REBUILDING A YAMAHA YZF1000R THUNDERACE | PT 11
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- This #yamaha #thunderace project bike rebuild has taken me the best part of 6 months to strip down and rebuild. The last time this bike was ran was over 20 years ago so in this upload I am really excited to share our very first attempt to start this 1998 model Yamaha Thunderace!
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Will this bike be In the patron giveaway... I do love a T'ace..
Loving the vids and this going saga.. btw.. and how you keep it all in good and bad
I’d recommend soldering the wire you ‘repaired’. You can get slip over electrical solder joints that just need a heat gun to melt the solder; really easy to use.
Definately....first and foremost solder it....then use heatshrink, and then after that amalgamating tape....stretch it while you wrap it round and it then turns to solid rubber....what youve done...without fail the weather will get into that, the tape will fall off and corrosion will get to the twisted wires...probably when your out...with no tools..
Oh yeah...remove that alarm....! useless!
Came here to say the exact same thing. Vibration will undo that and the bikes fan won’t work and overheat
Yes solder - 100% Although I have never actually used the 'slip over & heat gun' connectors, personally I would not trust them because the wire will not be heated, so the solder won't flow into the individual wire strands - which is the basis of a good, conductive, strong joint. I believe that the slip over connectors will by definition give a 'dry joint' which will be high resistance and prone to breaking down due to corrosion, as the solder is only acting more like a glue - and not a good one at that.
Please please don’t join wires by twisting them together and wrapping with tape. Use an inline crimp or preferably solder and heat shrink.
I think you need to invest in a fire extinguisher or two...
Not one other person mentioned that! Add a soldering iron and heat shrink to the list!
When the clutch push rod fellout makes sure you still have the small ball bearing that goes in front of it or the clutch won't engage. Loving the build
Will check thanks for sharing!
When in doubt, read the manual again.
I don't believe that the Thunder Ace has a ball bearing on the clutch rod
Yes it does
@@waynejackson-r7q Yep I agree, it does, also the rod had a convex and concave end the ball bearing goes in first then the concave end of the rod goes in
The coolant you're using is ready mixed, ie to be used neat. It's the concentrated stuff that needs diluting.
Love your videos. Huge congrats for starting the engine and good luck with the oil leak- sounds like you're on the right track. Just this, be careful when using random plastic bottles for petrol. (Electrostatic, spark, bang! In that order.)
Deepest respect for you. To get the thing even started for a brief period is a great achievement. You can be proud !
Also, your video editing skills are also improving quite a lot 😁
Thank you so much! It's reassuring to hear
Love the sarcastic hints towards the plonker who just videos dissing what everyone does incorrectly, how boring must his life be but also perfect(yet being a human we aint perfect 😂🤦)Keep up the good work 👍
Just finished my thunderace couple of small jobs left but I did the exact same thing you need clutch rod with sprocket cover on all bolted up. I ruined my rug making that same mistake lol glad I'm not only one to do this. Great effort with engine sounded sweet. Love the channel.
Did you just push the rod back into place or did you need to remove the clutch and re-install?
You can just push rod back in then install sprocket cover and slave that will sort the issue. @BikesofRye
Don't worry about the clutch pushrod firing itself out of the engine, the engine actually running is a HUGE WIN 👍😎. Onwards and upwards now.
Carefull with using certain words and phrases or a certain armchair expert will be spending several hours critiquing your use of them.
You might find the petrol tap is turned on and off by a vacuum pipe. If not connected the tap will not switch to 'on' when the engine is cranked.
Well done, I have a fzr1000r exup and can say they are a pig to start when they have been left for a while. Great video by the way
Thanks 👍
you can get sleeves of clear heat shrink tubing with a solder connection in the middle. Any auto electrician worth his qualifications would advise against them in favour of a proper solder joint but even those pos things would be better than twisting wires and wrapping them in electrical tape!
Well done mate as i have said before you learn by your mistakes hope it goes well can’t wait to see what happens next 👍❤️
You and me both!
Just Class watching 😮
Subscribed 😀👍🏻👍🏻
Great video yet again ,keep going you will get there
Thanks 👍
You’re a brave man, braver than me fella! When you think about exactly how much you’ve done and all only with the help of a manual it’s a great achievement. You should be really proud. Off to watch the next instalment 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼🍺🍺🍺👍👍👍
Good progress, you're getting close to a test ride now. Ref fuel flow, did you connect the vacuum line to the petcock? (Have to say I don't know the Thunderace myself but a lot carb'd bikes from that era had a vacuum operated petcock) Good luck and cheers
Always thought it strange that some Yamahas have an oil level warning light and not an oil pressure warning light. There’s something very reassuring about seeing an oil pressure warning light go out. Sounded nice when it fired 😉 Good luck with it
Indeed, Always good( reassuring) to see the oil light extinguish.
That weren’t to bad.. was expecting worse . Well done ,look forward to it running ,
Just my tuppence worth but its a bad idea having an open ended bottle of fuel, its the vapour that ignites so if you're using a bottle instead of the fuel tank you want a proper one. A lot of old bikes have a vacuum operated fuel tap where even if the tap is the 'on' position no fuel will come out until there's vacuum from the engine turning, its normally a small diameter hose going from one of the carbs to the back of the fuel tap. To bypass this the tap often has a prime or 'pri' position so you can fill the carbs up after a rebuild.
The thing causing you trouble was the starter solenoid btw, thats what you hear clicking if the battery is a bit flat, it's just a electromagnetic switch for the starter motor and we'll done for sussing out that's why it wouldn't turn over.
My own opinion on the colour of older bikes is factory standard colours are best as I think when they're rare as thunderaces are now, they should be kept standard, im sure it'll look nice with the black frame and copper paint but I reckon you'd get more for it when you sell it if it looked stock.
The main thing is you seem to be enjoying yourself so keep it up.
As always good video ❤
just an fyi the 3Litres of oil is without changing the oil filter, they usually take 200ml - 600ml more than what the block says
OK thanks will give it a little top up, certsinly as now that it lost a little all over my motorcycle ramp
What this guy said👍 3 oil volumes to know..oil only, oil and filter, full engine rebuild
It would be better to make up a temporary tank, or repurpose a lawnmower tank or similar than to use an open, cut off, bottle. Safety Third!
love the videos mate keep it up! just a word on silicates in coolant as honda recommend no silicates as they can be harsh on aluminium parts. Also check your fuses with multimeter on ohms setting, and soldering is pretty easy to learn and fun to do lol
Stay positive, mate. The engine is running. There are no bad noises. You know the cause of the oil leak. It's all good! There's always going to be some snags, so don't kick yourself too hard. Many's the project I've done where bits go missing. They usually turn up once you've got the replacements!
It is bugging me as to where the part is... it is one of those where I knew to keep it safe
@@BikesofRye ...and it still is safe!
Hmm man you have courage which many don't have. I sure don't. Too much stress.
good luck
Ill be the grammer nazi here. Its nothing and not nothink. Pet peeve of mine. Good work
I'm about to try doing the same thing I just got a 97
Wa hay shes running 🤙
Did you get that sinking feeling when you see the oil??
just subscried 👍
Thank you mate 👍🏼 😎
Yo I think there should be a ball bearing at the end of that rod mate
it runs!! well done. Based on others comments once you have that clutch push rod sorted you're home dry....well nearly. look forward to next installment.
Here is hoping 🙏🏼 ☺
Sounded OK, get the rid bit fixed. Sorted!
And the water should be distilled.
loving the journey
Oil is very dark looking?
Do you know what the black connector was for? Where do you get your fault finding methods from. I am never so lucky. Where do you get your base knowledge from?
That's the rear brake switch.... and haven't you realised yet I rebuild bikes with hopes and dreams 😅
Would like to win this one!
Great stuff... Really enjoying this build 👌
Glad you enjoy it!
As an ACE owner I am enjoying all of your videos on this bike. It give me a good look at all of the bike without taking mine apart. Any chance you could list some of the equipment that you use i.e. the item you use to test that the battery was full. Cant wait fo the next vid.
That was a motorcycle battery charger I got from eBay
I am enjoying this series way too much
You're doing well mate. Don't be disheartened by negative comments, everyone is an expert, but there's a lot to know with work like this. You'll make mistakes, but you learn from them. These are awesome bikes, I had one and loved it 👍
Live and learn..at least it sounded sweet once you started it..nice one.
It sounded OK didn't it.... I was expecting it to be lumpy
Well done keep going that engine ran . You will sort it .
We shall see
Please repair that earth wire to the radiator properly . Crimp connector (proper non insulated one, then with heat shrink over it), solder or solder butt connector.
For fuel, flick the kill switch off and on to trigger the fuel pump until it slows and stops. It only pumps when required, so flicking the kill switch on and off until the pump stops means the carbs are full.
Very well done, I'm sure everything is going to be fine. Glad you double checked the service manual to ensure correct anti-freeze type. 👍
Colour looks great 👍
I think so too!
I would recomend covering the radiator thermostat plug with silicon to stop it corroding. Speaking from experience. Totally enjoying this series
Emotional highs to lows of doing a build...😂 and the best ending and thank F*** I missed something and it wasn't a destroyed motor.❤ it.
As the fellas mentioned in the comments. Please use solder on that wire you repaired. Looks like it's a coolant temp sensor so it's quite critical for the bike! Can't wait to see what you do with the bike!
Your amazing video sent my heart racing with my fingers crossed when you first hit that start button… Total flash back!!! I know how you felt as last week I went through the same ‘moments of tension’ when starting my 1997 Blade for the first time… Mine didn’t spit out any metal spears or other metal based shrapnel luckily 😅
Glad you found the problem…
P.s I started my project after following your channel so when it goes wrong I’m telling the wife it’s your fault 😁🤟🏻
Well done on your persistence
Nice one pal I've got a 99 ace myself don't worry about the clutch rod and any damage to the engine they're pretty bullet proof looking forward to the next video 👍
Well done Ry great to see it running! Fantastic achievement.
I love the fact you don't edit out your hiccups and trials and tribulations, enabling others to learn too. You always hold your hands up and say 'Yep! My bad!' When you've dropped a clanger..
But, those clangers are getting very few and far between now bud so again.. Well done, thanks for another great instalment and keep em coming 👍👍👍👌👌👌
The control box thingy is the starter relay 👍. I'd recommend soldering the wire you twisted together, and a bit of heat shrink. If not, use some spade connectors or similar to make a decent connection - peace of mind.
Great job though considering you're a self confessed novice! Keep up the good work and videos.
clutchs are wet clutchs on motorbikes. im assuming because your slave is missing pressure has forced it out and also the oil.
Nice one. Entertaining to watch and fair play to you. Hopefully no lasting damage.
Nice work there Rye, was concerned about the open bottle of fuel. The engine sounded sweet for the few seconds of it running. Hopefully, you haven't lost the ball bearing. Keep up the great content. I'm looking forward to the next one.
1st.
Loving the rebuild series btw.
King 🤴
@@BikesofRye Im in Australia on a night shift. This series has been killing my boredom.
Well done that man.
The fact that it ran is a huge testiment to the effort you've put into this mate. A minor setback. Get that master cylinder in place and it'll be running swwet I reckon! Awesome job once again, you've come such a long way since rebuilding that Blackbird on your drive and you also inspired me to delve deeper into my own bikes! I never thought I had the skills to service a carburettor but since watching your channel I've become more of a 'have a go' mechanic and saved hundreds in garage fees! Cheers mate
You've come a long way its been great to watch. Hope after the clutch is sorted its sealed up nice and it runs without pissing itself :)
A very valiant effort to get the bike started. Remember you also need a front sprocket cover too! Look forward to the next video. Keep going you will definitely get it back on the road.👍
Trials and tribulations that’s what we’re here for. It’s all about the delayed gratification lol. Keep at it Rye, can’t wait for the next episode👏
Well that was an event, I was nervous for just watching. Once you get the clutch slave cylinder and actuation rod installed, all should be OK. Looking forward to part 12. Have a good week and catch your next video. 😊
On the bright side for it to fire out the clutch push rod it means that there is plenty of oil pressure
Trial and ever mr rye,
It’s all good and well worth watching 👍🏼
Finger crossed ..for next time it did sound good.
big progress . cant wait to see the next video . was super cool to see how excited you was when it first ticked over before fuel . keep them coming my dude
I see you're a professional lol it's all a learning curve & you're nearly there with it now, I'm sure the engine will be fine although I'd probably check the clutch end first before trying it out just to make sure bearings etc are in situ.
got my fingers crossed for you that's all it is, seeing that oil, my heart sank!
Where is the CR125
In a lot of bits 😅
The engine sounded fine. On the home straight 👍🏻
Be interesting to know where the 250ml of fuel went, that’s 1/4 litre, would the fuel pump plus the carbs take that much?
Who knows? It seemed to drink a lot of fuel before starting though.
Hi Ryan, I've sent you a message on FaceBook. Cheers
Have you checked in the car?When you put the engine and ancillaries in the car boot, did you do the same with the sprocket cover/slave cyl? You took them off as one piece.
Ah thanks!! Yeah let me check that very obvious location that I should have checked, could have checked, but haven't checked
🏍👍
Mistake keeps US learn and get better results
its a ymaha.. it should be entirely blue
Its started 👍🏼 learning is progressing. Sure it'll be all good buddy 🤞🏼
We shall find out in the next upload 🤞🏼 😅
Watching your entire build is like watching my last 20 years of mistakes and victories. Last push nearly there. Before you make another one of.my mistakes be so careful of air lock in the coolant. I would take the bike off the stand and rock the side to side squeese all the hoses and repeat the side to side keep a very close eye on the level as it can quickly suck up the resevoir excess.
Yeah will keep an eye on the temp levels when I get it running. I guess it would be a good idea to run the bike up to temp once it's started
@@BikesofRye It will smell funny the first time you get some temp up. You've had all sorts of cleaners, fluids and paints. I swear if you're not sweating bullets for the first 5 minutes I will be. Can't wait to see the first ride video and lets be honest you've got us all hooked now so better start thinking about the next project 🤣
She sounds sweet for the time she did run! Cant wait to see it back on road
For the short time it ran, it seemed to not making any alarming noises did it. Its positive
Its only minor bud. take the massive win .IT RAN !!!! give ur self a pat on the bk brilliant victory and great video
Thanks mate!!
Nice work, just keep plodding along with it. The clutch push rod coming out is a known thing amongst Ace owners ( i own two )............ its very tempting to start the engine when all the panels are off etc, so dont worry about it. The earlier comment about the ball bearing on the end of the clutch push rod is correct, there should be a bearing on the end of it............... would be quite obvious if this has come out also. Also. you DONT need the clock surround on the bike to start it..... so that can just be left on a bench while you get it all working before putting the all of the panels back on. Any other hints and tips needed give me a shout............
I don't recall a bearing when removing the clutch slave cyclinder, and I left this rod in situ. It would be pretty obvious to me that a bearing was on the floor too when this rod came out? Is it not on the opposite end on the clutch side?
@@BikesofRyeWhen in doubt, read the manual.
@@bananabrooks3836 nope not good enough. Going to fly over to Japan and ask Yamaha about it
It is just one little steel ball behind the rod.@@BikesofRye
It sits on the far end of the clutch push rod…. But can get pushed out with the oil if the rod goes out
Sure the clutch cylinder is still not attached to the sprocket cover??
I've lost the sprocket cover.... with the clutch slave attached 🤣
Its looking nice.
I have to agree with you, there is something strangely attractive about a 22 stone woman.
All the best Andy
Hey Ryan, Can you reassure me that my shim calculator is ok cos ive used it numerous times when rebuilding engines, just that you mentionef the shims were wrong 😮😮😮
Hey mate it was my measurements...when I went around the bike the second time I discovered the tolerance was still out. I still need to get the bike running yet though 😱😅 also I have the top end of the engine packaged up it will be sent to you mate haven't forgot👍🏼
Semi thinsetic
Semi synfetic
Love the channel mate, keep at it,
Hope you get it sorted with the clutch cylinder/cover 🤞👍
I hope so too