Thank you for this video. I have been thinking alot about this fix for cold start rattle and i think a lot of n47/n57 engines could have been saved by changing this tensioner. I changed mine last september and the rattle is gone completely.
I got a car really really cheap because the garage said it needs a new chain kit and would cost alot to do so the guy sold it me quater the value of the car i done this and sorted the problem 2 years on its still running great
For a diy repair this is a great solution if you just need the tensioner. Although I know why a garage would likely want to fit the full timing kit, because the customer expects a full warranty of the work and parts. Garages don’t want to risk doing it twice just to save other people cash. Great video, I’m sure it’ll save a lot of people a lot of money. 👍
Thanks for watching! 100% correct. Timing chains are an issue on N47 engines; it’s a well-known problem, unfortunately. What I've tried to show in this video is that, in many cases, the chain is still okay. By changing the tensioner, it will give some time for the owner to use the car, but the timing chain needs replacing eventually.
Just changed the tensioner only on a N47 bmw 1 series alongside usual oil and filter etc, completely eliminated the noise (was very noticeable) . Completely agree the tensioner is weak and short, the new one is strong and little bigger. Absolutely recommend doing this before getting the engine out. Some tips would be remove the scuttle, sway bar and the wires and vacuum pipe going across the top of the engine, then you can get a breaker bar in there easily. Was an hours work, well worth it.
Thanks for watching. Yes, unfortunately if the chain is stretched it needs replacing, as I’ve mentioned in the video. But replacing the tensioner is still worth trying as you’ve got nothing to lose, in my experience it has worked in many cases.
I replaced my upper chain tensioner at a local mechanic , the rattle sound at the cold start has gonne but I still have a chain sound at Revs from 1000 to 2800 rpms....I hope it will last a few thousand kms before I must replace the entire timing chain without snapping 😁
@@cirese22 unfortunately in your case it’s the chain, if the rattling is that bad, I would get it replaced as soon as possible. It’s not worth the risk😀
By all accounts it's the plastic chain guides which break. The last decent engine BMW made was the M47. Good for 500k miles on original chain and guides
Thank You for this great video, it's a good and easier idea to try replace it tensioner first, i will try this. I like your videos and channel, its very helpful, i am subscribed.👍👌
i have a 2014 bmw 325d m sport when i start the car the chain rattles for 3 seconds thwn gose quiet the car has done 160k not sure if i need a full chain or just the tensioner
@@kirilakmadjov8307all newer cars with chains can have a faulty tensioner, even the Mercedes OM651 and OM642 have issues with the tensioners so do the VAG 3.0d V6s
I'm puzzled as to what you're trying to say nobody is suggesting not replacing everything whilst accessing the chain for replacement also the 2 litre BMW diesel very very very definitely suffer tensioner problems especially those without regular oil change@@kirilakmadjov8307
I'm puzzled as to what you're trying to say nobody is suggesting not replacing everything whilst accessing the chain for replacement also the 2 litre BMW diesel very very very definitely suffer tensioner problems especially those without regular oil change
I had to remove Air filter box, B+ terminal and cabin filter to gain better access to the tensioner and it's still difficult to put socket on the tensioner head. I broke 2 extensions trying to undo it but it's just stuck.
Just fitted a new top tensioner to my 2010 330d (N57) with ~145k miles (FSH, factory intervals which is ~2yrs/15 miles), sadly it didn't fix it, so I'm going to have to replace the chains and guides 🙁. The old tensioner was knackered though (it was 27mm head btw), it didn't spring out much and I couldn't push the piston in just using my finger and thumb (whereas I could with the new one). Perhaps the guides have got damaged as a result? FWIW, my car only makes a modest rhythmic scrapping noise when the engine is hot (fully warmed up), and I could only hear it with the door open revving the engine to ~2k RPM (stationary obviously, lol).
If it didn’t spring out, unfortunately it means that the chain is stretched, and the tensioner was fully extended to follow and try to keep the chain tensioned. As I mentioned in the video, unfortunately tensioner is not always the problem. N47 does suffer from timing chain issues. I would recommend replacing the timing chain ASAP before it snaps and causes further expenses in repair.
@@W15Garage Did you mean N57? Yes I know and remembered that you said a new tensioner wouldn't always fix it, I didn't say otherwise😉 I've already decided to replace the chains (I've already got timing tool kit), not sure I will go for the OEM chains etc atm (depends on price, hopefully find out tomorrow). I just need to re-watch your video about what parts are needed [edit] Was it you that made that? I can't find it...... I didn't mention it last time, but after trying a new tensioner, and it not fixing the noise, I stopped driving. Driving my (supposed to be a weekend car) 08 M3 atm, which is good fun, but using double the fuel!😬 Btw, what made you decide to do it engine out method? (which I think I'll do it that way) Apologies if I've already asked you that, lol.
@@Assimilator1 n57 chains only last a bit longer than n47 because the additional 2.5liters of oil, the engine holds. More oil will withstand better the long ugly oil intervals than the 5.2liter in the n47, but eventually the n57 chains will wear out too. If it’s automatic and 4x4 I always remove the engine. Small n47 with a manual gearbox, it’s ok on the car-easy job. But n57 is a big unit, I would remove it.
Great video!! Simple and to the point. I have a N55 engine amd and don't hear the rattling sound but my engine check light is on. My mechanic said the timing chain is stretched. I don't hear any rattling and the car performs very well. The code reader points to a stretched timing chain and to change it he quoted 4 - 5k!!!!! When i start the engine it revs up to 2500 rpm goes back to 1000rpm then back to 2000rpm, then settles at 700rpm. I hate this so i figured i will change the timing chain but the cost to do so is half the price of the car!!! Would you still recommend swapping the tensioner?
@@W15Garage Thank you very much for your reply, I really appreciate it. The codes I'm getting on the ECM Diagnosis are: 130F20 -Exhaust camshaft angle offset with respect to crankshaft outside tolerance. 120408 Charging pressure control deactivation: Pressure build up blocked. Another issue I recently realized is that the car starts up very well and sounds very healthy after a resting for a few hours or overnight, but during several short trips, it sounds like it's struggling to start up, but starts every time, never stalled. I've been getting stares from passers by while starting up and i think is due to the struggling start during short trips. I installed a new battery in Jan. 2022, and a new starter about 2 yrs ago. I would greatly appreciate you opinion on this. Thanks in advance.
I had the rattle and i decided to change the whole kit OE. Its waaaay to risky and expensive if it snaps !!! 250k KM was enough, the chain guides are plastic. My problem was the tensioner indeed but i didnt risk it by changing only the tensioner
@@adamholmes-ii1qx it’s not unusual to have different heads 24-27 is ok. It shouldn’t be that tight only 70nm. Is your timing chain still the original? Maybe it was over tightened previously.
Thanks for watching. To demonstrate this properly, it would require oil pressure and the timing chain with the engine in rotation. Faulty one will fluctuate, while the good one is more steady.
Great video, my f31 320d rattles a bit when idling but when i give it just 100-200 more revs it completely disappears. Could it be the tensioner that is leaking and when oil pressure rises the tensioner can put the right pressure on the chain?
Do you recommend doing this at any time or only when there is a rattle? My car is at 69k miles and previous owners only stuck to bmw engine oil changes schedules. My car doesn’t rattle but I do worry about the timing chain. Should I change the tensioner now or only when I hear a rattle. It is a f31 330d
Thanks for watching. I would only recommend replacing it if there's a rattling sound at cold start that stops after a few seconds. Regular oil change intervals are crucial for a long-lasting engine and timing chain life. Don’t follow BMW's recommended high-mileage intervals; I personally change the oil every 6,000 to 7,000 miles at most in my N57 30d X3
@@W15Garage thanks for the reply. I’ve only had the car for 1 years and have done 8k miles in it so far, oil is being changed next week. But back to the main point, change the tensioner as soon as there is a rattle sound on cold start. Do you have any videos or anything so I know what to listen out for?
Hey, @W15 Garage i have a bmw 528i 2014 with a n20 engine and i saw your video on changing the tensioner i want to change it as a preventitive maintenence do i need to lock the engine or i can just take the tensioner out and put new one in or i need to buy the camshaft locking tool.
If you don’t rotate the engine while the tensioner is out, it’s safe. If you think there’s the risk of any kind of rotation, you can lock the flywheel, but I’ve done it on several occasions without locking it.
Is it a good idea to take it out first and check if it is working before buying a new one ? I had timing chain 2 years ago but told it’s now rattling again ?
Thanks for watching! It’s not really possible to tell if it’s faulty or not by the look of it, tensioner works/or fails to work under oil pressure. What timing chain kit was used 2 years ago? Original or aftermarket?
@@W15Garage hmmm makes you wonder how many garages or main dealers that have known this and charged a thousand instead of 70 pounds? Respect for letting people know 5*
For my F15 with N47 engine I have metal kind a sounding rattling noise on cold for 3 seconds and when driving up to 70-80km/h some rattling but slightly different. On overall engine sounds louder too than before. Can it be related to this or something else? I’ve got chain changed 45k miles ago. Thank you!
@@JonkKeithe cold start 3 second rattling could be timing chain/tensioner related, if aftermarket chain kit was used unfortunately they can wear out in 40-50.000miles
@@JonkKei timing chain noise usually is not speed related, it’s RPM dependent. You can try instaling a new tensioner. In my opinion the 80km/h noise mentioned is coming from a different source.
Is it safe to do this without locking the engine? Is there a chance the chain becomes too loose and jumps timing or completely falls off the gears while replacing the tensioner?
@@W15Garage I successfully replaced the tensioner! 🎉 My engine is way quieter at cold start. The only thing I hear now is a faint ch ch ch noise when I rev/drive it between 1.5k - 2.5k revs. I read a little online about it some say it’s normal, some say it’s not. Do you think I still need the chain replaced? Thanks a lot for the video and your comment! 🙏
@@robbejansens1678 unfortunately it’s difficult to tell unseen. A good way to diagnose timing chain noise is to drive between buildings, or a mcdonalds drive through where the echo is strong.
I don’t, but since this method works so well, and the video is quite popular, I’m planning to record a video where I fix a rattling n47 with a new tensioner, then I will remove the engine and measure the timing chain length
@@W15Garage awesome, i am wanting to try this on my N57 engine in a 2010 BMW X5 30d, the chain noise I have is not a loud rattle it’s more of a rotational noise which happens while the engine is cold then goes away when warm.
It’s worth giving it a try. If the noise changes with warm or cold temperatures, it’s most likely the tensioner. If the chain is stretched, it will rattle continuously
@@W15Garage Fingers crossed it will help or at least prevent the issue from worsening, I have already ordered a tensioner, they are quite cheap only around $50. On the E70 X5 N57 it's difficult to reach from above so I will try from under the car.
On the n47 is the external tensioner for the cam chain only, the main chain is all internal and the tensioner is inside the cover? I thought it was the main chain that had the issues
Thanks for watching. The middle chain(main chain) has internal tensioner and it’s thicker than the upper cam chain. Upper one is the weaker one out of the two, and the upper tensioner is also the trouble maker… over time looses oil pressure, causing rattling while the chain is still ok. But as I’ve mentioned in the video, in many cases the timing chain itself is stretched, and needs replaced.
@@crustybmw No one could guarantee that this issue will never happen, lol. If you fit a new tensioner and it cures the noise then at the least you would have bought some more time with the current chains. If the chains aren't stretched at all when you changed the tensioner, then they'd likely last many 10s of thousands of miles.
It is relevant yes, my Mercedes CLS OM642 engine had this issue, cold start rattle…new tensioner fixed the issue, till this day it’s spot on. 😄 I’ve lost count, I would say between 25-30. Still a long way to go till 100 😃
@@W15Garage Ah a fair amount then 🙂, roughly how many would you say of the N47/57 engines you've done which have been fixed by just a new tensioner? Btw, my 2010 330d has an engine rattle (gotta confirm with some former work mates at BMW, might also post you a link to a video I took😉), ~145k miles.
@@Assimilator1 all depends on maintenance, I’ve had a 2012 f25 x3 2.0d at 178000 miles the original timing chain had the same length as the new one i replaced with not 1mm stretch, BUT it was rattling slightly. On the other hand f20 1 series at 91000 miles, chain was completely stretched. I can t confirm exact data just yet. My mercedes cls 320 om642 engine had a strong rattle in the morning. Timing chain being in the front through the oil filler cap I could see the tensioner. Over night it went soft and retracted causing the rattle. After replacement it’s spot on. This got me thinking about bmw n47 57 chain rattling+a lot of rattling bmw chains measuring the exact same length as the new one i was installing
@@W15Garage So roughly how many would you say have been fixed by just a tensioner? Interesting thing I've noticed on my car, I only get the rattle (well, more like a zee-zee-zee noise) once it's warmed up. Have you found that before?
@@W15Garagethanks ordered part from bmw today will fit it Monday and update you 😃you don’t need to lock engine or anything just out and new in Thanks again
No locking is required, just ensure that when the tensioner is out, under no circumstances should the engine be turned by hand or by the starter motor. Also, I would do this when the engine is cold to protect my hands from hot surfaces and because the tensioner will potentially be softer, reducing the risk of damaging the threads. Make sure the O ring comes out with the tensioner, sometimes they stay ,,glued,, to the cylinder head, double check before fitting the new one. Good luck!
Maybe you’ve had an aftermarket tensioner on the car. I ve seen that before, or the new tensioner is an upgraded version, it has no impact on the job, just torque it down correctly.
New tensioner installed bought from BMW & new tensioner was a tiny bit longer all fitted & torqued to 70 nm sounds much smoother thanks for the advice 👍
If the rattle is still there, timing chain needs to be replaced ASAP. In your case the tensioner wasn’t faulty. I would advise replacing it before it snaps, and you can reuse the tensioner you’ve just replaced.
@@W15Garage so needs dismantling any way to check the guides? So if going that far may as well do the lot, no? Although does that include the vanos units teeth wear and the balancer shaft chain?
The tensioner is located on the outside of the engine, so nothing needs to be disassembled-that’s the point. In many cases, even at relatively low mileage, the tensioner fails, causing chain rattling. Replacing the tensioner usually solves the problem. The N47 is a diesel engine and does not have VANOS.
Yeah understood… but my point is it’s an assumption that the tensioner is at the fault and not a broken guide. Ok low mileage it’s less of an assumption but even so. Then again you’ve done more cam chains than I have so yeah ur experience is key. 👍 would there be a mileage that you’d suggest the guides should be checked as well?
@@W15Garage l have got g20 b47 on 94000miles no problems at the moment not sure if l should change the kit before it starts making problems any signs l should look at before it snaps?
It’s still low milage in your case, make sure oil is changed regularly around 8k. Before it snaps it rattles. I’ve seen 178.000miles car on the original chain. Oil change is the key.
All te chains I have replaced have been because the crankshaft sprocket is too soft and the teeth wear so I doubt very much your solution would work at all this is a known fault
Thanks for watching. In this case a new chain kit is pointless as well?! Yet many engines are on the 2nd or even 3rd set of chain without the crankshaft being replaced.
Thank you for this video. I have been thinking alot about this fix for cold start rattle and i think a lot of n47/n57 engines could have been saved by changing this tensioner. I changed mine last september and the rattle is gone completely.
Thanks for watching! I’m glad it’s working for others too. Best part, there is nothing to lose, but a lot to gain😊 All the best!
Great video. No bullshit, straight to the point
Thank for watching! Apreciate it!!
I got a car really really cheap because the garage said it needs a new chain kit and would cost alot to do so the guy sold it me quater the value of the car i done this and sorted the problem 2 years on its still running great
That’s what I like to hear😄! All the best.
For a diy repair this is a great solution if you just need the tensioner. Although I know why a garage would likely want to fit the full timing kit, because the customer expects a full warranty of the work and parts. Garages don’t want to risk doing it twice just to save other people cash. Great video, I’m sure it’ll save a lot of people a lot of money. 👍
Thanks for watching! 100% correct. Timing chains are an issue on N47 engines; it’s a well-known problem, unfortunately. What I've tried to show in this video is that, in many cases, the chain is still okay. By changing the tensioner, it will give some time for the owner to use the car, but the timing chain needs replacing eventually.
Just changed the tensioner only on a N47 bmw 1 series alongside usual oil and filter etc, completely eliminated the noise (was very noticeable) . Completely agree the tensioner is weak and short, the new one is strong and little bigger. Absolutely recommend doing this before getting the engine out. Some tips would be remove the scuttle, sway bar and the wires and vacuum pipe going across the top of the engine, then you can get a breaker bar in there easily. Was an hours work, well worth it.
Thanks for watching! I m glad it worked for you as well. All the best
How to remuve that do you have a video ?
I m glad it worked out for you!
Depends in which state of wear is the timing chain, sometimes they just reduce the rattle sometimes you won't notice difference
Thanks for watching. Yes, unfortunately if the chain is stretched it needs replacing, as I’ve mentioned in the video. But replacing the tensioner is still worth trying as you’ve got nothing to lose, in my experience it has worked in many cases.
Great video, well explained and well filmed and edited. Thank you! 👍🙏
Many thanks! 🙏
I replaced my upper chain tensioner at a local mechanic , the rattle sound at the cold start has gonne but I still have a chain sound at Revs from 1000 to 2800 rpms....I hope it will last a few thousand kms before I must replace the entire timing chain without snapping 😁
@@cirese22 unfortunately in your case it’s the chain, if the rattling is that bad, I would get it replaced as soon as possible. It’s not worth the risk😀
A good practice is removing the plastics where the cabin filter is located. Makes better space, being that it's limited on 1 series / X1. Great video
Good point, that way it’s easier to reach the tensioner!
By all accounts it's the plastic chain guides which break.
The last decent engine BMW made was the M47.
Good for 500k miles on original chain and guides
Thanks for watching! The M47 indeed was a good engine
Actually nop. They snapped crankshafts, famour for that. Especially on Manuals. M57 is the one and only without actually any real design flaws.
So helpful and informative video
Thanks for watching!
Thank You for this great video, it's a good and easier idea to try replace it tensioner first, i will try this. I like your videos and channel, its very helpful, i am subscribed.👍👌
Thanks for watching! Appreciate your comment!
i have a 2014 bmw 325d m sport when i start the car the chain rattles for 3 seconds thwn gose quiet the car has done 160k not sure if i need a full chain or just the tensioner
Most likely, the chain rattling could be fixed with a new tensioner, but at 160k, a timing chain replacement would probably be beneficial as well.
Good tip I wonder how many thousands of pounds have been spent unnecessarily replacing chains when it may have just been a weak tensioner 😵💫
Thanks for watching! It’s worth a try, from experience I can confirm it sorted out a lot of noisy chains
I dont think anyone replacing a chain on the back of the engine is replacing just the chain plus 2.0diesels dont suffer from chain tensioner problems
@@kirilakmadjov8307all newer cars with chains can have a faulty tensioner, even the Mercedes OM651 and OM642 have issues with the tensioners so do the VAG 3.0d V6s
I'm puzzled as to what you're trying to say nobody is suggesting not replacing everything whilst accessing the chain for replacement also the 2 litre BMW diesel very very very definitely suffer tensioner problems especially those without regular oil change@@kirilakmadjov8307
I'm puzzled as to what you're trying to say nobody is suggesting not replacing everything whilst accessing the chain for replacement also the 2 litre BMW diesel very very very definitely suffer tensioner problems especially those without regular oil change
Super helpful, I think I could even do this!
@@michaellaforte6964 Thanks for watching!
I had to remove Air filter box, B+ terminal and cabin filter to gain better access to the tensioner and it's still difficult to put socket on the tensioner head. I broke 2 extensions trying to undo it but it's just stuck.
@@SaintPeter-f9v try to remove the dpf bracket bolt, that will give you better access. Be careful not to damage the head of the tensioner.
Just fitted a new top tensioner to my 2010 330d (N57) with ~145k miles (FSH, factory intervals which is ~2yrs/15 miles), sadly it didn't fix it, so I'm going to have to replace the chains and guides 🙁.
The old tensioner was knackered though (it was 27mm head btw), it didn't spring out much and I couldn't push the piston in just using my finger and thumb (whereas I could with the new one). Perhaps the guides have got damaged as a result?
FWIW, my car only makes a modest rhythmic scrapping noise when the engine is hot (fully warmed up), and I could only hear it with the door open revving the engine to ~2k RPM (stationary obviously, lol).
If it didn’t spring out, unfortunately it means that the chain is stretched, and the tensioner was fully extended to follow and try to keep the chain tensioned. As I mentioned in the video, unfortunately tensioner is not always the problem. N47 does suffer from timing chain issues. I would recommend replacing the timing chain ASAP before it snaps and causes further expenses in repair.
@@W15Garage Did you mean N57? Yes I know and remembered that you said a new tensioner wouldn't always fix it, I didn't say otherwise😉
I've already decided to replace the chains (I've already got timing tool kit), not sure I will go for the OEM chains etc atm (depends on price, hopefully find out tomorrow). I just need to re-watch your video about what parts are needed [edit] Was it you that made that? I can't find it......
I didn't mention it last time, but after trying a new tensioner, and it not fixing the noise, I stopped driving. Driving my (supposed to be a weekend car) 08 M3 atm, which is good fun, but using double the fuel!😬
Btw, what made you decide to do it engine out method? (which I think I'll do it that way) Apologies if I've already asked you that, lol.
@@Assimilator1 n57 n47 same issue, unfortunately applies for both variants
@@W15Garage Yea roger that, although I hear it's less common with the N57. Btw, did you see my question about which method to get to the chain?
@@Assimilator1 n57 chains only last a bit longer than n47 because the additional 2.5liters of oil, the engine holds. More oil will withstand better the long ugly oil intervals than the 5.2liter in the n47, but eventually the n57 chains will wear out too. If it’s automatic and 4x4 I always remove the engine. Small n47 with a manual gearbox, it’s ok on the car-easy job. But n57 is a big unit, I would remove it.
brilll ,,tank u .u have saved me monys ,,,,,thanks
@@tonycoombes2281 glad I could help!!
Excellent video, keep up the good work!
Thanks appreciate it!
Great video!! Simple and to the point. I have a N55 engine amd and don't hear the rattling sound but my engine check light is on.
My mechanic said the timing chain is stretched. I don't hear any rattling and the car performs very well. The code reader points to a stretched timing chain and to change it he quoted 4 - 5k!!!!!
When i start the engine it revs up to 2500 rpm goes back to 1000rpm then back to 2000rpm, then settles at 700rpm.
I hate this so i figured i will change the timing chain but the cost to do so is half the price of the car!!!
Would you still recommend swapping the tensioner?
@@MrZoukie thanks for watching. If you can’t hear any rattling it’s not the tensioner. What are the codes?
@@W15Garage Thank you very much for your reply, I really appreciate it.
The codes I'm getting on the ECM Diagnosis are:
130F20 -Exhaust camshaft angle offset with respect to crankshaft outside tolerance.
120408 Charging pressure control deactivation: Pressure build up blocked.
Another issue I recently realized is that the car starts up very well and sounds very healthy after a resting for a few hours or overnight, but during several short trips, it sounds like it's struggling to start up, but starts every time, never stalled. I've been getting stares from passers by while starting up and i think is due to the struggling start during short trips. I installed a new battery in Jan. 2022, and a new starter about 2 yrs ago. I would greatly appreciate you opinion on this.
Thanks in advance.
great info keep up the good work
Appreciate it, thanks for watching!
I had the rattle and i decided to change the whole kit OE. Its waaaay to risky and expensive if it snaps !!! 250k KM was enough, the chain guides are plastic. My problem was the tensioner indeed but i didnt risk it by changing only the tensioner
Thanks for watching!
Not risky if it doesn't rattle, if the chain stretched at a later point you'd hear the rattle again, then you would do the whole monty.
@@Assimilator1 Agreed 👍
Great vid. Do you need to lock anything in place ?
Thanks for watching! Valid question! No special tools required, timing doesn’t need to be locked. 70Nm final torque and good to go.
Nice video! Do you need to take out the oil before you do this?
@@Kevinbjursell Thanks! No, just remove the tensioner, and refit the new one
@@W15Garage Thank you for answer! Is the tensioner placed the same position on F11 N47?
@@Kevinbjursell yes, just above the dpf. It’s easy to locate it, but be careful-only do it when engine is cold, otherwise risk of burning.
I carnt get my tensioner off 😅 rock solid plus I got a 24 from bmw but the one what’s coming of is a 27 ??😂
@@adamholmes-ii1qx it’s not unusual to have different heads 24-27 is ok. It shouldn’t be that tight only 70nm. Is your timing chain still the original? Maybe it was over tightened previously.
Iv not done chain befor . it’s a 3 series there’s not a lot ov room but im gona have another go tomorrow
There’s no evidence to say it’s bin done befor I bought it on 90 k it’s on 145k it just makes a noise on start up for few seconds
Thanks for replying
@@adamholmes-ii1qx just make sure socket sits properly on the tensioner, use a longer ratchet, should come out no problem.
Hi, late 2013 x3 f25 20d do you recommend i replace my tensioner, 130,000km no timing nose
Hi, if there is no timing chain noise I wouldn’t change it
Good video, do you have a failed tensioner to show for comparison?.
Thanks for watching. To demonstrate this properly, it would require oil pressure and the timing chain with the engine in rotation. Faulty one will fluctuate, while the good one is more steady.
@@W15Garage thanks for your reply,do the tensioners feel the same out of the engine?.
Great video, my f31 320d rattles a bit when idling but when i give it just 100-200 more revs it completely disappears. Could it be the tensioner that is leaking and when oil pressure rises the tensioner can put the right pressure on the chain?
Hi, thanks for watching. Unfortunately I can’t guarantee 100% But 99% a new tensioner would fix the issue. It’s worth a try.
Good mechanic 🙂👍
Thanks for watching! Appreciate your comment!
Thanks for the tips
Thanks for watching!
What, I can't believe I've never even heard of this. Shouldn't this be the absolute first step to try?
@@jouniranta-puska4699 thanks for watching! It’s definitely worth a try!
Do you recommend doing this at any time or only when there is a rattle? My car is at 69k miles and previous owners only stuck to bmw engine oil changes schedules. My car doesn’t rattle but I do worry about the timing chain. Should I change the tensioner now or only when I hear a rattle. It is a f31 330d
Thanks for watching. I would only recommend replacing it if there's a rattling sound at cold start that stops after a few seconds. Regular oil change intervals are crucial for a long-lasting engine and timing chain life. Don’t follow BMW's recommended high-mileage intervals; I personally change the oil every 6,000 to 7,000 miles at most in my N57 30d X3
@@W15Garage thanks for the reply. I’ve only had the car for 1 years and have done 8k miles in it so far, oil is being changed next week. But back to the main point, change the tensioner as soon as there is a rattle sound on cold start. Do you have any videos or anything so I know what to listen out for?
Hey, @W15 Garage i have a bmw 528i 2014 with a n20 engine and i saw your video on changing the tensioner i want to change it as a preventitive maintenence do i need to lock the engine or i can just take the tensioner out and put new one in or i need to buy the camshaft locking tool.
Hi, thanks for watching. You don’t have to lock the engine, just make sure you’re not rotating the crankshaft while the tensioner is out.
thank you so much
I’ve been told that the components need to be locked in order to do this?
How true is this?
If you don’t rotate the engine while the tensioner is out, it’s safe. If you think there’s the risk of any kind of rotation, you can lock the flywheel, but I’ve done it on several occasions without locking it.
Well done
Thanks!
Hi, thanks for the video. where is your garage?
Is it a good idea to take it out first and check if it is working before buying a new one ?
I had timing chain 2 years ago but told it’s now rattling again ?
Thanks for watching! It’s not really possible to tell if it’s faulty or not by the look of it, tensioner works/or fails to work under oil pressure. What timing chain kit was used 2 years ago? Original or aftermarket?
would this work on golf 1.4 tsi engine and mazda 2.2 diesel engine? both renowned for same problem?
Hi, thanks for watching! It’s worth a try, on my 2006 Mercedes CLS 320CDI V6 diesel it sorted the rattle as well.
@@W15Garage hmmm makes you wonder how many garages or main dealers that
have known this and charged a thousand instead of 70 pounds? Respect for letting people know 5*
For my F15 with N47 engine I have metal kind a sounding rattling noise on cold for 3 seconds and when driving up to 70-80km/h some rattling but slightly different. On overall engine sounds louder too than before. Can it be related to this or something else? I’ve got chain changed 45k miles ago. Thank you!
@@JonkKeithe cold start 3 second rattling could be timing chain/tensioner related, if aftermarket chain kit was used unfortunately they can wear out in 40-50.000miles
@@W15Garage thank you! Yes I think after market chain kit was used… So probably I should replace current tensioner with original and see?
There is also rattling noise driving up to 70-80km/h then it disappears. Once warm up it’s much better
@@JonkKei timing chain noise usually is not speed related, it’s RPM dependent. You can try instaling a new tensioner. In my opinion the 80km/h noise mentioned is coming from a different source.
@@W15Garage thank you. So the initial rattling is very clear on cold start and it seems it continues when accelerating up to 80km/hr while driving.
Is it safe to do this without locking the engine? Is there a chance the chain becomes too loose and jumps timing or completely falls off the gears while replacing the tensioner?
It is safe, just don’t turn the engine while the tensioner is out
@@W15Garage I successfully replaced the tensioner! 🎉 My engine is way quieter at cold start. The only thing I hear now is a faint ch ch ch noise when I rev/drive it between 1.5k - 2.5k revs. I read a little online about it some say it’s normal, some say it’s not. Do you think I still need the chain replaced? Thanks a lot for the video and your comment! 🙏
@@robbejansens1678 unfortunately it’s difficult to tell unseen. A good way to diagnose timing chain noise is to drive between buildings, or a mcdonalds drive through where the echo is strong.
Do you have a before and after of the sound?
I don’t, but since this method works so well, and the video is quite popular, I’m planning to record a video where I fix a rattling n47 with a new tensioner, then I will remove the engine and measure the timing chain length
@@W15Garage awesome, i am wanting to try this on my N57 engine in a 2010 BMW X5 30d, the chain noise I have is not a loud rattle it’s more of a rotational noise which happens while the engine is cold then goes away when warm.
It’s worth giving it a try. If the noise changes with warm or cold temperatures, it’s most likely the tensioner. If the chain is stretched, it will rattle continuously
@@W15Garage Fingers crossed it will help or at least prevent the issue from worsening, I have already ordered a tensioner, they are quite cheap only around $50. On the E70 X5 N57 it's difficult to reach from above so I will try from under the car.
On the n47 is the external tensioner for the cam chain only, the main chain is all internal and the tensioner is inside the cover? I thought it was the main chain that had the issues
Thanks for watching. The middle chain(main chain) has internal tensioner and it’s thicker than the upper cam chain. Upper one is the weaker one out of the two, and the upper tensioner is also the trouble maker… over time looses oil pressure, causing rattling while the chain is still ok. But as I’ve mentioned in the video, in many cases the timing chain itself is stretched, and needs replaced.
@@W15Garage Ok so if I buy one and I change the tensioner preventatively and do very regular oil changes will this issue not happen?
@@crustybmw No one could guarantee that this issue will never happen, lol. If you fit a new tensioner and it cures the noise then at the least you would have bought some more time with the current chains. If the chains aren't stretched at all when you changed the tensioner, then they'd likely last many 10s of thousands of miles.
What BMW engine is that? Can I do it on the BMW N20 engine?
N47 diesel. Yes, it’s worth trying it. My 2006 Mercedes CLS 320CDI had a cold start rattling, a new tensioner sorted the problem.
Isn't this relevant to the N57 and e9x series too?
How many N47/57 timing chains have you done btw?
It is relevant yes, my Mercedes CLS OM642 engine had this issue, cold start rattle…new tensioner fixed the issue, till this day it’s spot on. 😄 I’ve lost count, I would say between 25-30. Still a long way to go till 100 😃
@@W15Garage Ah a fair amount then 🙂, roughly how many would you say of the N47/57 engines you've done which have been fixed by just a new tensioner?
Btw, my 2010 330d has an engine rattle (gotta confirm with some former work mates at BMW, might also post you a link to a video I took😉), ~145k miles.
@@Assimilator1 all depends on maintenance, I’ve had a 2012 f25 x3 2.0d at 178000 miles the original timing chain had the same length as the new one i replaced with not 1mm stretch, BUT it was rattling slightly. On the other hand f20 1 series at 91000 miles, chain was completely stretched. I can t confirm exact data just yet. My mercedes cls 320 om642 engine had a strong rattle in the morning. Timing chain being in the front through the oil filler cap I could see the tensioner. Over night it went soft and retracted causing the rattle. After replacement it’s spot on. This got me thinking about bmw n47 57 chain rattling+a lot of rattling bmw chains measuring the exact same length as the new one i was installing
@@W15Garage ah ok, I was just wondering roughly what proportion of the N47/57 rattlers you did were fixed with just a tensioner? 🙂
@@W15Garage So roughly how many would you say have been fixed by just a tensioner?
Interesting thing I've noticed on my car, I only get the rattle (well, more like a zee-zee-zee noise) once it's warmed up. Have you found that before?
Do you not have to lock the position mine is f31 auto, n47 is it easily accessible if we do from underneath or doing it from top is easier
You don’t have to, just don’t rotate the engine while the tensioner is out
Mine rattled just on cold start wonder if this could be my problem
@@adebradshaw2407 if it rattles and than stops high chances it’s the tensioner. If the chain is stretched it rattles constantly. It’s worth a try
@@W15Garagethanks ordered part from bmw today will fit it Monday and update you 😃you don’t need to lock engine or anything just out and new in
Thanks again
No locking is required, just ensure that when the tensioner is out, under no circumstances should the engine be turned by hand or by the starter motor. Also, I would do this when the engine is cold to protect my hands from hot surfaces and because the tensioner will potentially be softer, reducing the risk of damaging the threads. Make sure the O ring comes out with the tensioner, sometimes they stay ,,glued,, to the cylinder head, double check before fitting the new one. Good luck!
@@W15Garage thank you so much
I will update in the week 😀
@@W15Garage done today was bit harder then I thought on e91 all done now sounds much better thank you so much 🙏 you have gained a new subscriber 🤛
Does this work on 320d e90 n47 engine 2011 ?
Thanks for watching. Yes e90 has the same N47D20C engine
Why is the tentioner head bigger then 24mm on the car & the new tentioner I got is 24mm head, defo right bolt just find it strange ?
27mm, new tensioner 24mm head
Maybe you’ve had an aftermarket tensioner on the car. I ve seen that before, or the new tensioner is an upgraded version, it has no impact on the job, just torque it down correctly.
New tensioner installed bought from BMW & new tensioner was a tiny bit longer all fitted & torqued to 70 nm sounds much smoother thanks for the advice 👍
Do u need to put new tentioner in oil atall before installing ?
No, it’s crucial not to put in any oil
Changed mine yesterday still have a small rattle at low revs any ideas?
If the rattle is still there, timing chain needs to be replaced ASAP. In your case the tensioner wasn’t faulty. I would advise replacing it before it snaps, and you can reuse the tensioner you’ve just replaced.
😂😂😂😂 muy muy bueno tio
But do the guides wear and break?
@@chrish8871 they do, in many cases the guides brake, which leads to timing chain failure.
@@W15Garage so needs dismantling any way to check the guides? So if going that far may as well do the lot, no? Although does that include the vanos units teeth wear and the balancer shaft chain?
@@chrish8871 tensioner is in the outside nothing needs to be disassembled, n47 is a diesel engine…no vanos.
The tensioner is located on the outside of the engine, so nothing needs to be disassembled-that’s the point. In many cases, even at relatively low mileage, the tensioner fails, causing chain rattling. Replacing the tensioner usually solves the problem. The N47 is a diesel engine and does not have VANOS.
Yeah understood… but my point is it’s an assumption that the tensioner is at the fault and not a broken guide. Ok low mileage it’s less of an assumption but even so. Then again you’ve done more cam chains than I have so yeah ur experience is key. 👍 would there be a mileage that you’d suggest the guides should be checked as well?
How much wd u charge for a chain replacement on a 2012 vw 1.4tsi engine..?
Hi. Thanks for watching! I’m only a hobbyist so not set up to take on any clients at the moment, sorry!
How about g20 b47 engines do they have timing chain problems?
I’ve seen stretched b47 chains on f30 facelift, also b37 in mini. Didn’t owned g20 model yet
@@W15Garage l have got g20 b47 on 94000miles no problems at the moment not sure if l should change the kit before it starts making problems any signs l should look at before it snaps?
It’s still low milage in your case, make sure oil is changed regularly around 8k. Before it snaps it rattles. I’ve seen 178.000miles car on the original chain. Oil change is the key.
@@W15Garage thanks all the best👍
Is this definitely an oil fed tensioner?
Thanks for watching. Upper chain tensioner OEM part number 11 31 8 490 219
I meant it looks spring tensioned, I couldn't see an oil passage/hole
Could be wrong though
@@marcwebb687 Spring is just for when there's no oil pressure, as in at start up. Once oil pressure is built up, that is what pushes the piston out.
@@W15Garage Did you say in the video you were going to put the part number in the description? Or did I imagine that? 😉
@@Assimilator1 11 31 8 490 219 I will add it to the description now.
👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
How is that easy to remuve ?
It’s not that difficult really. A few basic tools and patience.
So if the timing chain is stretched, couldn't I just remove the washer??😁
😁 you have a good point here, in theory it would work, only the oil leak would cause problems.
❤❤❤❤😮😅!
Thanks for watching!
You should be jailed
Thanks for watching!
All te chains I have replaced have been because the crankshaft sprocket is too soft and the teeth wear so I doubt very much your solution would work at all this is a known fault
Thanks for watching. In this case a new chain kit is pointless as well?! Yet many engines are on the 2nd or even 3rd set of chain without the crankshaft being replaced.