If you use this as a website address it should add the discount automatically - snwbl.io/lanoguard/SHANAKA17034 Although, it may not work if you're applying to an already discounted product in the Black Friday sale
Great video, but your lower control arm wasn’t replaced because it was rusty, it’s because the rubber bushes deteriorate, and they replace the whole arm, rather than trying to press out the old ones, and press in new. This process might help keep the bushes hydrated and protected from elements that affect rubber? I plan to do this on a newer car, so should be a little easier
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Ah right, thank you for the info. Yes, definitely worth doing 👍🏽 If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
Hi Kev - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful. That's great - you won't regret it. I'm in the process of doing a 1 year review video so if you’ve not already, please do like this video and stay tuned for some more content 🙂
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Yes, that's my plan 👍🏽 If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
Sorry, I used dynax UC by BH not the stuff the gentleman proceeded to use, I have no experience with lanoguard but the bilt Hamber stuff is still on and working wonders after 2 years.
Hi Johnny - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful. If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
great video, clear and concise instructions. And thank you for the one year follow up. Unfortunately my 2011 Honda CR-V has rust worse than yours. Wish me luck :)
Hi Terry - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful. If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
Hi John - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful. Yea it's great, will be doing a 1 year review and top up coat this summer 👍 If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful. If you’ve not already, please do like this video and stay tuned for some more content 🙂
Great video, finally a step by step complete explanation, including how to access the car underside without special equipment. On that topic, did you do one half of the car first (prep, degrease, Hydrate, Lanoguard) or did you move the ramps from rear to front and did each phase separate?
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful. That's a great question. I did the prep and hydate 80 in one day and moved it front and rear and then did the same for the lanoguard the next sunny day. If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
@@everythinghome Seriously, Everyone don't treat the exhaust, for one thing they mostly rust from the inside out, also the extreme heat just burns off any treatments applied.
Great video! Thanks. Is there any point in treat my new car with hydrate 80, just a precausion? I’d like to do anything possible to minimize rust buildup.
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful. That's a great question, mine was a 9 year old car and had a lot of rust so hence the hydrate 80. If yours is new, I'd just use the lanoguard which is the easiest bit 👍 Don't forget you can get £5 off your order with the link below snwbl.io/lanoguard/SHANAKA17034 If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
@@everythinghome I’m from Norway so I won’t be able to buy LanoGuard, but I really do like the setup sith grease + the trigger sprayer. Wish I could get it here, everything is just aerosol cans here…
@TheFootballDude18 that's a shame, I'm not sure if buying it through Amazon may be an option. Norway looks like a lovely country. Would love to visit one day. All the best, Shan
Nice job. Did you notice any burning off of the hydrate 80 on the exhaust ? Some of these converters have a lacquer in them so they dry shiny, which I imagine would burn off on an exhaust. My only comment is you might regret using stainless bolts in regular steel threads, as it causes galvanic corrosion. I made this mistake a few years ago.
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful. I did notice a little bit of a burning smell but it didn't last long. Thanks for the advice about the steel threads. I'll have to keep an eye on them when I take them out when I change the oil. I did coat them in the lanoguard grease before putting them in too so hopefully it keeps it all well protected. Time will tell 🤞🏾 If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Yes, the bilt hamer rust converter goes black. The lanoguard cures clear. If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
Hi Lewis - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. I ended up using around 3/5ths of the bottle although the bottom of the Outlander was very rusty. A decent amount left to treat my other car which is a few years newer. If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful. Ah, you're right, thanks. I realised I'd made a mistake too on watching it back once published 🤦🏽♂️ If you’ve not already, please do like this video and stay tuned for some more content 🙂
In the longer term (2-3 years), I have to say I was a bit disappointed by the hydrate 80 on my mk1 mx5 suspension and underside. I applied it carefully after a good wire brushing with the grinder and drill etc. It dried black, and looked amazing. Lanoguard hadn’t been invented, so I used Dynax UB over the top. Sadly, a few years later, I had to take it all apart and do it properly (blasted and epoxy primed) as the rust hadn’t been ‘converted’ other than a superficial layer on the top. It grew and grew underneath and then it was possible to flake it off in chunks. As a quick fix to ‘pretty up’ a rusty car prior to selling, this stuff would be good for disingenuous people like that, but otherwise, in the long run, it wasted time delaying the inevitable. On my next project, I am going to try applying lanoguard direct, after a similar wire brushing, and see if annual top-ups help keep rust at bay. It won’t look as black and clean but that doesn’t matter if it does its job as advertised.
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. That's interesting to know. I'm just about to do a 1 year review. Mine looks pretty good after 1year but the front has held up better than the back. This year I'll just be topping up with lanoguard and making that a yearly application. If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
I'm just about to coat my type R underneath with Dynax UB, it's suppose to arrest existing corrosion. That's not great that it continued to rust underneath, I'm hoping it will slow my rust down!
@@Springwater786 It will slow it down…but not stop it. I was hoping that a really good wire brushing with the grinder, some hydrate 80 and Dynax UB would be a fit and forget solution but it isn’t. You’ll need to do it properly in 5 years time. Which is ok if your car isn’t a keeper?
@@peteohead mines just light surface rust spots so I suppose it will be better than doing nothing at all. I'm using jenolite rust converter spray after a good clean and degrease then a coating of UB. Would do it properly but being a daily limits the options.
They way you keep saying the product name, makes it sound like a total promotional video! BTW wishbones are far more likely changed due to ball joint issue rather than rust.
Thanks for the info, useful to know This was not a sponsored video and I bought the kit myself. They did agree to sponsor a later video though, a review of my Citroen spacetourer
🎁 **Get £5 off your order with the link below** Lanoguard Underbody Protection Kits
snwbl.io/lanoguard/SHANAKA17034
Tried adding your code after following your helpful tips, but sadly i can't use code on the standard kit purchase I'm trying to order!
If you use this as a website address it should add the discount automatically - snwbl.io/lanoguard/SHANAKA17034
Although, it may not work if you're applying to an already discounted product in the Black Friday sale
Hi, thanks for creating a video showing your Lanoguard treatment & showing the before and after clips, they are great, we really appreciate it 🙂
That's no problem at all. It's a great product, works and is easy to use! 👏🏽
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video 👍🏽
great share & well done, looking forward to the followup video
Thanks buddy 👍🏽 looks like you've already found the follow up video ☺️
Great video, but your lower control arm wasn’t replaced because it was rusty, it’s because the rubber bushes deteriorate, and they replace the whole arm, rather than trying to press out the old ones, and press in new. This process might help keep the bushes hydrated and protected from elements that affect rubber? I plan to do this on a newer car, so should be a little easier
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video.
Ah right, thank you for the info. Yes, definitely worth doing 👍🏽
If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
great explanation of the process, going to give my old banger a treat this year to see if i can get another 20 years out of it.😄😄😉😉👍👍
regards
Kev
Hi Kev - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful.
That's great - you won't regret it. I'm in the process of doing a 1 year review video so if you’ve not already, please do like this video and stay tuned for some more content 🙂
@@everythinghome great be good to see the review already sub'd bell'd and liked👍👍thanks again
@@kevinwillis3390 Thanks! Don't forget you can get £5 off your order with the link below
snwbl.io/lanoguard/SHANAKA17034
Please, make a longterm review maybe next year to see how it goes after the winter.
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video.
Yes, that's my plan 👍🏽
If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
Iv had it on 2 years on my BMW and it doesn’t look any different to the day I put it on, fantastic stuff!!
@@nathangreenwood5990 that's good to know, I've done mine last summer. Will have a good check this coming summer.
Sorry, I used dynax UC by BH not the stuff the gentleman proceeded to use, I have no experience with lanoguard but the bilt
Hamber stuff is still on and working wonders after 2 years.
@@nathangreenwood5990 I see, I used that Bilt Hamber before applying the Lanogaurd.
Thanks I was looking for someone to show this process correctly
Hi Johnny - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful.
If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
great video, clear and concise instructions. And thank you for the one year follow up. Unfortunately my 2011 Honda CR-V has rust worse than yours. Wish me luck :)
Hi Terry - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful.
If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
A really great video, I used this product too to great effect on my rusty landcruiser
Hi John - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful.
Yea it's great, will be doing a 1 year review and top up coat this summer 👍
If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
Awesome video thank you very much. 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful.
If you’ve not already, please do like this video and stay tuned for some more content 🙂
Great video, finally a step by step complete explanation, including how to access the car underside without special equipment. On that topic, did you do one half of the car first (prep, degrease, Hydrate, Lanoguard) or did you move the ramps from rear to front and did each phase separate?
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful.
That's a great question. I did the prep and hydate 80 in one day and moved it front and rear and then did the same for the lanoguard the next sunny day.
If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
Not seen anyone treat an exhaust before, its an replaceable service part, unlike the chassis structure
Thanks, I understand - it seemed to work well - I'd rather protect what I can and replace as little as possible
@@everythinghome Seriously, Everyone don't treat the exhaust, for one thing they mostly rust from the inside out, also the extreme heat just burns off any treatments applied.
@cappaculla yup I agree with this and have revised this in my 1 year review video 👍🏽 ruclips.net/video/OZ5KIxzwnvw/видео.html
Nice video!
Do you reccommend any type of rust converter in particular prior to the Lanoguard treatment?
Stefano
Thanks Stefano. You can just use lanoguard or if it's particularly bad then bilt hamer hydrate 80 like I used should be helpful amzn.to/3CXdfdQ
Great video! Thanks. Is there any point in treat my new car with hydrate 80, just a precausion? I’d like to do anything possible to minimize rust buildup.
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful.
That's a great question, mine was a 9 year old car and had a lot of rust so hence the hydrate 80. If yours is new, I'd just use the lanoguard which is the easiest bit 👍 Don't forget you can get £5 off your order with the link below
snwbl.io/lanoguard/SHANAKA17034
If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
@@everythinghome I’m from Norway so I won’t be able to buy LanoGuard, but I really do like the setup sith grease + the trigger sprayer. Wish I could get it here, everything is just aerosol cans here…
@TheFootballDude18 that's a shame, I'm not sure if buying it through Amazon may be an option.
Norway looks like a lovely country. Would love to visit one day. All the best, Shan
Nice job. Did you notice any burning off of the hydrate 80 on the exhaust ? Some of these converters have a lacquer in them so they dry shiny, which I imagine would burn off on an exhaust.
My only comment is you might regret using stainless bolts in regular steel threads, as it causes galvanic corrosion. I made this mistake a few years ago.
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful.
I did notice a little bit of a burning smell but it didn't last long. Thanks for the advice about the steel threads. I'll have to keep an eye on them when I take them out when I change the oil. I did coat them in the lanoguard grease before putting them in too so hopefully it keeps it all well protected. Time will tell 🤞🏾
If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
Replace rusty bolts with steel ones fully coated in grease before screwing in, then rust proof the bolt heads when tightened.
That's exactly what I did so good to know 👍🏽 should make things significantly easier later this year when I get the splash guard off 😄
Does it dry black ?
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video.
Yes, the bilt hamer rust converter goes black. The lanoguard cures clear.
If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
nice
Thanks Richard 👍🏽
throwing caution to the wind means the opposite of how you use it lol
Haha, yea my bad, whoops 😁
How much of the Hydrate 80 did you end up using? Aware that it's applied very thinly. (Might have missed if you mentioned in the video)
Hi Lewis - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video.
I ended up using around 3/5ths of the bottle although the bottom of the Outlander was very rusty. A decent amount left to treat my other car which is a few years newer.
If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
What size ramps are those ?
These are them, all details on Amazon. Max height 18cm
amzn.to/3XLuzMn (Amazon)
great video, thanks. good idea to use a full face mask, but just fyi "throwing caution to the wind" would be to take a risk, ie NOT wear a mask.
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video. Glad you found it useful.
Ah, you're right, thanks. I realised I'd made a mistake too on watching it back once published 🤦🏽♂️
If you’ve not already, please do like this video and stay tuned for some more content 🙂
The salt on UK roads has a lot to answer for.
Completely agree, although somewhat needed for the snow (usually goes down too late though!)
In the longer term (2-3 years), I have to say I was a bit disappointed by the hydrate 80 on my mk1 mx5 suspension and underside. I applied it carefully after a good wire brushing with the grinder and drill etc. It dried black, and looked amazing. Lanoguard hadn’t been invented, so I used Dynax UB over the top. Sadly, a few years later, I had to take it all apart and do it properly (blasted and epoxy primed) as the rust hadn’t been ‘converted’ other than a superficial layer on the top. It grew and grew underneath and then it was possible to flake it off in chunks. As a quick fix to ‘pretty up’ a rusty car prior to selling, this stuff would be good for disingenuous people like that, but otherwise, in the long run, it wasted time delaying the inevitable. On my next project, I am going to try applying lanoguard direct, after a similar wire brushing, and see if annual top-ups help keep rust at bay. It won’t look as black and clean but that doesn’t matter if it does its job as advertised.
Hi - Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment on this video.
That's interesting to know. I'm just about to do a 1 year review. Mine looks pretty good after 1year but the front has held up better than the back. This year I'll just be topping up with lanoguard and making that a yearly application.
If you’ve not already, please do like this video, stay tuned for some more content and thanks for taking the time to contribute to the discussion on this video 🙂
I'm just about to coat my type R underneath with Dynax UB, it's suppose to arrest existing corrosion. That's not great that it continued to rust underneath, I'm hoping it will slow my rust down!
@@Springwater786 It will slow it down…but not stop it. I was hoping that a really good wire brushing with the grinder, some hydrate 80 and Dynax UB would be a fit and forget solution but it isn’t. You’ll need to do it properly in 5 years time. Which is ok if your car isn’t a keeper?
@@peteohead mines just light surface rust spots so I suppose it will be better than doing nothing at all. I'm using jenolite rust converter spray after a good clean and degrease then a coating of UB. Would do it properly but being a daily limits the options.
@@Springwater786 Go for it mate you won’t do it any harm and it will look loads better.
They way you keep saying the product name, makes it sound like a total promotional video!
BTW wishbones are far more likely changed due to ball joint issue rather than rust.
Thanks for the info, useful to know
This was not a sponsored video and I bought the kit myself. They did agree to sponsor a later video though, a review of my Citroen spacetourer