@Chase Williams Its just the regular reducer you use with your basecoat. Just like he shows in the video it only takes a small amount and make sure you use the right temp rating, especially if your not in a climate controlled booth. He explains it perfectly in the video.
@Chase Williams Reducer works similarly to thinner but with urethane base/clear systems you use reducer that is made to work with it. Thinner is more known for being used with acrylic enamel type paints. I know guys who have used regular thinner with their primer because thinner is cheaper than reducer but I've never personally heard of anyone using thinner with basecoat or clearcoat. Also when I first started painting some of the older guys who had worked with Acrylic enamel before urethane basecoat/clearcoat systems became norm still called the new reducer thinner because that's what they were used to but like I said its actually 2 different things but works similarly for different applications.
Thanks again Brian, my understanding of what the paint and clear coat is actually doing has really improved over the last couple of years watching you. Live long and prosper buddy 🙏
I spray outside. I have need adding thinners to my clear for years. Helps me get it smooth and I get a paint booth finish every time. Even spraying outside in the hot sun. No orange peel and I flow coat it saucy !
Years ago all the clears you added reducer. With current voc laws everything changed These high solids clears can be a challenge to spray. I’ve learned just a little reducer can help with that. Awesome video
I think thats what the last person who painted my truck did. It looked nice and smooth, but only lasted 5 years. Started flaking off and peeled. This is why i am watching your channel and re painted my truck.
I like to do first 2 coats, let it sit approx 36 hrs, wetsand with 1500 to remove any surface trash, dust runs, etc. Then set up the clear again for 2 more coats but use reducer as you noted. Turns the now matte sanded and smooth surface into a high quality finish. I like this method cause if these last 2 coats aren't overly heavy, and any dust that does stick at this point will be settling into a rather thin coat of clear and easily buffed out with a light polish in most cases.
@BryanClark-gk6ie I meant 1k. 600/800 only if lots of build up or a drip/run in clear..I'm cautious though and picky. Don't wannt cut the paint, especially metallic lol.
@@BryanClark-gk6ie Ive hit it with 1000, but on a palm sander with a foam interface pad. I just dont have the balls to go any harder. Mind you, I'm always using stupid expensive base coat colors.
Really appreciate your videos. Trying to soak this all in, I've done a few diy panels in the past with decent results out of a spray can, but finally doing a full color change on one of my rides this Spring. Can't wait! Thanks for arming me with extra knowledge Brian, you the man.
I need to do that. I'm a "newb" painter, self taught by watching RUclips videos and I almost always have a vehicle covered in orange peel when I'm done
great video, by adding reducer you are changing the viscosity (thickness) of the clear. The thinner (less viscosity) the clear the less orange peel. but you are flirting with a higher chance of runs and sags. I the TDS there is a suggested viscosity to spray all top coats. To measure this viscosity you have to do a viscosity drip test. To get a perfect job you have to do perfect chemistry. This means not guessing and knowing what your spraying. (for the advanced class) Another educational vid.
Gives you 700 scenarios where you can screw up------- Video ends, "dont overthink it, its just paint" lmao, thanks for all the help and confidence youve given me as a newbie into this craft!
I haven’t had any problems with orange peal in my clear coat painting in temperatures 85 to 62 degrees. The only issues I have had is switching from upper grade paints to lower grade paints. The higher grade paints lay smooth and flat, while the lower grade paints finish is rough with a leather grain finish like the K2 primer which requires wet sanding. The only way taround it is extra coats of clear to fill in the valleys of the rough paint finish. Sure, I can wet sand the lower grade paints to make them smooth and flat… but why sand off expensive paint material and risk sanding down to the primer. From my personal experience as a hobby painter I will pay the money for the upper grade paint so I can use less clear coats to cover up the sins of the lower grade paints. Any tips on making the cheaper lower grade paint lay smooth and flat? Thank you!
I know quite a few painters in the production shop environment that adds a little reducer in the clear. I myself don’t do that and most paint do old skool and custom paint jobs don’t either. We know we’re going to cut and buff anyway
I find temperature-matching the reducer or hardener is best, with maximum air pressure for whatever gun being used. The higher atomization occurs with higher pressure at the gun. Combined with speed and distance, one shouldn't need extra reducer.
Ah Man U know as well as me.. some products, we use protech maxi glaze, you totally can over reduce a little.. I go 20 percent on coat 1 and 2 and 25 on my third coat.. I always go 3 clear.. I know some shops won’t let you because the margins are so tight, but 3 clear always looks better to me with the 3rd being over reduced a little.
25%? dam thats alot imo but if it works for u then great! I just started reducing my clear by 5% and it makes a world of difference. If ur using cheap clear like me, putting the extra coat of clear on cost like $30 for your typical front end job. IMO not much if u want a ok paint job to look like a great paint job.
Sigh... what a beautiful finish. Better than factory made. here in Africa we cannot even buy the products needed. And I have 3 classics that need redoing. 73 VW Bug, 83 Nissan Patrol, 93 Volvo 850 wagon.
Your videos are fantastic. I learned how to paint at a trade school, you would be a great instructor. I switched to the body side but still paint a little on the side. Is there a chance you can make videos about budget/midgrade single stage?
Wish you were closer to me. I need someone to fix my tri coat metallic paint. The guy who sprayed it needs to watch more of your videos. I’m in Las Vegas
Hye dude i realy like your all video .that great. End i want to ask . Can i use slow thinner at basecoat? Or just use regular 2k thinner. With the best? Thanks i hope you reply🙏🫰☺️
You may want to run your hose up your arm from the gun over your shoulders behind your neck and hold it with your other hand to keep from dragging the hose on the fender or the hood. A simple technique to save a load of problems in your finish. I painted cars for more than 30 years and found this technique of hose handling to be great at saving myself a lot of grief. Holding it in front of your body like that is asking for a lot more work. I used that reducer hack for a lot of years but I used it in both coates. And as far as build up on edges...good spray technique will solve that. Never stop on any edge. Always spray beyond any edge or gap. Always overlap your masking. do not stop at or on your tape. go beyond it maybe 6 inches. Paint with a consistent distant from the surface and treat every panel as though it is flat. Never try to compensate for body lines or irregularities in surfaces. Always keep your gun at 90 deg to whatever surface you are painting. If you are on a curved surface simply spray every pass at a 90 deg to surface and change gun position as each pass progresses over panel. If you think today's cars are tough to paint try painting the trunk lid and rear 1/4s on a '69 or '70 Cadillac. Look up what they look like. Tail fins, sharp edges, recesses and huge flat surfaces meeting at one point. And most colors were high metallics...and clear coates. A great learning platform. Of course...everything is easy...if you know how. Right?
Thanks for another great video, Brian. Does this trick apply even if I am using the maximum recommended thinner in the first clearcoat coat to still add 10% on the second and third coat?
watching you spray the hood and you are not even watching what you are doing,dude your technique is top notch to pull that off,I would have had the air hose laying on the hood if I tried that
Brian , very informative video, If you need and idea for a future video I was thinking you could do one on how the scale works in the mixing room ? and average guy watch's the painter put the cup on the scale and start pouring product in , but I am sure there is a lot more to it . thanks for taking the time to make these videos Pete
Brian I've had a clear look great when I sprayed it but the next day it had on the sides and some spots on the top didn't shine like it did when I was done spraying it.
Being I’m just learning to paint, my question about painting in Texasheat. In a paint booth I built in half my garage which has 95 degrees. Paint was drying fast even with Slow activator. I was wondering if I could use a reducer to slow flashing alittle more. Thank you
I always thought it was best to let the last coat flash off for roughly double flash off time just to keep the top coat from sealing in the lower coats before putting the infrared lamps on the panels. Is that a no-no now? I had read in some industry newsletters that in production shops slowly ramping up the medium wave infrared heat would help cure all of the layers almost equally as medium wave infrared gets to the core of the object almost equally with the surface as opposed to long wave infrared, like a heat lamp on a buffet. And short wave does even deeper but has to be closer and it’s also more localized. I have noticed that when I get a run, if I’m quick and careful enough, I can use a heat gun and GENTLY apply some heat on the spot but also around the spot and keep the gun moving and for God’s sake I’ve learned the heard way to NOT let it get too hot. If you see smoke or steam it might be too late. But sometimes the heat will shrink away the wrinkle of the run as it accelerates the drying/curing, but if you don’t spread it out a bit it can have adverse reactions with the adjacent paint as the rate of cure is too much of a contrast with the adjacent paint and can cause serious wrinkling you can fix, peeling, blisters are the worst, but if you get it right you can get rid of a run without using a razor or even touching the surface at all. I’ve also used a quick and clean swipe with a latex gloves finger tip dipped in blending solvent but don’t let it drip on the panel. That can help melt that run and let it flow into adjacent paint, especially if you can make a slightly heated circular area around the run just before using the blending solvent. So what is it EXACTLY that creates orange peel? It appears to be several different disparate reasons which are attributed to causing orange peel. But even the OEMs have orange peel on their ultra controlled and robotically applied paints. What’s the score? Heat or no heat? Warm or not? I have witnessed paint get nice and glossy while applying a heat gun to dry up a run. It’s like it shrinks away the orange peel and pulls the sling tighter therefore making it more glossy. But it doesn’t seem to work on an entire panel. I don’t get it.
I believe orange peel is caused by the spray not being fine enough. Test the spray on a piece of cardboard and look at the edge of the fan all around top and bottom. It has to be a mist. If you see any big drops you need to up the pressure. Higher pressure will waste more paint or clear due to more over spray. Maybe that's why factories use lower pressure to save paint or clear and end up with orange peel. Try it on a small job and see for yourself. Here's another tip. Finish your last coat on top to minimize over spray landing on the horizontal surfaces.
Just a quick question, it's regarding painting clear over stickers. I'm contemplating painting over some die cut stickers similar to an OEM finish. Does the clear coat attack the vinyl sticker in anyway? I'll be spraying a Kawasaki ZX14R and on the OEM fairings it has flame stickers under the clear coat.
You can safely clearcoat over vinyl/paper decals with clear coat ONLY if you don't add a solvent (thinners) to the mix. Not worth the chance the solvent will lift and interact with the decal....so just mix the clear with the hardner
Hi brian,my garage booth sometime get high temp at 90 to 105 deg f,because i live in a hot asian country,do i need extra slow reducer for base and clearcoat especially?
Paint technical data sheets tell exactly what you need to know for each automotive paint. Most are available on the internet if you don't get one when you purchase paint. Modern urethane clear always has a hardener (aka catalyst).
An OEM finish has orange peel some manufacturers are better about it than others, but clear coat is designed to provide that same OEM texture and finish. That's not to say it's preferable to a glass-like finish it's not, it's just what it is designed to do to replicate it so it matches that appearance. Spray technique and mixology can help reduce it.
Are you talking about adding reducer that you would normally use for base coat? I have some extra reducer left from some paint I no longer use. It’s a different manufacturer from my clear; would this still work?
It should say urethane reducer on the can if you are using it in urethane clear. There should be no problem using a different brand as long as it isn't some no-name garbage.
Paint and clear shrinks 10 %, takes around 3-9 months depending on drying conditions. Your second coat will shrink down to your first. First should look like the last. To much reducer in clear will lead to cracking clear in the future, I'm sure we've all seen it on old paint jobs and know we now know why, use reducer only if required from manufacturer. it will lay down flat and when the solvents rise it will leave voids leading to cracks in the future. Position your hose behind your back, you hit the hood with hose. Start from the top of the panel down in my opinion. less material on the lower portions of the panels, AVOID PAINTING OVER THE DOOR HANDLE VOIDS, you can mist it later on if its dry, stop spraying before your reach the end of the panel, try painting the door in 3 sections rather than one shot, make sure the panels are warm, use slow hardener, push your needle in and TAKE YOUR TIME. You can inspect job and spray clear on dry spots after youve went around without leaving overspray if using slow hardener. it will look dry at first but with 5 minutes it will melt in. I appreciate what your doing and hope some of my tips help you get the results you're looking for.
Im a big fan. Question what’s the difference btw the 3M finishing glaze 31180 and the BONDO glazing and spot putty and which one do you recommend? Thanks
Best tip I could give someone is you get what you pay for! I’m in Australia so going off our prices.. but you can buy a 7 ltr ms clear kit for under 200 bucks.. but a really good hs clear can be over 500.. BIG DIFFERENCE in the finish but..
What is the reason after painting door or fender get fade in couple of weeks it looks dull what should we do to avoid this & gloss should remain as it is for long time
@@a.t.701 generally u use slow when the temperature is high, But i also use slow hardener when im doing a big job so the clear doesnt dry on me when im doing my passes.
I've been adding reducer to my clear for years and years. It really does help the clear lay flat.
Use slow activator so it has time to flow out and flatten out
@Chase Williams Its just the regular reducer you use with your basecoat. Just like he shows in the video it only takes a small amount and make sure you use the right temp rating, especially if your not in a climate controlled booth. He explains it perfectly in the video.
@Chase Williams not sure but can also purchase clear that has less solids ...the orange peel that does form is easier to buff out
@Chase Williams Reducer works similarly to thinner but with urethane base/clear systems you use reducer that is made to work with it. Thinner is more known for being used with acrylic enamel type paints. I know guys who have used regular thinner with their primer because thinner is cheaper than reducer but I've never personally heard of anyone using thinner with basecoat or clearcoat. Also when I first started painting some of the older guys who had worked with Acrylic enamel before urethane basecoat/clearcoat systems became norm still called the new reducer thinner because that's what they were used to but like I said its actually 2 different things but works similarly for different applications.
@Chase Williams You're correct, reducer is just another name for thinner. So every time you've used thinner, you've used reducer, and vice versa...
Thanks again Brian, my understanding of what the paint and clear coat is actually doing has really improved over the last couple of years watching you. Live long and prosper buddy 🙏
I spray outside. I have need adding thinners to my clear for years. Helps me get it smooth and I get a paint booth finish every time. Even spraying outside in the hot sun. No orange peel and I flow coat it saucy !
So humble, I feel blessed! Greetings from Hungary!
Years ago all the clears you added reducer. With current voc laws everything changed These high solids clears can be a challenge to spray. I’ve learned just a little reducer can help with that. Awesome video
I think thats what the last person who painted my truck did. It looked nice and smooth, but only lasted 5 years. Started flaking off and peeled. This is why i am watching your channel and re painted my truck.
BASF Glasurit clear is known to have extremely long life....enough for shops to give lifetime warranty
This is old knowledge to the new ones!! 👌🏼
I use to do this with model kits & an airbrush way back when
I like to do first 2 coats, let it sit approx 36 hrs, wetsand with 1500 to remove any surface trash, dust runs, etc. Then set up the clear again for 2 more coats but use reducer as you noted. Turns the now matte sanded and smooth surface into a high quality finish. I like this method cause if these last 2 coats aren't overly heavy, and any dust that does stick at this point will be settling into a rather thin coat of clear and easily buffed out with a light polish in most cases.
This is referred to as flow coating....I've been trying it recently with good result
Too much work using 1500 grit' 600/800 is fine enough and levels the clear out faster rather than polishing over it.
@BryanClark-gk6ie I meant 1k. 600/800 only if lots of build up or a drip/run in clear..I'm cautious though and picky. Don't wannt cut the paint, especially metallic lol.
@@phillipgrandison2384
You can always dust a little base coats over the areas if you happen to sand through the CC.
@@BryanClark-gk6ie Ive hit it with 1000, but on a palm sander with a foam interface pad. I just dont have the balls to go any harder. Mind you, I'm always using stupid expensive base coat colors.
Really appreciate your videos. Trying to soak this all in, I've done a few diy panels in the past with decent results out of a spray can, but finally doing a full color change on one of my rides this Spring. Can't wait! Thanks for arming me with extra knowledge Brian, you the man.
Great to hear!
I need to do that. I'm a "newb" painter, self taught by watching RUclips videos and I almost always have a vehicle covered in orange peel when I'm done
Use slow activator bro ...the slow drying helps give the clear time to flatten out
@@mariocooldude9092 that is my plan from now on
great video, by adding reducer you are changing the viscosity (thickness) of the clear. The thinner (less viscosity) the clear the less orange peel. but you are flirting with a higher chance of runs and sags. I the TDS there is a suggested viscosity to spray all top coats. To measure this viscosity you have to do a viscosity drip test. To get a perfect job you have to do perfect chemistry. This means not guessing and knowing what your spraying. (for the advanced class) Another educational vid.
That's why I'm #1 fan of paint society ❤🎉😅
That’s my old trick. You did a great job, it looks awesome!
Most clears I use these days are high solid clears and they all require reducer and just like laying base pick the reducer speed to match the temp .
My favorite clear . It’s been on back order since July here in NC .
Great information. Thanks
Thank you for these videos. It’s helped me sharpen up my paint game so much
Glad to help
Great tips! Making these changes makes a big difference in your finish.
Thank you for all your help
Jon Kosmoski did that years ago on the second session of clear after sanding 600p . He called it "flow coat" lol
What about on a 3rd coat? Should i use the Same 10% reducer as 2nd coat ratio? 😎👍 Thanks buddy! 🤘
Gives you 700 scenarios where you can screw up------- Video ends, "dont overthink it, its just paint" lmao, thanks for all the help and confidence youve given me as a newbie into this craft!
I haven’t had any problems with orange peal in my clear coat painting in temperatures 85 to 62 degrees. The only issues I have had is switching from upper grade paints to lower grade paints. The higher grade paints lay smooth and flat, while the lower grade paints finish is rough with a leather grain finish like the K2 primer which requires wet sanding. The only way taround it is extra coats of clear to fill in the valleys of the rough paint finish. Sure, I can wet sand the lower grade paints to make them smooth and flat… but why sand off expensive paint material and risk sanding down to the primer.
From my personal experience as a hobby painter I will pay the money for the upper grade paint so I can use less clear coats to cover up the sins of the lower grade paints. Any tips on making the cheaper lower grade paint lay smooth and flat? Thank you!
Great tip
Thank you bossman for this information
Here in pa I do it on 3 coat
You're the goat brother. 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾. The best teacher on RUclips
Hey brother. I been watching your channel. Keep it up
Great tip. Thanks for sharing. Love this channel.
Great tips Brian.. Keep up good works..
Brian you must have an angel on your shoulder.....proximity of hose to hood at 2:11 - 2:13 on this video.
I know quite a few painters in the production shop environment that adds a little reducer in the clear. I myself don’t do that and most paint do old skool and custom paint jobs don’t either. We know we’re going to cut and buff anyway
Great info. I always learn something. Thank you
Glad I watched. Switched to HS clear with reducer recently and i`ve had issues with runs.
Hold back on your thinners so dude.just use it without the thinners should help you
2:34 this has me laughing. This is a work of art
A great video Brian thanks for the insight, I will try this next time I spray
Hello Brian. You said do this hack on the second coat. what about the third coat? Thank you
I find temperature-matching the reducer or hardener is best, with maximum air pressure for whatever gun being used. The higher atomization occurs with higher pressure at the gun. Combined with speed and distance, one shouldn't need extra reducer.
Ah Man U know as well as me.. some products, we use protech maxi glaze, you totally can over reduce a little.. I go 20 percent on coat 1 and 2 and 25 on my third coat.. I always go 3 clear.. I know some shops won’t let you because the margins are so tight, but 3 clear always looks better to me with the 3rd being over reduced a little.
25%? dam thats alot imo but if it works for u then great! I just started reducing my clear by 5% and it makes a world of difference. If ur using cheap clear like me, putting the extra coat of clear on cost like $30 for your typical front end job. IMO not much if u want a ok paint job to look like a great paint job.
Sigh... what a beautiful finish. Better than factory made. here in Africa we cannot even buy the products needed. And I have 3 classics that need redoing. 73 VW Bug, 83 Nissan Patrol, 93 Volvo 850 wagon.
Hey thanks for this video, just showed it to my class and they loved it!!
Your videos are fantastic. I learned how to paint at a trade school, you would be a great instructor. I switched to the body side but still paint a little on the side. Is there a chance you can make videos about budget/midgrade single stage?
5% for volume on medium solid
10% for volume on high solid
On each coat 👍
Thank you as always Brain!!
Great information Brian
I love a white vehicle. I really need to do a color change on my old Buick.
i use reducer extra slow for the 3 layer😊😊😊.. give me nice n flat
Great video Brian. Thanks for the tips Sir
Thanks for the great advice brother
Wish you were closer to me. I need someone to fix my tri coat metallic paint. The guy who sprayed it needs to watch more of your videos. I’m in Las Vegas
Hye dude i realy like your all video .that great. End i want to ask . Can i use slow thinner at basecoat? Or just use regular 2k thinner. With the best? Thanks i hope you reply🙏🫰☺️
Great tip, I was using reducer on the 1st coat too. Now I know better. Thx Brian!
Can I add the slower solvents to help with single stage solid colors too?
Great tips! Don't forget to protect your eyes too!
Another great tip
Perfect class🎉
You may want to run your hose up your arm from the gun over your shoulders behind your neck and hold it with your other hand to keep from dragging the hose on the fender or the hood. A simple technique to save a load of problems in your finish. I painted cars for more than 30 years and found this technique of hose handling to be great at saving myself a lot of grief. Holding it in front of your body like that is asking for a lot more work.
I used that reducer hack for a lot of years but I used it in both coates. And as far as build up on edges...good spray technique will solve that. Never stop on any edge. Always spray beyond any edge or gap. Always overlap your masking. do not stop at or on your tape. go beyond it maybe 6 inches. Paint with a consistent distant from the surface and treat every panel as though it is flat. Never try to compensate for body lines or irregularities in surfaces. Always keep your gun at 90 deg to whatever surface you are painting. If you are on a curved surface simply spray every pass at a 90 deg to surface and change gun position as each pass progresses over panel.
If you think today's cars are tough to paint try painting the trunk lid and rear 1/4s on a '69 or '70 Cadillac. Look up what they look like. Tail fins, sharp edges, recesses and huge flat surfaces meeting at one point. And most colors were high metallics...and clear coates. A great learning platform.
Of course...everything is easy...if you know how. Right?
Should I use less reducer in a little bit cooler environment would that help with less orange peel as well
Where i live its cold..and most clears are hs not ms...so its a bit like spraying soup if you don't use reducer
great work and tips my friend 👌
Thanks for another great video, Brian. Does this trick apply even if I am using the maximum recommended thinner in the first clearcoat coat to still add 10% on the second and third coat?
Are there some clears that are more prone to orange peel versus others? Thank you
I have a silver car and planning on changing the color to red. Do you have a video of a color change vehicle?
watching you spray the hood and you are not even watching what you are doing,dude your technique is top notch to pull that off,I would have had the air hose laying on the hood if I tried that
Great tips again sir! 10%
hey ... first coat gun air pressure?....... any different air pressure for the reduced 2nd coat?
i paint in between 50 and 60Degree in england and i also add reducer to my clear.
Brian , very informative video, If you need and idea for a future video I was thinking you could do one on how the scale works in the mixing room ? and average guy watch's the painter put the cup on the scale and start pouring product in , but I am sure there is a lot more to it . thanks for taking the time to make these videos Pete
Thanks mr Brian you videos help me alot am from MALAWI
The orange peal hack is awesome, what i want to learn though is how to snap my fingers and all the masking is done lol
Same here!
Does this apply to the last clear coat? What if u put down 3-4 coats.
Nice video.
Brian I've had a clear look great when I sprayed it but the next day it had on the sides and some spots on the top didn't shine like it did when I was done spraying it.
Being I’m just learning to paint, my question about painting in Texasheat. In a paint booth I built in half my garage which has 95 degrees. Paint was drying fast even with Slow activator. I was wondering if I could use a reducer to slow flashing alittle more. Thank you
Add retarder.
This whole time I’ve been reducing my first coat 😂
me too, and now i will try this second coat method...
It’s ok if you reduce your first coat. If your not having issues, don’t change it.
I had actually started to just not reduce it and just make sure to spray a heavy second coat with plenty of fluid
guilty
I always thought it was best to let the last coat flash off for roughly double flash off time just to keep the top coat from sealing in the lower coats before putting the infrared lamps on the panels. Is that a no-no now? I had read in some industry newsletters that in production shops slowly ramping up the medium wave infrared heat would help cure all of the layers almost equally as medium wave infrared gets to the core of the object almost equally with the surface as opposed to long wave infrared, like a heat lamp on a buffet. And short wave does even deeper but has to be closer and it’s also more localized. I have noticed that when I get a run, if I’m quick and careful enough, I can use a heat gun and GENTLY apply some heat on the spot but also around the spot and keep the gun moving and for God’s sake I’ve learned the heard way to NOT let it get too hot. If you see smoke or steam it might be too late. But sometimes the heat will shrink away the wrinkle of the run as it accelerates the drying/curing, but if you don’t spread it out a bit it can have adverse reactions with the adjacent paint as the rate of cure is too much of a contrast with the adjacent paint and can cause serious wrinkling you can fix, peeling, blisters are the worst, but if you get it right you can get rid of a run without using a razor or even touching the surface at all. I’ve also used a quick and clean swipe with a latex gloves finger tip dipped in blending solvent but don’t let it drip on the panel. That can help melt that run and let it flow into adjacent paint, especially if you can make a slightly heated circular area around the run just before using the blending solvent. So what is it EXACTLY that creates orange peel? It appears to be several different disparate reasons which are attributed to causing orange peel. But even the OEMs have orange peel on their ultra controlled and robotically applied paints. What’s the score? Heat or no heat? Warm or not? I have witnessed paint get nice and glossy while applying a heat gun to dry up a run. It’s like it shrinks away the orange peel and pulls the sling tighter therefore making it more glossy. But it doesn’t seem to work on an entire panel. I don’t get it.
I believe orange peel is caused by the spray not being fine enough. Test the spray on a piece of cardboard and look at the edge of the fan all around top and bottom. It has to be a mist. If you see any big drops you need to up the pressure. Higher pressure will waste more paint or clear due to more over spray. Maybe that's why factories use lower pressure to save paint or clear and end up with orange peel. Try it on a small job and see for yourself. Here's another tip. Finish your last coat on top to minimize over spray landing on the horizontal surfaces.
Hi Brian, can we do the same for the second coat even if spraying single stage paint? Thanks
You can try it is yes
Just a quick question, it's regarding painting clear over stickers. I'm contemplating painting over some die cut stickers similar to an OEM finish. Does the clear coat attack the vinyl sticker in anyway? I'll be spraying a Kawasaki ZX14R and on the OEM fairings it has flame stickers under the clear coat.
No clear coat will not effect the vinyl stickers. Just to be safe it’s best to use low VOC clear.
You can safely clearcoat over vinyl/paper decals with clear coat ONLY if you don't add a solvent (thinners) to the mix. Not worth the chance the solvent will lift and interact with the decal....so just mix the clear with the hardner
It would be nice to see a Urechem review
Thanks
So this flow trick is for the LAST coat?...say if I'm spraying 3 coats..?
Your the man
Hi brian,my garage booth sometime get high temp at 90 to 105 deg f,because i live in a hot asian country,do i need extra slow reducer for base and clearcoat especially?
I will go ahead and tell you yes, especially for an overall paint job. You might get away with slow for small jobs.
Is it necessary to add some kind of hardener to clearcoat when spray painting a car or is this optional?
Paint technical data sheets tell exactly what you need to know for each automotive paint. Most are available on the internet if you don't get one when you purchase paint. Modern urethane clear always has a hardener (aka catalyst).
Does it matter what brand of reducer
An OEM finish has orange peel some manufacturers are better about it than others, but clear coat is designed to provide that same OEM texture and finish. That's not to say it's preferable to a glass-like finish it's not, it's just what it is designed to do to replicate it so it matches that appearance. Spray technique and mixology can help reduce it.
What type of reducer should be used for thinning clear
Are you talking about adding reducer that you would normally use for base coat? I have some extra reducer left from some paint I no longer use. It’s a different manufacturer from my clear; would this still work?
It should say urethane reducer on the can if you are using it in urethane clear. There should be no problem using a different brand as long as it isn't some no-name garbage.
Can you do this hack on the 2nd and 3rd coat??
Paint and clear shrinks 10 %, takes around 3-9 months depending on drying conditions. Your second coat will shrink down to your first. First should look like the last. To much reducer in clear will lead to cracking clear in the future, I'm sure we've all seen it on old paint jobs and know we now know why, use reducer only if required from manufacturer. it will lay down flat and when the solvents rise it will leave voids leading to cracks in the future.
Position your hose behind your back, you hit the hood with hose. Start from the top of the panel down in my opinion. less material on the lower portions of the panels, AVOID PAINTING OVER THE DOOR HANDLE VOIDS, you can mist it later on if its dry, stop spraying before your reach the end of the panel, try painting the door in 3 sections rather than one shot, make sure the panels are warm, use slow hardener, push your needle in and TAKE YOUR TIME. You can inspect job and spray clear on dry spots after youve went around without leaving overspray if using slow hardener. it will look dry at first but with 5 minutes it will melt in. I appreciate what your doing and hope some of my tips help you get the results you're looking for.
Would like to know where to get the paint scale
Im a big fan.
Question what’s the difference btw the 3M finishing glaze 31180 and the BONDO glazing and spot putty and which one do you recommend? Thanks
The spot putty is usually only out of a tube and an inferior product
You risk solvent boil going your first coat standard reducer and then going a slower reducer in the next coats..
Best tip I could give someone is you get what you pay for! I’m in Australia so going off our prices.. but you can buy a 7 ltr ms clear kit for under 200 bucks.. but a really good hs clear can be over 500.. BIG DIFFERENCE in the finish but..
1:1 Epoxy adding 20% reducer as a sealer? how do you figure in percentages?
Hahaha not looking you're killing me smalls .looks good
What is the reason after painting door or fender get fade in couple of weeks it looks dull what should we do to avoid this & gloss should remain as it is for long time
Does this hack work on water-based?
What compressor are you using with dv1
You should add 10% from clear coat quantity or from the quantity from clear coat + hardener? On my clear coat it says 2:1 + 10-30%
Hi Brian, would you still use slow activator even when spraying in 70F? What about 60F? Thanks.
You can use medium
Thanks. So when you were saying to use slow, you were saying that because your temps were 80/85F and higher, correct?
@@a.t.701 generally u use slow when the temperature is high, But i also use slow hardener when im doing a big job so the clear doesnt dry on me when im doing my passes.