Taito Operation Tiger Arcade PCB Repair Tip And Update
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- This is an update to the Taito Operation Tiger arcade pinout video I did before. This video will show some of the progress Ive made on the board and Ive added a little repair tip as well in order to work out the glitchy graphics.
Below I have reposted the pinouts again so you dont have to go back to the other video.
This video is non-monetized (same as the last one) and is meant to be just an informative hopefully helpful video.
Thanks for watching.
The pins marked on the first picture refer to the following:
The G1 connector top row (Pins 33-64 are all Ground/Earth)
This connector has pins 32 and 31 for +12v , Pins 30 and 29 for +13v (Used for the Audio Amp I believe), 28, 27, 26 are +5v
Pins 7 to 10 are all for video
On the "V" connector, the correct pins are Pin 1=Red, Pin 2= Green, Pin 3=Blue, Pin 4= Sync, Pins 5/6=Ground (GND).
If you dont have the filter board "G1" pins, the pinout for video is 7 = RED, 8= Green, 9=Blue, 10= Sync, . I originally had Red and Green backwards but when I switched them around again, the colors came back. The characters look human again and less zombie like. This revised pinout is correct. If you are watching the video, you will need to switch Green and Red only. (They were connected to each other when I did a continuity check).
Connector S appears to be for the sub board related to the guns. (unsure of pinouts)
Connector C has the middle row of pins 33, 34, 35, 36 as +12V. (there were other points as well in the middle row but that should be enough. double check pin 36 as well) Pins 73 to 78 are all Ground.
Pin 57 is the "Select/Enter" button for the test menu and Pin 56 is the "Cancel/Back" button for the test menu *There is a possibility that these are also "shoot or bomb"? Im not 100% on it. Feel free to let me know below.
Pin 95 is Coin in (also connected to the G2 connector) and Pin 93 is Player 1 Start
Connector P is the power input area and it distributes power to the other pins mentioned above.
The nice part about this is there were test points (TP) above the connector which made it much easier to figure out what the power rails were.
The far left Pin 1 is +12v, Pin 2=+13v, Pin 3, 4, 5 = +5V, Pins 6, 7, 8, 9 = Ground
Connector G2 has odd numbered pins i.e. 1, 3, 7 , 9 etc on the bottom row and even number pins i.e. 2, 4, 6, 8, etc on the top row.
The pins I have found so far are:
Pins 50, 49, 48, 47 = GND , Pins 46, 45, 44 = +5V, Pins 43, 42 =+12v, Pin 39 = P2 Start, Pin 38 = Coin In, Pin 35 = Test ( * it is also Pin 91 on the "C" Connector which I forgot to label). Pin 34= P1 Start, Pin 30 = "Select/Enter/ maybe shoot"?, Pin 28 = "Back/Cancel/maybe bomb"?
The pins in between the other pins (not mentioned) read around 4.38v when I was probing them. I dont know which ones are the Analog inputs yet but Im guessing they are somewhere around there If anyone finds out, please post below
Double check the picture and the information here to double check it is correct and then try your board out and see if it boots up.
A bit of a write up here but just trying to contribute some info here that will hopefully prove useful to someone out there lol.
Hey Luke! :) To not have flashing when filming a crt, you need to set the shutter speed of the camera to the refresh rate of the tube. So if it was running at 60 Hz, you would set it to 1/60.
Thanks a lot my friend. Thanks for the tips :) This camera that Im using is actually a combination of 2 broken cameras and it doesnt like to focus correctly as well lol. Ive managed to get it working in the past but its on its last legs. I think I might have to switch over to my phone for recording soon.
@@lukemorse1 You can do this on your phone as well in what will likely be called "Pro" mode or something similar.
You CAN do it Luke! We believe in you! You are the Fix It Felix of PCBs after all!
HAHA! with a hammer and crescent wrench we can fix any of these boards! thanks a million my friend. Ill see what I can do
@@lukemorse1 We're All (by we I mean all of us followers of yours) certain you can pull a miracle with this one, just like you've done in the past. Even if it takes a bit more of your time, we're pretty sure you can make it happen 👍💪
Fantastic bro thanks for the update
Thank you so much. Hope it helps out a little bit!
Nice update, good to see your getting closer to getting this one back to its former glory Luke, colours look great now tho. 👍
Take it easy dude 🤠👊
Thanks a million man! yeah, really close with it but the controls will be fun to figure out. Hope to be able to do some gameplay on it in the future once I get it fully running. Hope things on your end are going well too!
I don't think I have even seen a Tiger at the arcades in the states. Honestly, I was soo disappointed in the third installment - not sure if I would've given a chance. Do you have a hot air station? Might've helped more with that ridiculously located I.C.
Ah, I can see where you are coming from. Im not sure how this one plays but hopefully it is a fun one. I dont have a hot plate and unfortunately for this pcb there are quite a few surface mounted caps under the ram chips so I couldnt hit it from the bottom. Definitely a good tool to have. Thanks for checking it out
Never heard of this game. Was this trying to compete with Time Crisis? The graphics look similar.
It is a very uncommon addition to the Operation Wolf series and there is a possibility it was trying to compete with Time Crisis. The thing about this one is that it still uses mounted guns versus light guns which might have lead to it going under the radar. Not sure.
Hope to see some mission creep toward the Second Mission rom upgrade. Stay frosty Luke.
Lol, That would be nice. Really looking to get this monster playable here soon though! Thank you
Good job, Luke. Can I recommend amtek tacky flux and lots of isopropyl to was off the flux? Also, if you have a hot air station, set it on low to blast the rest of the flux out from between the pins and underneath? Also, u might want to consider using solder paste for tight spaces like that. A good hot air station is so underated for smt imo.
Thanks for the tips. I do use Amtek and alcohol for cleaning but for this video ( not sure if I mentioned it or not) I had just finished installing the other ram chips and reflowing the first set. The issue with this board is that it has smd caps on the bottom of the ram as well so heating from the bottom is a no go. I agree though, a hot air station is good for smd chips for sure though.
Hi Luke.. greetings from Germany. I got a Operation Tiger 2nd mission pcb set.. I make a jamma adapter with your descriptions.. but the pcb isn’t booting. I checked the voltages, i reseat the EPROMs and socket custom ic’s. But nothing helped for now.. do you have some additional info?
Love me some classic Taito boards, some good progress being made ☺
You and I both 😁. Glad to have it come along this far. Thanks as always!
Great repair work. A Craftsmen. Cool game, too. Hope you sorted out anything else easily.
I forgot you were working on this! I hadn't even heard of it til a few weeks ago had no idea taito had another operation sequel. looks like it's really coming together though. IDK if you're setup to do gameplay for it but that would be cool to see in a future video.
Yeah man, Ive been working on this for a couple of months at least now but Im getting there. Hopefully I can get it up and running soon to do some gameplay on it. Since it is such an uncommon game, I think I need to put up a video showcasing it for sure. Thanks as always!
@@lukemorse1 sweet, looking forward to it looks like a fun gun game.
honestly man, I just find these SO intriguing, it's just interesting to see how these poor old things can be fixed up and what they even look like...keep up the good work sir
Glad to see you still rocking on the same as usual!
Just one of these boards at a time. hope to have it fully working soon 😏
Nice update
Thank you Tony as always
@@lukemorse1 your welcome Luke