Hola, excelente video, justo necesitaba una comparación de estos dos lentes, tengo el 180mm y un 120mm S-Planar C y me preguntaba si seria necesario quedarme con el 120 o 180 e ir por un 150, saludos desde Chile!
Hey Nico! I am considering the 120 CF Makro-Plannar and 150 CF for a portrait & beauty lens, what is your advice when it comes to that? I am shooting on a 500 EL/M body. Btw loved your extension tubes video!!
Hi! For my taste, the 120 is a bit too short for close-up / beauty. 150 looks better to me. You’d think the difference isn’t very big based on focal length but side by side comparisons show the 150 to be more flattering. I am planning to update this video to include the 120 in the comparison, but I have a lot of personal work to develop and scan first, so it won’t happen very soon.
@@nicolaslevy2657 Thanks a ton Nico. Is there a major difference that you have noticed between C T* and CF optics for the 150 or for any of the lenses in that matter?
I have four Hasselblad lenses, the 50C, 80CF, 150CF and the (new to me) 250CF. I use the 80 90% of the time but they are all fantastic lenses. However, yesterday I was shooting the autumn leaves and I used the 150 exclusively, it's a great lens, I should use it more. Thanks for the video!
You have the "Ansel Adams" set of lenses!! In one of his books he describes AND recommends buying a Hasselblad as a roll film camera. He goes into further detail about lens choices, and the 50, 80, 150, & 250 were his recommendations.
In the Hasselblad compendium documented NASA Hasselblad lenses are: 38 Biogon (SWC), non reflex 50 f:0.7 Planar (only 10 built), special NASA lens, non reflex 60 Biogon special NASA only lens for moon surface, non reflex 80 Planar 100 Planar 105 UV Sonnar 250m Sonnar 250mm SA Sonnar, engineered on NASA request 500 Tele Tessar The 180 Sonnar was specially engineered for NASA but never used by them. some 150 Sonnar and 50 Distagon were prepared in NASA versions but never used by them
TIL! Wow I had no idea. Obviously I haven’t been on the moon myself to check what kind of lens the Apollo missions left behind. I was repeating stuff I’ve read online… thank you for setting the record straight! 🙏🏻
Hi Dylan. I actually just bought that lens so it’s a bit too early to have an opinion. In general, I know from using the 120mm that anything wider than the 150mm is gonna have you very close to the sitter for closeup portraits. I imagine with a 100mm you’d get quite a bit of a « big nose-tiny ears » effect going on if you’re framing a head an shoulders portrait. On the other hand 100mm is ideal for environmental portrait, when you step back a little and include some detail around the sitter.
seems like 180mm is a hair more contrasty! in the wooden figurine and makina pictures i've recognized it (i think). In the Makina pictures, the 150 was on the left and 180 on the right, correct?
Hi, i wanted to use Sonnar 150mm and i have a question. How can I use it on Nikon Z5? I saw that you have it on your Z7. is there any adapter from Hasselblad to Nikon Z mount?
I too have the Z5 and some 500 series CT* portrait lenses. I recently saw an adapter or two by third party companies that will mount Hasselblad glass to either F or Z mount but you lose access to the leaf shutter and have to use the manual settings/mech. shutter of the Nikon as well having to lock your aperture down in the lens manually. Google "Hasselblad V lenses to Nikon". There might even be a Speed Booster adapter that will concentrate "most" of the lens image circle on to the FX sensor at around $500+ ... otherwise the straight non-element adapters will only get you the sweet spot or [heavily] cropped center of the Hassy lens which almost defeats the purpose all together.
Don't blame you, this is a TOTALLY manual system, the only way ( as of 2020) to get focus assist is to use either the CFV 50 C or the CFV ii 50 C digital backs, which are compatible with the v series of film cameras; thus offering live view, and focus peeking. as Polaroid are sadly gone the way of the Dodo, this is your only way of exposure previewing the image!!
Hi. I like the bigger negs and the lenses I had on the RZ were great. But in the end I prefer the all mechanical feel of the Hasselblad, and it is so much smaller. Not just the cameras but every accessory : the prism finders, the film backs… everything on the Mamiya is 30% bigger. 😅
ALSO for blur, use the tripod,cable release AND the M-up mode, don't try using a telephoto lens, esp. in MF hand held, just asking for 'Murphy's law' to reek vengeance on you!!, WHY do you think in Ansel Adams' time they had rods on the chairs the models sat on- to keep the object in focus, and still!!
The problem I describe in the video is that my 150mm was still set on « Bulb » from shooting some architecture the night before. So while the flash mostly froze a sharp image of the subject, the ambient light allowed a blurrier image to be recorded on the negative too. Silly mistake but one of the images actually turned out kind of cute. Happy accident I guess. 😄
Great portraits. The budgie and shirt combo had me tripping though!
Hola, excelente video, justo necesitaba una comparación de estos dos lentes, tengo el 180mm y un 120mm S-Planar C y me preguntaba si seria necesario quedarme con el 120 o 180 e ir por un 150, saludos desde Chile!
Another great video Nicolas!
Hey Nico! I am considering the 120 CF Makro-Plannar and 150 CF for a portrait & beauty lens, what is your advice when it comes to that? I am shooting on a 500 EL/M body.
Btw loved your extension tubes video!!
Hi! For my taste, the 120 is a bit too short for close-up / beauty. 150 looks better to me. You’d think the difference isn’t very big based on focal length but side by side comparisons show the 150 to be more flattering. I am planning to update this video to include the 120 in the comparison, but I have a lot of personal work to develop and scan first, so it won’t happen very soon.
@@nicolaslevy2657 Thanks a ton Nico. Is there a major difference that you have noticed between C T* and CF optics for the 150 or for any of the lenses in that matter?
@@ShahzadBPhotography
I would suggest CF over C. The shutters are more modern, and the focusing ring on the older lenses can be quite hard to turn.
The mainstay of many pro photographers doing weddings and portraits, for decades, was the 80mm Planar and the 150mm Sonnar.
wow, those are some absolutely beautiful portraits you took. Congrats! I only have the 150mm. Really want to try the 250
You better buy the 50 mmm, the 80 mm and a short extension tube,
Great video. I purchased the 150mm, but I'm also thinking about the 180mm so this video was perfect timing for me.
Get yourself a wide angle lens, a standard lens plus a extensio tube.
Nicely done! I love my 150
I have four Hasselblad lenses, the 50C, 80CF, 150CF and the (new to me) 250CF. I use the 80 90% of the time but they are all fantastic lenses. However, yesterday I was shooting the autumn leaves and I used the 150 exclusively, it's a great lens, I should use it more. Thanks for the video!
You have the "Ansel Adams" set of lenses!! In one of his books he describes AND recommends buying a Hasselblad as a roll film camera. He goes into further detail about lens choices, and the 50, 80, 150, & 250 were his recommendations.
Thanks for this video man!
In the Hasselblad compendium documented NASA Hasselblad lenses are:
38 Biogon (SWC), non reflex
50 f:0.7 Planar (only 10 built), special NASA lens, non reflex
60 Biogon special NASA only lens for moon surface, non reflex
80 Planar
100 Planar
105 UV Sonnar
250m Sonnar
250mm SA Sonnar, engineered on NASA request
500 Tele Tessar
The 180 Sonnar was specially engineered for NASA but never used by them.
some 150 Sonnar and 50 Distagon were prepared in NASA versions but never used by them
TIL! Wow I had no idea. Obviously I haven’t been on the moon myself to check what kind of lens the Apollo missions left behind. I was repeating stuff I’ve read online… thank you for setting the record straight! 🙏🏻
How do you feel about the Hasselblad 100mm 3.4 lens for portraits?
Hi Dylan. I actually just bought that lens so it’s a bit too early to have an opinion. In general, I know from using the 120mm that anything wider than the 150mm is gonna have you very close to the sitter for closeup portraits.
I imagine with a 100mm you’d get quite a bit of a « big nose-tiny ears » effect going on if you’re framing a head an shoulders portrait.
On the other hand 100mm is ideal for environmental portrait, when you step back a little and include some detail around the sitter.
@@nicolaslevy2657 Thanks Nicholas.
Great review.
"because I'm a fool" hahaha all of us!
Your review remarks are absolutely on the spot! (got them both, too)
What is wrong on the 80 mm and 50 mm ?
@@jacovanlith5082 Nothing. Just 100mm too short ;)
Thank you for a nice comparison
i know im a little late but great video!
good work... and practical advice... thanks nico !
1x Tele
1x Standard
1x Wide
1x Extension tube
seems like 180mm is a hair more contrasty! in the wooden figurine and makina pictures i've recognized it (i think). In the Makina pictures, the 150 was on the left and 180 on the right, correct?
You can not judge the quality just by one picrure.
@@jacovanlith5082 well, you can. You look at the picture and see.
The bird rules
Hi, i wanted to use Sonnar 150mm and i have a question. How can I use it on Nikon Z5? I saw that you have it on your Z7. is there any adapter from Hasselblad to Nikon Z mount?
I too have the Z5 and some 500 series CT* portrait lenses. I recently saw an adapter or two by third party companies that will mount Hasselblad glass to either F or Z mount but you lose access to the leaf shutter and have to use the manual settings/mech. shutter of the Nikon as well having to lock your aperture down in the lens manually.
Google "Hasselblad V lenses to Nikon".
There might even be a Speed Booster adapter that will concentrate "most" of the lens image circle on to the FX sensor at around $500+ ... otherwise the straight non-element adapters will only get you the sweet spot or [heavily] cropped center of the Hassy lens which almost defeats the purpose all together.
Do not spill Zeiss 6 x 6 quality on 24 x 36 mm
Don't blame you, this is a TOTALLY manual system, the only way ( as of 2020) to get focus assist is to use either the CFV 50 C or the CFV ii 50 C digital backs, which are compatible with the v series of film cameras; thus offering live view, and focus peeking. as Polaroid are sadly gone the way of the Dodo, this is your only way of exposure previewing the image!!
why don’t you prefer the rz67 for portraits?
Hi. I like the bigger negs and the lenses I had on the RZ were great. But in the end I prefer the all mechanical feel of the Hasselblad, and it is so much smaller. Not just the cameras but every accessory : the prism finders, the film backs… everything on the Mamiya is 30% bigger. 😅
150mm Vrs 180mm = 30mm difference.
ALSO for blur, use the tripod,cable release AND the M-up mode, don't try using a telephoto lens, esp. in MF hand held, just asking for 'Murphy's law' to reek vengeance on you!!, WHY do you think in Ansel Adams' time they had rods on the chairs the models sat on- to keep the object in focus, and still!!
The problem I describe in the video is that my 150mm was still set on « Bulb » from shooting some architecture the night before. So while the flash mostly froze a sharp image of the subject, the ambient light allowed a blurrier image to be recorded on the negative too. Silly mistake but one of the images actually turned out kind of cute. Happy accident I guess. 😄