You could post vids of touch-up paint drying and I would watch. I'd think you have finally gone off your nut, but my subscription would stand. Thanks for keeping my eye on the project. My '97 thanks you too.
Very good job John. It is always a good idea to stop or eliminate rust immediately. Any repair under the car should be looked around and rust removed . Greetings Udo
Wurth do the same stuff ready-mixed in a plastic jar. I use it every day & like it. Idea with this stuff is to be stingy - apply just enough but don't have the surface soaked in it - if you lash it on, you'll get it hard to get paint etc to adhere well as it won't have reacted fully. Mingy as she goes & it works good.
I've just bought an XJR 2001 and it has lots of surface rust, thick as well, especially on the A Frame so tomorrow I will be hitting it off with a small hammer, then using wire brush on my angle grinder to clean the rest off, then applying this rust eater that your using here. This car I got from Yorkshire, Bradford, and I bet it's been sitting in a puddle or grass for years! I hate the look of rust under my cars! Great video by the way, keep up the good work.
I just completed rebuilding the front suspension and homed in on this area. Using a strip-it wheel and a Dremel I got rid of all the rust on the forward part of the floor pans. A rotary wire brush got rod of the rest. We never see any results of this stuff 5-10 years down the line! It’s expensive and pretty but does it actually work?👍
there is no issue with doing that but the electrox would just be a rather expensive paint. its high zink content is intended to come into contact with bare metal and provide a chemical / gavanic protection (similar to galvanising). The hydrate 80 would be a barrier to that effect. (in my opinion)
Hi Peter👍 I believe Lanoguard to be a very good, Ecologically friendly and very easy product to use. However whilst it is probably excellent at preventing corrosive elements getting to and causing corrosion. Im not aware that it has any contents or ability to convert existing rust into anything else. (It may slow its progress though through oxygen starvation) I would happily use it as a protectorant on my car though. 👍
It caught my eye during the other day's video and kept bothering me every time the camera caught some view to the right in this video. It is that rust HOLE forming in the frame rail. Please consider addressing that.
John - I'm surprised you didn't have the rubber bungs out and waxoyl the sill inner from both ends. When I saved my XK8 the sills had rotted out from the inside as most do so I used a Ton and a Half of Waxoyl for future protection ruclips.net/video/D6WjxFZfSis/видео.html
sorry, but you are a little naive if you believe that is a long term fix. That rust needs cutting out or at the very least getting back to good clean steel before applying your rust treatment. Bilt Hamber products are very good but you've done nothing more than temporarily slow the rusting process here.
I agree , car corrosion is from the inside to the outside. Whilst I like to put Bilthamber on solid suspension arms which then neutralises the rust and leaves a protective coating, for body areas like this you need to get behind where it is visible. The Iron phosphate produced by the reaction produces a tetrahedral molecule which is stable, unless it is scratched. Follow up with paint or a regular Lanolin coating under the car to protect it, but once it shows on the outside, it is present on the inside of the panel where the moisture is enclosed. XK8 rear wheel arches I see as a weakness and the corrosion can be caught early maybe by treating the panel inside the boot behind the carpet trim, which is where it seems to originate for some reason. I don't think the joint between the outer wing and inner wheel arch at the rear is always fully sealed. Just my observation on my own 2005 XKR. I wish I had known this 10 years ago.
You could post vids of touch-up paint drying and I would watch. I'd think you have finally gone off your nut, but my subscription would stand. Thanks for keeping my eye on the project. My '97 thanks you too.
Very good job John. It is always a good idea to stop or eliminate rust immediately. Any repair under the car should be looked around and rust removed . Greetings Udo
Wurth do the same stuff ready-mixed in a plastic jar. I use it every day & like it. Idea with this stuff is to be stingy - apply just enough but don't have the surface soaked in it - if you lash it on, you'll get it hard to get paint etc to adhere well as it won't have reacted fully. Mingy as she goes & it works good.
I've just bought an XJR 2001 and it has lots of surface rust, thick as well, especially on the A Frame so tomorrow I will be hitting it off with a small hammer, then using wire brush on my angle grinder to clean the rest off, then applying this rust eater that your using here. This car I got from Yorkshire, Bradford, and I bet it's been sitting in a puddle or grass for years! I hate the look of rust under my cars! Great video by the way, keep up the good work.
Thanks Dave and good luck with your project👍
I just completed rebuilding the front suspension and homed in on this area. Using a strip-it wheel and a Dremel I got rid of all the rust on the forward part of the floor pans. A rotary wire brush got rod of the rest.
We never see any results of this stuff 5-10 years down the line! It’s expensive and pretty but does it actually work?👍
Can I use Hydrate80 followed by Elextrox or does that not make sense ?
there is no issue with doing that but the electrox would just be a rather expensive paint. its high zink content is intended to come into contact with bare metal and provide a chemical / gavanic protection (similar to galvanising). The hydrate 80 would be a barrier to that effect. (in my opinion)
@@ToTheGaragethanks good point 👍
I think if you wanted a bit more permanent job apply some epoxy primer ontop the hydrate 80 when cures before applying the stone chip👌🏽
Hi
John.
Have you tried lanoguard...I used it on my xj brilliant stuff it's also transparent...
Hi Peter👍
I believe Lanoguard to be a very good, Ecologically friendly and very easy product to use.
However whilst it is probably excellent at preventing corrosive elements getting to and causing corrosion. Im not aware that it has any contents or ability to convert existing rust into anything else. (It may slow its progress though through oxygen starvation)
I would happily use it as a protectorant on my car though. 👍
Proper job!
You need to do the inside parts where you cannot see
What's the carrier? Can it be thinned and sprayed?
wash brushes in water si im guessing its water based? certainly thin enough to spray as supplied
It caught my eye during the other day's video and kept bothering me every time the camera caught some view to the right in this video. It is that rust HOLE forming in the frame rail. Please consider addressing that.
Fab mate
John - I'm surprised you didn't have the rubber bungs out and waxoyl the sill inner from both ends. When I saved my XK8 the sills had rotted out from the inside as most do so I used a Ton and a Half of Waxoyl for future protection ruclips.net/video/D6WjxFZfSis/видео.html
sorry, but you are a little naive if you believe that is a long term fix. That rust needs cutting out or at the very least getting back to good clean steel before applying your rust treatment. Bilt Hamber products are very good but you've done nothing more than temporarily slow the rusting process here.
I agree. Hence 'quick rust treatment'. Ie better than doing nothing, 👍
I agree , car corrosion is from the inside to the outside. Whilst I like to put Bilthamber on solid suspension arms which then neutralises the rust and leaves a protective coating, for body areas like this you need to get behind where it is visible. The Iron phosphate produced by the reaction produces a tetrahedral molecule which is stable, unless it is scratched. Follow up with paint or a regular Lanolin coating under the car to protect it, but once it shows on the outside, it is present on the inside of the panel where the moisture is enclosed. XK8 rear wheel arches I see as a weakness and the corrosion can be caught early maybe by treating the panel inside the boot behind the carpet trim, which is where it seems to originate for some reason. I don't think the joint between the outer wing and inner wheel arch at the rear is always fully sealed. Just my observation on my own 2005 XKR. I wish I had known this 10 years ago.
This is NOT a good job, terrible!