If you reverse chuck rotation and flip threading tool upside down, you can cut right hand threads left to right. This way you do not have to be afraid of crashing your tool. I think I got that right? 🤔
I'm sure you guys know, stainless on stainless will gall and do weird friction things. Really neat to see the willemen in action. also you might unclamp and use a little push tool to push it out of the jaws.
Thanks for the close up on process. Could you create a tool path at the end that uses the side of a tool to gently nudge the part out of the soft jaws into the shoot?
The vise jaws don't really need to butt fully up against the flange of the screw right? Keep the bore but mill an angle on the face of the jaws so the screw falls and slides down the face of the jaws like a ramp? Or just tool change in a spring and use the spring to push the screw out the jaws with the spindle? I am obsessed with the Willemin's please grace us with many videos of all the clever tricks you come up with, that machine is a goldmine. Hope to follow the "two willies in my garage" path myself.
It would actually be interesting as heck to see this redone in the orientation you mentioned, it seems like you could save~ 30% material per screw or so due to alternating T shape being one you can overlap with itself 180, but probably dominated by tool clearances needed to make it..
Could you use the milling spindle to push the part along the Z axis of the lathe and into the drop tube with the clearance of the bolt shoulder rather than the head dropping through the vice? Moot point but just an idea
What percentage to time is tool change? I like the part collector - very simple, very effective. On the last bit, you could open the jaws, put a long tool in and move it to the right to move it out of the jaws into the shoot. A finger to flick to the right.
Since you are not relying on the face of the jaws what if you milled an angle on the soft jaws so when the vise unclamped the screw would tip over and slide down the angle on the head of the screw into the tube. As long as it didnt get stuck in the radius you milled into the jaws.
Hi Guys, Why don't you decrease the etork bit size, and just go deeper into the shank of the screw? Or just increase the thickness of the head? Or rather than a flat head put a dome on it?😊
There are more way to skim a cat ... Lathe with sub spindle and driven angular geared milling head (my lathe at work would do 16000 RPM with such a head). Use an "outside" torx -> bigger radii -> bigger mill diameter -> less RPM Reverse the part (head to the right), part it off with a slanted part off tool (small bimp is left) and parts catcher. No sub spindle required.
you could also just use a blank rof in a toolholder to sweep the screw out of the vice jaws (rod does a simple left to right motion to brush the part from left to right out the vice i fucking love this machine, i sometimes am completely overwhelmed designing my own diy 5 axis cnc, althoug i already have a hobby 3 axis machine (which is one of my biggest archivements at 18 years old) and this makes me realise im at step 2 out of 50 😮
This is exactly what I thought. As long as the gap in the vice jaws is wide enough for the shaft of the screw to slide between it should work (at leaast in theory).
Couldn't this just be hex, bi-hex or if you wanted to go round bodied, ER-8 castellated nut style? Surely less risk of torquing out? Unless it's an excuse to take the Willemin for some exercise?
What about making a simple Delrin finger/hook in a tool holder and using it to drag the finished part to the right out of the vise?
I was thinking the same thing, but using a roughing endmill or something already in the machine.
Please go into the CAM/programming for this! I learned so much from Saunder's but he doesn't do that stuff any more. 😢
Genuinely one of the best willemin videos in existence
What about using a dummy tool to push the part to one side, once the vice releases?
exactly what I was thinking
12:00 wonder what kind of -flashlight- part this is meant to grab on :D
If you reverse chuck rotation and flip threading tool upside down, you can cut right hand threads left to right. This way you do not have to be afraid of crashing your tool. I think I got that right? 🤔
I'm sure you guys know, stainless on stainless will gall and do weird friction things. Really neat to see the willemen in action.
also you might unclamp and use a little push tool to push it out of the jaws.
Thanks for the close up on process. Could you create a tool path at the end that uses the side of a tool to gently nudge the part out of the soft jaws into the shoot?
Great video, and machine. Your enthusiasm for machining really shines through!
The vise jaws don't really need to butt fully up against the flange of the screw right? Keep the bore but mill an angle on the face of the jaws so the screw falls and slides down the face of the jaws like a ramp? Or just tool change in a spring and use the spring to push the screw out the jaws with the spindle? I am obsessed with the Willemin's please grace us with many videos of all the clever tricks you come up with, that machine is a goldmine. Hope to follow the "two willies in my garage" path myself.
Torque bit tool of some type on clamping head and fingers to pull tight like a bearing puller.
Interesting. I wonder if a smaller torx size that you could make deeper into the fastener would have fewer problems long-term
It would actually be interesting as heck to see this redone in the orientation you mentioned, it seems like you could save~ 30% material per screw or so due to alternating T shape being one you can overlap with itself 180, but probably dominated by tool clearances needed to make it..
Could you use the milling spindle to push the part along the Z axis of the lathe and into the drop tube with the clearance of the bolt shoulder rather than the head dropping through the vice? Moot point but just an idea
Use the spindle to push the part off the end of the vise!
That is incredible!
What percentage to time is tool change?
I like the part collector - very simple, very effective.
On the last bit, you could open the jaws, put a long tool in and move it to the right to move it out of the jaws into the shoot. A finger to flick to the right.
Was just about to write that comment myself.
You can use the coolant powered bar pullers as a gripper just pick the part up and drop in the tube
Since you are not relying on the face of the jaws what if you milled an angle on the soft jaws so when the vise unclamped the screw would tip over and slide down the angle on the head of the screw into the tube. As long as it didnt get stuck in the radius you milled into the jaws.
Yes! More Willi please :P
Push the part out of the vise using zero revs on the mill head. Low speed move so the part falls into the chute.
Hi Guys,
Why don't you decrease the etork bit size, and just go deeper into the shank of the screw?
Or just increase the thickness of the head?
Or rather than a flat head put a dome on it?😊
That machine is amazing
Tool change to a soft "stick" that can push the part out of the vice?
There are more way to skim a cat ...
Lathe with sub spindle and driven angular geared milling head (my lathe at work would do 16000 RPM with such a head).
Use an "outside" torx -> bigger radii -> bigger mill diameter -> less RPM
Reverse the part (head to the right), part it off with a slanted part off tool (small bimp is left) and parts catcher. No sub spindle required.
Put a piece of tubing in a tool holder and use it to push the part off the vise maybe?
Odd suggestion: can you open the vice and then have the spindle with an pin or drill push the part over the edge of the vice into the tube?
I've been waiting for this video, so cool
Put a hook shaped tool into the spindle. then just pick it up and let it drop into the chute. Maybe make a bigger funnel on the chute.
Have you tried heat treating the 17-4? I have enjoyed working with A2. A2 is an easy heat treat.
Agreed: Super cool machine
Millturns is the best, but you need 90 deg tools...not the 45....you can use your v-tool on ID work if you til the B 90 as well..its seeexy!
Is it possible to get a rotational attachment for the vise? Would help with ejecting
Can we have more Willey videos please?
Good sticks is right, saved on court expense and jail but cost a cruiser.... the location was good, behind a guard rail.....nice job 👮♂️
Custom hook assembled to a tool holder should do the trick.
Glue them on and save yourself the hassle of making screws, works well for I/D grinding wheels.
use self-made bt40 hook tool to take the
screw
When you said “lathe” it, I heard it in Jimmy DiResta’s voice, then a “we’ll actually it’s called turning” in baby voice.
yeah, 'lathe' is not a verb!
This was really cool...but I bet the Nakamura could make this part quicker. Given how long the wilimen takes to orentate etc
Mucho más gooder
Add a Venturi system and you could probably suck it out and do it that way to eject the part
Maybe make it on the Tornos?
you could also just use a blank rof in a toolholder to sweep the screw out of the vice jaws (rod does a simple left to right motion to brush the part from left to right out the vice
i fucking love this machine, i sometimes am completely overwhelmed designing my own diy 5 axis cnc, althoug i already have a hobby 3 axis machine (which is one of my biggest archivements at 18 years old) and this makes me realise im at step 2 out of 50 😮
This is exactly what I thought. As long as the gap in the vice jaws is wide enough for the shaft of the screw to slide between it should work (at leaast in theory).
If you're looking to up your youtube game, bring back what was imo the best of grimsmo. Knife making Tuesdays....
Awesome!
Couldn't this just be hex, bi-hex or if you wanted to go round bodied, ER-8 castellated nut style? Surely less risk of torquing out? Unless it's an excuse to take the Willemin for some exercise?
60HRC for a Screw is way to hard John!
Jon is like a shark...if he stops trying to make things better he will suffocate...