Thanks for your Holy Trinity video. I have never owned or used a Hasselblad, but I have used the wide-angle/normal/telephoto lens combination for decades. I used 55/80/180mm lenses on my Mamiya 6x6cm medium format TLRs. I used 50/80/180mm lenses on my Mamiya 6x7cm medium format RB67 SLRs. I used 24/50/105mm lenses on my Nikon 35mm SLRs. I used 28/50/135mm lenses on my Pentax Spotmatic 35mm SLRs. I used 21/45/90mm lenses on my Contax G1 35mm rangefinders. I used 35/50/100mm lenses on my Argus C3 35mm rangefinders. I used 21/35/90mm lenses on my Leica M6 and M10 rangefinders. I used 14/20/45mm lenses on my Olympus micro 4/3 digital mirrorless. I used 16/23/56mm lenses on my Fuji APS-C digital mirrorless. I used 14-24/28-70/80-200mm zoom lenses on my Nikon 35mm SLRs.
absolutely LOVE the ferry shots, a classic film look, esp. the 80 &150 pictures, good job; this also illustrates a point you didn't make about these lenses, they ARE prone to motion blur, esp. the telephotos, so, as you did, M-up, Tripod, and a cable, or radio trigger, to stop any motion blur.
I appreciate your good explanation. For me, your explanation of Haselblad lenses was easy and informative, and I was able to understand the differences between them. Actually, I'm quite a beginner at Haselblad. It's because I've been using only ordinary digital cameras. But my father was old, so I inherited the Haselblad that he used for a long time. I'm falling in love with Haselblad these days, and I'm looking forward to it even more. I got 503CX, CW and 40, 80, 180 lenses, and I also bought a digital back. When I get used to it, I try to film a lot. Thank you. I wish you good health and peace! (I live in South Korea.)
Excellent work ! Thanks for posting this. I bought into the 500 series cameras initially just for portraits with the 150mm lens but now I’m thinking I’d like a wide angle lens for landscapes and am looking around at the options.
I started with the kit 80 and a 'Sonnar' 250 which is impressive but a bit slow. the 80 can be a bit cramped. I recently got a 'Distagon' 50 and half the time I prefer it to the 80. It is impressive that they produced such a sharp lens with 50mm focal length given that the actual distance between the lens and film is much more than 50mm by about twice.
one feedback, at 8:24 you got the button wrong, that orange button is to un-block the F position on the lens (disconnects the shutter, for using on 200/2000 focal plane camera bodies), the black button on the apature ring ~120 degrees from the top of the lens, aka looking down at the lens focus and apature scales; is the one you need. two pointers on this EV (exposure value) style of shooting: 1) C lenses are coupled together by default, to uncouple shutter from apature, pull the saw tooth tab towards the camera body, shift the combination, then let it go back into a detent position, 2) C/F lenses are UN coupled by default, to COUPLE UP, you press the button, then turn, and let the button go (it is spring loaded) .
Great video Eric! I like that you had the info of the horizontal and vertical "focal length" rather than just the diagonal! I always thought the width of the 50mm didn't feel like 28mm on full frame like most people said.. since I don't like 28mm in full frame, but I do like the 50mm in 6x6!
One error, I just realised, at 8:24 the button Can be ~120 deg, this is for the NEWER CF-E or cf i models, the CF 180 I have has this button ~45 deg from the top, this is subjective, depends on which version you have.
just one more error in the discussion about focal length, NOT all MF cameras have a std lens as 80 mm, ONLY the 6x6 does, eg; if you shoot 6x7 (mamiya RB/RZ) the std lens is 90 or 127mm, if on the other hand you shoot 6x4.5 (Bronica Etr/Etrsi) then the std is 75 mm. it all depends on how the angle of coverage compares to the film/sensor size, as it is, like in macro photography down to the image size/reproduction ratio, what is classed as a std focal length lens for the format.
great lens discription, these are focusing Natively, if you add a single, or multiple extension tubes, or a 100/110 macro bellows lens and bellows, then this distance is shorter than what the 0.3 m stated on the lens. (hint\tip: the Hasselblad way, by earnst Weilde has a lot on these combinations, and IMPORTANTLY charts to show focus limits, dof at these focus distances, magnification ratio).
My preferred trio generally would be the 60-100-180. However I have the 40 FLE, 50 FLE, 60, 80, 100, 120 MP, 180 and 250 Superachromat and use them all. The one I use by far the least is the 80.
This is a great rundown. One question, at 14:57 that shot is a second shot from the 50mm (not the 150mm) isn't it? I recently picked up a 503CW an 80CF and 150CF and am loving the shooting experience. The framing is a struggle but it's a good struggle.
Hey man, firstly it was a nice video❤️ Secondly I'd like to know one thing that's kinda bothering me......can you tell if hassleblad make their own lenses?....like do they even design them or everything is done by some other company like nittoh or Zeiss??
Hasselblad has an optical design department where they designed in the past mainly prism viewfinders but V system lenses were designed and made by Zeiss, Schneider, Rodenstock. For the X-Pan who was a co-production Hasselblad/Fuji the whole detail design et manufacturing was made by Nittoh Japan and branded as Fuji or Hasselblad. For the H series cameras, lenses are designed and made by Fuji (shutters by Hasselblad) For the X series lenses, optical basic design is made by Hasselblad, detail design and manufacturing by Nittoh Japan (shutters made by Hasselblad).
There is one Zeiss lens for Hasselblad that never had T* multicoating, it's the 250 Super Achromat. They could not use multicoating to preserve the achromatic rendering for Infrared.
good explination, but one point with focal length, there is a thing called circle of coverage, and this is larger than the 6x6, as if you research, the PC Mutar has a 5cm shift in either direction, let alone what the ARCBODY and FLEXBODY are capable of, so these lenses, even though 6x6 is the 'output' , there has to be this safety margin so the lenses cover movements in these special bodies, or for eg. use in a Cambo Actus or ActusII system ( an LF style camera made with bellows + camera+lens, {the lens and camera body don't nececarily have to be the same make, as nothing is electrically transfered}), as this is also a cheaper alternative to get these shots, as with enough coverage, Teleconvertors, bellows, extension tubes, and other devices (like the HTS 1.5x tilt\shift adaptor for the XCD and H system cameras) can be used, to which these lenses can also be adapted, not exclusively to film bodies.
I have the 50mm the 120mm Makro and the 150mm. The 50mm is golden I shoot it all the time. The 120mm is just as good and fast becoming my favorite. The 150mm I hardly ever shoot and might sell it. But I don't shoot portraits very often and that is where the 150mm is best of the three.
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Thanks for your Holy Trinity video.
I have never owned or used a Hasselblad, but I have used
the wide-angle/normal/telephoto lens combination for
decades.
I used 55/80/180mm lenses on my Mamiya 6x6cm medium format
TLRs.
I used 50/80/180mm lenses on my Mamiya 6x7cm medium format
RB67 SLRs.
I used 24/50/105mm lenses on my Nikon 35mm SLRs.
I used 28/50/135mm lenses on my Pentax Spotmatic 35mm
SLRs.
I used 21/45/90mm lenses on my Contax G1 35mm
rangefinders.
I used 35/50/100mm lenses on my Argus C3 35mm
rangefinders.
I used 21/35/90mm lenses on my Leica M6 and M10
rangefinders.
I used 14/20/45mm lenses on my Olympus micro 4/3 digital
mirrorless.
I used 16/23/56mm lenses on my Fuji APS-C digital
mirrorless.
I used 14-24/28-70/80-200mm zoom lenses on my Nikon 35mm
SLRs.
You sir an absolute treasure trove of information. Thanks for sharing.
absolutely LOVE the ferry shots, a classic film look, esp. the 80 &150 pictures, good job; this also illustrates a point you didn't make about these lenses, they ARE prone to motion blur, esp. the telephotos, so, as you did, M-up, Tripod, and a cable, or radio trigger, to stop any motion blur.
Always a pleasure to follow your channel
Ohhh thank you!
I appreciate your good explanation. For me, your explanation of Haselblad lenses was easy and informative, and I was able to understand the differences between them. Actually, I'm quite a beginner at Haselblad. It's because I've been using only ordinary digital cameras. But my father was old, so I inherited the Haselblad that he used for a long time. I'm falling in love with Haselblad these days, and I'm looking forward to it even more. I got 503CX, CW and 40, 80, 180 lenses, and I also bought a digital back. When I get used to it, I try to film a lot. Thank you. I wish you good health and peace! (I live in South Korea.)
Hello Samuel, thank you very much for sharing your experience. 40 and 180mm are fantastic lenses!!!. Goof health for you too.
Excellent work ! Thanks for posting this. I bought into the 500 series cameras initially just for portraits with the 150mm lens but now I’m thinking I’d like a wide angle lens for landscapes and am looking around at the options.
I have the 503 CW with the 50mm FLE, the 120mm Makro and the 150mm. I never use the 150 though
I've the same lenses made for the rolleiflex sl66 so no problem with macro!
I have the same "trinity". I use the CF 80mm 90% of the time as it's so light, compact and versatile. Thanks for the video!
Thank you for your comment
Very nice video. Schneider makes the Hasselblad Variogon zoom, however.
Thank you. Yes I forgot it 🤦🏻♂️
And Rodenstock makes lenses for the "Arcbody" the Hasselblad technical body 😉
the often overlooked 60mm lens is great on weddings.
Ohhh great input, necer tried it. Thank you!
I started with the kit 80 and a 'Sonnar' 250 which is impressive but a bit slow. the 80 can be a bit cramped. I recently got a 'Distagon' 50 and half the time I prefer it to the 80. It is impressive that they produced such a sharp lens with 50mm focal length given that the actual distance between the lens and film is much more than 50mm by about twice.
6:10 Zeiss in German is pronounced Tsaiss; z is ts in German. Thanks for the video.
one feedback, at 8:24 you got the button wrong, that orange button is to un-block the F position on the lens (disconnects the shutter, for using on 200/2000 focal plane camera bodies), the black button on the apature ring ~120 degrees from the top of the lens, aka looking down at the lens focus and apature scales; is the one you need.
two pointers on this EV (exposure value) style of shooting:
1) C lenses are coupled together by default, to uncouple shutter from apature, pull the saw tooth tab towards the camera body, shift the combination, then let it go back into a detent position,
2) C/F lenses are UN coupled by default, to COUPLE UP, you press the button, then turn, and let the button go (it is spring loaded) .
Yes Andy, you are right. Thank you
Great video Eric! I like that you had the info of the horizontal and vertical "focal length" rather than just the diagonal! I always thought the width of the 50mm didn't feel like 28mm on full frame like most people said.. since I don't like 28mm in full frame, but I do like the 50mm in 6x6!
Thank you Jacob for your comment. Regards
One error, I just realised, at 8:24 the button Can be ~120 deg, this is for the NEWER CF-E or cf i models, the CF 180 I have has this button ~45 deg from the top, this is subjective, depends on which version you have.
just one more error in the discussion about focal length, NOT all MF cameras have a std lens as 80 mm, ONLY the 6x6 does, eg; if you shoot 6x7 (mamiya RB/RZ) the std lens is 90 or 127mm, if on the other hand you shoot 6x4.5 (Bronica Etr/Etrsi) then the std is 75 mm. it all depends on how the angle of coverage compares to the film/sensor size, as it is, like in macro photography down to the image size/reproduction ratio, what is classed as a std focal length lens for the format.
great lens discription, these are focusing Natively, if you add a single, or multiple extension tubes, or a 100/110 macro bellows lens and bellows, then this distance is shorter than what the 0.3 m stated on the lens. (hint\tip: the Hasselblad way, by earnst Weilde has a lot on these combinations, and IMPORTANTLY charts to show focus limits, dof at these focus distances, magnification ratio).
Great video, curious what brand/model hood you showed for the Distagon 50mm FLE ?
Thank you. It came with the lens when I bought it second hand, It is a Hasselblad but think it is for a 38mm Super Wide Hasselblad. Regards
My preferred trio generally would be the 60-100-180. However I have the 40 FLE, 50 FLE, 60, 80, 100, 120 MP, 180 and 250 Superachromat and use them all. The one I use by far the least is the 80.
This is a great rundown. One question, at 14:57 that shot is a second shot from the 50mm (not the 150mm) isn't it? I recently picked up a 503CW an 80CF and 150CF and am loving the shooting experience. The framing is a struggle but it's a good struggle.
Oupssss you are right!!! My mistake! On the 3 pictures together it is ok, but I made a mistake on individual. Thank you. Enjoy your camera. Regards
Good video. Nice accent
Add the 250 lens and you have the Ansel Adams "holy" tetralogy of lenses.
Yes, good idea. Thank you
Hey man, firstly it was a nice video❤️
Secondly I'd like to know one thing that's kinda bothering me......can you tell if hassleblad make their own lenses?....like do they even design them or everything is done by some other company like nittoh or Zeiss??
I understand they are made by Zeiss
Hasselblad has an optical design department where they designed in the past mainly prism viewfinders but V system lenses were designed and made by Zeiss, Schneider, Rodenstock.
For the X-Pan who was a co-production Hasselblad/Fuji the whole detail design et manufacturing was made by Nittoh Japan and branded as Fuji or Hasselblad.
For the H series cameras, lenses are designed and made by Fuji (shutters by Hasselblad)
For the X series lenses, optical basic design is made by Hasselblad, detail design and manufacturing by Nittoh Japan (shutters made by Hasselblad).
There is one Zeiss lens for Hasselblad that never had T* multicoating, it's the 250 Super Achromat. They could not use multicoating to preserve the achromatic rendering for Infrared.
good explination, but one point with focal length, there is a thing called circle of coverage, and this is larger than the 6x6, as if you research, the PC Mutar has a 5cm shift in either direction, let alone what the ARCBODY and FLEXBODY are capable of, so these lenses, even though 6x6 is the 'output' , there has to be this safety margin so the lenses cover movements in these special bodies, or for eg. use in a Cambo Actus or ActusII system ( an LF style camera made with bellows + camera+lens, {the lens and camera body don't nececarily have to be the same make, as nothing is electrically transfered}), as this is also a cheaper alternative to get these shots, as with enough coverage, Teleconvertors, bellows, extension tubes, and other devices (like the HTS 1.5x tilt\shift adaptor for the XCD and H system cameras) can be used, to which these lenses can also be adapted, not exclusively to film bodies.
Thank you Andy for this useful information.
great video, thanks
thank you!
great video. from fb hasselblad group
Oh thank you Nicholas!!!!
I have the 50mm the 120mm Makro and the 150mm. The 50mm is golden I shoot it all the time. The 120mm is just as good and fast becoming my favorite. The 150mm I hardly ever shoot and might sell it. But I don't shoot portraits very often and that is where the 150mm is best of the three.
Thank you for sharing your experience
Selling your 150mm?
The Hasselblad 50mm is the worst lens in the Hasselblad list. The best lens is the 100mm.
Well, there are not two persons who agrees on the same things 😂😂 thanks for your comment
“Worst lens”...where exactly do you base such a surprising statement?
This modern 50 CF FLE has a fantastic sharpness, it's the older 50 C non FLE that is relatively weaker
@@jean-claudemuller3199 fle is 3 times the price of C
@@zijunai8020 For a reason.