IT would be great if you make a video of what to check before riding. Breaks and how the must look like to be secure, apropiate tire pressure, lights etc. I have a 2007 BMW 1200RT. Great video, thanks.
Hello Johnston- nice video- I ask you- can this Brake Fluid flush procedure can be done on Brakes with ABS BMW models too? for example on model R1200R of year 2006, Thank you-
I would like to offer a simpler and even cheaper, and dare I say better way to do this, which is the old fashioned way. 1. Put your 8mm (closed end!) wrench on the bleeder. Put a clear plastic hose on the nipple, going UPHILL for at least a little bit. I put my catch jar on something, say a 5 gallon bucket, then my hose makes a U shape. UP from the nipple, over and down into my catch jar. Hope that makes sense. (We also don't need 10 minutes of video to convey something that can be written in a few clear sentences.) 2. Fill the reservoir with new fluid and then do the old sequence: Squeeze the lever/pedal, crack the wrench open, watch some fluid come out, close the wrench, release the lever/pedal. Squeeze, crack, close, release. Repeat. 3. Keep the fluid topped up, note how much it goes down each squeeze-crack-close-release cycle so you can predict when to add more fluid before the level reaches the bottom and lets air in. (The holes in a reservoir are VERY small, and it's difficult to get the air out so make darn sure they are ALWAYS covered in fluid.) 4. When the fluid coming out of the nipple looks new - very light colored - you are done. * The point is IF the hose goes uphill, there is no way to get air in the system. Subsequent cycles will push the fluid up and over into your jar. 5. When done, lower the catch jar off the bucket so the hose goes DOWNHILL without falling off the nipple, all the fluid slowly drains out, disconnect it. Not a single drop spilled! * Vacuum is "less good" cuz it tends to pull air through the threads of the bleeder nipple. Also "less good" cuz you can't see if there are air bubbles coming out with the fluid, WHICH IS THE VERY IMPORTANT. Also "less-good" cuz it's a waste of money and makes an unnecessary mess. And DON'T use an electric impact driver on small screws like brake caliper pins. Jeez. FEEL the threads to learn if all is well or they are corroded, etc. So, skip the silly vacuum bleeder. PUSH the fluid out UPHILL with the lever/pedal. Examine the fluid as it slowly flows into your upward hose for color and air bubbles. BONUS TIP: on your nice new brake fluid bottle with the foil seal: Don't remove the seal. Slice the seal with a knife across the opening. Pour with the slit vertical. The fluid will pour out very slowly and in an easy to control fashion. No need to glug out fluid all over the place. Good luck. Learn to make simple physics your friend in the workshop. -Jim in Green Bay.
I wish I thought about putting two small holees in the foil as opposed to ripping it right out. Also, if you're interested I could send you a 3D printed spacer for your Odyssey battery.
Did you have any issues with the ebc shoes in the rear brake? I tried a set and for some reason, it held the rotor way to tightly without any brake pressure. Put on a set of bmw OEM and did not have the issue. Neither of the shoes looked bent, the rotors were with in spec. No problem with the caliper.. The EBC fronts were fine.
+Drop Tine No issues for me. I have noticed that when applying the front brakes, theres a distinct "sandpaper" sound. That's my only complaint, no issues otherwise.
Hi, Just wondering, the manual says that the ABS model cannot be flushed, air trapped in the system will result in failure..? My bike is also a 2009 model and I would like to do a calliper rebuild/ brake fluid change (front only). Can you advise on this? Thank you
+Oliver I heard the same things, and was pretty reluctant to do a fluid flush. What I came up with is the SERVO assisted ABS brakes can't be flushed by the layman...requires the special equipment at your BMW dealership. How do you know if your brakes are servo assisted? When you apply them, there's a distinct "whining" sound. You'll know immediately. IIRC, the servo assisted brakes were discontinued in 2007 or so. Hope that helps! Good luck.
+Chris Johnston Thanks for the info. I have now rebuilt the rear caliper and flushed the brake fluid in no time, brake works as it should. Surprisingly easy job. Cheers
6000 mile service $330 same dealer ,bleed brakes $170 uh ???.His response to why so expensive compared to service thats what we charge .I'll do it myself thank you.
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IT would be great if you make a video of what to check before riding. Breaks and how the must look like to be secure, apropiate tire pressure, lights etc. I have a 2007 BMW 1200RT. Great video, thanks.
Hello Johnston- nice video- I ask you- can this Brake Fluid flush procedure can be done on Brakes with ABS BMW models too? for example on model R1200R of year 2006, Thank you-
Yes you can bleed your own servo assisted brakes. It just has a couple extra steps.
Hi i had a 06 r1200rt with servo brakes and i did my own brake bleed all you need is a special funnel which i made ..
What fuse block do you have sitting on your battery? I'm looking for one like that!
AND pull the rear brake slider pins, clean and lube!
Good point, I forgot to mention that but it should definitely be included!
I have an older servo brake model. You can perform all the brake bleed procedures yourself but it is a pain.
Great video! Do you mind posting the brake pad part numbers, I have a 2009 also. Thxs
Have been looking for mirrors like those what is the brand/source? Thanks
Hello Chris- Nice video- I want to get one Flush Pump- how correct do I have to call it- so I can order one? Thank you Chris .
no need to clean the pistons with brake fluid before putting new pads in?
I would like to offer a simpler and even cheaper, and dare I say better way to do this, which is the old fashioned way.
1. Put your 8mm (closed end!) wrench on the bleeder. Put a clear plastic hose on the nipple, going UPHILL for at least a little bit. I put my catch jar on something, say a 5 gallon bucket, then my hose makes a U shape. UP from the nipple, over and down into my catch jar. Hope that makes sense. (We also don't need 10 minutes of video to convey something that can be written in a few clear sentences.)
2. Fill the reservoir with new fluid and then do the old sequence: Squeeze the lever/pedal, crack the wrench open, watch some fluid come out, close the wrench, release the lever/pedal. Squeeze, crack, close, release. Repeat.
3. Keep the fluid topped up, note how much it goes down each squeeze-crack-close-release cycle so you can predict when to add more fluid before the level reaches the bottom and lets air in. (The holes in a reservoir are VERY small, and it's difficult to get the air out so make darn sure they are ALWAYS covered in fluid.)
4. When the fluid coming out of the nipple looks new - very light colored - you are done.
* The point is IF the hose goes uphill, there is no way to get air in the system. Subsequent cycles will push the fluid up and over into your jar.
5. When done, lower the catch jar off the bucket so the hose goes DOWNHILL without falling off the nipple, all the fluid slowly drains out, disconnect it. Not a single drop spilled!
* Vacuum is "less good" cuz it tends to pull air through the threads of the bleeder nipple. Also "less good" cuz you can't see if there are air bubbles coming out with the fluid, WHICH IS THE VERY IMPORTANT. Also "less-good" cuz it's a waste of money and makes an unnecessary mess. And DON'T use an electric impact driver on small screws like brake caliper pins. Jeez. FEEL the threads to learn if all is well or they are corroded, etc.
So, skip the silly vacuum bleeder. PUSH the fluid out UPHILL with the lever/pedal. Examine the fluid as it slowly flows into your upward hose for color and air bubbles.
BONUS TIP: on your nice new brake fluid bottle with the foil seal: Don't remove the seal. Slice the seal with a knife across the opening. Pour with the slit vertical. The fluid will pour out very slowly and in an easy to control fashion. No need to glug out fluid all over the place. Good luck. Learn to make simple physics your friend in the workshop. -Jim in Green Bay.
I wish I thought about putting two small holees in the foil as opposed to ripping it right out.
Also, if you're interested I could send you a 3D printed spacer for your Odyssey battery.
How did you spread the brakes apart so quick?
Did you have any issues with the ebc shoes in the rear brake? I tried a set and for some reason, it held the rotor way to tightly without any brake pressure. Put on a set of bmw OEM and did not have the issue. Neither of the shoes looked bent, the rotors were with in spec. No problem with the caliper.. The EBC fronts were fine.
+Drop Tine No issues for me. I have noticed that when applying the front brakes, theres a distinct "sandpaper" sound. That's my only complaint, no issues otherwise.
Hi, Just wondering, the manual says that the ABS model cannot be flushed, air trapped in the system will result in failure..? My bike is also a 2009 model and I would like to do a calliper rebuild/ brake fluid change (front only). Can you advise on this? Thank you
+Oliver I heard the same things, and was pretty reluctant to do a fluid flush. What I came up with is the SERVO assisted ABS brakes can't be flushed by the layman...requires the special equipment at your BMW dealership. How do you know if your brakes are servo assisted? When you apply them, there's a distinct "whining" sound. You'll know immediately. IIRC, the servo assisted brakes were discontinued in 2007 or so. Hope that helps! Good luck.
+Chris Johnston
Thanks for the info. I have now rebuilt the rear caliper and flushed the brake fluid in no time, brake works as it should. Surprisingly easy job. Cheers
6000 mile service $330 same dealer ,bleed brakes $170 uh ???.His response to why so expensive compared to service thats what we charge .I'll do it myself thank you.