Hey what if the airbag light comes on when I start the car and stays on for a while? What could I do if that happens and if I checked the connections under both seats?
I just got a 2009 with 99,000 miles on it. What things should I upgrade/replace & keep up with so the engine last longer I'm already changing the air filters & Spark plugs.
@@KaiGuy88 Change your oil every 3000 to 4000 miles. I run synthetic oil. Make sure you repair anything that gives you a cel, cause if you don’t all your doing is causing more damage to other components. My car has 232,962 miles and runs really good. I did have to change my radiator cause my radiator fans broke and shot straight to my radiator causing a coolant leak and engine overheating. Fixed it and runs good 👍🏾
The absolute two primary "common problems" on this car are Air blend door actuators AND the Gas pedal sensor. These should be recalled. These issues cover 06-16. The actuators actually predate this platform and go all the way back to the 00 to 05 versions of the Impala. IIRC called the W body. Again, air blend door actuators - buy the entire set. When one goes, another will a few months later if not sooner. Replace them as a set. Otherwise, your mental state will absolutely suffer. As the error produces incessant clicks as the blend door actuators try to return to home. And it does this at every opportunity. Even with no key in ignition. Pop the trunk? Yup, you sent power through the system. It'll bitch at you. Unlocked the doors but didn't put key in ignition? Yup, more clicking!!! (GM decided to use plastic instead of metal gears in the assemblies.) Plus the job is hard enough depending on which one is broken, that you are going to spend a day on this unless you have the perfect set of tools and are a contortionist. So just replace them all and be done with it. The passenger area has a total of FOUR. I'm not sure on the driver side. As I haven't had any issues with it. But trust me, replace all 4 on the passenger side AT ONCE, or don't do the job. As you'll curse for 3 out of 4 of em. So might as well just curse the job once. And if you take it to a dealer, you are looking at $200+ in labor/parts for each one. Where as you can pay $120 through rockauto, OEM, and absorb labor cost. RUclips is your friend. RUclips is your friend. RUclips is your friend. Did I say youtube is your friend yet? RUclips IS YOUR FRIEND! Do not pay a dealer, or independent mechanic. You need to learn to replace these on your own if you are going to own this platform. As they'll break multiple times during ownership. My 2011 only has 63k. I bought it at 42k. I've replaced two so far. YOU WILL replace these multiple times. Gas pedal sensor - again EXTREMELY common should absolutely be a recall. These two parts should always have replacements they are so common. Take an income tax return, buy 8 of the actuators, replace 4 in the vehicle, keep 4 as backup, and buy the gas pedal sensor. Keep it in the car. It's two bolts to replace it when it goes bad. Will absolutely save you from limping the car to a shop or being effectively stranded. Hardest part of the gas pedal replacement is the connector to it. The bolts are easy to access and will zip right out with an impact. You just need the socket (I think it's a 10mm, 13mm, or 15mm. A standard GM facet.) and an extension. Plus the "tool" itself. Again, I can't stress enough, once you know how to unhook the connector to the pedal, the job is easy as hell. Two bolts. Easily accessible, and impact makes short work of them. KEEP A SPARE IN THE TRUNK! These two parts are as common to replace on these vehicles as an oil change. Keep spares at all times. Replace one? Restock your backups. Keep tools in the trunk for the gas pedal sensor. Otherwise, pay a shop. Your choice. Ask me how I know...Yes...I own the 2011 Impala LT (Flex with 3.5l) I also own a 2005 chevy impala, with the 3800 series II. I know these vehicles inside and out. Both cars have spare actuators in the glove box. The 2011 has a spare gas pedal in the trunk. Both vehicles have tools in the trunk. (A "decent" craftsmen 100+ piece aio toolset, fluids, jack, and jack stands. Plus quite a bit of other tools.) You won't see me on the side of the road for long. I've had shit break on these cars from engine sensors (MAP, MAF, oil pressure sensor, coolant level sensor) all the way down to a fucking C clamp that clamped a hard oil line to the oil filter housing. Talking 30 of these costs like $5. My advice? You own a GM vehicle 16 back to 00. Be mechanically inclined. Keep your tools in the trunk. Otherwise, get used to uber. From a 42k car to a 200k car, GM doesn't care. They are still money pits. Another problem I've heard about on the 2011 (4t65e transmission which is also in the 2000 to 2005) is shift solenoids. Honestly, the 4t65e transmission is absolute garbage. But if you own these cars, you can't exactly decide to ditch a transmission. So my advice? Any evidence of a hard shift, or "slippage" and trust me, you'll absolutely feel it and know what I mean, replace the solenoids. $300+ for the set, and a weekend of your own labor. Give or take depending on your ability. Don't take it to the shop unless the tool purchases outweigh shop cost. There's plenty of vids on youtube. Even people who know nothing of cars, can do it. PS: Welcome to GM ownership. Buy an oldschool LS based platform from GM. If you can't afford them, BUY A HONDA/TOYOTA. Any year. Screw anything other than a Camaro, Firebird, or Corvette from GM. (LS based platforms.) GM, is absolute garbage. Enough said. BESIDES their LS platforms. And this is coming from someone who LOVES GM. I'll never purchase another car from them, or on the used market unless it has an LS in it. They made amazing engines, shitty cars. Short blocks, big blocks, 3800 series II/III, LS. But cars? HA!!!! Camaro, Firebird, Corvette.
I came just to like this about the actuator and sensor situation. Experienced first actuator issue back in 2013. Sensor issue in 2012 after returning from long trip to Georgia, headed back to Colorado, 40 something miles away from Colorado Springs area the sensor went out…the longest 40 mile drive ever. Military convoys moves faster! I think my transmission solenoid is starting to act up, along with oil pan seals leak. It was a good 169K, but it has finally become time to trade in Lightning McQueen (my daughter nicknamed it) and get another vehicle. I also hate hat they stopped production of them as well!
@@SFCretiredArmt I completely forgot about the transmission Solenoid. Yup, another big issue on these cars. Mine acts up every once and a while too. And my car only has 63K.
I’ve replaced two of three blend actuator doors, the gas pedal, speed sensor on the transmission, and had the entire transmission rebuilt. Now the windshield defroster isn’t working. This car just broke 80,000 miles.
@@bostongeorge5814i have a 09 LTZ with the 3.9 only 85k miles. Have already done the gas pedal sensor, all engine mounts and trans mount. Just had to fix the harmonic balancer
@@bostongeorge5814 I feel your pain man. I really do. I sold off my 2011. GM has burned me too many times as I said. Unless I get me a LS platform, I'll never buy another GM product again.
Good list! My 2012 LTZ has about 195K, original engine and transmission. I’ve had to replace the purge valve solenoid and power steering pump. I was surprised the infamous blend door actuators weren’t on the list lol.
I've owned two 9th gen. A 2007 LT 3.5 with quite a lot of miles, which I replaced for a very low mile 2013 LT with the (very fun) 3.6 LFX. Honestly? I know these cars very well and although they are not the best car when it comes to reliability, there are far worst cars out there. Things that will break are usually smaller interior parts and other annoying yet not essential parts. Things to take in mind: The 9th gen come with 4 different engines and 2 very different transmissions, one of which has at least two variants. All of these have their unique pros and cons: Pushrod V6's and V8: These come in 3.5 and 3.9 variants, with 215 and 242 HP respectively for the V6's and a 5.3 with 300HP for the V8. These engines are quite solid, smooth and at least with my personal experience with the 3.5 I had zero issues way past 100,000 miles. Although they are know for throttle body issues and even head gasket failures (V6's). So be aware. The water pump issue is with these engines in particular (V6's). I had mine fail at 95,000 miles. I was lucky to notice some bubbly noises behind the dashboard which were the actual coolant leaking and bring air into the system. I never had overheating issues thankfully. The "Limp mode" or "reduced power" issue is also unique to the two pushrod V6 Impalas (3.5 and 3.9). It may also appear in the 5.3 V8 Impala, and it is not only cause by the pedal, but also the throttle body. Be also very careful with the 3.5, 3.9 and 5.3 Impalas. They have a very fragile 4-speed transmission. In the 3.5 it will most likely last through the life of the car, as this transaxle won't have to put up with much torque (if driven gently and well maintained). The 3.9 however, will stress the transmission a lot more, so make sure you have it checked before you get a 3.9. And the 5.3, just get away from it unless you know the transmission has been replaced before buying it. That transmission, even with it's "heavy duty" variant found in the Police version 3.9 and the 5.3, is not meant to handle more than the 3.5's lower power and torque figures. Also, if getting one with the floor mounted shifter, be aware that the linkage on these tends to snap, leaving you pretty much stranded. Always go to a complete stop, put it in park and without releasing the brake, apply the parking brake. That will leave the transmission with zero load on the pin, making it super easy on the shifter cable when pulling it out of park. One last thing: Be aware of the ignition switch in the older Impalas with the pushrod V6's and the V8. It's prone to failure, switching the car off while driving, or causing shorts in the electrical system. And last, the DOHC 3.6 V6 GDi: This engine is found in the last two years of the civilian Impala 9th gen. It's also the same V6 found in the new Impala. It is one heck of an engine, making 306HP (just a tad bit more than the V8). If you want the most power on a relatively cheap car with lower millage, this is probably the best bang for buck. 3.6 Impalas are quick, have good gas millage, and don't have the problems than the older Pushrod V6's. They also have a newer 6-speed transmission which is pretty much unbreakable, apart from being a bit sluggish and sometimes sensitive to weather. But the 3.6 Impalas come with their own set of issues. Most importantly, these are Direct Injection engines, with Variable Valve timing and Dual overhead cams. You can't throw any oil in them like in a good-old pushrod. It has to be a specific oil (5w30) which is thin. This means they can consume oil. So expect to do oil changes more often. They also don't like regular fuel. As in any high compression engine, you gotta go with 91 octane or more, or else you'll have pre-ignition issues. Also, as any GDi, they build up carbon, which further worsens the knocking problem. So have them carbon cleaned if they are in the higher millage range. Other than that, I found my 3.6 to be much more dependable than my old 3.5. Other annoying common problems with all 9th gen that EVERY owner has had to deal with: Water in Fuel codes (fixed by changing the gas cap, cleaning fuel system and topping off tank during harsh weather to avoid condensation). TPM not reading correctly. Stabilitrack issues with Traction Control going off at random, usually when turning the car either left or right. Noticed by a strong pulse in the pedal box area and the car slowing down on its own (caused by a Speed Sensor harness breaking due to poor materials. $20 part. Expect to replace this once every one or two years). And the ever annoying nightmare that are the climate control actuators. these will produce that well-known horrible taping noise behind the dashboard. The three of them can be replaced on your own (there are tutorials everywhere) in between 20 minutes to an hour and they cost about $40 each. Dealership will charge you up to $600 for just one. There! I hope this helps if someone is interested in buying one of these cars. They are not great, but far from the worst. You get an elegant, in some cases, very powerful sedan at a very good millage/price range. Take care of your Impala though! They are not Toyotas.
Awesome! very helpful. I personally really like the 3.6L great power fun to drive, good fuel economy. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
I have a 3.6L with 202k on it. Still a very strong car. I do a lot of milage based maintenance and it seems to have helped a lot. I hope she will last me for a long time. I love my Impala. (2012)
Another very common issue is a bad solenoid in the transmissions that causes a lag followed by a kick when shifting from 1st to 2nd. It requires partial transmission disassembly and typically costs around $1000 at a dealer or trans shop.
I be driving my shit like it's manual my poor torque converter lmao I be banging gears reving to 6k Cutting the gas Then flooring it into the next gear lmao I look goofy when I drive but I love it
I'm surprised this one wasn't mentioned: I've known a few people who have owned this car and they all ended up having the same issue with a persistent ticking noise coming from under the dash on the passenger side when they turn the car off. Turns out it's related to the HVAC system having a badly designed actuator that fails shockingly frequently and isn't (or at least wasn't for them) covered under a recall. And it's a monumental pain (cost and time) to replace.
I got my 09 Impala with 70k miles (old lady owned it) and the moment the season changed, it broke. Ironically the same issue on my old Ford 04 Explorer that I had prior so I was pretty frustrated. My car would only blow cold A/C, while it was the middle of winter so it was a pain.
Hey I'm having this issue it's more noticeable when starting the car when it's cold . As Rpm goes down there's a slight grinding then goes away as the rpm sets . Not sure why it's doing this also there's like a squeal when I accelerate there's like a ticking on passenger side
I have a 2014 Limited (holdback) and the only problem I have had so far has been the blower motor resistor. For some reason it keeps going bad, and I was told it is a common problem. My car has 183000 on it now and to this point has by far been the most solid car I’ve ever owned. It still runs and drives like a new car.
@@yosieden4056if your car has fairly low miles it’s good to do a transmission oil change and gear diff oil change yes but if your car is at 200k+ miles and it’s never had those done then just leave it be. Words of advice from my father who’s been a mechanic 43 years.
Are you talking about the ac actuator ticking noise? Those cheap parts are quite annoying, you’ll put a new one in and it might last 5 years it might last 5 minutes
The day this video came out, I had just had the evap purge solenoid replaced on my 2015 Impala LTZ as it was bad. I had replaced the gas cap prior to taking it in to my mechanic because they said one of the cheapest things to try for a PO455 code was to replace the gas cap. A few days after the evap purge solenoid was replaced the engine light came on again. I took it back in and they did a smoke test and the gas cap was the culprit. They bought another gas cap from NAPA, (where I got my cap), and it didn't seal either. They ended up getting a gas cap from the Chevy dealer and it sealed perfectly and the problem was solved. I don't know if my local NAPA store got some bad gas caps but I've been very happy with all my purchases from them in the past. The mechanic said the napa gas cap didn't seal which was odd since my receipt specifically stated that it was for a 2015 Chevrolet Impala. i am just letting you know what happened in case you also have the same experience. I am not complaining about napa and will continue to shop there.
I've been pretty lucky with my 2007. The only issue I've had was when I wen out of the country for business for three months in 2015 and my wife let it sit instead the entire time instead driving it occasionally and the power steering wires where chewed threw and a nest was built. Other than that I'm still driving it with over 220k with nothing but tires and brakes.
Just a 2020 uipdate. I decided to update to a 2018 Impala (I neve byt a new car - alwasy wait 2-3 years to get all the probkems identified) I actually gave my 2007 Impala to my daighter and her famnily who needed a car desparately when I bought my 2018 Impala, The 2007 has ha ZERO issue (other thatr a brake job) and with all of her driving is almost at 3000,000. If it wasn't for some idiot hitting my parked an unoccupoed car the at Marxx;s store it would be perfect.
Dude I have an 07 too and mines only got 66k miles and I bought it at 40k and things a champ and it’s kinda fast lol I see them everywhere where I live now like they just don’t die
How many miles was car when purchased it god body and how many miles was car after 7years ? And would call it a problem car ? Lemon car? Or reliable car or car that rear needed repairs
@@allanprimassmithbey2422 when I first purchased it, it had just under 19,000 miles on it. Right now it has just over 79,000 miles on it as I don't drive it all that much any more. The only real repairs I've had to do to it is replace the purge valve under the hood and vent valve by the gas tank, which are very common problems with these newer GM vehicles. I've also had to replace a blend door actuator in the glove box twice, which is also a common issue with this vehicle. Otherwise, in the 8 years that I've had it it's been a very reliable vehicle...
LOL. I was expecting the blend door and and mode select actuators to be on the list, as well as the 4T65E transmission (‘06-‘11). But it’s a great car, had mine 10 years no problem (‘10 w/ 120,000 miles)
Yes blend door should have been in there. Its the #1 comment that we have gotten. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
I’m still driving my first car ever! A 2009 Chevy Impala LT. I bought It in February of 2014. I’ve put 100,000+ miles on it and it had 60,000 off the lot! I LOVE THIS CAR! CHEVY FOREVER!
I've owned my 2011 Impala for about 3 years now and only things that have failed so far is the Oil cooler and a couple heater hoses. Heater hoses just went out to rust (I live in Canada rust spreads like the plague up here) and if you're wondering why the hell mine has an oil cooler it's because it has the 3.9L Police engine. PRO TIPS BY THE WAY. IF YOU HAVE A 9C3 POLICE PACKAGE IMPALA AND THE OIL COOLER FAILS. DO NOT GET SCAMMED. There is an adapter that routes the oil through the cooler underneath the oil filter. You can just unscrew the oil filter, take the adapter off, and take the oil cooler out and convert it back to civilian spec by just screwing the oil filter back in. A local auto shop wanted 4750$ to replace that oil cooler because they no longer manufacture them. Took it to another shop, he found the adapter and fixed the issue for 50 bucks. Since the car is decommissioned you're not going to be idling it all day and wont need the oil cooler anyways.
I guess I'm just a lucky guy that got good 1 it's a 07 I'm the second owner 3.9 I bought it at 100,000 miles had it for years and it has 220,000 miles now no problems changed the alternator once service regularly been all over the country in it lol glad I didn't have to deal with those issues lol
No bull service all your shit on time and you wont have issues not every car is going to be the same people have alot of problems with the 3.5 liter engine the LT basic with no extras I got the 3.9 liter engine with LTZ package with all the extra stuff its been a good car I'd say the only reason you're calling bullshit is you got a bad 1 lol
Mine is 2010 LT, 3.5L engine. Was 100K miles when I bought it, a bit over 200K now. I replaced water pump, motor mounts and a CV axle. Other than that it's been mostly maintenance. I have yet to change spark plugs on it though lol.. will get them done this month for sure.
hot engine ac off warning is a common problem. Sometimes it's the temp sensor, sometimes it's the thermostat. if you take it to a shop watch they don't start the parts cannon. Some shops just replace both and don't try to find the bad part
Have a 2011 impala with 135k, great car, hasn’t given me any issues other then the common ac blend door actuator and coolant temperature sensor which is minor. Been a super reliable vehicle.
For the accelerator pedal I cleaned the connector with electronic cleaner connect it right back and erase the code with my obd2 scanner. No more reduced power! Saved me 100 dollars for a brand new one.
I have a 09 3.5 LT and I was looking for a vacation car and it is a very comfortable vehicle for traveling in. So far it has had all three ventilator actuators replaced by me, a battery, I bought it in 2012 it had only 60k it now has 145k and I must say I am impressed with the quality and reliability of the car, it’s a daily driver and I do all my maintenance on it, I don’t care what car you have if you don’t do at least the minimum maintenance sooner or later it will catch up with you. I did install a transmission cooler on it for peace of mind. Also rust has not been an issue. I am happy with it
The best years for these generation impala was the 2012 and 2013. The 6 speed auto with the 3.6 has proven to be quite reliable i own a 2012 with 176k i put about 1k miles a week. Nothing but routine maintenance
Bought a used 2008, there was so much wrong with it. Leaking coolant, engine mounts destroyed, tie rods, assembly hubs, etc. It’s the owners who were careless about it. But if you take care of it or bring it back to life, it’s an ok car. It’s just the anxiety of ‘what’s the next repair?’ Smh
Well that's why anytime you buy a used car. You do it major tune up on it. Change coolant hoses, have suspension check an replaced what is needed and get new tires as well alignment.
Well when you buy a OLDER. tired car with a few thousand miles your going to have problems....Try buying a newer Impala with less than 90,000 miles and you WONT have all those problems......😅😅😅
I’m watching this video because I’m looking at one from the FB marketplace tomorrow (2012 3.6 engine) and may buy it. Just under 180k miles owner said it’s had a transmission fluid service done before and they want a little under $3k which in this day and age for a running and driving car I think it’s worth the gamble and learn about fixing it WHEN it breaks. Currently waiting on my Subaru to come back from the shop with a $2k repair bill which is still cheaper than buying a new car and I couldn’t do the repair myself.
My stablitrak light is on right now which cause my abs and traction control light to come on and when I press on the gas I’m hearing a grinding noise can someone explain to me what the problem may be?
Yep, I had both wheel bearings go out in the front just 4 months apart from each other (~115K). Also had both Blend Door Actuators go out separately (~125K). And had to have the transmission rebuilt (114K) despite changing the transmission fluid faithfully. Those would be the "Top 3" on my list.
278,000 miles on mine so far. None of these issues yet. Had to change out the catalytic converter. And I’m on the third set of clicking air door actuators. Other than that, solid car. One of the better Chevys made in my opinion.
These are mainly issues with the 2006-2013 models... The 2014-2016 Version is a Fleet Production and had all upgraded parts comparable to the 10th generation that it overlapped.
Bought a 16 impala with 30k on it in 2017, just hit 120k and still runs like new. changed trans fluid at 90k, oil every 5k, Basic maintenance. Had it almost 8yrs. Best car I've ever owned! hands down! PS still running original brake pads, three set of tires tech was floored says It looks like they will need to be changed soon though. OEM brakes pads lasting 120k, have you ever!
2015 Impala Limited LT: Wire strands break inside the insulation at the wheel sensor harness. Throws out a traction control and ABS warning. Dealer couldn't find it and convinced me to change the hub & sensor assembly for $400. Problem returned two days later and was told by dealer it was the transmission and would cost $5000 to replace. Said it was just a coincidence it happened at the same time. Diagnosed the problem myself after watching youtoube and showed this to the service manager. He said their was no service bulletin, and they don't use info from "the internet" . Bought the OEM GM replacement harness on Amazon for $38 and fixed the problem. The fact it's in stock and cheap should be a hint this is a popular part. Also, replaced steering rack, water pump, and radiator. Had the dealer changed the serpentine belt but they didn't change the pulley and tensioner which caused a later failure. Motor & transmission mounts and torque strut replaced. Shocks, Struts, and cracked strut mounts replaced. Alternator replaced. All three blend door actuators replaced. Connector at blower motor resistor is a problem. Replacement pigtail is junk and failed again - had to make my own. Car has 167,000 hard miles on beat up roads, so I expect much of this wear. Just replaced the plugs which amazingly were working fine. Have been consistent on transmission and engine oil changes. Engine (V6) feels like it has a much torque as new. Trans shifts a little hard but no slipping noted. Overall quite happy with this car and would buy again. Bought it used from Enterprise car rental in 2017 with 26K miles for $13K.
My 2015 Impala limited has been very good to me. The only problem I’ve had is the ABS Wire Harness. Which a lot of mechanics get it confused with the wheel bearing or wheel speed sensor. The symptoms would be the Abs light, traction and service stabilitrak coming on at the same time. And you’ll hear a groaning/grinding noise while making sharp turns. Mostly left turns for me. It’s a real pain, gonna have to take my car to the shop later.
my PCV hose was broken, sucking lots of unfiltered air that the CPU does not know where it is coming from. The CPU richens the mixture to match the leak. The mixture is already too rich. The car stumbles. I was working at Ford KTP in Louisville and working on my Impala in parking lot in the rain one morning. worked 7 to 7 ...hahhahahahah
@@Views-xx2wt It made some weird noise while turning. It was always on the drivers side, & it would hesitate while making the turn But other than that it drove normal
The 06-16 Impala came with 4 different motors during its run. 3.5, 3.6, 3.9 and 5.3. For the EVAP purge problem, you should make sure to inform the viewers which motor has this issue as the lesser informed will not be able to spot the difference between the 4 different motors as the 3.5 and 3.9 are a much different V6 than the 3.6 and likewise the 5.3.
You’re 100% sure I just bought a 2013 Chevy and Paula I’m not quite sure what motor it has her what style LTZ or what not or LT model but could you go in more detail of what the differences in how to be able to tell
I have been considering this gem Impala, I own a 32 year old Chevy truck and I've been having to commute to work on my wife's explorer because it's way better on gas but the 3.5 Impala looks like a very solid commuter car, all of the issues I've seen them have aren't terrible and I see them all of the time with over 300,000 miles still going.
Thank you so much for this video, It is very informative. I love the way you explain what the problem could be and what needs to be done to fix it while showing pictures of what you are talking about, it helps everything make sense. I can honestly say I learned so much from this short video and with me being a woman it is great to have this knowledge when taking a car for repairs at the local auto repair shop. Again many, many thanks !!
I had the same problem on my 2012 Chevy impala I was almost going to have the rear window replaced because the glass place told me you cannot repair it well, I repaired it with the proper soldering techniques. I replace the contact to the windshield reconnected it and it’s been working ever sense.
Great list guys. I've had many of these issues, most expensive has been power steering leak, replaced pump and rack. It's better but still not 100% , still have to add fluid if steering pump whining, even tho dipstick shows full. Also replaced oil pressure sensor and pedal position sensor. Also getting "Service Stabilitrak" error message on dash, which I just ignore. Also the rear window defroster wire burns out at the fuse box located at the passenger side kick panel.
the Stabilitrac error is a recall item. I spent over 2 grand for a douche to tell me nothing wrong. then chevy dealer alerted me to a recall item...water in wires.
Having issues with my power steering making a whining sound as of yesterday so now I’m just having anxiety 🤦🏻♀️🤦🏻♀️😐 put fluid in and it’s still whining just not as loud
@@martin1b No. You need to drop the sub-frame a bit at an angle to get the side cover off. And replace both. There are 2, which are exactly the same. I just changed these on my brother's car. Shifts 10x better.
I have a 2013 with the 3.6, the only problem I had was with the flex fuel sensor. I did some research and found out it was covered under a recall and the Chevy dealer fixed it for free!
So I bought a 2007 Chevy Impala lt. 3.5 L. I know I overpaid for it but whatever, they were offering it for 2200, I talked down to 1800, It had approximately 160,000 mi. Two and a half years later, it currently has a 198,661 mi. I have spent close to about $7,000-%8000 on this car. Let's start the fun, I have a replaced rack and pinion, or power steering rack, power steering pump, both high and low pressure power steer lines. Radiator, 2 sets of spark plugs, spark plug wires, sway bar end links (twice), sway bar bushings, front struts twice, I bought crappy Detroit Axle the first time never again, learned my lesson. Back struts, all four brake calipers, brake pads rotors ( twice), all four wheel bearings, inner and Outer tie rods ( pass side twice), both front lower control arms, both transmission lines. The clock spring in the steering wheel. Both O2 sensors, ignition coil pack, map sensor, crank sensor, the flex pipe from the manifold to the cat, back sway bar links or stabilizer end-links. 1 fuel injector, ( just cleaned other 5), 5 fuel injector o- rings ( 2 o-rings for each injector, intake plenum gasket, oil filer house, and gasket ( I think that's what its called), complete transmission fluid replacement with transmission pan filter, battery, ( was everstart max and was 5½ years old) the two front motor mounts that are pretty much right there as soon as you open the Hood, the side engin/transmission mount honestly think that's it, but could be wrong.
Thanks. I would add HVAC blend motors to that list. They only last about 50k miles before the plastic gears start failing, and they make a loud clicking noise in the cabin.
I have a 2011 LT this is a good car when it wants to be! I've had this car for seven years. Its in the shop right now. Fixing the blower motor for the third time. This is the 2nd time this year. My horn hasn't worked in years. They've put 2 new horns in and it still doesn't work. I also got the actuators fixed so many times. The gas pedal as well. Its a good car when it wants to be a good car.
I replaced my emission parts and still had a code. Sprayed cleaner in the manifold where valve is and code went away never came back. Little dirt is a problem with vacuum.
Yes this was very common on the generation before this also. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
I have an 08 LTZ. I replaced the hollow sway bar with a Dorman solid bar. I just test drove it today. In an empty large parking lot, I pounded it through sharp lefts and right turns. It's response blew my mind! It handled like an Indy car! Treat yourself and replace it. I'm so impressed I'm still grinning!
@@isidraordaz2094 It's a heavy steel, like a solid pipe about 5feet long with a slight shape. It connects just behind the driver's front wheel and travels sideways over to behind the passenger's front wheel. Each end has a connection to the lower control arm. These link pins are like a bolt with rubber bushings. The purpose of the sway bar is to reduce the amount the car leans or lifts side to side when you take a corner. There are great videos on RUclips detailing the replacement. I hope that helps! Peace.
top 5 Transmission, evap, rear window(wire burns out--checked 6 at the junk yard and they had same issue), oil pressure sensor, actuator, these cars have 3 actuators, and they go out at different times. shop/ dealer cost about 100.00 each repair, do it yourself about 25 dollars each repair. I am no mechanic, but i owned a 07 SS for about 12 years and 285,000 miles. My brother has it now and still driving.
@@BoiBoiGTA if you are talking over all, no. The transmission is what it is. Depends on where you take it. I am assuming you will do most repairs yourself.
@@wilmoney4201 Is the transmission expensive to fix ? I heard the transmissions go out on these cars often, I could fix the minor repairs myself but not the transmission
Great video. Some other common issues that plaque those vehicles and chevys around those early years are blend door actuators failing and the Intermediate steering shaft.
Not sure you will see this but how do you know its the intermediate shaft I replaced rack and pump and I'm feeling some tension in the steering occasionally
2008 impala. Changed all the imission parts light still on. Took off vent line at manifold spayed carb cleaner and I turned off light. Never came on again. Quick clean all is needed.
I watched this video like 10 times. I have a Chevy Impala 2012. Now I do delivery orders for a living. What can I do? To keep up with the essentials.. (I really enjoy driving.) Can we connect? I'm always out and about. I prefer to live life, not stuck in a building. I enjoy the consistency of delivering orders. 😅 ❤
Looking for something a little more fuel efficient than my truck for my commute to work and this car is on my radar. They're the only reasonably priced cars in my area that I feel like might last a few years without a significant repair being needed.
I have a 2006 impala and have never had any of these issues...the odd thing is this video doesn't touch on one of the biggest problems with this gen of impala and that's a slipping transmission or erratic shifting transmission. That is by far the biggest issue I've had with the car since i bought it and is still going on today...it started to happen around 40,000 miles and is still going on. Another issue is the rear window defrost not working because of a wire burn through by the right kick panel (passenger side kick panel). Also clicking inside the dash due to an hvac actuator going bad...all of these issues are common on this gen impala...
Yes Rob you are correct. Some of these problems should have made it in the video. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
@@marcopolo5541 i changed it and less than a year later it started again. I said screw it and a while later it just stopped. I dont know if it stuck now it working fine but it doesnt seem to be an issue.
dont forget about issues with the transmission , i have heard about that , and i have the same problem going on , impala are excellent riding , and are excellent gas mileage .
My 2008 LTZ now has 175,000 miles on it. I am the original owner and took good care of it. Actuator doors are the most annoying to replace and go frequently. One door is a bear to replace and the door on the passenger side is a snap. Ill drive it until it doesn’t roll on its own. Im retired and on a fixed income. I fear my driving days are coming to an end and cannot imagine life without the freedom a car provides. Still, imtake life one day at a time.
My 2016 Impala Limited Police 9C3 rpm’s dance up and down on a cold start and it feels sluggish when in reverse, especially when wanting to give power quickly to back up. Transmission is exceptional.
+matt Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
What is the problem with windows fogging up with heat on high with the defroster on? Not able to clear windows in full defrost and heat in full high. Checked the water drain on the front bulkhead and is clear of any debris. What else should be checked?
Transmission was a big issue I’ve repaired many of these transmissions … the steering rack and pinion and power steering pump was another issue with these cars
Power seat motor. Window regulators, BLEND door actuators, Radiator cap. Knock sensor. This entire car seems to be made of plastic. Just look at it wrong and something will break. Excellent video!
Had an 06 that leaked from manifold gasket and oil got all over the starter which caused it to die. Also developed transmission shuddering when starting from stop. It did last until I got rid of it at 207xxx but I only had it for 20k miles.
I went through 4/5 power steering pumps (Warranty Defects) and a rack...along with two window regulators (Driver side)...but no problems since :) 110k and running strong #3.5
Good motors bad transmissions. Mine started going at about 70k miles. Still under warranty, it was an intermittent issue at that time. It would slip at a stop sign and slam into gear when it would catch. Found out later after the warranty was done that it was so common that GM allowed dealerships to cover them under a longer warranty period. By the time mine got bad enough to where they would be sure to find it I was well past of course. I changed the transmission and so far it's been good since.
True there is some other issues that didn't make our top 5. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
My dad just bought a ‘06 SS and yeah that blend door actuator seen better days. He loves it and I love my ‘03 LS with the 3.8 in it that I got from him when he got the SS
I’ve had my impala 2 years and got it with 150000km and changed the oil once and no other issues else it’s such a good car and has 215 hp which makes me cream
Blend door actuators, coolant temp sensor, throttle body, accel pedal, oil leaks from valve covers and oil pan, and 1st gear jerk in transmission. Biggest issue is really the owners beating the piss out of them
I love how on my 2015 Impala Limited LT (same car, just called the limited 14-16 because the 10th gen was out) I've only had the EVAP Purge and did it myself. Water pump, rack, pedal, pre-tensioners? Factory. Even the plugs, coils, timing, and I'd say about 85% or more is factory. I only changed the idler, tensioner, and belt cause I thought they were the cause of a squeal, they weren't but I simply kept the old parts as backup. And that's at 202k miles, about 300-350 miles a week. Only other issues have been 7 hubs (not the hubs actually, just the TCS wiring rubbing out, actually spoke with GM, they revised it with wire loom now over the harness), 3 radiators (shit end tank design), and the blend door actuator. 1 radiator and 2 hubs were out of warranty, the rest, all under warranty from factory plus 2 extensions on the warranty. Save an absolute mountain of cash. If this one dies, my plans are to get another one as low of mileage I can find, but this time in Crystal Tricoat Red with black interior.
Chevy Impala Problem (Owner of 3.9L V6 9C1 09 Impala) Door Lock Actuators - DIY eBay universal lock actuator Rear Defrost Non Functional- Bypass With new wire in passenger side foot fuse box . Usally burnt out. Cut and wire together. Ac actuator that causes loud knock in glove box just replace the motor Sway bars are usally broke as well on these cars Tpms is usally garbage so I suggest replacing them Transmission eventually may go out so prep with some sort of repair coverage Pedal sensor eventually so replace Overheating usually it’s the water pump/thermostat and change pulleys if can AC Compressor may also need replacing for no cold air even after you tried a recharge Car runs well on 93 Octane Better to run full synthetic oil and run a coolant flush regularly.
The main problems that I've experienced that weren't mentioned are: - Coolant Temp Sensor (Warning - "Engine Hot, Turn Off A/C") - Oil Pressure Sensor (Warning - "Oil Pressure Low, Turn Off Engine") - Air Vent Actuators (Both - Clicking Sound) - Throttle Body Position Sensor (RPM fluctuation while accelerating)
My car is smoking underneath the whole catalytic converter is covered in oil. Replaced the oil filter gasket , oil pan gasket , valve cover gaskets. And it’s still smoking please help my car always smells like burnt and when the car is on I see smoke coming from under the car
HEY!! I HAVE A 07 CHECK OUT THE CRANK SHAFT SEAL ITS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE AT THE BOTTOM it leaks oil down at the bottom of the vehicle! There are plenty of RUclips videos on it
I would recommend degreasing the engine and exhaust really good. look for more leaks, if it is one of the newer ones timing covers leak oil. Make sure its engine oil and not something else. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
another problem is if you have a performance oil based air filter like a K&N, is to watch out for the oil to contact the map sensor. I did and had about 5 trouble codes. I clean my map every three months. If you have never cleaned one, it is a great performance boost
@@palmcoast26 I know that I'm just saying. Some cars don't respond well to k n filters. Most cars that I have had with installed I normally clean it good then let it air dry for day from the water. Then light spray the oil an let dry another day. Never had any problems with it messing up the map sensor.
@@1AAuto yeah! I love watching your videos, I've watched a few and have been able to do minor things to my car. I'm not really a good fixer upper but I have learned a lot. I do love Impalas, at least mine anyway!
Clyde I have an 08 lt that's pushing 200k miles noticing an issue with clutch slip which apparently is a common issue too. Engine revs for a sec when you give it gas then it'll jerk forward hard.
@@benstuff8758 is that just low transmission fluid? My car does that if I'm thinking the same thing. Like you are at a dead stop give it some gas and it'll be sluggish then BAM off it goes? Lol that's how it seems to me. And sometimes it'll make a hard shift when I'm driving on this 1 gear it seems. Just once and awhile. Just noticed that happening.
@@clydeharrell1216 unfortunately its not. Its just badly designed transmissions. I've tried flushing my transmission fluid and replacing the filter which temporarily eased up the issue only for it to come back about a month later.
The first one Evap purge valve. Another symptom that occurs is when refueling your car with gas the car has a hard time starting. Thought it was the fuel pump but it was just the Evap purge valve. I drive a 2012 Chevy impala LT.
I have a 2012 impala and the evaporator sensor went bad and I replaced it myself. Its easy to do. It doesn't affect anything but the car won't pass the emissions test without it working right.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
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Forgot the door blend actuator driver and passenger side
Hey what if the airbag light comes on when I start the car and stays on for a while? What could I do if that happens and if I checked the connections under both seats?
What engine was in this Impala? I would assume it's the 3.6 that would soon be in the 10th gen Impala.
Haven't had any of these issues but have replaced all the HVAC actuators.
Ooee
The air vent actuator is another part that goes out a lot in this car too
Indeed it does , went out and changed it in my father in laws impala a couple of months ago
Facts
Don't let it be hot and that thing start clicking omg
Good call! That should have been in the video. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
When I have my air on I have a ticking noise under the driverside dash.
I’ve owned two of these , and still have a low mileage 2013 LTZ. I think you forgot about those damn blend door actuators. Lol
Please, don't even mention those... "TAP TAP TAP TAP"... I've replaced all three of them at least twice in the past year.
The blend doors seem to be very failure prone. Click click click
I don't know why they just don't make a metal gear actuator instead of the plastic stuff. They are somewhat difficult to reach
@@TheHuskyGT lmao same here, one already broke again and I’m just not gonna fix it again until I sell the impala 😂
Absolutely facts! And if you replace it, you better use an oem Chevy part. Don't use the aftermarket one.
2009 impala with 217,000 miles still runs like a champ, good cars if you maintain them well
I just got a 2009 with 99,000 miles on it. What things
should I upgrade/replace & keep up with so the
engine last longer I'm already changing the air filters
& Spark plugs.
@@KaiGuy88 Change your oil every 3000 to 4000 miles. I run synthetic oil. Make sure you repair anything that gives you a cel, cause if you don’t all your doing is causing more damage to other components. My car has 232,962 miles and runs really good. I did have to change my radiator cause my radiator fans broke and shot straight to my radiator causing a coolant leak and engine overheating. Fixed it and runs good 👍🏾
Any advice on how to maintain it? I have a 2009 Impala LS runs awesome but seems to have coolant leak issue
3.5 or 3.8?
3.5 or 3.8?
The absolute two primary "common problems" on this car are Air blend door actuators AND the Gas pedal sensor. These should be recalled. These issues cover 06-16. The actuators actually predate this platform and go all the way back to the 00 to 05 versions of the Impala. IIRC called the W body.
Again, air blend door actuators - buy the entire set. When one goes, another will a few months later if not sooner. Replace them as a set. Otherwise, your mental state will absolutely suffer. As the error produces incessant clicks as the blend door actuators try to return to home. And it does this at every opportunity. Even with no key in ignition. Pop the trunk? Yup, you sent power through the system. It'll bitch at you. Unlocked the doors but didn't put key in ignition? Yup, more clicking!!! (GM decided to use plastic instead of metal gears in the assemblies.) Plus the job is hard enough depending on which one is broken, that you are going to spend a day on this unless you have the perfect set of tools and are a contortionist. So just replace them all and be done with it. The passenger area has a total of FOUR. I'm not sure on the driver side. As I haven't had any issues with it. But trust me, replace all 4 on the passenger side AT ONCE, or don't do the job. As you'll curse for 3 out of 4 of em. So might as well just curse the job once. And if you take it to a dealer, you are looking at $200+ in labor/parts for each one. Where as you can pay $120 through rockauto, OEM, and absorb labor cost. RUclips is your friend. RUclips is your friend. RUclips is your friend. Did I say youtube is your friend yet? RUclips IS YOUR FRIEND! Do not pay a dealer, or independent mechanic. You need to learn to replace these on your own if you are going to own this platform. As they'll break multiple times during ownership. My 2011 only has 63k. I bought it at 42k. I've replaced two so far. YOU WILL replace these multiple times.
Gas pedal sensor - again EXTREMELY common should absolutely be a recall. These two parts should always have replacements they are so common. Take an income tax return, buy 8 of the actuators, replace 4 in the vehicle, keep 4 as backup, and buy the gas pedal sensor. Keep it in the car. It's two bolts to replace it when it goes bad. Will absolutely save you from limping the car to a shop or being effectively stranded. Hardest part of the gas pedal replacement is the connector to it. The bolts are easy to access and will zip right out with an impact. You just need the socket (I think it's a 10mm, 13mm, or 15mm. A standard GM facet.) and an extension. Plus the "tool" itself. Again, I can't stress enough, once you know how to unhook the connector to the pedal, the job is easy as hell. Two bolts. Easily accessible, and impact makes short work of them. KEEP A SPARE IN THE TRUNK! These two parts are as common to replace on these vehicles as an oil change. Keep spares at all times. Replace one? Restock your backups. Keep tools in the trunk for the gas pedal sensor. Otherwise, pay a shop. Your choice.
Ask me how I know...Yes...I own the 2011 Impala LT (Flex with 3.5l) I also own a 2005 chevy impala, with the 3800 series II. I know these vehicles inside and out. Both cars have spare actuators in the glove box. The 2011 has a spare gas pedal in the trunk. Both vehicles have tools in the trunk. (A "decent" craftsmen 100+ piece aio toolset, fluids, jack, and jack stands. Plus quite a bit of other tools.) You won't see me on the side of the road for long. I've had shit break on these cars from engine sensors (MAP, MAF, oil pressure sensor, coolant level sensor) all the way down to a fucking C clamp that clamped a hard oil line to the oil filter housing. Talking 30 of these costs like $5. My advice? You own a GM vehicle 16 back to 00. Be mechanically inclined. Keep your tools in the trunk. Otherwise, get used to uber. From a 42k car to a 200k car, GM doesn't care. They are still money pits.
Another problem I've heard about on the 2011 (4t65e transmission which is also in the 2000 to 2005) is shift solenoids. Honestly, the 4t65e transmission is absolute garbage. But if you own these cars, you can't exactly decide to ditch a transmission. So my advice? Any evidence of a hard shift, or "slippage" and trust me, you'll absolutely feel it and know what I mean, replace the solenoids. $300+ for the set, and a weekend of your own labor. Give or take depending on your ability. Don't take it to the shop unless the tool purchases outweigh shop cost. There's plenty of vids on youtube. Even people who know nothing of cars, can do it.
PS: Welcome to GM ownership. Buy an oldschool LS based platform from GM. If you can't afford them, BUY A HONDA/TOYOTA. Any year. Screw anything other than a Camaro, Firebird, or Corvette from GM. (LS based platforms.) GM, is absolute garbage. Enough said. BESIDES their LS platforms. And this is coming from someone who LOVES GM. I'll never purchase another car from them, or on the used market unless it has an LS in it. They made amazing engines, shitty cars. Short blocks, big blocks, 3800 series II/III, LS. But cars? HA!!!! Camaro, Firebird, Corvette.
I came just to like this about the actuator and sensor situation. Experienced first actuator issue back in 2013. Sensor issue in 2012 after returning from long trip to Georgia, headed back to Colorado, 40 something miles away from Colorado Springs area the sensor went out…the longest 40 mile drive ever. Military convoys moves faster! I think my transmission solenoid is starting to act up, along with oil pan seals leak. It was a good 169K, but it has finally become time to trade in Lightning McQueen (my daughter nicknamed it) and get another vehicle. I also hate hat they stopped production of them as well!
@@SFCretiredArmt I completely forgot about the transmission Solenoid. Yup, another big issue on these cars. Mine acts up every once and a while too. And my car only has 63K.
I’ve replaced two of three blend actuator doors, the gas pedal, speed sensor on the transmission, and had the entire transmission rebuilt. Now the windshield defroster isn’t working. This car just broke 80,000 miles.
@@bostongeorge5814i have a 09 LTZ with the 3.9 only 85k miles. Have already done the gas pedal sensor, all engine mounts and trans mount. Just had to fix the harmonic balancer
@@bostongeorge5814 I feel your pain man. I really do. I sold off my 2011. GM has burned me too many times as I said. Unless I get me a LS platform, I'll never buy another GM product again.
Good list! My 2012 LTZ has about 195K, original engine and transmission. I’ve had to replace the purge valve solenoid and power steering pump. I was surprised the infamous blend door actuators weren’t on the list lol.
Yes the actuators is a problem. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
Purge valve solenoid is real common mine has 138,000 and, I’ve had to replace that twice already.
How did the transmision not go out ?
Yes as the door lock actuators but other than that these cars are awesome best front wheel drive cars gm made sad they don’t make them anymore
Now that you said that ......
I've owned two 9th gen. A 2007 LT 3.5 with quite a lot of miles, which I replaced for a very low mile 2013 LT with the (very fun) 3.6 LFX. Honestly? I know these cars very well and although they are not the best car when it comes to reliability, there are far worst cars out there. Things that will break are usually smaller interior parts and other annoying yet not essential parts. Things to take in mind: The 9th gen come with 4 different engines and 2 very different transmissions, one of which has at least two variants. All of these have their unique pros and cons:
Pushrod V6's and V8: These come in 3.5 and 3.9 variants, with 215 and 242 HP respectively for the V6's and a 5.3 with 300HP for the V8. These engines are quite solid, smooth and at least with my personal experience with the 3.5 I had zero issues way past 100,000 miles. Although they are know for throttle body issues and even head gasket failures (V6's). So be aware. The water pump issue is with these engines in particular (V6's). I had mine fail at 95,000 miles. I was lucky to notice some bubbly noises behind the dashboard which were the actual coolant leaking and bring air into the system. I never had overheating issues thankfully.
The "Limp mode" or "reduced power" issue is also unique to the two pushrod V6 Impalas (3.5 and 3.9). It may also appear in the 5.3 V8 Impala, and it is not only cause by the pedal, but also the throttle body.
Be also very careful with the 3.5, 3.9 and 5.3 Impalas. They have a very fragile 4-speed transmission. In the 3.5 it will most likely last through the life of the car, as this transaxle won't have to put up with much torque (if driven gently and well maintained). The 3.9 however, will stress the transmission a lot more, so make sure you have it checked before you get a 3.9. And the 5.3, just get away from it unless you know the transmission has been replaced before buying it. That transmission, even with it's "heavy duty" variant found in the Police version 3.9 and the 5.3, is not meant to handle more than the 3.5's lower power and torque figures. Also, if getting one with the floor mounted shifter, be aware that the linkage on these tends to snap, leaving you pretty much stranded. Always go to a complete stop, put it in park and without releasing the brake, apply the parking brake. That will leave the transmission with zero load on the pin, making it super easy on the shifter cable when pulling it out of park.
One last thing: Be aware of the ignition switch in the older Impalas with the pushrod V6's and the V8. It's prone to failure, switching the car off while driving, or causing shorts in the electrical system.
And last, the DOHC 3.6 V6 GDi: This engine is found in the last two years of the civilian Impala 9th gen. It's also the same V6 found in the new Impala. It is one heck of an engine, making 306HP (just a tad bit more than the V8). If you want the most power on a relatively cheap car with lower millage, this is probably the best bang for buck. 3.6 Impalas are quick, have good gas millage, and don't have the problems than the older Pushrod V6's. They also have a newer 6-speed transmission which is pretty much unbreakable, apart from being a bit sluggish and sometimes sensitive to weather.
But the 3.6 Impalas come with their own set of issues. Most importantly, these are Direct Injection engines, with Variable Valve timing and Dual overhead cams. You can't throw any oil in them like in a good-old pushrod. It has to be a specific oil (5w30) which is thin. This means they can consume oil. So expect to do oil changes more often. They also don't like regular fuel. As in any high compression engine, you gotta go with 91 octane or more, or else you'll have pre-ignition issues. Also, as any GDi, they build up carbon, which further worsens the knocking problem. So have them carbon cleaned if they are in the higher millage range. Other than that, I found my 3.6 to be much more dependable than my old 3.5.
Other annoying common problems with all 9th gen that EVERY owner has had to deal with: Water in Fuel codes (fixed by changing the gas cap, cleaning fuel system and topping off tank during harsh weather to avoid condensation). TPM not reading correctly. Stabilitrack issues with Traction Control going off at random, usually when turning the car either left or right. Noticed by a strong pulse in the pedal box area and the car slowing down on its own (caused by a Speed Sensor harness breaking due to poor materials. $20 part. Expect to replace this once every one or two years). And the ever annoying nightmare that are the climate control actuators. these will produce that well-known horrible taping noise behind the dashboard. The three of them can be replaced on your own (there are tutorials everywhere) in between 20 minutes to an hour and they cost about $40 each. Dealership will charge you up to $600 for just one.
There! I hope this helps if someone is interested in buying one of these cars. They are not great, but far from the worst. You get an elegant, in some cases, very powerful sedan at a very good millage/price range. Take care of your Impala though! They are not Toyotas.
Awesome! very helpful. I personally really like the 3.6L great power fun to drive, good fuel economy. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
How bad is it replacing the water pump on the 3.6?
Do the 2006 PPV models come with Stabilitrack?
I have a 3.6L with 202k on it. Still a very strong car. I do a lot of milage based maintenance and it seems to have helped a lot. I hope she will last me for a long time. I love my Impala. (2012)
@@bc4134 I have 210k on my 06 3.9L PPV. For a car that has been abused most of its life, it still runs super strong.
Another very common issue is a bad solenoid in the transmissions that causes a lag followed by a kick when shifting from 1st to 2nd. It requires partial transmission disassembly and typically costs around $1000 at a dealer or trans shop.
I be driving my shit like it's manual my poor torque converter lmao I be banging gears reving to 6k Cutting the gas Then flooring it into the next gear lmao I look goofy when I drive but I love it
Do you know if it gave a code.. I have the same issue but dealer says no code.. smh..
Dang $1k alright good to know
1600 to 1800 here
I think that’s what’s going on with mine
I'm surprised this one wasn't mentioned: I've known a few people who have owned this car and they all ended up having the same issue with a persistent ticking noise coming from under the dash on the passenger side when they turn the car off. Turns out it's related to the HVAC system having a badly designed actuator that fails shockingly frequently and isn't (or at least wasn't for them) covered under a recall. And it's a monumental pain (cost and time) to replace.
Rough mine has this tick
I got my 09 Impala with 70k miles (old lady owned it) and the moment the season changed, it broke. Ironically the same issue on my old Ford 04 Explorer that I had prior so I was pretty frustrated. My car would only blow cold A/C, while it was the middle of winter so it was a pain.
Hey I'm having this issue it's more noticeable when starting the car when it's cold . As Rpm goes down there's a slight grinding then goes away as the rpm sets . Not sure why it's doing this also there's like a squeal when I accelerate there's like a ticking on passenger side
@@1smae100 might have rod knock
@@1smae100yeah the ac actuator would have nothing to do with you pressing the gas, separate issues
I have a 2014 Limited (holdback) and the only problem I have had so far has been the blower motor resistor. For some reason it keeps going bad, and I was told it is a common problem. My car has 183000 on it now and to this point has by far been the most solid car I’ve ever owned. It still runs and drives like a new car.
Did you change the blower motor with it?
Hi Hello
I have a 2017 Chevrolet Impala LTZ
Do you change the transmission fluid? Is there any danger in changing the gearbox oil????
@@yosieden4056if your car has fairly low miles it’s good to do a transmission oil change and gear diff oil change yes but if your car is at 200k+ miles and it’s never had those done then just leave it be. Words of advice from my father who’s been a mechanic 43 years.
Are you talking about the ac actuator ticking noise? Those cheap parts are quite annoying, you’ll put a new one in and it might last 5 years it might last 5 minutes
The day this video came out, I had just had the evap purge solenoid replaced on my 2015 Impala LTZ as it was bad. I had replaced the gas cap prior to taking it in to my mechanic because they said one of the cheapest things to try for a PO455 code was to replace the gas cap. A few days after the evap purge solenoid was replaced the engine light came on again. I took it back in and they did a smoke test and the gas cap was the culprit. They bought another gas cap from NAPA, (where I got my cap), and it didn't seal either. They ended up getting a gas cap from the Chevy dealer and it sealed perfectly and the problem was solved. I don't know if my local NAPA store got some bad gas caps but I've been very happy with all my purchases from them in the past. The mechanic said the napa gas cap didn't seal which was odd since my receipt specifically stated that it was for a 2015 Chevrolet Impala. i am just letting you know what happened in case you also have the same experience. I am not complaining about napa and will continue to shop there.
+Brian Wanberg Thanks for the feedback!
I've been pretty lucky with my 2007. The only issue I've had was when I wen out of the country for business for three months in 2015 and my wife let it sit instead the entire time instead driving it occasionally and the power steering wires where chewed threw and a nest was built. Other than that I'm still driving it with over 220k with nothing but tires and brakes.
Yep ill jinx myself for sure here but ive had great luck with my old impala. If i have any of these issues...ill be thrilled. NOthing major
Just a 2020 uipdate. I decided to update to a 2018 Impala (I neve byt a new car - alwasy wait 2-3 years to get all the probkems identified) I actually gave my 2007 Impala to my daighter and her famnily who needed a car desparately when I bought my 2018 Impala, The 2007 has ha ZERO issue (other thatr a brake job) and with all of her driving is almost at 3000,000. If it wasn't for some idiot hitting my parked an unoccupoed car the at Marxx;s store it would be perfect.
Dude I have an 07 too and mines only got 66k miles and I bought it at 40k and things a champ and it’s kinda fast lol I see them everywhere where I live now like they just don’t die
I've had my 2012 Impala for 7 years and never really had any of these problems other than the blend door actuator
How many miles was car when purchased it god body and how many miles was car after 7years ? And would call it a problem car ? Lemon car? Or reliable car or car that rear needed repairs
@@allanprimassmithbey2422 when I first purchased it, it had just under 19,000 miles on it. Right now it has just over 79,000 miles on it as I don't drive it all that much any more. The only real repairs I've had to do to it is replace the purge valve under the hood and vent valve by the gas tank, which are very common problems with these newer GM vehicles. I've also had to replace a blend door actuator in the glove box twice, which is also a common issue with this vehicle. Otherwise, in the 8 years that I've had it it's been a very reliable vehicle...
@@allanprimassmithbey2422 And I'll also add that the repairs I mentioned aren't expensive at all. You might even be able to do them yourself
A2009 impala el motorsito que controls el aire ase mucho Ruido como que esta un raton destroy
@@trinidadsanchez9048 Dam mice!
LOL. I was expecting the blend door and and mode select actuators to be on the list, as well as the 4T65E transmission (‘06-‘11). But it’s a great car, had mine 10 years no problem (‘10 w/ 120,000 miles)
Yes blend door should have been in there. Its the #1 comment that we have gotten. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
You are correct with the blend door actuator along with the other 2, which I have changed. I also had to replace all 4 door locks.
I’m still driving my first car ever! A 2009 Chevy Impala LT. I bought It in February of 2014. I’ve put 100,000+ miles on it and it had 60,000 off the lot! I LOVE THIS CAR! CHEVY FOREVER!
Great to hear that! Thanks for watching the video! If you need any parts for your Impala, check us out at 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
I've owned my 2011 Impala for about 3 years now and only things that have failed so far is the Oil cooler and a couple heater hoses. Heater hoses just went out to rust (I live in Canada rust spreads like the plague up here) and if you're wondering why the hell mine has an oil cooler it's because it has the 3.9L Police engine.
PRO TIPS BY THE WAY. IF YOU HAVE A 9C3 POLICE PACKAGE IMPALA AND THE OIL COOLER FAILS. DO NOT GET SCAMMED. There is an adapter that routes the oil through the cooler underneath the oil filter. You can just unscrew the oil filter, take the adapter off, and take the oil cooler out and convert it back to civilian spec by just screwing the oil filter back in. A local auto shop wanted 4750$ to replace that oil cooler because they no longer manufacture them. Took it to another shop, he found the adapter and fixed the issue for 50 bucks. Since the car is decommissioned you're not going to be idling it all day and wont need the oil cooler anyways.
Purge Valve is also P0442. A lot of times you will know it’s bad after fueling up the car. It will struggle to start. Great video
Just got p0442 after an oil change should i replace this first? 2008 lt 145k mi
@@timlynch8299 yes I would change the Purge Valve
Anyone know where the proportioning valve is located on a 06 impala 3.9 v6?
I guess I'm just a lucky guy that got good 1 it's a 07 I'm the second owner 3.9 I bought it at 100,000 miles had it for years and it has 220,000 miles now no problems changed the alternator once service regularly been all over the country in it lol glad I didn't have to deal with those issues lol
Bull shit
No bull service all your shit on time and you wont have issues not every car is going to be the same people have alot of problems with the 3.5 liter engine the LT basic with no extras I got the 3.9 liter engine with LTZ package with all the extra stuff its been a good car I'd say the only reason you're calling bullshit is you got a bad 1 lol
That is great Devin! Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
Mine is 2010 LT, 3.5L engine. Was 100K miles when I bought it, a bit over 200K now. I replaced water pump, motor mounts and a CV axle. Other than that it's been mostly maintenance. I have yet to change spark plugs on it though lol.. will get them done this month for sure.
My 2006 impala is still going at 275k miles
hot engine ac off warning is a common problem.
Sometimes it's the temp sensor, sometimes it's the thermostat.
if you take it to a shop watch they don't start the parts cannon.
Some shops just replace both and don't try to find the bad part
Yes. I get this as well.
that’s why i’m watching this video… just got this message in my dash
Have a 2011 impala with 135k, great car, hasn’t given me any issues other then the common ac blend door actuator and coolant temperature sensor which is minor. Been a super reliable vehicle.
Any transmissions problems?
@@JuanPulid0 transmission is starting occasionally to slip when shifting from reverse to drive then gas, only happened around 3-4 times
@@danb2 i got a transmission code on mine, but so far drives smooth. Im going to pay attention on what you said and see if I spot anyhing
@@JuanPulid0 I had a friend with a 08 around 150k and he lost 3rd and 4th year. The problems vary with the 4t65e
All these problems and more.. Love my 2011 LTZ, hate the problems!! No car payments, but as soon as it dies completely, I'm done with Chevys...
For the accelerator pedal I cleaned the connector with electronic cleaner connect it right back and erase the code with my obd2 scanner. No more reduced power! Saved me 100 dollars for a brand new one.
I have a 09 3.5 LT and I was looking for a vacation car and it is a very comfortable vehicle for traveling in. So far it has had all three ventilator actuators replaced by me, a battery, I bought it in 2012 it had only 60k it now has 145k and I must say I am impressed with the quality and reliability of the car, it’s a daily driver and I do all my maintenance on it, I don’t care what car you have if you don’t do at least the minimum maintenance sooner or later it will catch up with you. I did install a transmission cooler on it for peace of mind. Also rust has not been an issue. I am happy with it
The best years for these generation impala was the 2012 and 2013. The 6 speed auto with the 3.6 has proven to be quite reliable i own a 2012 with 176k i put about 1k miles a week. Nothing but routine maintenance
And 2014-16 Limited.
I agree
Bought a used 2008, there was so much wrong with it. Leaking coolant, engine mounts destroyed, tie rods, assembly hubs, etc. It’s the owners who were careless about it. But if you take care of it or bring it back to life, it’s an ok car. It’s just the anxiety of ‘what’s the next repair?’ Smh
Same with my 2011
Well that's why anytime you buy a used car. You do it major tune up on it. Change coolant hoses, have suspension check an replaced what is needed and get new tires as well alignment.
Literally just happened to me
Well when you buy a OLDER. tired car with a few thousand miles your going to have problems....Try buying a newer Impala with less than 90,000 miles and you WONT have all those problems......😅😅😅
I’m watching this video because I’m looking at one from the FB marketplace tomorrow (2012 3.6 engine) and may buy it. Just under 180k miles owner said it’s had a transmission fluid service done before and they want a little under $3k which in this day and age for a running and driving car I think it’s worth the gamble and learn about fixing it WHEN it breaks. Currently waiting on my Subaru to come back from the shop with a $2k repair bill which is still cheaper than buying a new car and I couldn’t do the repair myself.
What about the service stailbili track and wheel bearings
Yes good points that should have been added. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
I’m having this problem right now and have no idea what’s going on!
@@abstractjada5169 replace your wheel bearings and those lights will go off, I had the same issue
My stablitrak light is on right now which cause my abs and traction control light to come on and when I press on the gas I’m hearing a grinding noise can someone explain to me what the problem may be?
Yep, I had both wheel bearings go out in the front just 4 months apart from each other (~115K). Also had both Blend Door Actuators go out separately (~125K). And had to have the transmission rebuilt (114K) despite changing the transmission fluid faithfully. Those would be the "Top 3" on my list.
278,000 miles on mine so far. None of these issues yet. Had to change out the catalytic converter. And I’m on the third set of clicking air door actuators. Other than that, solid car. One of the better Chevys made in my opinion.
These are mainly issues with the 2006-2013 models... The 2014-2016 Version is a Fleet Production and had all upgraded parts comparable to the 10th generation that it overlapped.
2012-2016 fleet version.
Bought a 16 impala with 30k on it in 2017, just hit 120k and still runs like new. changed trans fluid at 90k, oil every 5k, Basic maintenance. Had it almost 8yrs. Best car I've ever owned! hands down! PS still running original brake pads, three set of tires tech was floored says It looks like they will need to be changed soon though. OEM brakes pads lasting 120k, have you ever!
So happy you guys finally made a video on my car 😂
+Rathalos Steffen Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I know right lol
@@1AAuto I have the same car 16 model
@@1AAuto I have a 16 model impala and my driver side climate control works on cold but when I move it up to hot it stays cold so is the panel bad
Saaaaame
2015 Impala Limited LT:
Wire strands break inside the insulation at the wheel sensor harness. Throws out a traction control and ABS warning. Dealer couldn't find it and convinced me to change the hub & sensor assembly for $400. Problem returned two days later and was told by dealer it was the transmission and would cost $5000 to replace. Said it was just a coincidence it happened at the same time.
Diagnosed the problem myself after watching youtoube and showed this to the service manager. He said their was no service bulletin, and they don't use info from "the internet" . Bought the OEM GM replacement harness on Amazon for $38 and fixed the problem. The fact it's in stock and cheap should be a hint this is a popular part.
Also, replaced steering rack, water pump, and radiator. Had the dealer changed the serpentine belt but they didn't change the pulley and tensioner which caused a later failure. Motor & transmission mounts and torque strut replaced. Shocks, Struts, and cracked strut mounts replaced. Alternator replaced. All three blend door actuators replaced. Connector at blower motor resistor is a problem. Replacement pigtail is junk and failed again - had to make my own.
Car has 167,000 hard miles on beat up roads, so I expect much of this wear. Just replaced the plugs which amazingly were working fine. Have been consistent on transmission and engine oil changes. Engine (V6) feels like it has a much torque as new. Trans shifts a little hard but no slipping noted.
Overall quite happy with this car and would buy again. Bought it used from Enterprise car rental in 2017 with 26K miles for $13K.
Y’all forgot to mention the transmission, and ac blend door actuators
Yes those would have been in the top 10. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
@@1AAuto y’all should sponsor me some wheel hubs for my impala
How about the transmission lines leaking? That’s a real common one.
@@melissarandazzo1515 haven’t heard of that being real common
Yeah, at 136K, none of the problems in this video have surfaced, but I've had to rebuild the transmission and replace 2 Blend Doors already!
My 2015 Impala limited has been very good to me. The only problem I’ve had is the ABS Wire Harness. Which a lot of mechanics get it confused with the wheel bearing or wheel speed sensor. The symptoms would be the Abs light, traction and service stabilitrak coming on at the same time. And you’ll hear a groaning/grinding noise while making sharp turns. Mostly left turns for me. It’s a real pain, gonna have to take my car to the shop later.
had the same. vacuum leak..vacuum leaks will drive a computer crazy and give wild codes
my PCV hose was broken, sucking lots of unfiltered air that the CPU does not know where it is coming from. The CPU richens the mixture to match the leak. The mixture is already too rich. The car stumbles. I was working at Ford KTP in Louisville and working on my Impala in parking lot in the rain one morning. worked 7 to 7 ...hahhahahahah
@@palmcoast26 Oh my gosh wow! I hope you were able to get that fixed!
Did your car act up driving?
@@Views-xx2wt It made some weird noise while turning. It was always on the drivers side, & it would hesitate while making the turn But other than that it drove normal
The 06-16 Impala came with 4 different motors during its run. 3.5, 3.6, 3.9 and 5.3. For the EVAP purge problem, you should make sure to inform the viewers which motor has this issue as the lesser informed will not be able to spot the difference between the 4 different motors as the 3.5 and 3.9 are a much different V6 than the 3.6 and likewise the 5.3.
You’re 100% sure I just bought a 2013 Chevy and Paula I’m not quite sure what motor it has her what style LTZ or what not or LT model but could you go in more detail of what the differences in how to be able to tell
@@grace.by.fire2021 2012-13 is the 3.6. Perhaps the best engine rated at 300 HP, but the trannys are crap.
I have been considering this gem Impala, I own a 32 year old Chevy truck and I've been having to commute to work on my wife's explorer because it's way better on gas but the 3.5 Impala looks like a very solid commuter car, all of the issues I've seen them have aren't terrible and I see them all of the time with over 300,000 miles still going.
thanks good info. i got a 2010 3.5 impala 58,234 miles. ( and 1993 suburban., )
Buying one for my girlfriend to get to work. Go Cowboys!
@@chasedyer5950 How bout them Cowboys? I'm hoping we win the rest of the season and take 1st in the division lol
@@austinreeves9112 Me too🙏🙏🙏
Thank you so much for this video, It is very informative. I love the way you explain what the problem could be and what needs to be done to fix it while showing pictures of what you are talking about, it helps everything make sense. I can honestly say I learned so much from this short video and with me being a woman it is great to have this knowledge when taking a car for repairs at the local auto repair shop. Again many, many thanks !!
I'm so glad this was helpful!
290,000 km on my 2010 3.5. Regular maintenance, great performance and gas mileage.
Loved my 9th gen impala, upgraded to the 10th gen but that cursed ac blend door had me ready to lose it. Such a nuisance to replace with big hands.
The rear defroster likes to burn out at the connection at the passenger side kick panel.
Mine never worked!!
I had the same problem on my 2012 Chevy impala I was almost going to have the rear window replaced because the glass place told me you cannot repair it well, I repaired it with the proper soldering techniques. I replace the contact to the windshield reconnected it and it’s been working ever sense.
Great list guys. I've had many of these issues, most expensive has been power steering leak, replaced pump and rack. It's better but still not 100% , still have to add fluid if steering pump whining, even tho dipstick shows full. Also replaced oil pressure sensor and pedal position sensor. Also getting "Service Stabilitrak" error message on dash, which I just ignore. Also the rear window defroster wire burns out at the fuse box located at the passenger side kick panel.
the Stabilitrac error is a recall item. I spent over 2 grand for a douche to tell me nothing wrong. then chevy dealer alerted me to a recall item...water in wires.
Having issues with my power steering making a whining sound as of yesterday so now I’m just having anxiety 🤦🏻♀️🤦🏻♀️😐 put fluid in and it’s still whining just not as loud
And front wheel bearings, and transmission solenoids!
The wheel bearings I’m very familiar with this one. I’ve already had to replace 3 of them on my 2014 Impala.
Transmission solenoids? I have one shifting a little off. Could that be it? Do I have to remove the transmission to do it?
@@martin1b No. You need to drop the sub-frame a bit at an angle to get the side cover off. And replace both. There are 2, which are exactly the same. I just changed these on my brother's car. Shifts 10x better.
Yep. Had to do the power steering pump and steering rack. Still love this car. HVAC actuators are shooting at me too 🤣
I have a 2013 with the 3.6, the only problem I had was with the flex fuel sensor. I did some research and found out it was covered under a recall and the Chevy dealer fixed it for free!
The ABS cable behind the front wheels causing Traction control, ABS and Brake light to come on at the same time
Yeah I’m having that issue right now but I’m picking up the piece for my 08 Impala LTZ tomorrow
Yeah shit just happened to me
Happened to me too. Got that wire harness replaced and good as new.
Mines is acting up for my 2013 chevy. What part do I need
Had this replaced a year ago and having the same problem again 🤦🏽♀️
So I bought a 2007 Chevy Impala lt. 3.5 L. I know I overpaid for it but whatever, they were offering it for 2200, I talked down to 1800, It had approximately 160,000 mi. Two and a half years later, it currently has a 198,661 mi. I have spent close to about $7,000-%8000 on this car. Let's start the fun, I have a replaced rack and pinion, or power steering rack, power steering pump, both high and low pressure power steer lines. Radiator, 2 sets of spark plugs, spark plug wires, sway bar end links (twice), sway bar bushings, front struts twice, I bought crappy Detroit Axle the first time never again, learned my lesson. Back struts, all four brake calipers, brake pads rotors ( twice), all four wheel bearings, inner and Outer tie rods ( pass side twice), both front lower control arms, both transmission lines. The clock spring in the steering wheel. Both O2 sensors, ignition coil pack, map sensor, crank sensor, the flex pipe from the manifold to the cat, back sway bar links or stabilizer end-links. 1 fuel injector, ( just cleaned other 5), 5 fuel injector o- rings ( 2 o-rings for each injector, intake plenum gasket, oil filer house, and gasket ( I think that's what its called), complete transmission fluid replacement with transmission pan filter, battery, ( was everstart max and was 5½ years old) the two front motor mounts that are pretty much right there as soon as you open the Hood, the side engin/transmission mount honestly think that's it, but could be wrong.
Thanks. I would add HVAC blend motors to that list. They only last about 50k miles before the plastic gears start failing, and they make a loud clicking noise in the cabin.
2014 Impala Limited. Our rack and pinion is leaking as you stated. Nothing leaking out the ground, but just behind the boot.
Thanks! I am literally going to test drive an 09 tomorrow!
Did you get the 09? I'm thinking of getting one.
dt buy it get a honda or toyota
way more reliable
I have a 2011 LT this is a good car when it wants to be! I've had this car for seven years. Its in the shop right now. Fixing the blower motor for the third time. This is the 2nd time this year. My horn hasn't worked in years. They've put 2 new horns in and it still doesn't work. I also got the actuators fixed so many times. The gas pedal as well. Its a good car when it wants to be a good car.
Yup I have a 2011 impala I changed the accelerator pedal easy fix and the oil pressure sensor as well.
About to change that oil sensor this week.
I replaced my emission parts and still had a code. Sprayed cleaner in the manifold where valve is and code went away never came back. Little dirt is a problem with vacuum.
What about the sway bar? Its a hollow bar and breaks at the ends.
Yes this was very common on the generation before this also. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
I have an 08 LTZ.
I replaced the hollow sway bar with a Dorman solid bar.
I just test drove it today. In an empty large parking lot, I pounded it through sharp lefts and right turns. It's response blew my mind! It handled like an Indy car!
Treat yourself and replace it. I'm so impressed I'm still grinning!
@@MrBikedrummer what is a sway bar and where is it located? I’m still learning thank you
@@isidraordaz2094
It's a heavy steel, like a solid pipe about 5feet long with a slight shape. It connects just behind the driver's front wheel and travels sideways over to behind the passenger's front wheel. Each end has a connection to the lower control arm.
These link pins are like a bolt with rubber bushings.
The purpose of the sway bar is to reduce the amount the car leans or lifts side to side when you take a corner.
There are great videos on RUclips detailing the replacement.
I hope that helps!
Peace.
@@MrBikedrummer I have an 08 LTZ too and I just ordered a new front suspension kit can’t wait to see how it’s ride once it’s finished
top 5 Transmission, evap, rear window(wire burns out--checked 6 at the junk yard and they had same issue), oil pressure sensor, actuator, these cars have 3 actuators, and they go out at different times. shop/ dealer cost about 100.00 each repair, do it yourself about 25 dollars each repair. I am no mechanic, but i owned a 07 SS for about 12 years and 285,000 miles. My brother has it now and still driving.
Is it expensive to fix ? I wanna impala but the transmission issue is scaring me
@@BoiBoiGTAwhich issue are you asking about
@@BoiBoiGTA which issue are you asking about
@@BoiBoiGTA if you are talking over all, no. The transmission is what it is. Depends on where you take it. I am assuming you will do most repairs yourself.
@@wilmoney4201 Is the transmission expensive to fix ? I heard the transmissions go out on these cars often, I could fix the minor repairs myself but not the transmission
Great video. Some other common issues that plaque those vehicles and chevys around those early years are blend door actuators failing and the Intermediate steering shaft.
Thanks for the info, Cody! If you need any parts for your vehicle, check us out at 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
Not sure you will see this but how do you know its the intermediate shaft I replaced rack and pump and I'm feeling some tension in the steering occasionally
2008 impala. Changed all the imission parts light still on. Took off vent line at manifold spayed carb cleaner and I turned off light. Never came on again. Quick clean all is needed.
Here's #6. The recirc motor in the HVAC box. The gears break when the baffles get stuck in freezing weather.
I watched this video like 10 times. I have a Chevy Impala 2012. Now I do delivery orders for a living. What can I do? To keep up with the essentials.. (I really enjoy driving.) Can we connect? I'm always out and about. I prefer to live life, not stuck in a building. I enjoy the consistency of delivering orders. 😅 ❤
This was helpful I have a 2013 impala as my first car so I will have to keep this video in mind
Thanks! Glad our video was helpful. If you ever need parts for your car, please visit: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
Looking for something a little more fuel efficient than my truck for my commute to work and this car is on my radar. They're the only reasonably priced cars in my area that I feel like might last a few years without a significant repair being needed.
I have a 2006 impala and have never had any of these issues...the odd thing is this video doesn't touch on one of the biggest problems with this gen of impala and that's a slipping transmission or erratic shifting transmission. That is by far the biggest issue I've had with the car since i bought it and is still going on today...it started to happen around 40,000 miles and is still going on. Another issue is the rear window defrost not working because of a wire burn through by the right kick panel (passenger side kick panel). Also clicking inside the dash due to an hvac actuator going bad...all of these issues are common on this gen impala...
Yes Rob you are correct. Some of these problems should have made it in the video. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
@@1AAuto thank you for responding and i will surely check you guys out for parts when needed.
Rob i actually just bought a 2015bltz and realized that immediately that it sometimes shifts hard. Is that normal?
@@brandonpitt4098 no it's not normal..
@@RailFanRob did you get your trans fluid changed? I'm considering doing That in about a week or so.
Sway bar bushing and oil filter housing gasket
I had an 07’ LTZ I had a huge leak, I was going through a quart of oil every time I drove lol it was a fun car but too many issues...sold it to copart
i have a 12 LS 6 seater and only issue ive had *knock on wood* was the alternator. bought it 2yrs ago with 42k now its at 80k I
Been waiting on this video for so long.. thanks for the video
+Ricky jones Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Me and my wife both have one. They ride and drive good. Good touring vehicles. 3.9 have plenty power.
Blend door actuators on the passenger side is going to tick like a bomb eventually. Ive changed them twice. I said forget it.
How long did they go out between each one? I've replaced mine only once and I haven't had problems. Knock on wood though
Yes we should have added this to the list.
@@marcopolo5541 i changed it and less than a year later it started again. I said screw it and a while later it just stopped. I dont know if it stuck now it working fine but it doesnt seem to be an issue.
Same thing happened to me im done with the car now rip
Ahahaha
dont forget about issues with the transmission , i have heard about that , and i have the same problem going on , impala are excellent riding , and are excellent gas mileage .
Damn Impalas! My purge solenoid failed after 130K miles! First part I had to change on the car. Just brakes and tires and oil changes.
That's nothing
I’ve had to replace that part twice on mine it has 138,000 on it.
My 2008 LTZ now has 175,000 miles on it. I am the original owner and took good care of it. Actuator doors are the most annoying to replace and go frequently. One door is a bear to replace and the door on the passenger side is a snap. Ill drive it until it doesn’t roll on its own. Im retired and on a fixed income. I fear my driving days are coming to an end and cannot imagine life without the freedom a car provides. Still, imtake life one day at a time.
Ive changed my front hubs twice in 6 years.
Yes that's common on most GM vehicles.
Aftermarket ones fail faster.. getting OEM is the way to go
My 2016 Impala Limited Police 9C3 rpm’s dance up and down on a cold start and it feels sluggish when in reverse, especially when wanting to give power quickly to back up. Transmission is exceptional.
Nice video, like how you are to the point, factual and you don’t ramble. Nice work background music too instead of deafening silence
+matt Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
What is the problem with windows fogging up with heat on high with the defroster on? Not able to clear windows in full defrost and heat in full high. Checked the water drain on the front bulkhead and is clear of any debris. What else should be checked?
Transmission was a big issue I’ve repaired many of these transmissions … the steering rack and pinion and power steering pump was another issue with these cars
Mine only drives in 1st/Second gear + reverse. Smh... And suggestions?
I had to replace my rack and pinion today 😫 2009 3.9L LTZ
Power seat motor. Window regulators, BLEND door actuators, Radiator cap. Knock sensor. This entire car seems to be made of plastic. Just look at it wrong and something will break. Excellent video!
+All American Dream Chaser Thanks for the feedback!
Had an 06 that leaked from manifold gasket and oil got all over the starter which caused it to die. Also developed transmission shuddering when starting from stop. It did last until I got rid of it at 207xxx but I only had it for 20k miles.
Yup some of older ones had these problems. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
Does a faulty evap purge solenoid also make it difficult to put fuel in the car? Thanks.
The impalas first problem is GM.
I went through 4/5 power steering pumps (Warranty Defects) and a rack...along with two window regulators (Driver side)...but no problems since :) 110k and running strong #3.5
+Dominique Newman Thanks for the feedback!
Why dose the pump keep outing
My dads 07 Impala has had 3 of these problems.
Thank you for sharing and for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
Good motors bad transmissions. Mine started going at about 70k miles. Still under warranty, it was an intermittent issue at that time. It would slip at a stop sign and slam into gear when it would catch. Found out later after the warranty was done that it was so common that GM allowed dealerships to cover them under a longer warranty period. By the time mine got bad enough to where they would be sure to find it I was well past of course. I changed the transmission and so far it's been good since.
U forgot the transmission an the throttle body postion sensor head gasket if they use dexcool its more then that i had one the 9th gen
True there is some other issues that didn't make our top 5. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
My dad just bought a ‘06 SS and yeah that blend door actuator seen better days. He loves it and I love my ‘03 LS with the 3.8 in it that I got from him when he got the SS
Cant forget about those abs harness
Yes! Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
I have a 07 impala ls 250k miles still strong and still love it. Given up on passenger accuater
Gotta change all 3 at once or it will never stop and it will run your battery dead
I’ve had my impala 2 years and got it with 150000km and changed the oil once and no other issues else it’s such a good car and has 215 hp which makes me cream
215 hp? Lol my 2014 Chevy Impala LT 3.6 V6 has over 300 HP stock. What kind of Impala do you have??
I bought mine used with 80000 miles on it almost a decade ago and it is still the best car I've ever owned, I guess "Made in Canada" means quality❤
Blend door actuators, coolant temp sensor, throttle body, accel pedal, oil leaks from valve covers and oil pan, and 1st gear jerk in transmission. Biggest issue is really the owners beating the piss out of them
I love how on my 2015 Impala Limited LT (same car, just called the limited 14-16 because the 10th gen was out) I've only had the EVAP Purge and did it myself. Water pump, rack, pedal, pre-tensioners? Factory. Even the plugs, coils, timing, and I'd say about 85% or more is factory. I only changed the idler, tensioner, and belt cause I thought they were the cause of a squeal, they weren't but I simply kept the old parts as backup. And that's at 202k miles, about 300-350 miles a week. Only other issues have been 7 hubs (not the hubs actually, just the TCS wiring rubbing out, actually spoke with GM, they revised it with wire loom now over the harness), 3 radiators (shit end tank design), and the blend door actuator. 1 radiator and 2 hubs were out of warranty, the rest, all under warranty from factory plus 2 extensions on the warranty. Save an absolute mountain of cash. If this one dies, my plans are to get another one as low of mileage I can find, but this time in Crystal Tricoat Red with black interior.
Thanks for the video! I just bought an 06 LTZ
Thanks for watching, High Brass! If you need any auto parts, consider buying them at 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
I bought a 2012 lt and had two actuators go bad and a wheel hub problem but I got good deals so it wasn't bad compared to what it could be.
Chevy Impala Problem
(Owner of 3.9L V6 9C1 09 Impala)
Door Lock Actuators - DIY eBay universal lock actuator
Rear Defrost Non Functional- Bypass With new wire in passenger side foot fuse box . Usally burnt out. Cut and wire together.
Ac actuator that causes loud knock in glove box just replace the motor
Sway bars are usally broke as well on these cars
Tpms is usally garbage so I suggest replacing them
Transmission eventually may go out so prep with some sort of repair coverage
Pedal sensor eventually so replace
Overheating usually it’s the water pump/thermostat and change pulleys if can
AC Compressor may also need replacing for no cold air even after you tried a recharge
Car runs well on 93 Octane
Better to run full synthetic oil and run a coolant flush regularly.
Wow Great list! Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
All kinds of problems with 09 Impala's. Door actuators, tire pressure sensors. Door lock solenoids. The car is a real pain in the ass.
The main problems that I've experienced that weren't mentioned are:
- Coolant Temp Sensor (Warning - "Engine Hot, Turn Off A/C")
- Oil Pressure Sensor (Warning - "Oil Pressure Low, Turn Off Engine")
- Air Vent Actuators (Both - Clicking Sound)
- Throttle Body Position Sensor (RPM fluctuation while accelerating)
Same problems I’m having
The trans is a big problem. A ZZR Performance shift kit actually fixes the issue. 250k and thats all I've had to do to it.
My car is smoking underneath the whole catalytic converter is covered in oil. Replaced the oil filter gasket , oil pan gasket , valve cover gaskets. And it’s still smoking please help my car always smells like burnt and when the car is on I see smoke coming from under the car
HEY!! I HAVE A 07 CHECK OUT THE CRANK SHAFT SEAL ITS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE AT THE BOTTOM it leaks oil down at the bottom of the vehicle! There are plenty of RUclips videos on it
I would recommend degreasing the engine and exhaust really good. look for more leaks, if it is one of the newer ones timing covers leak oil. Make sure its engine oil and not something else. Thank you for checking out the video. If you need auto parts go to: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-Now
another problem is if you have a performance oil based air filter like a K&N, is to watch out for the oil to contact the map sensor. I did and had about 5 trouble codes. I clean my map every three months. If you have never cleaned one, it is a great performance boost
Might as well use a regular air filter than keep going through that.
@@retiredsnowbunnyhunterx5106 regular filter is made from paper, try breathing thru paper or cotton??
@@palmcoast26 I know that I'm just saying. Some cars don't respond well to k n filters. Most cars that I have had with installed I normally clean it good then let it air dry for day from the water. Then light spray the oil an let dry another day. Never had any problems with it messing up the map sensor.
@@retiredsnowbunnyhunterx5106 when they are NEW........even if you let it sit for days, it has already been thru months on shelve
And the catalytic converter goes out easily too. I own an 07, love my car. Has 180k right now
Thanks for watching!
@@1AAuto yeah! I love watching your videos, I've watched a few and have been able to do minor things to my car. I'm not really a good fixer upper but I have learned a lot. I do love Impalas, at least mine anyway!
Clyde I have an 08 lt that's pushing 200k miles noticing an issue with clutch slip which apparently is a common issue too. Engine revs for a sec when you give it gas then it'll jerk forward hard.
@@benstuff8758 is that just low transmission fluid? My car does that if I'm thinking the same thing. Like you are at a dead stop give it some gas and it'll be sluggish then BAM off it goes? Lol that's how it seems to me. And sometimes it'll make a hard shift when I'm driving on this 1 gear it seems. Just once and awhile. Just noticed that happening.
@@clydeharrell1216 unfortunately its not. Its just badly designed transmissions. I've tried flushing my transmission fluid and replacing the filter which temporarily eased up the issue only for it to come back about a month later.
The first one Evap purge valve. Another symptom that occurs is when refueling your car with gas the car has a hard time starting. Thought it was the fuel pump but it was just the Evap purge valve. I drive a 2012 Chevy impala LT.
I have a 2012 impala and the evaporator sensor went bad and I replaced it myself. Its easy to do. It doesn't affect anything but the car won't pass the emissions test without it working right.