How to Remove or Treat Rust
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2021
- In this video I show you how to completely neutralise rust before painting, and run through other steps for removing or treating rust.
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0:00 Start
0:01 Intro
0:26 Background
2:00 Rust Removal
2:26 Neutrarust
2:43 Neutrarust 661 Rust Converter
5:00 How it Works
6:57 Treating Car Rust
8:20 Discord Forum Membership
09:20 Subscribing to my channel
Today's Toolkit *
- Neutrarust 661 250ml geni.us/XIK3L (Amazon)
- Neutrarust 661 Rust Converter 1 litre geni.us/W9iMlB (Amazon)
- Neutrarust 661 Rust Converter 5 litres geni.us/e7NG (Amazon)
- Neutrarust Wax geni.us/2bued (Amazon)
* The Amazon links above are affiliate links. It doesn't cost you anything to click on them but I do earn a small commission if you do.
And here's the legal bit I have to state: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
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Charlie DIYte
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#rust #remove #neutralise 
Хобби
Very useful. I have used what I think is similar stuff on cars and bikes from a small pot for years, but never seen or thought it could do that kind of job on a large scale. Your gutters look brilliant.
Thanks Stuart. Yes, I'm a big fan of this stuff. Used it the other day to convert the rust on some metal bands that I've sandwiched inside some pergola roof joists to strengthen them. Video out on that soon.
Keep it going. Love your straightforward approach. I'm a day job professional painter and decorator / handyman. Your testing efforts have helped me out no ends. Thanks mate. Have personal disagreements in places but genuinely think your channel deserves more exposure and recondition. Well done and thanks. Keep it going.
Thanks Wayne, I really appreciate that. Do let me know when you disagree with stuff. Feedback's always welcome. 👍
Thank you for another useful and entertaining video. Your effort is well worth it.
Thanks Dean. I appreciate the Comment 👊
Another great video matey. I'm definitely going to get some for next year's exterior work!
Thanks mate 👊
For the top coat you should try Zinsser allcoat. A fantastic product, water based as well. Satin and a soft gloss finish. It drys to a real factory finish look. 👍🏻 Awesome work by the way.
Absolutely incredible stuff. I couldn't recommend it enough for almost anything. It's particularly good as a simple white paint that never yellows.
Thank you Charlie! Great video and great timing for me too!
You're welcome. Thanks for the Comment 👍
So glad to find you! Was looking for rust fix for the doorknobs in my NYC apartment as I don’t want to replace all 8!
Glad to hear it. They sell this stuff to the US military so you should be able to get hold of it.
Thanks Charlie, can't wait for next week's video!
Thanks. Starting work on it today 👍
Helpful as always. Great work.
Thanks 👍
Excellent content in this very helpful video.Thanks
Thanks David. I've been so impressed with this stuff 👍
Very interesting video. Thank you Charlie!
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.
It's good stuff. I had seen it years ago with car restoration adverts - it seemed a bit expensive so I didn't bother but having seen your excellent in depth video I got some to de-rust a steel girder. It's fabulous stuff and you can go over it with black Hammerite for extra durability. I've used it on various things since even a car wing and wished I'd appreciated it sooner. Thanks👍
It's great John isn't it. Have just reused it on the car wing to buy me a bit of time whilst I wait to have it restored and the gutters I treated in this video are impregnable now.
Good stuff! WÜRTH had similar (if not the same) thing for ages, but only in liquid form. Been using it on my racing 4x4.
Ah, that's good to know 👍
Have used that tiny pot when restoring our old fireplaces. Wish we had known about this back then! 👍👍
An exceptionally informative video from the DIY guru that begs the question, why would anyone name their child Rusty.
Very informative Charlie, keep e’m coming 👍👍
Thanks Harly 👍
Brilliant video, thank you Charlie
Thanks Val. Good to hear from you.
Very useful, thanks!
Thanks 👍
Love your vids Charlie, keeping me one step ahead of myself :D
Thanks so much 🙏👊
This is used in the North sea on oil rigs, I have used this many times and is a great product
It's awesome isn't it! 👍
Psychic Charlie strikes again. Just about to restore an old Singer sewing machine with a rusty treadle and frame as a winter project and had just starting to look for rust treatments. Wasn't a product that appeared when searching but it looks just perfect for that and have ordered a small tub of it.
Thanks Glenn. Glad you found it useful. It's a moot point whether the rust remover or converter would be best for that but if you're repainting after, then what you've ordered will do a great job.
Just want to say many thanks - I’ve been researching loads of videos, websites etc so I can cure the rust on my faithful 02 MK3 Ford Mondeo and don’t want to get rid of it. Kind regards, Kev (Tyne and Wear)👍🏻👍🏻
You're welcome Kevin. Good to hear from you. I'm in the same situation with my Golf. I just love it!
I love my Mondeo too. Fabulous cars - so sad to see them end.
I have to say Charlie no one can beat a jhonston gloss loved the video,
Yes it's certainly one of the better ones. Thanks and great to hear from you, buddy 👍
Nifty looking product! I actually quite like the black (primed) finish, trés heritage
Yes it doesn't look bad, does it!
I have been using Hammerite Kurust on dodgy cars for years. Great stuff but it also only comes in small tubs. Another great video. Thank you.
I’ve had great results with that too. A wee tub goes so far too as it’s so runny
Thanks Shane, I'll definitely check that out!
@@isyt1 Would you recommend kurust as I was going to try aquasteel rust converter but it has mixed reviews if it can be painted over.
@@hardworker8030 I’ve only tried Kurust so can’t comment on the other one sorry. You can paint over kurust though. Might need a primer first though I can remember
Another great video Charlie, hope all is well, take care
Thanks Peter. Yes all fine thanks. I trust the same goes for you?
@@CharlieDIYte all good thanks, plodding on as best I can
That stuff’s a revelation Charlie. I’m currently doing loads of rust removal as I’ve got a couple of old lawnmowers and rusty tools from my uncle’s house. I have been using electrolysis for items that fit in a plastic box and “Evaporust” for small parts. None of these methods would really suit gutters or larger items but that product would suit smaller items too. Evaporust works in a similar converting way but it’s a liquid and you need to keep the parts dipped in it. I’ll use your link and have a look at that stuff. Btw, as a building surveyor I spend my time looking at leaking gutters and I can confirm plastic gutters will not last any where near as long as your lovely painted cast iron ones. You’ve saved yourself £1,000’s there because cast iron gutters cost a fortune now and you will have added £1,000’s to the value of your farmhouse. No-one wants a nice period property to have plastic gutters! Good work Charlie 😎👍🏼
Thanks Paul and great to hear from you. Yes, they also do the rust remover but that and the protective wax only accounts for 10% of their revenues. The converter accounts for the other 90%. I'll sneak that video out next week. It's a bit niche and probably won't get too many views but if it helps a few people to refurbish their gutters, then great 👍
Wow, that’s a brilliant product
It's cool, isn't it 👍
Great video as ever, and very relevant to work I'm doing now, so many thanks. I've removed a load of cast iron guttering from my cottage and was about to replace with plastic, but you've made me think again!
If I may, I'd like to pass on a few things as well although I suspect most people will already know them.
- You can use food-grade citric acid as a rust remover (not converter) either dabbed on or, best of all, as a bath for anything small. Dissolve in boiling water for best effect. It will remove rust efficiently although you may have to leave overnight or a few days if the rust is thick. Remove flakes and loose rust first of course. Be aware it will remove _all_ the rust and you will be left with pits and holes where the corrosion was, but these can be filled with paint afterwards (such as Frost Extreme Chassis Black) depending upon application. It will also remove the aluminium or zinc anodising you sometimes find on bolts etc. so be aware. I use citric acid a lot hence I buy it in 5kg bags for under £17, and it lasts quite a while. Water based and non-toxic.
- Jenolite is a rust converter (not remover) I have used a lot, but I really like the look of this Neutrarust so will certainly be buying some now. Jenolite works well but doesn’t have the acrylic waterproofing aspect that Charlie spoke about, or at least if it does I haven’t noticed.
- Exterior paints like Weathershield and Stormshield are, as Charlie says, useful for more than just the house. Their flexible nature makes them ideal for use under vehicles. I’m just about to paint a replacement under-slung metal fuel tank with Weathershield for my ageing 4x4. The paint is tough but you can always top-coat with bitumen if you feel the need.
- If you have a compressor (and if you don’t then you _really_ should), then get yourself a needle scaler. It’s really noisy in use (wear ear protection) but superb for removing loose rust from non-delicate surfaces. I’ve also been using it to remove some nasty acrylic paint from a stone wall want to repoint in lime mortar. A very versatile tool. (If you do buy a compressor you’ll wonder why you hadn’t done so before, I promise you.)
What a wonderful, information packed comment. Thank you SO MUCH 🙏 Yes sounds like I need a compressor. A game changing moment like so many I've experienced over the years. Yes I was aware of the Jenolite but omitted to mention it for some reason. I meant to ask people to comment on what they use but that generally happens because you're such a wonderfully giving bunch. If you can, I would try and stick to cast iron. I've got a few comments in this feed from people regretting having ripped it out - mainly due to saying gutters. Good luck with all the DIY 👊
Great work
Thanks 👊
Very nice. As a painter and decorator we always try to explain to do a decent proper job its going to take some time. Rarely are the prepared to pay. Shame because its so worth it
Hi James good to hear from you. That's incredibly frustrating. I know what you mean. We have a similar problem in the soft furnishings business where the more skilled you are at the install, the easier you make it look and the less they feel they ought to pay. Frustrating for you though having to do a half baked job for them, and a false economy for them.
You’re videos are my favourite, so much info .
The metal gutters and downpipes are beautiful, compared to plastic ones .
Interesting product , like how your car was repaired ready for priming .
I hope you get to make some money for your hardwork or a job offer on TV 📺 would be great 👍🏽.
Thank you so much. I can't see that happening any time soon (the TV bit) but here's hoping 🤞
Thank you
You're welcome 👍🏻
Recognised those MK4 spots a mile away - I’ve just done mine - she is 21 so not bad really! Great video as always. I’d also pull back the wheel arch liner slightly and clear out the debris.
Used to have a great MK2. When I went to sell it the guy asked if he could look under the carpet. Turns out it was a cut & shut and I never even knew!
MK4’s great too 👍🏻
@@isyt1 😱 nightmare. I’ve had mine 19 years! Just bought another to preserve the golf, but broken my shoulder and can’t drive for a few more months 😩
Inherited it from my Mum and am gradually sorting it out with the help of a golf guru who lives in the village - he wouldn't let me do anymore to those rear wings as he wants to sort them out properly (I was going to put Bonda Rust primer on next and he said exactly the same thing as you about the mud caught behind the liners). It's off the road unfortunately right now as there's a problem with the coolant - keeps draining away somewhere. Just LOVE driving it though. Sorry to hear that @isyt Had a MK2 Synchro 4 wheel drive back in the naughties. Gave it to an unscrupulous VW car dealer in London who said it wasn't with the repair bills after a service. They're worth a fortune now 🤦🏻♂️
Take a look at ACF-50 Anti corrosion spray. They made it for aircraft carriers and now use on motor bikes. I spray van with it. Thanks. Great video and helpful
Thanks, I'll check that out.
Charlie, you should start a car channel :) Great video, useful, I used Kurust on some radiators, seems to work ok.
Ha, I'd love to but I know very little about cars 👍
I have often found these rust converters not very good for the long term, but the Bonda Prima I can confirm
is a hidden gem.
Fantastic product and very effective.
It's extraordinary isn't it 👌
@@CharlieDIYte If im removing rust, like to see shiny metal, ive used Jenolite with small wire brush or wire wool and also Metal Ready from Fleetwoods...dissolves it and leaves a phosfate surface ready for paint.
Looks similar to bilt hambers deox range of rust converters / protection products.
Hey Charlie what fixing would you use on a hollow door ?
I used Neutrarust on a refurb on in painted rusty cast brake calipers on a Volvo XC70 .I stripped off the loose rust to a decent smooth ( enough) surface …. Painted it on and this transformed the surface to a very pleasing finish…..used it on all similar surfaces under the car ………absolutely delighted with the result …..now have a LR Discovery 4 which has seen a few Northern winters now and look forward to what I know will be a transformation …
Highly recommend Neutrarust also …
!
It's great isn't it. The drain pipes still look brand new. 👌👊
@@CharlieDIYte yeah impressive work ! can see that and thats what prompted me to reply on this stuff …. I love it …. I even like the finish .!!!
I think what is especially good for tge individual who uses it is that you have a real sense of the change and improvement having seen the original state and then the end product!
Good videos m8
Thanks 👊
Thanks Charlie a useful video. I’ve got to repaint our oil tank and had bought some hammeright for the purpose, but the rust neutraliser looks to be a better bet beforehand to give a more solid and rustproof surface to paint on. And seems very good price as well
Thanks Geoffrey. Yes I've owned lots of Hammerite over the years but it doesn't have a great reputation amongst those in the know. You'd be better with this stuff, a coat of Bonda for belt and braces and then an oil based top coat - which could be the Hammerite I guess if you've got it anyway.
A very useful resource. Thank you.
Thanks 👍
how do you remove rusted elements from a steel/chrome kitchen dish drainer ?
Used a similar product by Jenolite - sprayed it into every cavity on my car's chassis till it was dripping out. Used about 4L for a small car, so make sure you don't overdo it. Hard to get good atomisation with a flexi lance on a shutz gun, so this is where it gets expensive on the liquid. So far so good though, time will tell how long the sills last!
Good work. That's got to have a made a massive difference to the car. With any luck you've stopped the rust in its tracks 👍
Thanks. Would be interesting to see how that works on your car as I've tried several brands of rust converter and none seem to work.
Looks great so far. 👍
yes I've never had any luck with converter's,last about six months,just put this on ,hour later hasn't changed colour
Good stuff. Out of interest how badly do cast iron fittings rust on the inside of the downpipes etc. Just as bad as the outside?
Cast iron all rust from the rear . Rust from the outside in as they can't be painted from the back unless removed to paint
They don't seem to. The downpipes are pretty well preserved. It tends to be the gutters - specifically the rear below the roof line and the offset downpipes that have rusted the most.
@@CharlieDIYte I guess the downpipes will have air blowing through them to dry them off when the rain stops. Where as the back of the gutters probably keep the moisture in and hence are more rusty. I just need to work out why my plastic downpipe offsets keep blocking, I think its the magpies! Anyway I enjoy your videos, thanks Charlie.
@@robthomas7232 back of downpipes rusting might be because of a leaking joint in the downpipe. All of ours so far have been set off the wall sufficiently to be able to get behind to sand/paint, they've had rubber grommets to space them about an inch and a half away from the wall - but we're talking Victorian up to interwar, so maybe they affixed cast iron downpipes differently to later houses?
Another really useful video. Thank you.
Would you recommend this for low level surface rust on car underbody or an alternative? Just had my MOT done and had a few advisories on rust on shocks, springs and exhaust which will likely need work before next years MOT. I'm thinking I should treat this now before winter sets in. Not too fussed about painting over it afterwards if I can get away with it.
Yes, 100% mate. Just do what I did to remove any loose or flaking stuff, and then paint it on. You're meant to protect with a top coat but just as a peace of mind thing to halt and neutralise the rust, it'll do a great job👍
@@CharlieDIYte Finally got around to ordering this and used it on a pair of old car ramps. You were bang on about how minimal of product is required. Covered both ramps with a few ml. Onto painting them tomorrow. You're 2 out of 2 for recommendations that have worked out for me (first was Zinnser 123 primer). 👍🏽
"Neutrarust haven't paid me anything for this video.." I love the integrity.
Back in the 70s I used to use a rust converter on rusty spots on cars.
It did exactly this - converted to a hard black neutral surface.
I don't remember what it was called...
It's great stuff, isn't it 👍
There are some great products in the automotive world like Bill Hambrr Deox and Por 51 which can then be primed with Electrox zinc primer. Have done this on my car and it’s been incredibly successful.
Edit: if you take off the arch liners on the mk4 you’ll probably find huge chunks of mud which is keeping the metal damp.
Yes, that's exactly what the guy who's sorting it out for me said. I'm fortunate I've got a Golf guru living in the village - inherited this car from my Mum and absolutely love it. Unfortunately a coolant issue is preventing me driving it at the moment.
Bilt Hamber and Dinitrol products are some of the best. For rust conversion, I've use BH Hydrate with good success, but they're all fundamentally the same thing (tannic acid + polymers) as is the usual thing in the chemical world.
With your Golf, I would say that as the steel is now compromised (holes), you should really be cutting it out and welding in some new sheet steel. Treating the surface is fruitless at this stage.
Your videos always arrive at a pertinent time, Charlie!
I think our realities must be in some sort of synchrocity!
Ah, great to hear that, buddy. You'll love this stuff. What have you got it planned for? 👊
Nice vid Charlie, can you use this on a car exhaust pipe?
I can't see why not in the sense that it's an inert, neutral compound when dry.
Love the finish looks so much better than plastic, but I do love new aluminium 👍 “just expensive “
Just a thought, you didn’t show the best way to remove the down pipes or guttering. As I no this can be quite difficult. As in rusted fixings to wall and brick work. Could be another video perhaps 🤔
That'll be in this week's video 👍
That rust converter is essentially just tannic acid, which is the main ingredient of products such as Kurust. Never been a fan of those, as they only tend to penetrate the surface layer of rust, allowing the underneath to continue rusting, which will eventually bleed through. I've had better results with phosphoric acid which removes the rust, then either a zinc rich, or graphene primer, then top coat.
Is the product for sale in Europe?
Hi, any tips as to how brush/grate off rusty flakes on old balcony iron balustrades, before applying this rust marrying product? Thanks.🙂🙂
Gerald there's often no silver bullet for this other than blood sweat and tears. You can get however get some very good write brushes for drills like this set amzn.to/3AMNdq6 (affiliate link) that would take off the stubborn stuff and maybe get yourself some wire wool to remove loose rust from intricate areas. The beauty of the Neutrarust though is your not meant to remove all the rust - just the loose stuff.
@@CharlieDIYte highly useful and hands-on presentations and advice and results and knowledge. Thanks much.
Blimey! Seems a wonder product! Cheers Charlie, I’ll be getting some!
Yes I've been seriously impressed with it!
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I need to treat a scabby van floor that has a mix of light surface rust and deeper thick pitting in places but there is still some decent paint in between and the odd bit of bare metal after some sanding. If I paint this stuff over the full floor, rust and sound paint, will it be ok to hammerite smooth straight over it ?
Yes I would have thought so. Scrape off any loose bits so that the Neutrarust can penetrate all the rust. 👍
Hi Charlie -can one use the neutra 661 on a radiator please? Thanks
Absolutely 👍
Incredibly helpful. Thank you Charlie, I'll be giving this gunk a run out.
Wait, did you sand the repaired Golf rust patch and then prime the metal? Worked out okay? Car paint is hard to say the least.
Just applied the Neutrarust for now. I was going to prime with Bonda and then paint and lacquer but my Golf chap wouldn't let me because he wants to prime and repaint it himself as part of the larger work on the wings.
Could you use this stuff to restore a rusty workbench clamp?
You could, yes. It depends what finish you're after really. If you want the rust stripped off you should use a rust remover, but if you're just wanting to stabilise and protect it and are happy with that black finish, then the rust converter would do a good job.
@@CharlieDIYte Cheers Charlie 👍🏻
Is this any different from Hammerite Kurust?
Looks similar but it's only designed for small areas.
👍👍👍
Thanks Paul 👍
I'm a fan of electrolytic derusting...
It's awesome isn't it! 👍
If I used this on the bottom of my car what would you recommend to paint over it with.
I couldn't really say as I'm not a car mechanic but you could do a lot worse than painting over with something like bonda rust primer and then a thicker protective top coat. But on the rigs they often use this and then skip the primer stage and go straight to top coat.
@@CharlieDIYte I don't know if to use the kurust I bought or buy the neutrarust 661 Rust Converter but I will try the bonda rust primer. I used hammerite direct to rust metal paint about 7 months ago on a rusty petrol pipe and the rust is coming through. I see a lot of people recommending Bilt Hamber hydrate 80 but it seems people are having problems painting over it.
Im doing my gutters at the moment. Im using electrolysis to take off all the rust
Clever! 👍
What about the inside? The bit that gets the most water
It doesn't really rust as much possibly due to not being exposed to the elements.
THATS STRANGE , they just happen to have put their price up 2 quid! on the day of your video from when you filmed it,
That's disappointing. Sorry to hear that 🙄
Thanks Charlie.. Great video mate. I'd like to replace my cheep plastic crap with some new cast iron guttering but the price is putting me off at the moment mate lol 👍👍👍👍
Thanks Carl. It's tricky. I wonder if you could get some from reclamation yards, or maybe replace in small phases 🤔
Phosphoric acid from ebay. Converts the rust to a black phosphate that prevents further rusting and can even be overpainted.
It isn't a converter. It dissolves the rust and should then be washed off prior to painting.
Charlie, you need to setup a "Thanks" button on your youtube account so I can tip you a coffee now and then for all time/money saved from using your advice.
Thanks AJ. That's very kind. There's one on the home page (top right) and also a link in the Description below each video. A button would be better though 👍
Would be good to see how to remove rust from tools. You know when you leave a hammer or pliers outside in a shower.
Rust remover would be your best bet for that. Neutrarust also sell that.
There is no magic one-step way to remove rust from iron or steel and rust-protect it. Unless the rust is very minor, like flash or light surface rust, you have to first remove as much of it as you can through a combination of chemical, mechanical and electric (electrolysis) methods, degrease it and treat the underlying metal with a phosphoric acid-based solution to neutralize and convert whatever rust still remains and etch the bare metal for better primer and/or topcoat adhesion, and then prime and/or topcoat with your preferred product(s), to seal and protect the derusted and converted metal so air and moisture can't penetrate to create new rust, and make it more aesthetically pleasing.
Basically:
1 - Remove as much rust as you can, chemically, mechanically and/or electrically
2 - Degrease the derusted metal
3 - Apply a phosphoric acid-based product to neutralize and convert remaining rust and etch bare metal
4 - Apply primer and/or topcoat to seal the derusted and treated metal and make it look nice
If you skip any of these steps, rust is almost guaranteed to return.
How about using gutters made of aluminium, and forget about all this?
Yep, nice idea but unfortunately would be a bit out of character for this old cottage.
Could you just leave the black nutrarust on and not paint it. ?
I suppose you could. The top coat just adds further protection.
Why does it matter of you remove all the rust? As long as you remove the oxygen there shouldn't be anymore rust.
Because it needs rust for the chemical reaction to take place, so I'm told.
Oh, the regret I have that we allowed builders to remove 1903 iron roof gutters and down pipes with plastic replacements! The gutters now warp and shrink with the seasons so that leaks are the norm.
Oh Jeremy, I'm sorry to hear that. We've all done things like this 🤦🏻♂️
How did you deal with that awkward little 1/4 inch section that’s closest to he wall, and also behind those awkward brackets that hold the pipe close to the wall? Hard to prepare without fully removing everything.
Did you actually remove everything from site?? It wasn’t clear if you had done that!
If you did remove everything for treatment then you absolutely should make that fact clear!
The inference is that it’s super easy and non intrusive!
If removal of of all the fittings to prep and apply the anti rust treatment is required then you’re definitely misleading your viewers!!
???