Thank you Pine Hollow Auto! My traction control and ABS light has been on for the last week now, and my scanner does not have ABS codes...I hit Autozone this afternoon, and read that I had a C1218 code sitting in my car. I came across your video, decided to mimick exactly what you had done on my 2003 Monte Carlo, and it has cleared both of my ABS and Traction Control lights! :-) To others who might attempt this, removal of the connector per the video can be difficult, especially if it has been connected for 15+ years... As shown in the video, the red tab slider, when slid over, unlocks a black tab that then gets depressed deep. This allows the outer black cover to slide (to the right in the video). It gets stubborn after about half way (as per the video). But what is happening is as you slide the cover further to the right, the gray angled tabs or blades (seen in the video) also start pushing the connector away from the solenoid or brake housing. So the covers removed in the video should stay as part of the rest of the connector. Maybe this will help another user since this part of the video gets missed during the connector struggle. Also, I just used WD-40 Contact Cleaner on the contacts, let dry for several minutes, then installed/removed/reinstalled the connector.
Was an owner/operator of a repair shop for 38 years. Since sold and was sure this was a bigger problem than expected. Read the code C1218 with my scanner and got the same results as you. Never expecting the results you achieved. But, damn, sure enough I disconnected the harness from the pump and boom……code’s gone. Still apprehensive, but impressed with the diagnosis. Great video.
Thanks a bunch for this video - I have been dealing with this ABS and Traction Service issues for months. I replaced the hubs, cables, and tried to reset the ABS with the scanner but nothing worked. However, it never crossed my mind to unplug the unit to clean out the connection. Well, after watching this video decided to follow your steps to find out that the plug connector was dirty and a little rusted. Cleaned up the connections and spread Master-Rust on them and connected the plug back in. The Traction Service warning light and the ABS went AWAY!!!!! Thank you sir for this helpful tip. You saved me an expensive trip to the dealership!
Ivan, I did this same thing to my 2005 Imapla yesterday, used CRC Electomotive Contact Cleaner on it, reassembled, same result, my ABS and TRAC OFF lights went out, C1218 gone. The connector was murder to get off and back on. Thanks for your video!
This issue will come and go, you have to drive it a few hours and the same issue will reappear and go away. If the vehicle is equipped with traction control, the microprocessor is called the Electronic Brake Traction Control Module (EBTCM)The Body Control Module (EBCM) also opens and closes ground for many other items on the car like low beam headlights.
Just so people know a very common cause of this is the drivers side wheel speed sensor wire getting torn somewhere leading up that wire harness (probably along the control arm somewhere). They make a fix for this you can find it on amazon for about $25 (or simply find the break in the wire and put in new wire. Remember that they are twisted pairs of wire so twist the new piece in.
I have a 2002 cavalier that had the abs light on for a long time. I finally got a scan tool that has abs capability. It showed the same C1218 code. I went to alldata and printed the abs connector breakdown and the ground points for the ground wires. The connector is identical to the one in your video. After figuring out how to get it unpluged I checked the integrity of the ground wires using a dvom and my test light and the ground wires were good. No damage to the connector or the pins in the control module. I reinstalled the connector and the abs light went out. I erased the code and have had no problems since. I was puzzled as to why this fixed the problem. Bad connection on the pin for the ground wires? After watching your video I guess maybe this is a common problem on gm abs from that era? I enjoy your channel and South Main Auto's channel. You guys are very thorough in your diagnostics.
Have you tried unplugging and plugging it back in? Usually that would be a joke. In this case it really is the fix. Today's lesson, don't underestimate a simple wiggle test.
+DJDevon3 once upon a time I worked selling mattresses and appliances,, you would be amazed at how many good TVs we pulled out of houses where the plug had fallen out ..or the remote had bad batteries!! not kidding .. so it never hurts to start with the basics :)
Yo Ivan good video :) That 3.8 makes me want to get my OTC flusher out and do some extreme flushing haha! A little tear came to my eye when you spoke the words "lets go get a test light..." man after my own heart!
+deepsquat600 yep! It is never a complete SMAR video until there is a can of Brake Cleaner used, dropped fasteners, or cool saying from the mouth of Eric O. "1-2-Barbecue"!
Yep, looks like unplugging and reseating the plug has made a better connection by probably wiping off a very thin layer of oxidation. You should be good to go now Ivan.
hello Ivan just finished watching all ur videos took me one week to catch up with last one what a good teaching channel u have with SMA Eric 0 and Schrodingers Box all together it makes an info resources that some one can learn so much to became Avery good mechanic with out going to techs school cheeers and waiting to watch some more soon.
+j georges Absolutely! The info is out there, all you need is a willingness to learn. I have an engineering/physics background, but all the automotive applications I learned from first-hand experience and watching ScannerDanner case studies :) More great material is in the works!
Now that was easy:) when the Chevy p/up's first started with antilock that was the fix as well , just disconnect the connector at the module by the master cylinder. Could never figure out to this day why disconnecting the battery did not reset the module . Great vid Ivan for someone that has the same fault.
So....if anyone is not clear on this, and I can't believe it was this simple to remedy, I just removed the connector, left it off for 30 seconds, plugged it back in and Voila, the ABS light on the dash is cleared. Time will tell if the light stays out but it sure is nice to not have that glaring at me as I drive around. This was too cool. Thank you so much to Pine Hollow for posting this video.
Just want to say Thank You for doing the video on the Chevy Impala ABS/ Traction Control light. I followed your lead and steps. I had the same issue on 2004 model. Its strange how a bad connection was the root of the problem. Thanks Again!
My mom had an 02 Impala LS when we were growing up and that was a FUN car to drive!! It is just too bad GM couldn't get their stuff fixed, especially when they would crap out the PCM/BCM and render these useless.
Had the exact same problem on my 2003 monte carlo. Just watched your video, pulled the connector off. Did the check, plugged back in and no codes !! Thank you.
THANK YOU! Exact same code and THIS fixed mine as well! My antilock had not worked for several months because of a bad rear sensor....then it picked up a second code (C12189) I assume from lack off use. In any case many thanks because my '05 Buick is now ready for my teen driver.....yeah I'm thinking ABS better work!
Had he same issue with my car. Disconnected this, everything tested fine, added some dieletric grease and reconnected. Everything is working well so far 1 day later
I really learned a lot with this video cause what he did fixed my problem was able to get money back on hubs assembly brought which I was told was the problem. THANKS
I had a similar issue with the connector on the coil packs once. Took it apart to investigate,found nothing wrong..put it back together,and it was good to go. Sometimes it's just connectors getting crusty.
Hi Ivan fixed an airbag LFC 23(p/s-d/s circuit low resistance,open,short to ground, short to power) on a Ford Falcon today by unplugging the d/s and p/s seat connectors, spray cleaned with electronic contact cleaner and applied RS electronic grease to the connectors terminals (think you use Stabilant22? over there to do the job). No more LFC!. Picked up some good info from your 07 Chevy Silverado vid on airbags. You and Eric are definitely the dynamic duo...
Welcome to GM and terminal fretting. At the dealer we usually pack with dielectric grease to reduce that from happening again. Should probably checked terminal tension too.... But great video!
+Tyler Inman Haha this was like that GM truck Airbag video all over again! Wasn't as surprised to find the same problem on a similar connector. I'll have to get me some dielectric grease for these cases :)
On my car, 2002 Monte Carlo SS, it was a matter of removing the ECBM and re-solder some broken or cold solder joints on the pins onboard the pcb. GM was notorious for having bad solder joints in the ECBMs on the early to mid 2000 vehicles. .....and crappy a/c blend door actuators too.
How about using Stabilant 22 instead of WD40, also since the connector was easily accessible, sealed beam headlamp to see if wiring could carry the load(amps instead of milliamps) just a thought, enjoyed the video and it is amazing how difficult it can be to remove connectors without damage.
I have a 2001 Buick Century with 300k which has similar type of module and plug connection. It started showing an ABS light two days ago. The garage technician verified the c1218 code yesterday and reset it and sure enough it came back in the evening. I noticed this code never seemed to come on while the engine is already on and only showed up when the engine is first started up after a couple hours of driving. You can shut the engine off with no code and the code will be there on the next startup - or some later startup. I started hunting around to learn more and found this video before considering jumping into an elaborate diagnosis. I followed the video this morning, the only difference being I carefully took the plug on and off the pins three times in a row before putting it back on a fourth time and locking it own. I then put the socket connector back together and started the engine. Code was gone. It was nice to see the ABS light off but now need to wait till later in the day, tonight or tomorrow to drive it around and do some engine off/on/off/on errands to see if the ABS light comes back. I can understand that such a connector left alone since 2001 could develop a pin coating/tarnish that would impact resistance and thereby impact function but my concern is it's also possible all I did was power down the ABS by disconnecting the connector so the code would clear and regenerate tonight or tomorrow due to a deeper root cause. I don't know the ABS code retention protocol well enough to know what the power disconnection does to stored ABS codes. Based on the failure mode of this malfunction I will know more by tonight or tomorrow and am guardedly optimistic. If the ABS light is still off after 24 hours this may be a success. I will post back the result of this in a day or two regardless of the outcome. Either way the video was useful.
It has been one week now and the ABS light never came back. The first time I started it after performing the procedure in this video the ABS light did not come back. I decided to give it a week of different types of driving profiles and various braking types (average vs. a few ABS required and since I drive on I-95 you will always get a few of those every week) and no sign of the ABS light. The justification for this success seems to be connector fitment in the video but I wonder about that. The plug connector (after figuring out how to release the various clasps: Guard clasp, Latch Clasp and Slide Lock) was quite clean and well protected. I did not place it under a magnifier but for a 15 year old connector the contacts could have been brand new. Looking at you tube videos of the inside of ABS electronic module (no need to remove mine to look) it was not a small level of electronics but (I surmise) another example of an embedded processor application nicely configured to oversee the operation of ABS plungers/servos and other subtle processing where the current state of the microprocessor is being driven by external sensor stimulus as well as internal variables few people have to know about for it to function. I recently had two new wheel bearing/sensors installed. Bearings were worn. If this Electronic ABS module is as sensitive as most other electronic devices to its peripherals - I'm wondering if there is an extreme corner case possibility that if these bearing/sensors were swapped out and the system was not powered down (battery not disconnected) that it might have false triggered an ABS fault internal variable that might not have happened if the entire ABS system was powered off in the first place and the bearings changed. I'm not saying this is common at all or even likely but in general any microprocessor based system does not like having sensors changed when even in a minimally powered state and its possibly the ABS module is one of the systems that receives power even with the key out. [For instance I know from swapping out the display cluster that it is not lit with the key out but one of the junction connector leads is hot with the key out. I was surprised.] I'm aware that the c1218 code is not a wheel bearing code but the c1218 light event happened a day after both wheel bearings were swapped out and after what could be described as a system reset of the module (this procedure) all went back to normal. Coincidence? Perhaps. Yet with this much inherent Systems Engineering complexity neatly packaged in the ABS unit it might be a spurious, non-reproducible failure mode that can surface in one out of X bearing swaps yet not produce any kind of bearing fault code and manifests itself as a false positive state in the module itself. In either case I'm happy I looked into this and found this video ahead of taking any action. When diagnosing I'm guided by the approach - lets look for the simple things first and move outward. Nice result.I am reminded at this time of what the CEO of Toyota generally said about his newer cars in Business Week several years ago: 'As the level of System/Software Integration is increased in our cars we are seeing an increase in problems requiring greater diagnostic skills.'
at 8:30 the pink/bk wire right above your fingernail looks like it was probed with a test light. wiggling around may have fixed a bad wire lol i doubt it but had to mention it. those connectors were never really watertight.
Good afternoon Ivan. Was hoping u would give us some bidirectional input on the Autel. No pun intended. How is there support and updates. Hoping u and Eric, or Eric will give us the case study on it. Twisted cams, worn thrust bearings that allow for weak amplitude. These r the best drama. Those tough ones bring out the best in u! Keep up the great work for us!! Thank u
Hey Ivan you have some great videos keep em coming...two things .....Any reason for not checking for voltage drop? and hate to be the killjoy but don't be surprised if the problem returns those "EBCM" are notorious for bad solder joints at the power and ground lugs , disturbing the plug may have temporarily made a better connection at the board. They can be resoldered without too much grief when mounted, like this one , under the hood and easily accessible (unlike my silverado) unbolt it from the pump carefully split the case and check and resolder anything that looks questionable...hopefully you will not have to and it was repaired by cleaning the pins keep us updated if any changes...thanks for again for your time and effort putting out these videos...Anthony
+antoeknee1030 Yes that is a great point. I have re-soldered EBCM relay pins in the past on a Chevy Astro van to fix an intermittent C0265 code, so that can definitely be an issue. In this case, if this is indeed a long-term fix, then everything is OK. But if this car comes back with the same code, I'll eat the cost of the second call and you will get a "Part 2" video :)
That is exactly what just happened to me. My ecm had two large connectors on it. When you turned on the computer for cruise control 1 out of 4 times it would not start right away. So I unplugged and replugged these and now everything works every time. Just wish I had someone to help me with my hands free bluetooth. I think I will take it out and try to Jimmie the circuit.
Was looking forward to an Abs teardown.Hard to credit a re-connection solved the problem.Did you expect it or have you experienced this solved the fault before?Who supplied the wiring diagram on the mobile?Maybe a decent tripod to keep the camera steady while you work on items.Good video.
+Tom OConnor Yes, I have in the past seen pins that look clean but still have high resistance when plugged in. The Silverado Airbag case study comes to mind. My guess is that the female terminals don't have enough spring pressure to maintain a good contact. The wiring diagram was courtesy of BBD Industries :)
I’m going to unplug my module and see what’s going on I can feel the abs trying to engage the brake pedal has back pressure but it stops doing that once the traction control and abs light come on
I have 2004 impala, abs is on and traction control,at times when I take off my car brakes off and on,never acts up when I'm rolling just taking off,any ideas?
Ivan......got some magic money there.......IDK about using wd 40, it' not my 1st choice on conductors. but whatever work's. like you vids, keep it up Ivan....
I have found that the wd 40 emulsifies quickly attracting dirt/dust and then the dirt dust attracts h2o.....then woops,. I was an engineer at shell oil (a Refinery) WD not allowed on the premises due to its latent ability to destroy Fe materials in short order.
The concept is that you want a permanent non adhesive film that would create an O2 barrier....Or clean a corroded conductor with a zero residue product. the low vapor pressure products used for Maf sensors qualify for the latter, and motor winding cleaners are sufficient also IMO. I use Di-electric compounds every time I go into a connection or service port, It provides the hydrophobic barrier because of it's mass and seems to last in a environment of vibrations....There are some thin film protectants available but I don't use then in an environment of low voltage plc's because of the impedance properties that multiple connections would produce.
+danekeeper1 Wow WD-40 is that bad huh? I use it to lube my bicycle chain and it does indeed attract dirt and dust. Might have to switch to dielectric grease for electrical connections, thanks for the tip!
i noticed when i turns the key to on there is nothing i do the same thing again my abs comes on and then it turns off with the track light on then i hear a weird noise .
On my 01 impala the wire on the wheel bearing assembly snapped off, my fault because I didn't route the wiring right or because I didn't get the right hub assembly. It said plastic clip or metal clip I just Eeny, meeny, miny, moe'd it. Does any one know the difference between them? Honestly I think it handles better without ABS or Traction control but if I ever sell the money pit I would like those lights to be off.
Thank you Pine Hollow Auto! My traction control and ABS light has been on for the last week now, and my scanner does not have ABS codes...I hit Autozone this afternoon, and read that I had a C1218 code sitting in my car. I came across your video, decided to mimick exactly what you had done on my 2003 Monte Carlo, and it has cleared both of my ABS and Traction Control lights! :-)
To others who might attempt this, removal of the connector per the video can be difficult, especially if it has been connected for 15+ years... As shown in the video, the red tab slider, when slid over, unlocks a black tab that then gets depressed deep. This allows the outer black cover to slide (to the right in the video). It gets stubborn after about half way (as per the video). But what is happening is as you slide the cover further to the right, the gray angled tabs or blades (seen in the video) also start pushing the connector away from the solenoid or brake housing. So the covers removed in the video should stay as part of the rest of the connector. Maybe this will help another user since this part of the video gets missed during the connector struggle.
Also, I just used WD-40 Contact Cleaner on the contacts, let dry for several minutes, then installed/removed/reinstalled the connector.
Was an owner/operator of a repair shop for 38 years. Since sold and was sure this was a bigger problem than expected. Read the code C1218 with my scanner and got the same results as you. Never expecting the results you achieved. But, damn, sure enough I disconnected the harness from the pump and boom……code’s gone. Still apprehensive, but impressed with the diagnosis. Great video.
Had the same issue on my 2004 Impala 3.4 litre, came across this video. Figure I give it a shot. Cant believe it fixed the problem. Thanks pal.
Thanks a bunch for this video - I have been dealing with this ABS and Traction Service issues for months. I replaced the hubs, cables, and tried to reset the ABS with the scanner but nothing worked. However, it never crossed my mind to unplug the unit to clean out the connection. Well, after watching this video decided to follow your steps to find out that the plug connector was dirty and a little rusted. Cleaned up the connections and spread Master-Rust on them and connected the plug back in. The Traction Service warning light and the ABS went AWAY!!!!! Thank you sir for this helpful tip. You saved me an expensive trip to the dealership!
Appreciate you posting this. Its great that its helping guys like me so long after you uploaded it!
Ivan, I did this same thing to my 2005 Imapla yesterday, used CRC Electomotive Contact Cleaner on it, reassembled, same result, my ABS and TRAC OFF lights went out, C1218 gone. The connector was murder to get off and back on. Thanks for your video!
This issue will come and go, you have to drive it a few hours and the same issue will reappear and go away. If the vehicle is equipped with traction control, the microprocessor is called the Electronic Brake Traction Control Module (EBTCM)The Body Control Module (EBCM) also opens and closes ground for many other items on the car like low beam headlights.
sometimes abs come back when wheels in motion.make sure to move vehicle forward or reverse b4 calling it.
Just so people know a very common cause of this is the drivers side wheel speed sensor wire getting torn somewhere leading up that wire harness (probably along the control arm somewhere). They make a fix for this you can find it on amazon for about $25 (or simply find the break in the wire and put in new wire. Remember that they are twisted pairs of wire so twist the new piece in.
I have a 2002 cavalier that had the abs light on for a long time. I finally got a scan tool that has abs capability. It showed the same C1218 code. I went to alldata and printed the abs connector breakdown and the ground points for the ground wires. The connector is identical to the one in your video. After figuring out how to get it unpluged I checked the integrity of the ground wires using a dvom and my test light and the ground wires were good. No damage to the connector or the pins in the control module. I reinstalled the connector and the abs light went out. I erased the code and have had no problems since. I was puzzled as to why this fixed the problem. Bad connection on the pin for the ground wires? After watching your video I guess maybe this is a common problem on gm abs from that era? I enjoy your channel and South Main Auto's channel. You guys are very thorough in your diagnostics.
Have you tried unplugging and plugging it back in? Usually that would be a joke. In this case it really is the fix. Today's lesson, don't underestimate a simple wiggle test.
+DJDevon3 once upon a time I worked selling mattresses and appliances,, you would be amazed at how many good TVs we pulled out of houses where the plug had fallen out ..or the remote had bad batteries!! not kidding .. so it never hurts to start with the basics :)
Yo Ivan good video :) That 3.8 makes me want to get my OTC flusher out and do some extreme flushing haha! A little tear came to my eye when you spoke the words "lets go get a test light..." man after my own heart!
+South Main Auto Repair yes his scope on a rope skills almost rival yours ..trouble is I There Was No Brake Cleaner To Be Found :)
Oh man, I remember that 3.8L flush Eric! That was a crazy video and lots of nastiness!!
I think I am going to buy a test light... :D
+deepsquat600 yep! It is never a complete SMAR video until there is a can of Brake Cleaner used, dropped fasteners, or cool saying from the mouth of Eric O. "1-2-Barbecue"!
+South Main Auto Repair hah I should have popped the rad cap off and shoved a screwdriver in the mud LOL
Haha I dunno man you have to find a pretty nasty one to beat mine
Yep, looks like unplugging and reseating the plug has made a better connection by probably wiping off a very thin layer of oxidation. You should be good to go now Ivan.
hello Ivan just finished watching all ur videos took me one week to catch up with last one what a good teaching channel u have with SMA Eric 0 and Schrodingers Box all together it makes an info resources that some one can learn so much to became Avery good mechanic with out going to techs school cheeers and waiting to watch some more soon.
+j georges Absolutely! The info is out there, all you need is a willingness to learn. I have an engineering/physics background, but all the automotive applications I learned from first-hand experience and watching ScannerDanner case studies :) More great material is in the works!
Now that was easy:) when the Chevy p/up's first started with antilock that was the fix as well , just disconnect the connector at the module by the master cylinder. Could never figure out to this day why disconnecting the battery did not reset the module . Great vid Ivan for someone that has the same fault.
This one gives new meaning to Eric O's saying " The Money Light is on " !
So....if anyone is not clear on this, and I can't believe it was this simple to remedy, I just removed the connector, left it off for 30 seconds, plugged it back in and Voila, the ABS light on the dash is cleared. Time will tell if the light stays out but it sure is nice to not have that glaring at me as I drive around. This was too cool. Thank you so much to Pine Hollow for posting this video.
Thanks. Had the same exact code. Did what you did. Lights went away for about 30 miles and then came back on.
Just want to say Thank You for doing the video on the Chevy Impala ABS/ Traction Control light. I followed your lead and steps. I had the same issue on 2004 model. Its strange how a bad connection was the root of the problem. Thanks Again!
Awesome, glad the video was helpful!
Another good fix Ivan. I like how well you explain and video your work so it is easy to understand just what you are doing.
My mom had an 02 Impala LS when we were growing up and that was a FUN car to drive!!
It is just too bad GM couldn't get their stuff fixed, especially when they would crap out the PCM/BCM and render these useless.
Had the exact same problem on my 2003 monte carlo. Just watched your video, pulled the connector off. Did the check, plugged back in and no codes !! Thank you.
Hopefully it's a long term fix!
workharddieproud
Thanks so much! Found out what the code was for why my ABS light was on, and then found your video. It worked on my 2000 Cavalier. :)
Win.
Ivan - Great Video! These kinds of videos are the best. They turn a financial nightmare into relatively simple repair. Awesome - More Videos Please ;)
My 2002 Monte Carlo SS has same issue. Will try this today. Nice video, thank you!
did it work ?
YES! Thank you! Unplug sprayed contact cleaner on terminals re-plug problem solved!
THANK YOU! Exact same code and THIS fixed mine as well! My antilock had not worked for several months because of a bad rear sensor....then it picked up a second code (C12189) I assume from lack off use. In any case many thanks because my '05 Buick is now ready for my teen driver.....yeah I'm thinking ABS better work!
Had he same issue with my car. Disconnected this, everything tested fine, added some dieletric grease and reconnected. Everything is working well so far 1 day later
I really learned a lot with this video cause what he did fixed my problem was able to get money back on hubs assembly brought which I was told was the problem. THANKS
I had a similar issue with the connector on the coil packs once. Took it apart to investigate,found nothing wrong..put it back together,and it was good to go. Sometimes it's just connectors getting crusty.
Hi Ivan fixed an airbag LFC 23(p/s-d/s circuit low resistance,open,short to ground, short to power) on a Ford Falcon today by unplugging the d/s and p/s seat connectors, spray cleaned with electronic contact cleaner and applied RS electronic grease to the connectors terminals (think you use Stabilant22? over there to do the job). No more LFC!. Picked up some good info from your 07 Chevy Silverado vid on airbags. You and Eric are definitely the dynamic duo...
+tecnaman Cool! Yup connector problems arise on all makes and models. The hard part is tracing the problem; the repair is usually simple and free :)
This fixed mine too - connector came loose without even removing the cover completely. Sprayed some MAF on it and reconnected. Light went off.
Welcome to GM and terminal fretting. At the dealer we usually pack with dielectric grease to reduce that from happening again. Should probably checked terminal tension too.... But great video!
+Tyler Inman Haha this was like that GM truck Airbag video all over again! Wasn't as surprised to find the same problem on a similar connector. I'll have to get me some dielectric grease for these cases :)
On my car, 2002 Monte Carlo SS, it was a matter of removing the ECBM and re-solder some broken or cold solder joints on the pins onboard the pcb. GM was notorious for having bad solder joints in the ECBMs on the early to mid 2000 vehicles.
.....and crappy a/c blend door actuators too.
Yes I have also saved EBCMs by re-soldering cracked solder joints...usually on trucks where they live under the truck on driver's side.
How about using Stabilant 22 instead of WD40, also since the connector was easily accessible, sealed beam headlamp to see if wiring could carry the load(amps instead of milliamps) just a thought, enjoyed the video and it is amazing how difficult it can be to remove connectors without damage.
Why WD-40? Don’t you want dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion?
I have a 2001 Buick Century with 300k which has similar type of module and plug connection. It started showing an ABS light two days ago. The garage technician verified the c1218 code yesterday and reset it and sure enough it came back in the evening. I noticed this code never seemed to come on while the engine is already on and only showed up when the engine is first started up after a couple hours of driving. You can shut the engine off with no code and the code will be there on the next startup - or some later startup. I started hunting around to learn more and found this video before considering jumping into an elaborate diagnosis. I followed the video this morning, the only difference being I carefully took the plug on and off the pins three times in a row before putting it back on a fourth time and locking it own. I then put the socket connector back together and started the engine. Code was gone. It was nice to see the ABS light off but now need to wait till later in the day, tonight or tomorrow to drive it around and do some engine off/on/off/on errands to see if the ABS light comes back. I can understand that such a connector left alone since 2001 could develop a pin coating/tarnish that would impact resistance and thereby impact function but my concern is it's also possible all I did was power down the ABS by disconnecting the connector so the code would clear and regenerate tonight or tomorrow due to a deeper root cause. I don't know the ABS code retention protocol well enough to know what the power disconnection does to stored ABS codes. Based on the failure mode of this malfunction I will know more by tonight or tomorrow and am guardedly optimistic. If the ABS light is still off after 24 hours this may be a success. I will post back the result of this in a day or two regardless of the outcome. Either way the video was useful.
For this code the ABS system does a self-check on every start-up. Sounds like it comes on for you after a hot soak. Definitely post your results!
It has been one week now and the ABS light never came back. The first time I started it after performing the procedure in this video the ABS light did not come back. I decided to give it a week of different types of driving profiles and various braking types (average vs. a few ABS required and since I drive on I-95 you will always get a few of those every week) and no sign of the ABS light. The justification for this success seems to be connector fitment in the video but I wonder about that. The plug connector (after figuring out how to release the various clasps: Guard clasp, Latch Clasp and Slide Lock) was quite clean and well protected. I did not place it under a magnifier but for a 15 year old connector the contacts could have been brand new. Looking at you tube videos of the inside of ABS electronic module (no need to remove mine to look) it was not a small level of electronics but (I surmise) another example of an embedded processor application nicely configured to oversee the operation of ABS plungers/servos and other subtle processing where the current state of the microprocessor is being driven by external sensor stimulus as well as internal variables few people have to know about for it to function. I recently had two new wheel bearing/sensors installed. Bearings were worn. If this Electronic ABS module is as sensitive as most other electronic devices to its peripherals - I'm wondering if there is an extreme corner case possibility that if these bearing/sensors were swapped out and the system was not powered down (battery not disconnected) that it might have false triggered an ABS fault internal variable that might not have happened if the entire ABS system was powered off in the first place and the bearings changed. I'm not saying this is common at all or even likely but in general any microprocessor based system does not like having sensors changed when even in a minimally powered state and its possibly the ABS module is one of the systems that receives power even with the key out. [For instance I know from swapping out the display cluster that it is not lit with the key out but one of the junction connector leads is hot with the key out. I was surprised.] I'm aware that the c1218 code is not a wheel bearing code but the c1218 light event happened a day after both wheel bearings were swapped out and after what could be described as a system reset of the module (this procedure) all went back to normal. Coincidence? Perhaps. Yet with this much inherent Systems Engineering complexity neatly packaged in the ABS unit it might be a spurious, non-reproducible failure mode that can surface in one out of X bearing swaps yet not produce any kind of bearing fault code and manifests itself as a false positive state in the module itself. In either case I'm happy I looked into this and found this video ahead of taking any action. When diagnosing I'm guided by the approach - lets look for the simple things first and move outward. Nice result.I am reminded at this time of what the CEO of Toyota generally said about his newer cars in Business Week several years ago: 'As the level of System/Software Integration is increased in our cars we are seeing an increase in problems requiring greater diagnostic skills.'
at 8:30 the pink/bk wire right above your fingernail looks like it was probed with a test light. wiggling around may have fixed a bad wire lol i doubt it but had to mention it. those connectors were never really watertight.
Good afternoon Ivan. Was hoping u would give us some bidirectional input on the Autel. No pun intended. How is there support and updates. Hoping u and Eric, or Eric will give us the case study on it. Twisted cams, worn thrust bearings that allow for weak amplitude. These r the best drama. Those tough ones bring out the best in u! Keep up the great work for us!! Thank u
Hey Ivan you have some great videos keep em coming...two things .....Any reason for not checking for voltage drop? and hate to be the killjoy but don't be surprised if the problem returns those "EBCM" are notorious for bad solder joints at the power and ground lugs , disturbing the plug may have temporarily made a better connection at the board. They can be resoldered without too much grief when mounted, like this one , under the hood and easily accessible (unlike my silverado) unbolt it from the pump carefully split the case and check and resolder anything that looks questionable...hopefully you will not have to and it was repaired by cleaning the pins keep us updated if any changes...thanks for again for your time and effort putting out these videos...Anthony
+antoeknee1030 Yes that is a great point. I have re-soldered EBCM relay pins in the past on a Chevy Astro van to fix an intermittent C0265 code, so that can definitely be an issue. In this case, if this is indeed a long-term fix, then everything is OK. But if this car comes back with the same code, I'll eat the cost of the second call and you will get a "Part 2" video :)
followed your same diagnostic path.. same result. cleaned plug no more light.. Wonder how long this will last. I assume till things get dirty again.
Great video! Unplug and replug technique worked! Have a 2002 chevy monte carlo ss with same 3.8 v6 engine.
Wonders if the pins were not making contact or it reset . Good find
Thank you Ivan, same problem and it fixed my my abs light also, thanks a million brother😄
This worked on my 03 Monte Carlo... But after I plug in and drive like 100ft, abs light comes back on....
That is exactly what just happened to me. My ecm had two large connectors on it. When you turned on the computer for cruise control 1 out of 4 times it would not start right away. So I unplugged and replugged these and now everything works every time. Just wish I had someone to help me with my hands free bluetooth. I think I will take it out and try to Jimmie the circuit.
Thank you! Fixed the issue on my Impala!
Muchas gracias por tu trabajo, encontramos una mejor sugerencia a nuestro problema. Mucho exito en lo te dedicas.
My cavalier has the same problem thanks for the video very helpful
Wow!!!!! I have the same exact problem on my 2001 chevy impala. Also when it gets cold, my dash goes haywire!!!!!
A common issue in those Impalas. Had the same issue with my sister Impala
Was looking forward to an Abs teardown.Hard to credit a re-connection solved the problem.Did you expect it or have you experienced this solved the fault before?Who supplied the wiring diagram on the mobile?Maybe a decent tripod to keep the camera steady while you work on items.Good video.
+Tom OConnor Yes, I have in the past seen pins that look clean but still have high resistance when plugged in. The Silverado Airbag case study comes to mind. My guess is that the female terminals don't have enough spring pressure to maintain a good contact.
The wiring diagram was courtesy of BBD Industries :)
Broooo it worked man he didn’t realize how affective this video was lol saved me hundred
that was a crazy fix.....magical in a way
+Ozzstar Also frustrating, since I can't be 100% sure the problem won't return in the near future...oh well.
Yeah it appears the module was 'reset' when the power was removed. I would think the check engine light will return eventually.
I’m going to unplug my module and see what’s going on I can feel the abs trying to engage the brake pedal has back pressure but it stops doing that once the traction control and abs light come on
Nice. I'll be doing that tomorrow
Nice job, I hope that is all mine is to 👍
Great Job man. Thank you so very much
My power locks buttons are not working and I don’t have the seatbelt notifications what can it be
Nice fix.. unplug/plug connector..
I got my mechanic to put in a new tie rod and still the traction off and ABS light on. ☹️ what is the ground part called?
Ремонт без лишних телодвижений, что ещё добавить, молодец.
+Сергей Клепицкий Будем надеется, что этой починки хватит на долго :)
+motoYam82 Помоему такие косяки приходят с наступлением осени т.е. большим перепадом ночной и дневной температур.
Спасибо за информативные видео, пересмотрел большую часть. О том, что ты говоришь по-русски, с удивлением узнал из комментария ниже :)
I have 2004 impala, abs is on and traction control,at times when I take off my car brakes off and on,never acts up when I'm rolling just taking off,any ideas?
I did this on a 2004 Impala and it made the lights and everything go off too good looking out
Good deal! 👍
Yeah I don't think is fixed pick up the car from the front and turn the steering wheel it will activate again
Great same thing worked for me
Thank you :)
hey ivab,I have a 02 ford explorer, that has the c1095, what can I do
Ivan......got some magic money there.......IDK about using wd 40, it' not my 1st choice on conductors. but whatever work's. like you vids, keep it up Ivan....
+danekeeper1 WD = water displacement so it's actually pretty good keeping moisture out.
I have found that the wd 40 emulsifies quickly attracting dirt/dust and then the dirt dust attracts h2o.....then woops,. I was an engineer at shell oil (a Refinery) WD not allowed on the premises due to its latent ability to destroy Fe materials in short order.
+danekeeper1 What suitable alternative would you recommend ?
The concept is that you want a permanent non adhesive film that would create an O2 barrier....Or clean a corroded conductor with a zero residue product. the low vapor pressure products used for Maf sensors qualify for the latter, and motor winding cleaners are sufficient also IMO. I use Di-electric compounds every time I go into a connection or service port, It provides the hydrophobic barrier because of it's mass and seems to last in a environment of vibrations....There are some thin film protectants available but I don't use then in an environment of low voltage plc's because of the impedance properties that multiple connections would produce.
+danekeeper1 Wow WD-40 is that bad huh? I use it to lube my bicycle chain and it does indeed attract dirt and dust. Might have to switch to dielectric grease for electrical connections, thanks for the tip!
Thanks so good
Fixed o3 Monte ss thank you
Cool!
i noticed when i turns the key to on there is nothing i do the same thing again my abs comes on and then it turns off with the track light on then i hear a weird noise .
cool.
What model snap on scan equipment is that like to get me one
bonito vvideo grasias por tu tiempo
On my 01 impala the wire on the wheel bearing assembly snapped off, my fault because I didn't route the wiring right or because I didn't get the right hub assembly. It said plastic clip or metal clip I just Eeny, meeny, miny, moe'd it. Does any one know the difference between them? Honestly I think it handles better without ABS or Traction control but if I ever sell the money pit I would like those lights to be off.
yeah ABS and traction control just get in the way of real driving enjoyment!!
thanks so much
I'm not buying it there's no way that fixed the car
It's been like 18 months and no comeback lol
motoYam82 😒🐂💩
Remember I'm not on the Bermuda Triangle so sometimes FM actually fixes the dang things xD
Thanks!
Don't use WD40 on electrical contacts. Use a contact or MAF cleaner. WD40 deteriorates plastics and rubbers and is never recommended for electronics
Really? I thought WD-40 was safe for plastics and rubber. PB Blaster on the other hand will eat straight through anything but metal lol
Its true. Enemy of plastics. It takes the slow approach so unnoticed right away
replace them both that's not a real diagnosis anyone can throw parts
You could say it was an ABSolute fix
HAHA that's first-class material right there!
Haha thanks man, and thanks for the vids!
cel check..
Wtf??????
I am no abs expert. Just wondering if driving the car and cycling the abs motor and what not could retrogressive a deeper prob??
+Jason Curry Hey Jason, what do you mean by "retrogressive a deeper prob"?