Great idea! I've pondered this use of this material in the past and then I pondered some more... and pondered some more... and more and more! LOL! Thank you so much for sharing your ideas and the procedures you ultimately used. I'm going to use this system in a much smaller area, about 40" square with one corner cut-off (for the doorway). I will be converting the whole bathroom into a shower room (remove the tiny vanity and 'black tank connected' toilet completely) that will include a home built composting toilet system (with a bucket!) and a built in "wet" bench with two lids; both closed (down) for shower activity and the top lid up for "other" activity. Both lids will open for emptying the waste catch materials. One tricky part of this system will be to make sure water from shower activity doesn't find it's way into the waste system. My main issue to solve now is how to create a shower pan with a curb at the doorway. Built-in-place? Or built outside (somewhere) and then installed into place? (EDIT!) As I continue to "ponder" this project, I'm leaning towards building the pan and doorway curb (which will end up being one continuous raised edge around the entire shower, similar to the "kick board" around a normal room)... by building it in place for fitment and then removing it and applying an epoxy coating before permanently installing it in place. Then I will install the shower walls.
I love the idea, love the look. My idea is to use PT plywood as the backer, then pretend the surround is a metal roof - fiberglass underlayment followed by water & ice shield up from the shower base (comes on 36" x 75' roll, sticks like crazy), then the corregated metal roofing. Got plenty of leftover screws (galv. w/ rubber washers) from doing the metal roof on my cabin. I'll use your idea for the shower valve. I do acknowledge inside corners will be tricky. Thanks for posting this!
I avoided some of the difficulty of working with the corrugations around your faucet, by using the more modern galvanized Roofing panels. Using the more modern style panels they have flatter portions that are 5 or 6 inch wide. I laid mine out in such a manner where my faucets lined up with the flatter portions of the panel and the set flat against the wall. Other differences and how I did mine are the way I sealed the wall behind the tin, and how I attach the 10 to the wall. I used conventional green drywall, coated heavy with the red polymer type coating for tub and shower enclosures. I then used and he Civ to glue my galvanized panels to the wall, with no screw penetrations as they did in this video. Another thing I did, was to use the same galvanized panels to do a wainscoting on part of the bathroom. This tight it all together nicely.
I would recommend a cement based board like Durarock if coating with a liquid membrane (red polymer coating). The green drywall comes waterproofed so adding a waterproof coating over the top will create a double vapor barrier.
I was thinking about doing this, but with the corrugated lexan roofing panels. I have an odd size shower base, and can't find a surround that is within my budget.
When screwing into the panels, don't you then puncture the tar paper and waterproof membrane? Getting ready to do this project and trying to think of obstacles. Gonna try and use a shower surround, dreamline prime 33", with the tin.
Yes they puncture those layers but it's no different than any common metal roof, which relies on the rubber gasket built into the roofing screws to prevent water incursion. It is wise to check the screws for gasket damage or wear, which I also had a roofer check from time to time on the metal roof of our home.
The first time you lean on that it will make a dent. That's what I was worried about. I'm redoing my RV trailer I have a deep bathtub and I'm building my own tub surround
If you don't live in an over taxing state, material even cheaper. 8ft 29gauge sheets are 20 bucks where I live. That's about 120 bucks for metal. I'd say around 500 if you fo it yourself.
@@akwolf1434 I think she is referring to the condensation that will occur with the hot water heating the metal. The tar paper and membrane will protect the plywood/framing from water intrusion and do not prevent mold growth. You still have a potential of mold developing between the vapor barrier you've created (tar paper and pan liner) and the metal sheet. The only way to deter mold from propagating in this space is plenty of air movement BEHIND the metal. Moisture from condensation is going to occur behind the metal; so preventing mold from developing will be a challenge. I would recommend 1) good quality air ventilation in the room and 2) run the corrugations vertically and do not seal off the top and bottom edges of the sheets. In other words allow room for air to move behind the metal, allowing an improved breath-ability. Keep in mind, these steps will only help mitigate mold growth and not prevent it. Installing the grooves vertically will help air move by convection BUT this isn't at all ideal considering that the temperature change which will cause most of the convection that happens in this room (hot water from the shower) is also raising the moisture level in the air. Two sides of the same coin as they say. Best of luck!
that's about 60 bucks worth of tin, suppose the rest of the stuff could be 600 plus.., don't know if I'd use galvanized for a shower. Has lead and zinc I thought...looks good
@@daniellealt4535 it's against code. Pressure treated is treated with all kinds of toxins. Code book even goes into if there was a house fire the treated lumber's smoke will be even more toxic. To be complete honest I could keep picking apart everything in the video that's incorrect but I'll leave it with it's a homeowner dyi job a 100%.
@@engsetters4633 I was required by our local code enforcement to use 3/4 treated plywood on my basement walls to cover my ICF. This is on a new build in 2020.
The dude does a great video and explains a diy in detail, but all you can do is make an asinine comment about his eyes. I hope Karma seeks you out and wacks you on the head.
I did a corrugated ceiling on my back porch . It turned out great! I like rustic.
Great idea! I've pondered this use of this material in the past and then I pondered some more... and pondered some more... and more and more! LOL!
Thank you so much for sharing your ideas and the procedures you ultimately used.
I'm going to use this system in a much smaller area, about 40" square with one corner cut-off (for the doorway). I will be converting the whole bathroom into a shower room (remove the tiny vanity and 'black tank connected' toilet completely) that will include a home built composting toilet system (with a bucket!) and a built in "wet" bench with two lids; both closed (down) for shower activity and the top lid up for "other" activity. Both lids will open for emptying the waste catch materials. One tricky part of this system will be to make sure water from shower activity doesn't find it's way into the waste system.
My main issue to solve now is how to create a shower pan with a curb at the doorway. Built-in-place? Or built outside (somewhere) and then installed into place?
(EDIT!) As I continue to "ponder" this project, I'm leaning towards building the pan and doorway curb (which will end up being one continuous raised edge around the entire shower, similar to the "kick board" around a normal room)... by building it in place for fitment and then removing it and applying an epoxy coating before permanently installing it in place. Then I will install the shower walls.
I have loved this style since I've seen it years ago. You have given a really great explanation of the waterproofing. Thank you so much!
Shower looks super nice. Thanks for the idea. ❤
been wanting to do this last year, tossing and turning between fiberglass and I had questions concerning logistics, very informational ty
About to do the same thing ...and for the same reasons, thanks for sharing! Liked the end result, cheers!
I love the idea, love the look. My idea is to use PT plywood as the backer, then pretend the surround is a metal roof - fiberglass underlayment followed by water & ice shield up from the shower base (comes on 36" x 75' roll, sticks like crazy), then the corregated metal roofing. Got plenty of leftover screws (galv. w/ rubber washers) from doing the metal roof on my cabin. I'll use your idea for the shower valve. I do acknowledge inside corners will be tricky. Thanks for posting this!
This is a great idea for a renovation!
Doing my Mountain house this summer.. Excellent!
Great item very Portable and easy to clean.
How did you finish around the bottom edge? I'm planning to do this, but I'm afraid the children will get their fingers cut.
I avoided some of the difficulty of working with the corrugations around your faucet, by using the more modern galvanized Roofing panels. Using the more modern style panels they have flatter portions that are 5 or 6 inch wide. I laid mine out in such a manner where my faucets lined up with the flatter portions of the panel and the set flat against the wall.
Other differences and how I did mine are the way I sealed the wall behind the tin, and how I attach the 10 to the wall. I used conventional green drywall, coated heavy with the red polymer type coating for tub and shower enclosures. I then used and he Civ to glue my galvanized panels to the wall, with no screw penetrations as they did in this video.
Another thing I did, was to use the same galvanized panels to do a wainscoting on part of the bathroom. This tight it all together nicely.
do you have video
mildred wigley
No, sorry no video. But it doesn't come out pretty cool I think.
Hello gow di you glue the panels? and what is the name of the glue? thank you.
I would recommend a cement based board like Durarock if coating with a liquid membrane (red polymer coating). The green drywall comes waterproofed so adding a waterproof coating over the top will create a double vapor barrier.
can you show how to mount the tap and shower fittings on the iron?
Why didn't I think of that?! Love this idea! Thanks!
Excellent video.
Looks excellent, exactly what I’m trying to do. Thank you!
I used this 8 years ago and still love it. I need to install grab bars, anyone have tips or experience. Do i need to mount onto pvc board?
USING one piece vinyl flooring works good also for shower surround and cheap.
Exelente: that's my taste of old fashion.
... is that not gonna mold, like the entire thing when it sweats?
How to you keep it clean from water stains?
I love that look
interesting idea
I was thinking about doing this, but with the corrugated lexan roofing panels. I have an odd size shower base, and can't find a surround that is within my budget.
What did u do on the left, looking at the shower, where the wood and metal meet?
When screwing into the panels, don't you then puncture the tar paper and waterproof membrane? Getting ready to do this project and trying to think of obstacles. Gonna try and use a shower surround, dreamline prime 33", with the tin.
Yes they puncture those layers but it's no different than any common metal roof, which relies on the rubber gasket built into the roofing screws to prevent water incursion. It is wise to check the screws for gasket damage or wear, which I also had a roofer check from time to time on the metal roof of our home.
I think you could run copper on the outside of the surround, it would look good
Nice
You missing one thing for the perfect look... a galvanize stock tank tub 😉
The first time you lean on that it will make a dent. That's what I was worried about. I'm redoing my RV trailer I have a deep bathtub and I'm building my own tub surround
Oh c’mon now. It isn’t tin foil…
How cool
Did the metal touch your shower pan?
Galvanized in the shower seems like a bad idea. Is it not a corrosive metal? Which means it will rust if so. Looks great though.
Metal is galvanized so it won't rust.
If you don't live in an over taxing state, material even cheaper. 8ft 29gauge sheets are 20 bucks where I live. That's about 120 bucks for metal. I'd say around 500 if you fo it yourself.
yes building a bath tub is a bit pricey.I bought a 50gl rubbermaid trough and a portable rechargeable shower. Cost less than US$250.
do you have any pictures of your set up?
Also, how do you drain it?
@@redtail2353 there is a video out here on youtube on draining it that I took paternity from..
Great video, good to see Stuart from Saturday night live carry on with his life
@FMJPatriot thanks 😬
Can it be painted
How do you avoid it molding behind the panels
Did you not watch the video?
@@akwolf1434 I think she is referring to the condensation that will occur with the hot water heating the metal. The tar paper and membrane will protect the plywood/framing from water intrusion and do not prevent mold growth. You still have a potential of mold developing between the vapor barrier you've created (tar paper and pan liner) and the metal sheet. The only way to deter mold from propagating in this space is plenty of air movement BEHIND the metal. Moisture from condensation is going to occur behind the metal; so preventing mold from developing will be a challenge. I would recommend 1) good quality air ventilation in the room and 2) run the corrugations vertically and do not seal off the top and bottom edges of the sheets. In other words allow room for air to move behind the metal, allowing an improved breath-ability.
Keep in mind, these steps will only help mitigate mold growth and not prevent it. Installing the grooves vertically will help air move by convection BUT this isn't at all ideal considering that the temperature change which will cause most of the convection that happens in this room (hot water from the shower) is also raising the moisture level in the air. Two sides of the same coin as they say. Best of luck!
see reply to AKWolf1
Not using too much hot water. Just rinse it off. 5 min shower.
I want to do this but how safe is it when it's lightning outside?
i hope this is a joke question.
You serious, Clark?
that's about 60 bucks worth of tin, suppose the rest of the stuff could be 600 plus.., don't know if I'd use galvanized for a shower. Has lead and zinc I thought...looks good
Keep thinking.
Use a thicker galvanized sheet then it wont dent so easily
You shouldn't use treated in your house. It's not even code. Should have just used cement or Hardie board
You're not supposed to? Is it a bad thing? ... asking for a friend.
@@daniellealt4535 it's against code. Pressure treated is treated with all kinds of toxins. Code book even goes into if there was a house fire the treated lumber's smoke will be even more toxic.
To be complete honest I could keep picking apart everything in the video that's incorrect but I'll leave it with it's a homeowner dyi job a 100%.
@@engsetters4633 Good to know!
@@engsetters4633 I was required by our local code enforcement to use 3/4 treated plywood on my basement walls to cover my ICF. This is on a new build in 2020.
@@hundy220 bc code is white wood can't touch concrete.
I've done this a dozen times but I really do not like your shower valve and ur pvc tho
Glad you shared…very helpful 🤦♂️
That's a great caulk
Where do u buy the metal???
Generous amount of calk. Generously apply calk. Calk
This guys eyes are huge! He looks like a cartoon character
The dude does a great video and explains a diy in detail, but all you can do is make an asinine comment about his eyes. I hope Karma seeks you out and wacks you on the head.
@@jaybulloch5483 factual comment, and thanks 🙏🏼 😊
HE NEEDS SOME MILK
Milk?
You are a giblet head.