Thank you, your presentation is spot on . As a life long photographer which includes many years w/500 CM . I have been a bit intimidated w/using my 907 50 & adapting it to my 500CM body . . as well a using the 907 w/its lens adapter ( quite a few steps ) & my older Hasselblad lens . I'm not as fast a user at 76 as I was "back in the day" . Again Thank You .
Thank you for making this vid. Have had the 907x and CFV for a while now and had no idea you could do Live View or electronic shutter with my 500CM. Makes focusing and composing way easier due to the crop. Really helpful!!
I love seeing the camera that I bought back in 1973 still has a use today. FYI...I still have that camera and it still works. I was working digital on a Hasselblad back in the 90's using the E7 from MegaVision(to be honest...I know it was MegaVision. The model...not so sure). That process was painful in that the camera was always tethered and it took a while from when the camera clicked, to get the image on the computer. A painful process back then but it was all we had. As for the options today like you show in your video...I am surprised the image is not a square. I wonder why Hasselblad chose this route? Love live the Hasselblad.💓
Thank you Lucas for your excellent video. It is truly the first one out there of its kind. I have seen a lot of video which bad mouth the old v lenses calling them old and inferior to the modern design. In my experience there is nothing wrong with these lenses. I get incredible photos on film using them. It is nice to hear that someone can get excellent results with this back on the V system. I think that your video just convince me to take another look at the back and possible get if for my 503cx
What this is an elegant solution to using a digital back on an analogue camera. HOWEVER, it is not correct to say that it is the 'same' as any other off-the-shelf medium format digital system you can buy. There are obvious compromises in operation (e.g. no autofocus, no IBIS, not even coupled automatic exposure), but even more important is that the sensor size is SIGNIFICANTLY smaller than even 645 film and even most digital back sensors currently available. That means that even the widest rectalinear corrected lens for the Hasselblad V series that is still widely available (the 40mm distagon) has a focal length equivalent in 35mm terms of...35mm. That is literally as wideangle as it will go and makes this a poor (and expensive) choice for anyone needing more wideangle capability....
You have attached the pro lens shade upside down. If you look closely at the front of the pro-shade, you will notice slot. This is for inserting masks for longer lenses. Of the shade is upside down, the masks will drop out. 😁 The purchasing of Ernst Wildi's Hasselblad Manuel is a worthy investment.
There is also a slot midway for thinner gell filters. Im aware its upside down, it is intentional. Makes it easier for me to hand hold focus, otherwise the rails are in my way
i had a p25+ a decade ago. the images were so beautiful w/ my 503cx. but some of the big caveats for me when shooting portraits (since that's what i primarily do) were just having to actuate the winder for every single shot. i switched back to my canon 5d3 for primary until 2019 when I got into the fuji 50s. it was nice and a lot easier to use, worked fantastic w/ portraits, but highland and shadow recovery weren't as good as the p25+ surprisingly. but still, i can't believe that nobody is making a 6x6 sensor.
Great video! Thank you. If I could afford it, I'd say I'd wait for a 6x6 sensor before picking up a digital back. But like you say, the detail is plenty even in a cropped 3.29x3.29.
@@TypewriterChicago Exactly! The crop factor for field of view and light and depth of field are things I would want to avoid when switching between film and digital on my 500 C/M. I've used this camera for 19 years and relearning it with this cropped digital back would be fun! But also kind of a bummer. Also, seriously great video. Thank you so much.
@@theatyhannington depth of field and field of view are my two major sticking points, but it's still larger than full frame! I use it for all my professional and personal still work. I've got a second (somewhat unpopular) video using it for closeup product photos for fun! But thank you! Glad you enjoyed this and found it helpful
Thx for the great hands-on video! The point what keeps me from buying (ok, saving up some €€€ 1st) it is the question, will my old lenses perform on a digitial sensor with this high resolution? There are C, CF and CFE lenses out there and I would assume the older the lens, the less good is the quality. And then cropping becomes less and less an option. Therefore, I just filled my fridge/freezer with some roles of Ilford Delta 100 and 400.
Valid question, those old lenses are great! Some are better than others for sure. The 50mm CF is ever so slightly sharper than the C, and is the sharpest lens I've ever used. Beats the absolute $h!t out of the Nikkor 50mm AFD which people shoot professionally! The 80mm is your run of the mill lens, both C and CF. Can't really afford the CF, but the C is plenty sharp. The 150mm is cheap but also incredibly sharp. You see how they perform on fine grain film, they're excellent.
also to swivel the camera to the portrait orientation, a mounting bracket which fits onto the dovetail plate on the bottom was created, to swing the v system cameras, so maybe this will be a good idea.
Just to answer the question on how the camera knows when you are taking shots, the clear thing about the digital back is that it is trying to use features on the 500cm camera, the little pin that sticks out at the button right hand side of the rear door was used to prevent you from taking pictures with dark slides in the film back, but it is now the interface that links the shutter button and the digital back.
You will see when you press the shutter that silver pin will pop out and it used to go into hole on the film back which is covered by the dark slide when it is inserted, now it just go into the digital back which triggers it much like a sync cable
@@williamchen5832 yes, but not exactly. It's a little more complex, the pin also comes out when you put the camera in mirror lockup, however the digital back won't recognize it until you press the shutter button as well. I have a feeling the sensor in the back registers two distances on the pin separately.
I do however like the idea you have the iconic design, but can change backs from film to digital. NOW that's what I call a camera. So if I prefer to shoot with black and white film, I can do that. But if I need to go digital, I can do that as well. And above all, you don't change the great iconic design...which I like a lot.
Hello there, I've own a Hasselblad 500CM since December 1980 and a year ago I got the CFV digital back, lately I've been trying to shoot tether using the camera's FOCUS software, but haven't been able to shoot through the computer using the button on the screen, I can only do it pressing the shutter release button on the camera, Any ideas on how to do it through the software? Thanks, by the way, this video is really great and informative.
Haha great video! But yeah you shouldn’t take the back off your camera when the back is on because it attracts dust when electrically charged, you shouldn’t put it face down on a table and you definitely shouldn’t blow on a sensor or lens with your mouth. Even though we can’t see it the air you blow out is full of water particles. You don’t want to know moisture into these places. Fungus and all that u know
Great video! I assume you can set the ISO to the same as your film and get the picture just the way you want it with the digital back and then simply switch to the film back and take the picture on film. Would be great to see if that results in the same correct exposure.
I imagine it would, though an unserviced mechanical shutter may cause variation. It'll also come down to the accuracy of the ISO sensitivity which I'd assume is just fine.
good video, but as per the manual for the CF backs, PREPARE everything first, THEN take the protection cover off the sensor!, as you NEVER want to damage the IR filter glass in front of the ccd/cmos sensor!, and this prevents dust getting onto the glass.
I shoot tons and tons of film, but sometimes I need or want digital! Especially for lowlight situations or times when ISO needs to be swapped. I own four film backs, but there are times I want a simpler system
Thanks for you very comprehensive explanation. Will it be possible to explain how to develop Hasselblad files on Focus an the way to apply digital correction to old lenses from C - CF - and CFE ? Thanks 😌
@@TypewriterChicago Most of lenses are far from being perfect even modern Hasselblad ones. Chromatic aberration is an issue with some lenses. Digital correction are performed in the new lenses automatically, but in the old lenses it requiere to do it manually. As far as I know Phocus has the tools to do so. Try to enlarge the images 100% and look at the edges where is transition between dark and light areas. Any way thank for sharing you experience with Hasselblad.
@@julioestebanperezescudero6246 Hey 👋 It’s a simple setting in the right hand menu. Under adjust -> lens corrections. You need to know the lens name, aperture (not transmitted to the back when shooting) and a rough estimate of distance to subject. Then it applies lens corrections to the scene. I use this with xpan lenses and it works brilliantly for fringing and chromatic aberration. Hope this helps. 👍
Thanks Lucas this video is BRILLIANT and thankfully explains things quickly and easily. I have the exact same setup as you (I mostly shoot film), but I invested in one of these digi backs and I had been wondering about how to use Live View mode - principally to help with critical focus - this explains it superbly (like you I've never used the camera that comes with the modern digi back). One thing I did wonder though... If I'm shooting with flash I normally trigger a flash unit via a cable from the lens port. But I like the idea of using the electronic shutter.... Any idea how you might trigger a flash if you are using the inbuilt electronic shutter? One other thing... Although I generally shoot RAW files if I'm shooting digital photography, I would love a way to import the Hassie RAW files into CaptureOne rather than using Hassie's Phocus software (it just helps with workflow to only have one system open at a time). As this back produces huge 50mp files I've been shooting in jpg mode as these are easily transferable into C1 and seem to have at least plenty of lattitude. But can you offer any advice about shooting tethered with this back into Capture1? One final, final thing. I have recently sent my camera off to be calibrated in order to work with both digi and film backs. This will hopefully make a big difference to accurate focussing I believe! 🙂
Hey Simon! First off, thank you! Glad you enjoyed and found this helpful. As far as digital flash, you would likely need to use the flash jacks under the CFV back. Below the screen is a little rubber flap that conceals a 35mm flash jack, as well as audio in and out. That would be used for live view, though you may have to fiddle with sync speeds as a focal plane or digital shutter (taken at the sensor) does not sync at all speeds. That's the glory of a leaf shutter. Using the lens shutter would be as usual with the PC sync. As far as tethering goes, I don't tether shoot so I wouldn't know. You can use the USB c cable the camera comes with to link to the computer and tether through the Hasselblad Phocus software. Also, you're getting calibrated? The sensor and the film back lie on the same plane, so you don't really have to modify focus between the two. But a good cla and focus check is always nice to have done.
@@TypewriterChicago Hi Lucas thanks for the reply, it's funny because technically the film back and the sensor are on the same film-plane but I have heard anecdotally that the digi back requires a tiny amount of shimming, and speaking over the phone with a Hassleblad technician (who trained with Hassleblad in Sweden), that's what they do when they set up the cameras, they shim them to get exact focus. Anyway we'll see what happens. Just had a look below the screen and seen the ports you are talking about (again I didn't know that info - so thanks for that), There's a flash in and flash out, I'm guessing it's probably the flash out as that seems to have the right jack size but I'll experiment. As you say I'll most likely use the camera's leaf shutter, but it's always good to know these things. Here's another little point for you... if you carry the back around in a camera bag attached to the camera with the battery in place it can easily switch itself on and waste battery power. I haven't yet found a way of disabling the sensitive on/off button except to remove the battery.
@Simon Melber I've actually just used a sharpie on the first gen acute matte. As far as accidentally turning on, I haven't had that issue. You need to press and hold? I have heard of people having focus problems with the earlier CFV backs because the sensor was not aligned properly with the film plane. I have not had that issue at all. If you shim the back to accommodate the digital back, you will not be able to switch to film.
I don’t know any one had this issue before, but when I press my 500cm shutter button, my CFV II does not record anymore. It used to show me the pictures after pressing the shutter bottom, but not anymore, it doesn’t have any damages. I don’t know anyone had this issue like me.
wait, you forgot one thing, these digital back sensors are 6x4.5 cm in size, so you need a viewfinder mask for the 500/200/2000 V series cameras, as the viewing system on these is optimised for the 6x6 film negative!!
I didn't touch on the masks, though I thought I showed off the lines I drew on the screen? I did mention it was crop 645 and someone else commented about my lines
I believe this video covers that as well. Spent a while on the CM to demo how those functions carry over to the digital back. The back will them display a timer after you reach one second of exposure.
Did you not get a viewfinder mask for 6x6 with the back? I'm pretty sure I saw someone who had it. Maybe it's an accessory thing you have to get separately. Great video. I have a 500C/M also with the 80 and a 150/4. Going to start looking for a 40 or 50 to closer match the 80mm on 6x6. I'm gonna have to sell off some land to afford this, but, "life is short and if you don't stop to look around once in a while, you're gonna miss it" -Ferris Bueller
I really wish they made a square full sensor that covers the whole 6x6 area... wouldn't have to be super high es, something like a 60mp would be fine... but I guess it would be extremely expensive..
@@TypewriterChicago Well the PhaseOne backs are close too b- the 'problem' ist that when you use them for a square crop you'll end up with a much, much smaller sensor area compared to 6x6 film.
A 6x6 digital sensor never existed and probably will newer exist. In the past there were square digital backs for Hasselblad C cameras but it was 37mmx37mm. I guess that even cropped to 33x33 square the CFVII 50C back should ourperform the older 37x37 back.
Hi Lucas, besides rolling shutter effect, what are your experiences shooting videos on this setup? I'm thinking of getting this for filming human subjects and not high speed objects
I think a lot of thoughts about that, and will be using it for a video shoot in the next two weeks. I'll also be making a full behind the scenes video for how I personally make videos, and how the hasselblad handled the task.
An overlay mask for V System is delivered with the 907x. And if you want to see the full 6x6 screen with 33x44 lines Hasselblad sells an Acute Mat C screen with lines.
@@jean-claudemuller3199 The screen with the lines they sell is very expensive, and the overlay mask is actually a sticker. I suppose you could avoid peeling off the backing, but you'd be looking through a piece of clear plastic then. Since I switch a lot between film and digital, and spent all my budget on the back, the sharpie marker was the best bet.
I purchased mine from B&H photo, you can purchase through any major camera retailer though, including the hasselblad shop. It does do 2.5k video, I believe I mentioned that in the video. It's not excellent, and there's a rolling shutter issue. I'd recommend not getting this for video capability, but if you do shoot video use a tripod. If you'd like, I can take sample video on the Hasselblad and post it!
With this back does this turn a 500c/m into a digital type film camera where you expose using a meter on back ? If not how do you expose it with this digital back ?
The reason is no one is spending that much for the back for an older 500 series. 2 the lack of weather sealing limits this back tremendously. Super slow and no histogram unless it was updated in firmware
I can partially agree. All hasselblads are going to be slow though, speed comes with practice and familiarity. Buy a back now and it's already updated with histogram, mine was. And weather sealing? Yeah it's a problem, but I never payed attention. I've used this camera in rainstorms, snowstorms, dropped it in sand, mud, dirt, it's been fine. Haven't done any of that with the digital back though! So I agree on that front, I'd be hesitant, but if it were my only camera and it was raining I'd probably use it anyway.
Yeah, it was kind of a lazy video. typewriterchicago.com/digital The first five images are the CFV and many of the others as well but it's tricky to point out. I use it a LOT for product shoots. The main image on my home page is a crop from the CFV as well. The four after the neon sign, and the green and cream typewriter are CFV as well.
To be fair it’s 50mp so you can crop to any aspect and still have enough detail. Most people print at 300dpi so you have to downres for most standard sizes. So it’s pretty flexible without turning it on it’s side.
Ok, that’s not the end of the world. Any way to shoot vertical without turning the whole camera? I know I could get an RZ but it’s not as simplified as this lol.
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Thank you, your presentation is spot on . As a life long photographer which includes many years w/500 CM . I have been a bit intimidated w/using my 907 50 & adapting it to my 500CM body . . as well a using the 907 w/its lens adapter ( quite a few steps ) & my older Hasselblad lens . I'm not as fast a user at 76 as I was "back in the day" . Again Thank You .
this is the best explanation I have seen, many thanks.
Thank you for making this vid. Have had the 907x and CFV for a while now and had no idea you could do Live View or electronic shutter with my 500CM. Makes focusing and composing way easier due to the crop. Really helpful!!
This is a great video, and answers a lot of questions I've had. Thank you!
Thanks for your very clear description of the system. I'm currently a film only shooter, but might give this a try.
oh and thank you for this excellent video - I've not seen any overvlew like yours anywhere
I have the 907 system, love it. I had kept my lenses from the film years, I have been using them.....
I love seeing the camera that I bought back in 1973 still has a use today. FYI...I still have that camera and it still works. I was working digital on a Hasselblad back in the 90's using the E7 from MegaVision(to be honest...I know it was MegaVision. The model...not so sure). That process was painful in that the camera was always tethered and it took a while from when the camera clicked, to get the image on the computer. A painful process back then but it was all we had. As for the options today like you show in your video...I am surprised the image is not a square. I wonder why Hasselblad chose this route? Love live the Hasselblad.💓
Hi, great video. Thanks.
I think the mirror is "slapping" on top on the opening. Maybe its a good idea to check the sealing in the body.
BR.
Just had it serviced by Dave Odess
Thank you Lucas for your excellent video. It is truly the first one out there of its kind. I have seen a lot of video which bad mouth the old v lenses calling them old and inferior to the modern design. In my experience there is nothing wrong with these lenses. I get incredible photos on film using them. It is nice to hear that someone can get excellent results with this back on the V system. I think that your video just convince me to take another look at the back and possible get if for my 503cx
What this is an elegant solution to using a digital back on an analogue camera. HOWEVER, it is not correct to say that it is the 'same' as any other off-the-shelf medium format digital system you can buy. There are obvious compromises in operation (e.g. no autofocus, no IBIS, not even coupled automatic exposure), but even more important is that the sensor size is SIGNIFICANTLY smaller than even 645 film and even most digital back sensors currently available. That means that even the widest rectalinear corrected lens for the Hasselblad V series that is still widely available (the 40mm distagon) has a focal length equivalent in 35mm terms of...35mm. That is literally as wideangle as it will go and makes this a poor (and expensive) choice for anyone needing more wideangle capability....
You have attached the pro lens shade upside down.
If you look closely at the front of the pro-shade, you will notice slot. This is for inserting masks for longer lenses. Of the shade is upside down, the masks will drop out. 😁
The purchasing of Ernst Wildi's Hasselblad Manuel is a worthy investment.
There is also a slot midway for thinner gell filters. Im aware its upside down, it is intentional. Makes it easier for me to hand hold focus, otherwise the rails are in my way
i had a p25+ a decade ago. the images were so beautiful w/ my 503cx. but some of the big caveats for me when shooting portraits (since that's what i primarily do) were just having to actuate the winder for every single shot.
i switched back to my canon 5d3 for primary until 2019 when I got into the fuji 50s. it was nice and a lot easier to use, worked fantastic w/ portraits, but highland and shadow recovery weren't as good as the p25+ surprisingly.
but still, i can't believe that nobody is making a 6x6 sensor.
Great video! Thank you. If I could afford it, I'd say I'd wait for a 6x6 sensor before picking up a digital back. But like you say, the detail is plenty even in a cropped 3.29x3.29.
Exactly! And when i need that 6x6, i can just shoot film!
@@TypewriterChicago Exactly! The crop factor for field of view and light and depth of field are things I would want to avoid when switching between film and digital on my 500 C/M. I've used this camera for 19 years and relearning it with this cropped digital back would be fun! But also kind of a bummer.
Also, seriously great video. Thank you so much.
@@theatyhannington depth of field and field of view are my two major sticking points, but it's still larger than full frame! I use it for all my professional and personal still work. I've got a second (somewhat unpopular) video using it for closeup product photos for fun! But thank you! Glad you enjoyed this and found it helpful
“I shouldn’t put that face town” *spits on the sensor*
a small part of me died right there 😅
but otherwise great overview of this system, thank you 🙏🏼
Thx for the great hands-on video! The point what keeps me from buying (ok, saving up some €€€ 1st) it is the question, will my old lenses perform on a digitial sensor with this high resolution? There are C, CF and CFE lenses out there and I would assume the older the lens, the less good is the quality. And then cropping becomes less and less an option. Therefore, I just filled my fridge/freezer with some roles of Ilford Delta 100 and 400.
Valid question, those old lenses are great! Some are better than others for sure. The 50mm CF is ever so slightly sharper than the C, and is the sharpest lens I've ever used. Beats the absolute $h!t out of the Nikkor 50mm AFD which people shoot professionally! The 80mm is your run of the mill lens, both C and CF. Can't really afford the CF, but the C is plenty sharp. The 150mm is cheap but also incredibly sharp. You see how they perform on fine grain film, they're excellent.
Try a Zeiss Planar 100mm f3.5, in any of its Hasselblad versions and your worries about lens quality will go away.
@@chrishb7074 I have the CF version.
also to swivel the camera to the portrait orientation, a mounting bracket which fits onto the dovetail plate on the bottom was created, to swing the v system cameras, so maybe this will be a good idea.
Just to answer the question on how the camera knows when you are taking shots, the clear thing about the digital back is that it is trying to use features on the 500cm camera, the little pin that sticks out at the button right hand side of the rear door was used to prevent you from taking pictures with dark slides in the film back, but it is now the interface that links the shutter button and the digital back.
You will see when you press the shutter that silver pin will pop out and it used to go into hole on the film back which is covered by the dark slide when it is inserted, now it just go into the digital back which triggers it much like a sync cable
@@williamchen5832 yes, but not exactly. It's a little more complex, the pin also comes out when you put the camera in mirror lockup, however the digital back won't recognize it until you press the shutter button as well. I have a feeling the sensor in the back registers two distances on the pin separately.
Your good with the crop ? Seems to me, that would be a disadvantage to shooting film and getting a true 6X6 cm image optimized for Hasselblad glass.
I really love this, but the digital back is quite expensive..
I do however like the idea you have the iconic design, but can change backs from film to digital. NOW that's what I call a camera.
So if I prefer to shoot with black and white film, I can do that. But if I need to go digital, I can do that as well. And above all, you don't change the great iconic design...which I like a lot.
FYI the 907x cameras come with a mask you can put on your focus screen so you don't have to draw on them.
the mask I got was adhesive and opaque, decided I didn't want that on my camera.
Hello there, I've own a Hasselblad 500CM since December 1980 and a year ago I got the CFV digital back, lately I've been trying to shoot tether using the camera's FOCUS software, but haven't been able to shoot through the computer using the button on the screen, I can only do it pressing the shutter release button on the camera, Any ideas on how to do it through the software? Thanks, by the way, this video is really great and informative.
Haha great video! But yeah you shouldn’t take the back off your camera when the back is on because it attracts dust when electrically charged, you shouldn’t put it face down on a table and you definitely shouldn’t blow on a sensor or lens with your mouth. Even though we can’t see it the air you blow out is full of water particles. You don’t want to know moisture into these places. Fungus and all that u know
great video. What do you do if you want to shoot in portrait format?can you turn the digital back?
Unfortunately no, you need to turn the camera. A prism finder is helpful in that case!
Great video! I assume you can set the ISO to the same as your film and get the picture just the way you want it with the digital back and then simply switch to the film back and take the picture on film. Would be great to see if that results in the same correct exposure.
I imagine it would, though an unserviced mechanical shutter may cause variation. It'll also come down to the accuracy of the ISO sensitivity which I'd assume is just fine.
Thanks a lot! One question, is it also possible to use the 503 CX with a digital back?
The back is compatible with ALL v system cameras, including third party technical cameras.
@@TypewriterChicago Great, Thanks a lot!
good video, but as per the manual for the CF backs, PREPARE everything first, THEN take the protection cover off the sensor!, as you NEVER want to damage the IR filter glass in front of the ccd/cmos sensor!, and this prevents dust getting onto the glass.
Lord me and my bank account did not need to see this!! WOW
But but ... why not square 6x6?
I shoot tons and tons of film, but sometimes I need or want digital! Especially for lowlight situations or times when ISO needs to be swapped. I own four film backs, but there are times I want a simpler system
Thanks for you very comprehensive explanation.
Will it be possible to explain how to develop Hasselblad files on Focus an the way to apply digital correction to old lenses from C - CF - and CFE ?
Thanks 😌
I don't use Phocus, and I've never had to correct lenses? Not sure why you'd need to, they're wonderful
@@TypewriterChicago
Most of lenses are far from being perfect even modern Hasselblad ones. Chromatic aberration is an issue with some lenses. Digital correction are performed in the new lenses automatically, but in the old lenses it requiere to do it manually.
As far as I know Phocus has the tools to do so.
Try to enlarge the images 100% and look at the edges where is transition between dark and light areas.
Any way thank for sharing you experience with Hasselblad.
@@julioestebanperezescudero6246
Hey 👋
It’s a simple setting in the right hand menu. Under adjust -> lens corrections. You need to know the lens name, aperture (not transmitted to the back when shooting) and a rough estimate of distance to subject. Then it applies lens corrections to the scene. I use this with xpan lenses and it works brilliantly for fringing and chromatic aberration. Hope this helps. 👍
@@jamesdrew2846 Thank you very much!
Automatic Chromatic aberration correction of C CF lenses in Phocus is very efficient as well as vignetting and distorsion
great video! thank you!!
Great video, thanks a lot! Do you know if there is any shutter-lag when shooting? Wondering if that setup would work for shooting moving objects.
Camera? Cool!
Thanks Lucas this video is BRILLIANT and thankfully explains things quickly and easily. I have the exact same setup as you (I mostly shoot film), but I invested in one of these digi backs and I had been wondering about how to use Live View mode - principally to help with critical focus - this explains it superbly (like you I've never used the camera that comes with the modern digi back). One thing I did wonder though... If I'm shooting with flash I normally trigger a flash unit via a cable from the lens port. But I like the idea of using the electronic shutter.... Any idea how you might trigger a flash if you are using the inbuilt electronic shutter? One other thing... Although I generally shoot RAW files if I'm shooting digital photography, I would love a way to import the Hassie RAW files into CaptureOne rather than using Hassie's Phocus software (it just helps with workflow to only have one system open at a time). As this back produces huge 50mp files I've been shooting in jpg mode as these are easily transferable into C1 and seem to have at least plenty of lattitude. But can you offer any advice about shooting tethered with this back into Capture1? One final, final thing. I have recently sent my camera off to be calibrated in order to work with both digi and film backs. This will hopefully make a big difference to accurate focussing I believe! 🙂
Hey Simon! First off, thank you! Glad you enjoyed and found this helpful. As far as digital flash, you would likely need to use the flash jacks under the CFV back. Below the screen is a little rubber flap that conceals a 35mm flash jack, as well as audio in and out. That would be used for live view, though you may have to fiddle with sync speeds as a focal plane or digital shutter (taken at the sensor) does not sync at all speeds. That's the glory of a leaf shutter. Using the lens shutter would be as usual with the PC sync. As far as tethering goes, I don't tether shoot so I wouldn't know. You can use the USB c cable the camera comes with to link to the computer and tether through the Hasselblad Phocus software. Also, you're getting calibrated? The sensor and the film back lie on the same plane, so you don't really have to modify focus between the two. But a good cla and focus check is always nice to have done.
@@TypewriterChicago Hi Lucas thanks for the reply, it's funny because technically the film back and the sensor are on the same film-plane but I have heard anecdotally that the digi back requires a tiny amount of shimming, and speaking over the phone with a Hassleblad technician (who trained with Hassleblad in Sweden), that's what they do when they set up the cameras, they shim them to get exact focus. Anyway we'll see what happens. Just had a look below the screen and seen the ports you are talking about (again I didn't know that info - so thanks for that), There's a flash in and flash out, I'm guessing it's probably the flash out as that seems to have the right jack size but I'll experiment. As you say I'll most likely use the camera's leaf shutter, but it's always good to know these things. Here's another little point for you... if you carry the back around in a camera bag attached to the camera with the battery in place it can easily switch itself on and waste battery power. I haven't yet found a way of disabling the sensitive on/off button except to remove the battery.
Oh and one last thing... I've been searching for the new (brighter), pre-marked focussing screen but everywhere seems to be sold out at the moment!
@Simon Melber I've actually just used a sharpie on the first gen acute matte. As far as accidentally turning on, I haven't had that issue. You need to press and hold?
I have heard of people having focus problems with the earlier CFV backs because the sensor was not aligned properly with the film plane. I have not had that issue at all. If you shim the back to accommodate the digital back, you will not be able to switch to film.
So, there wasn't a way to measure light with it? you'd have to guess all the time or use an external meter?
Thank you for this ❤
definitely love it! thank you!
Can you buy the CFV 100c (or 50c) digital back by itself, or would you have to get the full 907X & CFV 100c together in order to use it on a 500c/m?
You need to buy it as a kit sadly.
I don’t know any one had this issue before, but when I press my 500cm shutter button, my CFV II does not record anymore. It used to show me the pictures after pressing the shutter bottom, but not anymore, it doesn’t have any damages. I don’t know anyone had this issue like me.
Best video ❤ thank you
wait, you forgot one thing, these digital back sensors are 6x4.5 cm in size, so you need a viewfinder mask for the 500/200/2000 V series cameras, as the viewing system on these is optimised for the 6x6 film negative!!
I didn't touch on the masks, though I thought I showed off the lines I drew on the screen? I did mention it was crop 645 and someone else commented about my lines
Thank you for sharing. I have a hasselblad 500c and I‘m wondering whether 500c support this digital back.
It works on all v mount cameras
@@TypewriterChicago Thank you for your reply.
It does - I own a 500C and the 907x. Cheers. :)
Use mirror lock up combo with T long exposure. Speaker end up spending all the time on 500cm
I believe this video covers that as well. Spent a while on the CM to demo how those functions carry over to the digital back. The back will them display a timer after you reach one second of exposure.
Did you not get a viewfinder mask for 6x6 with the back? I'm pretty sure I saw someone who had it. Maybe it's an accessory thing you have to get separately. Great video. I have a 500C/M also with the 80 and a 150/4. Going to start looking for a 40 or 50 to closer match the 80mm on 6x6. I'm gonna have to sell off some land to afford this, but, "life is short and if you don't stop to look around once in a while, you're gonna miss it" -Ferris Bueller
I just got my 907x 50c and it has a viewfinder mask inside to use. I will make one in square myself though, as i'd like to shoot it in square as well.
Hi! Do you know if that back fits on 553elx? Thanks❤
Hi can you tell me how much does the digital back cost???
You can easily find a cost by looking it up, it may vary by location due to shipping and taxes. They retail around 6k
Is there any difference in picture quality when using the 500cm rather than newer front?
Can you only mount the back horizontally?
Yes
I really wish they made a square full sensor that covers the whole 6x6 area... wouldn't have to be super high es, something like a 60mp would be fine... but I guess it would be extremely expensive..
It likely would, I'd love a 6x6. The H6D is pretty close i believe. But if I NEED that space, I'd just shoot film
@@TypewriterChicago Well the PhaseOne backs are close too b- the 'problem' ist that when you use them for a square crop you'll end up with a much, much smaller sensor area compared to 6x6 film.
A 6x6 digital sensor never existed and probably will newer exist. In the past there were square digital backs for Hasselblad C cameras but it was 37mmx37mm. I guess that even cropped to 33x33 square the CFVII 50C back should ourperform the older 37x37 back.
this work with a hasselbad 500c ?
Hi, How did you release the CFV using the PM90?
Same as with film, the 90 has a button on the side that allows you to unlatch the back.
Hi Lucas, besides rolling shutter effect, what are your experiences shooting videos on this setup? I'm thinking of getting this for filming human subjects and not high speed objects
I think a lot of thoughts about that, and will be using it for a video shoot in the next two weeks. I'll also be making a full behind the scenes video for how I personally make videos, and how the hasselblad handled the task.
How did you cleanly draw those crop lines on the focus screen?
VERY carefully
An overlay mask for V System is delivered with the 907x.
And if you want to see the full 6x6 screen with 33x44 lines Hasselblad sells an Acute Mat C screen with lines.
@@jean-claudemuller3199 The screen with the lines they sell is very expensive, and the overlay mask is actually a sticker. I suppose you could avoid peeling off the backing, but you'd be looking through a piece of clear plastic then. Since I switch a lot between film and digital, and spent all my budget on the back, the sharpie marker was the best bet.
I have a haselblad 500 c ,have also all the lenses,where can I buy an appropriate digital back? Can I do filming videos?Please.
I purchased mine from B&H photo, you can purchase through any major camera retailer though, including the hasselblad shop. It does do 2.5k video, I believe I mentioned that in the video. It's not excellent, and there's a rolling shutter issue. I'd recommend not getting this for video capability, but if you do shoot video use a tripod. If you'd like, I can take sample video on the Hasselblad and post it!
This digital back cannot be bought alone, it's part of the 907X camera that works with XCD lenses like the X1D cameras.
With this back does this turn a 500c/m into a digital type film camera where you expose using a meter on back ? If not how do you expose it with this digital back ?
You expose like you would with film.
@@TypewriterChicago do you expose different with film than digital ? Digital is using meter
The reason is no one is spending that much for the back for an older 500 series.
2 the lack of weather sealing limits this back tremendously. Super slow and no histogram unless it was updated in firmware
I can partially agree. All hasselblads are going to be slow though, speed comes with practice and familiarity. Buy a back now and it's already updated with histogram, mine was. And weather sealing? Yeah it's a problem, but I never payed attention. I've used this camera in rainstorms, snowstorms, dropped it in sand, mud, dirt, it's been fine. Haven't done any of that with the digital back though! So I agree on that front, I'd be hesitant, but if it were my only camera and it was raining I'd probably use it anyway.
Chunky eyepiece, bugger!
You shouldn't blow on sensor too
why not just use this in live mode all the time?
LV is really not convenient and requires the use of the tripod to be efficient
Dear Santa…..
no samples? bye
Yeah, it was kind of a lazy video. typewriterchicago.com/digital
The first five images are the CFV and many of the others as well but it's tricky to point out. I use it a LOT for product shoots. The main image on my home page is a crop from the CFV as well. The four after the neon sign, and the green and cream typewriter are CFV as well.
As I see it’s not useful for portraits , only landscape mode , failed product imo
I covered portrait mode in the video
To be fair it’s 50mp so you can crop to any aspect and still have enough detail. Most people print at 300dpi so you have to downres for most standard sizes. So it’s pretty flexible without turning it on it’s side.
@@jamesdrew2846 CFV 50II 50MP + Hasselblad 503CX? Nice bit of kit, mate
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Fu…ed !!!
Are you still limited to only 1/500 max shutter speed?
Yes you are, unless you chose to use the electronic shutter
Ok, that’s not the end of the world. Any way to shoot vertical without turning the whole camera? I know I could get an RZ but it’s not as simplified as this lol.
@vc6218 nope, try getting a prism
@@vc6218 also, get a 2000 series hasselblad if you want faster shutter speeds.
@@TypewriterChicago I would but no repair shop will service it!!
Hi! Do you know if that back fits on 553elx? Thanks❤
It should! It has a menu setting for the ELX models.