How to disassemble the main camera elements - 1:06 How to reassemble the main camera elements - 1:54 About lenses, filters and hoods - 3:53 How to operate a lens - 4:56 How to mount and unmount a lens - 7:45 Unjamming the lens or the body - 8:12 Waist level viewfinders - 9:39 Prism viewfinders - 10:33 Using the backs - 10:55 Mirror lock-up - 14:05 Using a cable release - 14:25 Long exposures - 15:01 The different types of backs - 16:32 The base plates - 17:51 How to hold the camera - 18:55 Strap lugs - 20:05 The secret accessory mount - 20:40
@@NicosPhotographyShow A correction though，cb is one of the latest version that has cb on the lens itsef and looks like cfe or cfi with iconnic complex plastic rings，the one you have is the “new C” that has same lens structure as cf but metal focus ring and no f function
Packed for the upcoming adventure. Video on Hasselblads was timely. My latest accessory is a Bill Maxwell HI-LUX viewfinder for the 503CX. It's a beast of brightness and clarity which combined with the 2x magnifier is a killer combination.
Wow, I just found this gem as I am looking at getting a 500CM. I learned more about this camera in 22:09 than I have seen anywhere else!!! You're just plain awesome Nico. 3 thumbs up, and that's not easy!!! 👍👍👍
Hey, Great video! One of my favorite features of the Hasselblad system is the EV metering they use. That's the reason why the earliest lenses had interlocked shutter speed and aperture dials, you were supposed to pull the tab back and set an EV number on the side, depending on the light conditions. Then you would choose any of the aperture/shutter speed combinations and without worrying about changing the metered value as the dials would be locked. They changed this in the CF lenses because those could also be used with the F series bodies and then you'd want to lock the shutter speed dial to F and move the aperture dial with ease. A highly recommended accessory is the Hasselblad Winder Meter, which works in EV and doesn't even need any input from the user at the time of metering, all you have to do is read the indicated EV number and select that number on the lens, both of which are on the right side of the body.
I have a 500 c/m (I don't use enough). Thank you for this video. You covered a few things I did not know. One idea for a future video: digital backs for the 500 c/m.
A correction though，cb is one of the latest version that has cb on the lens itsef and looks like cfe or cfi with iconnic complex plastic rings，the one you have is the “new C” that has same lens structure as cf but metal focus ring and no f function
Thanks this was very helpful it's thirty years away since I last shoot a Hasselblad I bought a 500c today and desperately needed a reminder on many things thanks again!
Great video Nico. I use the 500 C/M with the CFV-50c digital back (the CFVII-50c is announced...) Perhaps it would be interesting to the users to show the function of the CFV50c. It is sooooooo great to take pics with a high-end digital gear and a full mechanical body. And btw - the lenses from 1975 or 1985 are still so unbelievable good that they fit the full resolution of the sensor - e.g. the 120 Makro-Planar still is one of the best lenses ever built. Best regards - Max
Thank you for making such detailed videos about film cameras. I'm in the market for a 500 series and this is really invaluable info, feel much more confident now as I look for a 500CM or 503CX!
@@NicosPhotographyShow had a bit of a go at a roll of fujifilm 400 yesterday evening. The viewfinder is so much sharper than my bronnies. And the lockup on the aperture/shutter speed combo, with the moving depth of field illustration pointer is all fab. 4x the price fab? Time will tell!
I can very highly recommend the 200/2000 series 6x6 analog Hasselblad camera, i very high recommend these lenses Zeiss Distagon 50mm 2.8 which have a very good close distance down to 15x15 object/scene, Zeiss Planar 110mm 2.0, Zeiss Macro Planar 120mm 4.0, Zeiss Tele-Tessar350mm 4.0 and Zeiss 2x Mutar or the later Hasselblad 2x of their own, the 110mm 2.0 gets to a very good 220mm 4.0 with the 2x a very good close up. At last but not least the Hasselblad SWC with the Zeiss Biogon 38mm 4.5
Hi Nico. Super happy to see this operations guide for Hasselblad V Series cameras and lenses. Requesting you to please share your recommended settings for Day and Night film photography for the Hasselblad 500 CM given that we are limited to ISO and Shutter Speed (max 500). Rgds.
I enjoyed your videos very much. Can you dedicate a session about different color filters and their effects in B&W and color photography? I appreciate it.
Are you able to source parts for 500 CM in Europe? Last year I purchased a mint appearing 500cm knew it would need a CLA however, when I took it to a experience camera repairmen he found a timing issue. I ended up returning the camera after two months in the shop as the repairman was unable to source the parts. The lens also had an issue it's likely both the lens and camera had been left cocked for years. It's a shame the camera looked new with not a scratch on it.
One other thing, it is definitely possible to load the film backwards and still see the loading marks! I did that once on vacation, distracted loading and lined up the arrows, shot a roll and it was backwards on the spool 😵
What is the rule when you want to change your back mid-roll. Let say you have two back with two types of film loaded and you decide to change your back. What should be the position of the shutter cocking? Need some explanation.
Nice info. I have the 501cm, just learning about that lens lock up issue you mentioned. I haven't had any problems in a dozen+ rolls so far but good to know how to get it resolved if/when it happens. Peace!
Does the old rule of not recocking the shutter if you're not using the camera in a long time apply to Hasselblads as well? My OCD kicks in when I see a white dot and a red dot. :)
@@this_account_is_suspended The 80mm CB does indeed have a different optical formula to the CF and later versions. However the 60mm CB is optically identical to its other versions; it just has a slightly cheaper build quality.
Wow thanks for showing me the little nuances of the 500CM things I had no knowledge of. I used to work with as assistant photographer back in the 80's in pop video production. I thought I knew everything about that camera even though I instinctively knew what lens or back he wanted. Just go's to show that we are always learning!
You use it when shutter speeds are slow enough that mirror slap will shake the camera enough to be seen in the results. So for example anything under 1/30 of a sec.
Great video Nico. Really useful overview. How often do you need to change the light seals in the film backs? Do you do I it yourself or get a service tech to do it?
I love my Hasselblad 500cm! I have been searching the web for a proper lens hood for the 80mm f2.8, but cannot find one. All the lens hoods I’ve tried have been too large and for ø60/80 filter size. Any help or links to a proper lens hood it? Thanks!
I would say you loose a stop or so, but at the same time you can see the whole finder from one point of contact. Its pretty nice for some work. The nicer finders are pretty bright too.
Man, cocking the shutter on the lens of a Hasselblad seems too overly complicated. Glad Mamiya used an easier, more foolproof system. Interesting vid, Nico!
Hi Nico - awesome video Thank You. My wife just bought me a gift of a Hasselblad 500 CM (used obviously) that she got overseas. I just finished watching this video and I wanted to ask you two questions. The first question is, the mirror lock up lever doesn’t seem to be as long as the one on the camera that you showed in your video and when I push it up there’s really nothing left there for me to hold on to, to pull it back down - so I’m wondering how do I do that? I mean, I can do it with my fingernails, but I would imagine it should be something more appropriate. While there doesn’t appear to be anything broken, seems like something is wrong. The second thing I wanted to ask you about is right under the "500 CM made in Sweden logo" that you said could be used for accessories. We’ll there’s another little bar or something just beneath the camera logo that has a hole in the center that must be used for something - Do you have any idea what that is for?Thanks again
The only way to bring the mirror lock up button back down is to take off the film back (dark slide in!), release the shutter, rewind the body and re-attach the film back. Not all 500c/m bodies have the second lower rail on the left with the small hole. It was there to hold a small hook that would support and tether the flash sync cord plugged into the lens, and was there to prevent strain on the flash sync cord pulling it off the socket on the lens.
First thing you do is make sure the film winding is crank. Then you remove the lens pushing the button. Otherwise thing will be thrown out of the wack and you have a broken camshaft on the lens. Hundreds of dollars to repair
while your videos are informative. Your presentation is lacking... It can't be that the most important visual aspect of the clip is your chest. Set the video camera in a way that lets the subject of the video i.e. THE CAMERAS be visual at all times. Not seeing the cameras all the time is annoying. While you are talking I am looking at a myriad of aspects of the cameras. Some of the time one can see only a shaving of the top of a camera. Then you show a close up while you talk that takes half the time to focus. before you take it away. Yes you are familiar with the camera but I need to have a few seconds longer to see and figure out what you are showing me. Take care.
How to disassemble the main camera elements - 1:06
How to reassemble the main camera elements - 1:54
About lenses, filters and hoods - 3:53
How to operate a lens - 4:56
How to mount and unmount a lens - 7:45
Unjamming the lens or the body - 8:12
Waist level viewfinders - 9:39
Prism viewfinders - 10:33
Using the backs - 10:55
Mirror lock-up - 14:05
Using a cable release - 14:25
Long exposures - 15:01
The different types of backs - 16:32
The base plates - 17:51
How to hold the camera - 18:55
Strap lugs - 20:05
The secret accessory mount - 20:40
Thanks for this Nico!
@@NicosPhotographyShow A correction though，cb is one of the latest version that has cb on the lens itsef and looks like cfe or cfi with iconnic complex plastic rings，the one you have is the “new C” that has same lens structure as cf but metal focus ring and no f function
Congratulations. I have owned Hasselblads since 1972. You are the first person I have seen on You Tube that knows the correct way to hold the camera.
I’ve used them for years without knowing this, I tried the grip on my camera and it did all the difference!
Well done Nico! you covered all the basics, I've used Hasselblad V system my entire career, over 40 years. :)
Great to hear! I do love a good Hasselblad. 40 years is way beyond how long I have used mine, but hope to say that when I hit that mark!
@@NicosPhotographyShow You'll get there, just enjoy the journey!!! :)
Love the production quality of this video! 3 camera angles, detail shots, great lighting, efficient walk through explanations! 👏👍😃
Thanks! Its what happens when you know it inside out.
Excellent overview before I buy my Hasselblad probably the CM. Thank you
Packed for the upcoming adventure. Video on Hasselblads was timely. My latest accessory is a Bill Maxwell HI-LUX viewfinder for the 503CX. It's a beast of brightness and clarity which combined with the 2x magnifier is a killer combination.
Oh, that sounds amazing, cant wait to see it.
Congratulations on 9K 🥇. Your productivity is on a new level with this editor.
Thanks! Yup, editor and me are making a good team by the day.
Wow, I just found this gem as I am looking at getting a 500CM. I learned more about this camera in 22:09 than I have seen anywhere else!!! You're just plain awesome Nico. 3 thumbs up, and that's not easy!!!
👍👍👍
Hey,
Great video!
One of my favorite features of the Hasselblad system is the EV metering they use. That's the reason why the earliest lenses had interlocked shutter speed and aperture dials, you were supposed to pull the tab back and set an EV number on the side, depending on the light conditions. Then you would choose any of the aperture/shutter speed combinations and without worrying about changing the metered value as the dials would be locked.
They changed this in the CF lenses because those could also be used with the F series bodies and then you'd want to lock the shutter speed dial to F and move the aperture dial with ease.
A highly recommended accessory is the Hasselblad Winder Meter, which works in EV and doesn't even need any input from the user at the time of metering, all you have to do is read the indicated EV number and select that number on the lens, both of which are on the right side of the body.
Bought Hassy today - had 4 questions - got all 4 answers here. Thanks a lot! Left hand ergonomics is a jewel
I have a 500 c/m (I don't use enough). Thank you for this video. You covered a few things I did not know. One idea for a future video: digital backs for the 500 c/m.
A correction though，cb is one of the latest version that has cb on the lens itsef and looks like cfe or cfi with iconnic complex plastic rings，the one you have is the “new C” that has same lens structure as cf but metal focus ring and no f function
Good video. I've been using Hasselblad for 10 years but still learnt some tips from you.
Thanks this was very helpful it's thirty years away since I last shoot a Hasselblad I bought a 500c today and desperately needed a reminder on many things thanks again!
Bravissimo, spiegazione eccezionale per chi non ha mai usato una Hasseblad, dalle cose ovvie a quelle meno scontate!
That mirror lockup on the hasselblad is a lot more convenient than on the RZ where you need to use a cable release on the lens.
Yup, its fast and ergonomical.
Great video Nico. I use the 500 C/M with the CFV-50c digital back (the CFVII-50c is announced...) Perhaps it would be interesting to the users to show the function of the CFV50c. It is sooooooo great to take pics with a high-end digital gear and a full mechanical body. And btw - the lenses from 1975 or 1985 are still so unbelievable good that they fit the full resolution of the sensor - e.g. the 120 Makro-Planar still is one of the best lenses ever built. Best regards - Max
Right on!!
excellent breakdown. The only issue is what body you are demonstrating vs others that dont offer the same feature. But I get it, you have to pick one.
Thanks! Well its a specific video on the 500CM as the title says. The thumbnail doesn't say 500CM.
Great intro to Hasselblad use, wish I'd seen this when I started with it. Thought my lens needed servicing, but managed to figure it out eventually!
Thanks! Its what I was aiming for with this video.
Thank you for making such detailed videos about film cameras. I'm in the market for a 500 series and this is really invaluable info, feel much more confident now as I look for a 500CM or 503CX!
Thanks!
Welcome!
Thank you for this!! this video was extremely useful as I have just purchased a Hasselblad 500 C/M !! l
Glad it was helpful! Hope you enjoy it!
Thanks for making this video. My 500C/M just landed 30mins ago. I now understand it in comparison to my Bronnie S2a and C2!
Glad it helped! Enjoy your newly acquired Hasselblad.
@@NicosPhotographyShow had a bit of a go at a roll of fujifilm 400 yesterday evening. The viewfinder is so much sharper than my bronnies. And the lockup on the aperture/shutter speed combo, with the moving depth of field illustration pointer is all fab. 4x the price fab? Time will tell!
Thank you so much for the comprehensive guide. Very well presented!
I can very highly recommend the 200/2000 series 6x6 analog Hasselblad camera, i very high recommend these lenses Zeiss Distagon 50mm 2.8 which have a very good close distance down to 15x15 object/scene, Zeiss Planar 110mm 2.0, Zeiss Macro Planar 120mm 4.0, Zeiss Tele-Tessar350mm 4.0 and Zeiss 2x Mutar or the later Hasselblad 2x of their own, the 110mm 2.0 gets to a very good 220mm 4.0 with the 2x a very good close up. At last but not least the Hasselblad SWC with the Zeiss Biogon 38mm 4.5
Really appreciate this video. I'm borrowing hogarth's 501c and just purchased a 500cm :)
Excellent video. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
@4:20 Bay-60 to 67mm filter adapters work great 👍 (if you get a good quality fit one... looks seamless)
I am thinking about picking one up next year, this will be very helpful! 👍👍
Thanks Robin!! Any doubts you might have let me know! 🙂
you guys need to meet up in Bilbao and do a collab video
@@toulcaz31 Yeah, hope we can make that happen next year! 👌
This is really helpful and informative. Many thanks.
I use 120 film in an A24 back. It works great. If you align the start properly you get all 12 shots!
Yeah, lots of people use them. Only issue is when you reach frames 13 and on if you dont remember you will get no pics.
Nice job. Learned quite a bit.
Glad it was helpful!
Whoa, I had no idea about the left handed thing. It really is more comfortable that way!
I know!! It was a revelation to me too.
Hi Nico. Super happy to see this operations guide for Hasselblad V Series cameras and lenses. Requesting you to please share your recommended settings for Day and Night film photography for the Hasselblad 500 CM given that we are limited to ISO and Shutter Speed (max 500). Rgds.
Thats a good idea! Will work on that video asap.
@@NicosPhotographyShow Thank You Nico. Looking forward to it. Rgds.
@@srwimpex4151 thank you for the idea!
@2:00 with the ground glass, I check the metal frame edges which should “stand up” like a table when inserted
Seemed a hard way to explain on video. ;)
Thanks for enabling me to unlock my film advance winder.
Nice! I like the format!
Thanks!
Great video Niko. Great camera, and a very good overview. Well done.
Thanks Phillip!
I enjoyed your videos very much. Can you dedicate a session about different color filters and their effects in B&W and color photography? I appreciate it.
Full knowledge in 22 mins. Great!!!
Nico's. Podrías doblar éste valioso material al español? Gracias.
Are you able to source parts for 500 CM in Europe? Last year I purchased a mint appearing 500cm knew it would need a CLA however, when I took it to a experience camera repairmen he found a timing issue. I ended up returning the camera after two months in the shop as the repairman was unable to source the parts. The lens also had an issue it's likely both the lens and camera had been left cocked for years. It's a shame the camera looked new with not a scratch on it.
One other thing, it is definitely possible to load the film backwards and still see the loading marks! I did that once on vacation, distracted loading and lined up the arrows, shot a roll and it was backwards on the spool 😵
Oh, yeah, that is an issue specially if you are going from a camera that loads the opposite way.
What is the rule when you want to change your back mid-roll. Let say you have two back with two types of film loaded and you decide to change your back. What should be the position of the shutter cocking? Need some explanation.
You just have to change when the camera is cocked and ready to shoot. Insert darkslide, change backs, take darkslide out and shoot the different back.
I've been using Hasselblad for some time. Some of the hints and features were new even to me tho. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful.
Nice info. I have the 501cm, just learning about that lens lock up issue you mentioned. I haven't had any problems in a dozen+ rolls so far but good to know how to get it resolved if/when it happens. Peace!
Thanks Shawn! You might not bump into problems at all, but its always good to be ready. Enjoy the 501cm, its a great camera.
Does the old rule of not recocking the shutter if you're not using the camera in a long time apply to Hasselblads as well? My OCD kicks in when I see a white dot and a red dot. :)
I have never had issues leaving it cocked during months at a time. But a mechanic would know better.
Very well done. Thank you.
Thank you too!
Hey Nico great guide amigo !!
Thank you!
little bit of 500c and cm bodies and backs serial numbers . all start with letters code is VHPICTURES 1 to 10.. so UVxxxxxxx is a 71
@0:40 isn’t that a CF instead of CB lens? I thought CB’s were more plastic.
Its a CB lens sadly. One less element on it.
@@this_account_is_suspended The 80mm CB does indeed have a different optical formula to the CF and later versions. However the 60mm CB is optically identical to its other versions; it just has a slightly cheaper build quality.
Wow thanks for showing me the little nuances of the 500CM things I had no knowledge of.
I used to work with as assistant photographer back in the 80's in pop video production. I thought I knew everything about that camera even though I instinctively knew what lens or back he wanted. Just go's to show that we are always learning!
Wow. Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
Excellent video, thanks for sharing
Thanks Haris!
Hi, Have you tried to use these film backs on digital Hasselblad 907X? If so how would you advance the film?
I have not. But I would say maybe the older 12 backs can help wiith the peep window in the back, you advance to the number on the backing paper.
Thank you that was an excellent orientation
very helpful video, thank you
I'm still confused about the mirror lock? what is it used for?
You use it when shutter speeds are slow enough that mirror slap will shake the camera enough to be seen in the results. So for example anything under 1/30 of a sec.
For not shaking the camera with mirror jumping specially high speed pictures.
Thanks for the video. Is the uncounted hasselblad lens supposed to be stored cocked ? Doesn’t that wear the spring?
Supposedly, but I never store the camera, I just keep using it ;)
What a great, helpful video. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
This video was super helpful. I just acquired my first Hasselblad CM. I wasted a roll of film trying to figure out it on my own. oops. hahahaha
Thanks!! Hope the next roll will work nicely.
Great video Nico. Really useful overview. How often do you need to change the light seals in the film backs? Do you do I it yourself or get a service tech to do it?
I have done it myself its very easy. And when to change them? When you get light leaks, so dont save up rolls for developing.
Thank You
thanks for this. great review after getting my 500 c/m outta the closet .
What makes the Hasselblad CM special and so expensive, say compared with a Japanese model from the same era, such as the Mamiya or Bronica?
Desirability, I guess
@@Gynra Yeah, I guess you'r right. Just like Rolex - not necessarily the best watch but most everyone wants one
Very helpful thank you
I love my Hasselblad 500cm! I have been searching the web for a proper lens hood for the 80mm f2.8, but cannot find one. All the lens hoods I’ve tried have been too large and for ø60/80 filter size. Any help or links to a proper lens hood it? Thanks!
Great information! Thanks.
Thanks Tom!
Hi Nico! Is the viewfinder much darker with the prism than the WLF?
I would say you loose a stop or so, but at the same time you can see the whole finder from one point of contact. Its pretty nice for some work. The nicer finders are pretty bright too.
1:34 that's a waist level finder not a chimney finder!
My bad. Sorry.
perfect video
Thank you!
never jammed a 500. easy make sure body and lens are cocked..
I have been careful all my life using Hasselblads, sometimes they jam. But its a matter of luck when it will happen.
Man, cocking the shutter on the lens of a Hasselblad seems too overly complicated. Glad Mamiya used an easier, more foolproof system. Interesting vid, Nico!
Yup, Mamiya was top of the top to me.
Hi Nico - awesome video Thank You. My wife just bought me a gift of a Hasselblad 500 CM (used obviously) that she got overseas. I just finished watching this video and I wanted to ask you two questions. The first question is, the mirror lock up lever doesn’t seem to be as long as the one on the camera that you showed in your video and when I push it up there’s really nothing left there for me to hold on to, to pull it back down - so I’m wondering how do I do that? I mean, I can do it with my fingernails, but I would imagine it should be something more appropriate. While there doesn’t appear to be anything broken, seems like something is wrong. The second thing I wanted to ask you about is right under the "500 CM made in Sweden logo" that you said could be used for accessories. We’ll there’s another little bar or something just beneath the camera logo that has a hole in the center that must be used for something - Do you have any idea what that is for?Thanks again
The only way to bring the mirror lock up button back down is to take off the film back (dark slide in!), release the shutter, rewind the body and re-attach the film back. Not all 500c/m bodies have the second lower rail on the left with the small hole. It was there to hold a small hook that would support and tether the flash sync cord plugged into the lens, and was there to prevent strain on the flash sync cord pulling it off the socket on the lens.
Superb
Thanks 🤗
First thing you do is make sure the film winding is crank. Then you remove the lens pushing the button. Otherwise thing will be thrown out of the wack and you have a broken camshaft on the lens. Hundreds of dollars to repair
El sistema de Bronica (S2, S2A) es mucho mas intuitivo y superior al de Hasselblad en mi humilde opinión.
Una opinion muy valida, yo nunca use una Bronica de esa serie pero soy muy fan de la marca.
Ya que hablas en inglés los subtítulos podrían estar en Español !
Lo haria encantado pero lleva una cantidad de tiempo enorme. Estoy preparando contenido original en Español para dentro de muy poco.
@@NicosPhotographyShow suena muy interesante , estaré atento, gracias
If I ever win the lottery or get adopted by Oprah, I'll have to buy me one of those. How about a Hasselblad H6D-100C? Man, this is some good weed!
No clue on the digital versions, not my piece of cake.
Those old hassies are very cheap, you don't need to win lottery to afford it.
Good info but you kill the word “little”.
It happens, Im Spanish so my adjectives are sometimes not there. Sorry.
“Bay-er-Net”
Exacto
Great, now the price is up another 10% after this video LOL.
Hahaha, Im not that influential.
while your videos are informative. Your presentation is lacking... It can't be that the most important visual aspect of the clip is your chest. Set the video camera in a way that lets the subject of the video i.e. THE CAMERAS be visual at all times. Not seeing the cameras all the time is annoying. While you are talking I am looking at a myriad of aspects of the cameras. Some of the time one can see only a shaving of the top of a camera. Then you show a close up while you talk that takes half the time to focus. before you take it away. Yes you are familiar with the camera but I need to have a few seconds longer to see and figure out what you are showing me. Take care.
Thanks, I wish my production could be better but its not that simple to produce. I hope to get better with time.
Peculiar pronunciation of "bayonet", as "b eye oh net" and not "bay oh net"
Great video! Thanks!
Thanks¡