I do use a small piece of pipe in the handle. But I don’t tighten it excessively tight. I use the pipe to get a better feel more then to tighten real tight. The chuck handle has short handles. With the pipe it’s easer on the hands.
It's amazing Peter. I have just bought two chess sets today as Christmas presents for my two sons, and the pieces are made from brass castings. The pieces are then given an "antique" finish :D . What a coincidence that you release your video on the same day! All the best to you and yours over the festive period. Cheers.
Dear mr Peter, this is amazing Thank you for taking the time to make 1 piece out of brass so that we could have a good look at the machining without coolant The new camera really adds a lot of value to your video's I absolutely love how you use it with the zooming in and moving etcetera Thank you for educating us once again Greetings from The Netherlands
What do you call this Sorcery ? And pray tell - what would you recommend for a highschooler to prepare himself for a career in this field ? ( Math - 3D Art /Perspective Drafting / Solidworks /AutoCAD / Machine language ? ) I assume one leads to another and of course - job training and working in the field for 10 years - would give valuable experience by the time one is in their late 20's.....In your opinion, which part of this is the most valuable skillset to learn from the start. nice video - good job
There is a reason bells are made out of bronze. I think it's a combination of that and the way the endmill is pushing on the part. On the back side the cutting force is directed into the part and fixture and on the front its pulling away. The same thing happened with the aluminum to a lesser degree. So when the finish pass ran (in the aluminum) it cut it away. Also running the long 5 flute and high helix tool I'm using is not the most ideal for these materials. But it was the tool that I already had. I think I will use a different tool for the next ones. Thanks!
I would keep the machine marks. Did you maybe find enough bronze to make a half set? Bronze and Aluminum set... wow. I'm hoping one of the RUclips woodworkers will gift an appropriate board ;) If it's not going to grow into a set, the bronze figure would make nice front desk art in the hotel.
Thanks! If that were so the Square size would be 2.25". And yes I plan to make a complete set out of Aluminum. Anodize black and clear. I do sort of have a plan for the board out of metal. But one comment'r suggested Granite. That could be good also.
In general for a part like this. I do turning first. Then I basically run the largest tools to the smallest tool. That more or less determines the order of operations. If the part has threads I generally do them last if possible.
The camera work with the camera mounted on the spindle was so cool! Nice job. The chatter thing, have you tried tools with uneven flute spacing? We have a very low rigidity CNC bridgeport and with even flute spacing anything over 6mm chatters like hell, with uneven we can run up to 12mm. Makes a HUGE difference. YG1 4G for Heavy Roughing, part code is SEME71XXX..... It's our stock end mill type now.
It was a tool I already had not the best. A shorter tool would be better. And as you say a variable helix and flute spacing. I think the reason it chatters on the front and not the back is the way the tool pushes into the part and chuck on the back. But is pulling the part away in the front. The part has more rigidity when pushing into it to damp out the vibration.
The whole thing is being climb milled the back and the front. It’s not the climb milling that’s causing the problem. First the tool could be shorter. Also a high helix endmill with 5 flutes isn’t the best tool either for this. But it’s the tool I had. When cutting on the back side the force of the cut is into the part and chuck. On the front it’s pushing the part back and away from the chuck/spindle. A less rigid way. The combination of the bronze and what I just described is causing this vibration. A shorter 4 flute variable pitch tool would be the way to go. Also as you say rotating the part to climb mill only on the back side would also be good.
All the cuts in the program were climb milling. On a CNC machine I almost never program a conventional type cut. I think what’s more likely is the cut on one side is starting at the end of the part and the other is starting at it’s base and going toward the end.
Looks good Peter, nice work. I notice on some of the 5 axis moves the spindle moves pretty far away from the part and then rapids in for another cut. Is this something that the post processor puts in the code or is it from the CAM software?
That is a post safety retract, there are various ways to do it, one is a full retract as shown here, or it can retract to a safety plane that would clear the 3 jaw Chuck, or you can go risky and retract only far enough to clear the stock plus an inch or two. When you are making thousands of the same part everyday you optimize for minimum retracts , probably by hand coding, when you are making one chess set, you let the post do it the safe way (-:
Thanks Bill! As said by David the Swarfer. These are the standard retract clearance moves put in by Esprit TNG. I just left the default moves. It would be worth it, to reduce these. If you were running many parts. But just for a few it's safer this way. It also gives me time to change camera posistions.
I do know a little about chess. No tricks really. With chess it is mostly memorizing the play strategies, openings, mid, and endgames patterns and practice of those.
I will agree this machine is not intended for this kind of work and is slow for it. But all the tool changes in this program were necessary. Maybe with the exception of the turning. It would appear that it all could be done with the second tool (the boring bar). But in fact that bar had an interference (collision) with the parts OD if used for the first turning operation at B zero orientation. So I had to use the first tool instead. So you see It had to be that way.
You know I do subscribe to TITAN and watch some of his videos. Except for the obvious brand support/advertising and the way he expresses himself. I think his video's do have some useful information. I heard once a long time ago he gave ex-cons a second chance for employment. If that is still his policy. I will give him praise for that.
Another wonderful video Peter great camera work. The versatility of a large 5 axis machine on a small delicate piece is wonderful to watch. Quality as always. Paul UK
Would be awesome to get a video on how you modeled it. Awesome work!
THIS CAMERA WORK IS INCREDIBLE
Also for the 2nd chuck do you use a cheater bar to tighten it or is bare handed enough for what you do with it?
I do use a small piece of pipe in the handle. But I don’t tighten it excessively tight. I use the pipe to get a better feel more then to tighten real tight. The chuck handle has short handles. With the pipe it’s easer on the hands.
@@EdgePrecision Can you please share CAM file?
Thank you for all the work it takes to film and edit this! The part looks terrific too; hopefully this is a nice project to wrap up a year!
Those were some really cool camera angles. As always, extremely impressive work👍
It's amazing Peter. I have just bought two chess sets today as Christmas presents for my two sons, and the pieces are made from brass castings. The pieces are then given an "antique" finish :D . What a coincidence that you release your video on the same day!
All the best to you and yours over the festive period. Cheers.
Dear mr Peter, this is amazing
Thank you for taking the time to make 1 piece out of brass so that we could have a good look at the machining without coolant
The new camera really adds a lot of value to your video's I absolutely love how you use it with the zooming in and moving etcetera
Thank you for educating us once again
Greetings from The Netherlands
Nice, saw your Instagram post a few hours ago, and now this popped up on my RUclips front page :)
Can you please share CAM file?
Thanks!
Wow thank you!
No thanks required Peter I enjoy everything that you put out you’re just amazing individual
Another great video.
I'll cover shipping for the bronze piece.
What do you call this Sorcery ? And pray tell - what would you recommend for a highschooler to prepare himself for a career in this field ? ( Math - 3D Art /Perspective Drafting / Solidworks /AutoCAD / Machine language ? )
I assume one leads to another and of course - job training and working in the field for 10 years - would give valuable experience by the time one is in their late 20's.....In your opinion, which part of this is the most valuable skillset to learn from the start.
nice video - good job
This new camera set-up has me tripping my balls off its so fucking cool to watch.
Edge Precision.
Did you punish the robot for making a lousy job?
Really love the 5 axes at work video. Just watching the mill do its thing is so fun. The camera work is nice too.
Great job.
Amazing video and thank you for sharing with us. Just wondering, how much would a full chest set cost?
Now this was all kinds of cool. Nice part, and those camera movements was certainly unexpected, but a fine touch.
Amazing machine. But... creating the program, designing the model, is where the human artistic genius comes in .
I want four piece, horse?
I want whole set. I am staying from India.
Thanks for this! Just saw the other video last night (knight?) and now this. Very cool.
It would be nice to buy a full set like that, with bronze, brass or copper on one side and aluminum on the other. I'm sure the price would be .....
Just give it a very light glass blast and they will all look perfect and uniform.
How much for one? I don't have access to CNC and this would be a pain on my manuals. Lol
i could make a very simplified pawn on the turds i fight with
Absolutely brilliant. Wish I could make my own chess pieces like that. Well done sir.
Amazing work! Thanks for the fun project
Amazing how much that aluminum dampens.
There is a reason bells are made out of bronze. I think it's a combination of that and the way the endmill is pushing on the part. On the back side the cutting force is directed into the part and fixture and on the front its pulling away. The same thing happened with the aluminum to a lesser degree. So when the finish pass ran (in the aluminum) it cut it away. Also running the long 5 flute and high helix tool I'm using is not the most ideal for these materials. But it was the tool that I already had. I think I will use a different tool for the next ones. Thanks!
How did you program this? Was it Mastercam or did you hand program?
Fancy camera work, and good looking part!
I would keep the machine marks. Did you maybe find enough bronze to make a half set? Bronze and Aluminum set... wow. I'm hoping one of the RUclips woodworkers will gift an appropriate board ;) If it's not going to grow into a set, the bronze figure would make nice front desk art in the hotel.
Thanks! If that were so the Square size would be 2.25". And yes I plan to make a complete set out of Aluminum. Anodize black and clear. I do sort of have a plan for the board out of metal. But one comment'r suggested Granite. That could be good also.
That bronze need a little more tool pressure by less sfm
Beautiful job Peter, I hope your chess board is as beautiful as those pieces.
Now, why don't you really impress me and do it manually.
Oh no.. I broke the 1024 likes, no longer a power of 2
Any chance you would send me the DXF or the cad file
How do you break down the geometry to come up with your strategies? I can’t imagine that’s an easy answer. I have trouble with this…
In general for a part like this. I do turning first. Then I basically run the largest tools to the smallest tool. That more or less determines the order of operations. If the part has threads I generally do them last if possible.
Very impressive. I like how you did the ears.
Someone's going to have a nice Christmas...
The camera work makes it look like CGI. So cool.
The camera work with the camera mounted on the spindle was so cool! Nice job.
The chatter thing, have you tried tools with uneven flute spacing? We have a very low rigidity CNC bridgeport and with even flute spacing anything over 6mm chatters like hell, with uneven we can run up to 12mm. Makes a HUGE difference. YG1 4G for Heavy Roughing, part code is SEME71XXX..... It's our stock end mill type now.
It was a tool I already had not the best. A shorter tool would be better. And as you say a variable helix and flute spacing. I think the reason it chatters on the front and not the back is the way the tool pushes into the part and chuck on the back. But is pulling the part away in the front. The part has more rigidity when pushing into it to damp out the vibration.
@@EdgePrecision ah yeah I hadn't thought of that. Surprising if that's the case given the absolute beastly size of that spindle! Awesome vid, thanks.
Excellent Video! Loved the 5 axis shots!
Awsome:) 5 axis milling is magical, hard to stop watching. Shots from tool viev look very nice, like action movie. Regards.
I thought while watching the "sides" being cut that the piece should be rotated 180 so neither side would be climb milled.
The whole thing is being climb milled the back and the front. It’s not the climb milling that’s causing the problem. First the tool could be shorter. Also a high helix endmill with 5 flutes isn’t the best tool either for this. But it’s the tool I had. When cutting on the back side the force of the cut is into the part and chuck. On the front it’s pushing the part back and away from the chuck/spindle. A less rigid way. The combination of the bronze and what I just described is causing this vibration. A shorter 4 flute variable pitch tool would be the way to go. Also as you say rotating the part to climb mill only on the back side would also be good.
Your chatter is probably from "climb milling" on one side.
All the cuts in the program were climb milling. On a CNC machine I almost never program a conventional type cut. I think what’s more likely is the cut on one side is starting at the end of the part and the other is starting at it’s base and going toward the end.
Perfect job with perfect camera angles with perfect perfect perfect. Thanks for this superb video.
How to machine a Knight, but just with manual lathe: ruclips.net/video/4o0zamOo9kU/видео.html
Yes I subscribe to his channel and have seen this before. Thanks!
That knight would be cool as a trophy for a chess competition, slightly bigger, maybe.
Awesome! checkmate.
true MASTER! cam
Somebody's getting a very cool present for Christmas!
I would machine all of them from aluminum then have one set black anodized.
That’s the plan one set black and one clear anodize.
P-K4, very nice...if Magnus sees this, he will want a full set including the board.....thanks again, cheers
Very STRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Looks Brilliant, What CAM do you use?
I program for the Mazak using Esprit TNG cam software and SpaceClaim for my cad.
That 360 camera is awesome
Love to have that chas
And the academy award for the best use of a 3d camera goes to.... Edge Precision! :D
Very nice!
Maybe bronze rings more and aluminum is deader and that's the difference?
Use a file, it's far cheaper.
do you play chess or you just making the pieces for fun?
Yes I do play chess. But mostly against the computer.
Such a badass Mazak. More importantly, a badass who knows how to use it.
That's the coolest knight I've ever seen! Could you make the model(s) available some time?
NICE
That was fun!
Looks good Peter, nice work. I notice on some of the 5 axis moves the spindle moves pretty far away from the part and then rapids in for another cut. Is this something that the post processor puts in the code or is it from the CAM software?
That is a post safety retract, there are various ways to do it, one is a full retract as shown here, or it can retract to a safety plane that would clear the 3 jaw Chuck, or you can go risky and retract only far enough to clear the stock plus an inch or two. When you are making thousands of the same part everyday you optimize for minimum retracts , probably by hand coding, when you are making one chess set, you let the post do it the safe way (-:
Thanks Bill! As said by David the Swarfer. These are the standard retract clearance moves put in by Esprit TNG. I just left the default moves. It would be worth it, to reduce these. If you were running many parts. But just for a few it's safer this way. It also gives me time to change camera posistions.
Great camera work. You're always trying out new things.
You really out-did yourself on the cinematography in this one.
not a castle its a rook
...take my money!...
GREAT! now teach me some chess tricks!
I do know a little about chess. No tricks really. With chess it is mostly memorizing the play strategies, openings, mid, and endgames patterns and practice of those.
WOW!
WOW! the 5 ax footage with the camera on the spindle was great!
Way too many tool changes and painfully slow.
I will agree this machine is not intended for this kind of work and is slow for it. But all the tool changes in this program were necessary. Maybe with the exception of the turning. It would appear that it all could be done with the second tool (the boring bar). But in fact that bar had an interference (collision) with the parts OD if used for the first turning operation at B zero orientation. So I had to use the first tool instead. So you see It had to be that way.
Mehamozg made the same piece on a manual lathe. Pretty awesome to see how he does it.
Yes! I have seen his video. A very clever way to make one on a manual machine.
At the 5-minute mark it looks like the machine head is standing back and admiring his work cheers
Thanx Peter!
All the chatter
Thank you for sharing . I hope health and everything else is ok ?
How much rpm is the machine capable of?
The turning spindle can turn 1,600 Rpm Max and the milling spindle can turn 10,000 Rpm Max.
Spectacular
I legit thought this was a TITAN machining video I almost hit the unsub button. Good to see you again, nice videography.
You know I do subscribe to TITAN and watch some of his videos. Except for the obvious brand support/advertising and the way he expresses himself. I think his video's do have some useful information. I heard once a long time ago he gave ex-cons a second chance for employment. If that is still his policy. I will give him praise for that.
Super job.
Another wonderful video Peter great camera work. The versatility of a large 5 axis machine on a small delicate piece is wonderful to watch. Quality as always. Paul UK
I'm just a fan of machining with no experience. I really appreciate all of your videos. This one was excellent, thanks Peter.
I read this title as "Machining Cheese Knight" and was very intrigued
Nice machining and awesome cinematography, like the 360
Hiya Peter
Good Stuff
nice job
Svaka cast majstore
Holy hell!
Well done
Gnarly
Always enjoy watching your content! Maybe Hans can commission you for a set with his 100M law suit earnings... lol
He’s not going to win that. Because he was more then likely cheating.
We subscribers always knew there was craftsman and a great machinist there. We now know there's an artist in residence. Great stuff!
What would you do about the chatter normally?
In this case the only endmill I had (As you can see in the video) was way to long. A shorter tool would probably take care of the chatter problem.
Top shelf work! Love the camera. Keep it up Peter!
very good job
Is this machine only for metals?
I have machined other material besides metals.
Best maching vid i have seen in a while. Lovely camera angles. Nice work. Respect
Very nice, but kinda looks like a dog :) 🐕🦺
It kind of looks like a horse too. Or as we say in Spanish. Mas o menos.
@@EdgePrecision Of course :)