Fast Etch: www.eastwood.com/rust-remover-eastwood-fast-etch.html?RUclips&+comparison+fast+etch Gel Dissolver: www.eastwood.com/rust-remover-eastwood-rust-dissolver.html?RUclips&+comparison+gel+dissolver Rust Converter: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html?RUclips&+converter+gel+dissolver
So far I find the fast etch to be very effective and it suffers virtually no flash rusting, the only side effect is you have to wipe out the excess before it get dry or it will leave gummy residue. Heavily rusted metal requires some wire brushing or these chemicals will not able to penetrate.
I have a rust spot on the lower fender of my daily driver that keeps coming back every winter. I've been using gel dissolver, etching primer and an enamel urethane top coat with no luck. I will use a rust encapsulater in the spring. Thanks for the tip!
I’m hearing the rust belt uses a rust encapsulater after the other stuff. Etch, clean/prime, encapsulate, then put a wax based product on top every year, like Cosmoline. You can also do clear coat, but still have to use a fluid or wax film on top every year. I spend summers in Maine and never had to worry about rust til now. One summer and my van was aged over a decade! Going to be doing the series I said on the whole undercarriage. Prob one section at a time, cause it’s a lot and gonna take a while. It’ll be worth it though!
Please leave us a review on the product page! We'd love to have your feedback. Fast Etch: www.eastwood.com/rust-remover-eastwood-fast-etch.html Rust Dissolver: www.eastwood.com/rust-remover-eastwood-rust-dissolver.html Rust Converter: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html
So are we supposed to use wire brush loose rust -- rust converter - rust encapsulator Or wire brush -- rust converter -- prep - encapsulator I thought the encapsulator was fine to directly apply over the converter
It ultimately is a judgement call. You can simply wire brush loose and flaking rust off and jump to encapsulator. Or if you want a little more insurance you can wire brush loose rust, apply converter, and then apply encapsulator.
@@eastwoodco i plan on getting the encapsulator plus for some undercarriage parts and was wondering if a top coat was needed? i plan on applying 2+ coats of the encapsulator on top of the converter. Also does the converter need to be washed off?
Rust encapsulator generally only needs 1 coat for full coverage. If it's not in direct sunlight - rust encapsulator does not need a top coat. Converter does can just be top coated once it's dry.
Would it be good to use rust converter on inside of a truck frame and then go over with your Eastwood internal frame coating? Or should I just go through the inside of frame with internal frame coating alone?
Do you have access to the inside of the frame? The benefit of internal frame coating is that it has a wand to get inside boxed frames. If you have an open c channel you have more options.
I don’t have access to wipe anything down but I have a spray gun with access rod that can spray rust converter in the frame if it would be better than the internal frame coating by itself? Can I use rust converter and the internal frame coating together? I have a boxed frame.
Please tell us the active ingredients of the last two. Phosphoric acid was the fast etch. Then what are the next two? Is one of them Lye like found in RUST OUT?
@@eastwoodco my understanding is that the encapsulator is not meant for large panels like quarter panels. If you don’t get all the pinholes of rust and you apply epoxy primer will the epoxy prevent rust from popping through? It seems like the last insurance step would be a converter since a disolver may not get everything. I’m talking about a panel that can’t be blasted for fear of warping.
Okay now we understand. You could use use the converter and then spray fast etch across the panel as extra insurance. Check out the workflow we did on the mustang here at 4:17 : ruclips.net/video/rZ7F6gmmH4E/видео.html
@@eastwoodco so would the fast etch begin to remove the areas where it turned black from the converter? Does epoxy primer seal any small rust pits or will it eventually come back through? It seems impossible to get all the rust. Are your epoxy primers high build?
We spoke with our engineering department and they said: For rust on large panel best method is DA/sanding with 80grit, thus leaving rust in valleys, sub scratches and pin holes. Blow off panel, apply fast etch. This is the best method for actually dissolving rust with diluted phosphoric acid. Apply to surface with rag or spray bottle, allow to sit 5 mins reapply until pin holes turn to dark spots (rust is now dissolved and chemical reaction leaves iron phosphate). Then apply epoxy primer. Rust convertor is used when panel can not be first abraded with 80 grit to remove corrosion (think recessed door jamb). rust convertor must be applied directly over rust not fast etch or any other product. Our epoxy's will have some build (OptiFlow has a decent amount) but for explicitly high build you would want to look at urethane or polyester High Build Primer.
To properly repair that you need to sand out the chips and feather the paint back to where it's good again. Then spray fast etch on the bare metal with rust. Then wipe clean with pre-painting prep. Then prime and move onto paint. If you don't want to refinish the panel you could apply touch-up paint to the rock chips and it will hold up better than nothing.
So i have some light rust to remove after sandblasting. Im worried that fadt etch will interfere with my epoxy base primer coat. Whats the best way to neutralize prior to primer?
Fast Etch and After Blast can be neutralized with Pre-Painting Prep. Simply spray it on while the fast etch is still wet and then wipe it all off. It will not interfere with epoxy primer. We do that process in this video: Watch from 4:16 on ruclips.net/video/rZ7F6gmmH4E/видео.html
Hey bro, i need some help, so i have water leak in my trunk, after i fix thr leak, i want to fix the the rust, what is the best way to do this? Should i use fast etch or rust converter, The rust seemed to be near seam sealer area
@@eastwoodco hard to tell its between middle to deep rust, can i use fast etch first, then hit it with the rust converter after? I also came across the por-15 kit, any good?
Okay with that info we'd recommend wire brushing all the loose/bad stuff off and rust encapsulating the area, we have it in aerosol or brush able versions. www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-plus.html
As long as it's not freshly running it will treat pitting that's common on exhausts. You'll still need to clean it off and then top coat with something to prevent the rust from coming back.
After Fast Etch, he applies Pre-Painting Prep to neutralize the fast etch, and clean off the panel www.eastwood.com/ew-pre-painting-prep-aerosol-11oz.html
FYI with the liquid rust dissolver, do not leave any metal part in this liquid over 24-36 hours especially thin metal parts because this chemical will dissolve more than just rust. I had left bolts, screws, clips and even sockets submerged in this chemical for over two days to remove all the rust off and everything looked like the aftermath of metal spoons used to mix caustic chemicals in cartoons! I’ll be the first to say the product works, but definitely a little too well so whatever item being covered in this chemical needs to be checked every few hours to monitor progress. Also if the part is cleaned with hot water, it must be forced air dried immediately along with coated with a chemical such as metal wash to prevent flash rust from forming.
Dude, do you know how many morons are going to use this stuff outside on a windy day! Mask and eye protection is a must anytime you are working with chemicals. Just saying, great products and great video. Thanks for posting.
Fast Etch: www.eastwood.com/rust-remover-eastwood-fast-etch.html?RUclips&+comparison+fast+etch
Gel Dissolver: www.eastwood.com/rust-remover-eastwood-rust-dissolver.html?RUclips&+comparison+gel+dissolver
Rust Converter: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html?RUclips&+converter+gel+dissolver
Excellent comparison of these three products.
I had bought some of each based on the amount of work I'm doing on my car. Can't wait to try them out.
Let us know what you think!
So far I find the fast etch to be very effective and it suffers virtually no flash rusting, the only side effect is you have to wipe out the excess before it get dry or it will leave gummy residue. Heavily rusted metal requires some wire brushing or these chemicals will not able to penetrate.
I have a rust spot on the lower fender of my daily driver that keeps coming back every winter. I've been using gel dissolver, etching primer and an enamel urethane top coat with no luck. I will use a rust encapsulater in the spring. Thanks for the tip!
I’m hearing the rust belt uses a rust encapsulater after the other stuff. Etch, clean/prime, encapsulate, then put a wax based product on top every year, like Cosmoline. You can also do clear coat, but still have to use a fluid or wax film on top every year. I spend summers in Maine and never had to worry about rust til now. One summer and my van was aged over a decade! Going to be doing the series I said on the whole undercarriage. Prob one section at a time, cause it’s a lot and gonna take a while. It’ll be worth it though!
I use it on my 56 , 63 f100 and 51f3 it work great , east wood has great product! Thank you.
Please leave us a review on the product page! We'd love to have your feedback.
Fast Etch: www.eastwood.com/rust-remover-eastwood-fast-etch.html
Rust Dissolver: www.eastwood.com/rust-remover-eastwood-rust-dissolver.html
Rust Converter: www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html
Fantastic video!
Glad you liked it!
Is the rust dissolver basically the same chemical as fast etch, but in gel form?
Eastwood, same question.... (not necessarily the same chemical but the same result?)
No
Will there be any other flavors in the future?
Fast etch...so acetone neutralizes?
Yes.
Which acetone product do you recommend
@@temoordonez7414 Low VOC Pre Paint Prep is just acetone and is what they used to neutralize Fast Etch in their Q&A
So are we supposed to use wire brush loose rust -- rust converter - rust encapsulator
Or wire brush -- rust converter -- prep - encapsulator
I thought the encapsulator was fine to directly apply over the converter
It ultimately is a judgement call. You can simply wire brush loose and flaking rust off and jump to encapsulator. Or if you want a little more insurance you can wire brush loose rust, apply converter, and then apply encapsulator.
@@eastwoodco i plan on getting the encapsulator plus for some undercarriage parts and was wondering if a top coat was needed? i plan on applying 2+ coats of the encapsulator on top of the converter. Also does the converter need to be washed off?
Rust encapsulator generally only needs 1 coat for full coverage. If it's not in direct sunlight - rust encapsulator does not need a top coat. Converter does can just be top coated once it's dry.
Would it be good to use rust converter on inside of a truck frame and then go over with your Eastwood internal frame coating? Or should I just go through the inside of frame with internal frame coating alone?
Do you have access to the inside of the frame? The benefit of internal frame coating is that it has a wand to get inside boxed frames. If you have an open c channel you have more options.
I don’t have access to wipe anything down but I have a spray gun with access rod that can spray rust converter in the frame if it would be better than the internal frame coating by itself? Can I use rust converter and the internal frame coating together? I have a boxed frame.
Okay now we understand - yes you can double them up. Spray converter let it sit for 24 hours then top coat with encapsulator or internal frame coat.
Please tell us the active ingredients of the last two. Phosphoric acid was the fast etch. Then what are the next two?
Is one of them Lye like found in RUST OUT?
If you use the rust converter can you go over with a different product if you are not satisfied like the remover or Fast Etch?
You could - more likely you would use converter, fast etch, or remover and then coat with encapsulator or move to epoxy primer.
@@eastwoodco my understanding is that the encapsulator is not meant for large panels like quarter panels.
If you don’t get all the pinholes of rust and you apply epoxy primer will the epoxy prevent rust from popping through? It seems like the last insurance step would be a converter since a disolver may not get everything. I’m talking about a panel that can’t be blasted for fear of warping.
Okay now we understand. You could use use the converter and then spray fast etch across the panel as extra insurance. Check out the workflow we did on the mustang here at 4:17 : ruclips.net/video/rZ7F6gmmH4E/видео.html
@@eastwoodco so would the fast etch begin to remove the areas where it turned black from the converter?
Does epoxy primer seal any small rust pits or will it eventually come back through? It seems impossible to get all the rust.
Are your epoxy primers high build?
We spoke with our engineering department and they said:
For rust on large panel best method is DA/sanding with 80grit, thus leaving rust in valleys, sub scratches and pin holes. Blow off panel, apply fast etch. This is the best method for actually dissolving rust with diluted phosphoric acid. Apply to surface with rag or spray bottle, allow to sit 5 mins reapply until pin holes turn to dark spots (rust is now dissolved and chemical reaction leaves iron phosphate).
Then apply epoxy primer.
Rust convertor is used when panel can not be first abraded with 80 grit to remove corrosion (think recessed door jamb). rust convertor must be applied directly over rust not fast etch or any other product.
Our epoxy's will have some build (OptiFlow has a decent amount) but for explicitly high build you would want to look at urethane or polyester High Build Primer.
Is this liquid version of rust converter good/ok to use on bare metal spots? The aerosol can says not to use on bare metal
Awesome video
Thanks!
I have a lot of rock chips with rust that are about a month old, should I use the fast etch?
Fast etch is part of the re-coating process - we wouldn't recommend spraying it on good paint.
But if it’s rusting doesn’t that mean it’s bare metal? What should I use instead?
To properly repair that you need to sand out the chips and feather the paint back to where it's good again. Then spray fast etch on the bare metal with rust. Then wipe clean with pre-painting prep. Then prime and move onto paint.
If you don't want to refinish the panel you could apply touch-up paint to the rock chips and it will hold up better than nothing.
So i have some light rust to remove after sandblasting. Im worried that fadt etch will interfere with my epoxy base primer coat. Whats the best way to neutralize prior to primer?
Fast Etch and After Blast can be neutralized with Pre-Painting Prep. Simply spray it on while the fast etch is still wet and then wipe it all off. It will not interfere with epoxy primer. We do that process in this video:
Watch from 4:16 on
ruclips.net/video/rZ7F6gmmH4E/видео.html
I want to let my parts set for a year before I paint. Will fast etch stop them from flash rusting if I keep them in dry storage?
That's not what it's designed to do, we recommend putting the parts in primer at least if they're going to sit.
Thanks for the quick replies. You products are top notch! @@eastwoodco
Hey bro, i need some help, so i have water leak in my trunk, after i fix thr leak, i want to fix the the rust, what is the best way to do this? Should i use fast etch or rust converter, The rust seemed to be near seam sealer area
How deep is the rust? Fast etch is for light pitting/surface rust. Rust converter is for deeper issues.
@@eastwoodco hard to tell its between middle to deep rust, can i use fast etch first, then hit it with the rust converter after? I also came across the por-15 kit, any good?
Okay with that info we'd recommend wire brushing all the loose/bad stuff off and rust encapsulating the area, we have it in aerosol or brush able versions.
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-plus.html
Any rust removal spray that can be sprayed on and let dry?
The rust converter will do what you're talking about. Or you can use rust encapsulator and top coat from there.
Can i use this on my motorcycle exhaust?
As long as it's not freshly running it will treat pitting that's common on exhausts. You'll still need to clean it off and then top coat with something to prevent the rust from coming back.
is it ok to spray eastwood fast etch near hydraulic hose?
You will probably want to tape it off, and wipe any excess spray off with pre-painting prep to neutralize it.
9:00 that's the thinnest gel I've ever seen!
What’s the stuff in the can that he using after apply the fast etch in the first demonstration
After Fast Etch, he applies Pre-Painting Prep to neutralize the fast etch, and clean off the panel
www.eastwood.com/ew-pre-painting-prep-aerosol-11oz.html
That's good
White vinegar is great for removing rust and it is cheap.
FYI with the liquid rust dissolver, do not leave any metal part in this liquid over 24-36 hours especially thin metal parts because this chemical will dissolve more than just rust. I had left bolts, screws, clips and even sockets submerged in this chemical for over two days to remove all the rust off and everything looked like the aftermath of metal spoons used to mix caustic chemicals in cartoons!
I’ll be the first to say the product works, but definitely a little too well so whatever item being covered in this chemical needs to be checked every few hours to monitor progress. Also if the part is cleaned with hot water, it must be forced air dried immediately along with coated with a chemical such as metal wash to prevent flash rust from forming.
Dude, do you know how many morons are going to use this stuff outside on a windy day! Mask and eye protection is a must anytime you are working with chemicals. Just saying, great products and great video. Thanks for posting.
We totally agree PPE is a must, that's why Dave has his safety glasses on when spraying the fast etch and gloves on throughout.
Gonna save you a LOT of time, get a Laser Rust Remover from China.
The problem is laser rust removers are very expensive - this is a chemical means that is far more cost effective.