I love how i got from never holding a screwdriver to having a giant arsenal of tools and learning every maintenance job needed for my car and bike through RUclips because no one wanted to teach me. Everybody would offer to do it but nobody would let me do it myself. Thanks Ari for teaching a whole generation how to work on their own machines.
That's a great sentiment. I am sure everyone agrees that we can do anything, we just need the tools and the know-how. But Ari has a very special talent of explaining things in terms we can all understand without making the task sound intimidating.
This is probably the best video I've seen on Nissin brake calliper removal and basic maintenance. Having said that, just know that your bike brakes, like your car brakes, will tell you when they need to be replaced. Never hurts to replace them early, but don't panic and stop riding because your pads look thin. They'll squeal like a pig to tell you when it's really time to replace them.
Very informative video! I always tell people to learn as much as the possibly can on their own. For one you will save a lot of money, two you can’t always trust just any old shop, three you can the knowledge and know what to look for, four the satisfaction of knowing you did it on your own and you did it right! Love these videos guys, Keep it up! 😄🙌🏻
Yeah nothing's more annoying than taking your bike to a shop because you want it done by professionals only to realize you know more than they do and I don't know much.
I love that you mentioned the trick of using a screw driver and the old pads to push back the pistons! I've never seen this mentioned in other videos, but this is really a good trick, and I use it personally.
I always like to tape an empty beer or soda can in-between the brake lever and the handle bar to make certain that I don't inadvertently squeeze the brake lever while servicing the front brake. Also, it is very important to replace the brake fluid every two years (minimum) regardless of mileage on the bike. This will prevent expensive repairs due to corrosion in the brake system. Thanks for another great SM video!
Had an idiot who squeezed my brake lever (during a tire change) and it was a nightmare getting everything back together again. Your comment is SPON ON, thanks
Changing fluid with each new set of pads is not necessary. The main thing that makes old fluid unfit for use is the water that accumulates there, which is why the age of the fluid is most important. It is advisable to decrease this period with heavy use (e.g. racetrack).
That would be excessive unless you rarely ride, or have been under utilizing your brakes. Either of these cases could lead to a problem of several years accumulating on the brake fluid between brake pad changes.
@@SportbikerNZ yes your right, but for a few dollars you know that the fluid is fresh. It is more so if you cannot remember the last time you did change it as part of your regular services. Not everyone uses sintered pads, also different riding styles play a factor. i know myself if i can see that traffic has stopped i will use the gearbox to slow down and only use the brakes if need be at the end, but i hate stopping in traffic so does my air cooled bikes...
Good video and quite comprehensive. However, the hang pin can and will wear out over time. Most manufactures have intervals for pin replacement. If the pin becomes really pitted or if you see a flat spot where the pad rests, change out the pin. They are usually under $10 so it’s cheap insurance. Also, no mention on how corrosive brake fluid is. When you push the pistons back into the caliper it pushes fluid into the res which can cause splash. I will take the lid and the rubber seal off the res and then just place it back on top. This will allow air to escape the res as the fluid fills it back up. It’s also a good idea to wrap shop rags around the res just in case. If you do get brake fluid on anything especially painted surfaces. Clean it immediately. Most brake fluids will eat paint.
I changed the brake pads on my 2013 Honda CB1000R today, both front and rear - and after coming back home I opened youtube and saw this video on my homepage. It's a good guide to go back to, even for experienced DIYers like me. Good one, team!
I always dreaded touching anything on my bike and now i am getting more confident and found out it's not as difficult as i thought it will be. Thank you so much man.
I started with absolute zero mechanical skills and tools age 19. I'm 42 now and have a respectable set of tools from only working on my bikes as well as a thorough understanding of the machine I'm operating. I highly recommend it as a side hobby to the hobby as there's no better satisfaction and security to knowing every last item in your bike has been inspected and tested by you.
@@Kraken9911 definitely my aim is to 100% do all of the work on the bike myself. It’s always nice to hear somebody managed to learn much later in life and are completely fine. Hopefully ill be in your place someday
You know? I am not very mechanically inclined. I can do some work and install stuff, but this type of work is a bit above my pay grade. I am glad this content exist with the very specific experienced tips Ari provides. If I ever have to do it, I know where to look for info.
I did put goop on the back of my rear brake pad and it eliminated the horrible noise when i drag rear brake in parking lots. I don’t care if it gets dirty, that sound was such a nuisance! lol
Good video. Videos from DelBoy’s Garage and Stuart Fillingham are also good for cross reference. Given that brakes are the most important component of any moving vehicle, I would note a few suggestions: First, the reservoir cap should not be opened. Brake fluid is highly homophilic and hygroscopic and will suck moisture, potentially compromising the entire system. Second, don’t bleed fluid. Assuming that the fluid was set properly, bleeding any amount will lessen braking performance. If the pistons are too hard to push back, get a cheap brake kit designed to do this. Third, might as well flush the fluid. Yes, every two years is the norm but why not at the same time - it’s the most critical aspect of the system. Last, if using Simple Green, get the purple version to avoid corroding alloys/aluminum and rinse thoroughly.
It is worth noting that on some ABS-equipped bikes you may need to push the pistons on the calliper back by opening the bleed-bolt on the calliper, and not up the brake system, since the ABS pump will work as a one-way valve... Ask me how I know =P... Reading the manual gave me the answer for that one =)
just changed my front pads today, one set was oil soaked from a leaking fork, fixed that as well in the fall, i’m gonna replace the rotors and rebuild the calipers and change the fluid again then rebuilt the rear caliper and put new pads on last april when i replaced my tires 😎
Be careful with all the fasteners of course. But those reservoir screws are NOT going to be a Phillips. They are likely going to be JIS, which look very similar. You'll be surprised at the difference when you actually fit the JIS bit vs the Phillips bit in that screw. The JIS screws are identified with a little dot on the head of the screw. Hopefully this helps!
thanks for the advise! i think at some time or other I have made every mistake you mentioned including poping a car piston out...that never went back and i ended up buying a new caliper. your no grease idea is interesting, dont think ive heard that before but makes sense
Probably need to do my car 250r soon. Want to get a faster bike but can't afford it. Thanks for the info and demonstration. This channel helps me a lot
Salamun Brother… Jazakallahu khairan… Your demo and explaination solved my dizziness… I”ve screwed by a culprit (fake mechanics)… Need to get whole new set of disc brake set… 👌😌😉
Please do a video on things like fluids, oils and grease that goes beyond engine oil and radiator fluid, what should be used where. E.g., if I'm to oil a clutch cable...what oil should I use? What grease should I use on what bolts? Where should I be using loctite?
You forgot to check for air bubbles in the circuit, wich are pretty common to appear after you push the pistons back in place. I'd say bleeding the circuit is a must after every pad change.
Good video. Just note that at 3:25 you have the caliper hanging off the brake hose. Not a good idea, better to secure it with a rag or thin rope as not to put stress on the hose.
Ari, Great video, a couple of things to note. Antilock brake systems don't like dirty fluid, open the bleeder when you compress the pistons back into the caliper. Cleaners like Simple Green are mildly corrosive to aluminum alloy parts, be sure to rinse them with fresh water when you're done.
Good informative video as always, good to note that just pushing the pots back in with out cleaning can lead to leaky o-rings. I've looked around and couldn't find rebuild kits. Thanks for the Kershaw code, just placed an order.
Nice video. I like how you showed your JIS screwdriver (made by Vessel, good brand! ) the screws for the brake reservoir are not Philips! So many of those screws get knackered by guys using Philips.
Try a C Clamp for pushing calipers back, This is fine for non ABS breaks, If ABS do not push fluid back up into system, open blead screw prior to pushing calipers back so old fluid is bled of. Close bleed screw refill reservoir with fresh fluid. then pump brake, then use procedure to bleed brakes. Fluid is cheep.
My understanding of seating new brake pads begins with installing the new brake pads into the caliper and screwing the caliper bolts in leaving approximately 2-3mm of space so the bolt head is not touching the caliper. Once you are ready to torque the caliper down, to gently squeeze and hold the brake lever, seating the caliper, pistons, and rotor disc. Then torque down the bolts so they are all in harmony. Is this true or no?
Great instructional video, well done and thanks for sharing!! Amateur question pls. Is it ok to use the soapy water on the pistons, will it not remove the grease and cause more corrosion? Thanks for the reply. 👍
Ari I am sure a lot of effort had gone through making this video and it was pretty awesome, and I got to know about something that I never really paid any attention to. However “penetrating lube” 😂😂😂😂😂!
I totally agree about not putting grease on the back of the brake pads. Talk about gumming up your Pistons with dirt. I've seen many tutorials telling you to do that. It might be okay if you're a pro Rider and your bike gets broke down and tuned after every race.
I don't agree with the greaseless. I personally recommend at least a thin film application, very conservative. Grease prevents any metal from being stripped or shaved. Anyway, ride safe, god bless u.
Hey, thanks for this video. Can I please ask, what clear screen is that attached to the stock white one? I need one of these for my 250XR. Many thanks, Nathan.
hello! thanks for your nice words. For my fzs 153cc (fazer byson) carburetor bike, company manual book recommended 20w50 grade engine oil, but I used 10w40 due to unavailability of reputed company's oil like mobil1, motul, liquimoly etc. . Will it be a problem? What should I do? My odo is nearly 60000 KM. I live in a tropical monsoon-type climate, with a hot and rainy summer and a dry winter.
i can never find out why but on all dirt bikes and atvs I've had the brake material shears off the backing plate . non of my road bikes though. most people hit the trails carrying spare brake leavers. i carry spare brake pads
How does one determine whether his pads need replacing, or his brake fluid/line need attention? My rear braking on my 2018 Grom feels "uneven"... Please advise, thanks
I'll have to try no grease next time. I'm more of the type. More is more better. Haven't had issues yet. But my piston/pad area is usually pretty grimey.
SOOOOO, I totally just squeezed those brake pistons down until they hit the calipers with the brake off. Cant seem to get them to back off. Gonna try a bench vice. Any tips for this situation?
Great video! I’m curious if that windscreen on the 230l is a homemade job or if it was bought from a company, I’ve been trying to find a professionally made windscreen for my 230l but nobody seems to make one
First, check the rotor surfaces, make sure they are flat and even with the new pads. Most squeaks are due to the pads vibrating, the pistons are not being apply evenly across the pads underside; inspect pistons to make sure they are working properly. Worse case, rebuild calipers will solve all squeaks. Ride safe, god bless u.
I love how i got from never holding a screwdriver to having a giant arsenal of tools and learning every maintenance job needed for my car and bike through RUclips because no one wanted to teach me. Everybody would offer to do it but nobody would let me do it myself. Thanks Ari for teaching a whole generation how to work on their own machines.
You're welcome, and congrats on gaining a bunch of new skills. They'll serve you for the rest of your life.
You said it best
That's a great sentiment. I am sure everyone agrees that we can do anything, we just need the tools and the know-how. But Ari has a very special talent of explaining things in terms we can all understand without making the task sound intimidating.
Where do you live? I was in the same boat as a kid. Now I have so many tools and knowledge to share
Austria and you?
Despite already knowing how to change my brake pads I still watch this video as if I din't. As always informative and entretaining.
This is a most useful channel for bike lovers who like to maintain their ride.
This is probably the best video I've seen on Nissin brake calliper removal and basic maintenance. Having said that, just know that your bike brakes, like your car brakes, will tell you when they need to be replaced. Never hurts to replace them early, but don't panic and stop riding because your pads look thin. They'll squeal like a pig to tell you when it's really time to replace them.
Very informative video! I always tell people to learn as much as the possibly can on their own. For one you will save a lot of money, two you can’t always trust just any old shop, three you can the knowledge and know what to look for, four the satisfaction of knowing you did it on your own and you did it right! Love these videos guys, Keep it up! 😄🙌🏻
Doing it yourself and knowing it's done right is worth a lot. That's why we make these vids. Thanks for watching!
Yeah nothing's more annoying than taking your bike to a shop because you want it done by professionals only to realize you know more than they do and I don't know much.
Thank you for teaching people how to change their breaks. I'll be changing mine this coming weekend.
I love that you mentioned the trick of using a screw driver and the old pads to push back the pistons! I've never seen this mentioned in other videos, but this is really a good trick, and I use it personally.
I always like to tape an empty beer or soda can in-between the brake lever and the handle bar to make certain that I don't inadvertently squeeze the brake lever while servicing the front brake. Also, it is very important to replace the brake fluid every two years (minimum) regardless of mileage on the bike. This will prevent expensive repairs due to corrosion in the brake system. Thanks for another great SM video!
Had an idiot who squeezed my brake lever (during a tire change) and it was a nightmare getting everything back together again. Your comment is SPON ON, thanks
Also as a good habit/general rule of thumb...bleed the brakes with fresh fluid...or at the absolute minimum check your brake fuild and lines...
8888i8
Changing fluid with each new set of pads is not necessary. The main thing that makes old fluid unfit for use is the water that accumulates there, which is why the age of the fluid is most important. It is advisable to decrease this period with heavy use (e.g. racetrack).
That would be excessive unless you rarely ride, or have been under utilizing your brakes. Either of these cases could lead to a problem of several years accumulating on the brake fluid between brake pad changes.
@@SportbikerNZ yes your right, but for a few dollars you know that the fluid is fresh. It is more so if you cannot remember the last time you did change it as part of your regular services. Not everyone uses sintered pads, also different riding styles play a factor.
i know myself if i can see that traffic has stopped i will use the gearbox to slow down and only use the brakes if need be at the end, but i hate stopping in traffic so does my air cooled bikes...
Good video and quite comprehensive. However, the hang pin can and will wear out over time. Most manufactures have intervals for pin replacement. If the pin becomes really pitted or if you see a flat spot where the pad rests, change out the pin. They are usually under $10 so it’s cheap insurance. Also, no mention on how corrosive brake fluid is. When you push the pistons back into the caliper it pushes fluid into the res which can cause splash. I will take the lid and the rubber seal off the res and then just place it back on top. This will allow air to escape the res as the fluid fills it back up. It’s also a good idea to wrap shop rags around the res just in case. If you do get brake fluid on anything especially painted surfaces. Clean it immediately. Most brake fluids will eat paint.
I wish more people talked about how corrosive brake fluid is. I once spilt a few drop on a volt monitor. Ate through the display rather quickly!
I wish the pros at the shop I took my Diavel into kept this in mind. The paint on my reservoirs has been eaten off by overflowing brake fluid.
I changed the brake pads on my 2013 Honda CB1000R today, both front and rear - and after coming back home I opened youtube and saw this video on my homepage.
It's a good guide to go back to, even for experienced DIYers like me.
Good one, team!
just bought some new pads and will be changing mine out tomorrow for the first time. Thanks for the helpful tips and knowledge!
Don't forget to put the cap back on the reservoir before that test ride! Good video.
I must say this video has posted right when my rear brake pads have worn out! Talk about perfect timing aha!
I always dreaded touching anything on my bike and now i am getting more confident and found out it's not as difficult as i thought it will be. Thank you so much man.
I started with absolute zero mechanical skills and tools age 19. I'm 42 now and have a respectable set of tools from only working on my bikes as well as a thorough understanding of the machine I'm operating. I highly recommend it as a side hobby to the hobby as there's no better satisfaction and security to knowing every last item in your bike has been inspected and tested by you.
@@Kraken9911 definitely my aim is to 100% do all of the work on the bike myself. It’s always nice to hear somebody managed to learn much later in life and are completely fine. Hopefully ill be in your place someday
My Vstrom doesn't even have 2000 miles on it, but I still like watching these videos. Love this series!
I've changed pads before, but this was a nice refresher course, thx Ari. brap braaaap!
Another excellent and informative Shop Manual. Unfortunately, we have very different definitions of "easy" -- as I'm pretty inept mechanically.
You know? I am not very mechanically inclined. I can do some work and install stuff, but this type of work is a bit above my pay grade. I am glad this content exist with the very specific experienced tips Ari provides. If I ever have to do it, I know where to look for info.
Ari, simply put, I Love You Man,,, thank you for so so many valuable skills. I've been a fan of yours for ?? over 30 years ??? bro,,,
I did put goop on the back of my rear brake pad and it eliminated the horrible noise when i drag rear brake in parking lots. I don’t care if it gets dirty, that sound was such a nuisance! lol
Good video. Videos from DelBoy’s Garage and Stuart Fillingham are also good for cross reference. Given that brakes are the most important component of any moving vehicle, I would note a few suggestions:
First, the reservoir cap should not be opened. Brake fluid is highly homophilic and hygroscopic and will suck moisture, potentially compromising the entire system.
Second, don’t bleed fluid. Assuming that the fluid was set properly, bleeding any amount will lessen braking performance. If the pistons are too hard to push back, get a cheap brake kit designed to do this.
Third, might as well flush the fluid. Yes, every two years is the norm but why not at the same time - it’s the most critical aspect of the system.
Last, if using Simple Green, get the purple version to avoid corroding alloys/aluminum and rinse thoroughly.
It is worth noting that on some ABS-equipped bikes you may need to push the pistons on the calliper back by opening the bleed-bolt on the calliper, and not up the brake system, since the ABS pump will work as a one-way valve... Ask me how I know =P... Reading the manual gave me the answer for that one =)
WOW thats so good to known. My bike has ABS and about to do my first pad swap so your timing perfect. Thanks again.
I have learned alot from you, and I look forward to learning more Thak you.
You should put thread locker on the calipers mounting bolts
just changed my front pads today, one set was oil soaked from a leaking fork, fixed that as well
in the fall, i’m gonna replace the rotors and rebuild the calipers and change the fluid again then
rebuilt the rear caliper and put new pads on last april when i replaced my tires 😎
Be careful with all the fasteners of course. But those reservoir screws are NOT going to be a Phillips. They are likely going to be JIS, which look very similar.
You'll be surprised at the difference when you actually fit the JIS bit vs the Phillips bit in that screw. The JIS screws are identified with a little dot on the head of the screw.
Hopefully this helps!
One of my best investment was a set of JIS screwdrivers,
thanks for the advise! i think at some time or other I have made every mistake you mentioned including poping a car piston out...that never went back and i ended up buying a new caliper. your no grease idea is interesting, dont think ive heard that before but makes sense
Probably need to do my car 250r soon. Want to get a faster bike but can't afford it. Thanks for the info and demonstration. This channel helps me a lot
Salamun Brother… Jazakallahu khairan…
Your demo and explaination solved my dizziness… I”ve screwed by a culprit (fake mechanics)… Need to get whole new set of disc brake set… 👌😌😉
Please do a video on things like fluids, oils and grease that goes beyond engine oil and radiator fluid, what should be used where. E.g., if I'm to oil a clutch cable...what oil should I use? What grease should I use on what bolts? Where should I be using loctite?
You forgot to check for air bubbles in the circuit, wich are pretty common to appear after you push the pistons back in place. I'd say bleeding the circuit is a must after every pad change.
I literally just searched for the Motorcycle Mag video this week. What timing.
Some great tips in there, thanks for posting.
Good video. Just note that at 3:25 you have the caliper hanging off the brake hose. Not a good idea, better to secure it with a rag or thin rope as not to put stress on the hose.
Dude your videos are so ducking good man really great channel
Very nice tips!!
Greetings from Portugal 😉✌️
Gr8 vid. I often change brake fluids when changing pads; habit forming. The rotors, every other time. Anyway, ride safe, god bless u.
Enter to win a free Kershaw pocket knife here: a.pgtb.me/W6wfPG
Learn more about your bike’s brakes from Ari’s Common Tread article! rvz.la/3JTJltt
Ari, Great video, a couple of things to note. Antilock brake systems don't like dirty fluid, open the bleeder when you compress the pistons back into the caliper. Cleaners like Simple Green are mildly corrosive to aluminum alloy parts, be sure to rinse them with fresh water when you're done.
Thanks Ari you are the best! My V-Strom has new pads and drivetrain thanks to you.
I swear y’all release these the day after I think I should do something. So helpful. And just a little creepy.
Perfect timing! I just ordered some new front pads for my bike. Thanks for making this vid 👊🏽
Ari is the best mechanic to have ever lived.
Good informative video as always, good to note that just pushing the pots back in with out cleaning can lead to leaky o-rings. I've looked around and couldn't find rebuild kits. Thanks for the Kershaw code, just placed an order.
Enjoy the new knife and thanks for the support. 🙌
Very thorough indeed. I always learn a few things, thanks for the upload!
Nice video. I like how you showed your JIS screwdriver (made by Vessel, good brand! ) the screws for the brake reservoir are not Philips! So many of those screws get knackered by guys using Philips.
Try a C Clamp for pushing calipers back, This is fine for non ABS breaks, If ABS do not push fluid back up into system, open blead screw prior to pushing calipers back so old fluid is bled of. Close bleed screw refill reservoir with fresh fluid. then pump brake, then use procedure to bleed brakes. Fluid is cheep.
Ive learned so much, and saved alot of money, from watching your videos, theyre really well made. Thanks so much for all your work and knowledge!
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
My understanding of seating new brake pads begins with installing the new brake pads into the caliper and screwing the caliper bolts in leaving approximately 2-3mm of space so the bolt head is not touching the caliper. Once you are ready to torque the caliper down, to gently squeeze and hold the brake lever, seating the caliper, pistons, and rotor disc. Then torque down the bolts so they are all in harmony. Is this true or no?
I’ve doing the lazy method all this time, just because I did not know better… thanks for the video.
i agree with not needing to use disc break quiet grease etc. If you got a clean caliper you get no squeaks.
Awesome informative vid sir! Guys like u producing vids like these save guys like me $$$. Thanx again!
I love this series, please keep going
Thank you for the great video always a pleasure to watch even tho its straight foward. Thanks😁
Super easy job on most bikes.
You can use a C clamp to crush in those pistons. Did you mention to put back brake cap???
Plenty of great little tips
also a good time to replace and bleed the fluid. It's quick and easy and you're already messing with the brakes anyway.
Great instructional video, well done and thanks for sharing!! Amateur question pls. Is it ok to use the soapy water on the pistons, will it not remove the grease and cause more corrosion? Thanks for the reply. 👍
OMG never thought about your very clever way to mesure disc thickness, i feel dumb now having bought a micrometer for this purpose....
A micrometer is the right way to measure a brake disc.
Great stuff . Keep this stuff up helps alot 😊
Ari I am sure a lot of effort had gone through making this video and it was pretty awesome, and I got to know about something that I never really paid any attention to.
However “penetrating lube” 😂😂😂😂😂!
I totally agree about not putting grease on the back of the brake pads. Talk about gumming up your Pistons with dirt. I've seen many tutorials telling you to do that. It might be okay if you're a pro Rider and your bike gets broke down and tuned after every race.
I don't agree with the greaseless. I personally recommend at least a thin film application, very conservative. Grease prevents any metal from being stripped or shaved. Anyway, ride safe, god bless u.
Waiting for more DIY shop manual videos💥❤️
I love these videos, please keep making them!
Easier than I thought. Very informative 👏
I just swapped yesterday to sintered pads 😎
As always another great video ❤️🙏
Another great video. Have a great day everyone.
How about going into bleeding the brakes too? That might be a good Shop Manual. More intimidating than it is difficult.
Hey, thanks for this video. Can I please ask, what clear screen is that attached to the stock white one? I need one of these for my 250XR. Many thanks, Nathan.
thank you very much for the detailed step by step illustration, liked it a lot!!!
i was very sad when the mc garage guy left but ive found him again!
hello! thanks for your nice words. For my fzs 153cc (fazer byson) carburetor bike, company manual book recommended 20w50 grade engine oil, but I used 10w40 due to unavailability of reputed company's oil like mobil1, motul, liquimoly etc. . Will it be a problem? What should I do? My odo is nearly 60000 KM. I live in a tropical monsoon-type climate, with a hot and rainy summer and a dry winter.
Good stuff as always. Thanks y’all
i can never find out why but on all dirt bikes and atvs I've had the brake material shears off the backing plate . non of my road bikes though. most people hit the trails carrying spare brake leavers. i carry spare brake pads
Can u make a video on shelf life of engine oils
Don’t forget to put the lid back on your fluid reservoir. 😉
How does one determine whether his pads need replacing, or his brake fluid/line need attention?
My rear braking on my 2018 Grom feels "uneven"...
Please advise, thanks
I'll have to try no grease next time.
I'm more of the type. More is more better. Haven't had issues yet. But my piston/pad area is usually pretty grimey.
Never go greaseless, just apply thin film or very conservative portion. Grease prevents any metal from being stripped or shaved.
When you clean the caliper with let's say soapy water, do you rinse it with clean water somehow after?
unreal,i replaced my front gsxr ones this morning!!!!!!!!
Chrisfix used Copper Anti Seize for the sliding area
Jebus, Zach is fucking RIPPED these days!
Oh, and yeah, this is one of the best brake tutorials out there.
Nice tips! Thanks for the video.
Always find your tutorials very helpful. Thank you👍
SOOOOO, I totally just squeezed those brake pistons down until they hit the calipers with the brake off. Cant seem to get them to back off. Gonna try a bench vice. Any tips for this situation?
So once you've replaced the pads and pumped the brakes. How much should new pads rub? I'm always confused as to how much rubbing is too much.
Great video, my bike got ~1500km but its front brakes are still squeaking. I can now take the break pad thingy out for a scrub.
Try putting some grease on the *backs* of the pads. Clean the brake disks thoroughly. Do not touch the friction material. Good luck✌
Can't unhear ChrisFix, "Soapy Water."
Great video! I’m curious if that windscreen on the 230l is a homemade job or if it was bought from a company, I’ve been trying to find a professionally made windscreen for my 230l but nobody seems to make one
That one was from BajaWorx
Those arms tho. Legend says when he needs to stop he just grabs the earth.
When should one change the pads approximately?
amazing vid thanks ari
Most excellent and thorough👍
Is this same process for radial mounted 4 piston caliper
Yup!
Great video very informative thanks! What do you do of you get it all back together but the new pads squeak or squeal while stopping?
First, check the rotor surfaces, make sure they are flat and even with the new pads. Most squeaks are due to the pads vibrating, the pistons are not being apply evenly across the pads underside; inspect pistons to make sure they are working properly. Worse case, rebuild calipers will solve all squeaks. Ride safe, god bless u.
Is it normal for the brakes to be a spongy once you replace both pads and rotors? I guess since I just did it they still haven't broken in.
Is dishwashing liquid mixed with water okay for cleaning?