GAME CHANGING Bambu X-1 Upgrades! - Hydra AMS & More!
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2024
- The Bambu Lab X-1 Carbon 3D printer is an industry changing machine, but it isn't perfect. In this video we will 3D print upgrades for the Bambu X-1 such as the Hydra AMS, Y-Splitter, and more mods! Is the Hydra AMS the perfect upgrade for the Bambu X-1? Maybe an LED light riser for the glass top? So many options for excellent 3d printed upgrades that fit the Bambu X-1 Carbon.
Patreon Page: / mandicreally
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Print Designs Featured:
*** AMS Disconnect Tool: tinyurl.com/AMSDisconnect
*** Hydra AMS: tinyurl.com/HydraAMS
*** My One Piece LED Riser: tinyurl.com/OnePieceBambu
*** Multi-Piece LED Riser: tinyurl.com/LEDRiser
*** Desiccant Hubs: tinyurl.com/DesiccantHubs
*** Bambu Storage Box: tinyurl.com/BambuBox
*** Y-Splitter: tinyurl.com/OverEngineeredY
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Parts Used (Affiliate Links):
*** Bambu Lab X1: tinyurl.com/BambuX1Carbon
*** Electric Screwdriver: amzn.to/3ZEPtgn
*** M3x20 Screws: amzn.to/3ZHtw0f
*** Desiccant: amzn.to/429b5Do
*** LED Strip: amzn.to/3Lkx83N
*** Y Splitter Collets: amzn.to/3LhgLVD
*** Polymaker Filament: tinyurl.com/Polymakerr
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Please consider supporting by checking out my various links:
www.mandicreally.com/links
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Filmed with (Affiliate Links):
*** Main Camera: bhpho.to/3RStTnz
*** Main Lens: bhpho.to/3FhSfjc
*** Video Recorder Monitor: bhpho.to/3RW0Yii
*** Action Camera: bhpho.to/45CS10Q
*** Wide Angle Lens: bhpho.to/3RXQXBj
*** Slider: bhpho.to/3ZRRIhi
*** Studio Microphone: bhpho.to/3PUL3yb
*** Voiceover Microphone: bhpho.to/46uECsE
*** Monopod: bhpho.to/3PT2yir
*** Tripod: bhpho.to/3PSKXY4
*** Primary Lighting: bhpho.to/3RXSmb3
*** Additional Lighting: bhpho.to/3RXVfsf
*** RGB Lights: bhpho.to/46S6VBn
*** Drone: bhpho.to/476GGr1
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The opinions expressed in this video are my own, from my personal experience. This is not a paid product advertisement. Please feel free to let me know what you think of this tool, or suggest alternatives I should check out. Disclaimer: This is not a paid advertisement. This video is solely my opinions from the use of these products and based on the specifications of them. Some of the links provided are AMAZON AFFILIATE LINKS or others. Affiliate links give the MandicReally a small advertising fee for every purchase made via those links. This does not cost you anything more than if you purchased them normally.
Timestamps:
0:00 - Intro
0:54 - AMS Disconnect
2:02 - LED Riser
5:36 - HYDRA AMS
10:15 - Y-Splitter
11:44 - Glass Insulating
13:47 - Desiccant Hubs
15:40 - Spool Fitment w/ Hydra AMS
17:32 - Bambu Storage Box
18:47 - Final Temps
20:14 - Final Results
21:12 - Outro
#3dprinter #3dprinting #mandicreally 
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Ohhh my gosh, this is such a cool feeling. I'm the original creator of that specific led (low profile) riser. That's so cool that someone "more or less social media and video content famous" has printed it out. Never would have thought the day would come. This is awesome 💪💪💪💪
you made it fam, theres hope for all of us
A great product and hard work will ALWAYS be recognized. Good for you and great job on the design!
It is a great mod to the printer! Do you or anyone else make it available for sale? I will only have the X1C when it arrives later this week, and it’s not big enough to print it. I’d gladly buy one if someone has the available. Thanks, and thanks for great content!
@briencrotty2322 no, I posted it for free. Also, I broke it down small enough that you can print it on your bambu in 4 pieces and glue them together! (=
@@danielsmeltz Ah, thanks! I'll give that a shot once my machine comes in. Love the mod you did, particularly with the insulation. This is my first 3D printer, so I'm excited to start using it.
15:28 Tip from someone who works with dessicants; only fill round rolling containers about 50 to 60%. It allows more surface area to contact moisture.
Hey that was a great review and thanks for the kind words on my designs :)
Thanks for putting your designs out there. Bravo again 👏🏻
Of the people I found on TikTok that told me to come over to their RUclips this is the only person I actually watch. Alway top notch content!
Same
Much appreciated. I wish I could get the other 600,000 people to realize this, haaaa.
@@MandicReally they are all bots
Yes, please do a video on the manually calibration for the X1C.
Hey. Thanks for showing my Bambu Tool box as a Must have, makes me a little proud 😉 I had no extruder to make a place for it. Once i have one I will fit it in 😉
Thanks for making it. I was legitimately annoyed by my spare parts until I put them in that. 🤣👌🏻
@@MandicReally Doing some maintenance yesterday...thought about how good it would be to have a small box
can this be done in PLA or should it be different like carbon fiber filament?
@@PaulStephenson003 can be done in any material 😉
Sitting here watching without owning a X1 👁️👄👁️
Hopefully will own one soon :)
Thats how they get you
Save your money and get a P1S the lidar is not worth it. The difference in price means you can get an AMS at the same price
I sealed the door gap with electrical tape. Flexible enough to allow the door open but thick enough to block any drafts.
The machine leaks so much air out back and from chamber fan (even offline) that tiny leakage from top was not meassurably higher for me. Might still be wise...
Also for the desicant holders if you print them out with PETG or other high temp resistant material, something that can withstand 100 degrees Celsius, and if you use rechargeable silica gel, preferably chloride Cobalt free or food safe, then you can actually use your X1 as a heater by using the drying filament feature and dry the silica gel. I would recommend also turning up the bed temp to 100 degrees and turning on the chamber fan to at least 10% to get a bit of air flow and exhaust some of the moisture.
I already made the same tool box but I can’t wait to build and install the actual upgrades you demoed on my X-1. Great video!
Hey Alan, great video! Thanks for all the tips, I'll definitely apply/use some of them (Y-Splitter / LED update / tools). That was a big help, so many designs around!
Thanks Albert! I avoided these things for a while due to the overwhelming options out there, but finally decided to look closer and pick ones I liked. I'm happy with everything I picked for sure.
Holy hell I’m 1 minute into the video and already you’ve made my life better lol. Printing that tool NOW
Hey Mandic,
Nice video. I actually spliced off the LED bar inside the machine to use an LED controller to turn my new LED strip on and off. The latest firmware for the X1-C turns the light off when the Lidar is on, so it can get a good scan. When the bar inside turns back on, the LED controller turns my strip back on as well. Works great! Maybe something to hack together later.
Great video! I printed the AMS tool, since I didn't know about it. Don't see myself removing the AMS a lot, after using the Y Splitter.
I've got some projects ahead where I'll be opening it up again, maybe I'll tie the lights in when I get there. Thanks
Can you post what you used to do this? Or a brief explanation of how to do it. Sounds like the ideal way to do it!
@rewire some details of the controller and wiring would really help
@@MandicReally yes please also install this mod. It sounds really useful.
I was having that exact same issue with polymaker plastic spools kicking up and jamming the AMS when low. Thanks for letting me know the reason. That and the link to the disconnect tool got you a sub. Top content!
I figured out why I love this channel so much. It's the 3d printing equivalent of Beakamn's World!!!
I think that is about the highest honor a comment could bestow. Thank you!
As a newcomer one of the coolest things about 3d printing to me is you can print mods and tools for the machine itself right out of the box, such an elegant and efficient solution, no shipping no packaging etc.
Props to whoever made that first tool you showed. 👍👍👍👍
Awesome video I’m saving up for a X1 as my first 3D printer thanks for showcasing these items thank you!
Thank you! I am seriously considering the X1C. I'm really a "works out of he box" kind of guy, aka prosumer, but I am already fired up to make some of those mods. And I learned a lot of useful little tips. I especially like the desiccant core inserts for the filament rolls.
Have an x1 carbon on the way and was looking for mods. Absolutely perfect timing 🎉
Make a lift for the AMS cover @16:20 like the one for the led glass top. To fix the spool height issue. 😃
Just finished the video, it's a banger! Sharing it with my audience, thank you for this!
this is a great video! I just ordered a Bambu X1 Carbon (after years of having a Prusa). I'm excited about it, and your video has a ton of great ideas...thank you!
I’d love to see a video on calibration. I’ve been struggling getting a few filaments dialed in.
Makers Muse made a very nice Tolerance Gauge, I use it to dial on my Temps on every new filament
Softfever fork of bambu studio has all the calibrations and the help how to use them.
About the light bar: between my Ender 3 and my Artillery Sidewinder X1, I've wired LED light bars both ways (hooked to the machine's power supply and powered completely independent of the printer) and I can safely say that independently powering the light bar is the better option. Yes, you have a separate power cord and on/off switch, but being able to light up the working volume of the printer when you have the machine turned off for maintenance makes a huge difference. Besides, you could wire up a switch separate from the Kingroom power supply and mount it somewhere on the printer.
great video, glad to see the upgrades that bambu used to save money can be fixed as needed for each users needs. helps make a good machine great.👊🍻
In case anyone sees this later, Bambu sells some white LED strip with USB input that plugs directly into the printer. No wiring or extra stuff required. Additionally, adding the foam to the foil completely negated the foil side of the insulation which is reflect the heat back in. Don't add foam
Thanks for the shout out on the video. I am very happy you found the AMS Disconnect Tool useful!
Dude those two tools alone are freaking amazing. Agreed though, that Hydra design is pretty sweet!
Great video. Definitely looking forward to doing some if not all of these for my x1c.
I would really like to see your review for the Wham Bam plate on this. I really like it and it's been my go-to plate unless I am printing specific types of parts and need guaranteed adhesion (glue).
Also thank you for explaining the lighting being so dim inside the device. I never thought the LIDAR would have been the reason but it makes perfect sense now. Great video.
Just got my x1 carbon combo this video was perfect thank you !!!
This is probably the best 3d printing youtuber I've seen. Finally no waste of time, just great content.
Thanks for all your videos to the X1C etc, learned a lot from your videos. I wanted to ask if you think that the X1C has any disadvantages compared to industry 3D printers that cost several times it's amount (excluding build volume)
Great video. Silent fan replacements is ongoing, LED light upgrade is my next step. I am looking for your manual calibration video.
As for the door seal. If you look up 'Glass door sweeps' would something like that work? It could prevent air from coming out. My Dads old record player cabinet door had that kind of seal to prevent dust from getting in.
I like the desiccant holders.
Very Helpful video, thank you!
WOW that lighting worked very well thanks for sharing all that info hope we find all those demansions of those parts some where so we can print the same stuff if we want to it would be nice if people like you share information and demansions of those parts to download so others can print them as well.
Excellent vid as always!!
Thank you very much!
You almost got me convinced to take the dive for an X1!
Thank you for a great reviews and upgrade alternatives. I have a new X1 Carbon and was wondering what spares you would be suggesting I get ordered. I live in a far out Rural location in Australia and mainly print parts for Argi mods / repairs hence the Carbon. It takes at least 25 days longer to get to me than in suburban locations in Australia so having spares on hand is somewhat vital. Cheers and thank you for the work you do and contribute.
So i was debating on getting this beast of a 3d printer. Let’s just say this video has made me make my decision, thank you very much for the push I needed 👉👈🙏
Nice updates 👌😊 BTW are woodfil considered too abrasive for the AMS?
Best Tool I've found yet!
if you have AMS splitter and didnt use all holes of it, you can push outside roll filament trough one of unused holes in AMS HUB :)
for example i keep sunlu filament dryer behind my AMS and use it for printing ABS/ASA/PA12CF stright from the dryer ^^
This bad boy (a role of duct tape) will fix that gap at the door in no time, and it is flexible too :) Keep up the good work, love your videos
Good work, great channel
16:06 this may sound silly, but you could trim down that Jesse PLA spool on the outermost edge to reduce the overall diameter of the spool to make it fit. Then, you should be able to close the lid.
Alen, I honestly have no idea why it took me this long to find your channel. I've been 3d Printing for years now and RUclips's all knowing algorithm has never suggested your channel even once. The only reason I know of you is Joel's coverage of your ReAniMaker project at ERRF. I've only been watching for a short while but you've got my sub, keep up the great work fellow Philly local!
Because there are hundreds of channels doing the same content now.
These upgrades are KING
Def would love a video about your manual calibration process!
YOUR V0 LOOKS ABSOLUTLEY SICK!
The AMS removal tool might be useful, but I always disconnect the AMS at the *AMS* end; the PTFE tube is easy to remove (two small levers to press inside the AMS), and there is no issue with accessing the clip for the cable. It's almost like Bambu think that should be the default removal method.
Next question - what should I print the Hydra mod in? PLA/PETG/ASA/CF-infused?
I would worry about using hot glue if your printing abs or something like that. High Temps might loosen the glue.
Awesome video!! much appreciated! Subcribed!!
Thanks for the sub!
M3 is typically the smallest screw you can find at the local hardware store. IMO thats why so many creators use that size.
I would love to hear even a youtube short about the x1 and the lidar. I'm looking at buying a printer from bamboo but curious how important/ much of a deal breaker the lidar is. Regardless love the video!
@ 08:40. My AMS has 3700 hours on it and I have had to replace these PTFE tubes two times now because of the same issue with simply printing PLA. One time it was a whole tangled mess inside the bottom of the AMS.
I see that P3P sitting there! I have one too, I'm working on using the palette with the p1p in accessory mode since i didn't buy the AMS system
Id HIGHLY recommend just buying the AMS. The Bambu + AMS configuration is SO trouble free compared to the P3P. Granted I absolutely hate the P3P. I would say I had maybe a 20% success rate by the time I stopped using that machine.
@@MandicReally I honestly would love to and will later, but for now might as well. I’ve had good results on my Ender 3 with direct drive and a custom purge bucket, but any bowden printer or purge tower set up is so wasteful. With the purge bucket I only purge 35mm of filament total
Tip: don’t dry the desiccant while it is in the holder. The PLA will melt as the desiccant heats up in the microwave.
Do a video on testing and why you don't use the lidar please
Would LOVE to see a manual calibration video!
I’d like to hear more about the LiDAR inadequacy, and I did light strips with 24v transformer from an exterior source, right into a 120 plug, and there’s four sections on the desk right above the machine so the glass is tinted, therefore, not enough light gets through to mess up the lidar.
Good video. Thanks
There is a lid riser for the lid of the ams. That fixes your issue with the hydra mod.
Yea I saw the link the Hydra AMS post, I just didn't feel like printing it yet. I'll get to it soon.
Are there any little printable tool boxes that use the leftover hardware screws from unboxing the printer/ams?
Dude this is me letting you know i wamt to hear more about the calibration. I feel likes thats a huge selling point for the printer
Orherwise great video
Yeah, I wanna hear about manual calibration on this machine.
Love this video…I love all the camera movement in your videos, what kind of slider are you using?
Currently use an Edelkrone Slider Plus with their Pan/Tilt add-ons. Not sure if I’d recommend it but the next step up is double or triple the price.
@@MandicReally I’m building a 3d printing RUclips channel with 3d Timelapse’s and I just bought the Ekeldrone jib one with pan tilt…I’m hoping it will look rad
I have seen Bambu Labs AMS lid spacer for your lid issue, but I don't know how well it works.
Yea, the Hydra AMS project has a link to one, I just didn't feel a need to print it yet. Honestly I rarely print anything but Polymaker (which already fits), so I didn't NEED to do that Hydra at all, ha.
never clicked so fast! love your videos
Thank you very much, glad to hear it!
Thanx dude!!!
i sealed the front glass with electrical tape haha, so far holds up strong!
Just printed the AMS Disconnect Tool this evening. Had to figure out why my Ender 3 wasn't laying down filament properly first (mega clogged nozzle, swapped it out and it's all good again) and it came out really nice (bit of lifting on the square end but I think it will still fit).
Ordered the X1C with AMS after work today, so hopefully next week I'll have it and be able to start playing around with some of the other toys. Really great looking tool and advice and I'm glad I found the vid. I think this one little gadget is going to save me much frustration later on.
How have you been liking the X1C?
@@syd3034 Loving it. Extremely satisfied with the purchase. 99% of the time it just works exactly as you want.
Only troubles with it I've had so far is trying to run PETG and PLA through at the same time (trying to use the PLA as a PETG support material) and the PETG got stuck inside the extruder. So I had to pull it apart (extremely easy and well documented on the wiki).
And occasionally if you go a while without doing any prints, I've had the PLA become brittle enough to snap inside the tubing (usually in the bottom of the AMS). So I've had to do a few disassemblys, but the design and the documentation are very good. Some debate online as to what causes it. Some think humidity (but my AMD shows very low humidity) and some claim the tightness of the winding on the rolls doesn't play well with straightening once you get down to the inner sections. Only had to clear five of these, all of them more recently too. And only on the rolls that are getting light on. So might be advisible to remove the rolls from the AMS if you're going to go a while between prints.
Done some ABS and it was just as easy as the PLA. Just following the general advice online was sufficient. Multi-colour has been simple and I like the results to date. Haven't done anything super complex, but it's worked pretty well.
Really simple to print additional tools and parts to make life easier as well. Done a few of the AMS guides to help smooth the pushing and pulling of filament, but didn't have any pullback failures until I added a second AMS, and they mostly went away after adding the guides.
So far I've printed several big multi-part pieces. Dimensional accuracy has been pretty good. Probably will be doing some dialling in before I do my next one as a few of the pegs on my most recent one were a touch big for their holes and there was some cracking and delaminating. But once the entire model was together it's not noticeable.
All in all, very happy with my choice. Printing is incredibly easy. It's been extremely reliable. Maintenance is so much simpler than the Ender was. I'm at about 1100 hours of printing on it so far since purchase.
For the first generation, I think it's great. But it might be a good idea to hold off if you don't like having to make extra bits and pieces. I reckon a second gen version might iron out a few of the small niggling problems. And I don't think one would be too far off. Depends on how one approaches such a large cost purchase. I definitely think it was worth it for me.
Thank you so much for your detailed response! I currently have a pretty clunky and outdated printer from nearly a decade ago and the technology has gotten exponentially better. I’ve been looking into getting a new one for a while, and I figured if I’m gonna get one, might as well get the best. Multicolor printing and multi-material printing is very important to me. I like the ability to add multiple AMS units and that you can print basically “right out the box.” I think the most compelling factor for me for getting the X1 over the P1 is the multi-material printing.
Thanks again for your honest review and helping me make my decision!
@@syd3034 No problem at all. Just a note though, the P series can use the AMS as well. The X and P can use the box AMS and both the big and small A1s use the stand AMS.
The difference between X and P is the mainboard and chip on the X are more powerful, so it has some intelligent features that the P can't do (the flow calibration, first layer checks and spaghetti detection).
And it comes already fitted with all the bells and whistles (camera, etc). But from my own research when I was buying mine, if you don't need the extras or the smart features, they print identically with all the same materials and accessories.
Just in case that factors into your decision. I'd still recommend the X as I use those extra features on every print, but you may not need or want them.
They have come quite the long way from what I've seen. Now I'm hoping for someone to X1 the resin printers and plastic recylers so I can add them to my creator space. Both technologies aren't quite at the general consumer friendly level I wanna do this hobby at just yet. But hopefully soon...
I guess I was just going off of what they have listed on their website, which is that the X is more recommended for different materials over the P but the P is also capable. And I agree, we need more options for recycling filament!
It's interesting that you added a mod to increase the enclosure temperature, but I've just watched a 3D Printing Nerd video where he printed a very nice mod to lower it for PLA printing. It still has the ability to fully close the enclosure, but for PLA the glass can be lifted. It is also shaped to perfectly fit the AMS. Perhaps that mod would have been a better all-round solution. The glass is higher, so you could (probably) still fit your LEDs. If not, a slight remix would allow it. That tool for unhooking the AMS should be shipped as standard.
I've not seen your channel before, so I don't know how good your modelling skills are, but why not model a parts box which does fit everything? That's the joy of 3D printing, you can make stuff exactly how you want it.
It would be nice if an update to the AMS had a larger lid so that it will accommodate larger spools, and include something like the hydra mod as standard. I know they probably want everyone to use their own-brand filament, but that's not how the 3D printing market rolls.
I keep waiting to see what the Creality K1 max and the Qidi X-max 3 will turn out… bit the more I wait and see, the more convinced I am into paying the premium for the C1 carbon with the AMS regardless of the smaller print volume.
I don’t have a K1 yet & Qidi is updating the X-Max 3 so I’m not doing much with the one I have. So I really can’t give much input unfortunately.
I’m feeling similar. Would really like 300mm+ build volume, but I’m pretty sure the AMS is a game changer both for multi filament prints and pure convenience. It’s a helluva feature!
Plus, I’m pretty sure Bambu can do a better job at support and improving the product than Qidi or Creality. Full credit to them, but it’s pretty clear that Bambu has disrupted the space …
@@floodo1 I have a X1C with AMS for a month now and it's flawless. Just amazing. I wanted to get the new X-Max 3 with the large build volume and heated chamber but with hours and probably days of research I decided my best long term buy for me was getting another X1 Carbon. So now I have a brand new second X1C on the way and can't wait to start churning out professional prints with two printers. I'm also curious to see if the second X1C has any small differences in quality. I won't lie the quality of the aluminum and real glass, ease of use, camera w/ timelapse, AMS, and the software is just getting better on top of already how polished it is. Bambu is crushing it.
% humidity is relative (to temperature), the warmer the air the more moisture it can carry. Your results were better than you perceived.
Is there any assurance that insulating the X1C to allow for higher temps wont cause issues with any of the components inside from excessive heating?
Hey man, I found my build plate was uneven. So I put aluminum foil and kapton tape under it to even out the dead spots. I found since I did that, my printer works better. I could have gotten a new build plate but it's a nightmare to actually remove/replace it apparently.
As for insulation just put a woll blanket over the printer. But i noticed when the internals are too hot the automatic bed leveling does not work
Could you use some of that rubber foam tape stuff for sealing up windows (I think it comes in 1/4" or 3/8" widths)? The stuff I'm specifically thinking of kind of looks like a capital letter D on the cross-section, has a hollow center, and isn't very thick when compressed. You could maybe take the door off, mount that tape to the printer, and reinstall the door. When you open/close the door, the tape would (I think) probably move with it.
Or it may be too thick.
Voron Spec 1mm thick foam tape might work also if you have any left from your Voron Zero builds (I'm not sure if the Zero uses that foam -- I have a Trident).
Good thing now for those who don't want to attempt the hydra mod is alot of filliment companies have created more than enough spools that work in the AMS now.
Its not much of an issue anymore.
@MandicReally, I did find a TPU Gasket for the door; did you perhaps see this on printables: Bambu Lab Door TPU Gasket
I hadn’t. I’ll check it out, thanks. Mine has been masking taped for months. 😅
i see you put it on the concrete block and foam, does that improve the noise and vibrations?
wait so you have had success with running cardboard spools in the ams? or was this after the hydra mod? I have a lot of polymaker and keep hearing about them not being compatible and not respooling properly.
advice?
Very good!
As usual quality content man, in your opinion do you think bambu will make a bigger X1?
I think they've got plenty of ironing out to do on the X-1 & P1P yet. It wouldn't be a good idea to release yet another product at this time. I hope they just continue to refine and hold off on that. It would be nice to see but I'd rather a better polished product.
just orderd mine a few hours ago... the ams riser, the hydra ams mod and the ams silicia boxes will be the first 3d prints in my life lol ... one question cant u use the power from the printer for the led?
Scuff your Wham Bam with fine sandpaper or steel wool and the lidar will work fine. Preheat your chamber with a hair dryer while running the auxiliary fan at 50%.
FYI someone has a wedge shape model for holding the lid up. Don't remember where I saw it as I've been watching a ton of video on this printing before buying.
for the AMS disconnect tool... I admit I just unplug the cable on the AMS, not the one one the printer. So it never was an issue tbh
I have the same desiccant and I would worry about it rolling around in the vented tubes as the beads I have in mine tend to break easily and you'll get "dust" everywhere, have you experienced any issues with residual dust from broken beads?
A fair concern. Worst case you end up with desiccant dust in the AMS. Wipe it out carefully and it shouldn't be much of an issue. I'll keep an eye on it. I haven't had any issues to this point but other applications where I've used it weren't constantly moving.
Thanks!
You should really clean the front two rotary stats and put some grease on it. There are some super quick prints for helping spread the lube.
Also the carbon filter needs to be replaced. I think that thing needs to be replaced every two or three months depending on what filaments you print with. I think they are 6 dollars but I might be wrong.
From a maintenance standpoint you should be set for the most part doing those 2 simple things.
For the leds since u can manually turn off and on, can just keep off while calibrating? and then turn on when printing?
I'm in the market for one of these machines, and I have this nagging suspicion that the whole lidar thing is mostly marketing hype. I'm actually leaning more towards the P1P due to easier access, and more options with an enclosure. So a video covering the auto vs manual leveling would be very helpful.
Someone actually tested that and it does make a difference but not a ton. Print quality is great regardless, I have x1c but i think P1P looks great for it its price.
It's actually quite a good idea, and even if it does a little, it does it without me having to check :D
I'm a noob, and wanted to know what size nozzle you used to print the filament rollers? I'm going to be ordering one of these printers and don't have any 3D printing experience, so I want to know which (second) nozzle size to order! Thanks so much - your newest subscriber.
Dang, weird to hear you've had issues with the auto calibrate. For me it's worked perfectly even with third party textured pei plates
He has got earliest model so maybe that is why
Can you tell me what size the 2 screws are that go back inside to secure the Hydra down. I lost mine