Cleaning Motorcycle Brake Calipers in 5 Easy Steps
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2021
- www.DaveMossTuning.com
Brake caliper performance, and lack thereof, is far more noticeable on a motorcycle than an automobile. With a little effort you can keep your brake calipers clean and performance ready. 
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The last bit of aligning the calliper was very helpful. Thank you very much.
Any kind that you would use to clean plates and kitchen utensils.
I learn something new from every video. I also learn what I've been doing wrong all these years. Nice to be able to see how a professional does it. Much appreciated.
Dawn dish soap used in the kitchen
how fitting it is to see the calipers being clean with a toothbrush :))) i'll explain: i speak portuguese and in my native language calipers are called "maxilas" which means jaws. love your videos mr. moss they are very helpful.
Makes perfect sense. In the UK if we have problems with our jaw/teeth/nose we go to see a maxillofacial doctor. Now back to the callipers.
@@S3dINS absolutely no need for the sarcasm
@@sambyf2445 he’s not being sarcastic. That is the name for that type of dentistry
@@g-sailing4427 just looked it up. I clearly went into the wrong industry.
Great comparison of brake caliper jaws to maxilla...teeth and gums continue the life force with careful gum and tooth care, just as braking reliance supports life enjoyment with careful cleaning of highly machined and polished surfaces of seals, pistons and pads. Very interesting detail when mounting assemblies with method of attaining final torque values! Adding a dial indicator to measure disc flex might prove interesting, too. 😮
Instant sub. That last tip about centering the calipers is something I had never thought about.
Thanks for subbing! Welcome :)
Hi Dave, thanks for your help. Now I solved my issues and cleaned up the break calipers as you explained. It breaks now much better than before.
Great news and thanks for giving that "retired" toothbrush new purpose!
Just did it yesterday and now I find this. Thank you!
I use a thin wide tyre lever flat (no twisting) between the piston and the backing plate of the pad to avoid damaging the friction surface of the pads.
Thank you very much man very, very useful I'll be cleaning mine tomorrow wow thanks again I was doing something totally wrong by not aligning the pads properly
This is knowledge ya won’t find unless u have lived it. Thanks again.
I like to use wood shims , the type a carpenter uses to level and align a door frame. Just put one in each way and push them toward each other. The pads and pistons will be pushed back and there is no chance of the wood scarring the pad surface.
@seniorrider9337 Agreed and I also like to use a 1/4"-5/16" piece of ply (or equiv) and place where the pads would go then send the pistons out as far as possible without pushing them all the way, remove the spacer and then clean the pistons (I use a shoe lace or thin cloth to get behind the pistons) .... no faffing about with pushing each out. Use nice red rubber grease before pushing pistons back in then clean up excess grease. Remember to lubricate the slider/spring pad so pads will float nicely. Good job dun.
i learned how to tighten the Calipers Today properly
Me too. I saw that. And said. Learn something new today haha 🤣
Ditto
Same as on my mtb
Thank you, I have the same brembo's and didn't know that alignment tip.
That alignment method, so important but so easily overlooked. Great Vid as always 😎
most calipers (including other variants of the Brembo M4) have locating dowels, making alignment not necessary or even possible. If your calipers don't have dowels, then yeah it's a good idea...
Absolutely unnecessary. That's an old method based on ancient bikes where non-floating brake calipers were installed. Last 15 years old bikes, at least, don't need any trick before tightening brake caliper bolts.
@@rob1227 if its good enough for suspension set up teams on the Pro racing circuit, then it's good enough for me. Thanks for your comment 🙂
@@silky5366 if your calipers have dowels then your achieving nothing with the alignment. If they don’t like Dave’s MV then yeah it’s a good idea. The HP4 with the identical M4 calipers uses dowels so alignment isn’t necessary or even possible
@@Uninfluenceable Totally agree, I'm lucky and mine do have dowels. Many guys who I know race ( have older bikes ) need to be aligned in the way mentioned in the video. 👍
I also put a small block in the caliper and squeeze the pistons onto it, this exposes more of the pistons without allowing them to pop out. THEN I clean the pistons before pushing them back in.
all Videos from Dave are great 👍
During my last tyre change we didn't do the fork alignment + caliper fitment procedure as per this video and the fork alignment video. It's, literally, been giving me nightmares now even though I'm sure everything is just fine 😂
Thank you Dave! I never thought of pulling the lever while tightening, makes perfect sense, I've just done it after watching your video. What I used to do was simply pull the lever until you can feel it brakes, then tighten, but keep the lever pulled makes more sense, even though with floating discs it might never be absolutely perfect. As far as cleaning I do it like you, and also use compressed air. Thank you, just discovered your channel, I'm sure I'll find some other useful videos. One little tip for you, if I may, when I work on low part of the motorcycle I don't use a chair but I sit on the floor, that keeps my back straight and it helps in the long run, particularly if you work a lot. You probably already know this and chose the chair not to be in the way of the camera, but it's something that should be kept in mind. I'm 45, so I'm starting to look after my back as much as possible so that I can ride small sports bikes for hours without straining my muscles. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for sharing your POV and I appreciate the hint.
Good job Dave! See you in March😁
Thanks, Dave. Still hoping to see a good method to remove brake pad deposits from calipers. If that has already been filmed, please post a link. Cheers
Thx, Dave , it was very clear and helpful
Thanks for the post. Now my wife knows why I save old toothbrushes 🥳
Lol same
Excellent, can't wait to clean mine up. Kind of a scary thought I have never cleaned mine!
that's because this guy is a moron ..you don't need to do this.. ever .. if shit gets really bad you restore the calipers and install new seals .. but that's after 30 years of ownership
I had not tighten the calipers like that but now I will... I also scrub off the dirt from brake pads which have a line in them.. Then I put a bit copper grease on moving parts to stop squeaking and rattling
did not know that last part. ! Thank you!
Another great video demostration from the all knowing and powerful Oz (DM). Thank you for sharing. One question, I know brake pads will be touching or close to touching the rotor surfaces in normal operations when not applied so a full rotation or so with the front wheel lifted off the ground is normal with a hissing type sound.
However, after a short ride, say 10 miles with little brake applied, is it normal for front brake rotors to heat up so much that it is hot to the touch?
I've never paid attention before, but since it's my first time installing my front wheel/brake calipers on my 2006 CBR1000RR, just want to be safe about it. It's easy to push the bike around and there is no noise in the front while riding the bike unless I apply the brakes which then I can hear them being applied to the rotors. I reinstalled everything according to the OEM Honda Service Manual.
Thanks.
Take care.
Thank you! If the brake calipers and pistons have been cleaned with a toothbrush and soapy water, the pistons should retract even wen the rotor is hot. Therefore the wheel should spin about the same amount no matter if the rotor is hot or cold. If there is a noticeable reduction when the rotor is hot, a sticking piston might be the cause.
I use soapy water a toothbrush and a cotton shoelace. Pump the pistons slightly outwards before i start to clean and with the shoelace around the piston i pull it back and forth to clean the whole piston as on most calipers you cannot access the inside of the piston with the toothbrush. I have the same type of brembo's on my Hayabusa.
I read about the shoelace trick on another video's comments. Works great. I soak it in brake cleaner for a little extra cleaning power.
@@SquidMissile1 don’t use brake cleaner! It’s too harsh and can dry up the seals on the pistons and cause leaking. Just use dish soap as in the video.
@@cfltitan Correct me if I'm wrong, please, but aren't the back side of the seals (internal to the caliper) exposed to brake fluid continually?
That being the case, I wouldn't think that brake fluid would be too harsh on the outside of the seals.
@@SoulDaddy33 I’m talking about brake cleaner, not brake fluid. Brake fluid is fine unless it gets very old then it can become caustic.
@@cfltitan I discovered in my younger years that using dish soap while installing tires would eat the beads over time. Degrade them and cause deterioration due to its ability to remove oil. I would be curious if enough of it would do the same to piston seals? Brake clean typically causes swelling in some rubbers as does brake fluid as well over time. I learned a trick from a motorcycle mechanic who is now into his late 70's, q-tip sprayed with brake clean to clean the pistons before pushing them in. Also the shoelace only along the back of the piston surface to clean them before pushing back in. Not dripping with it so it runs down past the dust boots, enough to clean the dirt/dust/grime off the piston so when you push it in there is less risk of bringing it into the seals. I have seen some put 100k+ miles on motorcycles they just hose down the entire caliper with brake cleaner and never caused a problem with seals leaking. I prefer not to directly hose them down, but you get the idea.
Thanks for the video Dave. I've just done my calipers and this give me the confidence to do them for the first time. Although I give them a thorough going over one piston always moved out faster than the others.. should this be concerning? I kept repeatedly cleaning and pushing back in but the same piston was always moving out before the others
TIA
If one leads and wins the race for protrusion, then there's less dirt behind the dust seal. If the pistons are clean and all 4 are moving, you will be fine. Just for redundancy, zip tie that piston in place and pump out the other pistons. Use your finger nail gently - do you feel any ridge at all on the other three?
Great job ! I have Ducati 696 and I'm having issues with very heavy noise so hopefully this will work.
Check the brake pads are seated correctly and located. Also check the brake pin (if there is one) for gouging.
That's so ironic because I just cleaned my brake calipers a few hours ago using an older video of yours from about 6 years ago. Lol
Perfect timing
This is what i did last night and got a few tips now. Thank you!
Thoughts on what to lube the seals with when servicing the calipers? They usually come with red rubber grease, but I've heard people say to avoid using it and just use a little brake fluid instead
Very very small amount of rubber grease is all I have ever done for brake caliper and fork oil seals. I have never used just brake fluid only (I sure that works just fine) and found that just fork oil creates stiction fairly quickly.
On most motorcycle calipers, the piston seals are inside the caliper (not exposed) and they are lubricated with brake fluid during reassembly on a full caliper rebuild. The slide pins should be lubricated with a rubber safe brake grease (silicone based) because they travel inside a rubber boot. Some "sub slide pins" have collars--in that case you lubricate between the collar and the rubber boot. Finally, you may use any brake grease (a very very small amount as Dave said) on the brake pad "ears" ONLY where they contact the pad springs and retainers. This is to minimize grit collection. The color of the grease shouldn't be super obvious because the layer should be that thin.
Source: Honda service manuals
David a true pro,thx mate
Great vid as always dave , simple process, shame not everyone does it often enough .
Great tutorial! God bless You Mr Dave!
Now I'm not afraid of my Brembo M4.32 and brake pad change ;)
Thank you for watching! Glad you have new found confidence to get this job done once and done right!
Hey Dave, any benefits from aligning the calipers this way instead of spinning the wheel and holding the brake while tighting the bolts like in your other videos?
This is just another technique put out there to see what resonates with individuals.
Im struggling with uneven pad wear on my track-only Ninja 400. I noticed today the the side of the pad with the most wear corresponds with the piston that doesn’t extend when i pump the brake (the other piston does extend).
I just cleaned the pistons and that sticky piston still wont extend while pumping the brakes unless i hold the other one. Any other ways to fix a sticky piston? Or is it normal for only one piston to extend when pumping?
You might have to remove that piston completely to see why it is sticking. That will of course mean all the brake fluid will leak out. Then you can polish it and use brake fluid or rubber grease on the seals to correct the problem.
You're the best, much much love from 🇬🇭🇬🇭🇬🇭
Thank you for your kind words! Glad you enjoyed it.
I remember, when fitting a wheel with a drum, spinning the wheel hard then slamming on the brake, then tightening the axle. Centralised the shoes I believed.
Incidentally those callipers looked pretty good when you took them off ! Deffo not London in the rain 😎
Lol.... true that for a rainy climate and the aggregated grime! Correct on the drums, same principle to hold the wheel straight.
Dam and I just ordered a rebuild kit for my front rotors yesterday and now I see this oh well good info for the future. And only ordered the kit because I can barely get a full revolution of my front tires spinning it hard. Brakes rub I feel to much.
It is a process for sure between cleaning calipers and setting the front wheel correctly when reinstalling. ruclips.net/video/qTve7M4zOlE/видео.html
You are the best Dave!!
Thank you!
@Dave Moss Tuning I recently found your channel and I'm so glad I did. I really appreciate how you explain things clearly, slowly and in great detail. I've been wrenching motorcycles for 60 years but in my old age I am getting much more into component level repairs which means knowing how to completely disassemble sub-systems. A couple of questions if you please: I have a Harley and the rear brake has been creating a LOT of brake dust since day one. This is my third set of pads in 13 years/22k miles. I have never worn out a single set of pads in only 22k miles. So time to take the caliper off. Question: When cold and parked the pads have zero clearance from the rotor. My smallest feeler gauge is .0015. There is no brake drag that can hear or feel. I'm told this is due to "residual resistance". My front pad has a very visible gap between the rotor. I'm guessing even a tiny rotor run-out would cause the symptoms I'm seeing. Your thought? Second, I am NOT a gifted mechanic. So why is brake cleaner not appropriate for cleaning calipers? There's rubber all over the place in any brake system. I noticed you didn't blow out any crud or finish off with compressed air. How come? Your videos are great! I hope you see this and have a sec to respond. Many thanks!
Thank for your kind words. 1. Check the rear caliper for freedom of movement on the pins. Is there sufficient grease? Are the brake pins notched at all? Does the caliper move freely on the pins now or does it take a while and you need to work it? If so, that may be the cause. Rear wheel not perfectly aligned is another cause as is a rotor that is very slightly out of round. Those two need accurate measuring tools to assess. Q2: brake cleaner. It makes rubber very brittle over time. High pressure blows crud behind the dust seal where is stay trapped. Using a toothbrush and soapy water ensures you get the entire surface clean. Hope this helps!
@@catalystreactionsbw Yes, that explanation helps a LOT! Soapy water and a toothbrush it is! This has been a problem since day one and I've already found a couple of problems that were caused at the factory. So I would assume nothing about this bike is installed correctly. There's only one pin and it seems fine. I can see the pistons (2) pushing against the outside pad so the pressure seems to be coming from either two stuck pistons that stop the bike fine but won't fully retract or there is too much hydraulic brake pressure with the system idle. The inside pad is pressed tightly against the caliper frame which makes me suspicious that a shim may be needed to move the caliper housing in just a tad. I see nothing in the HD parts manual about this. The inside pad is also right up against the rotor. I hadn't thought about the wheel alignment but the drive belt tracks ok. If the wheel was out of alignment I would expect to see some space between the pad and the rotor as I rotated the wheel. Thanks so much for the brake cleaner clarification!
Nice job...👏👏👏👏
What about putting a bit of copper grease on the pads where the pistons touch the back of the brake pads so they're not squeaking? Have I been doing it wrong all these years?!
Not at all - you have been doing it your way. We each have techniques/choices that we use via experience, teaching or studying. I just present some information for you to consider, converse over or take as an action item.
Well done!😃
This is exactly what I needed. Thanks!
Great video! It’s a good idea to clean the pads too with the soapy water?
I'd say only use brake cleaner on the actual pads themselves. The friction material has a tendency to soak up liquids, especially oils.
Better just use brake cleaner. And make sure you have something to cover the floor or it'll get really messy. I am using a newspaper.
Nice, as always good advice
Also use the same caliper alignment method for my mtb works perfect.
Gonna try this to try eliminate the brake shuddering off my front brakes.
@Dave Moss Tuning Aren't brake pistons supposed to move at different rate for modulation?
Based on pressure and duration, yes. All 4 should move simultaneously.
In my calipers (SV 1000 S) I can easily remove the break pads without the need to squeeze in the pistons by just ... well, removing them (from the top). They are only held by a screw ... is this different on these Brembo ones?
Some have pins like yours, some have springs, some have tabs, some are single pads per piston. Many different designs!
I always put some rubber grease around the pistons before pushing them back and try to spen them around a little if i can, any reason you didn't do that or is this just not that in depth cleaning, but more something to do between sessions?
No reason - just trying to get riders to think about cleaning their calipers, so this is the easiest way to get them started. As experience and knowledge build, so your techniques evolve.
@@catalystreactionsbw Fair enough, thanks for the insight!
I find a thin layer of silicone grease around the piston before pushing it back into the caliper keeps them all moving more freely. However it does mean cleaning the pistons a little more frequently since that layer of grease attracts dust and dirt.
How much soap per gallon of water should I use? If the brake calipers still won't come out evenly when pressing on brake after thouroughly cleaning them, what should I do next?
I've used a piston puller (clamps to the inside of the piston) to rotate the piston, pull it out a little and clean. Worked to loosen up a frozen piston. Then some brake fluid for lube.
Hi Dave,
Any experience or thoughts on MotoMaster brake rotors? Are they any good?
I had a question can I just take the caliber off and the brake pads take them off then just pop the brake brake pads back in without having to push the pistons back in or do I have to push the pistons back in no matter what .
Depends how worn the brake pads are. If well worn, yes, pads will easily be removed.
Is there any situation where you would use Brake Free? Instead of soap / in addition to soap? Great video, BIG THANK YOU.
You can use whatever product you want to when you deep clean your calipers like this. Perhaps soap would be the initial or final step in the process depending on the products you choose.
@@catalystreactionsbw ok, thank you. Just bought a 93 BMW K bike that’s been sitting. Rear brake sticking a little.
I’m subbed and liked. Appreciate the videos.
It is not necessary to aply some kind of grease to the brake pistons after cleanning them?
I just make an exhaustive cleanning of the caliper each 6 months but do not use any grease to avoid contamination the discs or the brake pads.
Btw, what do you think about semi metalic pads for street and road use?
Great video as always !
Greetings from México !
Thank you! I try not to use grease onnthe brake pistons but use a very little amount on the oil seal when installing. Sintered/semi metallic are great pads for the street especially if you commute as you use your brakes often and need that initial bite.
I've seen people dab brake grease or silicone spray to the caliper pins to have better moving pins. It makes sense but, is this really necessary?
I see no value in it as I clean my brakes regularly with a toothbrush and soapy water. For those that never touch their brake calipers, I am sure that is helpful in some way.
I didn't have a clue about the reinstalling & alignment.
BTW: Dave Moss, do you get a chance to ride much? Do you like to ride still?
Becuz it's not required for most new brake callipers which use dowel pins.
@@pravesh736 I guess that step wouldn't apply then, however the Nissin calipers on my 2006 zx-14 as well as the Tokiko calipers on my 2004 zx-10 do not use dowel pins.
Can we hose the calipers with some water to rinse the soap off before we wipe it dry?
I dont see why not they get soaked in the rain anyway
Great idea to hold the lever on while tightening.👍
How often would you do this? I just cleaned mine last week but when would be a good time cleaning them again?
For a road/street motorcycle, every 1,500 miles or 2,000kms. If you commute daily in a wet climate every couple of months.
when they are black inside. with race pads mine get a quick flush and clean every 3-4 track days. Dave's looked pretty clean to begin with. to avoid endless cleaning with soap i hit them with old school brake cleaner first. great stuff if your state hasn't banned it and you don't mind the health and environmental impacts. the new stuff isnt much better than soap and water.
@@nosretepification Health impacts? I never considered drinking it. ;)
@@terrydietzler4096 with a little heat you can make a ww1 era chemical weapon, plus the whole cancer thing
What sort of soap? And do you prefer that over a spray brake cleaner? I enjoys that your videos aren't edited, somerthing satisfying about watching everything.
Dish soap is usually used for this kind of cleaning, it's mild and cleans very well especially in combination with warm water. Brake cleaner dries very quickly and you don't have enough time to soak the pieces you want to brush. Some say its also harsh with the rubber and will damage the piston seals.
The soap can capture the brake dust and adds a protective coating over the exposed piston. Brake clean can make rubber brittle with extensive use plus with it being high pressure from a can it can drive dirt past the dust seal.
@@rhemyis i've been using Muc Off bike cleaner, wondered if dish soap would be too harsh.
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you
Should I open my master reservoir since I’m pushing the pistons back in ?
Depends on your fluid level in the reservoir. If you at the the low point, there will be no need to remove the cap. If you are close to the top, you will need to remove fluid to the low mark, replace the cap, then proceed and once the task is completed, top off the reservoir as needed.
Hello Mr. Moss. Noticed you didn't use brake cleaner to clean the brakes. Would using brake cleaner be bad for cleaning brake calipers?
Brake cleaner apart form the high pressure hardens rubber so dust and oil seals become brittle.
I have a sticky disk at just one point of the rotation. The disks and pads are brand new, have they been installed incorrectly? Or the disk is warped? How to tell?
Take the caliper off. Spin the wheel and put a piece of card against it to watch and see if the rotor is warped. Simple, quick easy. :)
@@catalystreactionsbw my mechanic today said it was normal …
Why did you use Dave Williams' toothbrush? :D
Can you use Wd-40 to remove the initial gunk?
WD40 is a degreaser. As long as you scrub the calipers post initial clean so no WD40 gets transferred to the brake pads or rotors, it should be fine.
I understand there is some force that pushes brake pads apart so they wont touch the rotor when not engaged. How do we ensure that after dismantling and reconstruicting the braking system this force works properly as it should?
If the brake pads pins (if present) are clean and not grooved, that is the first part. Second is the all 4 pistons moved easily and freely on extension as they will retract evenly as well.
@@catalystreactionsbw im starting to understand. With brake lever unpulled the brake fluid retracts the pistons back. And the brake pad pins somehow pull apart the pads evenly as well? Planning to clean callípers as well so better to understsnd the mechanism behind it before something bad happens
@@jasicjan When the brake lever is pulled, pressure pushes the pistons out and brakes are applied. When the pressure is released, the pistons move back. When the pistons are cleaned regularly, they move much more easily and that is where the toothbrush and soapy water are important.
What's those blue paper towels called? (at least i think their made of paper?...)
shop towels.
No need to wipe the rotor with a brake cleaner soaked clean towel to remove residue or scrub pads with toothbrush and brake cleaner??
You never scrub pads that you are returning to the caliper, because they are formed to the rotor, that's why you put the pads back on the side they came out of, most important, applying anything to either surface can cause slippage, that's dangerous.
@@mal-wx6tu So you think scrubbing the surface of the pad with a tooth brush will wear it? Surely it's not that soft!
Hi dave how to best clean the bobbins on fully floating discs
Compressed air normally.
@@catalystreactionsbw thanks dave I'd seen some vids where they tightened a nut and bolt through the bobbin to make it spin and was afraid of damaging them.
What about brake parts cleaner and a brush? Do you not recommend?
I was taught by race team principles not to use it as it makes rubber brittle. So, I have followed their advice.
What brand is the wheel chock ?
It is Baxley. You can find it in my Amazon store: www.amazon.com/shop/davemosstuning?isVisitor=true
Just curious when cleaning, how come you do not remove rhe pistons to clean them thoroughly? Why leave then in?
This video shows you how to regularly clean the pistons. There is another video for complete disassembly in the Trash or Treasure series.
@@catalystreactionsbwHow often is "regularly"? Every oil change? Every 5k miles?? I am still learning and come to realize how much I really don't know. I removed my calipers, pistons, dust seals, and fluid seals because it needed it. Waiting on my ABS speed rotor to put it all back together.
@@johnnyappleseedz422 If you ride in the rain most of the time, monthly. A dry climate every 3 months. Track riding every six days
how do you clean your discs / rotors? brake cleaner? what about the "bobbins" or wtv people call them lol
why not just use breakcleen? is soap and water better? or just alternaitive?
Brake Clean products in a can will make rubber brittle over time. Soap and water leaves a film on the pistons to protect the coating AND you get the time to make sure the job is done right.
The last part ... I never knew that !!
Why don't you clean the brakes before installing them back on? I was taught to spray the pads with brake cleaner, and also brake pad lube on the back of the pad if you have it.
There are separate videos on brake caliper cleaning that are in detail. This involves a toothbrush and soapy water and 20 minutes of time, 10 per caliper.
I usually put a little special lube on the pistons - is that bad?
It can attract small dust particals and it is not good for relative motion which can cause small amount of wear. But it is not that big deal.
If you are referring to the piston face on the brake pad, no. If you are lubing the piston surface (as pointed out) you can attract dust/debris) and the hope it is that nothing gets stuck between the lip of the dust seal and piston to score it.. Regular cleaning minimizes that issue.
I like to use chain cleaner (not brake cleaner!) on the calipers as it's much stronger than soap without attacking the O-rings inside the pistons. Brake cleaner+steel wool on the discs and pads. Wipe off any remaining wool with a cloth.
So the chain cleaner will not hurt the o-rings? I’ve never done this before, but I know the chain cleaner really cleans my chain nicely.
@@Messier87_M87 yep something like www.amazon.com/Motul-103243-Chain-Cleaner-9-8/dp/B000VJPVJK?th=1
Thanks Dennis!
Good tip, but it has to be chain cleaner advertised as safe on O-rings.
@@Messier87_M87 The chain cleaner has to say it's safe on o-rings. Not all chain cleaners are safe on orings.
100 years ago we used to use copper grease on the back of the pads to keep the pads from squealing. We don't do that anymore nowadays?
Aluminum paste looks better 😉
I know that in the car industry copper grease is almost never been used anymore due to a coating on the metal part of the pads that prevents seizing up. Maybe the same with motorbike pads?
They say copper isn't good since we have ABS. Better use a ceramic grease.
It's comes copper coated
I'd still do that first if my brakes squealed. Too much nonsense talked on social media about, 'OMG, don't do that because it will.........'
What kind of soap is in the cup? Dish soap?
Dawn dish soap to be precise.
Thanks, man. :D
i had a caliper piston leak when i was pushing it back it, what went wrong?
Hello Harsha. 1. There was some debris between the dust and oil seal that cut the oil seal. 2. The oil seal was not fully seated and dragged out of position as the piston extended and when pushed back it cut the seal.
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you, also any specific soap you are using to clean the calipers?
@@harshabandreddi2632 I use soap that is used in the kitchen sink for dishes. That seems to provide the best cleaning.
This is a little off topic but I noticed your Right shock with the zip tie. Is that the most your fork travels? Thanks again for another great video
The cable tie is there to assess travel used with different rides and different pace so I can get an idea of how to set fork travel to 80% for most riding situations.
@@catalystreactionsbw thank you sir
When you have the pistons surfaces exposed on say a road bike I would have thought after the wash, there was an opportunity to use a small amount of say ATE's Brake assembly rubber grease lube, or equivalent would be beneficial for the rougher weather exposure they will get?
If you let the soap dry, it provides the same protective film and grease will collect more and bigger debris. It could therefore potentially create a greater chance of damaging the surface. Worth a try to assess after one week of riding.
All those years thinking my rotors were slightly warped, it was just me not installing the calipers correctly! 😆
Also what about cleaning the pads themselves? Monsoon riding tends to deposit shit everywhere....
I put a piece of sandpaper on a piece of glass or flat tile and manually work the pad around. Seems to work well.
What kind of soap should I use?
I personally use Dawn dish soap, so if you want to follow that Mantra, a similar product.
no wire through slotted bolts?
Only for racing and if the rider can afford the bolt kit from companies like Pro Bolt.
Dave you’re the man 👨
I only have one tooth brush.
Double duty?????
Doesn't your wife or girlfriend brush?
@@terrydietzler4096 Not dumb enough to get married.
@@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234 I was. Let me know if you change your mind. You can have mine.
@@timjohnson1199 You sir, have won the interwebs for today!
@@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234 You just need to marry "up".
What front mudguard is that 😻
On the MV, the front mudguard is the stock item.
I have been riding and maintaining for 40 years. I feel like an 8 year old kid. I am a damn fool. I can't believe that I never thought about ANY of these details!
We all start each day in a quest for knowledge gain. In this case, there isa great deal for you to look forward to. I feel foolish is incorrect, but I understand the sentiment. Thanks for watching!
2:30 in. Pads can taper at the leading edge . Whenever I remove the wheel I actually swap the pads around to keep the pad material flush to the backing plate and rotor; just keeps everything squared up.
Well done. Torque those caliper bolts. When I've finished cleaning the pistons I take a q-tip and swab a light coating of brake fluid on them.
Thank you - I appreciate you sharing your additional step.
Why are the pistons moving at different amounts?
Cuz they don't have any flat surface to align up against. Brake fluid moves pretty randomly inside the lines, you don't get perfectly even pot movement normally.
I've seen videos where people spray brake cleaner on the calipers and pads to clean them?
Sure, plenty of those videos to watch. But..... there are better ways to get this job done and for me, TLC is time well spent.
@@catalystreactionsbw Does the brake cleaner cause damage to the pistons or seals? That's my main worry!
You mention soap, what would you reccomend?
Soap used for washing dishes/plates in the kitchen.