How to Install a New Toilet | Ask This Old House
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- Опубликовано: 15 янв 2016
- This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey heads to Cheyenne, Wyoming, to help a homeowner install a new toilet.
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Shopping List for Installing a New Toilet:
- Two-piece toilet [amzn.to/2H2pMAC]
- Toilet seat [amzn.to/2IXI8Vo]
- Wax toilet ring [amzn.to/2GTQQAK]
- Shutoff valve [amzn.to/2IW2U85]
- Stainless-steel water-supply line [amzn.to/2VbW2K5]
- Emery cloth [amzn.to/2V26OgV], used to clean copper pipe
- Shallow pan [amzn.to/2DKqv7u] or small bucket [amzn.to/2PJJmnO], for catching water spills
- Cloth rag [amzn.to/2IVcs35], for plugging the drainpipe
- Closet flange [amzn.to/2DMwLf0] with closet bolts [amzn.to/2vCLjt6], used to secure the toilet to the drainpipe
- PVC drainpipe and fittings [amzn.to/2XYSyaS]
- PVC primer [amzn.to/2GQcbe7] and cement [amzn.to/2vxt6x3], used to glue the PVC drainpipe and fittings
- Masonry screws [amzn.to/2Y7iotf], for screwing the flange to a tile floor
Tools List for Installing a New Toilet:
- Drill/driver [amzn.to/2UR4vxf]
- Screwdriver [amzn.to/2GYJ4Wf]
- Internal pipe cutter [amzn.to/2GYJMmn], used to cut PVC drainpipe
- Hammer [amzn.to/2ZTYvYy] and cold chisel [amzn.to/2IZ6xd7], for chipping off thinset mortar
- Tubing cutter [amzn.to/2WmHO5L], used to cut copper pipe
- Two adjustable wrenches [amzn.to/2VIUsPp], for tightening the compression fitting
- Pliers [amzn.to/2UZQjCj], used to tighten threaded fittings
- Wrench [amzn.to/2LoHC4S], for tightening the nuts on the toilet-tank bolts
- Carbide-tipped masonry bit [amzn.to/2WlHZhz], for drilling through tile
- Mini hacksaw [amzn.to/2DIttsP], used to trim the closet bolts
Steps for Installing a New Toilet:
1. Turn off the water at the meter.
2. Open all faucets on the upper level of the house, then open the tub or shower valve in the bathroom where you're installing the toilet.
3. Use emery cloth to buff clean the copper pipe stub-out protruding from the wall.
4. Put a shallow pan or a small bucket under the pipe stub-out to catch any water.
5. Use a tubing cutter to cut the pipe stub-out to the proper length.
6. Slip a new shutoff valve onto the pipe stub-out, then tighten the compression fitting with two adjustable wrenches.
7. Close all the faucets and valves opened in Step 2.
8. Turn the water back on at the meter.
9. Temporarily plug the toilet's PVC drainpipe with a rag to block out sewer gases.
10. Trim the PVC drainpipe to the proper height using a drill/driver fitted with an internal pipe cutter.
11. Use a hammer and a cold chisel to chip away any excess thinset mortar from around drainpipe.
12. Glue a new closet flange onto the drainpipe with PVC primer and cement, then insert two closet bolts into the slots in the flange.
13. Drill through the mounting holes in the flange and into the ceramic tile with a carbide-tip masonry bit.
14. Secure the flange to the floor with masonry screws.
15. Bolt the toilet tank to the toilet bowl, making sure to install the included rubber gasket between the two parts.
16. Attach the toilet seat to the toilet bowl with the two included plastic bolts.
17. Press a wax toilet ring onto the closet flange, then remove the rag from the drainpipe.
18. Set the toilet over the closet bolts protruding from the flange. Press down on the toilet to compress the wax ring.
19. Place the washers and nuts onto each closet bolt and alternately tighten each nut with a wrench. Do not overtighten the nuts.
20. Use a mini hacksaw to trim each bolt.
21. Snap the included plastic cap onto each closet bolt.
22. Tighten one end of a stainless-steel water-supply line to the shutoff valve. Connect the other end to the fitting on the underside of the toilet tank.
23. Open the shutoff valve to fill the toilet tank with water.
24. Put the lid on the tank, then flush the toilet to check your work.
About Ask This Old House TV:
Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we're ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers—and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O'Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook.
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How to Install a New Toilet | Ask This Old House
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The way he says "that's awesome" is so hilarious!
Lol like a child in a candy store lol lol
Lmao Fr
I love how he makes the guy he's teaching lift the toilet lol
We have a sign at work that says “avoid workplace injuries, make the new guy do it”
💩
If I hired a plumber to do such repair or replacement of the toilet, I would not lift that such heavy one.
Professional Plumber
6:19 “Be careful with YOUR back because MY back’s not going to get hurt here!” 🤣🤣🤣🤣
When I install the Johnny bolts to mount the toilet, I use a sharpie and mark a line on the top edge of the bolts perpendicular to the T in the t-style Johnny bolts. That way, I can be sure the bolts haven't rotated around where the narrow part lines up with the flange slot causing it to pop out easily when tightening the flange nuts. It's frustrating when they do that and you have to pull the toilet to reset them. A little prevention saves a lot of headache.
I love plumbers like you. I don’t have to worry that you’re going to cut a corner the second I walk out the door. Now, that isn’t to say the guys who do, are doing something wrong. That isn’t what I mean. I’m just saying that having a plumber, or any other tradesman who has proven they have an attention to detail, and take pride in THEIR work even if it’s on someone else’s project, is so valuable. I will pay 20-30% more to hire those kinds of tradesman. I always say to other builders, “is it really worth saving 10,20,30% if you have to baby sit them, and worry about it? The peace of mind is worth the extra money. And to be honest, when you try to save money by hiring inferior tradesman, you almost always end up spending more fixing problems. These problems might not even be things the plumber caused. They could just be things the plumber didn’t notice that were done wrong by the previous tradesman. Like if the drywall guys don’t put the light hole in the right spot. Then the electrician installs the light in the wrong place, and says “well that’s where the hole was, and that’s where the plaster guy brought the whip through, so that’s where I installed the light.” The electrician could have come to the builder and said “hey this whip was pulled through into the wrong area” and saved the builder time, and money, because the builder will have to pay the electrician to fix it because technically it’s “not his problem.” Those things add up when electricians are making 80 an hour the minute you step outside the contract.
I will literally get into fights with other builders for stealing my contractors without asking. I know many who will. Luckily I pay my guys well, and they like working for us. Anyway, this was a long way for me to say thank you, because you’re the guy I’d pay 30% more because you’re worth every penny.
The ending was great. He flushes the toilet “That’s Awesome “ lol 😂
I thought I had seen most tools in my life as an electrician. But that internal piep cutting drill attachment is pretty nice.
Thank you so much for this video it was very helpful to replace my old toilet with no problem!
As a Professional Plumber, i really like the way that you have presented in this video. Thanks for the good work.
Muy buena explicación felicidades
Would have left the length of copper coming out of the wall slightly bit longer so that in the future if a plumber goes to change that compression valve they can do so without having to go into the wall because the previous valve deformed the pipe and made it now too short for a new one ✅
Great video for me to practice learning and applying the skill in doing it myself on DIY projects around the house.
thanks mate.
Can't beat quality clean work. It's the little things that goes along way
His work is clean and simple, nice work
I always cut stub outs long enough so that I have access to the ferrule or brass ring in case i need to cut it off in the future. Basically add the width of the nut to the length. I’d also recommend using a stainless steel flange. For on me it’s much stronger. That plastic will break easily. For two, you can glue it and still spin the ring to where you want it so it’s much more forgiving
No kidding! When the shutoff valve fails someday (and this one will because he didn't use a quarter-turn angle stop) you will be cursing yourself for not leaving an extra inch. And since DIYers are likely to over tighten the nut and distort the pipe, you may be in trouble sooner than later. Oh, and he could have used a Sharkbite angle stop, or at least mentioned it as an option.
I had a PVC flange break so I replaced it with a metal one. I get to see tomorrow if it was the right choice or not. Because now I'm changing that whole toilet. I hope it is in good shape.
excellent video. thank you for sharing.
now this is how you teach someone to do something, great video G.
Thanks for the useful tips. My install turned out great with no leaks!
What fun is that
Thank you. Very Clear explanation
Brian's "That's Awesome" shirts 👕 coming soon 👍🏼
exactly what I need for today. Thanks man.
Ya'll are awesome, thanks for all the great content. Very helpful.
I would leave the Maximum of supply pipe. You are now screwed if that connection leaks or you need to change that valve. 9 and '3'. Tighten Tank and toilet evenly. Turn on water before connecting to toilet and check. The plastic retaining nuts become brittle over time and can slowly or suddenly fail. I put a Rad Clamp around them and tighten it snugly.
Thanks you guys saved me 500$, I’m not kidding. These plumbers think it’s some kind of heart surgery. They have the audacity to ask 500$ .
Nice job, thank you for sharing !!
Nice video thanks so much and God bless you for share those video
All right Rayan you get honor of dropping first duce and first flush 👍🏻
Great video
Internet winner!
He cuts the drain pipe down below the finished flooring so it works with the particular flange he used. Once you cut it off you don't get that back again in case things change in the future. Another option is to cut it off flush with the finished floor and use a push-in (or push-tite) flange instead that fits inside the drain...some have a gasket and some are glued in. This also would mean he wouldn't have to remove any material from around the pipe like he did.
It’s a special drill bit but I won’t tell you what it is so you can’t buy it 😂🤣
I agree.
Wow!! Amazing explicit and profecinal vídeo, Thanks for shearing your knowledge with us, god bless you
Andrew Slone does the flange have to be level with floor
fantastic .. very informative to common man . experts are still watching !!!
I like how ol boy came in there hot and excited to get that first flush. Probably sitting outside the bathroom biting his nails in anticipation of that woosh.
should mention remembering to remove the rag you put in the sewer pipe
Hahaha i know right ;) he forgot about that. First clog hahaha
He would have removed it before the toilet was put into place
bob woerner
Common idiots really the rag
do they make a cap or something that can be easily removed for that?
Great video we found it very helpful!
I tell you what I saved so much money by watching your videos thanks a lot
Went just like you said. This was an awesome video. Thank you for the detailed, step by step instructions.
My issue is I had to work a little harder to clear space around the sewage pipe....lol
Womam
You can always get a different style flange that fits inside the pipe instead of around it. With that, you only have to cut it flush with finished floor
Dear TOH, 👍🏻 your videos. Can you consider one in automatic garage door maintenance. How to keep weatherstrip from sticking in winter, how grease the belt, how oil the rollers, etc.? Thank you. 😊
Viet nam express
Hit the rollers and hinges on the door with some Fluid Film every 6 months. About every 4 years you can wipe the chain down with some chain lube. As for the sticking weatherstrip, sprinkle some kitty litter down where the strip rests.
Very clear explanations. Thanks
Wonderful video. Thanks, guys!
This is an excellent video, thank you! I’m sure those who disliked it are plumbers who overcharge people.
If you don’t like the price just fix it yourself.
I think a shark bite stop valve would work well in this case. Easy access to replace and easy to slip on a new valve.
Thank you for making this video. It is great.
Thanks guys !
Always ream out your pipe after your cut and always check the tightness on your flush valve nut...
Many here complained about a toilet water supply line cut too short. A way to avoid this and to make life easier for a homeowner down the road is to solder a male adapter to it and use not a compression valve but a FPT valve (female thread). That way if it ever needs to be replaced, it's easy and painless.
If you put water or liquid in the bowl, should you hear water trickling down int o the waste pipe? Leveling issue? the bend was changed.
Great job guys!
You have to be careful when tightening the water line to the tank. Sometimes the mechanism inside the tank will twist on you.
Great work, but that copper pipe was cut so short, next time you need to do work on it, you are not going to have any room left to cut it down if needed.
I agree; I always want a fudge factor when working on something.
Yeah, I thought the exact same thing. Should have left some more room.
That was a screw on connecter, he's good.
Yeah . I thinking the same thing .. basically.. u don’t leave any pipes for the next , remodel or issue lol ,
I remember having to cut into the wall just to replace an old leaky inline faucet, but I decided to just replace it with pex tubing instead of copper.
I dont know why but im addicted to this series
Your videos are so helpful! Thank you so much!!!
"THAT'S AWESOME!"
Ha ha
"That's Awesome!" :)
Taking a dump is 10 times more satisfying when you know you've personally installed the toilet you're sitting on...
Thanks for this.
I c alot of comments downing what he did....but as people in the trade....every body does it different. ..relax i was always humble 2 learn different methods. ..let him do what he do
Tavis Cunningham Absolutely agree, the next guy in there can do it right. Won’t be long before that plastic flange will need replacing
@Pretty Decent because??
What’s janky?
@@Artg3nC
Janky= terrible work.
Amen
Think about other contractors that have to do a repair. Don't cut the water pip so close the wall
+KYRM09 exactly my thoughts lol why da hell would you want a pipe that short?
As a repair technician, I was thinking the exact same thing. What he did was very short-sighted.
Gerald L lol yea, because sometimes those compression fittings, you can't get the ferrule off so you gotta cut the pipe off and if it's that close to the wall, there is no more pipe to cut
+bludika Exactly.
Gerald L what a jackass
These videos are excellent.
Excellent video! Thank you!
The Honor comes with a new toilet when your the first to deposit a GIANT TURD!!!!! Now that is an HONOR!!!!!!!!
The passing of the first turd is a mighty tradition in this household!
3.33 That was me who did you a favour and put that wrap around the pipe to make it easier. You can send me a dollar if you want.
That is a great idea, someone was using their head.
L
@@RayleighCriterion ßas
Pp
I wish you was my boss. Such a nice guy and well explained.. Thank you sir..
he probably screamed after the videro
Excellent istructions to installe a new toilet
So when that shutoff valve goes, you'll have to cut into the drywall, replace the whole section of pipe, patch the hole, apply knockdown texture, prime and paint. All because you didn't wanna leave an extra half inch of pipe sticking out of the wall. Smart.
That's funny because that's the first thing I picked up on when I watch the video. And I had to rent about it you'll see my comment above.
Or you can just buy another shutoff and leave the old nut.
@@investingwithpaco6540 you can't always use the old nut and compression ring. I've had old rings that were deformed or damaged from the original compression and could not be reused. That's very common.
@@investingwithpaco6540 You also leave the old ferrule......
Great points and all accurate.
Use a multi tool and make a square cut.
Replace the new fitting and shut off supply valve.
Take the new dry wall or green board and make an "Indian patch".
Cut the square on the back of the new drywall, but DO NOT CUT ALL THE WAY THROUGH AND PEEL THE PAPER BACK A FEW INCHES FROM EACH SIDE OF THE FRONT.
this will leave dry wall paper to leave ZERO seams.
I'm here to see the expert advice from the comment section.
Me too lol. Is hilarious to these guys are professionals and know what they are doing just because people have a different opinion or a different way does not mean it is wrong
Benji Mcdowell it’s wrong to cut the pipe so close to the wall. Just bcuz they have a piece of paper license doesn’t make them automatically an expert and 100% right on all things plumbing. Even pros make mistakes
I'm here to understand why 1.1k people dislike this video? What the heck.
Well first of all, the wax ring needs to be installed on the toilet and not the floor! Putting it on the floor first is just an amateur move.
@@ryanchabot5629 it’s now 1.2K as of November 2020
Great how to video Guys!!! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽😀
Great video. This is what I need.
"That's an awesome stool you've just excreted, Richard !"
"Way to go kiddo. I'm proud of you."
@@PaulyM856 Thanks Dad. Your approval is paramount.
I recommend a handful of toilet paper to block the sewer gas. I almost left a rag in the line.
I like that little saw you put on the end of the drill ! I want one for Christmas ! ( :
the most i liked when he said you have the honor to get the first flush
Along whti leaving more feed line exposure it is always a good idea to secure bolts to flange with washer&nut to insure they stand straight and tall and never ever spin when the next guy pulls the bowl off. Also it is advisable to mount tank to bowl After bowl install. I am sorry but I expected more from This Old House.
Sorry, 1:20 was too short cut of pipe from the wall. Better live extra inch for a future valve replacement.
It's a compression fitting. Get a new one with another compression fitting and you never have to worry
It's very helpful thanks
Nice Richard! Gotta get one of those mini hack saws!
he's such a pro....I love watching pro's. Had I done this...several mistakes would surely have happened.
lol.
I have been a C36 plumber for 39 years and I would never put a plastic closet ring on that pipe. They make them made out of steel and stainless steel. I always use the stainless steel ones since they will never rust out and you will never have to replace the closet ring ever again. Just experience of wanting to do it once and never having to go back to do it again. Also, I see they never did put quick dry cement around the closet ring and have coated screws go down into the floor for a cement floor. For a wooden floor, they did it right. But when they were setting the toilet they never did level the toilet, they just set it without leveling it. Not a good move. Maybe I am pickier and want to make things right to where nothing will go wrong after an installation like that. This is how I was taught back in the 70s, And I have never had a problem with toilets after I set them.
agreed...... I'm no plumber, actually a school teacher, but I always pack plumber's putty around the ring to keep the water from going under the sub floor in the event it starts leaking underneath. Moreover, i caulk around the the toilet base, but leave a 1" gap on the side and rear also to see when water starts to leak, but to stop most on the accidental toilet overflow.
R
I agree with your opinion on the closet flange with a stainless steel ring, but that flange should have been flush with the finished floor, NOT ON TOP OF THE TILE.
Conventional wood sub floor, or on slab (this video), it should be secured with screws. This old house is full of shit.
I can't wait til the owner gets tired of his new toilet rocking on the flange and the smell of sewer gas because of the compromised wax seal. I get to fix issues like this on a regular basis.
Keep doing it wrong out there, I'm getting paid!
Frank De Mascio , I've been a plumber for 30 years, the flange should sit on top of finish floor. Not below it and yes use a flange with a stainless ring. I've replaced dozens of those cheap ass plastic type. And ALWAYS ANCHOR flange to the floor, that is what supports and holds the toilet to floor.
Have you ever put silicone at the base of the toilet to keep it from moving?
R s. S
Interesting....! Nice information for my toilet reinstallation .
Amazing work
Why not attach the tank to the toilet AFTER the toilet is secured to the floor. Seems to me it would be easier to mount each separately, because the combined unit would weigh a lot more.
I was wondering that myself. Many years ago a plumber where I worked told me to install the toiled first and like you said then attach the tank. I did it that way and it worked out fine.
If you're roughing, it makes life a helluva lot easier if you install the flange before the floor and tile go down. Of course, you need to make sure to compensate for the width of the tile when you're roughing and putting the flange down. I usually cut 3 small pieces of pex to stick underneath the flange to compensate the tile width and screw it right to the floor. Saves you having to do that cut beneath the floor that he does in the beginning and ultimately saves you time.
And yeah, he cut the water line pretty short, but from experience, homeowners don't like the copper showing so it's habitual for plumbers to cut the toilet water line flush or as close as possible to the chrome extension. Your job is to make sure the customer and homeowner is 100% satisfied, it's not your problem to worry about the next guy that'll have to work on it and that he might have a harder time than normal, even though that next guy will probably be you anyway.
stubbing up 4" for the closet flange is the easiest and best method. No need to even worry about floor thickness.
Thanks a lot; vey professional!
I always put a strip of silicon under the closet outer base along with the wax ring before setting them.
5:10 "I'm gonna give you this, a couple of nuts."
Jajajajaja
Wow. you cut the pipe a little to short. What would happen if the pipe was loose and it slipped in the wall? Also when using compression valves you should use some teflon pipe thread sealant on the brass delrin.
Richard does know what he's doing he is a professional
Great 👍, good work done ✅ i can change now my oldest one with a new now
I agree on cutting the pipe too perfect and leaving some room "just in case" think he did a pretty good job although i would have added teflon to the connection. Also I have had a plastic ring installed for 22 years changed three toilets o same one and it holds up fine.
There are also metal flanges to buy (steel or aluminum). The plastic ones can crack. And I haven't seen a nylon one made yet or a resin made one either. I have been a caretaker for numerous apt buildings so I have done repairs and replacements before. There usually is a WHOLESALE electrical/plumbing warehouse or store in most bigger cities where you can get parts a lot cheaper than Ace, Lowes or Home Depot!
The throne, where alot of thinking gets done. :)
Did the guy flushing the toilet just say it was Awesome? Sounds like his first time!
Thanks it well be helpful for me
Thanks for the great Video... Very nice...
Why not install the toilet tank after the bowl is set? Save your back a little work.
your right man. thats the way it should be
because even though the toilet is heavier with the tank on, it is actually better balanced to handle with the tank on, l have installed hundreds of toilets both ways and prefer to install them with the tank already on.
Plus without the tank you can even out the equal amount of weight distribution when setting bowl to wax ring
Bcuz he trolled that noob
Sergio Arreguin What? Lol 😆
Installing a flange on the finished floor may be too high for some toilets. If your toilet doesn’t touch the floor in both sides, then your flange is too high. I had that problem with a Mansfield Vanquish toilet.
THAT´S AWESOME.
That’s a cool tool for cutting the pipe from the inside. First time I see it.
Please file off the sharp edges after you cut off the excess length of the bolts. You might never come back again, but someone who will service it may get a nasty unhealthy cuts on their fingers.
This guy cut the pipe so short towards the wall. Hard to repair in future if it leaks. I would not follow his advise...
Thats what i thought too but there is a hand tool to take to take of that bronze ring. Wont have to worry for many years from a leak at that valve.
I believe the measurement is 1 inch and 1/8- 1/4" from the wall.it depends on the angle stop. His looked a little short
Don't worry about it that connection will last forever
I was thinking the same thing "gee, that would suck if someone had to replace that valve due to a leaky connection"
@@mikemakboul4409 The connection may but shut off valves fail all the time.
Thanks. What holds the brass flange bolts in verticle position so the toiled bowl can be lowered on to the flange?? Great video!!😊😊
Some blots come with a lower nut and washer .... others come with a plastic holder that keeps them straight....
Aww man they blasted right past what I was looking for. Specifics on how tight to go with the tank bolts? Enough to make a water tight seal or run it down until the tank is tight against the bowl? Not a dumb question because too tight and the bolts will snap the porcelain bolt flange. I was shown by a guy who I discovered sucks at plumbing so I am trying to re-learn everything he taught me.
Boy, Rick sure ran away to keep from carrying that toilet.
Lol Lol OMG!! He tried to hide to avoid doing that part but failed miserably. "Oh..., Rick!" His back was hurting and it was obvious. What lazy a## plumber!
For those who are correcting his methods make your own video and see if everyone will agree with you or not.
It is not a matter of agreement. There are many ways to do things. Some much better than others.
Can anyone tell me specifically which drill bit is best for tile? Do I need a separate drill bit to drill my pilot hole (there's cement below the tile)? and 3rd which are the best anchor screws to attach the flange through the tile and cement? Thank you in advance.
good job. thanks for sharing your knowledge