, and simply pop it in the microwave, in a suitable container, on defrost for 10 minutes, give it a good stir, careful it will be hot, check if its regenerated, and if it isn’t put it back in for another 5 minutes.
I have the rectangle hygrometer version. This one unfortunately leaks the dessicant beads all around and even inside the hygrometer itself as there is no separation between the hygrometer chamber and dessicant chamber. And yes, it skews the readings. My solution was using the middle box just as a holder for hygrometer and I only use two more boxes next to the middle one. It is enough to keep my AMS sub 10% for weeks or even few months.
While the hygrometer does measure it’s immediate surrounding humidity, there is an equilibrium time constant that must be considered. When the desiccant modules are initially placed inside the AMS, the hygrometer will read it’s immediate humidity surrounding it. However, due to entropy (2nd law of thermodynamics), the AMS environment will achieve equilibrium over some period of time. This period of time can be short, or take several days depending on how many sources of humidity are inside the AMS environment. The filament itself, cardboard, plastic reels, and initial humidity of the ambient air. These hygrometers that we use are only relative measurements of humidity (+/- 5%) with low resolution in lower humidity. If we could measure humidity with precision, compensated for temperature, we would see the relative humidity continue to asymptotically approach zero, until the desiccant reaches saturation. The question about the hygrometer giving a misreading was a great question to ask, but not one to worry about in the bigger picture of what we are after in our 3D printing world.
How well does your Bambu Lab work in the garage since it is almost 100 degrees? I am considering moving mine from a spare bedroom to the garage because I am worried about VOCs / fumes.
I Honestly havent had any issues with it being in the garage. Im also working on a video where i build the bento box to put in the printer to help with the VOC's and Fumes.
I don’t put desiccant into the middle one containing the hydrometer. That eliminates the change that the proximity to the desiccant will give a artificially low reading. Second: I always print these in PET-G or ABS and then put them into my filament dryer to regenerate the desiccant. If I used PLA the container will deform and dump the desiccant making a mess.
I don’t deal with the bouncing beads. I bought Wisedry in 20g packets and use them. They seem to do well enough and are also easy enough to recharge in the microwave.
Yeah, when I've tested it, it was 13% sitting in the box with desiccant and 17% on an identical hygrometer taped to the top of the inside lid at the top of the spools. unscientific I know, but at least the variance wasn't wildly off. the boxes were designed to allow air to pass from behind the box to the hygrometer without passing through desiccant beads (which is why they're thinner than most) and have solid walls separating the meters from the beads; that said, by virtue of the air around it having more of it's moisutre absorbed than air further away - it is going to be off by a few points - those with discerning needs should leave it out that spot :)
My 2 cents worth, which is less than two (UK) pennies worth. To test the impact of being surrounded by desiccant you should use two boxes with mounts, one with desiccant and one without desiccant in the same AMS. How closely they read against each other will indicate how the surrounding desiccant changes the reading compared to the actual environment within the AMS - i.e. the desiccant-surrounded hygrometer could have a reading of say 20% or 25%, while the non-desiccant hygrometer was reading 25% (i.e. a 5% or 0% difference due to desiccant). The accuracy of the hygrometer is a hygrometer design and manufacturing matter - i.e. your wall hygrometer reading of 40% could be measuring humidity of 50%. It is probably unrealistic to expect the relatively small desiccant box to lower the humidity of the entire garage (especially if the door is open) to that of the air reaching the hygrometer, however, the small AMS container which isn't letting in lots of fresh humid air could well approach equilibrium before and after the desiccant. Your views please!!
yep, all true, i posted a separate comment about this, in testing it was single digits off, but YMMV, for those who want the most accurate reading, leaving desiccant out of the center spot would be the best course.
I think you're not looking at it in the proper perspective. The hygrometer is meant to gauge when the desiccant needs recharging. Instead of pouring it out to see if the color has changed you check the meter and if it's above like 25% you should recharge the desiccant in the oven at 120f for 20-40 minutes in something like a pie tray. I also wouldn't suggest just throwing it away, that stuff it's expensive enough as it is. BTW you should also make the trays for inside the AMS and use the same desiccant in all bays instead of re ordering the BL pouches. If you want your desiccant to last longer dry your filament first and bag the ones you swap out.
So, use a stainless steel korai or similar to dry gel in the oven at 80° to 100°C. No problems at all You can microwave in a pyrex bowl or jug too - life is shorter but it works To avoid spilling, I buy in a 2Kg (4.5lb) tub with temoveable top. I can just dig the container in thete, scoop up beads and put the tlcontainer lid on with the container still inside the tub. No spills at all.
I doubt that works well. The desiccant should be separated from the hygrometer. Also, be careful of those round hygrometers. I bought about 10 cheap ones and they were anywhere from 12% to 20% off. So I recently bought a couple more at a higher price and these were only about 2% to 6% off. Also 29% seems high though I have never seen white desiccant so maybe that is normal. I use either the blue or orange desiccant and the humidity levels in my sealed dry box is around 10% to 15% and I live in a very humid area. When the humidity gets around 30% I pop the desiccant into the toaster oven at 250 degrees F and let them dry out for a couple of hours.
PUT THE SCREWS IN, CAUSE IT WILL SPILL OUT IF NOT WHEN YOU GO TO TAKE THEM OUT.. IF YOU DON'T. LESSON (YESTERDAY) LEARNED. Today I am printing a desicant dryer tray for the Sunlu S4. EDIT: wrong file, mine has screw bosses that need to have a screw in.
why not just leave the center case with hydrometer empty for a more accurate reading? should be enough desiccant in there with the others to absorb moisture
@@RadDadsPrintLab i did expect you to say there were no better results at the end of video, since you titled it like that. On the other side, you recommend this print and say in same time there are "no benefits" doing that cuz humidity drops down even when not installed. So yea, confusing overall.
Sorry, Basically the readings on the hygrometer is the part I was saying had the issue. The Overall Design still drops the humidity levels downs and works properly.
Hey there! Wow! Thank you SO MUCH for the shout out in the vid and kind words! :D As for the reading - it's going to be inevitable that the hygrometer's proximity to the desiccant will skew the reading - while designing it special care was taking to have solid walls surrounding the hygrometer and that they extended the full length to avoid desiccant beads from being in the path of air between the outside of the box and the hygrometer (which incidentally is also why they're so 'thin' because most of the desiccan't boxes I found for the AMS had the hygrometer spot within a next of desiccan't, so I wanted them to have the grid for the air to not pass through desiccant on their way to the hygro) this is the case for all of the designs except for the 'Hoyieurs' model, that one has it's sensor on it's left and right so it's box has cutouts for the air to reach it, and it's slightyly narrower so that air can flow around the box. If you'd like to get the most accurate reading, just leaving desiccant beads out of the center position would be a good bet. So far the variance has been in the single digits. In experiments, while the hygrometer showed 13% in the desiccant box, one adhere'd to the lid showed 15% so it is affected but not so much that your filament will be soaked and the meter is way way off. Hope this helps! Thank you so much again for the vid!!!
Thanks! You did a great job designing these! Really is one of the nicer desiccant holders I have found. And Hopefully it gave a nice boost to your points 😀
I may be way off with this theory but think of it this way, when its surrounded like that your monitoring how wet your desiccant is , so when its high, change it, i doubt there would be that much of a difference throughout the rest of the AMS...... Maybe just stick another meter in there to test.
I originally printed a different set of desiccant boxes that did not have a hygrometer mount provision. Then printed the same set as shown here. To test the idea that the idea that the hygrometer surrounded by desiccant may give an inaccurate reading, I dropped a second hygrometer into an empty slot of the ams. After 12 hours or so, both hygrometers were reading almost equal humidity. ( +/- 1 to 2%) The Bambu Lab display consistently shows 1. Close enough for me. FYI, I'm using the Wisesorb activated alumina desiccant.
Do You want to see more videos showcasing more free files you can print? Also, The Dish I Broke was a Corningware
I have a different version in my X1C...I just left the middle one empty and filled the outer two--also have two where the Bambu desiccant bags go. The version you're using has smaller holes--good for not letter the small broken pieces falling into your AMS. I put a second meter outside the AMS so I can see the difference. As far as the hot garage, two words--Mini Split. Cheap, can self install, work great. Put insulation panels on the doors and insulate the walls and ceilings. It can be 97 outside and I can cool inside to 72...36K cooling 220v unit.
I would absolutely do a mini split, but I rent 😭haha
Wowzers, thanks so much again Rad Dad! just found out today that the boxes are now an official Bambu Lab Maker's Supply Kit over on the Maker's Supply store now :O WUT?!
THATS AWESOME! Every little bit I go back and check your download numbers, just to see how high they went up.
I printed mine in clear PC with the idea being that I don't need to remove the desiccant from the containers. If they absorb too much moisture, I can just throw them in the printer on the filament drying cycle and dry the desiccant out. The PC should easily be able to withstand the 90°C of even the high temp drying cycles. The clear PC also allows me to easily monitor the moisture level by checking the color (I use orange -> greenish-blue desiccant). At least that's the theory. So far I'm still on my first cycle. With the double stacked inserts in the three slots in the front, plus a different design to replace the desiccant in the bottom (also printed in transparent PC) I have roughly 450g of desiccant in my AMS right now. I guess it will take some time for it to get saturated (humidity isn't too bad here in Germany right now).
Thats a Cool idea!
thanks for the input, where did you buy the desiccant beads? what I find is so extremely expensive (i think)
Sorry I am new to this, to print in PC what do I have to take in account? (fresh P1S+AMS owner :)
danke
@@Hyper_RC_Sim_Racing this is what i buy amzn.to/4fjXIWX
I realized quickly after printing a drybox version with the Hygrometer that it would only read the desiccant level. So I do the same. But unless you shine a light to back light the granules you can't really tell what color they are. So reading the desiccant moisture level is great for knowing when it needs recharging.
I use the Bambu Lab Home Assistant integration to notify me when the desiccant in my AMS's needs changing.
thats amazing haha
The one I downloaded and printed had the hole at the back of the Hygrometer hole completely open so a lot less distortion of the reading, it also fills from the top and came with a special funnel to fill all five boxes and the lids slide on from the sides, a great improvement that I gave a Boost to on MakerWorld, cannot remember which one it was off hand(sorry) but you can download and slice and check out the model before printing to make sure its correct and no way for the hygrometer to touch with the desiccant.
Hydrometers take about 12 hours to fully adjust to the humidity levels within a space. You never mentioned how long the meters were in the containers when comparing them to the wall mounted one. And you're 100% accurate, having the meters mounted on or near the Desiccant containers is not a good idea. The Meter should be mounted in the very middle chamber without having a desiccant pod in that chamber. Just mounted the meter to the wall using 2-sided tape or don't fill that middle Desiccant container at all. People design many devices that contain scientific or technology devices without performing their due diligence on the specs of the device and how to properly apply and protects its true functioning. It may look cool, but as you noted, make not perform as designed! Remove the Desiccant from the middle container, give three days and then check the levels. Good video, you speak well, at a good pitch and pace and are easy to understand. Plus you stay on subject and don't do a bunch of side stories and comments!
Thanks for the kind words. I definitely did not give it time to equalize.
I basically just use the hygrometer to tell me the state the desiccant is in and use bambu studio to tell me the moisture levels in the ams.
👍
It'll even out and find equilibrium eventually. I have similar on mine and after 24 hours the AMS reading and the hydrometer are very close.
Great video!!! I had the same thoughts about this print as you did, the hydrometer is, more or less, encased in desiccant, so it will give a lot lower of a reading than what is actually in the AMS. The hydrometers for this build are normally sold in 2-packs, so I took the second one and put it on top of a filament spool in slot one of the AMS (near the top of the AMS), and let it set over night to see what would happen. The hydrometer in the desiccant box read 14%, and the one on the spool read 18%, the moisture is a little higher than what is actually being read. I see two take-aways from this, first, if you add 5% (ish) to what the encased hydrometer is reading, your are in the ballpark; second, still a great build that adds a good amount of desiccant to the AMS to keep the filament dry.
Thanks!
I printed the top position part and only half filled with desiccant. The meter seems to match the internal AMS meter. The AMS meter seems to be 1 point per 10% humidity. Two other tips. I had a hard time with the support on the hydrometer grill, printing in PLA with PETG as the interface layer worked wonderfully. Also there seems to be a flaw on the default print profile for the center container. You can change the walls on that part from 7 to 3 to match the other boxes. Lastly there are many variations of the round meter that vary by a couple of mm. If yours is lose, print the version rotated 45 degrees opposite of you meter and press fit it in.
I didn't know the 1 point per 10% humidity thing. Thats good to know. Thanks!
Hi. I’ve got much the same setup as you, but I’m using the bigger boxes, plus silica gel containers, in the bottom of the AMS.
Perhaps the discussion regarding the accuracy of the measurement is not really relevant, or important. What is important is being able to determine when the desiccant requires changing.
When loaded with four spools, my hydrometer settles at 10%, probably due to the close proximity of the silica gel, but this is not a problem.
If I open the AMS, to change a spool, it goes up to say 14%, and then slowly drops back to 10%. However, when the RH starts to go up, and stays up, I know the silica gel needs changing.
In addition I’ve had no problems regenerating the silica gel, I use Orange Indicator SG, and simply pop it in the microwave, in a suitable container, on defrost for 10 minutes, give it a good stir, careful it will be hot, check if its regenerated, and if it isn’t put it back in for another 5 minutes.
I have the rectangle hygrometer version. This one unfortunately leaks the dessicant beads all around and even inside the hygrometer itself as there is no separation between the hygrometer chamber and dessicant chamber. And yes, it skews the readings. My solution was using the middle box just as a holder for hygrometer and I only use two more boxes next to the middle one. It is enough to keep my AMS sub 10% for weeks or even few months.
While the hygrometer does measure it’s immediate surrounding humidity, there is an equilibrium time constant that must be considered. When the desiccant modules are initially placed inside the AMS, the hygrometer will read it’s immediate humidity surrounding it. However, due to entropy (2nd law of thermodynamics), the AMS environment will achieve equilibrium over some period of time. This period of time can be short, or take several days depending on how many sources of humidity are inside the AMS environment. The filament itself, cardboard, plastic reels, and initial humidity of the ambient air. These hygrometers that we use are only relative measurements of humidity (+/- 5%) with low resolution in lower humidity. If we could measure humidity with precision, compensated for temperature, we would see the relative humidity continue to asymptotically approach zero, until the desiccant reaches saturation. The question about the hygrometer giving a misreading was a great question to ask, but not one to worry about in the bigger picture of what we are after in our 3D printing world.
Thanks for the info. Yeah, Overall I just wanted to highlight the cool and well done design .
How well does your Bambu Lab work in the garage since it is almost 100 degrees? I am considering moving mine from a spare bedroom to the garage because I am worried about VOCs / fumes.
I Honestly havent had any issues with it being in the garage. Im also working on a video where i build the bento box to put in the printer to help with the VOC's and Fumes.
That block wall is where the extra moisture is coming from on the wall unit
What brad pla and is it matte?
If the hygrometer reading starts to rise, it shows how wet the dessicant is, so when it rises above 45% its time to dry your dessicant.
I don’t put desiccant into the middle one containing the hydrometer. That eliminates the change that the proximity to the desiccant will give a artificially low reading. Second: I always print these in PET-G or ABS and then put them into my filament dryer to regenerate the desiccant. If I used PLA the container will deform and dump the desiccant making a mess.
Thats a good idea. Thanks!
I don’t deal with the bouncing beads. I bought Wisedry in 20g packets and use them. They seem to do well enough and are also easy enough to recharge in the microwave.
would it be worth testing it without the desiccant in the box with the hydrometer?
If you didn’t put desiccant in it, it should work fine
Yeah, when I've tested it, it was 13% sitting in the box with desiccant and 17% on an identical hygrometer taped to the top of the inside lid at the top of the spools. unscientific I know, but at least the variance wasn't wildly off. the boxes were designed to allow air to pass from behind the box to the hygrometer without passing through desiccant beads (which is why they're thinner than most) and have solid walls separating the meters from the beads; that said, by virtue of the air around it having more of it's moisutre absorbed than air further away - it is going to be off by a few points - those with discerning needs should leave it out that spot :)
My 2 cents worth, which is less than two (UK) pennies worth. To test the impact of being surrounded by desiccant you should use two boxes with mounts, one with desiccant and one without desiccant in the same AMS. How closely they read against each other will indicate how the surrounding desiccant changes the reading compared to the actual environment within the AMS - i.e. the desiccant-surrounded hygrometer could have a reading of say 20% or 25%, while the non-desiccant hygrometer was reading 25% (i.e. a 5% or 0% difference due to desiccant). The accuracy of the hygrometer is a hygrometer design and manufacturing matter - i.e. your wall hygrometer reading of 40% could be measuring humidity of 50%. It is probably unrealistic to expect the relatively small desiccant box to lower the humidity of the entire garage (especially if the door is open) to that of the air reaching the hygrometer, however, the small AMS container which isn't letting in lots of fresh humid air could well approach equilibrium before and after the desiccant. Your views please!!
yep, all true, i posted a separate comment about this, in testing it was single digits off, but YMMV, for those who want the most accurate reading, leaving desiccant out of the center spot would be the best course.
Just printed these last week! You should get a funnel or print one for those slimmer boxes, makes filling it up much easier.
Great idea!
I think you could not fill the box with the hygrometer and have a better measure of the humidity
Use the version that's completely cut out behind the hygrometer.
Totally could 👍
I think you're not looking at it in the proper perspective. The hygrometer is meant to gauge when the desiccant needs recharging.
Instead of pouring it out to see if the color has changed you check the meter and if it's above like 25% you should recharge the desiccant in the oven at 120f for 20-40 minutes in something like a pie tray. I also wouldn't suggest just throwing it away, that stuff it's expensive enough as it is.
BTW you should also make the trays for inside the AMS and use the same desiccant in all bays instead of re ordering the BL pouches. If you want your desiccant to last longer dry your filament first and bag the ones you swap out.
So, use a stainless steel korai or similar to dry gel in the oven at 80° to 100°C. No problems at all
You can microwave in a pyrex bowl or jug too - life is shorter but it works
To avoid spilling, I buy in a 2Kg (4.5lb) tub with temoveable top.
I can just dig the container in thete, scoop up beads and put the tlcontainer lid on with the container still inside the tub. No spills at all.
Thanks for the Tip, trying to not run the over during summer. Its just so hot haha. But I will check out the Korai.
You should 3d print a nozzle for the bottle to pour in those....
Thats a good idea haha
I think I will just omit the dessicant from the unit with the hygrometer.
I doubt that works well. The desiccant should be separated from the hygrometer. Also, be careful of those round hygrometers. I bought about 10 cheap ones and they were anywhere from 12% to 20% off. So I recently bought a couple more at a higher price and these were only about 2% to 6% off.
Also 29% seems high though I have never seen white desiccant so maybe that is normal. I use either the blue or orange desiccant and the humidity levels in my sealed dry box is around 10% to 15% and I live in a very humid area. When the humidity gets around 30% I pop the desiccant into the toaster oven at 250 degrees F and let them dry out for a couple of hours.
I place a paper towel in a paper bowl for desiccant drying in the microwave
Nice tip!
PUT THE SCREWS IN, CAUSE IT WILL SPILL OUT IF NOT WHEN YOU GO TO TAKE THEM OUT.. IF YOU DON'T. LESSON (YESTERDAY) LEARNED. Today I am printing a desicant dryer tray for the Sunlu S4. EDIT: wrong file, mine has screw bosses that need to have a screw in.
why not just leave the center case with hydrometer empty for a more accurate reading? should be enough desiccant in there with the others to absorb moisture
Totally Could
Just don’t put the desiccant in the box with the meter. My AMS stays at 10% with 4 of the containers loaded with desiccant.
The whole video I waited to see results of couple days later where you basically made just an ad for this file and no real life results... 😢
what result were you expecting to see?
@@RadDadsPrintLab i did expect you to say there were no better results at the end of video, since you titled it like that. On the other side, you recommend this print and say in same time there are "no benefits" doing that cuz humidity drops down even when not installed. So yea, confusing overall.
Sorry, Basically the readings on the hygrometer is the part I was saying had the issue. The Overall Design still drops the humidity levels downs and works properly.
study how and where it reads humidity levels and get back with us
It makes no difference.