How to make a Boba Fett Helmet (Step by step guide) Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
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You should start by watching my introduction and prolog to this series. • How to Boba Fett Helme...
You can find quality EVA foam that is smooth on both sides here:
tntcosplaysupp...
For the thick parts of the helmets I'd suggest using the 10mm. foam.
This is part 2 of a 7 part series taking you step by step through the process of turning a foam floor tile into a Realistic Boba Fett style Mandalorian helmet, perfect for Cosplay, Halloween or Fan Films.
In order to make things as easy as possible I have made a set of templates for this build. I found a few problems with the templates, but I have fixed them and you can download them in .pdf form here:
drive.google.c...
You can download the cleaned up version of the dome templates R1 and R2 that I made in part 1.
These templates should work perfectly with the templates above.
drive.google.c...
Instructions for sizing your helmet:
At 100% it should fit someone with 23" (give or take a half inch) circumference at your forehead just above your eyes. I would take your own measurement and use a proportional scale or app to figure at what percentage to print out the templates. I just use an old school proportional scale that I’ve had sense the 80s, but there are Apps that do it too. I found one called “Proportion Scale“ in the App Store. When you get your app, type in 23 for “Starting Size” or “Size of Original” depending on the app, and Your head size for “Scaled Size“, “Reproduction Size“ or something similar. And it will give you the correct percentage. to use when printing. But, I would also print at least one page at 100% so you can mesure the 9" rule on the template making sure your device and printer are printing at the right size.
With the new Star Wars Mandalorian series coming out, I'm pretty sure your views are gonna jump by a good bit
CamJam 312
Yeah, it’s been crazy! The channel has grown by 20% in the last 2.5 weeks.
@@thepropmasterwithrobertwal6186 that's why I'm here. I've wanted to do a Mandalorian costume before but never as much as I do now. Plus your tutorial is certainly the most informative with the best outcome that I've seen
@@pragon1173 Same here!
This is the way.
Thank you for taking the time out to do this video series and for making the templates available! You rock!
I'm gonna use this helmet template for a Vile helmet from Megaman X. Thanks so much for sharing the templates!!
That’s awesome, I’d love to see it when you’re done.
Just so you guys are aware, if you use 6mm foam instead of 5mm for the bent cheek areas, consider scaling up that templet by around 20% (keep the others at 100%, or whatever scale you use for them.) This is because when you bend the templates it ends up being too small. That happens from the amount of material.
I've finished the dome mostly, and I've just got to sand it down now, I've got the face surround ready to cut out, but I don't actually have any 5mm foam at the moment, so I'm stuck for the time being really xD
Awesome build! Thanks for making such detailed videos.
Wanted to chime in and say I printed out the templates normally the cheapest way through Office Depot as I don’t have a printer, the helmet dome and mask came out a bit small, for those using the link templates try to size it up by 10-20% when printing on standard paper, and if possible the maker of the video could alter the templates to be printed at the correct scale as the ruler measurement on the paper does not match that of a yard stick when printed normally
absolutely brilliant tutorial. Great work
Dan Hunter
Thank you very much, I really do appreciate it.
Your helmet is really successful really, nice job! I would like to do the same helmet jango fett but, you do not say the mesuses in centimeters for each piece, I'm French, that's why I could not translate well this you say, thank you for helping me
Nicolas Brun just convert measurements from inches to centimeters online.
Also my dome didn’t completely match the helmets dimensions, the left side and right side ended up being different lengths, still trying to make it work and the symmetry loss is not that noticeable so far, it is trial and error at making the helmet fit into the dome, be patient take your time and use a ruler, the best advice I can give is use four registration marks to mark the sides front and back of the dome and make sure the helmet will connect at those dots to make sure the face is symmetrical, then just size the sides of the helmet to the dome and mark your lines to cut off the excess back helmet to make it fit.
THIS!!! I was looking for something like this for weeks now! Detailed, explained every step along the way, doable without a 3d printer and doable for someone with "normal" crafting skills!!! This is genius! Thank you so freaking much!!! My husband is such a big boba fett fan, I want to make one for him for our anniversary!!!
2 questions:
- I don't have a belt sander, only a handheld dremel with sanding attachment. Do you think this will work?
- is there any chance you have patterns for the whole armor for boba or know where I can get them as detailed and good as yours?
A belt sander will make your life easier, but you can definitely do this without one.
Yes I have templates for all of the armor and there are links to each set of templates on each video pertaining to that part of the armor. I have one suggestion, when you get to the part where I seal the helmet and then use urethane resin, you might want to check out the way I do that on my Sabine Wren helmet video. It just has an updated procedure. I hope this helps, Good Luck and I’m sure your husband will love it.
perfect bro thank you and free templates too thats epic
Great job! Gonna make my own now. Keep it up, like yr work!
Thanks!
Okay. I connected the long face shield thingy to the dome. I had the extra material on both sides but there was an approx 3cm gap remaining in the back. I patched it, but wondering if it is me or the tamplet. The domes... Hmmm... all-around- measure is 30 1/2 inches.
I can only think of two possibilities, the First would be that for some reason the dome templates are printing out at a higher percentage than the rest of it. (make sure the rule on the dome templates matches up with the rules on the main templates) also make sure you cut on the inside of the line when cutting them out, so that none of the line is visible on the cut out template. The added width of the line added up 8 time could really enlarge the size of dome. The second thing I can think of is maybe the dome needs to be rounded so that the edges bend down more. But to be honest, I doubt that’s it.
Using the same templates, my dome’s exterior circumference is 28 ⅝. It’s hard to know what’s going on, without seeing it. If the rules line up on all the template pages and you cut them out on the inside of the lines, than I’m clueless, and the easiest thing to do would be to reduce them 94%. That’s assuming the helmet is too big the way it is.
The size is pritty good to be honest. Size change is not that easy, we don't have "letter" oder "legal" size in Germany. I had to fiddle around for hours. But in the end, the inch matched with my inch-ruler and with the other tamplets. Maybe the thickness of the foam is deferent? But non the less, I am happy with my helmet. Tomorrow I gonna try to get some 5mm foam to finish the face and than I am gonna look for a visor. Do you think I could tint the visor befor glouing it in?
I wouldn’t tint it until the end because when you mask it off to paint the helmet, the tape will pull the tint off.
I’m glad the size worked out for you. And good luck with the rest of your project.
Great video tutorial... would be the best on the web if you provided the link for the template though. there are so many different things out there its a pain to take info from several sources.
bwtrxe
Thank you very much.
If you look in the "more information" section just above here, you'll find some links to templates for both the dome and body of the helmet.
I hope this helps.
The Prop Master with Robert Walker Oh my.... i thought the link to the google drive was the same as the R1 & R2 templates for the dome haha thank you for pointing that out! now i just have to figure out how to print it out...
I love your work ♥
Would you recommend putting the cheek pieces together before attaching them to the entire face?
Jared Logan
No, I would put the upper cheek on the face first and then add the lower cheek afterward. I think it would be much more difficult to glue the upper cheek to the face if it was attached to the lower cheek.
can i use this template for a cardboard boba helmet?
Absolutely, but because it’s made for something roughly .5 inch thick, your going to need to pad the inside for it to fit.
I'm working on this home and it's really cool in your video but I realized I bought the wrong helmet too big for your template so I had to improvise they extended the back
I don;t know if anyone asked but do you make them for people as well or strictly videos to show how?
Cat Ceder
Unfortunately, because it would take several days, I would have to charge more than I think anyone’s willing to pay.
Excellent video series, thank you very much for sharing ! you got a new subscriber :)
Is there any chance that you will make a build of a Mandalorian costume or some parts at least (from the series) ?
I probably will do some Mandalorian stuff, but not until I finish Boba Fett’s Vambraces.
cool
can I get the link to where you got the template?
mineguy 2015
I honestly don't remember where I found the original templates. I modified a set of templates made for 5 gallon plastic bucket. But you can find a link to some templates that I put together specifically for use with foam in the video description.
Hi from Belgium. This helmet (I'm currently building one) is awsome. How did you trace the place for the nose? Thanks. Keep up the good work.
Eric LEMOINE
I just put on the helmet and felt for where my nose was. Just make sure to keep it small enough to keep it covered by the visor.
hi the prop master I want to make that boba fett helmet and when i open the link for the dome i didn t find the part under the dome (the face shell).
Right now there is a glitch and that link opens up a folder instead of a file. If you look around that folder you should find a set of templates that contain everything
@@thepropmasterwithrobertwal6186 ok tank you
Excellent video, love the detail. But I have one nitpick: Wouldn't it be preferable to cut a 45° bevel on the cheek (curved part) where it attaches to the faceplate, so it gets a more natural seam and curve? That's the one thing about this helmet that doesn't look right to me. The curved part of the cheek doesn't quite bend in the right places because of the unusual way of attaching it. It needs to have almost but not quite a crease in the back corner. (To help explain: as you can see in the video, the curve on the cheek makes an upside-down U shape when it should be making more of an n shape, with a bit of a corner towards the back)
There's another channel, punished props academy and he did do a 45 degree cut on the cheeks
It been a couple of years since I did theses videos so I don’t remember how I cut the checks out. I did do the 45° bevel on the Sabine Wren helmet, and It does make a nice clean corner for the cheekbones. Just make sure to only bevel one edge otherwise your back to 90°.
great thanks a lot
These look amazing! Is there a materials list of everything you used to build?
For the helmet there is. It’s at the start of each video.
Can I use glue or superglue instead of barge because in my country barge is really expensive its like120$
Drumer TV
Absolutely, my first suggestion would be a regular contact cement, it will work in the same manner as Barge so it will be easier to put the parts together. After that, I know a lot of people who use superglue with foam all the time, so it should work fine, but it will be more difficult when putting the parts together. And definitely wear gloves.
I hope this helps, and good luck!
The Prop Master with Robert Walker Thanks in my Language Spasiba
How do I figure out what size template to use for my head? Is there a certain way to do that?
There are instructions for how to size the templates, at the bottom of the “info” section of this video. I tried to copy and paste them here but it wouldn’t let me copy them. I hope this helps.
Good luck with your project.
The Prop Master with Robert Walker Thanks for the info 👍
It looks a lot better in person. But what's that sanding tool your using because it looks like just a piece of wood
Dropkick. Dipstick.
It is a paint stirring stick with sand paper glued to it. It sounds silly but it does work really well.
could I use a hair dryer instead of a heat gun to mold the foam
I doubt a hair dryer will get hot enough. But you can get a heat gun from Harbor Freight for around $12.00 or almost anywhere else for between $20.00 and $30,00.
The Prop Master with Robert Walker alright thanks, great tutorial btw
I am your 2000 subscriber 😁
The curved cheek pieces didn't align for me. The edges were too short. Is there any way to fix that?
Assuming you are talking about the “cheeks” (the lower part that resembles a hill) and not the “cheek bones” (the upper part that looks like an arch) I ran into that issue with one of my helmet builds. I don’t know what goes wrong with the build to cause it, (probably an alignment issue with the cheekbone, sometimes you have to really squeeze or stretch the cheekbones to make everything attach evenly), but you basically have two choices to fix it. The first is, if the helmet is tall enough at the bottom of the cheek you can trim the little ends of the “mandibles” (where the bottom of the visor is). The second is if the cheeks just seem short and everything else is the right size you’ll need to measure the distance from the bottom of the cheek to the bottom of the rest of the helmet. Do this for the front and the back. Also measure the width of the cheek and cut a piece of craft foam to fit and glue it to the bottom of the cheek. You should probably install the visor first so the helmet is rigid before you take your measurements.
It’s easier than it sounds. I hope this helps.
what is the purpose of smoothing the glue unto the edges each time its applied? please forgive the question I am switching from fiberglass building to foam. Also the videos ae great!!!
Matthew Nichols
The point is to keep the layers of glue thin enough that it all dries evenly and you don’t have any areas where the barge cement is so thick that only the surface dries, leaving a weak spot. You don’t have to go overboard with the smoothing, just get rid of any thick globs.
Matthew Nichols
I hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions.
THANK YOU!!!! makes sense!
So the dome and parts of the helmet are 10mm, but what about parts like these? Are they 6mm?
DrummerBB the thinner parts are 5mm.
the templates that are in the description are slightly different from the ones given and theres this missing space in the back thats sort of confusing me cause the dome is wider in circumference than the lower portion
aero costaa
Yes they are different.
I improved the templates after I made the video. In fact I have a video all about the templates. It might help explain what is going on in the back. The two most common reasons the dome is larger than the rest of the helmet are:
They where printed at a slightly different percentage. Make sure the inch marks are the same size.
And
Cutting the dome templates out to large. So make sure you cut on the inside of the lines. The lines are kind of thick, so it can really make a difference.
aero costaa
I hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions
Thank you Robert I'll go over the video and everything
Is hairdryer ok for heat
no, sorry. i looked into that and heat guns get up to like 500-1000 degrees (F). a hairdryer wouldn't bend the foam.
Jack Stark Thanks
Might help a bit though
I have a head circumference of 60 cm. How much should I scale up the template?
I would try 105%
@@thepropmasterwithrobertwal6186 ok thank you. Appreciate the quick reply!
Just got to the point where this video ends. Mine looks a bit misshapen. I went at it with the heat gun but still doesn’t look right to me. Any suggestions?
It’s hard to say without seeing it. But assuming that you cut it out of the foam cleanly and matched all of the hashmarks when you were gluing it, you should be able to fix any oddly shaped areas with the heat gun, you might just have to keep trying.
What part is oddly shaped?
I have the same problem, it looks to skinny
@@grantmatthews677
Does it also seems to be too long?
can you do this with sintra
SUAPY
Absolutely, before I made my own templates, I used some that were made for use with a cut-up, plastic paint bucket. So I don't see why you couldn't use Sinatra. But unless you're going to put some foam inside it, you'll have to make it a lot smaller to make up for the thickness of the EVA foam.
I don’t know why but my dome is way to big and is not fitting with the other parts
Dylan Ha
This has come up before, but this is the first time it’s come up since I did the computer version. I guess the first thing to do is make sure you print the dome templates at the same percent size as the rest of the templates.
HOW MANY WATS YOU PUT IN THE HEAT GUN?
francisco perez caceres , I have no idea, it just has setting 1 through 10.
francisco perez caceres , I’d suggest starting on medium power and see how that works.
por que no pones las plantillas bro?
Google translator did a terrible job of translating, so I'm not sure what you are asking. If it helps, here are all the templates you will need.
Google hizo un trabajo terrible de traducir, así que no estoy seguro de lo que estás pidiendo. Si ayuda, aquí están todas las plantillas que necesitará.
las plantillas
drive.google.com/file/d/0B7PNiXIak4VOM3AzQTl6UmVB ajQ/view?usp=sharing
Cúpula las plantillas R1:
drive.google.com/file/d/0B7PNiXIak4VOaGstV0JIMzJhYmM/view?usp=sharing
Cúpula las plantillas R2:
drive.google.com/file/d/0B7PNiXIak4VOVG1QeFNUU2RTdDg/view?usp=sharing
drive.google.com/file/d/0B7PNiXIak4VOM3AzQTl6UmVBajQ/view?usp=sharing
I found a few problems with the old templates, but I have fixed them and you can download them in .pdf form here:
drive.google.com/file/d/0B7PNiXIak4VOcWh2SFRQLVdGcVE/view?usp=sharing
I'm not sure if anyone else has had this issue but I must have managed to miscut or missize something because when I attached the sides and face to the dome I had a 3/4 inch gap at the back i had to fill. Not really a big deal just annoying cause everything seemed to be going so well. Also for the upper cheeks I couldn't find any 5 mil craft foam at any of my local craft stores, do you think 6 mil foam will be a problem?
i actually am having the same problem but mine is about 1 1/2 inch to short to wrap all the way around. I thought perhaps i may have forgot to scale some of the pieces as i am building mine at 95 % of original but i reprinted and got exactly the same problem the second time...odd for sure. Oh also this is even with the extra extensions left on( where it says "extra to be cut off as necessary) Did you leave that extension as well?
ya left the extensions on as well. when I was working on my helmet today I got to thinking that maybe it was due to the thickness of the EVA foam I'm using. I got mine at Costco and was noticing that depending on where you bought it the thickness varies alot.
Could be. I decided to cut out the piece a second time and just added the amount it was short to my foam beyond the e.dge of template and it worked out fine. I suppose i could have just added a piece in but i thought the less seams to clean and repair, the better. Wasted alot more foam this way though. Hopefully i can use some of that foam for smaller pieces. Good luck with your build.
Good luck to you as well. As I'm planing on using bondo to cover and hide seams I'm not too worried about the extra piece. Plus most of it is gonna get removed anyway once I put the vent in the back of the helmet.
Sorry about the late reply. I’ve been away for a few days. Sounds like y’all have everything figured out. 6mm foam should work fine. I hope everything worked out.
6:30 is that 10 Mm or 5 mm Foam?
10 mm
do you think using a hot glue gun instead of the barge cement will work to?
Robin Schulz
Not for me. I go into it a little in the video. I used hot glue on the first prototype and it looked terrible. I doubt you would ever be able to make the seams disappear using hot glue.
If you can’t find Barge cement I’d try some other contact cement.
I hope this helps
The Prop Master with Robert Walker ok thank you very much for your quick answer
Robin I created this using hot glue instead of cement and its pretty cool... i mean had some issues but you can make it work just use little imagination.... Btw: awsome tutorial robert rly thx
You can get dap original contact cement on amazon for cheap
I found your videos very helpful, but you just might want cundens them a little bit.
great tutorial. sound wasnt good at all. may i suggest redoing the audio with a mic? otherwise great build.
Brandt Cothren
That's not a bad idea.
But the audio does improve in later videos.
⚠️ Important if you're working with EVA ⚠️
This shit gives you bloody noses if you heat it up, so i reccomend good ventilation or a mask when using a heat gun to bend it 😅😅
While I will *never* disagree with having good ventilation for working with all of this material, I have to say I have never had that experience despite dozens of hours of working with EVA. I guess YMMV but better safe than sorry?
I’m with General Anubis on this one.
I’ve never had any problems nor have I heard of any (unlike Sentra or other pvc products) but if someone is working with it and starts getting nose bleeds, absolutely use a respirator.
im pretty sure your pdf template is not the same thing.
I changed the pdf templates to incorporate all of the changes that I made to the helmet along the way. So you’re right that they are different from the ones that I used in the video. The current PDF templates should work much better than the ones that I used originally.
@@thepropmasterwithrobertwal6186 Im trying that one...i will update you with the final form.
@@photogramistic how did it go?
will it fit a nine year old kid
Absolutely.
As long as you can print out in percentages, I go into how to size the templates. Just keep in mind that my finished helmet was a bit more snug than when I first glued the foam together. So if It’s tight when you first assemble the foam pieces you might want to try again with templates at a larger size.
maybe, idk, if you print it in regular size, you can add pads on the inside