Why Mid Drive eBikes are Better than Hub Motor eBikes
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Should you buy a mid drive ebike or a hub motor bike? In this edition of my two part series we discuss the advantages of a mid drive over hub motor bike builds. The best mid drive motors are in my opinion are the Bafang BBSHD and CYC photon. These are most commonly used in electric mountain bikes or eMTB.
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How about the pros and cons of wearing Socks With Sandals.
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Bbshd mid drive is great - very versatile, robust, doesn’t overheat at stock settings. I was underwhelmed with the G62 on stock 48v, on the other hand with 72v its incredible. I have been hesitant to upgrade the BBSHD to 72V because i question the bicycle drivetrain’s ability to hold up to 4kw. But from what I’ve seen, 72v bsshd can be very good if you’re willing to break things
Do it, a lot of people seem to question the drive trains ability to handle lots of power without actually running it imo. Most important thing is to stick to 9 speeds or less (so thicker stronger parts), all steel cassette, good chainline, and don't shift under power! Been running my bbshd at 2.5kw for 2.2k miles and 4kw 1.5k miles and no issues! 1500miles per chain and double that per cassette. Just also make sure to have a good hub that can handle it, dt swiss with the star ratchet is recommended!
Hub motor: I've got 1500 miles on a FS geared hub motor 21ah 750w emtb (modded to 1600ish).
Mid drive: I've got almost 2k miles on a carbon mid drive fs bafang M620 with a 3kw controller.
Mid drive 100%. Especially when you have a torque sensor. I can climb anything in the world. I removed the throttle. Display can show class 3 limits. Very efficient in all but just cruising pavement at over 30+ mph. A hubby prob would do that better.
I'd add, the first bike listed is the way I'd go for urban travel. Prob change to direct drive.
I go up my 25% gravel (Rubble!) driveway frequently on my 20" wheel Ebo FoldiE.. hub drive 350W, piece of cake. When it comes to climbing it's torque, watts, and PAS. I ride my Middies up it too, with the same alacrity. Cheers
I rode both types, mid drive is easier to change a flat.
This is a complete beat up IMO.. I've changed both. Apppart from disconnecting the HT power-suppy cable M/F connetor, there's almost not difference in difficulty . I'm sorry, but this rumour faalls clearly in the "old wive's tale" bin of urban myths. Cheers
You didn't also talk about maintenance....flat tires brakes or changing cassettes but yeah the mid drive is more complex and needs to be greased but will last a long time. Hub motors can be made bad as well or burn out due to bad quality. It's all a balancing act but I like mid drives better I had hubs for 6yrs and got over it. If you have good parts the mid drive is better long term.
It's all about preference
I'm building a dual-motor Specialized Demo. Using two Grin all-axle motors. Hopefully it will be exciting.
With all of that room, in the center of the frame, you should throw a four cylinder, into it 😁
If you want a seriously powerful mid-drive for the p51 look into the LightningRods mid-drive kits. His smallest motor the "small block" can handle 1.5x the power of a bbshd, combine that with a HV asi controller and it would be a great fit for the p51 if you wanted to go mid-drive in the future
He mentioned that CYC has more models than the photon. Their other chain driven models have more output.
I agree with your handlebar choice comfort first I did put a bafang 750w mid-drive on my mountain bike but the fat tyre cafe racer style bike came with 1000w mid-drive because you need a motor like that to sale you up hills easily I don't go mountain biking much I just ride it on the road and in town its easier to move around in busy street and it's fune in parks jumping of sidewalks small drops mid-drives are fun 😅
If you are intending to buy a purpose built mid drive electric bike go for it they do climb walls. But they are Much more expensive than hub units. Also if you are thinking of doing your favorite bike with a DIY conversion kit it is far cheaper and easier to built with a hub system because again Mid drives are very expensive and you don't just add new motor to bottom bracket but you will need a heavier chain and rear free wheel to handle the power of it. Where as the hub motor puts pretty much no stress on chain until you at pedaling motor off. I look at how I will be riding my ebike to most, I ride around the neighborhood, local trails, down town I am no mountain biker nor cyclist I ride for fun and transportation so hub serves me fine and cost very little. If you are going to do mostly off road riding "Mountain biking" hunting fishing mid drive is the way! one DIY Ebike builder tip when hanging your equipment on the frame Be Sure to do so on the Hub motor supply wire of that kit. this makes working on the bike in the future much easier. also some kits give you plenty of wire to work with but during wire management don't stash away you motor hub wire leave all slack on the rear fork so changing flats is much easier.
You don't want to put a Bafang BBSHD on that single speed bike, that would be a waste...Personally I have had several mountain bikes with a BBSHD, 30 amp controller and higher..I always put BMX hanle bars, suspension seat post, and a big comfy cloud nine seat and saddle bags on them..They always go between 35-40 mph, and I think they are the best bang for the buck..I also like smaller bikes with 20 inch fat tires and hub motors, but generally you need a hub motor on the front and back to get the same performance as a BBSHD, which costs twice as much..Unless you can get a more powerful controller..
I gotta say, those rear drive motors are terrible on hills. My mid drive Yamaha syncdrive has 360%assistance launching me past any rear drive with minimal effort.
I've been doing a lot of research as I would like to do an electric bike.
From everything I've seen it seems like a mid drive, with a CVT in the back connected by a belt is perfect
I don't know if that exists. I'm just putting together things I've seen
Right now I like to go for 2-hour bike rides, on Palm Beach Island, so mostly flat ground except going over the bridge, right now. I have a mountain bike and I can actually stay in the saddle and just gear down.
But I'd like to be able to go faster and farther, but still getting the same amount of exercise
Will an electric bike allow me to work just as hard for 2 hours, but say double the distance I can actually travel. I can only go a certain distance from my home so it gets really boring. Since I'm already as far east as you can go without hitting the ocean, I only really have three choices each time I ride
Dost offers an Enviolo rear hub with a belt driven by a mid-drive Bafang motor. The only reason I haven't bought one, is the cadence sensor. I'd rather have a torque sensor.
Not just for mnt bike trails. I live in Tacoma and have tons of hills all around me. I went with a 750 watt mid drive by biktrix and haven't regretted it. Hub motors are utterly gutless on hills of any significance.
about bicycle mid drive doesnt have regen brake and hub motor just bad at bumpy road. but electric motorcycles have regen brake with mid drive. motorcycle with big hub motor have bigger shock inside of rear wheel on bumpy road especially high speed with the bigger hub motor for motorcycle rear suspension cant do anything for it so all the shock from every bump on the road damages the motor and rear wheel over time. so your bicycle already dont have rear suspension then just hub motor it, and for motorcycle just choose mid drive one
where did u order your custom battery?
mid drive is much better for off road use !!! Recently i have challenge a friend with 750 mid ( i have 750 rear hub) to a 100km asphalt race !!!! Results was that i was 1st with a big difference in time !!!! .(..secret was ... use your legs and....clever riding !!!)
I wish there was somebody who made a 30mph+ throttle emtb that has similar build, specs, and refinement as these luxury main brand emtb manufacturers. All I been able to find are fat tire temu Aliexpress looking as bikes. Appreciate any suggestions you got?
I like to think of midrive motors as the motor assisting me at a constant percentage of my peddling power, whereas a hub motor, I set the petal assistant level on a controller, but the rest is me pedalling to assist the motor instead of the other way around.
I know that this is technically the difference between a torque sensor and a cadence sensor, but generally, middrives tend to have torque sensors, and hub motors tend to use cadence sensors because a middrive with a cadence sensor set with the pedal assistance too high and the gears also set too high could literally snap the metal bike chain.
Technically midrives have both cadence and torque sensors.
In Europe there are very little bikes with thumb-drive, almost all of them are pedal-assist only because you don't need insurance for a pedal-assist-only bike. I guess thats why ~75% of sold e-bikes in Germany are mid-drive bikes.
How about we talk about the fact that you've already talked about this and I feel like this is clickbait
Why do Mid-drive motor eBikes have more torque than hub? Is it that mid-drive motors' torque is measured where the tire meets the road after running thru the lowest geat? But hub drives are measured at the hub drive?
Another advantage of hub motors is that 70nm+ hub torque is much more than 120nm mid torque, when using high gear that is convenient for top speed pedaling. Mid drives can struggle on dead starts. It may not be as natural, but a cadence PAS set to 20kmh will get around blue trails or steep climbs with throttle and low gear, with enough control to not take any jumps you don't want to.
5:15. This is really ridiculous, you don't need to jump all the way to the very top of the mid-drive section to get a good mid-drive. The Bafang BBS02, which is a 750W unit, is extremely reliable, and is only $400, and will smash a 1KW+ hub motor. Sure, probs don't want to hook this up to a Walmart special, but there are tons of "real" bikes with real components being sold used out there. Those represent a much better option than buying junk from Walmart at the same price point. If you want torque sensing, there is the 500W Tongsheng TSDZ2 also for $400, it's not quite as power as the BBS02, but between the easy roll on power from the torque sensor and the lower power, you'll be a lot nicer to your drivetrain, and it'll still blow away almost all hub setups.
$400 of hub motor and controller is like 10-20 kW from the battery range...
@@difflocktwo that is a semantically null statement. Mind trying again?
@@bujin5455$400 of hub motor and controller is like "10-20-kW-from-the-battery" range...
@@bujin5455 Meaning you can get a beast of a motor and controller setup for 400 USD doll hairs.
@@difflocktwo you're not making any sense. Like I don't even know what you're trying to say.
what seat do you have there? My seat gives me saddle sore when I ride it for over an hour.
In Europe,, UK, Australia and much of the World anything over a 250W motor is illegal.
Australian here, im guessing the only option thats viable is a Mid Drive being limited to 250W?
Power is power, does not matter if it hub or mid drive.
I’ve found a e-bike that you haven’t reviewed and I think it would make a good video of you covering it, is there anyway to contact you
The pedaling experience being natural or not is up to the sensor and programming. I have the option of using cadence or torque sensing with the Phaserunner, but well programmed dynamic pedal assist with cadence sensing has been satisfying enough to remove any urgency to change. Where mid drives excel are on mountain bikes where the gearing goes below 1 to 1 ratio. Other uses are not as favorable, and I often avoid being behind mid drive road bikes and commuter bikes because they get in the way on hills.
What about a hub on front and back?
hi:)
Idk, you never see a hill climb race back in the wood on a real mountain bike trail, mid drive vs 1,000-watt geared bafang. Once you start putting 1500 w + to a geared hub the mid drives can't keep up. The real issue is the drivetrain can't withstand the abuse, while the hub motor The strain is divided. That's why the mid-drives can't keep up with the geared hub motors on the trails. Once you add the human element, the advantage almost completely disappears for the mid drive.
What is the link for those handlebars?
A 2kw motor on a mid drive would certainly strain any chain for an 8 speed derailleur set.. it's really becoming a motorcycle not a bicycle with pedal assist😂
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It;s really hard to decide which one is right for me when my budget is keep going up the more I do research,,,
Most reviews and comparisons are made under bike's spec itself only w/ wide open area either on flat or hills.
However, including myself, those who live in heavy traffic city dealing w/ cars, signals and bunch people each block that requires stopping and starting on a frequent basis, HUB-motor might be more suited w/ throttle combo unless you want to stress yourself shifting gear constantly.
But then again there is IGH which I'm new about
I dont think its bad to let your budget creep up a bit.... unless you plan on buying several bikes.
just make sure you TEST as many as possible.
i did a hub drive already, but the Peddal Assist in the parking lot test drive made me self impose a limit of 10 MPH (half of its rated speed)
but i do wanna test a bike at 20 mph but yeah im testing Mid drive bike next
Yeah Mid-drive wins if we were to test performance right at the moment. But thinks can be different if we were to testing within certain time frame like 5-6 month.
I believe Mid vs Hub drive is like performance vs convenience@@ericolens3
@@edhyunsoolee2683 for stop and and go, you want regen. otherwise your brake maintenance costs will be huge.
But Wy?
Don’t agree with the title at all lol
Cyclone: pain enjoyers