I had not picked my 500 CM up for 20 years since going digital and was having difficulty attaching the lens. I had not turned the screw far enough and watching your presentation made the subtle difference. I have two Navy Surgeon retirement portraits hanging at the Bethesda Naval Hospital in Maryland. They are 40X45 and were shot with the 500CM with studio strobes on location. I also used the Polaroid back in the studio rather than meters for checking my lights and exposures. It is great to once again handle an old friend. Thanks for your help.
Minor thing you missed. Shutter speeds 1, 2, and 4. Sometimes they have a red or orange line next to them. You must hold the shutter release button in until the exposure is complete or the rear blinds and mirror will return curtailing the exposure prematurely. A locking cable release helps thiscerror.
great video and tips, own one of these as well, one more tip: for bellows use, this "stop down" lever is useful too, as this gives aperture control to the ring, not open until the shutter is triggered, so is useful for macro work, or long exposures.
Thanks for the info. I am very new to Hasselblad lenses. I purchased a Hasselblad Carl Zeiss Distagon C 50mm f/4.0 to be used on a Fuji GFX50s. Was very confused with the dials and setting. Now I can go use the lens. thanks!!
Very informative :) my 503cx has the self timer. Everything you mentioned in the video works on my C T 60mm F3.5 lens except for the B long exposure, even though I hold down the shutter release, the lens closes immediately.
@@NicosPhotographyShow I googled the problem, and it seems others have the same issue, so I think my lens might need to be serviced, if I want to use the B shutter setting. I just bought it from eBay, seller claimed everything works properly. She might have missed out the bulb shutter. Oops!
Didn’t know that you had a timer on the C lenses, now I don’t wish I had the CF version of the 50mm C lens I have, just tested it now works with the 503cx. Must get that book.
@9:45 the 503cx has the “O” and “T” options on the shutter button as well, T keeps the barn doors open for long “manually timed” exposures. As for shutter delay on the lens, I have only seen that on the C lenses - not the CF.
yes, no self-timer on these cameras, BUT there is a way to split the shutter and mirror operations, use the button on the body put your thumb on the black button and squeeze against the viewfinders edge, pulling the button up, DON'T for goodness sake touch the winding lever! [ this is a subtle way of jamming the works, as this advances the mechanics before the shutter has gone into operation, need the coin trick to free, BUT take out the film back, open the 'barn doors' and put a screwdriver or the special hasselblad tool (flat blade) onto the SILVER screw under the back of the lens mount, turn clock-wise as far as is necessary to allow turning of the winding lever the rest of it's motion, RE- COCK and replace the back again]; this is the mirror-up mode, and is a kind of delay mode, the mirror raises when the lever is moved, but the shutter is still locked to the front button. and the T mode is correct, HOWEVER it ONLY works for the button press, a cable release negates this "lockup" as this operates on the button tube, the release cable end goes through the centre of this button, and operates the internals directly. mike Thomas has videos on this where he shows the tools and the rear of the camera! also a video from Annie 7 B shows how: ruclips.net/video/BTGInKJbLAo/видео.html
andy van thank you for the thorough description, but it left me confused. Is this for long exposure? Might have to try later or watch a video about it.
Great tips and intro Nico! I found the C lenses to be very confusing the first time I tried one - and was trying to test it for functionality but there was so many knobs and numbers! The default coupling of shutter and aperture are the biggest “gotchas”. I preferred the general usability of the CF line though wish for the self timer in the C line!
I have the Super Wide C Biogon 1:4.5 f=38, CT, it has the timer built in to the lens as well. Trying to figure out how to use this machine: also have the EV 500 with Sonnar 1:5.6 f=250mm . I think I will look for the book you suggested.
one more tip you missed out in the explanation of the T setting, @ 10:59 ; which is like the Mamiya Rb 67 cameras, the 1 ,2,4,8 setting of shutter speed is TOO SLOW for the barn doors, aka when you let go the shutter, the exposure is cut short as the barn doors close when you release the button, so there is a red line OVER these speeds to indicate this, so to remedy this : use the T to hold the barn doors open, or use a locking cable release ( the T doesn't work for the cable release operation), this is the SAME whether you have a 500 C/M body with the barn doors, or the 2000 F C W, etc.and use the CF lenses ( Focal plane shutter bodies- even if you set the lens to C mode)- the focal plane curtain has a protection system, as the back is removed the curtain retracts into the body, so you can't touch it. but all of the f bodies, the second curtain closes after the shutter is released ( film protection from over-exposure), so you must do as I said earlier, or the Focal plane bodies employ a special "mirror-up" system to alleviate this issue- need to use the manual of the camera, or the book "the Hasselblad way" as told in the video, PS : I have this book, most un-abridged work on the subject out there, he has 5 or 6 editions, if you DON'T want to know about the H system- digital bodies, go for any of the editions prior to 2008, but if you want the latest and greatest, get the most recent edition printed.( 2012?)
Thank you, Nico. That certainly cleared things up for me. Of course with long exposure, you’d have to add reciprocity, but nonetheless, a very clever design.
Thank you for your videos! They've been extremely helpful as I've started to orient my way around my camera. I have been trying to unjam my lens but no matter how much I turn the screw clockwise the shutter remains closed with no responsiveness. It will not open back up! Any hints?
...sorry to have to contradict you, but the Hasselblad 500C and 500C/M cameras do not have a self-timer function. In this video, the self-timer function is performed by the C T* series lens (the C series lenses have this function as well).
You might need to recock it thru the body, there might be a few videos out there on how to do it. But if you are not confident its better to get a technician to fix it.
Have been watching your hassy tutorials and really love them! To answer your question my 500C also has the self-timer (V) and does exactly what your 500CM does here.
Surprised to read that Nico. I used Hassellbads for many years, professionally and for my own work with never a jam. If you try to fit a cocked lens onto an un-cocked camera or the other way round, then it will jam- but that is ones own fault and not the cameras.
Yes, you take a shot, add the darkslide. Remove the back, advance the body without the back and attach the back again. I have a video on how to do it here too. Search double exposure hasselblad.
Hi Nico, will you be doing a similar video for the CF lenses? Just picked up a CF 80mm for my 500cm and have no idea exactly what some of the adjustments levers are for.
Hi Nico, thanks for the video! I have a 500C/M with a Zeis Planar 80mm f/2.8 Synchro Compur. However the focus rings stops at 5m and will not turn towards infinity. Do you have any idea what s causing this? thanks in advance!
I wonder are the aperture blades interchangeable between the 80mm T C lens and the 150mm C lens? I have a broken blade in my 80mm lens and I don't use the 150mm very much.
Thank you for the great guide. I just got into this and its super helpful! I got one question. I ordered a near mint chrome CT lens. But when I try rotating the coupling ring like you do @ 4:25. there is no click into position sound. Also there is some grinding noise. Should I be concerned? Thanks!
@@NicosPhotographyShow I just thought it was interesting because you mentioned you hadn't seen a 500c with a timed shutter. I hadn't even looked that closely at my own camera~
Could be you have set to depth of field preview. Make sure you open it all the way to f/2.8 and if you stop it down and it does it then you have it activated.
When you press the depth of field the lens will stop down to what f stop you want and that will show how in focus the foreground and background will become. For example at 2.8 it will not be visible as its so small, but at f11 it becomes very easy to see (but the screen does dim as it physically stop down).
Hello, im having a problem here, when try to turn the circle thing; it automatically springs back to its original place (doesnt with the red dot). can you please help? Thanks!
Hi Nico, great timing as I've recently bought a 2000 fc/m with a C 50mm f4. I managed to figure most things out, put about 5 rolls through the camera. I have a problem however, I'm getting a blank first frame on every roll. I've carefully loaded the rolls properly (as per your videos). Shutter, lens cocked together, film back first frame at no. 1 ok, white dot / white dot etc. I even sacrificed one film roll and checked the exposed roll, how it was positioned in the camera. The blank roll looked ok too (the first frame did not look mis-aligned). Do you have any idea why I am consistently getting a black first frame? Thanks in advance!!
I know they use the shutter in the rear, and lenses need to be set to a different option but its all just from memory, will check the book and get back asap.
Update on my Hasselblad film back, I spoke with the dealer where I bought it, he understands the problem and I can send it to him for repair service (film advance adjustment) as it's still under warranty, so it will be sorted out shortly....
nice video, but your not giving explanations for all of the settings for the lens. for example you say that the shutter speeds and apertures have to be synced but you don't give any reason why or explain it. it actually makes it more confusing after watching this video. why do you have to have the shutter open for 8 seconds on f22?
Love the video , but never ever use a screwdriver to re-cock the shutter, use a small coin, unless the lens is jammed onto the body, This is when great care is required as there is no other option.
lol such a big book :D I wonder how much rubbish in it, as there isnt that much info you need to know, just several generation of lenses and essentially you need to know 3 things, shutter not shutter old not shutter, and the other is regulated by how rich you are :D
I had not picked my 500 CM up for 20 years since going digital and was having difficulty attaching the lens. I had not turned the screw far enough and watching your presentation made the subtle difference. I have two Navy Surgeon retirement portraits hanging at the Bethesda Naval Hospital in Maryland. They are 40X45 and were shot with the 500CM with studio strobes on location. I also used the Polaroid back in the studio rather than meters for checking my lights and exposures. It is great to once again handle an old friend. Thanks for your help.
Minor thing you missed. Shutter speeds 1, 2, and 4. Sometimes they have a red or orange line next to them. You must hold the shutter release button in until the exposure is complete or the rear blinds and mirror will return curtailing the exposure prematurely. A locking cable release helps thiscerror.
great video and tips, own one of these as well, one more tip: for bellows use, this "stop down" lever is useful too, as this gives aperture control to the ring, not open until the shutter is triggered, so is useful for macro work, or long exposures.
Great tip!
Thanks for the info. I am very new to Hasselblad lenses. I purchased a Hasselblad Carl Zeiss Distagon C 50mm f/4.0 to be used on a Fuji GFX50s. Was very confused with the dials and setting. Now I can go use the lens. thanks!!
Oh!! Never thought of that user base. Glad it helped. And let me know if you need help with other classic lenses.
Very informative :) my 503cx has the self timer. Everything you mentioned in the video works on my C T 60mm F3.5 lens except for the B long exposure, even though I hold down the shutter release, the lens closes immediately.
Thanks, that is strange. Do you keep the button pressed? In B you need to hold it or lock the cable release.
@@NicosPhotographyShow I googled the problem, and it seems others have the same issue, so I think my lens might need to be serviced, if I want to use the B shutter setting. I just bought it from eBay, seller claimed everything works properly. She might have missed out the bulb shutter. Oops!
Thank you Niko for the great info's. Yes, the self timer works on my 500C
Thats awesome! Enjoy your 500C.
@@NicosPhotographyShow I can also confirm; the self timer technique also works on 500C
Didn’t know that you had a timer on the C lenses, now I don’t wish I had the CF version of the 50mm C lens I have, just tested it now works with the 503cx. Must get that book.
Its fun to have it for emergencies, but dont mind that CF its a stellar lens!
Really well done and easy to understand. Thanks for shooting and sharing.
Thanks!
@9:45 the 503cx has the “O” and “T” options on the shutter button as well, T keeps the barn doors open for long “manually timed” exposures.
As for shutter delay on the lens, I have only seen that on the C lenses - not the CF.
Good to know, thanks for the information.
yes, no self-timer on these cameras, BUT there is a way to split the shutter and mirror operations, use the button on the body put your thumb on the black button and squeeze against the viewfinders edge, pulling the button up, DON'T for goodness sake touch the winding lever! [ this is a subtle way of jamming the works, as this advances the mechanics before the shutter has gone into operation, need the coin trick to free, BUT take out the film back, open the 'barn doors' and put a screwdriver or the special hasselblad tool (flat blade) onto the SILVER screw under the back of the lens mount, turn clock-wise as far as is necessary to allow turning of the winding lever the rest of it's motion, RE- COCK and replace the back again]; this is the mirror-up mode, and is a kind of delay mode, the mirror raises when the lever is moved, but the shutter is still locked to the front button. and the T mode is correct, HOWEVER it ONLY works for the button press, a cable release negates this "lockup" as this operates on the button tube, the release cable end goes through the centre of this button, and operates the internals directly.
mike Thomas has videos on this where he shows the tools and the rear of the camera!
also a video from Annie 7 B shows how: ruclips.net/video/BTGInKJbLAo/видео.html
andy van thank you for the thorough description, but it left me confused. Is this for long exposure? Might have to try later or watch a video about it.
My 503CX has the self-timer option on the shutter release. Great video by the way!
Great tips and intro Nico! I found the C lenses to be very confusing the first time I tried one - and was trying to test it for functionality but there was so many knobs and numbers! The default coupling of shutter and aperture are the biggest “gotchas”. I preferred the general usability of the CF line though wish for the self timer in the C line!
Thanks! I like the CF lenses better too, but I do like the old stuff the Compur had like the timer or the linked speed and aperture, its fast.
I have the Super Wide C Biogon 1:4.5 f=38, CT, it has the timer built in to the lens as well. Trying to figure out how to use this machine: also have the EV 500 with Sonnar 1:5.6 f=250mm . I think I will look for the book you suggested.
Thats some nice stuff you have. Enjoy it!
one more tip you missed out in the explanation of the T setting, @ 10:59 ; which is like the Mamiya Rb 67 cameras, the 1 ,2,4,8 setting of shutter speed is TOO SLOW for the barn doors, aka when you let go the shutter, the exposure is cut short as the barn doors close when you release the button, so there is a red line OVER these speeds to indicate this, so to remedy this : use the T to hold the barn doors open, or use a locking cable release ( the T doesn't work for the cable release operation), this is the SAME whether you have a 500 C/M body with the barn doors, or the 2000 F C W, etc.and use the CF lenses ( Focal plane shutter bodies- even if you set the lens to C mode)- the focal plane curtain has a protection system, as the back is removed the curtain retracts into the body, so you can't touch it. but all of the f bodies, the second curtain closes after the shutter is released ( film protection from over-exposure), so you must do as I said earlier, or the Focal plane bodies employ a special "mirror-up" system to alleviate this issue- need to use the manual of the camera, or the book "the Hasselblad way" as told in the video, PS : I have this book, most un-abridged work on the subject out there, he has 5 or 6 editions, if you DON'T want to know about the H system- digital bodies, go for any of the editions prior to 2008, but if you want the latest and greatest, get the most recent edition printed.( 2012?)
I need you to write my scripts!
Extremely helpful info! Thanks so Much for the C Lens tips! And on my 52nd Birthday to Boot! Cheers Nico!!
Self timer tip is very cool! Been shooting with this setup lots recently.
Its a great setup! Its the ultimate selfie tool ;)
Thank you, Nico. That certainly cleared things up for me. Of course with long exposure, you’d have to add reciprocity, but nonetheless, a very clever design.
Thank you for your videos! They've been extremely helpful as I've started to orient my way around my camera. I have been trying to unjam my lens but no matter how much I turn the screw clockwise the shutter remains closed with no responsiveness. It will not open back up! Any hints?
Great info as always! And yes, the 500 C does have the same timer function as the 500 C/M Cheers!
Thanks, good to know!
...sorry to have to contradict you, but the Hasselblad 500C and 500C/M cameras do not have a self-timer function. In this video, the self-timer function is performed by the C T* series lens (the C series lenses have this function as well).
Great video and instructions. Would like for you to show us how these C lenses work with the new CFVii 50C digital backs.
Great help, thank you. My lens is stuck on the camera and won't come off. Any suggestion?
You might need to recock it thru the body, there might be a few videos out there on how to do it. But if you are not confident its better to get a technician to fix it.
Have been watching your hassy tutorials and really love them! To answer your question my 500C also has the self-timer (V) and does exactly what your 500CM does here.
Thanks! Its a cool feature, its sad they took it out for cameras after the 500CM.
553 elx (I believed all el series camera have this function)can use self timer. When you switch to T, it automatically trigger the shutter.
Never used that feature but it could be possible.
oh they jam real good. great vid - thank you!
Thanks Nico! Next will be how to unjam them.
Surprised to read that Nico. I used Hassellbads for many years, professionally and for my own work with never a jam. If you try to fit a cocked lens onto an un-cocked camera or the other way round, then it will jam- but that is ones own fault and not the cameras.
Very well explained. Really useful information. Thanks!!!
Thanks Walter!
9:40 you say "or doing a multiple exposure" but how? you need to reload the lens, so do you need to remove the back, correct? Thanks :)
Yes, you take a shot, add the darkslide. Remove the back, advance the body without the back and attach the back again. I have a video on how to do it here too. Search double exposure hasselblad.
Thanks for this video, just got exactly same planar model today for my 503cx!
Hi Nico, will you be doing a similar video for the CF lenses? Just picked up a CF 80mm for my 500cm and have no idea exactly what some of the adjustments levers are for.
It can be done. Go to www.superfilmsupport.com and write me there as a reminder.
Thank you! Your Video and Infos are very helpful! Cheers from Berlin Ralph
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Nico, thanks for the video!
I have a 500C/M with a Zeis Planar 80mm f/2.8 Synchro Compur. However the focus rings stops at 5m and will not turn towards infinity. Do you have any idea what s causing this? thanks in advance!
I love how I am waiting for my hasselblad way book and he holds up the book.
Its a great book!
I wonder are the aperture blades interchangeable between the 80mm T C lens and the 150mm C lens? I have a broken blade in my 80mm lens and I don't use the 150mm very much.
Thank you for the great guide. I just got into this and its super helpful!
I got one question. I ordered a near mint chrome CT lens. But when I try rotating the coupling ring like you do @ 4:25. there is no click into position sound. Also there is some grinding noise. Should I be concerned? Thanks!
Great video! Learned a lot!
Thanks Kevin!
Long time since you posted this, but I do have a 500c with the timed shutter control!
Its awesome! Enjoy it.
@@NicosPhotographyShow I just thought it was interesting because you mentioned you hadn't seen a 500c with a timed shutter. I hadn't even looked that closely at my own camera~
I noticed at 13:45 that your aperture blades are bent on the ends, were the lenses designed like this?
They are like that do they don't overlap the wrong way.
@@NicosPhotographyShow wow i just got one of the ‘new c’ 80mm 2.8 c t* lenses and i almost shipped it back because of that!
Love it Nicos. Thanks for these tutorials. Looking forward to get one of these amazing systems. Just trying to find one in a very good shape.
Thanks! Hope you find one. Working on new tutorials at the moment.
Nicos Photography Show will the coming CFV II 50C digital back work on the 500 system ?
@@rodriguezahr not that im an expert on it, but I would say it will.
Great video with some valuable tips
Legend
You've got a new subscriber👏🏻
Thanks!!
Hi sir, I have exactly the same model and it’s aperture is not fully opening when cocked. Do you know what the problem would be?
Could be you have set to depth of field preview. Make sure you open it all the way to f/2.8 and if you stop it down and it does it then you have it activated.
@@NicosPhotographyShow i tried and the issue still exists. I have uploaded a clip of the issue. ruclips.net/user/shortsNqyd6y5H_S0?feature=share
I figured it out sir. It was bc the ring teeth weren’t correctly placed. One extra teeth made the job.
Is there an interchangeable head with a light meter available?
Really helpful thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
My 503cx has the shuttle button lock also, and mirror lock up. Grins
I attached a B50 to 77mm adapter to my 80mm t* and it locked with the small pin. How do i get it unlocked to remove the adapter?
Doesnt it have a way to press the pin to unlock? It should have some way.
503cx also has O/T mode on the body
pardon my ignorance but I was wondering what is the Depth of field Button for? Thank you I hope you can enlighten me
When you press the depth of field the lens will stop down to what f stop you want and that will show how in focus the foreground and background will become. For example at 2.8 it will not be visible as its so small, but at f11 it becomes very easy to see (but the screen does dim as it physically stop down).
Wish I had seen this before I went outside for the first time. Had no idea about the linked settings once EV is selected.
Its rare today for people to meter in EV values, but there are some benefits to do so. Specially when using this lens.
Regarding the depth-of-field lever on C lenses: I have the Planar 100mm C T* f/3.5, but the lever unlocks at f/4 rather than at f/3.5. Is this normal?
Is there a mount to use the C lenses on a cinema camera?
Hello, im having a problem here, when try to turn the circle thing; it automatically springs back to its original place (doesnt with the red dot). can you please help? Thanks!
Have you turned it ALL the way? It takes a bit of extra turn. If it doesnt click into position the internal spring might be broken.
Hi Nico, great timing as I've recently bought a 2000 fc/m with a C 50mm f4. I managed to figure most things out, put about 5 rolls through the camera. I have a problem however, I'm getting a blank first frame on every roll. I've carefully loaded the rolls properly (as per your videos). Shutter, lens cocked together, film back first frame at no. 1 ok, white dot / white dot etc. I even sacrificed one film roll and checked the exposed roll, how it was positioned in the camera. The blank roll looked ok too (the first frame did not look mis-aligned). Do you have any idea why I am consistently getting a black first frame? Thanks in advance!!
Hi John, I will have to reasearch a bit as I have never had a F body. Seems weird that it would loose a frame, have you tried another back?
As far as I know the F body is very much like a C body just a higher shutter speed of 1/2000, have not had a chance to try another back yet...
I know they use the shutter in the rear, and lenses need to be set to a different option but its all just from memory, will check the book and get back asap.
Yes, the lens is set to "C" for my C lens. Thanks for checking the book for me!
Update on my Hasselblad film back, I spoke with the dealer where I bought it, he understands the problem and I can send it to him for repair service (film advance adjustment) as it's still under warranty, so it will be sorted out shortly....
My 500c also has the Selfors timer.
Please do a review on the 120mm Lens
nice video, but your not giving explanations for all of the settings for the lens. for example you say that the shutter speeds and apertures have to be synced but you don't give any reason why or explain it. it actually makes it more confusing after watching this video. why do you have to have the shutter open for 8 seconds on f22?
it was just an example, it's not required. I would depend on your light meter exposure setting for the lens
Now if I only could afford the camera system :) Great video, very well done!
They sometimes come out fairly cheap, but harder by the day as Hasselblads are well known today in the film community.
Sell one of your kidneys
Better to sell both.
very useful! thanks
Thank you!
My 500C does the selftimer aswell
Some 500C had the next 500CM innovations.
that's true my hassy 500c the same
Great video, and even a Hasselblad owner can get confused about the differences. Only complaint is who is the overly casually dresses presenter?
Thanks! That guy got fired after this video ;)
Cant You show wheres the infra red marking on the T lense? I cant find one on my 50mm
My 80mm doesnt have any markings but I found a video about it on the web, seems it was added later on.
Love the video , but never ever use a screwdriver to re-cock the shutter, use a small coin, unless the lens is jammed onto the body,
This is when great care is required as there is no other option.
I bought myself one of the special tools for this on eBay - it wasn’t too expensive and is purpose designed.
I think the ELX has this
Screwdriver is not good , I 've used 5p much better
I agree, just had a screwdriver at hand.
love all your vids,but this one leaves me suitably confused...too fast..not one of your best sorry.
Appreciate the feedback William. Not all are come out good. I thankfully can reshoot it.
@@NicosPhotographyShow Thanks, I will still continue watching your vids
lol such a big book :D I wonder how much rubbish in it, as there isnt that much info you need to know, just several generation of lenses and essentially you need to know 3 things, shutter not shutter old not shutter, and the other is regulated by how rich you are :D