Thanks as always for your support! This was a painful upload! If you haven't already please consider subscribing! And help us achieve the 50k sub milestone! Cheers 🙌🏼
I left your channel as it was a painful watch, 40 yrs on the spanner’s tells me it was going to end in disaster which it did…several times, I’ve enough negatively going on in my boring life already . Good luck though and hope you get her singing.
I am really enjoying watching your build and glad you are getting so much help from experienced guys. I can't help but please use this money for your next sausage and bacon sarnie on me, maybe it helps fuel you to the finish line.
A tip for the future. If the head is coming off for this sort of work and all the original parts are going back on ( not the gasket obviously ) . Set the engine to tdc on one with everything lined up and mark the cam sprockets and chain with a paint pen. Provided the crank is in the same position for re assembly its a lot easier to get the cam timing right first time.
sorry I should have remembered. Regarding changing the piston rings, looking at the work you have put in so far I think for a non mechanic you have done extremely well. I would bet replacing the rings would not have been a big issue for you, don't cut yourself short and finish the bike, when you take the first ride you will find its been all worth it, @@BikesofRye
I was Senior Product Engineer for one of the 3 major European gasket manufacturers before I retired - and my view is that although replacing the CHG (cylinder head gasket) again guarantees 100% safety, in your case it probably wasn't needed as it hadn't been through a heat cycle. Old fibre CHGs definitely crush once (they rely on the crush to densify the fibre material, and embed the bore eyelets into the fibre), but an MLS (multi layer steel) CHG has embossments to focus the clamp load to where it is required. As long as you have a decent quality CHG where the functional (embossed) layers are made of spring steel (rather than some Chinese gaskets with mild steel functional layers!), they should not lose their 'set' on one clamping and unclamping. The heat cycle does affect the coating (probably FPM) and so if the gasket has been taken to full operating temperature, microsealing could be compromised by unclamping and reclamping. But keep it up - I truly admire your tenacity!!!!
Might be worth checking the calibration of the torque wrench. Think we you were turning the engine over using the front sprocket. You appeared to be turning the sprocket clockwise. If so this will be turning the crank the "wrong" way, pulling the cam chain against the cam chain tensioner,. This can cause problems and might be why the timing was out. From memory, recommended way to turn the crank on these. Take the cap off the end of the crank. Screw in a bolt with a nut on it, tighten the nut against the crank to lock the bolt. Then you can use a spanner on the bolt to rotate the crank. Also, grinding the valves in might well have tightened up the valve clearances. Probably worth checking the clearances again. Also provides a double check against any valves / buckets / shims being mixed up.
Can't wait for someone to spend FIVE HOURS critiquing your efforts at the weekend rather than doing something himself...... Well done on carrying on with it
Why dont you address your perceived issues with that "guy?" Ryan. Make a video, and it might go viral and you may achieve the insta famous that you so desire.
The way you test if your valves are seated correctly. You either put fluid on the face of the valve and use compressed air to blow through the intake track or the exhaust track. If the fluid bubbles you’re not sealed correctly. Or you pour fluid down the intake track or the exhaust track if it leaks through then you have leak. There’s another way too but that involves more tools that usually machine shops have. But simply pouring fluid on the face of the valve and seeing if it leaks through is a flawed way of testing. I’m enjoying your content it’s pretty hilarious 😆
For a complete novice dude you’re smashing it! But please don’t be afraid of having longer videos I think 20-30 mins is ideal! So stop feeling like you have to cut them down so short!
Good vid as usual. You did remove those valve stem oil sills before you set about grinding those valves in again ? and you fitted new ones afterwards. looked like you left the old ones on. Id be concerned the amount of thread you pulled out head to , that really needs an insert doing, that bolt will probaly pull once it gets hot. Tricky buisness engine building with no formal training or help. Keep going you will get there.
Hate to say this, but as you have ground the valves in, you need to check the valve clearances again. Grinding them in you've removed material from the valve seat so the stem will be higher an close the valve clearances. But I love the project.
Hi mate, Did you recheck the valve clearances? That could have caused your rough running and low compression if you had made a mistake the first time you put the engine back together, worth double checking 👍
OK so I’ve been watching all 14 episodes so far and I’m treating this as a Bible because I recently just picked up a 1997 Yamaha thunder Ace 1000 myself. The previous owner said the motor was blown and I have yet to dive into it other than taking basics apart have not gotten into the engine yet how can I get in touch with you personally if possible to touch base with you for details in the future because honestly the videos and your help are amazing. I just need more. I hope this helps to understand what your videos do for others.
Ah mate that absolutely sucks, I think if you are gonna do vital internal engine torque specs you need to spend top dollar on a torque wrench other wise it might not be accurate Also it's absolutely vital to get an air compressor to blow out bolt holes to clear anything that might have gone into the holes
As much as I enjoy your videos and I do admire you for having a go, you have proven beyond any shadow of a doubt that unless you really know what your doing then leave well alone or get somebody who really knows what there doing to help you, a good engine builder is a true artist. And if cam cap bolts strip again, get the head helicoiled they are brilliant,, because I had the same thing happens to me on my z1000 rebuild. 👍
There is a good reason why a mechanical apprenticeship takes 3 to 4 years to complete, you need to get some schooling by someone who knows what they are doing.
Well done top effort before you put the engine back into the bike test the compression? I agree you probably didn't need to replace the piston rings but could you see the cross hatching on them were they glazed? last thing you could helicoil if you had stripped the thread well done again top effort
Another little bit, should avoid using extensions with a torque wrench as it can throw the numbers off. also should try and torque in one motion, my method is tighten up normally then final torque with the wrench
20k km from new = 12k miles so it’s barely run in ! Remind us why you even took the head off in the first place to lap the valves and break everything given that mileage ? So a wise move not to do the rings . Next please tell us you have you’ve checked the fuel flow to the carbs and start the bike on a simple fuel bottle rig rather than with the tank on this time.
Are you suggesting that the requirement to rebuild motorcycles, as a hobby, in my spare time. Only requires five years of engineering training? Sign me up!
You're risking the life of the victim you give this bike away to if you get it wrong. It's probably worth getting a mechanic to check over your work. It's not a 50cc, like u said. it's a superbike.
Being honest??? OK here it goes……. Lot of work!!! Learning process!! Just don’t spend 10,000$. To make it run. You needed to read a mechanics manual on HOW TO REBUILD A BIKE ENGINE….. if you did you might think twice about this project. Like I said being honest here. Your not dumb, just don’t know. Knowledge is power.
Pain in the butt but think how much less you had to check how to and torque specs you probably got it all memorised now, hard learning curve then it gets easier, still frustrating moments though 😂. Do a easier bike next, give yourself a break. Work upto the v4s 😱🤣🤣🤣...
😢Blowtorch to cherryred🔥 for heat cycle, can't remember if needed an this engines and leave exhaust manifold on it to heat the rusty dirty mf studs 😢 take care good luck with your rebuild bro, like watching your channel
Having owned a Thunderace and in fact touring Europe on one in 2005, which only had 24000 on the clock. I would have replaced the piston rings bud and honed the bores. Mine used oil badly due to rings, they are a weak point on that engine. Just saying
Should never reuse bolt's like this because they all stressed & overstretched. I've always use brand spanking new for anything internal, but it's doable with Old
Really admire what you’re doing, just one piece of advice though, get yourself a tap wrench. It’s so important when tapping a hole that the tap is going in straight and square, something that can never be achieved using an adjustable wrench or even a normal wrench/spanner.
I still think not replacing the piston rings and getting the bores honed is false economy,yes it's only done 20.000 miles but the bores were corroded quite badly from standing for years and a good "seal" is crucial to good compression.
please open the throttle when doing compression check, you have based low compression on a flawed test, dont mean to sound rude lol also bro WD40 is good lube for tapping aluminium :)
Valve clearances will need doing again and after a few heat cycles expect that cap bolt to pull out, also turned a r reg bike to a n reg bike by replacing the frame, half the engine is no longer the same. That bike is no longer the one you started with and has no emotional attachment apart from 25% of original parts I would call it a day and walk away it’s only now being rebuilt for views.
Great vid Buddy . I would have did the rings tho when you had it out. Still . Hopefully when you reinstall the engine it will start with no issues . Fingers crossed for you . Keep the faith 🙂
Valves probably didn't need grinding. Head gaskets are a one shot use only. Always run a tap down the threads when rebuilding engines .this will stop bolts breaking and screwing the ends off. Just some rebuild tips for you I bet there's nothing wrong with the piston rings.
Your bottom end is growling, as a consequence from removing the surface rust from the bores after leaving the engine outside. You did not clean out all the grit and now your bottom end is toast. Yes, your valves and gasket are leaking, but it’s the knocking that you need to address
This was a very good video. Usually, I don’t so apologies for giving advice. A small high-end torque wrench for low torque applications is a must, and at least a low-end compressor, but making sure to put good quality filters to keep the water out of whatever you’re blasting with air. I’m sure you’ve already considered all of the above. Just trying to help. OK keep up the great work, Rye👏
I gotta be honest, i would left the top end alone to start with , at those miles it probably wouldn't of needed any attention, from memory the first valve inspection isnt until 25 thou , i could be wrong
We've all been there, and will be there again, some time in the future. Great video's and a real reflection of how most of us 'fumble' through our repairs and restoratios. Don't give up - He who perseveres, never stops learning!
to all the negative comments about the builder. No one learns by getting things right the first time. I am a toolroom machinist by trade and not an expert on motorcycle's. That did not stop me from building a Harris framed GPZ. I had a big bore block installed and assembled the whole engine. I also messed up the valve timing first go and bent a valve when turning the engine by hand. It did not stop me from carrying on. I ended up with one monster bike. I also converted a 1973 Kawasaki H2 triple to case reed induction. I was told by a well know Kawasaki expert it would never work. It ended up going from the standard 72bhp to 130 rear wheel HP and is now a very sort after motorcycle. Never let anybody stop you having a go.
I'd of done the rings... Loads easier than the works you've already achieved... Maybe just me but whilst stripped down that far might save revisiting 😐 keep up.the great work mate after completing this project everything else will be a piece of Piss 👌 Well.done for jumping in at the deep end !! You will be rewarded big time & gained a ton of knowledge.✌
Some camshaft cap bolts are also stretch bolts, just like the cylinder head bolts, and should really be replaced. Sometimes as with my ZX9r, only some are stretch bolts, this is why it is so important to do a lot of research, use the manufacturers workshop manual, and get advise wherever possible. I trained as a mechanic many years ago, but I still do this on jobs and vehicles I've never done before, and to some extent on jobs where I have done them before, best prepare and double check still. Tbf also not doing them up in the correct sequence, and quarter turn at a time, puts a lot of pressure on some of the camshaft cap bolts, this is why even the camshaft caps can break, and that also means new head as they can not come from another engine due to the way they are made.
Would love to see a Q&A follow up video where you go through the comments, or maybe a livestream replay where all the “experts” can chip in real time 😅. Great channel, subbed for the RS, loving the new direction.
My personal advice for what’s worth is just don’t use torque wrenches for small bolts, pick a small/short wrench (and I mean small) for the anything around 10 Nm as it’s so easy to over torque. I set stages of torque on my wrenches and honestly I never absolutely trust them.
Great vid. Can’t remember if the mileage of the bike was mentioned but generally piston rings shouldn’t needs changing. Took a mate’s low mileage 750m to be jetted and they said I should’ve changed the rings when the head was off? Only pulled the head to replace snapped exhaust bolts (checked all the valves sealed) and as the bike ran sweet honestly though they were full of it
I also wouldn't trust those magnusson torque wrenches. Draper all the way. Also i ran with 2 out of 6 cam cap bolts threaded like that for about a year...just saying
Mate,..if it makes you feel any better, I’ve just cooked the head gasket on my ZX9R, so I’ve also got to pull the engine, strip down, check mating faces and check the valve shims while I’m there. I’m not looking forward to it, as something ALWAYS goes wrong regarding seized or stripped bolts, but watching you persevere makes me feel that spiritually, we’re all connected when we’re cursing in our separate sheds and garages. We all feel the pain and celebrate the win! Keep on keeping on, brother. We’re all behind you…. And your content is really professional now.
to see if u did a good job lapping is ez. once u think ur done u wipe the valve and the seating clean and check if it has even "wear" wich u created by lapping. if so move on to next. atleast thats how we did it with our engines when i was still a mechanic. (2004 ish)
I'm feeling for you ... dont know whether to laugh or cry ... but I'm totally hooked and cant wait for the next episode ... my goodness, that bacon n sausage roll 👌 yum
I am behind you every step of the way and willing you to succeed (As I am sure you will!) Keep up the amazing work mate, the content is absolutely Top Notch!
It’s not all fun and games , you will find as you go on pitfalls just waiting to test you, experience and knowledge after a few years will get you over the problems.
That was intense,,Jesus Christ....I tip my hat to you,your defo getting on with it.well done for not smashing that motor with a sledge hammer..lol.looking forward to the next one that's for sure.
Keep going mate if it was easy everyone would do it, at least you know how a thunderace goes back together with your eyes closed, I’ve got an r1 I purchased with the engine not in the bike and know how many man hours you can spend on projects 👍🏼
Don’t give up on Thunder Race, make it more worth while and rewarding when you finish. All an adventure and learning curve, will all have to start somewhere. Don’t give up, your doing a good job 👊🏽👊🏽👊🏽
Thunder ace was my first bike I’d owned new from the showroom so for nostalgic reasons I’d love to have another but thanks to your pain I’ll leave it in the past and keep it in my memories 😆
Thanks as always for your support! This was a painful upload! If you haven't already please consider subscribing! And help us achieve the 50k sub milestone! Cheers 🙌🏼
I left your channel as it was a painful watch, 40 yrs on the spanner’s tells me it was going to end in disaster which it did…several times, I’ve enough negatively going on in my boring life already . Good luck though and hope you get her singing.
Are your torque wrenches calibrated? Should come with a certificate if so.. looks a huge wrench for 10nm... You will get there buddy 👍
It is pretty chunky! But max it goes to is roughly 23nm from memory and is a 1/4 inch drive. Purchased new from screwfix. Thanks matey!! One day!!
@BikesofRye OK should be OK then 👍
Getting there, just a pointer…when you re-cut all 20 valves the valve clearance will be less and will need redoing 100%.
Thanks for the tip - yes did go around all 20 valves with a feeler gauge and double check. They were all within tolerance
i use a bicycle torque wrench for M6 bolts into aluminium. they only go up to 15nm. much safer
I am really enjoying watching your build and glad you are getting so much help from experienced guys. I can't help but please use this money for your next sausage and bacon sarnie on me, maybe it helps fuel you to the finish line.
That is such a generous gift!! Thank you my friend that means a lot
A tip for the future. If the head is coming off for this sort of work and all the original parts are going back on ( not the gasket obviously ) . Set the engine to tdc on one with everything lined up and mark the cam sprockets and chain with a paint pen. Provided the crank is in the same position for re assembly its a lot easier to get the cam timing right first time.
you should have replaced the valve stem seals
Yes!!!
They were replaced when I previously rebuilt the top end so are still new
sorry I should have remembered. Regarding changing the piston rings, looking at the work you have put in so far I think for a non mechanic you have done extremely well. I would bet replacing the rings would not have been a big issue for you, don't cut yourself short and finish the bike, when you take the first ride you will find its been all worth it,
@@BikesofRye
I was Senior Product Engineer for one of the 3 major European gasket manufacturers before I retired - and my view is that although replacing the CHG (cylinder head gasket) again guarantees 100% safety, in your case it probably wasn't needed as it hadn't been through a heat cycle. Old fibre CHGs definitely crush once (they rely on the crush to densify the fibre material, and embed the bore eyelets into the fibre), but an MLS (multi layer steel) CHG has embossments to focus the clamp load to where it is required. As long as you have a decent quality CHG where the functional (embossed) layers are made of spring steel (rather than some Chinese gaskets with mild steel functional layers!), they should not lose their 'set' on one clamping and unclamping. The heat cycle does affect the coating (probably FPM) and so if the gasket has been taken to full operating temperature, microsealing could be compromised by unclamping and reclamping.
But keep it up - I truly admire your tenacity!!!!
Might be worth checking the calibration of the torque wrench.
Think we you were turning the engine over using the front sprocket. You appeared to be turning the sprocket clockwise. If so this will be turning the crank the "wrong" way, pulling the cam chain against the cam chain tensioner,. This can cause problems and might be why the timing was out.
From memory, recommended way to turn the crank on these. Take the cap off the end of the crank. Screw in a bolt with a nut on it, tighten the nut against the crank to lock the bolt. Then you can use a spanner on the bolt to rotate the crank.
Also, grinding the valves in might well have tightened up the valve clearances. Probably worth checking the clearances again. Also provides a double check against any valves / buckets / shims being mixed up.
Can't wait for someone to spend FIVE HOURS critiquing your efforts at the weekend rather than doing something himself......
Well done on carrying on with it
Five hours slandering, defaming, and throwing out accusations while talking to his subscribers like minions. Not sure about the critiquing bit.
Why dont you address your perceived issues with that "guy?" Ryan.
Make a video, and it might go viral and you may achieve the insta famous that you so desire.
@@josos8711 sorry son, we don't behave like bitter, disrespectful losers on this channel. Do something better with your day.
As you have lapped the valves (twice) your valve clearances will be out and need reshiming
I have double checked them and they are all good 👍🏼
Dont use that adjustable spanner with taps please. Get a tap wrench to ensure even load and it's straight when turning into a hole
And you did say " please " .. 😊
The way you test if your valves are seated correctly. You either put fluid on the face of the valve and use compressed air to blow through the intake track or the exhaust track. If the fluid bubbles you’re not sealed correctly. Or you pour fluid down the intake track or the exhaust track if it leaks through then you have leak. There’s another way too but that involves more tools that usually machine shops have. But simply pouring fluid on the face of the valve and seeing if it leaks through is a flawed way of testing. I’m enjoying your content it’s pretty hilarious 😆
You can save yourself some effort and redo the compression test on your work bench. You only need to put power to the starter motor. 👍
The good news is, the parts guy likes you.
😂😂😂😂😂
For a complete novice dude you’re smashing it! But please don’t be afraid of having longer videos I think 20-30 mins is ideal! So stop feeling like you have to cut them down so short!
Imagine if you were still on the drive
Oh forget that
Good vid as usual. You did remove those valve stem oil sills before you set about grinding those valves in again ? and you fitted new ones afterwards. looked like you left the old ones on. Id be concerned the amount of thread you pulled out head to , that really needs an insert doing, that bolt will probaly pull once it gets hot. Tricky buisness engine building with no formal training or help. Keep going you will get there.
Hate to say this, but as you have ground the valves in, you need to check the valve clearances again. Grinding them in you've removed material from the valve seat so the stem will be higher an close the valve clearances. But I love the project.
Hi mate, Did you recheck the valve clearances? That could have caused your rough running and low compression if you had made a mistake the first time you put the engine back together, worth double checking 👍
OK so I’ve been watching all 14 episodes so far and I’m treating this as a Bible because I recently just picked up a 1997 Yamaha thunder Ace 1000 myself. The previous owner said the motor was blown and I have yet to dive into it other than taking basics apart have not gotten into the engine yet how can I get in touch with you personally if possible to touch base with you for details in the future because honestly the videos and your help are amazing. I just need more. I hope this helps to understand what your videos do for others.
Hi Ryan. Didn't see you checking the valve clearances after lapping in the valves.
Enjoying your videos and wouldn’t mind them being longer, 30-40 minutes?
Appreciate the story every video for new viewers but can you add a timestamp to skip it for those of us watching every episode. Keep up the good work!
Great idea, will look into this
Ah mate that absolutely sucks, I think if you are gonna do vital internal engine torque specs you need to spend top dollar on a torque wrench other wise it might not be accurate
Also it's absolutely vital to get an air compressor to blow out bolt holes to clear anything that might have gone into the holes
If you cut the valve seats or grind them in your going to need to reset the valve clearances
Also torque wrenches need to be calibrated from time to time.
Personally I’ve found Teng to be pretty good but gentle all the way
Dead impressed with how open you are.....rather than a tap and dye i would suggest a helicoil?
As much as I enjoy your videos and I do admire you for having a go, you have proven beyond any shadow of a doubt that unless you really know what your doing then leave well alone or get somebody who really knows what there doing to help you, a good engine builder is a true artist. And if cam cap bolts strip again, get the head helicoiled they are brilliant,, because I had the same thing happens to me on my z1000 rebuild. 👍
There is a good reason why a mechanical apprenticeship takes 3 to 4 years to complete, you need to get some schooling by someone who knows what they are doing.
I wouldn't arse about doing the piston rings, but you absolutely 100% need to redo the valve clearances. You've changed them by lapping (twice)
I did re-check and they all came back in spec
Well done top effort before you put the engine back into the bike test the compression? I agree you probably didn't need to replace the piston rings but could you see the cross hatching on them were they glazed? last thing you could helicoil if you had stripped the thread well done again top effort
Why engines are liken to women...
I was going to argue your comment with 'but women don't have nuts' but then I remembered what year it is.
🤣😂🤣❤️
why are you dressed like you're a cat burglar? you're rebuilding a bike not heisting diamonds...
Body of a Greek God underneath it - you want me to remove my clothes don't you
@@BikesofRye who's responsible for your wardrobe? you or the 'ol lady?
Another little bit, should avoid using extensions with a torque wrench as it can throw the numbers off. also should try and torque in one motion, my method is tighten up normally then final torque with the wrench
Maybe it's worth getting your torque wrench calibrated. Good luck with the build.
I had a YZF_1000, I enjoyed that bike. I am now on an 05 R1, outwardly the engine
looks similar. Maybe you can find a used 04,05,06, and make it fit ?
Don't give up on the thunder arse!
But you’ve learned so much, you’re a head specialist now Ryan ….that don’t sound rite 😂 working on engines can be an emotional rollercoaster 🎢
Your best video so far👍😀👍
Had the top end been vapourblasted? If it had, it really did need going over with a drill and tap as the media will build up in the holes
20k km from new = 12k miles so it’s barely run in ! Remind us why you even took the head off in the first place to lap the valves and break everything given that mileage ? So a wise move not to do the rings . Next please tell us you have you’ve checked the fuel flow to the carbs and start the bike on a simple fuel bottle rig rather than with the tank on this time.
The head came off to repair the exhaust stud, which had a drill bit stuck in it
Loving the content, the editing seems to be getting better too.
Have you thought of doing 5 years engineering training, could help
Are you suggesting that the requirement to rebuild motorcycles, as a hobby, in my spare time. Only requires five years of engineering training? Sign me up!
@@BikesofRye Me Too 😂😂😂
You're risking the life of the victim you give this bike away to if you get it wrong. It's probably worth getting a mechanic to check over your work. It's not a 50cc, like u said. it's a superbike.
@@CIGarage No need! I will be able to check it over, in five years
You can't have the highs without the lows, keep cracking on fella. 👍
I literally cheered when you came back with “good news” after torquing the bolts down 😂 keep up the good work dude you’re killing it!
Good work☕️🏁
We want to see more of your girlfriend.
Is it possible to do a compression test with the engine out of the frame? Jigger up a battery and some leads!
Being honest??? OK here it goes……. Lot of work!!! Learning process!! Just don’t spend 10,000$. To make it run. You needed to read a mechanics manual on HOW TO REBUILD A BIKE ENGINE….. if you did you might think twice about this project. Like I said being honest here. Your not dumb, just don’t know. Knowledge is power.
Pain in the butt but think how much less you had to check how to and torque specs you probably got it all memorised now, hard learning curve then it gets easier, still frustrating moments though 😂.
Do a easier bike next, give yourself a break. Work upto the v4s 😱🤣🤣🤣...
😢Blowtorch to cherryred🔥 for heat cycle, can't remember if needed an this engines and leave exhaust manifold on it to heat the rusty dirty mf studs 😢 take care good luck with your rebuild bro, like watching your channel
Having owned a Thunderace and in fact touring Europe on one in 2005, which only had 24000 on the clock. I would have replaced the piston rings bud and honed the bores. Mine used oil badly due to rings, they are a weak point on that engine. Just saying
Should never reuse bolt's like this because they all stressed & overstretched. I've always use brand spanking new for anything internal, but it's doable with Old
Really admire what you’re doing, just one piece of advice though, get yourself a tap wrench. It’s so important when tapping a hole that the tap is going in straight and square, something that can never be achieved using an adjustable wrench or even a normal wrench/spanner.
I still think not replacing the piston rings and getting the bores honed is false economy,yes it's only done 20.000 miles but the bores were corroded quite badly from standing for years and a good "seal" is crucial to good compression.
please open the throttle when doing compression check, you have based low compression on a flawed test, dont mean to sound rude lol also bro WD40 is good lube for tapping aluminium :)
Valve clearances will need doing again and after a few heat cycles expect that cap bolt to pull out, also turned a r reg bike to a n reg bike by replacing the frame, half the engine is no longer the same.
That bike is no longer the one you started with and has no emotional attachment apart from 25% of original parts I would call it a day and walk away it’s only now being rebuilt for views.
The joys of working on old bikes, have a 1994 fireblade, I do try to get OEM parts as they just fit better.
Great vid Buddy . I would have did the rings tho when you had it out. Still . Hopefully when you reinstall the engine it will start with no issues . Fingers crossed for you . Keep the faith 🙂
Valves probably didn't need grinding. Head gaskets are a one shot use only. Always run a tap down the threads when rebuilding engines .this will stop bolts breaking and screwing the ends off. Just some rebuild tips for you I bet there's nothing wrong with the piston rings.
Wow outstanding job sir. I feel your pain. But your resilience will pay off. Great video.
Your bottom end is growling, as a consequence from removing the surface rust from the bores after leaving the engine outside. You did not clean out all the grit and now your bottom end is toast. Yes, your valves and gasket are leaking, but it’s the knocking that you need to address
The (video) ‘tension’ 8, 9, 10 Nm! I was on the edge of my seat.
and i would have stopped at 9 nm!
This was a very good video. Usually, I don’t so apologies for giving advice. A small high-end torque wrench for low torque applications is a must, and at least a low-end compressor, but making sure to put good quality filters to keep the water out of whatever you’re blasting with air. I’m sure you’ve already considered all of the above. Just trying to help. OK keep up the great work, Rye👏
Future Mat Armstrong in bike world 👌👌👌
I gotta be honest, i would left the top end alone to start with , at those miles it probably wouldn't of needed any attention, from memory the first valve inspection isnt until 25 thou , i could be wrong
Piston rings. The barrels were full of crap mate. The rings are knackered.
Keep going Ryan 👍
someone is definately deleting comments!
Which one sunshine?
I’m dead proud of you mate. I know how things can go tits up. Great vid.
Just a point did you check the valves are straight by putting them in a drill and spinning them
hey man keep going man you are doing good im learning so much form you and looking forward to the end of it riding down the road
+1 buy M6 thread repair kit for a tenner. I've already gone through one set of inserts and bought more 🤣
Keep going! Your videos and honesty are top quality!
🏍👍
Should do rings while you’re there, easy as..
We've all been there, and will be there again, some time in the future. Great video's and a real reflection of how most of us 'fumble' through our repairs and restoratios. Don't give up - He who perseveres, never stops learning!
Carry on you are doing fine the only way to learn is to do it
Did you install new Valve seals before you put the springs and keepers on?
They were new on the previous top end rebuild
Didn’t you find that the petrol just evaporated?
Yes I left it for over half an hour and I could tell it was evaporating in that short time, but not leaking through the seals
to all the negative comments about the builder. No one learns by getting things right the first time.
I am a toolroom machinist by trade and not an expert on motorcycle's. That did not stop me from building a Harris framed GPZ. I had a big bore block installed and assembled the whole engine. I also messed up the valve timing first go and bent a valve when turning the engine by hand. It did not stop me from carrying on. I ended up with one monster bike. I also converted a 1973 Kawasaki H2 triple to case reed induction. I was told by a well know Kawasaki expert it would never work. It ended up going from the standard 72bhp to 130 rear wheel HP and is now a very sort after motorcycle. Never let anybody stop you having a go.
I'd of done the rings... Loads easier than the works you've already achieved... Maybe just me but whilst stripped down that far might save revisiting 😐 keep up.the great work mate after completing this project everything else will be a piece of Piss 👌
Well.done for jumping in at the deep end !! You will be rewarded big time & gained a ton of knowledge.✌
Some camshaft cap bolts are also stretch bolts, just like the cylinder head bolts, and should really be replaced. Sometimes as with my ZX9r, only some are stretch bolts, this is why it is so important to do a lot of research, use the manufacturers workshop manual, and get advise wherever possible. I trained as a mechanic many years ago, but I still do this on jobs and vehicles I've never done before, and to some extent on jobs where I have done them before, best prepare and double check still.
Tbf also not doing them up in the correct sequence, and quarter turn at a time, puts a lot of pressure on some of the camshaft cap bolts, this is why even the camshaft caps can break, and that also means new head as they can not come from another engine due to the way they are made.
Would love to see a Q&A follow up video where you go through the comments, or maybe a livestream replay where all the “experts” can chip in real time 😅.
Great channel, subbed for the RS, loving the new direction.
My personal advice for what’s worth is just don’t use torque wrenches for small bolts, pick a small/short wrench (and I mean small) for the anything around 10 Nm as it’s so easy to over torque.
I set stages of torque on my wrenches and honestly I never absolutely trust them.
Great vid.
Can’t remember if the mileage of the bike was mentioned but generally piston rings shouldn’t needs changing. Took a mate’s low mileage 750m to be jetted and they said I should’ve changed the rings when the head was off?
Only pulled the head to replace snapped exhaust bolts (checked all the valves sealed) and as the bike ran sweet honestly though they were full of it
Yea boi, go on Rye my son!!!
I also wouldn't trust those magnusson torque wrenches. Draper all the way. Also i ran with 2 out of 6 cam cap bolts threaded like that for about a year...just saying
Mate,..if it makes you feel any better, I’ve just cooked the head gasket on my ZX9R, so I’ve also got to pull the engine, strip down, check mating faces and check the valve shims while I’m there. I’m not looking forward to it, as something ALWAYS goes wrong regarding seized or stripped bolts, but watching you persevere makes me feel that spiritually, we’re all connected when we’re cursing in our separate sheds and garages. We all feel the pain and celebrate the win! Keep on keeping on, brother. We’re all behind you…. And your content is really professional now.
to see if u did a good job lapping is ez. once u think ur done u wipe the valve and the seating clean and check if it has even "wear" wich u created by lapping. if so move on to next. atleast thats how we did it with our engines when i was still a mechanic. (2004 ish)
I'm feeling for you ... dont know whether to laugh or cry ... but I'm totally hooked and cant wait for the next episode ... my goodness, that bacon n sausage roll 👌 yum
I am behind you every step of the way and willing you to succeed (As I am sure you will!) Keep up the amazing work mate, the content is absolutely Top Notch!
It’s not all fun and games , you will find as you go on pitfalls just waiting to test you, experience and knowledge after a few years will get you over the problems.
That was intense,,Jesus Christ....I tip my hat to you,your defo getting on with it.well done for not smashing that motor with a sledge hammer..lol.looking forward to the next one that's for sure.
Keep going mate if it was easy everyone would do it, at least you know how a thunderace goes back together with your eyes closed, I’ve got an r1 I purchased with the engine not in the bike and know how many man hours you can spend on projects 👍🏼
Good on yer. Tip - Grease your tap first - it helps to prevent aluminium from 'tearing' and picks up the swarf.
Let's hope after all that hard work, the motorcycle gods are watching over you. Good luck 😎👍🏍
Don’t give up on Thunder Race, make it more worth while and rewarding when you finish. All an adventure and learning curve, will all have to start somewhere. Don’t give up, your doing a good job 👊🏽👊🏽👊🏽
Thunder ace was my first bike I’d owned new from the showroom so for nostalgic reasons I’d love to have another but thanks to your pain I’ll leave it in the past and keep it in my memories 😆