REBUILDING MY ABANDONED HONDA CB250 | RUST BUCKET
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- Опубликовано: 22 июн 2024
- In this upload I really go to town with trying to remove and restore as many rusty and corroded parts I possibly can on this abandoned barn find Honda CB250 Super dream rebuild project. Let me tell you it is not easy and very time consuming.
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You can actually take the barrel out of them helmet Locks & if your key doesn't fit make the paddles inside fit your key. you get also get powder coat chrome look a likes & vapor blasting for the engine case's
Cheers for the discount code fella 👍…..and no Ducatimick sarky comments yet!!! 👌🤟🤪
If that's Jizer in your parts washer be careful,if you've left things like rubber grommets and valve stem seals it might attack them and make them useless.It happened to a mate of mine on his CB900F ,a bike of the same vintage as your bike..
I wouldn't be using a wire wheel on the gasket faces of the barrels. If you score them too deep it'll leak oil...
I was gentle plus I use an abrasive pad afterwards to smooth out any little scratches
@@BikesofRyeIf you want to remove the gasket remains mechanically without harming the mating surfaces, try 3M Scotch-Brite Roloc rubber bristle discs.
@@luddite6239 Or a surface prep wheel first for the worst and then scotchbrite or fine sandpaper 800 grit is good. I'll have to try the rubber wheel I've not tried one before for gaskets but I do have one though, usually used for removing stickers from painted surfaces.
It’s a brass wire wheel. Won’t do anything
@@Tig-Weldor on an aluminium engine I would say not to as that is a soft metal too, just not worth the risk. On this old bike though it probably wouldn't matter so much as it is most likely a steel block/head, still best practice not to. A surface prep wheel will do a better job anyway and won't take any material off no matter what metal the engine is.
Please leave the poor bikes alone
You can’t properly restore a bike “on the cheap” I’m afraid. By all means do the spannering yourself but things like Vapor blasting, fork chroming and paintwork should be farmed out if you want a decent end result.
What a great choice of the background music! I absolutely love it! It gives so much to the quality of your productions! Superb content, excellent host! Happy sunny days!☀☀
Thank you very much!
I thought the stamping on the tyre "0514" would mean they were manufactured on the 5th week of 2014.
I have enjoyed watching this restoration video.
Great progress on the engine cosmetics. Be careful though. Dangling hoodie ties and a spinning bench grinder. Tuck them in.
Well noted cheers!
I love the channel so please take this the right way, those forks need the stanchions re-chroming or they need replacing. They will leak or drag dirt into the forks.
What happens when you get a stone chip on the stanchions?
@@BikesofRyeover time it may (or may not), damage the rubber seals.
Blocked jets don't need changing. They just need, err... unblocking!
Just don't use anything that'll damage the brass.
Stick with OEM whenever possible. 👍
I’m fairly sure it will also fail MOT for pitting on the stanchion.
@@davetalton6939 no it won’t, unless the seals are leaking, which they will do in due course , possibly before it reaches the MOT station.
Just wanted to say how much i enjoy watching your vids,its very inspiring to watch you(an average person like most of us)having a go at restoration and succeeding,well done and keep producing the vids,im learning alot from your efforts 👍
Well done matey for cracking on with it. Onwards and upwards 🤛🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks mate!! Currently in the workshop working away on it I want to ride it as soon as! 😁
@BikesofRye I wouldn't mind a little go on a bike like that. Bet it would be a good crack.
Look forward to the next installment.
This guy reminds me of my mates and me in our teens
Making great progress , its all a learning curve , great stuff ,looking forward to the next vid 🏍👍🏻
Thanks dude 😎 👍🏼
I never use enamels on engine powered vehicles. The problem is that enamel paints are not oil resistant. I tried because enamels gave a much better finish while being tougher. But after contact with any oil the finish would become messy. And it's nigh impossible to keep any part of a bike oil free at ALL times.
Oily fingers etc. will soften the surface to the point of any force causing a smudge, while petrol will work as a solvent that can go as far as the paint washing off.
So, back in the 70s/80s I would only use cellulose to spray bikes & cars, but now I would use an acrylic paint - not enamel.
Check out Spraymax 2k clear coats. It is a rattle can 2 part epoxy clear that holds up to solvents and it wont dissolve the enamel paints. I have used it on multiple tanks so far and the paint it still great after years of use.
Back then in the 80's when these things came out they sold big time(ride em on a L plate)--think £ was about 700 quid new-if that tbh-when ya could av a 250 LC Yam (doing a ton) few not much more.I passed my test on one of these in 1984 --went straight out an bought a Yam 350 LC an then a YPVS 350-cost for a new YPVS 350 was £1395-i bought 2 of em me an brother-brother died mountain climbing 3 weeks later--i never rode either bike since--but i still av em--less than 500 miles each both perfect...there worth about 15--20k now each!! The Super Dream though was what we did our test on an tbh it got some stick but it sold in millions over the world-bit like C50's do--it worked--it was a Honda--the 400 was the same---loads of folk bought them-changed the side panels to 250 an rode em for years on L plates----happy days.
well done so far, looking great cant wait for the next installment
Thanks!
To polish the aluminium I would recommend using 4 zero steel wool with that aluminium polish. You’ll get a better finish
There may not be obvious high spots on those forks but I really would get them rechromed. Those divots will still catch the seals.
To polish the aluminium I would recommend using 4 zero steel wool with that aluminium polish. You’ll get a better finish
There may not be obvious high spots on those forks but I really would get them rechromed. Those divots will still catch the seals and rust will immediately start to come back out the pits.
Those mild steel brake pedals you’ve polished will either need painting or lacquering or they will surface rust at the first sign of moisture.
Your bike your rules buddy. I'm sure it's gonna be stunning when completed 👍
Hope so!
Lol 😂 bro you have opened up a can of worms 🪱 taking that bike apart, lots of cutting up so much more work than you needed too be done 😂….. keep up the hard work bro!!!
I'm trying 😪 🤣
For the chrome parts, it might be interesting to look up how to make a zinc plating set up in your shop. I know RRC restorations does this quite often but i've only seen him do it on smaller bits like brackets and bolts. Either way it does result in a nice metal like finish instead of paint. Doing a good job! Cheers man.
Zinc will not work on anything that gets hot and it is very prone to corrosion. Nickle plating is the better option.
The plating setup is the same.
Zinc, nicle, and copper plating all use the same setup just with different fluids.
@@pb222221 well there you go @BikesofRye nickle plating is gonna make those pieces shine again
To hone your skills watch Superbike surgery.....Jims skills are unbelievable
looking really nice mate im jealous,love super dreams
There is a chrome finish powder coat you can get done, although I’m not sure of cost. You could maybe give them a brush metal finish, then over lacquer them (bit of time and effort though)
Your supposed to put at leastctwo layers of primer on wet sanding with a fine grade in-between each. This flattens the primer out and creates an even surface. This will then look better snd cover a lot of the pitting. Chrome is difficult to work with, but if it's not too far gone you can rub it with brillo pads or 0000 steel wool. After that Polish it with autosol. It works on lightly rusted chrome.
When taking things back down to metal to polish it would be an idea to coat them in clear gloss lacquer to stop them rusting straight away, and it might make them look more shiny. Personally even with only 10k miles I would pop the valves out of the head and check the seats
Thanks - I did a compression check before I stripped the bike down it was up at circa 150psi each cylinder
@bikesofRye - Enjoying the build matey. Good to see an old Honda being brought back from the dead. With regards to the helmet lock I am sure there is meant to be a 2nd key being an owner of an old Honda. The key is normally silver and a lot smaller, should maybe be able to get replacements from Dave Silver spares. Good luck!!
He's absolutely right about the gasket faces you might lose compression, just clean them with wire wool.
If you have an oil can, any old oil, a drop on the point of drill bit makes it last 100 times longer before resharpening.
The less glossy paint is the less it shows defects. You should also invest in the largest ultrasonic cleaner you can afford.
Get yourself some glass bead for cleaning the alloy, thoroughly clean out the blaster first though.
Going to follow this ... I not long ago dragged a 1974 CB out of a barn that's been parked since 81 that I'm doing up, I'm converting mine to a cafe racer though
good job mate, i bought one of these brand new many years ago, it was blue until I crashed it then I rebuilt it using the black like yours. With the paint, slow down a bit, overlap the spray pattern by 50% and put the can in some warm to hot water before use, it goes on easier and goes further.
Also that paint may not be petrol proof where Simoniz Tough Paints claim to be
Good work! Amd just think... U was doing this on ur drive before 😂 Ive just started my own project bike and you give me inspiration to get stuck in!
Haha yes what a journey so far 😅 what you rebuilding??
@@BikesofRye it's a 1982 Yamaha TR1, been converted into a custom vintage style bobber. It doesn''t need a full restoration like yours, but has some engine issues and needs a lot of TLC! I'm also tempted to pull the engine out and repaint it, but like your good old days I'm doing it all at home 😂
Nice to see you doing well, keep up the good work, and if you're ever riding up north, gimme a shout! 👊🏼
If you're serious about doing as much as possible in house then I would suggest a set of motorcycle tyre levers. I did this on a Z650 restoration and it wasn't that difficult. I used the same set to remove and replace tyres on my GTR1400 to replace the batteries on the tyre pressure monitors.
For ex chrome parts if they're smooth, and also small nuts bolts and brackets, nickel plating works really well, easy to do and plenty of how to on RUclips. Clearcoat after plating lasts for an incredibly long time.
Loving the progress, keep up the good work. 👍👍
Your high build primer needs to be rubbed down with wet and dry till it is smooth. The way it works is it will fill imperfections but of course it will also build up on the metal so the imperfections are still there. When you rub back it removes some surface Primer but leaves it in the imperfections. The only issue is the tins are not great, where when it is applied by gun it puts a heavier coat on. That said, if you apply a few coats of the primer and rub down between coats you should get a good finish.
If you use a wire wheel after sandblasting you can smooth the parts out and you shouldn't need high build primer
Can get some really good chrome spray now that comes up very shiney
I've looked and it's super expensive 😫
You should try sanding the primer down a bit with around 800 grit, clean then add the colour
Great work its getting there. I would paint some of those bits you sand blasted with silver hammerite just to give them some protection. I would do the same with the rack and the crash bars it will save you a few quid. Autosolve is good metal polish also.
Excellent as always👏 All looking quite good. This might not be a problem but putting that starter in the sandblaster might introduce a lot of grit inside the workings. Though it can be taken down to bits quite easily, putting aside the electronics and gears while working on the body parts of that starter. Keep up the great work👏
Please buy a press drill vice 1 for percision and more importantly safety. If it grabs you will lose your pinky's
Good work ain’t cheap,
cheap work ain’t good…..
What about the honda cr125?
Why not partition an area off in the workshop for dirty jobs? You could even put dust sheets up and section off an area?
It's less of a priority really I am trying to now just focus on one project at a time but it will certainly be next. Its practically ready to be rebuilt I have everything I need
Have you tried using something like Evaporust to get rid of rust? I've used it to de-rust inside petrol tanks and (as long as it's above the minimum temp of 20 deg C) it's pretty good. It shifts rust without touching underlying metal (or paint) and lets you see what your working with. Not particularly cheap but it is re-usable.
Can always get yourself a chrome plating kit. Im getting one to do my bits on my 350s
Progress, progress. If you blast the chrome off (for example on the brake pedal), it's gonna rust straight away afterwards. Blast and paint. You also might want to consider the wisdom of cleaning parts, throwing crap into the air, when you have paint curing. My advice would be to partition off a part of your workshop for painting, shower curtains, polythene sheeting, or one of those super-cheap toilet tents would do the trick.
And you're probably going to want to strip down the bottom end of the motor. It's been half way round the country with its entrails open to the air. Crap in the main journals will mean extremely rapid and irreversible motor death.
Oh no ! Not the head gasket and barrel gasket face ! They’ll never seal now , bit of a newbie error there
pitting will let oil through the seals, not just rip them?
What about stone chips?
@@BikesofRyetheoretically chrome shouldnt chip.
If the pits are not smoothed down it will rip the seals. When smoothed it may let micro fine droplets out but newer seals are very soft compared to old technology and its extremely unlikely the oil loss would make any difference even if he rode the bike daily for years.
They also have new old stock rear brake lever.
The finned part with the valves in is the cylinder head - the finned part that the pistons go in is the cylinder block........ just saying ;)
Cylinder block? Ive always used the term "jugs" and the part that holds the crank is the block.
@@pb222221 Evidently you are in 'Murca then? UK/Australia/Europe use the term cylinder block (or barrels), and the part that holds the crank is the crankcase. For us 'jugs' is a term for the upper female anatomy 😆
Hey dude, love the videos, I’d recommend using some proper gloves when using that wire wheel, if that thing grabs it will shred your skin and those bolts come loose on the bench grinder, maybe try something to dampen the vibration? You do you tho bro, I’ll always appreciate the content. Lightens my dark days up ❤
Before polishing go over it with 800-1000-2000 wet and dry….sand out those casting imperfections 👍🏽
but not on the mating surfaces
Great job but just a small amount of corrosion on those pitted forks and the seals will leak. Only know from bitter experience
As to your chrome parts I believe that you can get them powder coated in chrome which will save time and money
Oh really? I would suspect you'd be able to tell though right?
Can you put the oil seal in without the stanchion in place and they maybe upside down
Chrome powder coating is an option mate but wouldn’t work on stanchions.
got to be chrome end silencers look crap if not on a superdream. should have a clean area for engine work. no dust .coming on though. well done.👍👍👍👍👍
Please could you tell me where you got the wheels for your grinder??? Great stream thanks
Heat would of helped with that switch….can’t be stuck if it’s liquid plastic. Bad idea creating dust when painting….wire brush on mating surfaces 🧐
Ahaha great minds think alike, exactly what I thought, it ain’t tight if it’s liquid 😂
A pity you can't simply fast forward the process.
Yep I'm learning how time consuming it is removing rust and corrosion and painting! I'm working tirelessly though to get the bike finished as soon as
Engine cases...i would have said sandblast and cerakote.
CY-LIN-DERS!
YOU-ARE-SO-CLEVER
@@frankiepitt9135 THANKS!
Back in the early 1980s my mate bought one new, silver and I had a second hand blue one as a commuter bike, basically a 'Learner 250cc' thrashed to death over several carless owners.
Saying that it's a Honda and they ran forever, although they handled like a wet Duck on a frozen lake!!!
Oh yea....and the nickname for the CB250N was the Super(wet)Dream.
Sorry!
Matey you have your address right there at 18:26
Tyres been on them rims since the 80s..... no since 2014
Do you think that's what tyres look like after only 10 years?
My mistate thought it was 0514. @@BikesofRye
Should don’t be using the wheel on them surfaces? You’ll make them leak and the forks need replacing they will always leak
A lot of negative whining comments on here. If you don’t like what you’re seeing why don’t you piss off and watch something else ?
I’m enjoying this home restoration and looking forward to hearing the old gal fire up for the first time.
And a lot of good advice from people who know what they're talking about.........which Rye has said he appreciates and learns from.
Quite ironic that you mention "negative whining comments".
It's a pity he doesn't do his research before tackling these jobs , when I work on my bike I always research first...@@dave8204
1st
😎😎😎
Get cases soda blasted
A little tip for removing stuck bolts, set your torque wrench the to correct setting for the bolt in question, then try and undo the bolt until the wrench clicks , then just keep clicking until the bolt becomes loose, it works like a mini impact wrench but set to a safe torque setting so the bolt doesn’t snap, it doesn’t work all the time but well worth a go 👍
I wouldn't refit it he crash bars myself. The bike will look a lot better without them.
Thats not the gearbox
Keep the old jets, the keys yer ones are awful and not the right size. The Honda jets of the era are far superior and will make tuning far easier, just clean them. DONT USE THE KEYSTER ONES!!!!!
Join a forum on these bikes, you’ll read loads about it.
The Avon tyre was made in the 5th week of 2014 hence 0514 as date stamp 👍
It's C514 way before 2014 🧐😉
The date code is "C"514 not "zero"514. The four digit code didn't appear until the 2000s. C514 means week 51 of 1984.
@@BikesofRye I see now 🤦 C and 0 very similar lol btw your address is shown in the video might want to change that 👍
Did I see straight ? A 250 super dream ? Mate I wouldn’t bother 😂what a shit 💩 bike it was
I did mention this .....he's saying it's his apprenticeship....cutting his teeth on a basic machine
take a hint and get someone who know what there doing to sort it
slow down when you paint slow/med waves across the parts it will not flash dry and be more flat ..
I will try to - I'm nervous I will get runs
@@BikesofRye na you be fine set the parts /paint out in the sun/get them warm you do good just a bit to fast and try on old peace round /flat and then you see + if you have to start over not a big deal you will get good at it just keep trying!
Keep the old jets, the keys yer ones are awful and not the right size. The Honda jets of the era are far superior and will make tuning far easier, just clean them. DONT USE THE KEYSTER ONES!!!!!
Join a forum on these bikes, you’ll read loads about it.