Just an idea would be to carefully place a few large objects in the pool to raise the liquid level, this would probably use less of Evapo-Rust and reduce the process time. Really enjoy your work Edd. Thank you!
I'll just put mine here so.. Could have placed a stack of blocks in the centre, reduced the required volume by at least a third.. or place the whole chassis in a thick bag like the tarp mentioned below, in and outlets for the Evaporust..
You could have filled those 5 litre containers with water and placed them into the pool so as to raise the liquid level high enough to cover the entire chassis in one go. It's just a thought!
I've used Evaporust for over ten years and it works outstandingly. Having a 500 gallon dip tank is nice, but not very economical. The method I use is a recirculating pump with a small shower head and a small container to catch the material. I've done large projects like bumpers and axles that way. It would reduce the material use down to a couple hundred dollars at most.
@@markdoldon8852 Haven't specifically tried it but it should be just as easy. Just need to build a nozzle adapter. Could be a simple plugged hose with holes drilled in it. Just need to splash as much as possible over the rust and continuously recirculate it.
You could raise the level in the pool without having to use more evapo-rust. Get some large plastic tubs, and put them floating on the surface of the evapo rust in the free space in the pool. Then fill the plastic tubs with either water, some breeze blocks, or just anything at all to weigh them down. The tubs will displace the evapo rust in the pool, causing the level to rise. Same idea as those "water saving hippos" that you can get to put in the cistern of your toilet, to reduce water usage.
I said the same thing as you until i read your statement so i deleted mine. There is another way, he could have rotated the chassis 90 degrees so it is hung on its side instead then he could have used a pool one forth the size of the pool he used.
I am a huge fan of evaporust! Started using it almost 2 years ago on the motorcycle restorations I've done. Especially the inside of gas tanks. I have found that cleaning the parts of grease and oil first helps preserve the evaporust. You gave the best scientific explanation of the magic that happens I've heard.
@@otm646eletrólise corroe o metal junto com a ferrugem e pode abrir um buraco no que você estiver tirando ferrugem com eletrólise, vai por mim em uma restauração o que você não quer é peças danificadas por uma maneira de remover ferrugem que poderia ser totalmente evitável ! 🥴
@@matheustoddynho That is absolutely not true. Electrolysis does zero damage to the base metal, it only removes the iron oxide. Electrolysis is used as an archeological preservation method for ferrous historical artifacts, like ships and equipment, specifically because of this.
Maybe you could have used some large plastic bins submerged in the negative space between the frame rails to displace the liquid and submerged the entire frame?
You beat me to it i was about to say exactly the same, some large drums to fill the gaps to raise the evaporust liquid then no need to mess about turning the chassis
I've seen some great success with a mollases and water solution. 6:1 or 9:1 ratio. Maybe something to think about in future projects where rust removal without mechanical process is needed.
I am a mechanic and bicycle mechanic I have used Evaporust since it came out just before 2000. What attracted me was the non-toxic label and that fact that it degraded to neutral ph. It was a total miracle to me how well it worked! I still recall how shocked I was when I pulled out that formerly rusted bike chain that was then clean as a whistle! Love that stuff!
Would almond croissants and fig rolls still yield the same results - I was going to experiment but when I woke from my diabetic coma, they'd all vanished! @@eddchina
Hi Edd, have watched your programs for many years now. Just want to add my pennies worth. Live in Sweden now but grew up in Zambia (Northern Rhodesia) and cut my teeth on Land Rovers, from Mk1 to last model I had was 1998. Loathed Range Rover as a bush vehicle. Early 70’s they launched the model in Zambia. They fell apart and I mean literally. Aluminum panels cracked around door hinges. Windscreens were always cracking from body vibrations on bush roads not mention the fuel guzzling V8. The original Land Rover was a flexible, genius vehicle, as long as you avoided the 6 cylinder engine that ate Big end bearings. We always made 2 modifications to the LR though. There was a cross member under the gearbox that meant the interior had to be stripped out to remove the box. This we cut away, added 2 brackets on either side and bolted it in place. This allowed box removal from the underside. The other mod was very strong round bar/pipe protectors below and behind the front bumper. Saved your steering tie rods. Drove a few miles with excessive toe in after hitting tree stumps or small hard Ant hills in Elephant grass. Many thanks for your channel. Cheers
Been using evaporust for a few years on small projects and love it. It works even quicker in an ultrasonic cleaner, and quicker again when heated as mentioned.
Nobody else is going to be trying to save a chassis that’s rusted from the inside. They’ll just get a new chassis in that case. Everybody who actually needs to do rust removal on a whole chassis can just paint this stuff on.
Or as I said flow the stuff over the metal with an aquarium pump. Just as good as dipping and there might even be an advantage in the agitation effect.
Your level of explanation into processes makes even a non car guy interested. Never have been a car guy but always a fan even as a kid from wheeler dealers.
Hi Ed! Just a note to wish you a wonderful 2024 and to say how grateful I am to have found you again and reconnected. You’re knowledge, capabilities and passion to impart are so very refreshing!
A few small pumps could have been used to spray the section of frame above the liquid level. I've done this, along with old towels, on much smaller parts to keep the steel wet with the Evaporust. Works great!
A local machine shop my friend works at repurposed an old stripped down sand blast cabinet that wasn't airtight anymore and was going to be scrapped. They use a pond pump that feeds an array of plant sprinklers they attached all around the inside so it spray-bathes the part as it rotates on a turntable. They can de-rust reasonably large parts with only about 2 gallons of fluid!
anyone notice all the videos from Wheeler Dealers have been taken down...sounds like someone didnt have permission to upload them and make money from them! naughty naughty!
Wow, Ed you have been working on this project for as long as I have been working on my 1988 Porsche 951 ground up restoration project, and by the looks of your progress, you are not any closer to finishing this project than I am on mine. While you are spending thousands of dollars on evapo-rust, I am spending thousands of dollars on replacement parts for all worn out rubber and plastic parts not to mention the $20k on the engine rebuild and $5k on the transaxle rebuild. One things for sure, you and I have both proven that you can’t fully restore any vehicle without spending much more than the vehicle is worth to satisfy our own endeavors! Cheers, Ed, keep up the good work!
So glad you're back Edd! Absolutely loved the animation showing how the chemistry for the rust removal works. Thanks for the video and can't wait to see what's in store for next year!
Welcome back Edd. Might have been a good idea to place sealed drums in the gaps of the chassis to raise the level of the liquid to totally submerge it.
Edd China is the reason I wrench on cars! Had it not been for wheeler dealers (Edd, not Mike), I wouldn’t have had the courage to do my own work. Now I’m actually a millwright/mechanic. Thanks for everything Edd!
I use Evaporust too but it is crazy expensive here in Canada, but I read about a really good idea on some forum a year or so back to minimize the amount needed to submerge parts, Fill the pail with marbles and it greatly reduces the volume and allows easy addition and removal of parts, adding anything to take up space will work as others have suggested. Keep the videos coming Ed.
Cannot possibly thank you enough for the explanation of the different methods to remove rust! Definitely head and shoulders above the crowd of any other rust removal video I have seen, and I have seen all the big ones. I will definitely be using chelation even more than I was previously, thanks to you. Keep up the great work!
Thank you. Took a while to get this video over the line but I’m really chuffed with the results. Chelation is an amazing chemistry and just had to be shared! And the outside AND inside of our chassis are now completely rust free - galvanising next and that episode is nearly ready too. Thanks for watching…
As others have said, it’s great to have the sponsorship of this company, it’s sad you didn’t take full advantage of the process and available amount of the magic liquid. That pool was big enough to dunk the whole chasis at the same time, you just failed to displace the liquid by filling the open spaces around the chassis. This could’ve been accomplished with any number of things from sandbags to metal or weighted plastic boxes with airtight lids.
Just please don't abandone your Range for another five months, and make 25 videos about bars, food and stuff. Please. We need restorations. Find rusty, crappy, interesting cars, restore them fast, and you will be shocked, how many subscribers and views you will get. Stop doing some random stuff all over the place, polar bears etc. Do restorations
Your explanation of chelators and other processes are simply the best. I should know a thing or two about chelators - having used them medically my entire life. Also, adding strategic displacement volumes would help bring the level up.
A while back, I needed a rust removal product, and the choice ended up being between MC-51 (which I'd seen on another RUclips channel) and Evapo-rust. I went with MC-51 because it was sightly cheaper, and claimed to work much MUCH faster.... What I found is: Yes, MC-51 works - but it's NOT friendly to the metal if you over-soak it... I made the mistake of de-rusting a number of interchangable screwdriver bits - some of which were badly rusted - and whilst the MC-51 got rid of the rust, it also started pitting the bits quite substantially (maybe I should have read the instructions, eh?). From what I've seen of Evapo-rust; over-exposure simply does nothing - the reaction stops & that's it. So I shall definitely try Evapo-rust next. Something else maybe worth pointing out, especially given the large number of outraged comments at the price.... Yes, in bulk, it's extremely pricey, as are all rust treatments: But for 99% of us, 5 litres will last for years... I bought my 5ltr MC-51 about 5 years ago and I've only used maybe 1/3rd or 1/2 of it. Then again, I've not tried dunking a whole chassis.... One final thing: As a long-time viewer of the Hand Tool Rescue channel; which is long-term sponsored by Evapo-rust; a recent video of his noted that you can't use it with magnesium alloys. Spanish-inquisition style, another thing! Edd - when you sprayed that AQ90 stuff all over the chassis, wouldn't it have been easier to use a spray gun, such as you'd use when painting? Seems to me you'd have got better coverage with less overspray and a ton less effort! Good to see another long format video though, looking forward to plenty more in 2024!
Oil might keep the galvanizing from sticking. I used to work for a metal fab shop that had lots of parts galvanized and if we used soap stone or grease pencil on the metal, the galvanizing wouldn't stick and the plating company would charge extra to remove it.
@@ImhotepBE Acid doesn't dissolve oil. If they hot-dip galvanize, it might not be a problem. I'd give it a steam clean or detergent pressure wash before galvanizing if it were my project.
@@87mini im not talking about a heavy amount of oil, but you're 👍 if there is too much oil/contamination on the surface it's best to clean it off properly . Hot galvanising is good, but I have seen very bad ones when the surface wasn't cleaned properly. Have a good day 👍
Well, at least I feel somewhat vindicated. Back when you were shaking around that fuel tank trying to de-rust it, I made the suggestion that filling the tank completely with evaporust is what you needed to do. You took the time to respond and basically told me purchasing that much evaporust wouldn't be practical.. .and now you went and did this.
…well, you laid down a challenge and planted a seed! It was hard work setting up but a fun process to follow, amazing chemistry and fabulous results from the Evapo-Rust (and I can still de-rust a tonne of other things too). You were certainly right about filling up the tank too!!
Amazing process. One thought though, having had a spraying system, keeping the chassis damp all the time, would surely had needed less liquid. Great result and what is even more great, is to see you back in action. 2023 was a rough year, lost some dear ones and other set-backs occured, but hey, 2024 will be a blast of a year. Love from a Finn in Germany
Good to see you back Edd. Would've loved a Q&A, and also for the time it would've taken to weld on a patch to the hole and send it to the galvanisers I would've done that. Then you could've waited as long as you wanted. The chassis would never get rusty again.
Evaporust has saved many a tool that was left outside! I'm a hero in our house for using it to clean my wife's favourite garden clippers that were lost and then found in the garden. if you have rusted and seized pliers or diagonal cutters, soaking them for a few days will free them up - I was given several buckets of rusty tools from an old-timer's shed with a leaky roof - I wire wheeled off the heavy rust then finished them in Evaporust and they came out great! Donated them to a charity shop and they're back in use!
@@Eduardo_Espinoza Zinc phosphate solution, sold in paint stores as a surface preparation for painting metal. "Prep-Step", "Phospho-etch" and a number of others.
Thank you for the encouragement and enthusiasm! This is much more involved; but however, much more fascinating. I have had a.little bit of experience with Evaporust, and so far it makes for creative and driven restoration projects! I had to subscribe after watching this video. Glad to have come across a great channel!👍
Edd could have chosen the easier route but Edd decided to give us a neat chemistry lesson while we watch. Nice to see you Edd. Hopefully you'll get to 1 million subscribers very soon bud.
Glad you liked it, took nearly as long to do the stop-frame animation as it did to do the timelapse of the Evapo-Rust chelation process. Secret Life of Machines was great! Thanks.
Even as a Brit and longtime US resident, I’ve followed you since WD was shown stateside. Glad to see you doing well and I have subscribed, so don’t disappoint me. Looking forward to following the RR rebuild.
Glad to have you back Edd! Would have been good to have a pump firing the chemical through each of the frame ends which would have helped with agitating all the crud from the inside, also some big tubs to take up some of the volume of your swimming pool so that you didn't have to flip the frame. Was good to see the half and half grime line though!
The pumps would have been a great idea as you say, removing the crud during the process and the constant agitation would have probably sped things up a bit too. We did consider a bit of displacement to save time but the before and after tide mark was very interesting to see (and better explained the process) so I settled on the side of more time and hassle!! Thanks for watching…
I’ve used it a lot and been really happy with the results, the only failure being a bunch of small fasteners that were, I believe to have been clear sink plated, they massed into a green gluey glob, that was extremely difficult to remove. As others have mentioned, a series of weighted containers to displace the liquid, so it was completely covered. I always get that distinct tide line if I have to flip a part around, like you did. Lastly, how can you fail to mention the absurd cost of the volume you used.
First of all I would like to say it is so good to have you back in Workshop Diaries I hope this means we will see regular episodes from now on you have been missed As regards the Range Rover Chassis it is like you worked a miracle as the episode proceeded I was just gobsmacked when it gets galvanized it will be fantastic I wish you a Happy New Year Ed and look forward to the next episodes best wishes Andy Allen.
Thanks Andy, hoping to post slightly more episodes next year for sure! The Evapo-Rust works brilliantly and chelation is wonderful chemistry. Good news; the galvanising is already filmed (the chassis looks great btw) and that episode should be ready soon(ish)… Happy New Year to you and yours too!
I would just use sand blasting for the outside and for the inside of you really want to use evaporust just plug all the holes completely seal up the frame and fill it with evaporust. You will use the least amount this way. Evaporust is very expensive. Also there are online recipes for evaporust that are more effective and about 30 times cheaper per unit volume.
Using molasses is cheap and convenient if you are not in a hurry. It does not remove anything except rust from steel and the process is chelation which, by the way, you explained perfectly. I have restored a few 1920's cars as a hobby and they take a few years each so waiting a month or two for parts to be de-rusted while doing other jobs is fine. I had a few very heavily rusted disc wheels that took a year in the tank to be as clean as if they had been sandblasted and it cost next to nothing. Once all rust is removed I clean it with a high-pressure water blaster then quickly treat it with a phosphoric acid type metal cleaner to prevent re-rusting before painting. The dilution is unimportant, less water and it's quicker, . It can be reused many times, it just gets slower, my present tank has been in use for a couple of years and is still working. Disposal is not an issue.
Strangely John has been acting very excitedly recently too! Galvanising next (chassis looks great) and a few more Range Rover episodes already on their way… thanks for watching!
Edd is back! I'm so happy. I hope this content continues! Welcome back Edd and well done! I've missed your content. I hope all is well and wishing you a very happy 2024.
Is there a moral of the story - don't remove all the rust and then leave the metal untreated? I feel this is a revolutionary breakthrough in scientific knowledge.
@@eddchina If it weren't for epoxy primer, Project Binky would have reverted to a pile of rust 7 years ago. I hold out hope for a new video some time in the next decade.
@@eddchina If it weren't for epoxy primer, Project Binky would have reverted to a pile of rust 7 years ago. I hold out hope for a new video some time in the next decade.
Soo happy to see Edd back. Looks like 2024 will be a great year!!!! Great work on the explaining of chelation also in true Edd China tradition. Really hope everyone involved in the channel are alright and doing good. Love from Sweden.
Hello Sweden! Glad you enjoyed the chelation explanation, took a while to get it all together but it was fun trying stop-frame animation for the first time! More episodes on their way in 2024!…
You could have added objects into the tank to displace more of the fluid so you did not have to flip the frame, the only concern would be any air pockets. Using a pump to push fluid into the frame might eliminate that issue.
That frame might now actually be the very best part of that whole Range Rover! I for one no longer have any reservations regarding the rust on the inside. It's probably somewhere around 90 - 95% as strong as it was as new, which means it'll probably outlive all of us! And while the whole Range Rover project has been fun despite the delays, I have to wonder if the Ferrari that John may - or may not have purchased at the very end of this video, is a teaser for a sporty new project for future videos? Oh please, please, please!!!! : )
Thank you, yes the chassis is rather raising the bar for the rest of the project and wait until you see it galvanised (that video is on its way soon)! John really did buy the Ferrari and yes it will become another Workshop Diaries project… keep watching this space!!
If you galvanize by dipping I think the dipping company would want a quite clean chassis to work with . They would probably charge for cleaning , blasting , inside the tubes anyway . Just maybe Ed got a nice deal on the chemical and the company got some free advertising , but that is me being cynical ; besides Ed got another great video to show us lot ! Fair play , I will talking about this to my mates ..... Loads of ways to skin a cat , some better than others and this was high on , or at the top , of the list . Electrolysis might work , but you still end up with loose stuff in the tubes probably , with rattles on the road , unless more holes are drilled to shake it all out. I suppose you could apply a wax spray to stop rattles too ! Where do you stop, like this comment , sorry finding the mac now ....
@@davidyendoll5903 No need for cynicism. All You Tubers need some sponsorship, it's how they keep going. Especially with projects of the magnitude that Ed takes on.
I’ve use this stuff on small car parts and old guns. Works great! Also works if you use a pump to just keep it wet. Good for surface where you don’t have to get inside too.
I spent most of the year experimenting with most parts of the production process too and learning how to make a stop frame animation, and doing bits and pieces on all of the other projects… so definitely could have done this video quicker the old way but progress is always worth striving for!
@@eddchina How much of a team do you have working on this channel? I didn't realise how much you were doing yourself. I'd be interested in some behind the scenes kind of info
I just came across this Channel. Damn im so glad to see Ed again. I remember watching Wheeler Dealers back in the day. Sitting down with the lads and enjoying Eds brilliant work and chilaxed attitude..
A heated pressure washer and an empty swimming pool, recirculate the Evaporust, use a MUCH smaller quantity. It works so much quicker when agitated and heated. It works a treat in a heated ultrasonic cleaner within in minutes instead of hours and days depending on the parts.
Evaporust is top stuff for sure. You can get some excellent rewith it, especially in combination with an ultrasonic cleaner for smaller stuff. But, it's not cheap, you could have bought several new chassis for the cost of that pool of the stuff!
True, but remember our Evapo-Rust is still good for a few more chassis de-rusts yet! Love the idea of combining the chelating agent with an ultrasonic cleaner, will definitely try that some time… It was fun to try this process out and great to know the inside of our chassis is now sorted.
@@eddchina can you run the evaporust through any kind of filter to clean it up and maybe get a bit more use out of it or just make it easier to see what's going on?
Sorry to be nit-picking here, but if you are getting the chassis galvanised, the galvanising process involves pre-dipping (acid I believe, but technology may have moved on whilst not looking - you never know, they may have a olympic-sized swimming pool of evaporust at the galvanisers?? Much more HSE-friendly & extensively re-useable) which would appear to make the evaporust exercise both expensive and redundant?? Plus you wouldn't have to post-treat to prevent corrosion between this point and galvanising?? On the other hand, we wouldn't have seen this excellent example of how good Evaporust is for the smaller parts we lesser mortals might want to de-rust, so THANK YOU Edd for the illumination and laughs. PS - which Lager is it??
Don’t worry, can’t stop the restoration at this point. Already filmed the galvanising process (the chassis looks great btw) so that episode should be ready soon(ish)…
Please add USA fulfillment for merchandise ... $32 for shipping means we really can't buy T-shirts, and I'd definitely be purchasing a few Need for Tea shirts.
thanks for getting back to doing some original content! very much want to see some more about whatever projects you're working on! Happy Holidays and New Years!
This is the content that Wheeler Dealers is missing at the moment in my personal opinion. Thank you Edd for making your content accessible on RUclips and have a good 2024.
Why not use electrolysis? It’s my favourite on not too big (very) rusty objects and works effortless. You only need a bucket (swimming pool) of water, washing soda, a battery charger and an scrap piece of steel. Amazing result too and almost for free!
That was actually my original plan but as electrolysis works by line of sight and I wanted to de-rust the inside of the chassis (I was hoping to string a cable, insulated by practise golf balls, through the centre of each rail). Unfortunately the chassis is full of baffles so the Evapo-Rust solved the problem more effectively. I’ll certainly try it on some other Range Rover parts though…
2 totes is $12K CAD, not to mention how many smaller jugs were used when starting the fill of the pool. The material is essentially spent, based on the colour, at the end of the project (piece/part). Reducing the volume of the active material, such as reducing the pool/container size to fit the project better, does not dismiss how much product is required for the amount of rust to be removed. I would think that some low volume circulation pumps may better distribute the product for efficiency. If that was exampled, I think the inner frame may have been "cleared up" a little more (not really shown). All of the above being said, I use the product often on small to medium parts for surface rust. Just my 2 cents.
Unlikely. I've used the product for years now for auto restorations....24 hour soak and some light agitation is all it needs to eat through the worst rust. It really is a life-saver when trying to save small, delicate metal objects that may not react well to harsher methods. If that frame was in there for three days, 99% of that rust is gone.
@@Halliday7895 If you are talking about the "dark residue" at 31:02 or so, that appears to be paint or some sort of coating, not rust, which Evaporust won't affect. Have you ever used the product?
as an extension to the list mentioned around 18:20ish one important note is that it is NOT safe for magnesium alloys like some wheels or other parts. With that said, i freaking love E-R, been using it for a few years now.
Edd! You were the reason we've loved the original Wheeler Dealers! This project was epic! We too have just discovered Evaporust and are currently using it to restore an antique copy press. Do you have a video on powder coating vs. Spray paint (rustoleum)? Loving your content in Utah!
Thanks. Evapo-Rust is indeed brilliant stuff, good luck with the press. Next process for the chassis is galvanising and then powder coating (video being edited as we speak)! Would definitely be good to compare wet and dry paint sometime too… Hello Utah! Thanks for watching!
Not all the Rustoleum paints are the same... I used one to paint an aux 5g fuel tank for my Harley for long distance rides and found out the first time I filled up that that particular product was not fuel-resistant... It was one of the hammer finish oil based paints... It looked good, but only until the first bit of gas got on it when I filled it up the first time... I had a powder coated winch bumper on a Jeep XJ that I used to own and determined that powdercoating is not necessarily that great either... When you get a rock chip, it lets water get under the powercoat and eventually it forms a bubble of rust and then the next thing you know, you have a spot flaking off that is a couple of inches in diameter... Conclusion? Nothing is perfect... Each has its advantages and disadvantages...
I work for a Battleship Museum in the southern US. We use evaporust a lot. Great stuff. And for those questioning the cost, this was just a fun way of showing off the product. I don’t think anyone expects people to do this. Though I do have a Sherman tank I’d like to make water tight and fill with evaporust…if anyone is listening…
Well lads... If it's coming out of your own pocket to remove rust... Try 1935 Litres of white vinegar... (Around $600.00) OR... 1935 Litres of Industrial Molasses...(Around $900.00) Build a big crate out of some pallets and line it with plastic How well both of these work will utterly amaze and surprise you! Vinegar works overnight or maybe a day or so... The Molasses takes a little longer... Bawb DARES you to try it Edd! 😁
Edd, why didn't you use displacement to bring the level up enough to cover the entire chassis? If you want to get to 1 million keep on bringing out new content such as this. This one came up in my notifications so I don't know why people are saying it isn't showing up. Looking forward to the next instalment.
Thanks. Yes displacement would have made a load of sense but it was really cool to see the before and after difference so starkly! Galvanising video will be up soon…
just a tip, and this works for big and small jobs, if you want to reduce how much evapo rust you need just displace some of it by putting some objects in the liquid around the item. In this case you could have had some buckets of water etc. For some jobs I have used a waterproof camping bags where it was a flat bike rack etc. Be creative :)
Damn! Is this a rerun or an actual new episode? I hope it’s the latter! In that case: yahoo!! Welcome back old friend! If it’s the first: glad to see you’re still alive! 22:40 that was annoyingly smart! I thought about how you would go about turning it around and that was bloody clever! And great soundtrack!
Yes it really is a brand new episode. And it’s about the Range Rover too! How much of a Christmas gift is that?! Lazy is often the mother of Smart! Glad you liked the music too, I had lots of fun choosing it!
@@eddchina So glad to see you around again, mate!! I don't even know you yet I _have_ known you for ages. Don't want to tout your horn too much, it will just make you feel uncomfortable, but you have amassed a huge following of which I am one. Look forward to more my friend!
I don’t get it. When the chassis gets to the galvanising works it is dipped in an acid bath prior to galvanising so why duplicate the first part of the process? Cheers !
Just an idea would be to carefully place a few large objects in the pool to raise the liquid level, this would probably use less of Evapo-Rust and reduce the process time. Really enjoy your work Edd. Thank you!
Clean 20-litre cans of oil... heavier than water.
Anything, even bags full of water.
Perhaps a waterbed mattress.
I was about to comment the same, a few buckets weighted down with sand would do.
I'll just put mine here so.. Could have placed a stack of blocks in the centre, reduced the required volume by at least a third.. or place the whole chassis in a thick bag like the tarp mentioned below, in and outlets for the Evaporust..
You could have filled those 5 litre containers with water and placed them into the pool so as to raise the liquid level high enough to cover the entire chassis in one go. It's just a thought!
And a pretty good thought it was .
Ain’t that been proved before in a bathtub, by some famous guy
smart arse ain't ya
@@Soapy555Erika Johnson wasn't it?
Came here to say the same thing. Or large garbage bags full of water.
I've used Evaporust for over ten years and it works outstandingly. Having a 500 gallon dip tank is nice, but not very economical. The method I use is a recirculating pump with a small shower head and a small container to catch the material. I've done large projects like bumpers and axles that way. It would reduce the material use down to a couple hundred dollars at most.
Brilliant
That's an idea to keep in mind! Very smart way to get more done with less
But it seems like interior rust is the biggest worry here, does your spray method let you get material inside the parts?
@@markdoldon8852 Haven't specifically tried it but it should be just as easy. Just need to build a nozzle adapter. Could be a simple plugged hose with holes drilled in it. Just need to splash as much as possible over the rust and continuously recirculate it.
Howdy does the stuff come in gel form for brushing on? Anyone know if available in Oz?
For those of us who are not sponsored by CRC, that's about $15,000 worth of Evaporust.
Yup, I did the math as well.
That'd be one hella expensive frame restoration.
Yah. I think I would just get a nice new galvanised chassis. Good Evaporust commercial though 😉
At least. I spent $90 to fill a small 5 gallon bucket part way!!! It's $40 a gallon here.
I think you could have sent it out to be hot dip galvanized instead as an alternative vs buying a new frame or using Evaporust.
It’s a bonkers use case. Pointless really
You could raise the level in the pool without having to use more evapo-rust. Get some large plastic tubs, and put them floating on the surface of the evapo rust in the free space in the pool. Then fill the plastic tubs with either water, some breeze blocks, or just anything at all to weigh them down. The tubs will displace the evapo rust in the pool, causing the level to rise. Same idea as those "water saving hippos" that you can get to put in the cistern of your toilet, to reduce water usage.
Well doh.
I said the same thing as you until i read your statement so i deleted mine. There is another way, he could have rotated the chassis 90 degrees so it is hung on its side instead then he could have used a pool one forth the size of the pool he used.
Yep, I'd just started typing that when I noticed your post.
Didn't really matter when it was sponsored by it.
your reading my mind lol, i would've used bricks lol
I am a huge fan of evaporust! Started using it almost 2 years ago on the motorcycle restorations I've done. Especially the inside of gas tanks. I have found that cleaning the parts of grease and oil first helps preserve the evaporust. You gave the best scientific explanation of the magic that happens I've heard.
Best use of stale crossaint and dog treats ever
Getting grease, oil, paint and loose rust off first is much better for the process and does make the stuff last a lot longer.
Look into electrolysis. It's all but free, does a better job and doesn't stink after.
@@otm646eletrólise corroe o metal junto com a ferrugem e pode abrir um buraco no que você estiver tirando ferrugem com eletrólise, vai por mim em uma restauração o que você não quer é peças danificadas por uma maneira de remover ferrugem que poderia ser totalmente evitável ! 🥴
@@matheustoddynho That is absolutely not true. Electrolysis does zero damage to the base metal, it only removes the iron oxide.
Electrolysis is used as an archeological preservation method for ferrous historical artifacts, like ships and equipment, specifically because of this.
Maybe you could have used some large plastic bins submerged in the negative space between the frame rails to displace the liquid and submerged the entire frame?
You beat me to it i was about to say exactly the same, some large drums to fill the gaps to raise the evaporust liquid then no need to mess about turning the chassis
Yup. That's what I was thinking (great minds think alike :) )
That's what I was going to say. I can't believe Edd didn't think of that.
See my comment above. Plastic bins would work, but theywould need ballast to sink.
I've seen some great success with a mollases and water solution. 6:1 or 9:1 ratio. Maybe something to think about in future projects where rust removal without mechanical process is needed.
I am a mechanic and bicycle mechanic I have used Evaporust since it came out just before 2000. What attracted me was the non-toxic label and that fact that it degraded to neutral ph. It was a total miracle to me how well it worked! I still recall how shocked I was when I pulled out that formerly rusted bike chain that was then clean as a whistle! Love that stuff!
Evapo-Rust is amazing! Can’t believe it took me so long to find it myself! The transformations are wondrous and very satisfying…
Would almond croissants and fig rolls still yield the same results - I was going to experiment but when I woke from my diabetic coma, they'd all vanished! @@eddchina
@@dancarter482 test inconclusive: you forgot the scotch eggs ;)
@@DT-dc4br The essential pork/life balance; yes, of course. Galileo meets Archimedes on a muggy night ... . ..
Hi Edd, have watched your programs for many years now. Just want to add my pennies worth. Live in Sweden now but grew up in Zambia (Northern Rhodesia) and cut my teeth on Land Rovers, from Mk1 to last model I had was 1998. Loathed Range Rover as a bush vehicle. Early 70’s they launched the model in Zambia. They fell apart and I mean literally. Aluminum panels cracked around door hinges. Windscreens were always cracking from body vibrations on bush roads not mention the fuel guzzling V8. The original Land Rover was a flexible, genius vehicle, as long as you avoided the 6 cylinder engine that ate Big end bearings. We always made 2 modifications to the LR though. There was a cross member under the gearbox that meant the interior had to be stripped out to remove the box. This we cut away, added 2 brackets on either side and bolted it in place. This allowed box removal from the underside. The other mod was very strong round bar/pipe protectors below and behind the front bumper. Saved your steering tie rods. Drove a few miles with excessive toe in after hitting tree stumps or small hard Ant hills in Elephant grass. Many thanks for your channel. Cheers
Been using evaporust for a few years on small projects and love it. It works even quicker in an ultrasonic cleaner, and quicker again when heated as mentioned.
Thanks. Someone else mentioned ultrasonic cleaning with Evapo-Rust, looking forward to trying that out some time…
Nice to see you back Edd, really missed this! Hope all is well, and thanks for the new content.
You’re welcome, been a complicated year but more content already filmed and should be edited soon… thanks for watching
@@eddchinaso u are back then that’s good to hear have a good new year edd
@@eddchina Don't be afraid to put out an update video next time, so we won't left guessing in the dark. This is not TV, this is RUclips.
@@eddchina Good to see you're back at it Edd! Looking forward to many more episodes of Workshop Diaries.
@@eddchina reading this after watching your latest really does warm my soul ❤
Watched this channel for the first time ever and it ended up being a 36 minute infomercial for Evaporust.
Haa! Me too. Surely this video should be marked as an ad?
No one is going to do this. You bring the thing to an acid dipper for 3 to 5 hundred bucks tops.
Me too 🤦🏻♂️
Nobody else is going to be trying to save a chassis that’s rusted from the inside. They’ll just get a new chassis in that case.
Everybody who actually needs to do rust removal on a whole chassis can just paint this stuff on.
Or as I said flow the stuff over the metal with an aquarium pump. Just as good as dipping and there might even be an advantage in the agitation effect.
I love the way Ed works and explains at the same time it keeps program moving, unlike the shows where the hosts talk to the camera all the time
So true...
Yep, other channels flash up a graphic for 2 seconds then it’s back to their face again 😑 so much unnecessary rewinding….
Your level of explanation into processes makes even a non car guy interested. Never have been a car guy but always a fan even as a kid from wheeler dealers.
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoy the episodes, it’s fun exploring new stuff so happy to share!
Thanks for sharing edd really injoy your videos ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Hi Ed! Just a note to wish you a wonderful 2024 and to say how grateful I am to have found you again and reconnected. You’re knowledge, capabilities and passion to impart are so very refreshing!
Thanks, it’s been a tough year (for so many on and off YT). ‘24 will bring many more episodes for you all!
A few small pumps could have been used to spray the section of frame above the liquid level. I've done this, along with old towels, on much smaller parts to keep the steel wet with the Evaporust. Works great!
A local machine shop my friend works at repurposed an old stripped down sand blast cabinet that wasn't airtight anymore and was going to be scrapped. They use a pond pump that feeds an array of plant sprinklers they attached all around the inside so it spray-bathes the part as it rotates on a turntable. They can de-rust reasonably large parts with only about 2 gallons of fluid!
Or drop in some inert objects in the big space in the middle of the chassis that will displace some chemical and raise the level in the tank.
@@DEADB33FBrilliant idea!
@@DEADB33F Something like Mike Brewer?
Well done for explaining the chemistry. So few of these rust removal videos make any attempt at this.
Took me a while to chase down exactly how the magic worked (the stop frame took even longer)!
@eddchina the stop motion was amazing. That is no small feat.
@@eddchina Did the stop frame material get turned into part of a buffet?
Your time was well spent. We all need to know this stuff and you did a wonderful illustration. @@eddchina
anyone notice all the videos from Wheeler Dealers have been taken down...sounds like someone didnt have permission to upload them and make money from them! naughty naughty!
A problem with doing this is that every other steel item in the workshop will nag on your mind for de-rusting treatment.
That's what the big tanks are for ?
This is a 35 minute long, ad, with other ads throughout. I get the point, but the product placement is getting in the way of actual content.
Wow, Ed you have been working on this project for as long as I have been working on my 1988 Porsche 951 ground up restoration project, and by the looks of your progress, you are not any closer to finishing this project than I am on mine. While you are spending thousands of dollars on evapo-rust, I am spending thousands of dollars on replacement parts for all worn out rubber and plastic parts not to mention the $20k on the engine rebuild and $5k on the transaxle rebuild. One things for sure, you and I have both proven that you can’t fully restore any vehicle without spending much more than the vehicle is worth to satisfy our own endeavors! Cheers, Ed, keep up the good work!
So glad you're back Edd! Absolutely loved the animation showing how the chemistry for the rust removal works. Thanks for the video and can't wait to see what's in store for next year!
Thanks. Galvanising is next for a start and we may well have a look at John’s cheeky new purchase too! Thanks for watching!
Welcome back Edd.
Might have been a good idea to place sealed drums in the gaps of the chassis to raise the level of the liquid to totally submerge it.
Displacement would save a lot of fluid (or time) but it was good to see the before and after so clearly!
@@eddchinathat's a good point
Might have been a good idea to get some paint on it in the first place!
Edd China is the reason I wrench on cars! Had it not been for wheeler dealers (Edd, not Mike), I wouldn’t have had the courage to do my own work. Now I’m actually a millwright/mechanic. Thanks for everything Edd!
I use Evaporust too but it is crazy expensive here in Canada, but I read about a really good idea on some forum a year or so back to minimize the amount needed to submerge parts, Fill the pail with marbles and it greatly reduces the volume and allows easy addition and removal of parts, adding anything to take up space will work as others have suggested. Keep the videos coming Ed.
Cannot possibly thank you enough for the explanation of the different methods to remove rust! Definitely head and shoulders above the crowd of any other rust removal video I have seen, and I have seen all the big ones. I will definitely be using chelation even more than I was previously, thanks to you. Keep up the great work!
Thank you. Took a while to get this video over the line but I’m really chuffed with the results. Chelation is an amazing chemistry and just had to be shared! And the outside AND inside of our chassis are now completely rust free - galvanising next and that episode is nearly ready too. Thanks for watching…
As others have said, it’s great to have the sponsorship of this company, it’s sad you didn’t take full advantage of the process and available amount of the magic liquid. That pool was big enough to dunk the whole chasis at the same time, you just failed to displace the liquid by filling the open spaces around the chassis. This could’ve been accomplished with any number of things from sandbags to metal or weighted plastic boxes with airtight lids.
Just please don't abandone your Range for another five months, and make 25 videos about bars, food and stuff. Please. We need restorations. Find rusty, crappy, interesting cars, restore them fast, and you will be shocked, how many subscribers and views you will get. Stop doing some random stuff all over the place, polar bears etc. Do restorations
"wah wah wah. Only make videos about what I want to see!" You couldn't sound more like a child if you tried.
@@jp18449
Sorry....... who's the child?
@@samkirk3662 You, seeing as you don't know what quotation marks are.
@jp18449 looks like we caught 1.
How's it go...... was wah wah?
Yep, you caught one!
Your explanation of chelators and other processes are simply the best. I should know a thing or two about chelators - having used them medically my entire life. Also, adding strategic displacement volumes would help bring the level up.
I used a catheter before too.
A while back, I needed a rust removal product, and the choice ended up being between MC-51 (which I'd seen on another RUclips channel) and Evapo-rust. I went with MC-51 because it was sightly cheaper, and claimed to work much MUCH faster....
What I found is: Yes, MC-51 works - but it's NOT friendly to the metal if you over-soak it... I made the mistake of de-rusting a number of interchangable screwdriver bits - some of which were badly rusted - and whilst the MC-51 got rid of the rust, it also started pitting the bits quite substantially (maybe I should have read the instructions, eh?). From what I've seen of Evapo-rust; over-exposure simply does nothing - the reaction stops & that's it. So I shall definitely try Evapo-rust next.
Something else maybe worth pointing out, especially given the large number of outraged comments at the price.... Yes, in bulk, it's extremely pricey, as are all rust treatments: But for 99% of us, 5 litres will last for years... I bought my 5ltr MC-51 about 5 years ago and I've only used maybe 1/3rd or 1/2 of it. Then again, I've not tried dunking a whole chassis....
One final thing: As a long-time viewer of the Hand Tool Rescue channel; which is long-term sponsored by Evapo-rust; a recent video of his noted that you can't use it with magnesium alloys.
Spanish-inquisition style, another thing! Edd - when you sprayed that AQ90 stuff all over the chassis, wouldn't it have been easier to use a spray gun, such as you'd use when painting? Seems to me you'd have got better coverage with less overspray and a ton less effort! Good to see another long format video though, looking forward to plenty more in 2024!
Oil might keep the galvanizing from sticking. I used to work for a metal fab shop that had lots of parts galvanized and if we used soap stone or grease pencil on the metal, the galvanizing wouldn't stick and the plating company would charge extra to remove it.
Next episode, 'Dunking Our Rusty 1986 Range Rover Chassis in 1935 Litres of brake cleaner'.
first they dip the metal in the acid, so any contaminations like oil etc should be ok
@@ImhotepBE Acid doesn't dissolve oil. If they hot-dip galvanize, it might not be a problem. I'd give it a steam clean or detergent pressure wash before galvanizing if it were my project.
@@87mini im not talking about a heavy amount of oil, but you're 👍 if there is too much oil/contamination on the surface it's best to clean it off properly . Hot galvanising is good, but I have seen very bad ones when the surface wasn't cleaned properly.
Have a good day 👍
Well, at least I feel somewhat vindicated. Back when you were shaking around that fuel tank trying to de-rust it, I made the suggestion that filling the tank completely with evaporust is what you needed to do. You took the time to respond and basically told me purchasing that much evaporust wouldn't be practical.. .and now you went and did this.
…well, you laid down a challenge and planted a seed! It was hard work setting up but a fun process to follow, amazing chemistry and fabulous results from the Evapo-Rust (and I can still de-rust a tonne of other things too). You were certainly right about filling up the tank too!!
Shoulda filled those empty evapo rust bottles up with water and chucked em in the pool to raise the level of the evaporust.
1935 litres of evaporust at retail prices being around six times greater than the cost of a brand new galvanised chassis
You may have me on that point!
🤪🤣🤣🤣🥸 good man Edd... keep going, ye might get it done quicker than the Binky lads😛
You can reuse it though, so it's an investment.
@@philtowle46832:32 would suggest maybe not so much, looks very ‘used’? I dunno maybe it doesn’t matter.
@eddchina He HAS got you on "that point".
Really pleased to see you back Edd, you are certainly back on form. Looking forward to your next video which will hopefully not be too far away.
From having the dream job as a mechanic, working with Mike on WD to putting out a few short videos on here, what went wrong with your head Edd
Amazing process. One thought though, having had a spraying system, keeping the chassis damp all the time, would surely had needed less liquid. Great result and what is even more great, is to see you back in action. 2023 was a rough year, lost some dear ones and other set-backs occured, but hey, 2024 will be a blast of a year. Love from a Finn in Germany
Good to see you back Edd. Would've loved a Q&A, and also for the time it would've taken to weld on a patch to the hole and send it to the galvanisers I would've done that. Then you could've waited as long as you wanted. The chassis would never get rusty again.
Don’t worry, that is all for a future episode, already filmed most of it!! Glad you enjoyed the episode!
Evaporust has saved many a tool that was left outside! I'm a hero in our house for using it to clean my wife's favourite garden clippers that were lost and then found in the garden. if you have rusted and seized pliers or diagonal cutters, soaking them for a few days will free them up - I was given several buckets of rusty tools from an old-timer's shed with a leaky roof - I wire wheeled off the heavy rust then finished them in Evaporust and they came out great! Donated them to a charity shop and they're back in use!
Always use a rust inhibitor after you've cleaned all the rust, it will give you some time to patch and prime the chassis before flash rust sets in.
is AC50 like WD-40?
I’d suggest Wurth Zinc Perfect primer. It leaves only zinc.
@@Eduardo_Espinoza Zinc phosphate solution, sold in paint stores as a surface preparation for painting metal. "Prep-Step", "Phospho-etch" and a number of others.
tnx :)@@87mini
Orthophosphoric acid?
Wait, is this actually a new episode? 😆 Welcome back Edd, we've missed you terribly!
You wait all year for a new episode and two turn up only a few months apart! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the encouragement and enthusiasm! This is much more involved; but however, much more fascinating. I have had a.little bit of experience with Evaporust, and so far it makes for creative and driven restoration projects! I had to subscribe after watching this video. Glad to have come across a great channel!👍
Edd could have chosen the easier route but Edd decided to give us a neat chemistry lesson while we watch. Nice to see you Edd. Hopefully you'll get to 1 million subscribers very soon bud.
Thank you for noticing! It’s such beautiful chemistry too. Hoping the million subs won’t be too far away as I have some fun ideas on how to celebrate!
Yay! back in the shop! I love the rust explanation animation, reminded me of the "Secret Life of Machines" with Tim Hunkin, Remember? Thanks Edd!
Glad you liked it, took nearly as long to do the stop-frame animation as it did to do the timelapse of the Evapo-Rust chelation process. Secret Life of Machines was great! Thanks.
As the owner of a 1971 lightweight on a galvanised chassis loving the chassis work great to watch 😊
Even as a Brit and longtime US resident, I’ve followed you since WD was shown stateside. Glad to see you doing well and I have subscribed, so don’t disappoint me. Looking forward to following the RR rebuild.
Thank you, Range Rover rebuild will continue with the chassis being galvanised (it looks great btw), so that episode should be ready soon(ish)…
Glad to have you back Edd! Would have been good to have a pump firing the chemical through each of the frame ends which would have helped with agitating all the crud from the inside, also some big tubs to take up some of the volume of your swimming pool so that you didn't have to flip the frame. Was good to see the half and half grime line though!
The pumps would have been a great idea as you say, removing the crud during the process and the constant agitation would have probably sped things up a bit too.
We did consider a bit of displacement to save time but the before and after tide mark was very interesting to see (and better explained the process) so I settled on the side of more time and hassle!!
Thanks for watching…
Ed China. You don’t treat your audience like idiots and expect them to follow along with the chemistry. Kudos to you for that!
I’ve used it a lot and been really happy with the results, the only failure being a bunch of small fasteners that were, I believe to have been clear sink plated, they massed into a green gluey glob, that was extremely difficult to remove. As others have mentioned, a series of weighted containers to displace the liquid, so it was completely covered. I always get that distinct tide line if I have to flip a part around, like you did. Lastly, how can you fail to mention the absurd cost of the volume you used.
First of all I would like to say it is so good to have you back in Workshop Diaries I hope this means we will see regular episodes from now on you have been missed As regards the Range Rover Chassis it is like you worked a miracle as the episode proceeded I was just gobsmacked when it gets galvanized it will be fantastic I wish you a Happy New Year Ed and look forward to the next episodes best wishes Andy Allen.
Thanks Andy, hoping to post slightly more episodes next year for sure! The Evapo-Rust works brilliantly and chelation is wonderful chemistry.
Good news; the galvanising is already filmed (the chassis looks great btw) and that episode should be ready soon(ish)…
Happy New Year to you and yours too!
I would just use sand blasting for the outside and for the inside of you really want to use evaporust just plug all the holes completely seal up the frame and fill it with evaporust. You will use the least amount this way. Evaporust is very expensive. Also there are online recipes for evaporust that are more effective and about 30 times cheaper per unit volume.
It’s also a lot cheaper in bulk! Lot of holes to plug but a good idea. I was considering making a ‘body bag’ for it but not very visual!
Welcome back Edd. Missed these!!
This is Project Farm level off the chart.... good effort Ed, Hope other brands trust in you and see more videos like this...
It's good stuff, but for the price and then the galvanising. Well you could have bought a new galvanised chassis.
Yeah we'd love to see more half hour adverts dressed up as content 😂
Using molasses is cheap and convenient if you are not in a hurry. It does not remove anything except rust from steel and the process is chelation which, by the way, you explained perfectly.
I have restored a few 1920's cars as a hobby and they take a few years each so waiting a month or two for parts to be de-rusted while doing other jobs is fine. I had a few very heavily rusted disc wheels that took a year in the tank to be as clean as if they had been sandblasted and it cost next to nothing. Once all rust is removed I clean it with a high-pressure water blaster then quickly treat it with a phosphoric acid type metal cleaner to prevent re-rusting before painting.
The dilution is unimportant, less water and it's quicker, . It can be reused many times, it just gets slower, my present tank has been in use for a couple of years and is still working. Disposal is not an issue.
Excellent well worth the wait. Interesting process. Great to see the Range Rover back. Looking forward to the rebuild.
Strangely John has been acting very excitedly recently too! Galvanising next (chassis looks great) and a few more Range Rover episodes already on their way… thanks for watching!
Edd is back! I'm so happy. I hope this content continues! Welcome back Edd and well done! I've missed your content. I hope all is well and wishing you a very happy 2024.
Phosphoric acid do the job easy and convert rust inside and out , another concern is to rince up to get PH 7 and dry
Is there a moral of the story - don't remove all the rust and then leave the metal untreated? I feel this is a revolutionary breakthrough in scientific knowledge.
It is a point worth noting - if a job is worth doing, you might as well finish it promptly!
@@eddchina If it weren't for epoxy primer, Project Binky would have reverted to a pile of rust 7 years ago. I hold out hope for a new video some time in the next decade.
@@eddchina If it weren't for epoxy primer, Project Binky would have reverted to a pile of rust 7 years ago. I hold out hope for a new video some time in the next decade.
Soo happy to see Edd back. Looks like 2024 will be a great year!!!! Great work on the explaining of chelation also in true Edd China tradition. Really hope everyone involved in the channel are alright and doing good. Love from Sweden.
Hello Sweden! Glad you enjoyed the chelation explanation, took a while to get it all together but it was fun trying stop-frame animation for the first time! More episodes on their way in 2024!…
You could have added objects into the tank to displace more of the fluid so you did not have to flip the frame, the only concern would be any air pockets. Using a pump to push fluid into the frame might eliminate that issue.
Wow even the last clean off was a big difference!
It’s interesting how the Evapo-Rust dries slightly darker, makes the final reveal after washing even more satisfying!
That frame might now actually be the very best part of that whole Range Rover! I for one no longer have any reservations regarding the rust on the inside. It's probably somewhere around 90 - 95% as strong as it was as new, which means it'll probably outlive all of us! And while the whole Range Rover project has been fun despite the delays, I have to wonder if the Ferrari that John may - or may not have purchased at the very end of this video, is a teaser for a sporty new project for future videos? Oh please, please, please!!!! : )
Thank you, yes the chassis is rather raising the bar for the rest of the project and wait until you see it galvanised (that video is on its way soon)!
John really did buy the Ferrari and yes it will become another Workshop Diaries project… keep watching this space!!
If you galvanize by dipping I think the dipping company would want a quite clean chassis to work with . They would probably charge for cleaning , blasting , inside the tubes anyway . Just maybe Ed got a nice deal on the chemical and the company got some free advertising , but that is me being cynical ; besides Ed got another great video to show us lot ! Fair play , I will talking about this to my mates ..... Loads of ways to skin a cat , some better than others and this was high on , or at the top , of the list . Electrolysis might work , but you still end up with loose stuff in the tubes probably , with rattles on the road , unless more holes are drilled to shake it all out. I suppose you could apply a wax spray to stop rattles too ! Where do you stop, like this comment , sorry finding the mac now ....
@@davidyendoll5903 No need for cynicism. All You Tubers need some sponsorship, it's how they keep going. Especially with projects of the magnitude that Ed takes on.
@@eddchina Definitely want to see lots more on the gt4!
I’ve use this stuff on small car parts and old guns. Works great! Also works if you use a pump to just keep it wet. Good for surface where you don’t have to get inside too.
Great to see the Range Rover chassis again, after seeing that excellent diagram I can see where the last year or so has gone!
I spent most of the year experimenting with most parts of the production process too and learning how to make a stop frame animation, and doing bits and pieces on all of the other projects… so definitely could have done this video quicker the old way but progress is always worth striving for!
@@eddchina How much of a team do you have working on this channel? I didn't realise how much you were doing yourself. I'd be interested in some behind the scenes kind of info
Absolutely fantastic to see you back Edd.
Thank you!
I just came across this Channel. Damn im so glad to see Ed again. I remember watching Wheeler Dealers back in the day. Sitting down with the lads and enjoying Eds brilliant work and chilaxed attitude..
A heated pressure washer and an empty swimming pool, recirculate the Evaporust, use a MUCH smaller quantity. It works so much quicker when agitated and heated. It works a treat in a heated ultrasonic cleaner within in minutes instead of hours and days depending on the parts.
Evaporust is top stuff for sure. You can get some excellent rewith it, especially in combination with an ultrasonic cleaner for smaller stuff.
But, it's not cheap, you could have bought several new chassis for the cost of that pool of the stuff!
True, but remember our Evapo-Rust is still good for a few more chassis de-rusts yet! Love the idea of combining the chelating agent with an ultrasonic cleaner, will definitely try that some time…
It was fun to try this process out and great to know the inside of our chassis is now sorted.
@@eddchina can you run the evaporust through any kind of filter to clean it up and maybe get a bit more use out of it or just make it easier to see what's going on?
Sorry to be nit-picking here, but if you are getting the chassis galvanised, the galvanising process involves pre-dipping (acid I believe, but technology may have moved on whilst not looking - you never know, they may have a olympic-sized swimming pool of evaporust at the galvanisers?? Much more HSE-friendly & extensively re-useable) which would appear to make the evaporust exercise both expensive and redundant?? Plus you wouldn't have to post-treat to prevent corrosion between this point and galvanising?? On the other hand, we wouldn't have seen this excellent example of how good Evaporust is for the smaller parts we lesser mortals might want to de-rust, so THANK YOU Edd for the illumination and laughs. PS - which Lager is it??
A new video?!? A belated Christmas present. Good to see you again Edd! Keep them coming!
Don’t say I never spoil you! Hope you had a great Christmas, wishing you a fab New Year! More Range Rover madness coming soon(ish)!
Nice to see fresh content Edd please keep them Rover restoration videos coming 😁😁👍👍
Don’t worry, can’t stop the restoration at this point. Already filmed the galvanising process (the chassis looks great btw) so that episode should be ready soon(ish)…
Please add USA fulfillment for merchandise ... $32 for shipping means we really can't buy T-shirts, and I'd definitely be purchasing a few Need for Tea shirts.
Glad you're finally getting on with the Range Rover.. looking forward to more episodes! 👍
Happy New Year!
thanks for getting back to doing some original content! very much want to see some more about whatever projects you're working on! Happy Holidays and New Years!
Plenty more Range Rover to come and perhaps a dash of John’s new Ferrari too!..
I miss Mike badgering Edd to completely restore a vehicle in .5 hours 😢
This is the content that Wheeler Dealers is missing at the moment in my personal opinion. Thank you Edd for making your content accessible on RUclips and have a good 2024.
i see all the old Wheeler Dealers content has now gone.. i am a hoping this means some new content soon. i hope we get to se more with the Range Rover
just a legal takedown...uploaded with out permission
Why didn't you fill large totes with water to increase your coverage? You could've used water filled barrels or totes as displacers.
36 minute "Evaporust" advert!
Why not use electrolysis?
It’s my favourite on not too big (very) rusty objects and works effortless. You only need a bucket (swimming pool) of water, washing soda, a battery charger and an scrap piece of steel. Amazing result too and almost for free!
That's no way to get sponsored.
@@csn583🤔😅 Maybe someone can use it as a top-tip then 😎
That was actually my original plan but as electrolysis works by line of sight and I wanted to de-rust the inside of the chassis (I was hoping to string a cable, insulated by practise golf balls, through the centre of each rail). Unfortunately the chassis is full of baffles so the Evapo-Rust solved the problem more effectively.
I’ll certainly try it on some other Range Rover parts though…
@@eddchinaThanks for your response and explanation. Of course you have thought it through thoroughly 👍🏻
2 totes is $12K CAD, not to mention how many smaller jugs were used when starting the fill of the pool. The material is essentially spent, based on the colour, at the end of the project (piece/part). Reducing the volume of the active material, such as reducing the pool/container size to fit the project better, does not dismiss how much product is required for the amount of rust to be removed. I would think that some low volume circulation pumps may better distribute the product for efficiency. If that was exampled, I think the inner frame may have been "cleared up" a little more (not really shown). All of the above being said, I use the product often on small to medium parts for surface rust. Just my 2 cents.
At this rate it will Be ready for Johns not yet born great great great grandchildren........
Seeing how much effort it’s taken on the outside, I’m positive there’s still rust deposits sitting happily on the inside of the frame 😢
Unlikely. I've used the product for years now for auto restorations....24 hour soak and some light agitation is all it needs to eat through the worst rust. It really is a life-saver when trying to save small, delicate metal objects that may not react well to harsher methods. If that frame was in there for three days, 99% of that rust is gone.
ummm did you figure that out with your eyes? because we saw the inside lit up and you could see the dark residue still. its no secret haha
@@Halliday7895 If you are talking about the "dark residue" at 31:02 or so, that appears to be paint or some sort of coating, not rust, which Evaporust won't affect. Have you ever used the product?
If this was an infomercial for Evaporust, then you’d have sold us all! This was definitely the coolest use of this stuff I’ve ever seen!
+1 for the science breakdown and explanation, very few channels do that.
Great job, Edd. I wish you all the best in the New upcoming Year
Thank you, you too.
Use a jetter nozzle on a pressure washer and you can internally clean your chassis the whole length works a treat , KBO
Lovely Evaporust commercial. Gotta pick up the DIY version again, because this is financially impossible if you're not sponsored .
New content from Edd!!! It's a Christmas miracle!!! (This is the best Christmas gift of them all!)
Very kind, thank you! Happy Christmas!!
as an extension to the list mentioned around 18:20ish one important note is that it is NOT safe for magnesium alloys like some wheels or other parts. With that said, i freaking love E-R, been using it for a few years now.
Edd! You were the reason we've loved the original Wheeler Dealers! This project was epic! We too have just discovered Evaporust and are currently using it to restore an antique copy press. Do you have a video on powder coating vs. Spray paint (rustoleum)? Loving your content in Utah!
Thanks. Evapo-Rust is indeed brilliant stuff, good luck with the press. Next process for the chassis is galvanising and then powder coating (video being edited as we speak)! Would definitely be good to compare wet and dry paint sometime too…
Hello Utah! Thanks for watching!
@@eddchina Yay! We'll be watching! 😊
Not all the Rustoleum paints are the same... I used one to paint an aux 5g fuel tank for my Harley for long distance rides and found out the first time I filled up that that particular product was not fuel-resistant... It was one of the hammer finish oil based paints... It looked good, but only until the first bit of gas got on it when I filled it up the first time...
I had a powder coated winch bumper on a Jeep XJ that I used to own and determined that powdercoating is not necessarily that great either... When you get a rock chip, it lets water get under the powercoat and eventually it forms a bubble of rust and then the next thing you know, you have a spot flaking off that is a couple of inches in diameter...
Conclusion? Nothing is perfect... Each has its advantages and disadvantages...
@@seanseoltoir oh, wow! Good info! I'll have my hubby read this. Thanks so much!
I work for a Battleship Museum in the southern US. We use evaporust a lot. Great stuff.
And for those questioning the cost, this was just a fun way of showing off the product. I don’t think anyone expects people to do this. Though I do have a Sherman tank I’d like to make water tight and fill with evaporust…if anyone is listening…
Isn’t that what naval jelly was designed for?
Well lads...
If it's coming out of your own pocket to remove rust...
Try 1935 Litres of white vinegar... (Around $600.00)
OR...
1935 Litres of Industrial Molasses...(Around $900.00)
Build a big crate out of some pallets and line it with plastic
How well both of these work will utterly amaze and surprise you!
Vinegar works overnight or maybe a day or so...
The Molasses takes a little longer...
Bawb DARES you to try it Edd! 😁
Edd, why didn't you use displacement to bring the level up enough to cover the entire chassis? If you want to get to 1 million keep on bringing out new content such as this. This one came up in my notifications so I don't know why people are saying it isn't showing up. Looking forward to the next instalment.
Thanks. Yes displacement would have made a load of sense but it was really cool to see the before and after difference so starkly! Galvanising video will be up soon…
Good to see you back.
Brilliant to see you back Sir, so much detail, must be all consuming but its absolutely worth your effort.
💪
Very enjoyable! 😊
Thanks. It does seem to take me a while to do a 35 minute job! Glad you enjoyed it!
just a tip, and this works for big and small jobs, if you want to reduce how much evapo rust you need just displace some of it by putting some objects in the liquid around the item. In this case you could have had some buckets of water etc. For some jobs I have used a waterproof camping bags where it was a flat bike rack etc. Be creative :)
Damn! Is this a rerun or an actual new episode? I hope it’s the latter! In that case: yahoo!! Welcome back old friend! If it’s the first: glad to see you’re still alive!
22:40 that was annoyingly smart! I thought about how you would go about turning it around and that was bloody clever!
And great soundtrack!
Yes it really is a brand new episode. And it’s about the Range Rover too! How much of a Christmas gift is that?!
Lazy is often the mother of Smart!
Glad you liked the music too, I had lots of fun choosing it!
@@eddchina So glad to see you around again, mate!! I don't even know you yet I _have_ known you for ages. Don't want to tout your horn too much, it will just make you feel uncomfortable, but you have amassed a huge following of which I am one. Look forward to more my friend!
That was some job. Hopefully loads of Range Rover content/updates in 2024. Great to see the progress.
Thanks. Good news; we have already filmed parts of the next few videos so more Range Rover goodness to come in 2024!!
Love the bakery based chemistry animation. Well done. And very glad you are back!
I don’t get it. When the chassis gets to the galvanising works it is dipped in an acid bath prior to galvanising so why duplicate the first part of the process? Cheers !