One thing that is important with the nut string lock blocks is the direction of the peak ridge of the block. It has to have that peak running parallel to the strings. This allows the block to rock to equalize the pressure between each set of two strings. If the peak is perpendicular to the strings, the block can only pivot towards the headstock or away from the headstock. This will not allow the blocks to pivot between the two strings. Jake, you have them in the correct position. I want to insure everyone understands this direction is important. This is why the string block lock has the shape that it does.
man you are a LIFESAVER. i got a preowned Sawtooth Vudu that has these bridges installed when the guitars are built, took it somewhere for a setup and the tech screwed mine all up. he lowered the bridge too far and that long piece attached to the spring was dragging the body. was able to remedy it with the action screw adjustments. thank you!!!
I own neither the FRX nor a Les Paul, but I watched this entire video and thoroughly enjoyed it. Even with the volume off because my wife is watching Harry Potter for her birthday. 😂
I think you love us more then u hare youreself...😅 Good Job... I'm absolutly no advanced technic or Player, but i winged it to install the FRX, but in down only mode for now... With your'e instruction's of course... This video is by far the most helpfull outhere... I will go on floating in a few day's...🤘🏻
Thabks bro . Great video . I own 2 of the frx trems I originally put mine on my epi explorer . And after I figured it out I got another for my gibson les paul and I really love them. Now I can play van halen on my les paul lol my favorite guitar
I own an FRX and it did not worked as I intended until I saw a video of another guy who installs it in a similar way as you did. And I agree with you, the rounded screw is not that helpful, in my case only added issues with tunning
Super late, but does it matter if the middle like spring transfer pole thing does not sit smack in the middle of the term spring cavity? Mine always kind of slants to the bottom.
I’ve been tossing around the idea of installing one of these on my Gibson V2. Thing is, it’s a classic original that I bought brand new in 1980 and I’ve owned it for 44 years. Although I would certainly never part with it, I don’t want to do anything that would affect the value of it. So, a few questions if I may. - Would one of those Nut Busters work? It’s a locking nut that mounts on the strings behind the existing nut. It doesn’t actually fasten to the head stock. - In the video when you started, there were four threaded fixtures already there. Were those original? I guess what I’m asking is, my V2 has the two bridge posts and then a solid boomerang shaped tail piece that’s screwed right onto the main body. Can the FRX be installed using only the original bridge post holes without any new holes required? - I’m wondering if the sustain of the guitar is affected by the fact that the FRX doesn’t have the sustain block that a normal FR has. The strings on my V2 are anchored on the solid tail piece that is attached directly to the body so it has amazing sustain like a Les Paul. I would hate to lose that.
To answer your questions: The included nut-lock replaces the truss rod cover and is a behind-the-nut lock. If you don’t want to use it, you can use another similar solution. Those threaded fixtures were already there. This system uses the existing holes in the guitar(besides the truss rod cover/nut lock) The sustain is affected, but not by a wide margin. Keep in mind this is on my (non-weight-relieved) Epiphone, but I imagine it would be the same on your Gibson IF YOU DO THIS, MAKE SURE TO PUT SOMETHING UNDER THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS, and make sure the bottom of the trem does not contact the body of your guitar!!! All that being said, in your specific scenario, I DO NOT recommend doing this. Go get a FR-equipped guitar and call it a day, or get an entirely different guitar to add the FRX to. Don’t mess with a good thing. I have a feeling you’d regret it if you did it to your Gibson, and there are too many things that could go haywire during installation/usage if it isn’t done perfectly.
These instructions are universal and should definitely work for an SG! Be careful not to scratch the finish with the tension spring assembly on the bottom!!!
that thumbwheel thingy should be a standard feature for floyds instead of us trying to macgyver picks/coins to somehow prevent the bridge from going up/down. I believe Herman Li has one custom made for one of his guiitars so he can precisely set how many semitones he can pull up
Let me say some things about tremolos. A floating tremolo allows two-directional movement for up or down pitch changes. A floating tremolo cannot successfully return to the same spot, on its own, every time, because there is too much variation with string pressure fighting spring pressure. It's a classic tug-of-war. One side usually wins. Adding a mechanical device to stop the tremolo in one spot can remedy this. Some stops only work in one direction, which only allows dive bombs. If that is your wish, then, technically, you don't need that stop. Tighten the springs just enough to hold the tremolo against the body of the guitar, but still enough to stay there during string bending. This will give you an easy operating tremolo. From here you can tighten the springs more for a heavier tremolo, if desired. There are stops out there that provide two-directional movement, yet still bring the tremolo back to a predetermined spot. If you want a floating tremolo, here are some tips. 1) Set up the tremolo float amount by how much of an upward pitch it will change. If you want a semi tone, a whole tone, or 2 whole tones, as your total pitch up, then make the space between the tremolo and the body of the guitar only enough so that when you pull up for pitch up, the tremolo hits the body as it reaches the amount of pitch up you prefer. This prevents pulling the strings tighter than needed, lessening possible string breakage and you know if you pull up on that tremolo all the way, it will always be the same amount of pitch change. 2) Learn to stretch new strings without breaking the thinner strings. You'd like to get them stretched until they stay in tune after stretching. There is a fine line between stretched enough for this step and trying too hard to stretch them some more. There is a distinct PING, usually followed by a cuss word. You will find that happy medium. I broke about 5 high E strings before I found it. This stretching is very important for the fine tuning of the tremolo springs to be effective. Once you have it set up, strings stretched, and total pitch up limit established, play it for a while, then re-tune. When you reach a point that you can play for a while, and it is still in tune afterwards. Put it away until the next day. Check the tuning, without retuning. You are checking to see if the tuning went sharp or flat. Don't be so concerned with 1 or 2 strings out of tune with each other, this is common. Now, if the majority of the strings went flat, then tighten the tremolo springs until those same majority come back into tune. If they went sharp, then loosen the springs until they come into tune. This is how you fine tune the springs. Now you can retune, play for a while, stretch the strings a little, retune and leave it over night. Recheck the overall tuning and see if it went sharp or flat over night. Again, bring it into tune with the spring adjustment. I follow this cycle for about a week. This is the method that works well for me. I use this method before I install a tremolo stop device. So, even if you don't use a stop device, this method will provide the optimum balance you can achieve without one. This method works with any tremolo. Yes, my method still works with this unit, the only difference is that the spring adjustment is done at the front of the guitar. I hope this helps someone. Jake, I am sorry for kind of hijacking this space, but I feel you are more about providing some useful information to your followers, in case they might not have a firm grasp of what tremolo set ups entails. By the way, Jake, you really came through for them on the way you figured out the unexplained issues with this FRX, worked your way through them, and provided everyone with a video on how to avoid and remedy the issues encountered with this unit.
It still goes out of tune. Overall, bad product. Can't stay in tune, action too high, unplayable instrument. Still thank you for your effort. I respect your dedication and you helped a lot of people by making a real demonstration.
I just did the install and had a problem right away. This plate with screws was rubbing against the main mount. So I removed the plate with screws and problem solved. I'm still having issues with the FRX returning to 0 pitch. Also tuning stability is not consistent. I'll try and give it a little more time to break in. And if it doesn't. AMAZON RETURN😡 ruclips.net/video/h41dGg5nVIw/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Much, much better and easier to follow.
One thing that is important with the nut string lock blocks is the direction of the peak ridge of the block. It has to have that peak running parallel to the strings. This allows the block to rock to equalize the pressure between each set of two strings. If the peak is perpendicular to the strings, the block can only pivot towards the headstock or away from the headstock. This will not allow the blocks to pivot between the two strings. Jake, you have them in the correct position. I want to insure everyone understands this direction is important. This is why the string block lock has the shape that it does.
Yep, this was a bit confusing for a beginner...
man you are a LIFESAVER. i got a preowned Sawtooth Vudu that has these bridges installed when the guitars are built, took it somewhere for a setup and the tech screwed mine all up. he lowered the bridge too far and that long piece attached to the spring was dragging the body. was able to remedy it with the action screw adjustments. thank you!!!
I own neither the FRX nor a Les Paul, but I watched this entire video and thoroughly enjoyed it. Even with the volume off because my wife is watching Harry Potter for her birthday. 😂
Happy Birthday to your wife! 😂
i don't have eyes, ears, fingers or any sensory organs and i can't play guitar and i enjoyed this video very much
@@coolbugfacts1234 that’s fantastic!
I just installed a black FRX on my Marty Friedman Jackson. It works great thanks to your very helpful video
Thank you so much!!
I think you love us more then u hare youreself...😅
Good Job...
I'm absolutly no advanced technic or Player, but i winged it to install the FRX, but in down only mode for now... With your'e instruction's of course...
This video is by far the most helpfull outhere... I will go on floating in a few day's...🤘🏻
This is the ultimate, no bs guide
Thabks bro . Great video . I own 2 of the frx trems I originally put mine on my epi explorer . And after I figured it out I got another for my gibson les paul and I really love them. Now I can play van halen on my les paul lol my favorite guitar
Great video very incisive and will definitely be following your instructions when I do my own install very soon so thank you for that. 🎸
I own an FRX and it did not worked as I intended until I saw a video of another guy who installs it in a similar way as you did. And I agree with you, the rounded screw is not that helpful, in my case only added issues with tunning
Super late, but does it matter if the middle like spring transfer pole thing does not sit smack in the middle of the term spring cavity? Mine always kind of slants to the bottom.
Can that plastic black screw be taken out if you’re only using it to go down in pitch or is it only necessary for floating?
U had shims in the package...?
I have the black one no shims... I bought additional onesbut the look very different, i have the wrong ones i think...
I’ve been tossing around the idea of installing one of these on my Gibson V2. Thing is, it’s a classic original that I bought brand new in 1980 and I’ve owned it for 44 years. Although I would certainly never part with it, I don’t want to do anything that would affect the value of it. So, a few questions if I may.
- Would one of those Nut Busters work? It’s a locking nut that mounts on the strings behind the existing nut. It doesn’t actually fasten to the head stock.
- In the video when you started, there were four threaded fixtures already there. Were those original? I guess what I’m asking is, my V2 has the two bridge posts and then a solid boomerang shaped tail piece that’s screwed right onto the main body. Can the FRX be installed using only the original bridge post holes without any new holes required?
- I’m wondering if the sustain of the guitar is affected by the fact that the FRX doesn’t have the sustain block that a normal FR has. The strings on my V2 are anchored on the solid tail piece that is attached directly to the body so it has amazing sustain like a Les Paul. I would hate to lose that.
To answer your questions:
The included nut-lock replaces the truss rod cover and is a behind-the-nut lock. If you don’t want to use it, you can use another similar solution.
Those threaded fixtures were already there. This system uses the existing holes in the guitar(besides the truss rod cover/nut lock)
The sustain is affected, but not by a wide margin. Keep in mind this is on my (non-weight-relieved) Epiphone, but I imagine it would be the same on your Gibson
IF YOU DO THIS, MAKE SURE TO PUT SOMETHING UNDER THE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREWS, and make sure the bottom of the trem does not contact the body of your guitar!!!
All that being said, in your specific scenario, I DO NOT recommend doing this. Go get a FR-equipped guitar and call it a day, or get an entirely different guitar to add the FRX to. Don’t mess with a good thing. I have a feeling you’d regret it if you did it to your Gibson, and there are too many things that could go haywire during installation/usage if it isn’t done perfectly.
A frx da na epiphane standa ?
Would this work for an sg? Or should I stick to the regular instructions for that
These instructions are universal and should definitely work for an SG! Be careful not to scratch the finish with the tension spring assembly on the bottom!!!
how aboot intonation? i removed the "intonation" screws like on a normal floyd rose but those dont actually hold anything in place?
that thumbwheel thingy should be a standard feature for floyds instead of us trying to macgyver picks/coins to somehow prevent the bridge from going up/down. I believe Herman Li has one custom made for one of his guiitars so he can precisely set how many semitones he can pull up
Great video, thanks!
Cool video bro, thanks for posting.
The nut lock is just like what kahler uses
Thanks Jake!
thaanks man!
Well done
Cheers matey.
ty bro!
Let me say some things about tremolos. A floating tremolo allows two-directional movement for up or down pitch changes. A floating tremolo cannot successfully return to the same spot, on its own, every time, because there is too much variation with string pressure fighting spring pressure. It's a classic tug-of-war. One side usually wins. Adding a mechanical device to stop the tremolo in one spot can remedy this. Some stops only work in one direction, which only allows dive bombs. If that is your wish, then, technically, you don't need that stop. Tighten the springs just enough to hold the tremolo against the body of the guitar, but still enough to stay there during string bending. This will give you an easy operating tremolo. From here you can tighten the springs more for a heavier tremolo, if desired. There are stops out there that provide two-directional movement, yet still bring the tremolo back to a predetermined spot. If you want a floating tremolo, here are some tips. 1) Set up the tremolo float amount by how much of an upward pitch it will change. If you want a semi tone, a whole tone, or 2 whole tones, as your total pitch up, then make the space between the tremolo and the body of the guitar only enough so that when you pull up for pitch up, the tremolo hits the body as it reaches the amount of pitch up you prefer. This prevents pulling the strings tighter than needed, lessening possible string breakage and you know if you pull up on that tremolo all the way, it will always be the same amount of pitch change. 2) Learn to stretch new strings without breaking the thinner strings. You'd like to get them stretched until they stay in tune after stretching. There is a fine line between stretched enough for this step and trying too hard to stretch them some more. There is a distinct PING, usually followed by a cuss word. You will find that happy medium. I broke about 5 high E strings before I found it. This stretching is very important for the fine tuning of the tremolo springs to be effective. Once you have it set up, strings stretched, and total pitch up limit established, play it for a while, then re-tune. When you reach a point that you can play for a while, and it is still in tune afterwards. Put it away until the next day. Check the tuning, without retuning. You are checking to see if the tuning went sharp or flat. Don't be so concerned with 1 or 2 strings out of tune with each other, this is common. Now, if the majority of the strings went flat, then tighten the tremolo springs until those same majority come back into tune. If they went sharp, then loosen the springs until they come into tune. This is how you fine tune the springs. Now you can retune, play for a while, stretch the strings a little, retune and leave it over night. Recheck the overall tuning and see if it went sharp or flat over night. Again, bring it into tune with the spring adjustment. I follow this cycle for about a week. This is the method that works well for me. I use this method before I install a tremolo stop device. So, even if you don't use a stop device, this method will provide the optimum balance you can achieve without one. This method works with any tremolo. Yes, my method still works with this unit, the only difference is that the spring adjustment is done at the front of the guitar. I hope this helps someone. Jake, I am sorry for kind of hijacking this space, but I feel you are more about providing some useful information to your followers, in case they might not have a firm grasp of what tremolo set ups entails. By the way, Jake, you really came through for them on the way you figured out the unexplained issues with this FRX, worked your way through them, and provided everyone with a video on how to avoid and remedy the issues encountered with this unit.
It still goes out of tune. Overall, bad product. Can't stay in tune, action too high, unplayable instrument. Still thank you for your effort. I respect your dedication and you helped a lot of people by making a real demonstration.
So would this be an example of "awesome concept, poor execution" in your opinion?
@@Justmemyguy Sadly, yes.
Nice, but they don't make it left handed.
I just did the install and had a problem right away. This plate with screws was rubbing against the main mount.
So I removed the plate with screws and problem solved.
I'm still having issues with the FRX returning to 0 pitch. Also tuning stability is not consistent.
I'll try and give it a little more time to break in.
And if it doesn't.
AMAZON RETURN😡
ruclips.net/video/h41dGg5nVIw/видео.htmlfeature=shared
okay, but that is largest hunk of metal, its ugly. Maybe future design refinement can calm this.
I know exactly where and how to install the FRX 🗑🗑🗑. There are good single cuts with Floyds on the market.