Thanks for this Video. Just brought the P1S Combo today and can't wait to get it running. Having the most handy addons shown in this video is a great help. ❤
I recommend printing the dessicant holders in ASA. That way you can just pop them in the microwave on defrost for 10 mins to refresh. No worrying about spilling the beads all over the place (ahem, guilty!).
@jeyaubx122_5 it's fairly common and easy to get. It's easier to print than ABS. And it has a higher temperature resistance so it won't melt in the microwave when you recharge the desiccant beads
I think people add the logo for one of a few reasons: 1) They really enjoy the bambu brand and want to celebrate / be part of it 2) It enhances the idea of manufacturing "real" parts yourself. By putting branding on it, its more like a professional product 3) Similar to 2, it makes it seem like the parts are part of the official product and people want to maintain the aesthetic
thanks for the insight. I understand it on some level but honestly not everything of the original parts is branded. But hey I fully understand it's personal pereference. 😊
@@butterflyj685 people are not trying to pass off stuff with a bambu labs logo as "real" bambu products. A big part of any trademark claim is whether it causes confusion in the market, which this would not. Its more like fan art. Relax my dude, people just trying to enjoy themselves.
@@Arne.Bornheim To be honest, I think it's more-so they think by including the logo their model will get more "recognition", earning them more makerworld points.
Totally agree about the time and filament wasting Bambu logos on accessories! I’ve modded designs to remove the logo when I couldn’t find a version without it.
Find some clear plastic cereal containers for filament storage and place some desiccant inside with the spool. This works great for 1kg spools and I’m sure there are some containers out there that would fit 5kg spools as well
It's a bigger project, but I just rebuilt my original X1C AMS into a Python system since it was showing its age anyway- absolutely no problems with filament jams, motor overloads, or cardboard spools since I made the change. If you don't want to source the hardware yourself, Voxel has kits for $9.99 right now and you can print the parts yourself for free (plus filament, obviously)
@@Arne.Bornheim The touch screen for the P1S that Bigtreetech sells is absolutely fantastic. The connectivity to the printer is seamless, the UI is great and it is perfectly functional. I also recommend getting carbon fiber build plates, I have personally tested them and they have excellent adhesion and the print surface looks great. This hack is absolutely a case by case scenario but I keep a few x1/p1's on a large turntable I made so it's easier to access the back of the printer but if you have enough space, it's easier to just space the printers out enough that you can access the back of them. Anti vibration feet you buy or make are also nice if you want to cut down on vibration Also a suggestion for you may be to use clear acrylic doors instead of the tinted glass. I use this myself so I can keep everything closed and still get great photos/videos from an external camera. I haven't seen clear acrylic or glass doors online for the p1/x1 so I had to laser cut them myself but it was worth it.
@@Arne.Bornheim Overall I have simply just had less issues with the P1S printers. Less print failures, less accidental pausing by the Bambu camera AI, lower price for the p1, and after the hot end and extruder upgrade it's a nearly identical printer.
Thanks for all the great tips! Definitely agree that the P1s is the best choice for most people. Especially with some upgrades! Carbon fiber plates sound interesting. Will have to try it 😊 I like the idea with the turntable but the whole shop cart is on wheels so I’m good there! Like the laser cut new window. Do you have problems with reflections? Probably a thing many people would love to buy 😉
So far no problems with reflections, I put the lens directly up to the acrylic door and have a ring light that illuminates the printer from above and since I use a carbon fiber build plates, I don't get much light reflection from it so it works perfectly. I also forgot to mention, I completely agree with the unnecessary addition of the Bambu logo on prints people design. It's not a huge deal but it is unnecessary. @@Arne.Bornheim
When you get to a point where the print is more important than the printer, you buy an x1c, plug it in, and print. No need for so called “mods”. Have over 5,000 hours of print time on 3 of these with no problems. I can count the failed prints on one hand and they were usually my fault. If you want to improve something, learn your slicer. That is where quality prints come from.
Nice! How did you connect it? I just saw that Bambu also sells their own light strip right? I saw some other videos with people using third party light strips and wiring it into the mainboard which looked sketchy to me
I also have a riser and connected the LED light to a usb socket that gets power from the original LED on the mainboard. This way it turns on and off with the app. So far it works even if bambu doesn‘t recommend high current LED strips for the daughter bord that carries the power.
@@TheChriss1301 yeah that's the part I was worried about with it eventually causin problems. I saw that there's an official light strip from bambu though and might give that a try
Great video, Personally don't own a bambulab ( wish I did haha ) but your very entertaining to watch yet chill in the same regard which is really nice!
Should have also included the gear removal tool that Bambu provides the STL for in order to remove the hotend gear if it is not loose enough to remove by hand. Better to print is _before_ there is a problem (such as a jam) with the hotend.
Thanks for mentioning this! never had any problems but I see your point of when it's there it's already too late (for most people, I could print the tool on another printer ;) )
I think for some printers BambuLab is just a status symbol, thats why its on everything 😂When describing to my Friends that I am changing from my Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro to the PS1 Combo I also often refer to Changing from an old Fiat 500 to an Audi A6. Clearly its not a Lamborghini, but It just works more smoothly and doesnt require me to have a whole toolbox with me all the time. So the BambuLab sign on every print is the equivalent to Audi drivers having a mug, Keychain and shirt with Audi all over
Personally, I add the logo on my models for identification reasons. I have a hard time with losing stuff, especially small tools. So having identification markers that this tool is what I'm looking for and what it is to be used with this product/ material. For example, I made a tough box with a Bambu Lab logo on top. I printed it with white and red PLA +. It is a box that will not be around high temperatures, should be able to be beaten around a bit, but most importantly the red Bambu Lab logo tells me that box belongs to my printer in case of emergency. Like an emergency kit would look. That is my personal reason and I got the idea from Adam Savage a long time ago but other than that I actually prefer no branding, even on my clothes lol Also, just a tip, I would recommend not storing objects under the printer itself. As the Z axis belt, tensioner, and exposed idler pulley. You don't want anything rubbing against this stuff, dust, and/ or having accidental chemical exposure to the belt itself IE IPA commonly used. I found that the belts and idler pulleys are the Achilles heels of these machines but if properly maintained, that work flawlessly.
Alright that's definitely a point that I can understand! For many mods, that go inside the printer I don't though haha And thanks regarding your recommendation with not storing stuff under the printer. I have the anti vibration feet installed so the printer has lot's of clearance and i think I'll be ok
haha it hurt so much when I had that perfect timelapse and then everything fell off when taking it out 😂 but I thought: hey I'll just leave it in there for everyone to cringe with me
I was seeing a persistent '2 water drops' on one of my AMS units. Looked at the desiccant packs...yup, dusky orange had become clear/yellow with a bit of mossy green! Not bad, not great... A few hours in a food dehydrator...excuse me, 'blast air dryer' and the beads were proper orange again. I didn't really trust the Bambu moisture sensor (slow response time), but I do now.
hey man thanks for the timelapse mod, I definitely have to try that out! For the splitter, I highly recommend the one from Bambulab. Also consider to upgrade the nozzle wiper if you print something like PETG since it has a tendency to not get wiped properly. (although i also get this problem with PLA sometimes). The nozzle wiper from Svenkrause works amazingly well, and you’re in Germany so you can just easily buy it from them👍🏼
interesting point with the y splitter from bambu. I couldn't find it though 😕 do you mean the 4in1 splitter from the A1 or is there a specific y splitter? also will look at the nozzle wiper!
can’t wait to print a few of these ideas. found the desiccant holders in another video, and am also using pull out trays for the ams packet holder. getting ready to tear apart my ams because i’ve had spool 3 feeding issues. i’ve seen recommendations to replace tubes and make sure there wasn’t any clogging, so i’ll be putting on the bambu splitter and some of those quick connects
This has been such a great video, so many good tips well explained, great work and looking forward to adding these. I just the P1P to p1s upgrade lots of steps and bad instructions, but ams ahoy!
@@Arne.Bornheim yes that's fine too. I did it with some things also to see how the multicolor would work and look like but without saves you alot of time :)
Thank you SO much for these mods. But I am confused by the Y splitter. I don't understand how the AMS knows that there is another spool available. What am I missing on how to use the splitter?
When loading filament manually, a sensor in the hot-end 'knows' what you have done. The printer 'knows' it didn't load filament from the AMS, so it assumes manual loading. When send a print-job, be sure to un-check the AMS option. Be careful using splitter with 'pauses' in a print-job...I've seen the printer go into a 'coma'. Best to disable AMS completely by unplugging the cable. There are always situations where filament changes can't be automated...
Really depends on the filaments you're printing. In general the Ams can keep filament dry but not dry it out. Whereas a filament dryer can actively dry filament out. That being said there are other ways of drying out filament like the X1 build chamber or an oven. Only reason you should definitely get a dryer is if you print some engineering grade materials that should be printed directly from a dryer. Other than that just wait and see if it's needed 😊
@@Arne.Bornheim I am almost certain that the AMS will dry the filament until it reaches an equilibrium with the desiccant, so to the same humidity as it can keep the filament from absorbing moisture. it is just going to take longer than heating the filament to dry it.
I would imagine that the reason for the logo would be for identification reasons if you owned multiple printers of different manufacturers. I personally would like to know what parts went with which printer.
Can someone please tell me where I can get pla filament in flesh skin typical white person color. Elegoo suggested beige, but that is way too pale and towards yellowish. So far I bought two different rolls and they lack that slight pink, tan, olive, combination that makes skin tone. Please help. Thanks
Hey 😊 have you tried just googling for "skin color PLA" I found one from creality. Also there's a shop here that has a line of 4 different skin tones. Not sure where you're located so it might not make sense to send a link for a German retailer....
you told about the 3 extra silica holders. but what about those behind in the AMS. i see many say print the box and use silica balls in them also. why dont you talk about them ? dont you need it when those 3 in front or why ? and also what about the filter inside the X1C i know some made a box also so you can use pills for it and dont have to by the filters from bambu lab. i even think the filters only sells there. i am new user not even startet yet only build my X1C with 2 AMS. and just got a complete 0.2mm nozzle so now i am changing the 04 to the 02 because i will use 02. like 90 % of the times
That’s not a good reason as I can’t see anyone trying to print a dust cover as seen in this video and then try to fit it on a Creality or whatever. Also if it works on another printer then why not just have without the logo. It makes zero sense to place it there
I wouldn't throw away the 5kg spool filament just yet unless its UV damaged. Chuck that thing inside the X1C with the bed hot and leave it in until dry.
yeah I didn't throw it away... Wanted to make a little project to build a respooler anyways and might use it with that, then I can also dry it out in smaller batches...
@@Arne.Bornheim That's a great project! You could make an interesting video by respooling a 5kg roll into 5 1kg rolls. No idea if that is cost effective though lol.
On my x1c every connection has glue on it and I notice not all of them have the glue on ports. Do you have that and do you know how I can remove it? I think thats my biggest down point for bambu. Putting glue on everything. How can I cjange the hot end if every wires connection has glue on it? For me the nozzle wiper also didnt work for botj my printers. Alot of times it just wouldn't cut but than after the update it cuts perfectly on both. I think they changed the cooldown time before the cuts.
If the glue is in the way you might consider just removing it with pliers or push it off with a pen... But please make sure only to do it on the right connections. You need to take out 3 of the connectors to change the hot end. Some other connectors are for other stuff and stay in. And cool to hear the nozzle wiper mod works for you!
Im honestly moving away from big filament rolls. 5kg are super hard to use up and the price difference is not that big. With big spools you have problems with them drawing moisture and they’re generally annoying to handle. So unless you use a print farm or really know the big project you use it for it might not be worth it. That said I use a model called TUSH www.thingiverse.com/thing:4325487
I am considering buying a 3D printer (likely a P1S). But as the climate here where I live is always relatively wet (high humidity even when the sun is burning 24/7) I'm likely gonna build a small "room in a room" for the printer, and simply put a dehumidifier in there to keep the entire room dry. This also has the extra benefit of containing any fumes.
People putting Bambu logos everywhere because these printers looks premium and people don't want to attach something to them that will disrupt their looks.
@@Arne.BornheimI agree. The logos placed all over honestly makes it look tacky as all hell. I do the same as you do and look for the models without the logo or see how easily removable they are if I can’t find one that exists already.
@@Arne.BornheimI just added those a few weeks ago. I can’t decide if they help or hurt the print quality. My table shakes less, but the printer itself vibrates like crazy now!
Really nice video. Especially the timelapse mod seems interesting for me. Do you recommend to place the printer on a workshop trolley? I am currently searching for something similar to securely place my printer but haven't decided yet. Currently its on the floor which is not that nice ;)
Thanks a lot :) ! in terms of the workbench: it still introduces wobble in the printer, since I dont have the wheels locked off either. That being said I have no problems with printing :)
I've always said if a company wants me to show their banding. They should pay me. That's why when I had both my k1 and k1 max i removed the 'creality' wording and on sometimes scratch out the makers name. also on all my cars i would debadge them. If i get a bew mobile phone and the shop offers me a bag. I decline. One i don't want people knowing I just bought a new phone and also they plaster their name on the badge. They want me to walk around with a bag that's says 'O2' or 'Vodafone' they pay me
Anno 2024 and you're copying content from years ago passing the opportunity of the 101 mods that have been released in the meantime and are super useful. Very uninspiring.
1. If you need a poop collector. You didn't read the manual. 2. useless. 3. useless. 4. useless. 5. useless 6. useless 7. Use tweezer. 8. not useful to the average printer.
I can agree with most of those but that desiccant holder at 5:00 is a terrible thing to print, so many retractions, there are much better versions available, vase mode versions are way nicer to print. My purge container is just an arbitrary square food container with 2 magnets to stick it in place, those chutes waste space on my countertop. Liked the DSLR camera mod and the extra lights are mandatory if you want decent video files, thanks for including those. I see another on Thingiverse: Spiral Vase Desiccant Box for Bambu AMS by ThomPerry63.
Do you have a specific dessicant holder you would recommend? this one printed fine for me and I'm happy so far :) In terms of the chute: yeah it's honestly whatever works i think haha I'm definitely looking at extra lights in the printer. maybe for an upcoming episode...
Agreed. I tried it multiple times in PAHT-CF so the dessicant can be dried without taking out of the holders, but there were so many retractions it kept breaking the filament. I printed the SPILLPROOF GRID AMS Dessicant pods Round and the pods may not be as large, but they print great and way faster.
@@Arne.Bornheimcan’t post links here (comment is auto deleted) but as the other commenter mentioned, the SPILLPROOF ones are both recommended by Bambu Lab (there’s a maker supply “kit” for it now) and allow air from the AMS to reach the hygrometer without passing through desiccant beads like the one you printed does. They are narrower in part because of this, but also allow insertion and removal while there are spools in the AMS, for max desiccant usage there’s a double-up option as well on all of the listings. There’s 9 designs of the SPILLPROOF boxes for various popular hygrometers #shamelessplug
@@Arne.Bornheim I suggest “Vase mode desiccant holder for the Bambu Lab AMS” by mortalwombat. Found it on Printables. I know there are one or two others but I didn’t save those. It’s important to remember that you want a large area of desiccant exposed to the air in the AMS to be most effective. A layer in the back holders need not be thick so a thin holder there would also help. I “recharged” my green desiccant pellets back to yellow in about 15 minutes I’m a toaster oven in a tray. My temperature was set to 125 degrees C. Put them in when it’s already warmed up else they get toasted by the direct heat when it heats up from cold.
Sometimes bamboo makes some contest and people put their logo there I'm guessing to have more chances to win even though it doesn't even change anything.
Thanks for this Video. Just brought the P1S Combo today and can't wait to get it running. Having the most handy addons shown in this video is a great help. ❤
Happy you liked it! Have fun with your P1S!
I recommend printing the dessicant holders in ASA. That way you can just pop them in the microwave on defrost for 10 mins to refresh. No worrying about spilling the beads all over the place (ahem, guilty!).
That’s a really good idea! I have. Some asa laying around and might try this !
Why precisely the ASA ? Why does it resist better in the microwave than other type of filament?
@jeyaubx122_5 it's fairly common and easy to get. It's easier to print than ABS. And it has a higher temperature resistance so it won't melt in the microwave when you recharge the desiccant beads
What humidity sensor did you use?
@@jeyaubx122_5 ASA is resistant to heat.
Your living space is an absolute vibe. I love the wood & concrete.
Thank you 😊 that’s my office / video studio 😊 I wish my apartment looked like that too 😂
I think people add the logo for one of a few reasons:
1) They really enjoy the bambu brand and want to celebrate / be part of it
2) It enhances the idea of manufacturing "real" parts yourself. By putting branding on it, its more like a professional product
3) Similar to 2, it makes it seem like the parts are part of the official product and people want to maintain the aesthetic
thanks for the insight. I understand it on some level but honestly not everything of the original parts is branded. But hey I fully understand it's personal pereference. 😊
No matter the reason, it's still ripping off someone else's trademark, which is a violation, thus illegal!
@@butterflyj685 people are not trying to pass off stuff with a bambu labs logo as "real" bambu products. A big part of any trademark claim is whether it causes confusion in the market, which this would not. Its more like fan art. Relax my dude, people just trying to enjoy themselves.
@@Arne.Bornheim To be honest, I think it's more-so they think by including the logo their model will get more "recognition", earning them more makerworld points.
They may also use the logo to know which part goes to which printer if they have several differing models.
Totally agree about the time and filament wasting Bambu logos on accessories! I’ve modded designs to remove the logo when I couldn’t find a version without it.
you're the hero I needed 🙌
Find some clear plastic cereal containers for filament storage and place some desiccant inside with the spool. This works great for 1kg spools and I’m sure there are some containers out there that would fit 5kg spools as well
It's a bigger project, but I just rebuilt my original X1C AMS into a Python system since it was showing its age anyway- absolutely no problems with filament jams, motor overloads, or cardboard spools since I made the change. If you don't want to source the hardware yourself, Voxel has kits for $9.99 right now and you can print the parts yourself for free (plus filament, obviously)
Cool! this sounds like a super interesting thing :) Happy to hear yours is running well
The Y-Splitter can be bought from bambu store. I would recommend this as i had problems with printed ones that the filament did get stuck.
Thanks for the info! could you either comment or send me a link? I couldn't find it on the website
I printed 1 in pla and 1 in petg. For me it went perfectly so maybe the tubes got bend?
I personally run, maintain, and upgrade a fleet of over 45 p1s/x1's. My number one tip is to get the p1s. Its honestly a better printer.
Respect that’s a lot. What do you think makes the P1s better?
Also do you have any upgrades or things that you think are missing from the video?
@@Arne.Bornheim
The touch screen for the P1S that Bigtreetech sells is absolutely fantastic. The connectivity to the printer is seamless, the UI is great and it is perfectly functional.
I also recommend getting carbon fiber build plates, I have personally tested them and they have excellent adhesion and the print surface looks great.
This hack is absolutely a case by case scenario but I keep a few x1/p1's on a large turntable I made so it's easier to access the back of the printer but if you have enough space, it's easier to just space the printers out enough that you can access the back of them.
Anti vibration feet you buy or make are also nice if you want to cut down on vibration
Also a suggestion for you may be to use clear acrylic doors instead of the tinted glass. I use this myself so I can keep everything closed and still get great photos/videos from an external camera. I haven't seen clear acrylic or glass doors online for the p1/x1 so I had to laser cut them myself but it was worth it.
@@Arne.Bornheim
Overall I have simply just had less issues with the P1S printers. Less print failures, less accidental pausing by the Bambu camera AI, lower price for the p1, and after the hot end and extruder upgrade it's a nearly identical printer.
Thanks for all the great tips! Definitely agree that the P1s is the best choice for most people. Especially with some upgrades!
Carbon fiber plates sound interesting. Will have to try it 😊
I like the idea with the turntable but the whole shop cart is on wheels so I’m good there!
Like the laser cut new window. Do you have problems with reflections? Probably a thing many people would love to buy 😉
So far no problems with reflections, I put the lens directly up to the acrylic door and have a ring light that illuminates the printer from above and since I use a carbon fiber build plates, I don't get much light reflection from it so it works perfectly.
I also forgot to mention, I completely agree with the unnecessary addition of the Bambu logo on prints people design. It's not a huge deal but it is unnecessary.
@@Arne.Bornheim
When you get to a point where the print is more important than the printer, you buy an x1c, plug it in, and print. No need for so called “mods”. Have over 5,000 hours of print time on 3 of these with no problems. I can count the failed prints on one hand and they were usually my fault. If you want to improve something, learn your slicer. That is where quality prints come from.
Amen
Excellent. Have had the X1C for a year and just got the AMS. Printing out about all these mods. Thanks!
Really happy to hear 😊 hope you enjoy the ams
Great video information going to check these out tonight and print away!
An AMS riser with a usb led strip was a great addition to mine. Nice vid !
Nice! How did you connect it? I just saw that Bambu also sells their own light strip right?
I saw some other videos with people using third party light strips and wiring it into the mainboard which looked sketchy to me
I also have a riser and connected the LED light to a usb socket that gets power from the original LED on the mainboard. This way it turns on and off with the app. So far it works even if bambu doesn‘t recommend high current LED strips for the daughter bord that carries the power.
@@TheChriss1301 yeah that's the part I was worried about with it eventually causin problems. I saw that there's an official light strip from bambu though and might give that a try
Great video, Personally don't own a bambulab ( wish I did haha ) but your very entertaining to watch yet chill in the same regard which is really nice!
Thanks so much! means a lot 😊
Thank you for the time lapse mod and info! ❤
you're welcome 😊 hope it helps on future videos!
Arne - Thankyou I will be using some of your ideas!
Really glad to hear :) Hope it goes well for you
Should have also included the gear removal tool that Bambu provides the STL for in order to remove the hotend gear if it is not loose enough to remove by hand. Better to print is _before_ there is a problem (such as a jam) with the hotend.
Thanks for mentioning this! never had any problems but I see your point of when it's there it's already too late (for most people, I could print the tool on another printer ;) )
Good stuff, thank you so much for posting!
Happy you liked it !
Bambu labs makes a 4 way splitter for $4.99, it is definitely worth the buy vs the print and it screws on to the back to secure it.
Didn’t know that, thanks for mentioning it!
ah but then theres the wait for shipping.
Thanks for mentioning this! Definitely a good idea!
I think for some printers BambuLab is just a status symbol, thats why its on everything 😂When describing to my Friends that I am changing from my Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro to the PS1 Combo I also often refer to Changing from an old Fiat 500 to an Audi A6. Clearly its not a Lamborghini, but It just works more smoothly and doesnt require me to have a whole toolbox with me all the time. So the BambuLab sign on every print is the equivalent to Audi drivers having a mug, Keychain and shirt with Audi all over
This is a good explanation. Maybe that’s it
Personally, I add the logo on my models for identification reasons. I have a hard time with losing stuff, especially small tools. So having identification markers that this tool is what I'm looking for and what it is to be used with this product/ material. For example, I made a tough box with a Bambu Lab logo on top. I printed it with white and red PLA +. It is a box that will not be around high temperatures, should be able to be beaten around a bit, but most importantly the red Bambu Lab logo tells me that box belongs to my printer in case of emergency. Like an emergency kit would look. That is my personal reason and I got the idea from Adam Savage a long time ago but other than that I actually prefer no branding, even on my clothes lol Also, just a tip, I would recommend not storing objects under the printer itself. As the Z axis belt, tensioner, and exposed idler pulley. You don't want anything rubbing against this stuff, dust, and/ or having accidental chemical exposure to the belt itself IE IPA commonly used. I found that the belts and idler pulleys are the Achilles heels of these machines but if properly maintained, that work flawlessly.
Alright that's definitely a point that I can understand! For many mods, that go inside the printer I don't though haha
And thanks regarding your recommendation with not storing stuff under the printer. I have the anti vibration feet installed so the printer has lot's of clearance and i think I'll be ok
@4:59 - that transition was epic
haha it hurt so much when I had that perfect timelapse and then everything fell off when taking it out 😂 but I thought: hey I'll just leave it in there for everyone to cringe with me
Awesome, didn't even know what that water drop number was - Impressed it has a humidity sensor in the AMS
Nice to hear you learned something new 😊 it’s definitely good to keep an eye on that
I was seeing a persistent '2 water drops' on one of my AMS units.
Looked at the desiccant packs...yup, dusky orange had become clear/yellow with a bit of mossy green!
Not bad, not great...
A few hours in a food dehydrator...excuse me, 'blast air dryer' and the beads were proper orange again.
I didn't really trust the Bambu moisture sensor (slow response time), but I do now.
What hygrometer did you use? Want to make sure I get one that fits the print.
I just put hygrometer round in Amazon search. These seem pretty standard as there are a lot similar ones from different brands 😊
hey man thanks for the timelapse mod, I definitely have to try that out!
For the splitter, I highly recommend the one from Bambulab. Also consider to upgrade the nozzle wiper if you print something like PETG since it has a tendency to not get wiped properly. (although i also get this problem with PLA sometimes). The nozzle wiper from Svenkrause works amazingly well, and you’re in Germany so you can just easily buy it from them👍🏼
interesting point with the y splitter from bambu. I couldn't find it though 😕 do you mean the 4in1 splitter from the A1 or is there a specific y splitter?
also will look at the nozzle wiper!
can’t wait to print a few of these ideas. found the desiccant holders in another video, and am also using pull out trays for the ams packet holder. getting ready to tear apart my ams because i’ve had spool 3 feeding issues. i’ve seen recommendations to replace tubes and make sure there wasn’t any clogging, so i’ll be putting on the bambu splitter and some of those quick connects
Your awesome time laps made me want your DSLR trigger. Begging the question, what filament do you print with the door open?
Happy to hear 😊 with stuff like PLA it's no problem with the door open
This has been such a great video, so many good tips well explained, great work and looking forward to adding these.
I just the P1P to p1s upgrade lots of steps and bad instructions, but ams ahoy!
Great video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Colored logos make the print look more fancy. Thats probably the reason xD
Haha probably just reflects my personality that I'd rather have a simple back one 😂
@@Arne.Bornheim yes that's fine too. I did it with some things also to see how the multicolor would work and look like but without saves you alot of time :)
Thank you SO much for these mods. But I am confused by the Y splitter. I don't understand how the AMS knows that there is another spool available. What am I missing on how to use the splitter?
When loading filament manually, a sensor in the hot-end 'knows' what you have done.
The printer 'knows' it didn't load filament from the AMS, so it assumes manual loading.
When send a print-job, be sure to un-check the AMS option.
Be careful using splitter with 'pauses' in a print-job...I've seen the printer go into a 'coma'.
Best to disable AMS completely by unplugging the cable.
There are always situations where filament changes can't be automated...
Good tips. Thanks.
Nice mods. I have one on order. Can you vent the print cab outside the house, say with a large hose? Thanks for any suggestions.
Would you recommend I still get a dryer if I’m using the desiccant mod in the AMS?
Great video by the way!
Really depends on the filaments you're printing. In general the Ams can keep filament dry but not dry it out. Whereas a filament dryer can actively dry filament out. That being said there are other ways of drying out filament like the X1 build chamber or an oven.
Only reason you should definitely get a dryer is if you print some engineering grade materials that should be printed directly from a dryer. Other than that just wait and see if it's needed 😊
@ super helpful, ty 🙏
@@Arne.Bornheim I am almost certain that the AMS will dry the filament until it reaches an equilibrium with the desiccant, so to the same humidity as it can keep the filament from absorbing moisture. it is just going to take longer than heating the filament to dry it.
What is the Desitin that changes color when it gets wet? 5:58
I searched for „color change desiccant“.Hope that helps 😊 !
Because Bambu lab is the goat
Nice video, have you found a way how to automate your X1C?
I would imagine that the reason for the logo would be for identification reasons if you owned multiple printers of different manufacturers.
I personally would like to know what parts went with which printer.
When I printed the nozzle wiper it didn’t fit right and tilted forward and down. I don’t really know if there is something wrong with it.
how do you zoom out in timelapse mode? v
the zoom out is digitally added in editing 😊(It's called a ken burns)
The reason most people put the bambu lab logo on thier models is to give it more popularity
why do you think this adds popularity? I'm honestly asking... I was always searching for the model without a logo haha
Can someone please tell me where I can get pla filament in flesh skin typical white person color. Elegoo suggested beige, but that is way too pale and towards yellowish. So far I bought two different rolls and they lack that slight pink, tan, olive, combination that makes skin tone. Please help. Thanks
Hey 😊 have you tried just googling for "skin color PLA" I found one from creality. Also there's a shop here that has a line of 4 different skin tones. Not sure where you're located so it might not make sense to send a link for a German retailer....
The drying bags in the original contain a salt not silica gel !!!
Saw a video some days ago pointing this out so discard the original ones !!
Thanks for this info 😊 !
Nice. Thank you. Subscribed.
Thanks for the sub! Happy to have you on the channel 😊
you told about the 3 extra silica holders. but what about those behind in the AMS. i see many say print the box and use silica balls in them also. why dont you talk about them ? dont you need it when those 3 in front or why ? and also what about the filter inside the X1C i know some made a box also so you can use pills for it and dont have to by the filters from bambu lab. i even think the filters only sells there. i am new user not even startet yet only build my X1C with 2 AMS. and just got a complete 0.2mm nozzle so now i am changing the 04 to the 02 because i will use 02. like 90 % of the times
Are the Bowden tubes that come from bamboo better than Capricorns? I don’t ever see anyone talking about the tubes life span
I would love an answer to this as well.
It depends if slop is desired or not.
Based on what I'm reading the P1S and X1C both come with an activated charcoal filter in the box, why would you need another?
First and amazing vid keep up the good work 🔥
Thanks it means a lot 😊 !
Couldnt you just 3D print another plate, would that suffice or am i missing something?
The resion for the Bambu Lab logo is to prevent people from trying to force it to work on other printers or for simply style.
That’s not a good reason as I can’t see anyone trying to print a dust cover as seen in this video and then try to fit it on a Creality or whatever. Also if it works on another printer then why not just have without the logo. It makes zero sense to place it there
Do you advise me to buy a P1s printer is there any cons in it?or A1
Is it worth it because i have k1 max but to much problems 😢
I wouldn't throw away the 5kg spool filament just yet unless its UV damaged. Chuck that thing inside the X1C with the bed hot and leave it in until dry.
yeah I didn't throw it away... Wanted to make a little project to build a respooler anyways and might use it with that, then I can also dry it out in smaller batches...
@@Arne.Bornheim That's a great project! You could make an interesting video by respooling a 5kg roll into 5 1kg rolls. No idea if that is cost effective though lol.
@@mrteemug5329 haha sadly it isn't really... That's why in future i'll stick to 1kg rolls i think 😊
On my x1c every connection has glue on it and I notice not all of them have the glue on ports. Do you have that and do you know how I can remove it? I think thats my biggest down point for bambu. Putting glue on everything. How can I cjange the hot end if every wires connection has glue on it?
For me the nozzle wiper also didnt work for botj my printers. Alot of times it just wouldn't cut but than after the update it cuts perfectly on both. I think they changed the cooldown time before the cuts.
If the glue is in the way you might consider just removing it with pliers or push it off with a pen... But please make sure only to do it on the right connections. You need to take out 3 of the connectors to change the hot end. Some other connectors are for other stuff and stay in.
And cool to hear the nozzle wiper mod works for you!
@@Arne.Bornheim thnx for the tips! I'l have to be very carefully removing the glue :)
you didn't mention the mod you used to fit a 5kg spool in your ams
Im honestly moving away from big filament rolls. 5kg are super hard to use up and the price difference is not that big. With big spools you have problems with them drawing moisture and they’re generally annoying to handle. So unless you use a print farm or really know the big project you use it for it might not be worth it.
That said I use a model called TUSH
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4325487
Is your job 3d printing/modeling
No I’m mainly a freelance videographer but I spend a lot of time on these videos 😊
think the z-axis bearings are sealed so i don't think those covers matter too much.
Probably not! But a couple minutes of printing and some grams of filament why not 😉
I think people add the logo so that it looks official thinking more people will download it generating for them more points.
Don't throw out the 5kg spool, dry it on the heat bed
Thanks that’s a great idea! Will see if it fits 😊
I am considering buying a 3D printer (likely a P1S). But as the climate here where I live is always relatively wet (high humidity even when the sun is burning 24/7) I'm likely gonna build a small "room in a room" for the printer, and simply put a dehumidifier in there to keep the entire room dry. This also has the extra benefit of containing any fumes.
Good mods, welcome to May 2023.
we've invented time travel...
Ziplock bags night not work but garbage bags might. Just toss a hand full of descant in there with it and close it the best you can.
check out the e3d nozzles
Thanks! I'll look into it :)
@Arne.Bornheim my obsidian e3d nozzle is the best upgrade for my p1s yet. Massive improvement in layer adhesion and print quality
People putting Bambu logos everywhere because these printers looks premium and people don't want to attach something to them that will disrupt their looks.
yeah but the printer doesn't have a logo on every part... To me a grey PLA matches the printer way more than a green logo
@@Arne.Bornheim that's a matter of personal preference. Some people just go a little bit overboard with branding their parts 😄
@@Arne.BornheimI agree. The logos placed all over honestly makes it look tacky as all hell. I do the same as you do and look for the models without the logo or see how easily removable they are if I can’t find one that exists already.
10:01 What are those feet and do you think they help?
Those are the anti vibration feet from the official bambu store 😊
@@Arne.BornheimI just added those a few weeks ago. I can’t decide if they help or hurt the print quality. My table shakes less, but the printer itself vibrates like crazy now!
haha yeah i know exactly what you mean. Not sure myself but I've kept them on for now
why not re-spool the 5kg filament down to 1kg and dry it
Really nice video. Especially the timelapse mod seems interesting for me. Do you recommend to place the printer on a workshop trolley? I am currently searching for something similar to securely place my printer but haven't decided yet. Currently its on the floor which is not that nice ;)
Thanks a lot :) !
in terms of the workbench: it still introduces wobble in the printer, since I dont have the wheels locked off either. That being said I have no problems with printing :)
The AMS feeder is a joke isnt it? I never had to press those. I just pull the filament out or put it in.
I've always said if a company wants me to show their banding. They should pay me.
That's why when I had both my k1 and k1 max i removed the 'creality' wording and on sometimes scratch out the makers name. also on all my cars i would debadge them.
If i get a bew mobile phone and the shop offers me a bag. I decline. One i don't want people knowing I just bought a new phone and also they plaster their name on the badge. They want me to walk around with a bag that's says 'O2' or 'Vodafone' they pay me
Well dpne
Thank you ! 🙏
People do logos for continuity. Same people as the neat freaks u called out.
Every single thing you mentioned has been in like 100 other printed mod videos for the last two years. I was hoping for at least one original mod.
Ooh look. Another RUclipsr who’s downloaded the same models as 2000 other RUclipsrs.
Anno 2024 and you're copying content from years ago passing the opportunity of the 101 mods that have been released in the meantime and are super useful. Very uninspiring.
thanks for your feedback, what mods would you have liked to see?
1. If you need a poop collector. You didn't read the manual. 2. useless. 3. useless. 4. useless. 5. useless 6. useless 7. Use tweezer. 8. not useful to the average printer.
Really happy to have you on the channel. Looking forward to more great comments from you
I can agree with most of those but that desiccant holder at 5:00 is a terrible thing to print, so many retractions, there are much better versions available, vase mode versions are way nicer to print. My purge container is just an arbitrary square food container with 2 magnets to stick it in place, those chutes waste space on my countertop. Liked the DSLR camera mod and the extra lights are mandatory if you want decent video files, thanks for including those.
I see another on Thingiverse: Spiral Vase Desiccant Box for Bambu AMS by ThomPerry63.
Do you have a specific dessicant holder you would recommend? this one printed fine for me and I'm happy so far :)
In terms of the chute: yeah it's honestly whatever works i think haha
I'm definitely looking at extra lights in the printer. maybe for an upcoming episode...
Agreed. I tried it multiple times in PAHT-CF so the dessicant can be dried without taking out of the holders, but there were so many retractions it kept breaking the filament. I printed the SPILLPROOF GRID AMS Dessicant pods Round and the pods may not be as large, but they print great and way faster.
@@mrhankbotfulwhy thank you! 🙏 ❤🎉
@@Arne.Bornheimcan’t post links here (comment is auto deleted) but as the other commenter mentioned, the SPILLPROOF ones are both recommended by Bambu Lab (there’s a maker supply “kit” for it now) and allow air from the AMS to reach the hygrometer without passing through desiccant beads like the one you printed does. They are narrower in part because of this, but also allow insertion and removal while there are spools in the AMS, for max desiccant usage there’s a double-up option as well on all of the listings. There’s 9 designs of the SPILLPROOF boxes for various popular hygrometers #shamelessplug
@@Arne.Bornheim I suggest “Vase mode desiccant holder for the Bambu Lab AMS” by mortalwombat. Found it on Printables. I know there are one or two others but I didn’t save those. It’s important to remember that you want a large area of desiccant exposed to the air in the AMS to be most effective. A layer in the back holders need not be thick so a thin holder there would also help. I “recharged” my green desiccant pellets back to yellow in about 15 minutes I’m a toaster oven in a tray. My temperature was set to 125 degrees C. Put them in when it’s already warmed up else they get toasted by the direct heat when it heats up from cold.
Sometimes bamboo makes some contest and people put their logo there I'm guessing to have more chances to win even though it doesn't even change anything.
This honestly makes a lot of sense to me !