@LostInTech3D you need to use that new TPU and printout new boxes for the Durometers. A hardshell case with interlocked TPU hinges. I'm guessing that this TPU might be slightly better for printing Airless basketballs, especialy if the outerlayers are printed from this TPU and the inner layers are interlocked stiffer material somethink like PBA or even PLA-CF.
Thank you for this video!!! I've been searching for a hard TPU for a long time. I've been using 98A which is okay. It will be so nice to be able to load it in my AMS!
I bought a few rolls of this stuff as soon as it appeared on the Bambu store - I had no idea Orca slicer had already implemented this feature. Will try it out right away!
I forgot that it is 100% true for this channel, so I watched it again with subtitles 😁I probably would watch this channel even if it was about collecting saucers with kitties just for the narration.
ive been working on interlocking pla and tpu using an much older over simplified version. and even though bambu doesnt use this yet. i can add these idead into the design. Amazing.
As a person who is new to the whole 3D printing scene/world, I am amazed at the number of abbreviations and acronyms that are being slung around without any further explanation. Despite Bambu Lab making 3D printing available to the masses, there still is quite the learning curve even for an IT person like myself. Don’t get the me wrong, I like the challenge etc. but for somebody less inclined, some videos are hard to understand due to all the terms that are used to explain/describe things. No hate, just me venting a bit with a smile on my face :-).
I truly sympathize. Every technical field has its own language, generally acronym intensive. It can be difficult to learn the definitions by context. The most efficient solution would probably be a specific beginner's guide video that explicitly defined the terms, with examples so the definitions had meaning. It would be a 30 minute video, but that's better than weeks lost in the woods, searching online to self educate.
Great video. I was slightly confused at the end when you say that interlace is only available in orca then say it’s the first time in history we can do that with Bambu while showing the scrapper. So I am not 100% sure this feature is in the slicer or not. That’s what is confusing. And you show the interlace while playing with the layer slider in Bambu slicer
Also could be a really good option for my old bowden printers. Sure most of my printers are DD these days, but my old enders are so reliable I still use them for stiff materials and they print ABS as well as any printer I own if you enclose them.
I usually very much enjoy your RUclips contributions. What has me perplexed about this video is that you didn’t really spend much time showing the finished prints and how squishy they are and potential use cases for it? I am especially interested in this new product as I’m too lazy to load filament on the external spool. Hope maybe you’ll update the video to include more prints using this material. Keep up the good work and thank you.
This stuff just snaps like PLA out of the printer. Supposedly once printed you have to leave it for a few days or soak it in water for it to become strong like TPU - haven't tried it on my test prints yet though.
Material interlocking seems cool. Other than that, this isn’t the breakthrough I thought it would be. I got a roll last week after I randomly saw it for sale on bambus site and was super excited. When I gave it a try, it might as well be pla. Compared to the 95ahf that I need for what I print, this ain’t gonna cut it. I also think that the AMS is quite useless until Bambu comes out with a multi head printer. Going from a half hour print to over 4.5 hours just becomes too unrealistic.
If you own at least one 3D printer then PRINT A NEW BOX. I printed a parametric rugged latching box while I was at work today, came out beautifully. Found a customizable model on MakerWorld, entered a few dimensions in their OpenSCAD interface, and downloaded me a bespoke model. The point is that printing custom boxes is a solved problem even for those of us who can’t design.
Two things come to mind: 1. In order to use interlocking I presume it's necessary to constantly switch between the two materials which must lead to a huge amount of waste. 2. These new updates to the software needed to use these new materials mean opting NOT to update due to the security issues fiasco is not an option anymore or you don't get the new functionality. (Or can the necessary updates to the slicer be made independently of updating the printer?)
@LostInTech3D thanks, honestly I've still yet to try a complex multicolour print as I don't want more poop than product and I haven't got my head around waste avoidance techniques. I've only had the printer 2 weeks.
i've tried TPU for AMS, and I found it lacking. Hard or not, it doesn't stretch as real TPU and has less layer adhesion, so for example a gopro mount, that I usually would insert the camera too very snug, with this TPU for AMS will just split. For some reason when printing, I also have pile ups in the poop chute, and if I have to abord a print with TPU for AMS loaded, it doesn't unloead by using the unload button.
How funny, was literally just looking at Bambu's site for filament and saw this. Suppose I'll toss a roll into my next order, especially knowing about the material splicing option now.
I just have a printed spool holder and splitter on the side. So when im not printing out of the 4 AMS units, I run it off the spool. TPU doesnt stick to anything anyway, so you will only be running 1. Same when I run PPA,PPS or PA6 carbon fibers.
This AMS TPU absolutely ADORES the textured build plate, and also the outside of my hardened steel nozzle. It seems to have eventually purged though, so all is good.
I wonder if it's a foaming agent like varioshore? (calcium carbonate, aka baking soda) You should try different temperature ranges and see if it swells more. 68D would be something like 104A-ish, but the scale doesn't go past 100.
@@LostInTech3D I think you are right, likely something else. Maybe test layer bonding with PLA and PETG and see if there is suddenly a bias in which it adheres to vs normal TPU. I am leaning towards PETG as a guess.
@@MagnificentUsernameGuy I don't see him having any such video, since it was just recently released it would have to be a recent video and I don't see any such. Would be surprising if he did since he is a bambu hater.
@@atnfn I'm sorry, that was me poking fun at Lost in Tech suggesting that Nathan was the real "King" of TPU. Nathan being sent to Coventry by Bambu was a bit of the reason I chose him as part of the joke. 😊
Looks like they are using a foaming agent like VarioShore filament. It keeps the material rigid until it heats to a certain temperature and then foams up and makes the material softer based on temperature.
Well that answers my question "can I use PLA for support interface?". Have to say, unless it's printed pretty thin the flexibility isn't that noticeable, but it's never going to go throught the AMS if it's much softer. I can print much softer TPU in direct feed, I just can't use other material support without some hacking.
Probably works well with other color systems, like the MMU3. This might be the first Bambu product I buy. I've been looking for a stiffer TPU anyways, and having it compatible with multi-color printing would be a plus.
I wanted to use it as a support materrial with PLA specifically because they won't join. The PLA won't melt the already laid down TPU. I get my X1CC Saturday to test that theory.
This idea of making filament softer by using additives that expand after leaving the nozzle is so old by now. Glad they've finally adapted it to make TPU work in AMS tho, that's awesome
Seeing the interlocking again made me wonder: what is the current state of Arc overhangs? Are they anywhere near being able to use productively already?
Big Tree Tech/BIQU has already shown an AMS compatible TPU before, their version was explained to be co-extruded, with a TPU core and a more rigid and lower friction material on the shell. Bambu is probably doing the same thing here, hence why the "printed filament" feels softer, the material is no longer on a core/shell matrix, it becomes more like fibers.
@@LostInTech3D For some odd reason my first reply didn't go through, but here it goes: They showed it at RMRRF this year, you can check it out on the coverage from some other channels, like Taylor's(Cannuck Creator/Nero3D). It's right around 11:45 on his video for the BTT booth coverage. They called it nTPU, but contrary to what I said on my original comment, they did not mention it's co-extruded and it works completely different from what you would expect. Sorry for my blunder, do not know why it happened.
@@LostInTech3Dlast I checked they had a "coming soon" placeholder. Voxel PLA has made their own AMS compatible TPU but from what I recall it was more of a blend of PVA & TPU, where the PVA helped stiffen the part until you could soak it in water after printing
Filament in development vs filament in my hands are two different things. Super hard TPU isn't new -- but the base material has been stupid expensive. I had a couple rolls from Keene Village Plastics (what happened to those guys??) it was 70D and about $75 a spool. This stuff from Bambu is $35 for 1KG.
I'd be interested in a redo of this video with more prints completed, and tests/commentary on the flexibility and softness at different wall thicknesses and infills.
I'd like to see some true multicolor TPU/TPU prints, and see how hard the TPU is. I print drone parts in 95A all day, seen 98A Priline that was way too hard to flex around a GoPro, worked great for skidz tho... I'm curious if this filament is flexible enough for normal TPU use (98A was not).
Dude, that 98A Priline is a great filament for extreme durability and "some flex" parts. I've made a few RC car bodies with it and it's an amazing filament. Haven't come across too many other people who use it.
@@Fly_High_FPV I figured it had to be. It has a harder shore hardness than 98A. But, I'm gonna keep the Bambu in mind for RC car bodies for the durability.
automatic interlocking the slicer is really nice, but it wasn't impossible before, it could be manually modeled in, just like you have to when you're printing separate parts
So the flowrate is different and the material on the spool is harder than the printed one. Sounds somehow simular to VarioShore, but without the variable adjustmet at different temperatures.
Ah, those boxes... Wouldn't it be amazing if there was a machine to, I don't know, fabricate replacements? Maybe something one could keep at home? You should look into that!
A cheap handheld durometer might not be calibrated correctly for this kind of testing. There is also the issue of Bambu's data sheet for the material, which if I'm reading it correctly, does not seem to specify which standard method they used (if any) to arrive at the 68D figure.
I still have a spool of non-ams TPU from Bambu that I haven't gotten around to using even once because this stuff scares me haha. I still can't imagine how it can actually print with a wet noodle.
In a previous video you mentioned that you got the 83A eSun eLastic TPE working on your P1S/P1P. Would you mind sharing your settings for that? Ive had a lot of trouble getting that specific filament to work on my P1S.
I'm slowly sharing the profiles from that video on patreon, but - there's not a lot of complicated adjustments to make - the standard flex setting should work BUT making sure to unreel it from the spool because it adds a ton of friction due to the angles and how it likes to grip to the reel because it's "rubber" wound round "rubber".
Does drying this filament in a filament dryer affect the properties of this filament in any way? I'm quite new to this domain and I recently ordered a roll of TPU for AMS. I've never printed with anything other than PLA, but I've heard that it is necessary to dry TPU right out of the box, so I also ordered a Sunlu S2 filament dryer. Now I wonder whether the dryer will affect this new type of TPU.
generally I dont find a need to dry TPU when new, but I did receive some eSun recently that definitely needed drying. It's obvious, in fact. See the bubbles in the orange sample I did a slow motion of? It's slightly wet. When it's extremely wet it's like that x 100
Printing TPU was a nightamire in the past. A lot of trial and error. Hope this new type of TPU can make things work easier. Would like to see if you can show us more results with this TPU. Thanks.
Oh, and I got only 2 spools from them. I hope you don't mind, professional deformation of teacher: Stiffness is different from hardness. Hardness is the resistance of the material to the penetration. The Shore scale is for hardness. Feel free, to delete this message after reading or feel free to correct me and my English🙂
You don't need any "special kind of tpu" for AMS. Simply insert anything harder than 40D and you will be just fine. I am printing with regular cheap 50D TPU since months (cheated as PETG for AMS) and never had any issue with it. Cool they finally unlocked it and there is Generic TPU for AMS selection now, no more cheating required.
there is a checkbox in orca to enable it, i cant remember the exact setting but it came up with a google of the error you get when trying to print. if you are updated on orca you shouldnt need to lie to it anymore.
@@TMS5100 i live in poland so i usually choose local manufacturers like DevilDesign, Rosa3D or Fiberlogy. DevilDesign makes 55D TPU (just google it). The Bambu TPU for AMS is not that expensive so ill probably switch to bambu now. Just saying it was possible since day 1 of AMS existence :D
This is exactly the reason I bought this AMS TPU first day it came out. I needed chair gliders with bottoms in PETG and tops in TPU because they have tiny pins to snap into chair bottoms which kept braking when the whole thing was printed in PETG. Now the top part of the gliders with pins is TPU for AMS and the gliding bottom parts are in PETG (Overture black). Used AMS to print them and they merged perfectly! I will be now playing more with this feature for sure!
I got a roll and it has absolutely horrible layer adhesion. Like worse than silk PLA. The whole draw for me was super tough parts with good adhesion and it's abysmal. You didn't have any issues with this?
You want to know something really weird about this stuff? I do a lot of impact testing for fun. I'm weird like that. But this filament 1. doesn't flex on impact as much as normal TPU - it actually breaks on sudden impact and 2. is the first filament I've ever tested that broke ACROSS layer lines with a vertically printed test object. Oh, and the difference in flexibility is markedly different between the X, Y, and Z orientations. This can be a good thing because, while the hardness is likely the same/similar between the directions, you can "tune" the flexibility for your application if you use your noggin. This stuff bridges well. Oddly well for its flexibility. Meaning you actually can pull off printing in those different orientations to "tune" the flex. But it gets soft at high temperatures. More testing to follow. You aren't the only one taking a close look at this interesting little filament, Mr. Narrator Guy
Been playing around with it a bit, and it doesn't really have TPU properties imho. Bad layer adhesion and brittle. I was hoping to be able to use this as gaskets infused in parts, but it doesn't seem work at all.
This is why i have wanted just an idex printer... not necessarily a tool charger in a traditional sense or a ams (although an ams on an idex would get wild but im leaning towards the armor turtle system as an ams)
I had some TPU for AMS about 6 months ago from another company. It was cool, but if you bent it too far, it would "crease" and eventually break. You could see the bends. Does this do that as well? This unlocks an entirely new area for some products I've always wanted to try
after printing? it definitely has lower layer adhesion presumably due to the additive. Before printing on the reel, no issues, no. What was the company?
Now I understand why TPU didn't want to work with AMS, my Bambulab A1 was making weird noises, like the motor want to break, so I bought TPU from other 4 companies and the same thing not working, I didn't know that AMS doesn't work with TPU till now, so can Bambulab A1 print TPU if I don't use AMS? OR because of the density as you explained it won't work at all unless it is made by bambu for ams
I am better the additive is petg it is put into all sort of materials to "improve" printability. It would make sense with it being a little stiffer and not having the layer adhesion you would expect from TPU
I havent finished this video yet, but doesn't normal 95a work perfectly fine in the AMS already? I had to check a box to get it to work but still. I have also been using 64d with zero issues.
i wish they sold more tpu in smaller quantities. I dont want to spend 30$ on 1kg when i just want to print a few things in tpu and have to choose 1 durometer. a sample pack of 3 different durometers 330g each for 30-35 $ would be perfect
Meh. I just want to print kids toys in TPU with multicolor. ;) For multi-material, I'd like to print frames in Nylon or PET, but with PLA inlays for colorful grips. I previously tried TPU in the AMS,... basically, the "hub" on the back of the printer uses the binding of the filament to detect when to send more from the AMS. But regular TPU actually binds up in the AMS first, so you get a jam,....and break stuff trying to unjam it. Had to replace a feeder. Really enjoyed the video style.
"for the first time, we can print X with a rubbery bit and a solid bit!" Me who has been printing tpu pieces to insert into solid prints mid-print this whole time: am I a joke to you?
Wait, why couldn't you do this on the Prusa XL? That's one of the main benefits of multi toolhead. Edit: Ah because you could only use Prusa Slicer. Orca now supports the Prusa XL properly as of V2.2.0 Beta.
I have printed TPU several times with my AMS and the P1S, the TBU "Flex Hard" from the Austrian company "EXTRUDR" works without any problems. It has a Shore hardness of 58D.
When we can't explain things in 3D printing we tram the bed and dry the filament.
and fasten the hotend screws
No we don´t....
and roll back the firmware update.
and dial the temp up
@@JohnDoe-ot5ir Why bambu did that with scarf seams?
My main take away from this video is you struggle with those annoying boxes.
Fair
It does tend to happen when you don't take the tape off them!
I'm pretty sure the tape thing was just rage bait 😉
@LostInTech3D you need to use that new TPU and printout new boxes for the Durometers. A hardshell case with interlocked TPU hinges. I'm guessing that this TPU might be slightly better for printing Airless basketballs, especialy if the outerlayers are printed from this TPU and the inner layers are interlocked stiffer material somethink like PBA or even PLA-CF.
And is mocked by squirrels for that ;)
Thank you for this video!!!
I've been searching for a hard TPU for a long time. I've been using 98A which is okay. It will be so nice to be able to load it in my AMS!
I bought a few rolls of this stuff as soon as it appeared on the Bambu store - I had no idea Orca slicer had already implemented this feature. Will try it out right away!
Was there a prusaslicer feature request somewhere?
Here’s a thought: 3D print a easier to open box for your meter.
Or he could just remove the tape 😛
Beat me to it!
No he should order them at PCBWay
good plan :)
Gridfinity
I just got some of the TPU for AMS, which I used to print the gasket for my AMS Riser. It was my first time printing with TPU, and it worked great.
The subtitles have to be enabled to fully experience this channel in all its glory.
I forgot that it is 100% true for this channel, so I watched it again with subtitles 😁I probably would watch this channel even if it was about collecting saucers with kitties just for the narration.
I never knew that. That was excellent. Thank you!
@@chris993361 My pleasure, the subtitles here are gold that should be enjoyed by all.
the joy of your subtitle easter jokes. make your videos so much more fun than they already are
WHAT THE WAT! This is amazing and who knows how long it would have taken me to find out about it otherwise-thank you!
ive been working on interlocking pla and tpu using an much older over simplified version. and even though bambu doesnt use this yet. i can add these idead into the design. Amazing.
As a person who is new to the whole 3D printing scene/world, I am amazed at the number of abbreviations and acronyms that are being slung around without any further explanation. Despite Bambu Lab making 3D printing available to the masses, there still is quite the learning curve even for an IT person like myself. Don’t get the me wrong, I like the challenge etc. but for somebody less inclined, some videos are hard to understand due to all the terms that are used to explain/describe things. No hate, just me venting a bit with a smile on my face :-).
no, I get that, I explain when I remember...which is sadly rarely :)
It's called a curse of knowledge (yes that's the actual name). It's a bias teachers struggle with.
I truly sympathize. Every technical field has its own language, generally acronym intensive. It can be difficult to learn the definitions by context. The most efficient solution would probably be a specific beginner's guide video that explicitly defined the terms, with examples so the definitions had meaning. It would be a 30 minute video, but that's better than weeks lost in the woods, searching online to self educate.
Great video. I was slightly confused at the end when you say that interlace is only available in orca then say it’s the first time in history we can do that with Bambu while showing the scrapper. So I am not 100% sure this feature is in the slicer or not. That’s what is confusing. And you show the interlace while playing with the layer slider in Bambu slicer
The material interlocking is great, i never heard of this before. Fits perfect to the New AMS TPU Great Video 👍
Now we just need a clear version for letting more LED light through ex. for electronics enclosure buttons
Also could be a really good option for my old bowden printers. Sure most of my printers are DD these days, but my old enders are so reliable I still use them for stiff materials and they print ABS as well as any printer I own if you enclose them.
yeah it will work well on a bowden
I usually very much enjoy your RUclips contributions. What has me perplexed about this video is that you didn’t really spend much time showing the finished prints and how squishy they are and potential use cases for it? I am especially interested in this new product as I’m too lazy to load filament on the external spool. Hope maybe you’ll update the video to include more prints using this material. Keep up the good work and thank you.
I got 2 spools too. it works very great! love this stuff! Its not very bouncy or flexible once printed, but it looks tough!!
Even though it's stiffer, I think what a lot of people are looking for in TPU is durability. Could we test this versus more common 90-95A TPUs?
Ask Igor on "My Tech Fun". :)
This stuff just snaps like PLA out of the printer. Supposedly once printed you have to leave it for a few days or soak it in water for it to become strong like TPU - haven't tried it on my test prints yet though.
Massive question!
I made a door stopper 'finger' out of it. Pretty sure it could be used as a rubber bullet.
Material interlocking seems cool. Other than that, this isn’t the breakthrough I thought it would be. I got a roll last week after I randomly saw it for sale on bambus site and was super excited. When I gave it a try, it might as well be pla. Compared to the 95ahf that I need for what I print, this ain’t gonna cut it. I also think that the AMS is quite useless until Bambu comes out with a multi head printer. Going from a half hour print to over 4.5 hours just becomes too unrealistic.
2:04 bro you own so many 3d printers PRINT A NEW BOX
If you own at least one 3D printer then PRINT A NEW BOX. I printed a parametric rugged latching box while I was at work today, came out beautifully. Found a customizable model on MakerWorld, entered a few dimensions in their OpenSCAD interface, and downloaded me a bespoke model.
The point is that printing custom boxes is a solved problem even for those of us who can’t design.
Or take the tape off
Two things come to mind: 1. In order to use interlocking I presume it's necessary to constantly switch between the two materials which must lead to a huge amount of waste. 2. These new updates to the software needed to use these new materials mean opting NOT to update due to the security issues fiasco is not an option anymore or you don't get the new functionality. (Or can the necessary updates to the slicer be made independently of updating the printer?)
1. No actually, one change per 2 layers whether you interlock or not.
2. Yes quite.
@LostInTech3D thanks, honestly I've still yet to try a complex multicolour print as I don't want more poop than product and I haven't got my head around waste avoidance techniques. I've only had the printer 2 weeks.
i've tried TPU for AMS, and I found it lacking. Hard or not, it doesn't stretch as real TPU and has less layer adhesion, so for example a gopro mount, that I usually would insert the camera too very snug, with this TPU for AMS will just split. For some reason when printing, I also have pile ups in the poop chute, and if I have to abord a print with TPU for AMS loaded, it doesn't unloead by using the unload button.
The additive that makes it stiffer prior to melting in the hot end evaporates out when heated.
How funny, was literally just looking at Bambu's site for filament and saw this. Suppose I'll toss a roll into my next order, especially knowing about the material splicing option now.
I just have a printed spool holder and splitter on the side. So when im not printing out of the 4 AMS units, I run it off the spool. TPU doesnt stick to anything anyway, so you will only be running 1. Same when I run PPA,PPS or PA6 carbon fibers.
This AMS TPU absolutely ADORES the textured build plate, and also the outside of my hardened steel nozzle. It seems to have eventually purged though, so all is good.
This is why I used glue stick 😁
Im so glad orca slicer has that interlocking feature. i have been waiting to put rubber grips on stuff
what inter locking feature is that?? im not familiar with orca
I wonder if it's a foaming agent like varioshore? (calcium carbonate, aka baking soda) You should try different temperature ranges and see if it swells more. 68D would be something like 104A-ish, but the scale doesn't go past 100.
I sorta dont think it is, it looks different, but it's some kinda agent for sure
@@LostInTech3D I think you are right, likely something else. Maybe test layer bonding with PLA and PETG and see if there is suddenly a bias in which it adheres to vs normal TPU. I am leaning towards PETG as a guess.
@@LostInTech3Dsecret agent? Special agent?
Was waiting anxiously for someone to review this, and was FLABBERGASTED when no one other than the TPU king did it
Wait! Nathan Builds Robots did a video on it too?! 😏
@@MagnificentUsernameGuy I don't see him having any such video, since it was just recently released it would have to be a recent video and I don't see any such. Would be surprising if he did since he is a bambu hater.
@@atnfn I'm sorry, that was me poking fun at Lost in Tech suggesting that Nathan was the real "King" of TPU. Nathan being sent to Coventry by Bambu was a bit of the reason I chose him as part of the joke. 😊
Looks like they are using a foaming agent like VarioShore filament. It keeps the material rigid until it heats to a certain temperature and then foams up and makes the material softer based on temperature.
Just a thought....you could print new boxes for the durometers
Well that answers my question "can I use PLA for support interface?". Have to say, unless it's printed pretty thin the flexibility isn't that noticeable, but it's never going to go throught the AMS if it's much softer. I can print much softer TPU in direct feed, I just can't use other material support without some hacking.
Probably works well with other color systems, like the MMU3. This might be the first Bambu product I buy. I've been looking for a stiffer TPU anyways, and having it compatible with multi-color printing would be a plus.
Fantastic, a proper scraper
I wanted to use it as a support materrial with PLA specifically because they won't join. The PLA won't melt the already laid down TPU. I get my X1CC Saturday to test that theory.
This idea of making filament softer by using additives that expand after leaving the nozzle is so old by now. Glad they've finally adapted it to make TPU work in AMS tho, that's awesome
I choked on my coffee at 3:40. Thanks for that. 🤣
Seeing the interlocking again made me wonder: what is the current state of Arc overhangs? Are they anywhere near being able to use productively already?
Great video! I shall go order some right now. Thanks! Squirrels!
Big Tree Tech/BIQU has already shown an AMS compatible TPU before, their version was explained to be co-extruded, with a TPU core and a more rigid and lower friction material on the shell.
Bambu is probably doing the same thing here, hence why the "printed filament" feels softer, the material is no longer on a core/shell matrix, it becomes more like fibers.
Ummm 🤔 when?
@@LostInTech3D For some odd reason my first reply didn't go through, but here it goes:
They showed it at RMRRF this year, you can check it out on the coverage from some other channels, like Taylor's(Cannuck Creator/Nero3D). It's right around 11:45 on his video for the BTT booth coverage. They called it nTPU, but contrary to what I said on my original comment, they did not mention it's co-extruded and it works completely different from what you would expect. Sorry for my blunder, do not know why it happened.
It's not on sale thought, right?
@@LostInTech3Dlast I checked they had a "coming soon" placeholder. Voxel PLA has made their own AMS compatible TPU but from what I recall it was more of a blend of PVA & TPU, where the PVA helped stiffen the part until you could soak it in water after printing
Filament in development vs filament in my hands are two different things. Super hard TPU isn't new -- but the base material has been stupid expensive. I had a couple rolls from Keene Village Plastics (what happened to those guys??) it was 70D and about $75 a spool. This stuff from Bambu is $35 for 1KG.
I'd be interested in a redo of this video with more prints completed, and tests/commentary on the flexibility and softness at different wall thicknesses and infills.
I'd like to see some true multicolor TPU/TPU prints, and see how hard the TPU is. I print drone parts in 95A all day, seen 98A Priline that was way too hard to flex around a GoPro, worked great for skidz tho... I'm curious if this filament is flexible enough for normal TPU use (98A was not).
Dude, that 98A Priline is a great filament for extreme durability and "some flex" parts. I've made a few RC car bodies with it and it's an amazing filament. Haven't come across too many other people who use it.
@rcautoball ok, a fellow drone pilot just confirmed that the new bambu TPu for AMS is TOO hard for a gopro case 😪
@@Fly_High_FPV I figured it had to be. It has a harder shore hardness than 98A. But, I'm gonna keep the Bambu in mind for RC car bodies for the durability.
automatic interlocking the slicer is really nice, but it wasn't impossible before, it could be manually modeled in, just like you have to when you're printing separate parts
Does the filament perhaps have a hard outer "additive" shell which 'alloys' with TPU in the hotend?
microscope time maybe!
I must ask- have you considered printing a less annoying box for the durometers?
So the flowrate is different and the material on the spool is harder than the printed one. Sounds somehow simular to VarioShore, but without the variable adjustmet at different temperatures.
Ah, those boxes... Wouldn't it be amazing if there was a machine to, I don't know, fabricate replacements?
Maybe something one could keep at home? You should look into that!
Sounds cool will do 👍😅
Or just cut the tape on the side
A cheap handheld durometer might not be calibrated correctly for this kind of testing. There is also the issue of Bambu's data sheet for the material, which if I'm reading it correctly, does not seem to specify which standard method they used (if any) to arrive at the 68D figure.
These cheap durometers are generally fine
When you 3D print storage boxes for your durometers, you can now design them in OrcaSlicer with print-in-place TPU gaskets so they're waterproof.
The additive is likely to stiffen the filament up so it feeds in the AMS, but it breaks down when melted. Pretty clever.
I had to buy mine, but the TPU for AMS is pretty nifty. I will have a video up soon.
The close captions are amazing
5:50 that was clever show the audience something interesting in silence and have the explanation after the ad read. Tastefully done ✅
ive been running a certain type of tpu in my ams lite for ages. only about $25 aud a kilo aswell.
Fine, keep your secrets.
@@MagnificentUsernameGuy sunlu tpu silk
Where from? I am in AU too.
@@SIMUVERSEAU Cheers Bruce! 😏
I was able to get my AMS Lite to work with 95A Overture TPU after a lot of trial and error.
Hmmm wonder if it's anygood for an airless basketball ?
It's not, too brittle
Good news thanks 😊😊😊
Video was too short.. need more squish. I'm also excited never thought I'd be excited by how hard tpu is for a printer I don't even own 😂
It feels more like plastic than flexible plastic, just ductile over the whole part but local areas seem very rigid
I still have a spool of non-ams TPU from Bambu that I haven't gotten around to using even once because this stuff scares me haha. I still can't imagine how it can actually print with a wet noodle.
In a previous video you mentioned that you got the 83A eSun eLastic TPE working on your P1S/P1P. Would you mind sharing your settings for that? Ive had a lot of trouble getting that specific filament to work on my P1S.
I'm slowly sharing the profiles from that video on patreon, but - there's not a lot of complicated adjustments to make - the standard flex setting should work BUT making sure to unreel it from the spool because it adds a ton of friction due to the angles and how it likes to grip to the reel because it's "rubber" wound round "rubber".
Does drying this filament in a filament dryer affect the properties of this filament in any way? I'm quite new to this domain and I recently ordered a roll of TPU for AMS. I've never printed with anything other than PLA, but I've heard that it is necessary to dry TPU right out of the box, so I also ordered a Sunlu S2 filament dryer. Now I wonder whether the dryer will affect this new type of TPU.
generally I dont find a need to dry TPU when new, but I did receive some eSun recently that definitely needed drying. It's obvious, in fact. See the bubbles in the orange sample I did a slow motion of? It's slightly wet. When it's extremely wet it's like that x 100
I wonder if it will also work on other multi material systems like Anker and the upcoming Qidi box
Printing TPU was a nightamire in the past. A lot of trial and error. Hope this new type of TPU can make things work easier. Would like to see if you can show us more results with this TPU. Thanks.
But it is easier already, and for a while now. Have you watched two of his recent videos about TPU yet?
@@TechieSewing Not yet. I may. Thank you.
Oh yeah there's quite a back catalogue now, enjoy 😁
There an example profile floating out there for TPU without AMS that prints like a dream. Search on printables for user Florian greco
So i just got a Kobra 3 with the ACE pro, and eveyone has the same issue with TPU with the ACE as the AMS, i wonder how well this will work with ACE.
Since this doesn't seem to stick well to PLA perhaps you could use it as support interface material as well.
You could.... depending on whether you like the price
Oh, and I got only 2 spools from them. I hope you don't mind, professional deformation of teacher: Stiffness is different from hardness. Hardness is the resistance of the material to the penetration. The Shore scale is for hardness. Feel free, to delete this message after reading or feel free to correct me and my English🙂
I see teachers are only elastic in one direction then ;)
Does it work in other companies AMS systems? like Prusa's or Creality's upcoming one?
don't see why not
You don't need any "special kind of tpu" for AMS. Simply insert anything harder than 40D and you will be just fine.
I am printing with regular cheap 50D TPU since months (cheated as PETG for AMS) and never had any issue with it.
Cool they finally unlocked it and there is Generic TPU for AMS selection now, no more cheating required.
where did you find 50D tpu filament?
was wondering the same
there is a checkbox in orca to enable it, i cant remember the exact setting but it came up with a google of the error you get when trying to print. if you are updated on orca you shouldnt need to lie to it anymore.
@@TMS5100 i live in poland so i usually choose local manufacturers like DevilDesign, Rosa3D or Fiberlogy. DevilDesign makes 55D TPU (just google it).
The Bambu TPU for AMS is not that expensive so ill probably switch to bambu now. Just saying it was possible since day 1 of AMS existence :D
@@LostInTech3D DevilDesign TPU 50D, my previous comment was deleted for some reason.
Haven't tried it myself yet, but I've seen some videos in the past where PETG and TPU sticked pretty well together. Much better than PLA and TPU.
This is exactly the reason I bought this AMS TPU first day it came out. I needed chair gliders with bottoms in PETG and tops in TPU because they have tiny pins to snap into chair bottoms which kept braking when the whole thing was printed in PETG. Now the top part of the gliders with pins is TPU for AMS and the gliding bottom parts are in PETG (Overture black). Used AMS to print them and they merged perfectly! I will be now playing more with this feature for sure!
Yeah that's awesome even though it's not super soft it's still awesome
Custom ink stamps is something i am very interested in!
I got a roll and it has absolutely horrible layer adhesion. Like worse than silk PLA. The whole draw for me was super tough parts with good adhesion and it's abysmal. You didn't have any issues with this?
not with layer adhesion no, but it is somewhat brittle
You want to know something really weird about this stuff? I do a lot of impact testing for fun. I'm weird like that. But this filament 1. doesn't flex on impact as much as normal TPU - it actually breaks on sudden impact and 2. is the first filament I've ever tested that broke ACROSS layer lines with a vertically printed test object.
Oh, and the difference in flexibility is markedly different between the X, Y, and Z orientations. This can be a good thing because, while the hardness is likely the same/similar between the directions, you can "tune" the flexibility for your application if you use your noggin.
This stuff bridges well. Oddly well for its flexibility. Meaning you actually can pull off printing in those different orientations to "tune" the flex.
But it gets soft at high temperatures.
More testing to follow. You aren't the only one taking a close look at this interesting little filament, Mr. Narrator Guy
I've since noticed it's tendency to snap like silk pla. Which makes me more convinced it has additives similar to silk pla 🤔
@ everyone says they put TPU in PLA to make silk so… my God. They’ve added TPU to TPU.
Been playing around with it a bit, and it doesn't really have TPU properties imho. Bad layer adhesion and brittle. I was hoping to be able to use this as gaskets infused in parts, but it doesn't seem work at all.
it does seem brittle yes, a bit disappointing.
This is why i have wanted just an idex printer... not necessarily a tool charger in a traditional sense or a ams (although an ams on an idex would get wild but im leaning towards the armor turtle system as an ams)
I had some TPU for AMS about 6 months ago from another company. It was cool, but if you bent it too far, it would "crease" and eventually break. You could see the bends.
Does this do that as well? This unlocks an entirely new area for some products I've always wanted to try
after printing? it definitely has lower layer adhesion presumably due to the additive. Before printing on the reel, no issues, no. What was the company?
@@LostInTech3DZlabs in Georgia, USA.
Can you crease the parts without showing the line?
those indents on the red box, push those in with your thumbs, it should open easier.
Now I understand why TPU didn't want to work with AMS, my Bambulab A1 was making weird noises, like the motor want to break, so I bought TPU from other 4 companies and the same thing not working, I didn't know that AMS doesn't work with TPU till now, so can Bambulab A1 print TPU if I don't use AMS? OR because of the density as you explained it won't work at all unless it is made by bambu for ams
see my last 2 videos on TPU, you'll get the info you need :)
I was literally searching for shore hardness close to 70D.
TPU at that shore hardness is basically indestructible lol
Brilliant!
I am better the additive is petg it is put into all sort of materials to
"improve" printability. It would make sense with it being a little stiffer and not having the layer adhesion you would expect from TPU
I havent finished this video yet, but doesn't normal 95a work perfectly fine in the AMS already? I had to check a box to get it to work but still. I have also been using 64d with zero issues.
Stamps are back!
What are the diagonal lines for?
That's the interlocking!
"We are smart" - Pakleds
i wish they sold more tpu in smaller quantities. I dont want to spend 30$ on 1kg when i just want to print a few things in tpu and have to choose 1 durometer. a sample pack of 3 different durometers 330g each for 30-35 $ would be perfect
Aliexpress sells 500g and 250g, but usually it's all 95A.
Meh. I just want to print kids toys in TPU with multicolor. ;) For multi-material, I'd like to print frames in Nylon or PET, but with PLA inlays for colorful grips.
I previously tried TPU in the AMS,... basically, the "hub" on the back of the printer uses the binding of the filament to detect when to send more from the AMS. But regular TPU actually binds up in the AMS first, so you get a jam,....and break stuff trying to unjam it. Had to replace a feeder.
Really enjoyed the video style.
Slant3d tapped how hard tpu would be a fantastic filament but no one made it. Wonder if someone sells a harder tpu 🤔
That is an important feature they should implement it right away
ITS TPU AGAIN, YAAAAAAAYYY
ITS THE BOX AGAIN WOHOOOOO
TWOOOO BOXES??? WHAT IS GOING ON
New to this. But would like to use the interlocker slicer for my bambu P1S
But you said you can’t use bambu studio. So how do we do it?
orca slicer. Though by the time I write this, it might even be in bambu slicer
"for the first time, we can print X with a rubbery bit and a solid bit!"
Me who has been printing tpu pieces to insert into solid prints mid-print this whole time: am I a joke to you?
3:00 that extruder finally grew a pair...🎉
Does it have the typical characteristics like other TPUs (bad with moisture, foaming, etc), or is there something more than AMS compatible?
no, it comes in foil and tells you to dry before use, so it's likely more hydroscopic than usual
Is it grippy? I was thinking about putting this as the bottom couple layers of a coaster. I don’t want the coaster to slide.
Not especially grippy no, kinda shiny
@ hmm okay. Well I order some for that purpose before I saw your video. I guess I will find out. Thanks for the info.
Wait, why couldn't you do this on the Prusa XL? That's one of the main benefits of multi toolhead.
Edit: Ah because you could only use Prusa Slicer. Orca now supports the Prusa XL properly as of V2.2.0 Beta.
I couldn't use interlocking. Apparently though orca now supports the XL 👍
I was dying watching u try to open the box and knowing there was still tape 😭
Huh. Maybe it's like varioshore tpu? Impregnated with sodium bicarbonate to intentionally foam it up, softening it when heated?
I have printed TPU several times with my AMS and the P1S, the TBU "Flex Hard" from the Austrian company "EXTRUDR" works without any problems.
It has a Shore hardness of 58D.
Well, if I remember correctly you can print TPU with AMS and even Bambu states so. You just can't go below a certain softness
I purchased this last week but haven’t tried it yet