True, I meticulously tweaked my Ender 3 V3 SE and my prints are just as good as anything I see on the internet. You have to be willing to sit there and turn adjustment screws little by little like you have OCD though. 🤣
I love how you’re calm and collected and factual, no click bait, no screaming at camera and wildly shaky hand held video, very refreshing, I love the honest tests. Thanks for doing what you do
I’m glad you did this video. Every time I see videos trying out these panda parts, it seems like they struggle and have to make some sort of an accommodation and then give it their approval as if they didn’t have to make adjustments. While you put all of the “upgrades“ together and did one attempt and kept it straightforward.
really the face is what should be the change, doing the extruder is what increased your weight. For Core X/Y printers, weight is the enemy, that is why you go with lighter materials and skeletonized things. So really that front cover seems to be the best upgrade to go with since the extrusion setup in the X1 is already pretty damn perfect.
Interesting but not entirely convinced they are adding anything beyond cosmetics and perhaps durability but your initial extruder seems to answer that too... oh I wished we'd hear your thoughts/review on the revo hotend ! will you make a dedicated analysis?
That does look really cool, but all that "not wear" and minimal dust you found in the stock head is going to be much higher with a completely open system of gears. That lack of wear will turn into wear with the increase in particulates getting in, and this will also serve to gunk up gears and bearings and start to affect prints over time. Super cool looking though, and looks really sturdy. Too bad the gains, if any, are nigh on immeasurable. Awesome video over all.
For our farm of printers with over 3000 hours print time on some, the stock setup is already amazing. Usually, the main difference you'd get in print quality is due to your settings & quality of material used. Definitely upgrading some partz may yield some improvements, but considering that bambu printers are already fantastic, I doubt you'll see huge improvements.
These Bambu Upgrades videos just prove again and again that it's just a big waste of money and time to ""upgrade"" a Bambu Labs printer because there is nothing to upgrade. We are all just collectively suffering from Stockholm Syndrome by having lived with shitty bottom of the barrel Creality printers and their clones, and their clones of the clones.
I would not have expected the print quality to have changed. My expectation is if you print with carbon or wood, then the longevity of the system would increase.
I'm anticipating potentially getting a X1C for Christmas this year, and your videos have been amazing. They've really given me some insight on building useful things with a 3d printer-- and I can't wait to get started. I've subscribed and will keep following. Keep up the good work. Content and quality are excellent.
Biqu (and BTT) products are very professionally made. I have never had issues with anything I've gotten from them. I have the gear set for both my X1-c and one of my A1s but haven't installed them yet. The timing of this video is great for my needs! And I have the air duct on my OG Bambu cover, but now do I want to spend the $ on the Biqu extruder frame and that way cool cover? It seems for improvements they aren't really a big step forward, but I do love the aesthetics of that modified print head.
I have installed a Jetpack on my P1S yesterday, and i was shocked when i saw it in your video. Not because of the timing coincidence, but because the design of your jetpack is so much different from mine! the part cooling fan cutout is in the middle, just like on yours, but the fan does have a problem with the side of the jetpack. more precisely it binds, and bulges out the side, because the fan's housing has some tabs that holds the 2 part of the fan housing together, and the jetpack does not accomodate to this. on the original cover there is a thinner area to give some space to the tabs, but the jetpack looks like it was designed for a fan that does not have these tabs. on the other hand, on your video there is plenty of space between the part cooling fan, and the side of the jetpack cover.. so either there is a difference between your jetpack, and mine, or the part cooling fan is different on the P1S than on the X1C(or maybe there was some updates, since your X1C is an older model, and i got my P1S this summer). Anyways, i had to make a cutout on the jetpack for the fan's housing.
when you say "identical print" at 11:01, was it the saved gcode file from the first print to run the 2nd print or is it sliced once & sliced again? re-slicing for new prints will very likely be different
Wasn’t going to do this upgrade after the fan duct but I do kinda like the skeleton look as an alternative system I can swap. I may end up doing the same upgrades just because of the new extruder upgrade and do the new fan housing as well. Thanks for the review, something to look forward to in the coming months =)
For printing small lettering, I found it helpful to experiment with changing the extrusion width. I have found Orca Slicer is very good at representing these changes. I am always looking for how good coverage is on the first layer. This may help with getting that label printed properly.
What print profile did you use for the control prints. When you took that first cube off of the plate it looked a bit rough. I use the .16mm High Quality for my prints and a test cube with that profile printed on my X1C looks a lot better than what you had. I could see imperfections in the layers and that wasn’t even with a closeup shot of it. I also used the BiQu jet on my X1C and I actually had a degradation in print quality using it, so I switched back to the stock shroud.
For the label, if you're painting in orca or Bambu slicer, you need to paint the sides and tabs black as well. If you paint the front surface black but leave the side white, the slicer interprets that as that side face needs to stay white as much as possible
I really think you're making good videos, but I just wanted to give you some feedback. It seemed like a large part of the video was almost a turtorial style step by step guide on how to install these parts which I haven't been convinced to buy yet. Like at the end of the video where the upgrades essentially weren't worth it, I felt like I just wasted 80% of my time since now I know how to install a product I'll never buy.
That results were very similar suggests the upgrades have minimal influence, though I think the skeletal extruder cage is very cool and seeing what is going on has some utility.
Nice review as always, looks like the upgrade is not as significant in terms of performance. For smaller nozzle prints, I tend to slow the print speed down a lot (10-15mm/s) to achieve a good result. Thank you
Yeah I don’t get it either. I love the channel and the testing but when the prints look that bad both before and after there most be something else going on.
I was wondering the same, my stock p1s produces better quality than that with generic PLA profiles. I wonder if his X1C has enough hours on it that it's starting to get some toolhead wobble. The only real flaw with these machines is those graphite x axis bushings and the idler pulleys, usually around 3000-5000 hours.
For the 0.2mm nozzle, did you change it in the printer settings? In Bambu Studio: Device Tab -> Printer Parts. In Bambu Handy: Device Tab->Hamberger Menu->Nozzle.
You mean the wooden bowl that has been sanded down to an almost mirror smooth surface experiences less friction than the layered plastic bowl that's had no finishing done whatsoever? Who would have thought... Other than that, an interesting video. I think I agree that opening all of that area up to dust is a bad idea for the minimal if not non-existent improvement the 'upgraded' parts provide. All the debris you saw inside before seemed to be filament dust, not external material finding it's way in. Now it's open to the air you'll get a lot more other material getting in there. Be most interesting to see a side by side of a stock unit and an upgraded unit over say six months and see whose looking worse for wear at the end.
Probably a side effect of using loctite and it being an imperfect fit. Personally I would've used silicone or lithium based grease around the outside of the bearing instead of loctite.
Realistically you don't want the outside of the bearing to slip at all and the best way to do that is to get a perfect friction fit. However, because its not a perfect fit, he's chosen to use loctite to close the gap. If the loctite comes loose and there's slippage, it'll wear away the bearing cage or the frame. Using grease instead allows it to slip outside of the bearing while reducing the wear and tear on the bearing cage or the frame its fit into.
@@asteliazI think I will just stick with my cheaper Bambu Lab extruder, it doesn't look as cool, but it holds the bearings tight without locktite, it weighs less, is quieter, and it includes the gears and filament sensor
My only real question would be - does this assembly make it easier to remove clogs/jammed filament. That's one of the main pain points for me on the BL hot end assembly. If you get heat creep the filament squishes out inside the assembly and prevents pulling it out, requiring a complete hot end disassembly, fix this problem and i would consider it a genuine upgrade.
So it wasnt worth it. Perhaps when my extruder needs replaced due to failure its an option. But i only see one advantage, it looks like you could blow out the filiment dust and filiment cutting particles out with compressed air and no disassembly.
It looks like the models printed with the BIQU setup may be slightly over extruded. I think it shows up more in the larger model. Just my two cents. Keep making interesting content. I still love my Plus4 and hope that it becomes successful enough to attract 3rd party support from manufactures like BIQU.
Just curious about that grease you added: might it not potentially introduce some contaminants into the filament/extrusion flow? Also: was the E3D hotend you had before the E3D/Biqu Revo? (I’m thinking about that upgrade for mine). Thanks!
they're not on the same track, the filament is on another sied of the gears so as long as you don't get messy with it, it would not be contaimnated. the stock one is also lubed iirc.
Nice video and review , I am just gonna stick to stock . If it ain't broke then no need to fix it . Also what is the deal with you wearing gloves ? Like are you just not wanting to get your hands dirty or is it habit from not wanting to touch the plate and get your oils on it ?
I have never heard of issues with the stock extruder. Is this really a solution to a problem? Or is this a case of "it's better because it's different"?
So why waste the money for an upgrade that just looks close to the stock setup? If BTT wants to send it out I would try it because I love tinkering, however to some there may be value in the looks of it. Thanks for the video.
Been using ben2c mesh for some time. several grams aren't worth it. And ben2c 2gen ducts are worse than 1 gen ducts, so I use mesh with 1 gen duct which is slightly better than native bbl duct imo. Skeletal look is nice in general but I'd advise getting those mods only if you're bored and have extra money. Won't improve anything.
Just a point that comparing single prints is not a reliable way to determine small differences. The filament varies somewhat throughout the roll, and that variability may mask single item results. You really have to perform several prints and estimate the average quality. (At least three, but five would be better.) Also any other variable should be eliminated if feasible. Room temperature could be a factor, for example.
It was my mistake when I decided to get p1p instead of p1s because the price... as result I added only enclosure kit :D Don't repeat my mistake if you want a more versatile printer because the P1P is suitable for a much narrower range of tasks. I managed to try many upgrades, but of all that was, I only left a copper heating block from a well-known company and brass replaceable nozzles that print much better with filaments such as PLA and PETG, since I print with them 80% of the time. I also have a set of nozzles for abrasive ones, but I use them extremely rarely. 1000+ hrs and I dont see any reasons to add or change something ... the only thing I don't understand is the use of stainless steel and the very design of the heating block and nozzle - why are they one part. Marketing? maybe but in my case it's a minor problem
It would make more sense as an upgrade, but you can buy the official hardened extruder gear and just replace that for less than $20. You will want a hardened nozzle as well
My experience: Panda Extruder - Waste of time. It’s not ready for market. It exerts too much pressure on filament especially with the claw. The bearings also cause an ungodly rattle. This throws off the frequency calibration. Panda Claw - Too heavy for no real benefit. Also creates too much pressure on the filament in conjunction with the extruder. I also did the Panda Revo. This was the most disappointing. It’s not been made correctly. It’s 0.3mm too narrow at the head of the heatsink where is goes into the extruder. This causes the extruder housing to warp if you snug the bolts up, and if you don’t they come loose. If you snug them up they also go through and hit the gears because of the 0.3mm problem. 3/10
Interesting that you used loctite on the bearings, personally I would've used a silicone or lithium based grease so the whole bearing cage is free to spin in that slot in addition to the balls inside
The bearing spinning in is slot is a worse case scenario. It will wear out the slot, possibly cause galling, and reduce precision. You want a bearing cage to remain still.
I think we agree we don't want to wear out the slot. You're right, the better method is to remove friction completely vs reduce it, but even with that being the end goal, I still don't think loctite was the right solution. Check out the weird bearing spin at 11:40 In this scenario where its going to spin anyway, you're better to use grease.
@asteliaz having worked in aerospace, machined bearing pockets, and reading schematics, compounds like Locktite can work great. Provided you use the right one, and the tolerances are within spec for that compound. If I noticed it wasn't at least a light press-in, I'd send it back as defective. They really should machine that with tighter tolerances and install it in-house. But that's asking a lot for their price point. I think this is another case of "upgrades" can be worse than the original equipment. :D I saw that a lot working in the automotive aftermarket, so it's definitely not just this case and industry.
i like it when you pronounce it Bechu, it aligns more with it’s chinese name 必趣. That’s nice attention to detail (or written in the review guide?) but yeah, Beque is definitely not how it is supposed to be pronounced.
Your build platform is loose or warped or something. Or the printer isn’t level. The starboard side of the Benchy looks like Gilligan got ahold of it. The fact that the defect remained after the “upgrade”, eliminates the tool head as the cause. I thought the X1 was supposed to produce near flawless prints. My K1C has a light year on it and it’s still pumps out the near 14 minute Benchy with barely a layer line.
The brass gear doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. I’ve been eyeing the panda claw but adding mass is counter productive. I’d like to see a nylon gear with their extruder gears. Nylon gears makes more sense against wear as well
@3:12 One magnet is missing, and another one sticks out (by the thickness of a magnet) How to tell you without hurting your feelings....🤔 Ï think I found your missing magnet. It's just sitting 2" away from its original location 😉
@@xxnuclearss1xx Its sitting on a rock solid platform stand that is not only level but also bracketed it wo the wall and floor and has been laser leveled to dead straight. Did maintenance to it a month ago at 1000hrs. It has never given the quality that Bambu promised or that paid Reviewers over inflate. Same thing with the other Bambu I have (P1S) they just dont have the super quality that is bragged about. Bambu are overhyped and overpriced IMO from using them
@@anthonylong5870 dang, that sucks. See I want to buy one but that's exactly what I'm worried about. It's made out to be the best thing ever and knowing my luck it'll be worse than my Creality machines.
I debated on some of these upgrades, but at this point it just seems like chasing unicorns for minimal improvement. The CNC extruder body and the CNC claw seems like the most useful for long term wear, not for print improvement. I absolutely hate the look of the front cover. Just looks cheap DIY feel to it, not my cup of tea.
The cube section and the benchy would have me super disappointed with my Ender 3v2. I wonder if those were fast and sloppy print profiles (draft) or something.
i think bambu dont need no changes... u only need these hotendes if u want to print ultra fast... u also need to know how to ultra fine tune it then! wich also wears off ur mashine faster....
I'm not really concerned about the looks, I would have loved to see a performance difference rather and since the is barely any change, I say it's not worth it at all, unless it's cheaper that a full replacement and the printer in question is not working at all and you are forced to replace it anyway.
changing looks is as simple as printing in a different color. Don’t upgrade something just cuz online said its way better, bottom line is ur prints looked the same so why spend the extra money and mess with ur printer
So, basically, it's really a waste of money to do those "upgrade" since you don't really benefit from them. Better safe those moneys, and wait tell hopeful SOON they are releasing a BIGGER Bambu Lab, I REALLY hope for at least 350x350350.... IF they do, I buy it right away!
"The only modification I'm leaving on is the modification the Jetpack makes, making this ENTIRE comparison worthless." - Way to go. 10:20 Yes, go figure, the only upgrade from stock that would directly impact extruded plastic cooling was left in place. This was useless. You made a pointless video. Compare against stock. ACTUAL stock. 10:40 Whoa WTF is wrong with your Benchy? The same question for your cubes actually. Your printer is fuqt. Most people try to get rid of the hull line, you injected Botox into it to emphasize it.
The more time I spend looking into upgrades for bambu printers, the more I realize that all you need is at their store and any upgrade provide maybe 1% difference, I mean, you already have linear rails and a pulley system, unless you load it with close to the pulley torque capacity, it's not going to make a difference really weather it's a skeleton or a enclose unit. But yeah, even those cryoplates, not only being ugly but the smooth plate from bambu can also print cool, it's just pointless a lot of this stuff.
BQ products cannot be considered as upgrades, they are just useless in 99% of the cases. Adding more metal prone to keep heat inside the head isn't a good idea imho.
Bad review. Bambu replaced the straight cut gears with helical gears a very long time ago--if you're still running those gears you must not print very much. The Panda Jet is 5.03g lighter not 6g (26.09g vs 21.06g), and that's if you remove the label plate from the Panda. Moving onto the next part, nobody should buy the Panda Extruder. They advertise that it's 20% lighter but it's only 1.2g lighter (43.4g vs. 42.2g with Bambu gears and filament sensor installed which is 2.8% lighter)--for much less $40 you could buy a few M3 titanium or aluminum screws and save 2-3g. The bearings fit loose and rattle in the Panda Extruder. Because of the aluminum structure, all the heat from the hotend goes straight into the bearings. The Panda Claw is also a major downgrade, since it's extremely heavy and the brass gears don't isolate motor resonant harmonics. The main gear itself weighs 16.93g vs. Bambu's 7.81g and the swingarm is 7.82g vs. Bambu's 6.50g (24.75g vs 14.31g, a weight penalty of 10.44g). In the event that you get a filament jam, the Bambu's plastic teeth will flex over the top of the motor spur gear, causing no damage, whereas the brass teeth will not.
An aluminum upgrade is worth only for printers like the Prusa MK3 or MK4, the bambu labs printers don't really benefit this change. so in the end it's a waste of money.
From my experience, nailing down perfect filament profiles and print settings makes the most difference. The stock printer is already amazingly good.
I have 1000+ hours on the stock hotend. it's awesome
Exactly. If you are upgrading things, do them one at a time, not all at once
@@jebus182 i'll upgrade my hotend if it "breaks". not replacing a perfectly functional one imo
Drying your filament once a week (or just before use) is HUGE
True, I meticulously tweaked my Ender 3 V3 SE and my prints are just as good as anything I see on the internet. You have to be willing to sit there and turn adjustment screws little by little like you have OCD though. 🤣
I love how you’re calm and collected and factual, no click bait, no screaming at camera and wildly shaky hand held video, very refreshing, I love the honest tests.
Thanks for doing what you do
I’m glad you did this video. Every time I see videos trying out these panda parts, it seems like they struggle and have to make some sort of an accommodation and then give it their approval as if they didn’t have to make adjustments. While you put all of the “upgrades“ together and did one attempt and kept it straightforward.
Maybe the missing magnet on the bottom of the stock cover is stuck to the magnet that is longer on the top?
really the face is what should be the change, doing the extruder is what increased your weight. For Core X/Y printers, weight is the enemy, that is why you go with lighter materials and skeletonized things. So really that front cover seems to be the best upgrade to go with since the extrusion setup in the X1 is already pretty damn perfect.
Interesting but not entirely convinced they are adding anything beyond cosmetics and perhaps durability but your initial extruder seems to answer that too... oh I wished we'd hear your thoughts/review on the revo hotend ! will you make a dedicated analysis?
That does look really cool, but all that "not wear" and minimal dust you found in the stock head is going to be much higher with a completely open system of gears. That lack of wear will turn into wear with the increase in particulates getting in, and this will also serve to gunk up gears and bearings and start to affect prints over time.
Super cool looking though, and looks really sturdy. Too bad the gains, if any, are nigh on immeasurable. Awesome video over all.
For our farm of printers with over 3000 hours print time on some, the stock setup is already amazing. Usually, the main difference you'd get in print quality is due to your settings & quality of material used. Definitely upgrading some partz may yield some improvements, but considering that bambu printers are already fantastic, I doubt you'll see huge improvements.
These Bambu Upgrades videos just prove again and again that it's just a big waste of money and time to ""upgrade"" a Bambu Labs printer because there is nothing to upgrade. We are all just collectively suffering from Stockholm Syndrome by having lived with shitty bottom of the barrel Creality printers and their clones, and their clones of the clones.
Well I see z-lines on those prints and P1 X1 have VFA, my Ender3 and Neptune printers do not have those.
@@eaman11 are you printing 0.5mm layer height or something wtf
I would not have expected the print quality to have changed. My expectation is if you print with carbon or wood, then the longevity of the system would increase.
The only good upgrade would be the cryogrip build plate to save money on heating the bed
Panda Revo. The easy nozzle swaps on p1 is very nice. P1 doesn't have the easy swaps that x1c has
I'm anticipating potentially getting a X1C for Christmas this year, and your videos have been amazing. They've really given me some insight on building useful things with a 3d printer-- and I can't wait to get started. I've subscribed and will keep following. Keep up the good work. Content and quality are excellent.
Biqu (and BTT) products are very professionally made. I have never had issues with anything I've gotten from them. I have the gear set for both my X1-c and one of my A1s but haven't installed them yet. The timing of this video is great for my needs! And I have the air duct on my OG Bambu cover, but now do I want to spend the $ on the Biqu extruder frame and that way cool cover? It seems for improvements they aren't really a big step forward, but I do love the aesthetics of that modified print head.
Thank you for your great work and testing. Keep making!!
I have installed a Jetpack on my P1S yesterday, and i was shocked when i saw it in your video. Not because of the timing coincidence, but because the design of your jetpack is so much different from mine! the part cooling fan cutout is in the middle, just like on yours, but the fan does have a problem with the side of the jetpack. more precisely it binds, and bulges out the side, because the fan's housing has some tabs that holds the 2 part of the fan housing together, and the jetpack does not accomodate to this. on the original cover there is a thinner area to give some space to the tabs, but the jetpack looks like it was designed for a fan that does not have these tabs.
on the other hand, on your video there is plenty of space between the part cooling fan, and the side of the jetpack cover.. so either there is a difference between your jetpack, and mine, or the part cooling fan is different on the P1S than on the X1C(or maybe there was some updates, since your X1C is an older model, and i got my P1S this summer).
Anyways, i had to make a cutout on the jetpack for the fan's housing.
I love this test! I have to say after watching it I’m going to stick with my stock Bambu parts.
when you say "identical print" at 11:01, was it the saved gcode file from the first print to run the 2nd print or is it sliced once & sliced again? re-slicing for new prints will very likely be different
Thanks for the great and informative video! I might be upgrading my X1 Carbon now 😬😅
Wasn’t going to do this upgrade after the fan duct but I do kinda like the skeleton look as an alternative system I can swap. I may end up doing the same upgrades just because of the new extruder upgrade and do the new fan housing as well. Thanks for the review, something to look forward to in the coming months =)
For printing small lettering, I found it helpful to experiment with changing the extrusion width. I have found Orca Slicer is very good at representing these changes. I am always looking for how good coverage is on the first layer. This may help with getting that label printed properly.
What print profile did you use for the control prints. When you took that first cube off of the plate it looked a bit rough. I use the .16mm High Quality for my prints and a test cube with that profile printed on my X1C looks a lot better than what you had. I could see imperfections in the layers and that wasn’t even with a closeup shot of it. I also used the BiQu jet on my X1C and I actually had a degradation in print quality using it, so I switched back to the stock shroud.
For the label, if you're painting in orca or Bambu slicer, you need to paint the sides and tabs black as well. If you paint the front surface black but leave the side white, the slicer interprets that as that side face needs to stay white as much as possible
I really think you're making good videos, but I just wanted to give you some feedback. It seemed like a large part of the video was almost a turtorial style step by step guide on how to install these parts which I haven't been convinced to buy yet. Like at the end of the video where the upgrades essentially weren't worth it, I felt like I just wasted 80% of my time since now I know how to install a product I'll never buy.
Good video thanks.
I’ll stick with stock parts then 👍
That results were very similar suggests the upgrades have minimal influence, though I think the skeletal extruder cage is very cool and seeing what is going on has some utility.
Nice review as always, looks like the upgrade is not as significant in terms of performance. For smaller nozzle prints, I tend to slow the print speed down a lot (10-15mm/s) to achieve a good result. Thank you
Was it faster to print with the upgraded nozzle? Or these upgrades are eye candies only?
I'm wondering how you're managing to get such terrible-looking prints out of the X1C.
Yeah I don’t get it either. I love the channel and the testing but when the prints look that bad both before and after there most be something else going on.
Bambu fanboy spotted
@3707_hereDo you think those prints looked good?
creality K1 user, complete novice, but after bed leveling, print settings and adjust jerk, my prints look way better then the prints shown today
I was wondering the same, my stock p1s produces better quality than that with generic PLA profiles. I wonder if his X1C has enough hours on it that it's starting to get some toolhead wobble. The only real flaw with these machines is those graphite x axis bushings and the idler pulleys, usually around 3000-5000 hours.
For the 0.2mm nozzle, did you change it in the printer settings? In Bambu Studio: Device Tab -> Printer Parts. In Bambu Handy: Device Tab->Hamberger Menu->Nozzle.
You mean the wooden bowl that has been sanded down to an almost mirror smooth surface experiences less friction than the layered plastic bowl that's had no finishing done whatsoever? Who would have thought...
Other than that, an interesting video. I think I agree that opening all of that area up to dust is a bad idea for the minimal if not non-existent improvement the 'upgraded' parts provide. All the debris you saw inside before seemed to be filament dust, not external material finding it's way in. Now it's open to the air you'll get a lot more other material getting in there. Be most interesting to see a side by side of a stock unit and an upgraded unit over say six months and see whose looking worse for wear at the end.
I have also done this setup and thi k it's just fine and will probably last longer.
At 11:40 there is a weird eccentric movement at the bearing.
Probably a side effect of using loctite and it being an imperfect fit. Personally I would've used silicone or lithium based grease around the outside of the bearing instead of loctite.
@@asteliaz why would you use grease instead of loctite?
Realistically you don't want the outside of the bearing to slip at all and the best way to do that is to get a perfect friction fit. However, because its not a perfect fit, he's chosen to use loctite to close the gap. If the loctite comes loose and there's slippage, it'll wear away the bearing cage or the frame. Using grease instead allows it to slip outside of the bearing while reducing the wear and tear on the bearing cage or the frame its fit into.
@@asteliazI think I will just stick with my cheaper Bambu Lab extruder, it doesn't look as cool, but it holds the bearings tight without locktite, it weighs less, is quieter, and it includes the gears and filament sensor
Okay, now i'm regretting skipping the Black Friday sale... I'll have to wait until the next mega sale.
would be nice to see someone doing more upgrades to the k1 max.
I've already asked BQ about releasing upgrades for the Qidi Q1 Pro, but if you could as a youtuber who's talked to them that'd be awesome
Id seen a comment on reddit about the panda claw having excessive "clicking" how was your experience with the noise from the panda claw?
Wow! What print profile did you use for the Benchies?! When you showed a closeup of them during the comparisons they looked really bad.
Have you seen the images of the H2D from Bambu?
An image from 2022?
@@kawag2780 😂😂
My only real question would be - does this assembly make it easier to remove clogs/jammed filament. That's one of the main pain points for me on the BL hot end assembly. If you get heat creep the filament squishes out inside the assembly and prevents pulling it out, requiring a complete hot end disassembly, fix this problem and i would consider it a genuine upgrade.
I just reverted to full stock. The improvements where minor and caused issues with nozzle cleaning accidents. I’d rather have a reliable machine.
Nice! Curious about ABS/ASA differences
So it wasnt worth it. Perhaps when my extruder needs replaced due to failure its an option. But i only see one advantage, it looks like you could blow out the filiment dust and filiment cutting particles out with compressed air and no disassembly.
It looks like the models printed with the BIQU setup may be slightly over extruded. I think it shows up more in the larger model. Just my two cents. Keep making interesting content. I still love my Plus4 and hope that it becomes successful enough to attract 3rd party support from manufactures like BIQU.
Just curious about that grease you added: might it not potentially introduce some contaminants into the filament/extrusion flow? Also: was the E3D hotend you had before the E3D/Biqu Revo? (I’m thinking about that upgrade for mine). Thanks!
they're not on the same track, the filament is on another sied of the gears so as long as you don't get messy with it, it would not be contaimnated. the stock one is also lubed iirc.
I like have thought these upgrades would. Increase the tolerances the printer is capable of manufacturing to?
Nice video and review , I am just gonna stick to stock . If it ain't broke then no need to fix it . Also what is the deal with you wearing gloves ? Like are you just not wanting to get your hands dirty or is it habit from not wanting to touch the plate and get your oils on it ?
I have never heard of issues with the stock extruder. Is this really a solution to a problem? Or is this a case of "it's better because it's different"?
Looks like it might make sense if any of the stock parts wear out or break, but otherwise just leave it stock.
I wonder what the backlash is on those RNC gears? 😮 Just some really fine-looking engineering went into those!
So why waste the money for an upgrade that just looks close to the stock setup? If BTT wants to send it out I would try it because I love tinkering, however to some there may be value in the looks of it. Thanks for the video.
Looks cool, but to me more open = more crap getting in the gears over time.
Been using ben2c mesh for some time. several grams aren't worth it.
And ben2c 2gen ducts are worse than 1 gen ducts, so I use mesh with 1 gen duct which is slightly better than native bbl duct imo.
Skeletal look is nice in general but I'd advise getting those mods only if you're bored and have extra money. Won't improve anything.
Just a point that comparing single prints is not a reliable way to determine small differences. The filament varies somewhat throughout the roll, and that variability may mask single item results. You really have to perform several prints and estimate the average quality. (At least three, but five would be better.)
Also any other variable should be eliminated if feasible. Room temperature could be a factor, for example.
It was my mistake when I decided to get p1p instead of p1s because the price... as result I added only enclosure kit :D
Don't repeat my mistake if you want a more versatile printer because the P1P is suitable for a much narrower range of tasks.
I managed to try many upgrades, but of all that was, I only left a copper heating block from a well-known company and brass replaceable nozzles that print much better with filaments such as PLA and PETG, since I print with them 80% of the time. I also have a set of nozzles for abrasive ones, but I use them extremely rarely.
1000+ hrs and I dont see any reasons to add or change something ...
the only thing I don't understand is the use of stainless steel and the very design of the heating block and nozzle - why are they one part. Marketing? maybe but in my case it's a minor problem
I really want to see someone replace lead screws with ball screws on their x1c
Would probably be great improvement but with diminishing returns…
Would it be better for the P1P or P1S rather than the X1 so you can print different material types?
It would make more sense as an upgrade, but you can buy the official hardened extruder gear and just replace that for less than $20. You will want a hardened nozzle as well
Do these mods to the extruder work with the P1SC?
For the money and time; unless something broke and you're replacing it, I'd say leaving the stock setup is probably the short answer here.
how many print hours do you have on printer?
My experience:
Panda Extruder - Waste of time. It’s not ready for market. It exerts too much pressure on filament especially with the claw. The bearings also cause an ungodly rattle. This throws off the frequency calibration.
Panda Claw - Too heavy for no real benefit. Also creates too much pressure on the filament in conjunction with the extruder.
I also did the Panda Revo. This was the most disappointing. It’s not been made correctly. It’s 0.3mm too narrow at the head of the heatsink where is goes into the extruder. This causes the extruder housing to warp if you snug the bolts up, and if you don’t they come loose. If you snug them up they also go through and hit the gears because of the 0.3mm problem.
3/10
I wonder where those heavy layer lines come from`?
Interesting that you used loctite on the bearings, personally I would've used a silicone or lithium based grease so the whole bearing cage is free to spin in that slot in addition to the balls inside
The bearing spinning in is slot is a worse case scenario. It will wear out the slot, possibly cause galling, and reduce precision. You want a bearing cage to remain still.
I think we agree we don't want to wear out the slot. You're right, the better method is to remove friction completely vs reduce it, but even with that being the end goal, I still don't think loctite was the right solution. Check out the weird bearing spin at 11:40
In this scenario where its going to spin anyway, you're better to use grease.
@asteliaz having worked in aerospace, machined bearing pockets, and reading schematics, compounds like Locktite can work great. Provided you use the right one, and the tolerances are within spec for that compound. If I noticed it wasn't at least a light press-in, I'd send it back as defective. They really should machine that with tighter tolerances and install it in-house. But that's asking a lot for their price point.
I think this is another case of "upgrades" can be worse than the original equipment. :D I saw that a lot working in the automotive aftermarket, so it's definitely not just this case and industry.
if I own only one printer I dont mind to customize it. but I have too many do my best not mess up profile make work harder.
i like it when you pronounce it Bechu, it aligns more with it’s chinese name 必趣. That’s nice attention to detail (or written in the review guide?) but yeah, Beque is definitely not how it is supposed to be pronounced.
Your build platform is loose or warped or something. Or the printer isn’t level. The starboard side of the Benchy looks like Gilligan got ahold of it. The fact that the defect remained after the “upgrade”, eliminates the tool head as the cause.
I thought the X1 was supposed to produce near flawless prints. My K1C has a light year on it and it’s still pumps out the near 14 minute Benchy with barely a layer line.
The brass gear doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. I’ve been eyeing the panda claw but adding mass is counter productive. I’d like to see a nylon gear with their extruder gears. Nylon gears makes more sense against wear as well
@3:12 One magnet is missing, and another one sticks out (by the thickness of a magnet)
How to tell you without hurting your feelings....🤔
Ï think I found your missing magnet. It's just sitting 2" away from its original location 😉
It's a lot to spend for a different look, however some people like to upgrade their cars at no mechanical or mileage advantage, just not for me.
My P1P has crap quality. Layer lines on anything i print. Layer shift on anything over 10mm high as well
Be sure it is sitting on a stable surface and maybe also grease the rails. Might help, I dunno?
@@xxnuclearss1xx Its sitting on a rock solid platform stand that is not only level but also bracketed it wo the wall and floor and has been laser leveled to dead straight. Did maintenance to it a month ago at 1000hrs. It has never given the quality that Bambu promised or that paid Reviewers over inflate. Same thing with the other Bambu I have (P1S) they just dont have the super quality that is bragged about. Bambu are overhyped and overpriced IMO from using them
@@anthonylong5870 dang, that sucks. See I want to buy one but that's exactly what I'm worried about. It's made out to be the best thing ever and knowing my luck it'll be worse than my Creality machines.
I debated on some of these upgrades, but at this point it just seems like chasing unicorns for minimal improvement.
The CNC extruder body and the CNC claw seems like the most useful for long term wear, not for print improvement.
I absolutely hate the look of the front cover. Just looks cheap DIY feel to it, not my cup of tea.
It does look like there's a slight reduction in VFA's 🧐
The cube section and the benchy would have me super disappointed with my Ender 3v2. I wonder if those were fast and sloppy print profiles (draft) or something.
I think I'll pass on putting all of that weight on the toolhead. That is going to cause all sorts of problems in the future
i think bambu dont need no changes... u only need these hotendes if u want to print ultra fast... u also need to know how to ultra fine tune it then! wich also wears off ur mashine faster....
I'm not really concerned about the looks, I would have loved to see a performance difference rather and since the is barely any change, I say it's not worth it at all, unless it's cheaper that a full replacement and the printer in question is not working at all and you are forced to replace it anyway.
I see z-lines / z-wobble, either an extrusion problem or kinematic.
You should also print a VFA test to see if there's an improvement.
I could care less what it look like. It's like asking me if I care about the color of my table saw blade. It's a silly question.
Not worth it. I'm pleased with the stock performance and appearance.
the yellow gear is not doing anything! its just for show. wow... remove that for less mass?
I got the Ben2C cover & ducting for my K1 and I'll tell you now, nowhere near as good as stock air flow. Disappointing
changing looks is as simple as printing in a different color. Don’t upgrade something just cuz online said its way better, bottom line is ur prints looked the same so why spend the extra money and mess with ur printer
i have to said bambu oem is as perfect or better so no need to upgrade.
So, basically, it's really a waste of money to do those "upgrade" since you don't really benefit from them.
Better safe those moneys, and wait tell hopeful SOON they are releasing a BIGGER Bambu Lab, I REALLY hope for at least 350x350350.... IF they do, I buy it right away!
My $80 Ender 3 prints so much better than that.
The only thing upgraded was the bottom line at Biqu. Another dramatic waste of money.
"The only modification I'm leaving on is the modification the Jetpack makes, making this ENTIRE comparison worthless." - Way to go.
10:20 Yes, go figure, the only upgrade from stock that would directly impact extruded plastic cooling was left in place. This was useless. You made a pointless video.
Compare against stock. ACTUAL stock.
10:40 Whoa WTF is wrong with your Benchy? The same question for your cubes actually. Your printer is fuqt. Most people try to get rid of the hull line, you injected Botox into it to emphasize it.
The more time I spend looking into upgrades for bambu printers, the more I realize that all you need is at their store and any upgrade provide maybe 1% difference, I mean, you already have linear rails and a pulley system, unless you load it with close to the pulley torque capacity, it's not going to make a difference really weather it's a skeleton or a enclose unit.
But yeah, even those cryoplates, not only being ugly but the smooth plate from bambu can also print cool, it's just pointless a lot of this stuff.
but why? 😂
B chew
BQ products cannot be considered as upgrades, they are just useless in 99% of the cases.
Adding more metal prone to keep heat inside the head isn't a good idea imho.
Also viel Geld für keine Besserung
So there is pretty much no real point to upgrading and it is mostly a waste of money just for aesthetics.
extruder is not worth it
Bad review. Bambu replaced the straight cut gears with helical gears a very long time ago--if you're still running those gears you must not print very much. The Panda Jet is 5.03g lighter not 6g (26.09g vs 21.06g), and that's if you remove the label plate from the Panda. Moving onto the next part, nobody should buy the Panda Extruder. They advertise that it's 20% lighter but it's only 1.2g lighter (43.4g vs. 42.2g with Bambu gears and filament sensor installed which is 2.8% lighter)--for much less $40 you could buy a few M3 titanium or aluminum screws and save 2-3g. The bearings fit loose and rattle in the Panda Extruder. Because of the aluminum structure, all the heat from the hotend goes straight into the bearings. The Panda Claw is also a major downgrade, since it's extremely heavy and the brass gears don't isolate motor resonant harmonics. The main gear itself weighs 16.93g vs. Bambu's 7.81g and the swingarm is 7.82g vs. Bambu's 6.50g (24.75g vs 14.31g, a weight penalty of 10.44g). In the event that you get a filament jam, the Bambu's plastic teeth will flex over the top of the motor spur gear, causing no damage, whereas the brass teeth will not.
An aluminum upgrade is worth only for printers like the Prusa MK3 or MK4, the bambu labs printers don't really benefit this change. so in the end it's a waste of money.
Totally unnecessary
Its bi k not bishu