I bought my Hasselblad just on impulse, and this video has given me a new perspective and appreciation on just how lucky I am and how mint the unit I bought was without knowing.
Bought mine recently based on the recommendation of a good friend 500 miles away and only a short fuzzy video clip. Turned out great, everything works and she is being cleaned and serviced now so I can burn some 120…
one thing you forgot mirror-up pads and light traps are not deteriorating, I bought one in good condition outside but the felt dampers for mirror damping were falling apart. Easily fixed with some strips of felt or rubber o ring cut and fitted. However a really good video and I found out about the lens and how to use it. and one or more things I did not know . Awsome thanks
great video Nico. I've changed a few A12 light seals, you can often tell if one is on the way out by feeling how easy the dark slide goes in and out, there should be some resistance.
I can very highly recommend the 200/2000 series 6x6 analog Hasselblad camera, i very high recommend these lenses Zeiss Distagon 50mm 2.8 which have a very good close distance down to 15x15 object/scene, Zeiss Planar 110mm 2.0, Zeiss Macro Planar 120mm 4.0, Zeiss Tele-Tessar350mm 4.0 and Zeiss 2x Mutar or the later Hasselblad 2x of their own, the 110mm 2.0 gets to a very good 220mm 4.0 with the 2x a very good close up. At last but not least the Hasselblad SWC with the Zeiss Biogon 38mm 4.5
Very informative video Nico! I’m stuck in a dilemma between at like-new 500cm and a studio used 501c, should I pick the newer releases 501c or the better conditioned but a few years older 500cm(1980s?) Consider price, everything else the same. Thanks in advance!
You might need a shutter tester. One way to do it for cheap is to use slow motion video on a phone and look on a computer how many frames you get light.
Hey Nico, I just got a 500cm in from KEH. I was wondering if it's if the barn doors close a little slower than the one in the video? I'm waiting on my lens so I'm testing it without the lens on. After I let go of the shutter button, they don't close as fast and as loud. However, they close flush. Can you also point me in the right direction for a focusing screen? The one I received has some chips so I might get a new one. Thank you!
Thanks very much Nico! I didn't expect a real video when I asked you. This is really helpful. 😁 Also, thanks for the mention, hope we can go shoot anytime soon.
One thing I always ask prior to buying a film camera is when the last CLA was performed for any camera, lens, back, etc. It's nice to know this to understand how the owner cared for the camera and should help you anticipate any possible issues down the road. Cheers!
I've watched this countless times over the past couple of years and finally bought a 500c/m. Thank you so much for this content, it made my purchase way less stressful
When I was young in the 70's I dreamed of owning a Hasselblad but made do with a Nikon F2. About a year and a half ago I purchased a mint 500CM and a couple of lenses for $1400. The seller did say the lenses were slow at slower shutter speeds. So I factored in a CLA, I had a real good local guy that was great at working on Hasselblads. I get the camera and take it to get checked and when he tries the low speed it was slow, dragged, when he tried to use a slower speed the lens froze ouch then it got worse the second lens did the same thing. Apparently the lenses had been left cocked for years, but that wasn't the only problem the body was out of time and he couldn't locate parts anywhere. I got a hold of the seller and got my money back but I swore off any more high dollar old cameras. Though I live in a fairly large city there are no camera shops that carry high end film cameras so I'm reliant on the web. I have a Mamiya 1000s that I enjoy and it's never given me a problem but that old itch just keeps coming back. Now the prices have gone up 30-40% and my great old camera tech has died of cancer, he was still working in his 70s while suffering chronic pain. Well if the economy tanks after the elections camera price will fall and I'll try again.
This video is the most helpful out there. Straight to the point. I'm on my way to buy my first Hasselblad right now and it's nice to actually know what to check before spending a load of money on a camera that's older than me :D
So according to that chart my EL/M is from 1974…ok, so Sky Lab era NASA.. that´s cool. I believe the C was for “Central Slutare” or central shutter in English, which Victor Hasselblad had to lobby Carl Ziess pretty hard into making. Anyway brilliant video!
The C (and C T*) Lenses have shutter from Compur with one spring, the CF lenses have Prontor shutter with two springs, make also shure that all the aperture settings works ! Old series C and C/M cameras become black in the upper part in the viewfinder when you use tele lenses or macro, so if you will avoid that you have to get som of the latest C series ( like 503 CW, 503 CWD, 501 CM , 500 ELX, 553 ELX or 553 ELD) or go for the F series with shutter in the camera, then you can also have lenses with wider aperture like Distagon 50mm 2.8, Planar 110mm 2.0 or Tele-Tessar 350mm 4.0, all 3 lenses exellent ! Make sure that the slut for the darkslide i lightsafe !!! Another go for lens will be the CF 120mm 4.0 Macro Planar and of course the SWC camera/Lens. In F serie cameras, check the electic functions and the battery. On all cameras check that the mirror is fine condition !
I am looking for a (rather budget friendly) portrait lens for the 501c. What to consider and how to check on the lenses? (I am a beginner with hasselblad; currently I only have the 80mm 2.8 C T*)
Great informative and straight to the point. Thanks a bunch. I’ve always wanted to buy a hasselblad but I never knew where to start let alone if I ever came across on I wouldn’t know if it’s good. Thanks
Very informative video. Quick question, my barn doors don't close all the way after I shoot, however, once I wind to the next shot, they fully close. Is this an issue or should everything be ok? Thanks.
It is an issue and when you can take it to a repair center. It could leak light onto unexposed film, I had that on one of my bodies and fixed it when I realized.
nico one piece of advise for people buying hasselblads, namely the el-m,el-x, etc. if the battery carosell (for the plastic cell type)- or any, is backwards, these go like they have epilepsy or tourettes ( NO offence intended), winding continuously, or not firing at all, ONE SIMPLE FIX, switch the battery around again, CORRECT POLARITY is key to it working right, and importantly, NOT loosing a roll of expensive film due to a motor drive "fit".
great video Nic'o. but one thing to say regarding C and CF lenses, C lenses have the shutter and apature rings COUPLED together by default, pull the saw looking tab on this ring towards the camera body, this de-couples this and you can set each independently; the F lenses are UN-COUPLED by default, you press a button on the ring, to couple together; each ring/button is spring loaded to go to DEFAULT position!!, so these lenses are not BROKEN, just a unique way of using them.
Thanks Nicos. Do I need to be worried with the shutter curtains having all of those marks, peeling, etc. - I see on the hassy? Same on your cameras in the video. Nicely put about "Cheap" :-)... Less expensive
@@NicosPhotographyShow Thanks! I was afraid I see the shutter curtains are peeling or something... Do you have a video on the operation, especially with flash?
I have started to “window-shop” after a 500 C/M camera body on E-Bay etc. and a strange thing caught my eye: some 500s have a * in front of the model name, so I have found some that say *500 C/M… Any idea what that´s about? I know that on the lenses it can say T* to significate the crystal coating but in the camera body?
Star on the model iirc means it was made in Japan for model designation, as with how Minolta had the names Maxxum / Dynax / Alpha depending on region of sale.
Does the one with the motor on it, have an early ektar? I seem to remember that when hasselblad got into cameras, they initially had ektars before going to Zeiss... Something about hasselblad being Kodak vendor in Sweden in the 40s.
The first ones did have Ektar lenses, but when they released the V series I think they started with Carl Zeiss, the one with the motor has a 150mm Carl Zeiss (silver finish)
Thank you so much, you have made many points very clear. I have purchased a used 500 C with 2 lenses, now I can check at least a things which I never knew before.
@@NicosPhotographyShow Thank you. I think I should start with B&W. Problem as I see is more than half a dozen different types of films stored in my fridge, I have to find out which one is easier to develop. Back in 2005 in San Antonio College I had a lot of problems in dark room. Hopefully now I will find some info on Google or on RUclips. Regards. Q.
This is a great overview of the Hasselblads. I was able to get a 2000 FC/M about 7 months ago. A bit of a specific model I know (2000 series) but I got it with the advice of a photographer friend, in excellent condition and for a pretty good deal. It's a learning curve as everything Hasselblad must be done in sequence but it all makes sense in the end. So I've been gradually improving my camera skills. Now I have 3 lenses and two backs, a fairly good set-up and everything functions well. Hasselblad may not be for everyone (I see a lot of young guys buying and then re-selling them) but if you connect with this product they are great fun to shoot with. I also learned a lot about Medium Format cameras by watching your channel so I was well prepared when I wanted to step up to MF. Cheers Nico!
I have the 503cxi with the 50mm and 150mm lenses. I shoot 50mm all the time but hardly ever the 150. I need to pick up a 120mm for close up such as flowers etc.
I have never owned a Hasselblad, I own a Bronica SQ-A. I have heard that the optics are better on the Hasselblad, heard they have less issues with malfunction. Maybe some day I can afford a Hasselblad.
Well this was a bit of a relief. Two days ago I bought a pricey set on eBay (hasn't arrived from Japan yet) and what I went by was the seller's 100% rating. But going through each point in this very good video I could make out that everything was positive. Seller was very careful to highlight matching numbers in back and the other thing (slide? who remembers). Could also make out the black dot on top of back with "12". Incidentally, I am no illusions that this camera will improve my picture taking. Thanks for the video. The only part I couldn't make out even with repeats was the beat up condition of the back in the first example. Couldn't see how that was different from the better example. This is a strange world, "Hassy", with $300 filters, etc.
Hi Nic! I found a good 500CM at a great price but the back of the camera have some ''smashing'' scratches that your are talking about. What kind of impact this kind of details could have on the camera exactly?
Will work fine. The idea on matched was that you were assured optimum film flatness since they were "matched" at the factory. Light seals are the biggest problem and yes only way to tell is to shoot a roll of film. Have had two backs develop that problem.
Nicely documented .... Agree that the CM is the one to get. I bought my 500CM classic new in '91 and it's wonderful. Get the acute matte focusing screen for the brightest view and a 45 degree prism finder. Let's hope they bring back 220 film so that we can use A24 film magazines and then get 24 exposures on a roll. Take care and happy picture taking.
There is 220 film available, Reflx Lab is selling Kodak Aerocolor film in 220 format, and Shanghai Film has been selling their GP3 BW film in 220 for a while now.
I could make that video but dont own it anymore. There is not much to them, just make sure meter is good and advance is good as they break a lot there.
I’ve suddenly put a dislike, sorry (screwed it, I know 😄), but then turned back and put a like, absolutely. A really nice Hasselblad system review - easy-going manner of explanation, thanks for it! Only start dreaming of the Hasselblad system in my kit, and the way it’s been shown on the video really impressed me. Thanks a lot. BR, Mike
Nico, just want to say that I enjoy you productions. You are a true friend to film photography. I truly like this video, my one suggestion to you is to S L O W down. I find that you are about five or six steps ahead of me most of the time. It would be so much better for me if you covered one area of the camera took a long pause and then went on to say talking about the backs and so forth. As I said I like your channel and look forward to your next one. Just my two cents worth as we say in the states.
I do know about them but its not a topic I usually talk about here. You have backs for Hasselblad made by them (a new one was just announced) but the older ones Im not 100% about, I know about Phase One too. But I dont research much on this.
Sorry you didnt enjoy it, I have moved on to a 3 camera angle to not flop them around. Being a one man team is not easy, but I will try to keep improving.
a photography show that cant be bothered splicing in some transitions so im not just watching some guy talk for 10 minutes like hes just had 12 cups of coffee
![Yailin La Mas Viral, @kreizyk.official - Dale 2 (Remix) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JaYHBzgqz94/mqdefault.jpg)
I bought my Hasselblad just on impulse, and this video has given me a new perspective and appreciation on just how lucky I am and how mint the unit I bought was without knowing.
Thats awesome! Sometimes we get lucky.
Bought mine recently based on the recommendation of a good friend 500 miles away and only a short fuzzy video clip. Turned out great, everything works and she is being cleaned and serviced now so I can burn some 120…
one thing you forgot mirror-up pads and light traps are not deteriorating, I bought one in good condition outside but the felt dampers for mirror damping were falling apart. Easily fixed with some strips of felt or rubber o ring cut and fitted. However a really good video and I found out about the lens and how to use it. and one or more things I did not know . Awsome thanks
great video Nico. I've changed a few A12 light seals, you can often tell if one is on the way out by feeling how easy the dark slide goes in and out, there should be some resistance.
Thanks Matt! I have had the chance to only change one and it didnt fix the issue. :(
I can very highly recommend the 200/2000 series 6x6 analog Hasselblad camera, i very high recommend these lenses Zeiss Distagon 50mm 2.8 which have a very good close distance down to 15x15 object/scene, Zeiss Planar 110mm 2.0, Zeiss Macro Planar 120mm 4.0, Zeiss Tele-Tessar350mm 4.0 and Zeiss 2x Mutar or the later Hasselblad 2x of their own, the 110mm 2.0 gets to a very good 220mm 4.0 with the 2x a very good close up. At last but not least the Hasselblad SWC with the Zeiss Biogon 38mm 4.5
You can’t throw infinity focus off. Set it on the lens and you are good to go.
I have found some bodies have the focusing screen wrongly adjusted and some lenses to have some small issues too, but infinity cant be easy to shift.
Great video! Helped me understand my current Hasselblad a bit better. Thanks!!
Thanks! Its a great system
Very informative video Nico! I’m stuck in a dilemma between at like-new 500cm and a studio used 501c, should I pick the newer releases 501c or the better conditioned but a few years older 500cm(1980s?) Consider price, everything else the same. Thanks in advance!
Great information, thanks!! How do I check shutter speed accuracy?
You might need a shutter tester. One way to do it for cheap is to use slow motion video on a phone and look on a computer how many frames you get light.
Thanks great starter video. Can the 500CM be fitted with a digital back ?
Tony tFuntek yes it can
Yup, a few are compatible. Included the new CFV II.
How to buy Hasselblads, save up lots of money.
Also applies to Leica Contax and Mamiya 7s.
Dont share the secret!
Great video! Really helpful!
Hey Nico, I just got a 500cm in from KEH. I was wondering if it's if the barn doors close a little slower than the one in the video? I'm waiting on my lens so I'm testing it without the lens on. After I let go of the shutter button, they don't close as fast and as loud. However, they close flush. Can you also point me in the right direction for a focusing screen? The one I received has some chips so I might get a new one. Thank you!
Kameratori mainittu torille!
Is the 500c any good?
What do you think of the Hasselblad H Series with the film attachment?
Its an amazing tool. I will make a video on it soon as a friend has one.
Nicos Photography Show great I can’t wait!
As soon as I get it I will feature it
GOOD Video.
Answer: Sell Kidney.
Or both, imagine 15 years ago...
Here is the best secret to buying a hassy. Put it down and buy a bronica. Use the money you saved to take that Brony on a photography trip.
Hahaha. Could be true. Never had a 6x6 Bronica but my GS-1 is pretty nice.
@@NicosPhotographyShow I love my GS-1!
Wait till you try selling a Bronica with a few hard miles on the clock! Good luck.
Oh, so you're trying to sell your Bronica to afford a Hassy? ;)
Thanks very much Nico! I didn't expect a real video when I asked you. This is really helpful. 😁 Also, thanks for the mention, hope we can go shoot anytime soon.
Thanks for giving me the idea to produce this!
Excellent video. You pretty much explained everything that there is to know. One of the best guides on the V-System so far.
One thing I always ask prior to buying a film camera is when the last CLA was performed for any camera, lens, back, etc. It's nice to know this to understand how the owner cared for the camera and should help you anticipate any possible issues down the road. Cheers!
I've watched this countless times over the past couple of years and finally bought a 500c/m. Thank you so much for this content, it made my purchase way less stressful
When I was young in the 70's I dreamed of owning a Hasselblad but made do with a Nikon F2. About a year and a half ago I purchased a mint 500CM and a couple of lenses for $1400. The seller did say the lenses were slow at slower shutter speeds. So I factored in a CLA, I had a real good local guy that was great at working on Hasselblads. I get the camera and take it to get checked and when he tries the low speed it was slow, dragged, when he tried to use a slower speed the lens froze ouch then it got worse the second lens did the same thing. Apparently the lenses had been left cocked for years, but that wasn't the only problem the body was out of time and he couldn't locate parts anywhere. I got a hold of the seller and got my money back but I swore off any more high dollar old cameras. Though I live in a fairly large city there are no camera shops that carry high end film cameras so I'm reliant on the web. I have a Mamiya 1000s that I enjoy and it's never given me a problem but that old itch just keeps coming back. Now the prices have gone up 30-40% and my great old camera tech has died of cancer, he was still working in his 70s while suffering chronic pain. Well if the economy tanks after the elections camera price will fall and I'll try again.
Any insight on cracking palpas inside the body?
Doesnt affect use unless a chunk get loose, then just clean it a bit with some soft air.
This video is the most helpful out there. Straight to the point. I'm on my way to buy my first Hasselblad right now and it's nice to actually know what to check before spending a load of money on a camera that's older than me :D
So according to that chart my EL/M is from 1974…ok, so Sky Lab era NASA.. that´s cool.
I believe the C was for “Central Slutare” or central shutter in English, which Victor Hasselblad had to lobby Carl Ziess pretty hard into making.
Anyway brilliant video!
Thanks! Hahaha! Its awesome to know when they are made.
Yes it rally is. @@NicosPhotographyShow
Hi Nicos, Exellent review! Just note that Compur and Computer are two slightly different things :-D Best!
how to buy Hasselblad? you simply buy Kiev88. done:)
Damn, never thought of that.
Just found this "old" video....Nico looks so much younger....now he's more vintage like his cameras.....
Age doesnt stop for anyone!
The C (and C T*) Lenses have shutter from Compur with one spring, the CF lenses have Prontor shutter with two springs, make also shure that all the aperture settings works ! Old series C and C/M cameras become black in the upper part in the viewfinder when you use tele lenses or macro, so if you will avoid that you have to get som of the latest C series ( like 503 CW, 503 CWD, 501 CM , 500 ELX, 553 ELX or 553 ELD) or go for the F series with shutter in the camera, then you can also have lenses with wider aperture like Distagon 50mm 2.8, Planar 110mm 2.0 or Tele-Tessar 350mm 4.0, all 3 lenses exellent ! Make sure that the slut for the darkslide i lightsafe !!! Another go for lens will be the CF 120mm 4.0 Macro Planar and of course the SWC camera/Lens. In F serie cameras, check the electic functions and the battery. On all cameras check that the mirror is fine condition !
I am looking for a (rather budget friendly) portrait lens for the 501c. What to consider and how to check on the lenses?
(I am a beginner with hasselblad; currently I only have the 80mm 2.8 C T*)
Great informative and straight to the point. Thanks a bunch. I’ve always wanted to buy a hasselblad but I never knew where to start let alone if I ever came across on I wouldn’t know if it’s good. Thanks
Very informative video. Quick question, my barn doors don't close all the way after I shoot, however, once I wind to the next shot, they fully close. Is this an issue or should everything be ok? Thanks.
It is an issue and when you can take it to a repair center. It could leak light onto unexposed film, I had that on one of my bodies and fixed it when I realized.
nico one piece of advise for people buying hasselblads, namely the el-m,el-x, etc. if the battery carosell (for the plastic cell type)- or any, is backwards, these go like they have epilepsy or tourettes ( NO offence intended), winding continuously, or not firing at all, ONE SIMPLE FIX, switch the battery around again, CORRECT POLARITY is key to it working right, and importantly, NOT loosing a roll of expensive film due to a motor drive "fit".
Do they have individual serial numbers? for insurance purposes
They do.
Nico, nice video thanks. I am confused about 500 cm and c/M. Which one you show here and what are the differences between the two! Thanks
What’s the going price today in 2023 from a private seller?
great video Nic'o. but one thing to say regarding C and CF lenses, C lenses have the shutter and apature rings COUPLED together by default, pull the saw looking tab on this ring towards the camera body, this de-couples this and you can set each independently; the F lenses are UN-COUPLED by default, you press a button on the ring, to couple together; each ring/button is spring loaded to go to DEFAULT position!!, so these lenses are not BROKEN, just a unique way of using them.
Finally a review worth watching and saving for future reference. Thank you!
Hope it helps!
Thanks Nicos. Do I need to be worried with the shutter curtains having all of those marks, peeling, etc. - I see on the hassy? Same on your cameras in the video.
Nicely put about "Cheap" :-)... Less expensive
No, the marks wont affect at all.
@@NicosPhotographyShow Thanks! I was afraid I see the shutter curtains are peeling or something...
Do you have a video on the operation, especially with flash?
I have started to “window-shop” after a 500 C/M camera body on E-Bay etc. and a strange thing caught my eye: some 500s have a * in front of the model name, so I have found some that say *500 C/M… Any idea what that´s about? I know that on the lenses it can say T* to significate the crystal coating but in the camera body?
If Im not too wrong I think they where store units to show customers, but dont quote me on that.
Star on the model iirc means it was made in Japan for model designation, as with how Minolta had the names Maxxum / Dynax / Alpha depending on region of sale.
Does the one with the motor on it, have an early ektar? I seem to remember that when hasselblad got into cameras, they initially had ektars before going to Zeiss... Something about hasselblad being Kodak vendor in Sweden in the 40s.
The first ones did have Ektar lenses, but when they released the V series I think they started with Carl Zeiss, the one with the motor has a 150mm Carl Zeiss (silver finish)
@@NicosPhotographyShow www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/Index/HWIndex.aspx
Thank you! This video answered so many questions!
Glad it helped!!
Thank you so much, you have made many points very clear. I have purchased a used 500 C with 2 lenses, now I can check at least a things which I never knew before.
Glad it helped! Enjot your 500C.
@@NicosPhotographyShow Thank you again. Now I have to learn how to develop my films. $11-17/ roll from labs is not average person can afford.
Color or black and white?
@@NicosPhotographyShow Thank you. I think I should start with B&W. Problem as I see is more than half a dozen different types of films stored in my fridge, I have to find out which one is easier to develop. Back in 2005 in San Antonio College I had a lot of problems in dark room. Hopefully now I will find some info on Google or on RUclips. Regards. Q.
@@NicosPhotographyShow Thanks, I will start with B&W, most likely Ilford film.
This is a great overview of the Hasselblads. I was able to get a 2000 FC/M about 7 months ago. A bit of a specific model I know (2000 series) but I got it with the advice of a photographer friend, in excellent condition and for a pretty good deal. It's a learning curve as everything Hasselblad must be done in sequence but it all makes sense in the end. So I've been gradually improving my camera skills. Now I have 3 lenses and two backs, a fairly good set-up and everything functions well. Hasselblad may not be for everyone (I see a lot of young guys buying and then re-selling them) but if you connect with this product they are great fun to shoot with. I also learned a lot about Medium Format cameras by watching your channel so I was well prepared when I wanted to step up to MF. Cheers Nico!
If you do not have the Distagon 50mm 2.8 or the Planar 110mm 2.0, try them out, they are superb lenses !
I have the 503cxi with the 50mm and 150mm lenses. I shoot 50mm all the time but hardly ever the 150. I need to pick up a 120mm for close up such as flowers etc.
I have never owned a Hasselblad, I own a Bronica SQ-A. I have heard that the optics are better on the Hasselblad, heard they have less issues with malfunction. Maybe some day I can afford a Hasselblad.
Well this was a bit of a relief. Two days ago I bought a pricey set on eBay (hasn't arrived from Japan yet) and what I went by was the seller's 100% rating. But going through each point in this very good video I could make out that everything was positive. Seller was very careful to highlight matching numbers in back and the other thing (slide? who remembers). Could also make out the black dot on top of back with "12". Incidentally, I am no illusions that this camera will improve my picture taking. Thanks for the video. The only part I couldn't make out even with repeats was the beat up condition of the back in the first example. Couldn't see how that was different from the better example. This is a strange world, "Hassy", with $300 filters, etc.
WHAT SIZE IS THE FILM IN THE HASSELBLAD 500CM 2 1/4 x 2 1/4?
The film the Hasselblad uses is 120. Its a name that was given to the format. Look for medium format film or 120 film.
It shoots 6x6cm which is roughly 2 1/4 if I’m not mistaken
Yeah, the frame it exposes is 56mmx56mm
Hi Nic!
I found a good 500CM at a great price but the back of the camera have some ''smashing'' scratches that your are talking about. What kind of impact this kind of details could have on the camera exactly?
Congrats! No issues with the back scratches, its just aesthetics.
May I ask how much the price range of this camera is to consider it is a great price, please? I am lost
Around 1000€ or USD. A bit up or down depending on condition.
what could go wrong if the film back case serial number does not match the insert serial number?
Niicos, how do you test if the camera focuses to infinity? I have the 500 C/M.
You need to try and focus at a mountain or antena that's around 1 kilometer away. If it doesn't align then the focus is off.
@@NicosPhotographyShow I guess that was obvious.
Well done, thank you...
Thanks!!
Awesome video! Thank you! Just got my very own 501c :D
Thanks! Enjoy it, and if you have any doubts let me know.
Will it cause major issues if the back and insert don't match serials? Such more prone to jams or light leaks?
Supposedly they matched them at the factory, but Im pretty sure nothing mayor will happen if not the same serial.
Nothing is wrong mismatching they. I have six different backs and never had had issues
Will work fine. The idea on matched was that you were assured optimum film flatness since they were "matched" at the factory.
Light seals are the biggest problem and yes only way to tell is to shoot a roll of film.
Have had two backs develop that problem.
Nicely documented .... Agree that the CM is the one to get. I bought my 500CM classic new in '91 and it's wonderful. Get the acute matte focusing screen for the brightest view and a 45 degree prism finder. Let's hope they bring back 220 film so that we can use A24 film magazines and then get 24 exposures on a roll. Take care and happy picture taking.
There is 220 film available, Reflx Lab is selling Kodak Aerocolor film in 220 format, and Shanghai Film has been selling their GP3 BW film in 220 for a while now.
Thank you for sharing. Very informative!
Thanks!
Thank you for this very helpful video 👍
What about the 501cm ? Is it not better?
That ELM is not a "Moon Edition". It's just an EL/M
It has the moon plaque on it. I know there is the white version, this seems to be some other version but also moon.
@@NicosPhotographyShow The Hasselblad cameras for the moonwalks is NOT as any other Hasselblad cameras.
again, great video, thank you!
Thanks!
Superinformative video! Really useful. Now only things remaining is to spare something in bank xD
So true! Hope you can get one at some point!
@@NicosPhotographyShow thanks. :) Definitely!
Thank you for the informative video.
Glad you enjoyed it Dominic!
how to buy mamiya 6?
I could make that video but dont own it anymore. There is not much to them, just make sure meter is good and advance is good as they break a lot there.
Hey great video thanks for the info :)
Thanks! Next is the Mamiya RZ67. ;)
excellent.
Nice & Thanks :)
Thanks!
excellent
I’ve suddenly put a dislike, sorry (screwed it, I know 😄), but then turned back and put a like, absolutely. A really nice Hasselblad system review - easy-going manner of explanation, thanks for it! Only start dreaming of the Hasselblad system in my kit, and the way it’s been shown on the video really impressed me. Thanks a lot.
BR,
Mike
Hahaha, thanks Mike! They are an awesome cameras, hope you can get your kit together and enjoy it.
Nico, just want to say that I enjoy you productions. You are a true friend to film photography. I truly like this video, my one suggestion to you is to S L O W down. I find that you are about five or six steps ahead of me most of the time. It would be so much better for me if you covered one area of the camera took a long pause and then went on to say talking about the backs and so forth. As I said I like your channel and look forward to your next one. Just my two cents worth as we say in the states.
I value your input. I do run fast sometimes. I will try a slower pace next time.
Have you heard about the Digital Back for Mediumformat Cameras? Would be nice to hear your oppinion about it.
I do know about them but its not a topic I usually talk about here. You have backs for Hasselblad made by them (a new one was just announced) but the older ones Im not 100% about, I know about Phase One too. But I dont research much on this.
An excellent overview that could be made better by simply showing us the items of discussing instead flipping and flopping them though the air.
Sorry you didnt enjoy it, I have moved on to a 3 camera angle to not flop them around. Being a one man team is not easy, but I will try to keep improving.
@@NicosPhotographyShow I thought you did a skillful job and videos where the demonstrator moves slowly doing simple things are a big turn off.
why are you in such a hurry?
I try to be concise. And I find I speak too slow. You can always play it back at x0.75 speed. ;)
Very good advice, thanks. I disagree with you the best Hasselblad is the 503CW .
Actually it's the 553 ELX, or the H6d 50 or the 907x or the X-Pan but that's a different video!!!!
a photography show that cant be bothered splicing in some transitions so im not just watching some guy talk for 10 minutes like hes just had 12 cups of coffee
Sorry it felt like that to you.
Damn, people are mean on free content someone else worked on…. Hopefully they got a life lesson in the last 4 yrs 😂 @nicophotographyshow