REBUILDING A YAMAHA YZF1000R THUNDERACE | PART 13
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- Опубликовано: 3 фев 2024
- In the previous upload this #yamaha #yzf1000r #thunderace that I have been rebuilding on my channel failed to start. After many attempts to try and fire this bike into life I was all out of luck. So in this upload we will look into the possible cause as to why this yamaha thunderace is refusing to start and figure out what we can do to fix it.
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Also when compression test the Engine needs to be fully hot when doing compression test to allow piston + cylinder + rings to fully expand ALso needs to be throttle open. And you can add small amount of oil in cylinder, if higher compression then piston rings going. If same compression and it low then valves. Check the manual it should mention this test. If you have air compressor you can use your cylinder test to add air to cylinder and check for leak. Called leak down test many videos on youtube
Nice one love to see the engine out again, Im sure that missing gasket was likely the issue coolant getting in oil. I am sure piston rings are fine no need to replace but if you do make sure its OEM! Getting tense now just wanting her to start 🤪
Your coolant looked normal , I don't think you got it running enough for the gasket to fail. on the last video when you were trying to start it the engine didn't sound good . not sure what the problem is best of luck trying to solve it .
It's 2024...let's leave the techno baby rattle background noise in the past and move on.
Yeah good analogy it sounded like Luke Slater mixing a track @@garnet4846
A little tip for you for testing the valves seating ability, sit the head up so the valves are pointing towards you and fill the ports with petrol, it is a lot easier to see fuel weeping past the valves rather that trying to see if a little puddle has gone down.
Once you finish I hope you ride it for several years, you'll have a special bond with it, one worth savouring.
you've got to do the compression test at full throttle.
Good point! Does he ever read the manual?
Also makes a huge difference if you compression test wet or dry, some manufactures want you to put oil down the cylinder and then compression test.
Tried both, made roughly 10psi difference
@@BikesofRye But did you test with the throttle pulled wide open? It makes a difference.
@@H-M-78 all guess work
Just remember, ‘The man who never made any mistakes, never did anything’.
You’ll fix it and learn along the way 👍
👏🏼
You’re smashing it mate. Thank you for being honest and showing the whole process not a sugar coated edited version. Also love the sly nods to the hater 😂 it seems like he must have never made a mistake in his whole career or something 😂 channel is growing like mad. People appreciate seeing somebody battling through the struggle 👍🏻
love the text message comedy 🤣 .... always best when things are taken with a good sense of humour 😉
Regarding the fault report from the tachometer display: 3000 rpm is for the TPS (throttle position sensor), 7000 rpm is the EXUP and 8000 rpm is the fuel level indicator. As it works by displaying 0 rpm for 3 secs followed by the fault rpm for 2.5 secs and then the actual rpm for 3 secs I'm assuming the engine should be running to get these read outs. As yours isn't running it's likely a spurious reading and can be ignored until you get the engine running. This info is from an original Yamaha Thunderace owners manual I was lucky enough to find. Your persistence is amazing. Doing great!!
Didn't the new exhaust leave out the Exup? Might be why it's showing the fault report. A mate put an aftermarket exhaust on his Gixxer 1000 which showed a fault code because some sensor was missing on that system. I could be totally wrong but it's just a thought.
Hey man, I appreciate your honesty, openness, and willingness to put yourself out there. We're all seeing you learn as you go, and most of us did the same (learn as you go). I had the benefit of having a dad who included me on a lot of his projects, then stepped into drag racing, etc. I'm not going to rehash the other comments here. One bit of advice I'll give you is to slow down, even more, and read, re-read, and read some more. I am sure you are, but trust me. It's far easier to think thru a problem, then do a sanity check with others before you go tearing things apart again.
That said, you're here! I agree with your final statements. If you've come this far, may as well go full on rebuild and get it all done at once. Just remember, there is NOTHING wrong with taking it slow, asking for help, and moving forward at a pace that doesn't freak you out.
I have to take my hat off too you. You're positivity, enthuasism and determination to see this through is inspiring. Well done.
Dude compression tests are done with the throttle wide open. Crank several times until it doesn't raise any more. That said, looking at your coolant, i think that you are barking up the wrong tree. Hope that i am wrong.
Fair play for diving into that engine and rebuilding it mate.
I had a YZF 750 R and currently have an R1. Your tacho fault indication will almost certainly be because the fuel plug is not connected, or the exup valve or cables are stuck. They all do it when the tank is off and that plug is undone. Good luck👍
Sick at it, your doing a great job, it's nice to see when people mess things up and have the guts to share it on video.
Keep at it 👍
Don't give up keep going. So what if its not all working out perfect. Don't be put down and you are learning so much. We all start with no experience regardless of what so may tell you.
Look Rye, of course I want you to rebuild this engine and have it working just perfect, but honestly, that’s not usually how life goes all the time. Plus your trials and tribulations makes for great content! Speaking of content, you’re editing and as well as your presentation is entertaining and quite good. Thanks for your hard work. Loving this channel👏
I do genuinely enjoy the content you put out and the skills you gain as you tackle every curve ball the the bike throws at you
The amount of patience you've got is amazing.
Keep going. It'll all fall into place soon.
By the way, I'd of thought F**k it, I'll weigh it in. 😂
As far as I know if you put new piston rings in you should rehome the barrel so that they re-fit to the barrels😊
Keep up the work mate, loving the series so far and looking forward to the next one!
Well done for not giving up but while I get what you're doing a knowledgeable mate,even if only there to advise when asked or stop you doing "unwise" stuff would be better for a first rebuild. I rebuilt my first bike motor at 17,I was an apprentice mechanic and had a fellow apprentice helping me. When you're new to something 2 heads are better than 1,not least with complex machinery, quite easy to end up with a trashed motor.
I couldn't have been paying attention earlier in the build...I assumed you had fitted new piston rings lol oh well doing it now...makes sense. Keep going😊
Great fun, can't wait to see it up and running. 👍❤️🇬🇧
Keep at it pal. Its the only way to learn. I'm learning from "YOUR" mistakes.😂🤣😂🤣THANKYOU. 👍👍👍
This is quite funny, you tackle this with all the inevitable hiccups with great humour. Carry on, you're learning good.
Never skip a leg day.
Love it
Great job sir. You have done the right thing. Outstanding.
Just enjoyed a cuppa and a catch up with my brother watching your latest updates. Keep up the good work. Never a dull moment, you will get there eventually.😊
Once this build is done you should definitely keep this bike and ride the wheels off it for a few years at the very least . Thunder Aces are real rippers. Love your videos mate!
Can’t wait to see the next one I’m sure it’ll be 100% when finished but you got to make a few cockups that’s how you learn 👍❤️
Love ur enthusiasm and determination, fair play to ye m8 👍
I'm enjoying every episode and give You big cred for taking on these challenges! Carry on mate! Chers from another proffessional mechanic... 🙂
Its like watching the Mr Bean of motorcycle mechanics, keep it up its so funny.
Seems like a right headache this one 😅
FYI you need to complete a compression tester with the throttle bodies wide open or if there removed it will do the same job as with them on idle opening you won’t pull enough air into the cylinders to get the correct reading, I would also recommend a decent compression tester as the cheap eBay ones can fluctuate massively (laser do a half decent one 👍)
Best option though is leak down tester for future reference, can be used to check valve seating, piston rings and head gaskets without even removing the engine 😬
That bike has sat for some years without turning over, so yes the piston rings will be lacking lubrication and will not be fully sealing hence the lower than expected compression, but for a short time that engine ran. That meant it had a fuel source, a spark and enough compression all at the same time, now it doesn’t run you are saying there is oil mixing in water in the radiator but failed to show it, you drained the coolant and it is looking clean, there is also no signs of oil water mix in the neck of the rad when you removed it that is also clean, sorry but I think I’m beginning to smell fishy pork pies here.
Loving the video series makes for great viewing whatever the outcome 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Your doing good mate please keep it up don't give up you got this
great job mate i have the same bike you'll love it when its all sorted
Can't wait!
never give up dude
Real life struggles. You’ll be happy in the end. Can’t wait to see it completed.
And dont use water to check the seal. Use petrol.
you got this!
Another fantastic video bud
You've maybe gave yourself a lot more work as others say compression check should be done at full throttle,but at least you will learn more about the mechanical things which is no bad thing,but NEVER give up hope keep plugging away and keep up the projects good videos and good attitude.
If you have compressed air you can blow up the inlet and exhaust. Any bubbles from around the valves and they're not sealing. If you do the rings the bores will need a light hone. Fail to do so and it'll be a smoker in short order. Biggest issue with doing the rings is getting the cylinder block back on. An extra pair of hands makes it a bit easier.
Really wanna kno the whole story behind "I'm a professional m8"
Do tell.
Looking forward to the dirtbike videos 🛠
rome wasnt built in a day, keep at it pal
You will get it sorted mate
If you are going to pop the pistons out why not have a shop overbore the cyclinders? Even go a bit bananas and skim the head and tickle the ports with some files. You will be amazed at how bad the casting is in most "off the shelf" engines. A guy called David Vizard who was (and I hope to this day) is an absolute legend wrote a few books on tuning. I did tons of engine tuning on the drive with David Vizards books.
At least pulling the engine out the second time should be easier as you've already done it once and none of the bolts will seize or snap! Loving this series mate, great stuff.
See MarkPearce post I have a rev counter doing the same thing when running is associated with the exup valve on my 05 FZS1000s. It is a crude way of telling you something is either amiss or non-standard with the valve or its cables. As I bought the bike with a micron can fitted I am assuming the valve is throwing its dummy out because of that. When I get round to it I will refit the original which came with bike and see if it stops waving at me.
shame it had to come apart again. but we learn from are mistakes. you are braver than me. 🙏
I believe in you,,come on,let's get this done.
Well love the the glamorous assistant top effort on her part a good dal better looking joking aside love the video thank you. I would have used petrol to see if the valves are leaking and one other point if you are going to replace the rings don't forget to honing the bores not teaching to such eggs love the new workshop thanks again
Thanks for the tips will look into it
Fight the good fight. 👍🏻
Always interesting to watch
Keep up the good work and dont Get disheartened
Also if you decide you want an impact gun dont buy the 155 foot pound one its useless
Hmm.. A couple of things to consider here. I think its more usual to find coolant in oil that vice versa. I'd drop teh oil too..
Someone elese mentioned irregular compression readings. Head gasket issue are more likely to show up with one or two low readings not so much even low measurements across all four. While you have the head off I'd take to be checked for surface 'flatness' in case your previous handling (undoing out of equence) has caused some warp. I think it's not that likely but easy to check now before you ruin another head gasket.
You're learning loads, many of us have had to remove an engine again to put something right, so no self righteousness coming from me !
good video Wonka.
Dont give up
love your determination, if it goes tit's up , think of all the kit you have . i'm going to subscribe cus i think you are great
They did make a big bore kit for the ace at some time. Tjat was an idea for you. Sorry to plant that in your head. 😂.
Hope you get the engine sorted.
It did run before the clutchrod went flying
Fuggin ell........glass half full ...good practice for you on the poss 🥸
I has one mate. The rings in the Thundersley are not good, they are known for burning oil, mine did. The head gasket is defo your first issue, a hone and new set of rings will make it pucker.
Check your compression tester.
Not uncommon that the one way valve is at the gauge end of the pipe. Hence in effect the volume of the pipe is added to the combustion chamber volume. This can dramatically affect the reading on bikes with comparatively small cylinder capacities. Possibly enough to give the low compression reading you had.
As an ex-mechanic I cringed when you just scrubbed the rust off of the bores . Ideally,not least on a bike that has been standing for so long you'd have at least gone for honing and new rings.
I'm not trying to be critical but as others have said read the relevant parts of the manual properly before you do anything ,it'll save you a lot of time and grief in the long run.
That coolant looked fine,did you get the rad flushed properly ?
Good on yeh if you can do it yourself, I love my bikes I've got 3 yamaha 20 valve mototors on the go to sort out one of them being an ace 👍
Hi did you do the compression test with the throttle held wide open
Hi buddy those compression figures you gave roughly about 190 psi. is kind of unheard of in a cold bike. The main thing that a compression test is going to tell you is if every cylinder is making the same compression and there aren’t any large discrepancies. And if you replace the piston rings and then did a compression with freshly honed bores. Your figures are probably going to read less because the rings haven’t bedded in.
bro you have to have the throttle wide open when you test compression, it will be MUCH higher when you do it correctly, ask me how I know ! love your channel mate
Compression tester won’t tell you if oil ways to head arnt sealed.
Cam timing or valve clearance incorrect and losing compression through not fully seated valves?
If you want to stop the rev counter messing around while your tank is off, bridge the two terminals on the green plug for the fuel senser with a piece of wire, this will put the fuel light on, but it will give you chance to see what your revs are 👍
I've just checked the paperwork I have it's says:-
3,000 RPM = Throttle posture sensor fault
7,000 RPM = EXUP valve fault
8,000 RPM = Fuel level sensor fault
That bike is shaping up to be a beauty, and you're learning all the time, thanks to your lady and keep going it'll be worth it.
Throttle position sensor may need adjustment with the rev thing going on .
Brilliant Rye keep up the great work 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks 👍
🏍👍
You might have been better to do a leak down test first but only way to learn is by trying good luck with it
Did u hold throttle wide open when doing compression check ?
Just a suggestion here....maybe the first time...take it to someone that knows how to, watch, learn, take in the knowledge from someone whoose done it a million times and then maybe, on the next one - tackle it yourself as it could get very expensive...theres nothing more demoralizing that having to do something again..! the way i tackle rebuilds... 1. strip right down totally (take the engine as one part at this point) - work from the frame upwards, cleaning and recoating. At the same time, take the motor to someone who knows how to... now ive finished watching....and the motor is back out...pull the rest of it apart...right down to its component parts...get the wheels powder coated, get any other parts cerakoated, its expensive but itll make the bike impervious to the elements. Then build it back up....while your doing that, pull the engine apart completely...get the whole lot cerakoated and then get someone to rebuild it - then reassemble...content gold for months!
Wise words, taking the engine out is a big cost of any work so that alone will be a cost saver and an engine builder will do the engine work quicker than you can generally.
@@garymorgan628 Cheers....i always factor that in...that being said..if done correctly the thunderace will be a beautiful moneypit...but you have to go through that to get to the other end...but if you do....then the bike will eventually start to appreciate....but then...we dont do it for that reason do we...this prompted me to upload for the first time in months...! ruclips.net/video/_AaptC_2Sw8/видео.html i lost the budget on this years ago...im guessing in the region of 3-4k...
dont use water
I wondered episodes ago why you didn't check the piston rings.
Get rid of that cursed Yamaha and buy another Honda Black Bird. You should specialize on refurbishing those lovely Honda 1100's. The Blackbird project went quite nicely and I think that is your niche. You could do the next Blackbird completely different than the last one and come up with something really cool!
Hi mate get the bore checked for wear/tolerance if ok light hone new rings away you go
Your rev counter issue will go when the tank wiring is all plugged in. It's a how all 90s yamahas were
It be no harm doing the piston rings and engine rebore cos they do burn oil at high rev as I had one
Pity, it's a great bike, I rode one for 2 seasons, until the 98 R1 came out. That engine has the heart of an elephant, and would lift the front wheel, in 3rd, at 70 mph.
Definitely you need to hold throttle wide open to do comp test.
Don't think I'd be replacing the rings sounded OK when it ran . Lot of work and potential for more heartache
For a comp test,you have to hold the throttle wide open.Also,if you did a leak down test,you would know if you have any significant leak,and where from.110 from a cold engine,with dry cylinders and closed throttle is not that bad
The minimum is 190psi
@@BikesofRye minimum is 190,on a warm engine with the throttle wide open.Did you measure it in these conditions?
@@bikeserv bike doesn't start, and with throttle open
@@BikesofRye ok,wot and 110 is low.When diagnosing an engine,a leakdown test is your best bet.might get good comp but not a good deal.a good trick to check the valves is a manual vacuum pump,like the one used for brake bleed,you put it on the port and vacuum it,you can see for sure if your valves are leaking or not.Its my job,if you need any kind of help and I might know about it let me know
The reason you do the test at full throttle is so it gets all the air it needs for a compression test
Its strange it ran on direct fuel to the carbs but wouldnt when plumbed in.
Learning curve, the frustration is real no script ❤ it 😂.....
Give yourself a little break after this monster, do a easier learner bike for a local.
Another good vid. If your gonna put rings in your need to hone bores. Best get some help with that.
Thanks for the heads up will check this out!
As long as there is compression and its within 5-10 psi of each other then it should still start. I dont think your engine work is the problem here. Assuming you checked the spark? Is the spark timing correct? Has the cdi burnt out? Are the stator magnets still intact?
Even with a blown head gasket it would still start
if its the same as the thundercat its either fuel tank not connected or tps out of whack
Any gas on that plug?? If so. Spark??
Maybe pick up a flex hone if you change the rings. Only about £30
Don't have that butt plug in when you're working on the bike, you might go cross-eyed 😲
Hey man I like the vidjos.f**k the naysayers man.keep on goin.
The day anyone stops learning is the day they've given up...fair f**ks to ya 🛠
You should have put a drop of 2stroke in the cylinders first then do the compression test with throttle wide open.
Did you open the throttle when testing
Yes tried both, made about 10psi difference, not 100 🤣
Compression test needs full throttle
The failure could be between oil way and water way of the head gasket
Was closed and fully open, made hardly any difference