I have always wanted a Hasselblad. I did shoot medium format years ago with the Bronica SQ-A. Amazing camera. All your videos are so very helpful. I for one can attest to the fact that I have learned so much. Thank you very much.
Beautiful setup! Many older cameras are such great fun. And most often with a quality of construction, feeling and sound that no modern cameras can match. Waiting to save up to a CFVII 50C to use with my 500CM that I have used for the last 17 years.
Yes, please do demonstrate the back on a 200 series body. Super demonstration as always. Delighted I never sold my 203FE or 205FCC as now this back will give them a second life.
Hi Math .. I just got my 907x + 100v .. and I am doing 'reverse viewing' .. you have made a great video with lots of useful info. I do have one question - how does the leaf shutter and the sensor sync. On the native XCD lens it's 'easy'. But with a 70 year old lens, no signalling between old lens, old body and just a mechanical coupling, I am hoping you can explain. I have a 503CW just like yours (Leica M and Nikons Z systems) .... and gets a kick out of shooting this hybrid, going thru the ritual is great fun in the streets. THANK YOU. And great informative videos all round.
Hi, Im trying to decide between Hasselblad 503cw with 645 back and 90 degree prism finder with metering and Mamiya 645 Pro TL With prism and metering. How much would I be losing in optics if anything? I know there is a price difference. Also which do think would be more reliable and easier to get fixed? Thanks
With the lens features you forgot one important thing, the orange line, this denotes speeds where the baffle that protects the film CLOSES before the shutter blades do!!- you MUST HOLD DOWN the shutter button until you hear the shutter close, then the baffle closes correctly ( after the exposure is COMPLETED, not beforehand).
Hi Stellus, yes you have plenty of options to shoot Carl Zeiss lenses on Hasselblad X cameras (including the 907X CFV II 50c). Let me make two examples. First of all, there are various excellent Carl Zeiss lenses for the (film) Hasselblad 500-series cameras which fit well with adapter on Hasselblad X cameras. Second, there are excellent Zeiss lenses, e.g., the OTUS series, for Nikon-F and other brands which also can be shot with a suitable adapter on Hasselblad X cameras. Of course, you will shoot in most of these constellations with the electronic shutter on Hasselblad X cameras. But it works well, I've done it in the past and will continue to use Zeiss lenses on my X2D or 907X.
This video helped me setup my Hasselblad 503CW with the CFV II 50c. However, I noticed when I use the Waist-Level Viewfinder for focus, using a film-back, it's tack sharp, but using the digital back, it backfouces a bit. So, I have to use the liveview option to focus for this setup.
Hello Math, I own the CFV II 50C fr a little more than a year, I've been trying to find a tutorial about how to tether the back mounted on a 500CM but haven't been able to find anything on the topic, I even watched the Karl Taylor Focus tutorial on the Hasselblad website, but basically the tutorial is about how to use the software. I would appreciate if you have any tips on how to do this. Thanks!!
Hallo, ich bin jetzt vom Vorgänger CFV-50c auf das CFV II 50-c umgesteiegen. Ich hab mich gegen das 100 MP entshcieden, denn die Qualität der 50 MP ist mehr als ausreichend für meine Anforderungen. Ich freue mich sehr darauf, und nicht zuletzt dein Video hat mich letztendlich überzeugt, diesen Schritt zu gehen. Ich habe zudem auch eine 903 SWC, für die das CFV II ja auch voll umfänglich geeignet ist. Danke für deine immer sehr schönen und wissenswerten Videos rund ums Fotografieren - Maximilian
Very cool video, thanks. I had 907X for a bit, and tried using it with the old 80mm Planar and 150mm Sonnars, and was generally underwhelmed. One thing was just the massive “crop”, and the other was that the “native” digital lenses were on a different level in comparison. FInally, the best combo in terms of pleasing results were the old Hasselblad lenses used with the film back loaded with Portra :).
Thanks for your comment. You are right that not all vintage lenses carry over the huge resolution of modern camera sensors. That's why I chose the Zeiss Distagon 40mm f/4 FLE, this lens really can deal with the 50MP of the Hasselblad sensor, it is a super sharp lens.
@@mathphotographer I found that the 40mm CF FLE wasn’t all that great when shot wide open with a digital back. The 40mm that’s made for the digital world is the CFE model. The center was/is supposed to be sharper than the CF. I own the CF so I can’t confirm.
Been working with medium format Hasselblad since mid 70's, would shoot on nothing else. We even brought into the CFV 16 buying two. The problem is that there is no auto focus with this camera, which slows the process down. We also use the digital backs on Sinar P2 studio camera, as this CFV 50 could be used. One of those digital chips has started to break down, pixels missing etc and Hasselblad do not repair them. We still have our V systems but also compliment it with a full Nikon D800 series system and lenses. We added to the V system when photographers were dumping their lenses at a fraction of the price. Nikon D850 with their pro lens has similar quality but have more to offer and quicker to use. Would go with the 907x option so that the back can be expanded later with H lenses. An adapter can be purchased for the 907x for the V system lenses. We feel that there will soon be a CFV 100 as their recent update on the other camera being issued.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences, insightful! And I fully agree, we will coming year see a CFV100 with the same sensor as the X2D. And we will see the X2D becoming better (in particular on autofocus) via firmware upgrades.
Thank you Math for this very useful explanation. I Will try it myself in the near future, and feel confident that I will avoid many mistakes, because you explained everything so well.
thx for the video. Wide-angle landscapes with the lenses stepped down are one thing, but close focus, wide aperture shots are what should show us the real capabilities and failures of this camera and digital back combination because in such scenarios every misalignment of just fractions of milimeters will result in unsharp images. Film is much more forgiving in such circumstances.
I had a 503cx with all sorts of nice lenses, and your video almost made me want to buy these back and add the digital back. But the small sensor size is a no-go for me. :( To combine classic photography with modern technology, I‘ll buy the SL2 and put my M-lenses on it.
Hi Matt - great video - many thanks for taking the time and sharing it. Since over a year I am using the CFV II 50c as well with the 907x but also with my legacy 501cm. I would be interested why you seem to prefer the electronic shutter towards the leaf shutter (or was that a wrong immpression of mine?) I prefer the leaf shutter for two reasons: firstly I am typically not using a tripod and find the rolling shutter effect quite significant in the CFV, even at very limited movements. Secondly I find the locking of the mirror for the live view a bit clumsy (which is however maybe because the 501cm is missing the respective button of the 503 cw). But even IF I would use tripod and a 503 I am not sure see the upside of an electronic shutter (apart from HDR and speeds above 1/500, obviously). Thanks for another great video and best regards from Basel, Adrian
It will be very nice if Hasselblad could implement manual input from a menu telling the digital back the lens used aperture and focus distance in this way all digital corrections could be implemented automatically on the final file. Don’t you think it could be easily done by a software update?
Great video as always. I have a Hasselblad 500 C/M with a Hasselblad CF back and the 100mm 3.5 lens. Am loving the quality of that ccd back, the images are almost "analog".
Hi Math! nice Video, like that combination. I remember a schoolfriend had a Hasselblad, which was only outpaced by the Linhof of our teacher who did run the photography course at our grammar school. Sentimental memories, guess it was some 45 years ago! :-) Greetings from sunny Frankfurt am Main - Andreas
The crop factor from the CFV II 50c to a full frame sensor is 0.79 - which is the crop factor you need to apply to focal length and aperture to get the corresponding full frame equivalent parameters. It is always 0.79x for all lenses which have an image circle large enough to fully cover the 44x33mm sensor of the CFV II 50c.
@@mathphotographer Thank you for responding, but that's not what I'm asking. Perhaps I didn't ask correctly. I am aware (from your videos) of the .79 conversion factor comparing the 44x33mm format to a full frame 24x36mm format. What I'm asking is the conversion factor comparing Hasselblad Zeiss lenses on a 500 series body when using the CFV50 back. Effectively comparing the 500 series 6x6cm format to the CFV50 44x33mm format. Each Zeiss lens will become longer in their new effective focal length, and that I the conversion factor I am inquiring about. Thank you.
Very informative video, thanks for sharing. I would like to know if eventually you can tell the digital back or Focus the lens in use to implement corrections. I have noticed that there is some longitudinal chromatic aberration, can it be fixed later in post?
You will enjoy the shooting experience big time! But maybe wait a bit with purchasing the CFV II 50c because Hasselblad will likely update the digital back with the new sensor of the Hasselblad X2D, so give it some time before you spend so much money :)
just let me ask you something. Can you use leaf shutter and viewfinder at the same time or do you need to go into electronic mode? Just wondering if it's possible to shoot portraits that way without suffering from slow sensor read speed.
Love the detail in your videos. I want that CFV II 50c pretty bad for my Hasselblads. I have a 503cx and a mint condition 500cm. But my Leica purchasing habits keep getting in the way. ;-)
Ha! Difficult situation, where to spend your money on, Leica or Hasselblad ;) Why don't you try to get a good mint condition CFV II 50c in the secondary market? If you have a chance to check the sensor before you buy the digital back, it should be ok. Your 503cx and 500cm would certainly love to be married to a digital back ;)
Many thanks - I like your RUclips name, "concerned but not yet alarmed" can be applied to many things going on in the world :) Nice choice of a RUclips name.
Great video Math, very extensive and detailed, and I would rate it 99/100 cause there is a tiny slip of the tongue at 8:02 ;-) It's not 19 feet but 19 inch ! (Yes, I pay attention to your detailed explanations) Anyways, I love these Hasselblad modular setups. Thanks for sharing and a very nice weekend
I made a comment in the infobox below the video on my slip of the tongue :) to get it corrected. Thanks for paying so much attention to details, improves my presentation :)
That looks like a wonderful combination. I guess the corner sharpness you get on the digital sensor is due to the significantly bigger image circle for the lens. I’m so tempted lately to get an Hasselblad. Out of curiosity, in case you have something similar, what would you consider to give better image quality between an X2D-100 and an H4D-60? I’m asking because I have seen some second hand H series being sold for less than an X2D.
Yes, its the bigger image circle, spot-on comment. Means, you only use the juicy center of the lens. And on your question, I would always prefer the X2D-100c. The only cameras that can top an X2D-100c are the H6D-100c and the Phase One IQ4 but the difference does not justify the so much higher price tag.
If your lens does not have an F setting, you set the lens to B (bulb), and then engage the shutter and lock it open with the lever on the shutter release.
Hi Hassan, SC Loop is correct, you can work with Bulb if you do not have an F setting. I did not try the film back on my 907X camera body, interesting idea, going the other direction. Let me think about that.
Thank you for this video Math, I only discovered your channel last night and binge watched several videos. You go into great depth and detail and have wonderful knowledge and explain things very well. I have been using Hasselblad cameras professionally for many years and recently purchased a SWC/M. I would love to use a digital back with the SWC/M but many people say because of the Biogen lens being so close to the film plane digital backs do not work as well. What do you think Math?
This is a superb explanation and I’ll be watching it again and again. Have you had success with combining the digital back to the SWC or the 903 ? I haven’t really gotten the combination to work but I think it might be more about my lack of understanding the best combination of settings.
Thank you very much! I only tried it with this particular camera body but I see on RUclips that it also works with many other Hasselblad vintage camera bodies.
Hasselblad color is incredible. Do you see any difference between the analog lens and the leaf shutter lens? I am sure they are both beautiful in their own way. I assume the older lens will have an organic look to it? Thanks.
The older lenses provide a more vintage-type look. The Distagon 40mm f/4 is a super sharp lens that fully supports the 50MP resolution of the Hasselblad sensor. On the lens itself, it has a leaf shutter built-in but can also be used on camera bodies with a focal plane shutter (the green F setting on the lens). That makes the lens very versatile and does the trick for shooting with electronic shutter on the digital back.
Top tip if you are using the Hasselblad digital back - at all times the catch holding the back to any body including the 907x is at severe peril if pressed accidentally - even when raising or lowering the waist level viewfinder - the back will fall off!!!! If you drop a film back - and I have - its a cupla hundred to replace - if you drop the digi back it is several thousand!!!!!
Thanks Tony, I am fully with you. The MAMIYA RZ67 PRO II D was recently available in one of my favorite vintage camera stores ... I almost bought it but it is kind of impossible or super expensive to the the adapter plate for my Phase One IQ4, the fotoshop and I really tried to find the adapter, called Phase One and various other suppliers but it seems that if you want the adapter you can purchase it in the US and Asia but for an even higher price tag than the camera itself, really sad.
@@mathphotographer Hi Math, Yes the Mamiya adapter are crazy expensive .Silvestri make a Mamiya RZ adapter, but you have to use a cable to connect the lens to back. Thanks .Great video
I am very surprised that when you mentioned shooting landscapes, you focused on infinity at f8 for this video. You would have had a greater zone of focus, focusing with a 40mm if set at about 50ft, giving you a depth of field from about 19 and a half feet to infinity.I always check on the hyperfocal distance when focusing... this helps makes any foreground items of interest [ f any ] to be that bit sharper. Thumbs up though for producing a good video...
@@chakwong Sadly Bronica is gone. And it could be argued so is Mamiya. That is why it is quite sad to see when fans of Fujifilm or Hasselblad or whatever display hate online. We were all richer in the days when Bronica and all the others existed.
Bring a amateur photography hobbyist, I’m struggling to understand the idea of medium format look. Is it not the same when comparing to a good ff sensor with great lens?
Hi Matthew, its not exactly the same. There is some look coming from a different aspect ratio 4:3 compared to 3:2 on full frame sensors (36mm x 24mm) but you could achieve that medium format aspect ratio easily on full frame with a crop. The look really comes from the larger sensor size which provides various advantages. Having said that, via "equivalence" relations you can simulate with a full frame sensor a medium format look which, if you have not seen a lot of images from both types, is hard to distinguish from a genuine medium format sensor look. And yes, there is also a bit of a hype around "medium format look" ... the image is made by the photographer and not by the gear and some photos some talented people have shot with a cheap camera or even a smartphone might be better photos and express more than a lot of medium format photos :)
he is right that it is the photographer rather than the gear. medium format used to have a big quality improvement during film days, or early digital. now digital cameras have advanced into MF range.
Good video, but a correction: there are 5 components: lens, body,back, VIEWFINDER AND FOCUSING SCREEN; you missed the last two!!, as you can replace the VIEWFINDER with multiple options, prisms, metered prisms, sports finders and the like.
As what I saw the helicopter shows significant chromatic aberration. And because of the crop factor you will not get a as much wide-angle effect as with the 120-film. Maybe better results can be got today with a Fujifilm GFX-100. A comparison of the two cameras would be interesting.
Hasselblad's RAW software Phocus has very fine and efficient optical corrections of old C and F series Zeiss lenses. All vignetting, distorsion and CA is perfectly corrected. Caveat is that you have to document manually during shootings type of lens, aperture and focusing distance for each frame and enter them manually in Phocus. After RAW optical correction in Phocus I can confirm that on same shots only the very best C and F lenses have identical image quality compared to newest X series Hasselblad lenses. (40 FLE, 50 FLE, 100 3.5) and when pixel peeping even Superachromats like the 250 SA with finer detail than modern Hasselblad glass.
When best C lenses have quite as fine details than X lenses on the 50 Mpix sensor, contrast is always a bit less with the older glass. Here it becomes interesting for experienced photographers who know how to boost digitally contrast. It's easier and more flattering to boost contrast when it's a bit low than reducing contrast when it's natively too high.
You do not buy the digital back only. It comes in a combo with the Hasselblad 907X. The price I paid is the one on the official Hasselblad website, look at V system (the modern one, not the vintage one).
@@mathphotographer I’ve a 500C with a f2.8/80 lens. I am tempted to get the 907X, so that the 500C can shoot digital. Extends its economic life to 60+ years! I noticed you shot with the 40mm. With my 80mm, what is the focal length in 35mm terms? And how much a cropping? I wouldn’t get the full 50mp, would I?
@@chakwong Your lens focal length is the standard focal length for your camera which is about 50 mm focal length on the full frame 35mm cameras- your image size however is going to be smaller than your analog film images due to the size of this sensor. This sensor is a 50 MP sensors and you are using it all so your images are full 50MP resolution.
Nice video! The 907X is one of my photographic gear dreams, I'd love to have one to use with my 503cx... I've just learned from it a couple of new things about the usage of the CFV II 50c with the Hasselblad 500 V-series analog bodies I didn't know about - more precisely, regarding the electronic shutter. I previously thought that in order to do that, I'd have to set the shutter speed in the lens to "B(ulb)" and then either use the time exposure lock (which is absent in the 501cm and the 503cw) or a lockable shutter release cable in order to use Live View. I didn't know that if you set the shutter speed to "F(ocal plane shutter)" in CF(i,e) lenses and then the mirror lock-up you can do the same. On the other hand, if you use C lenses instead the "F" setting is not available, so only the first method for using the electronic shutter can be employed then. In that case, a 501cm or a 503cw becomes quite awkward to use with the electronic shutter (especially handheld), I imagine. Also, regarding the Zeiss CF lenses... You have the good fortune of being able to use one of the sharpest lenses in the lineup, the 40mm FLE Distagon is one of the best matched ones for use with such a high-res digital back, together with the 100mm Planar and the 250mm, 350mm Superachromats, followed closely by the 50mm FLE Distagon, the 120mm Makro-Planar and the 180mm Sonnar. The 60mm Distagon, the 80mm Planar and the 150mm Sonnar are not really on par with the CFV II 50c's pixel size, unless you are purposely looking for a soft, "vintage" look. Also, manual focusing accuracy is critical when shooting with this back - using the split-image prism focusing screen with the CFV framelines (and, if possible, a prism viewfinder as well) is a great help in that regard; otherwise, if you are willing to use the electronic shutter (or perhaps just the mirror lock-up?) you can use focus peaking in Live View.
Thanks a lot for your comprehensive comment, Pedro, and sharing your experience in the comments. I am really happy to hear that the video and explanations were useful. It is indeed a dream combo, shooting the CFV50c on these vintage cameras!
Would love to see examples shot with the 100mm f3.5. That lens has reputation as being one of the very best. I think all the Zeiss Hasselblad lenses are outstanding for their time though.
A bit of independence in opinions might be allowed :) I fully respect what other people have to say, that's why I also often reply to comments :) I hope besides the "modern attitude" which you called out (and I fully respect it) you got something useful out of the video from its true content ...
The crop factor from the CFV II 50c to a full frame sensor is 0.79 - which is the crop factor you need to apply to focal length and aperture to get the corresponding full frame equivalent parameters.
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by far the BEST and most detailed CFV II video on the internet, CHEERS!
Many thanks for the nice feedback!
I love how this company made their camera so modular. If I really get into photography I’d like to replicate a setup like this. Great video/camera!
I have always wanted a Hasselblad. I did shoot medium format years ago with the Bronica SQ-A. Amazing camera. All your videos are so very helpful. I for one can attest to the fact that I have learned so much. Thank you very much.
Beautiful setup! Many older cameras are such great fun. And most often with a quality of construction, feeling and sound that no modern cameras can match. Waiting to save up to a CFVII 50C to use with my 500CM that I have used for the last 17 years.
The setup is true fun and highly enjoyable when shooting with it :)
Yes, please do demonstrate the back on a 200 series body. Super demonstration as always. Delighted I never sold my 203FE or 205FCC as now this back will give them a second life.
Thanks Kathryn, I will definitely shoot the digital back on my 200-camera. There are so many things to try out :)
Thanks a lot! One question, is it also possible to use the 503 CX with a digital back?
Hi Math .. I just got my 907x + 100v .. and I am doing 'reverse viewing' .. you have made a great video with lots of useful info. I do have one question - how does the leaf shutter and the sensor sync. On the native XCD lens it's 'easy'. But with a 70 year old lens, no signalling between old lens, old body and just a mechanical coupling, I am hoping you can explain. I have a 503CW just like yours (Leica M and Nikons Z systems) .... and gets a kick out of shooting this hybrid, going thru the ritual is great fun in the streets. THANK YOU. And great informative videos all round.
You are the master of clarity.
Ha! Someone likes my explanations :) Many thanks, Alan.
Hi, Im trying to decide between Hasselblad 503cw with 645 back and 90 degree prism finder with metering and Mamiya 645 Pro TL
With prism and metering. How much would I be losing in optics if anything? I know there is a price difference. Also which do think would be more reliable and easier to get fixed? Thanks
With the lens features you forgot one important thing, the orange line, this denotes speeds where the baffle that protects the film CLOSES before the shutter blades do!!- you MUST HOLD DOWN the shutter button until you hear the shutter close, then the baffle closes correctly ( after the exposure is COMPLETED, not beforehand).
always a pleasure to watch your videos! keep up the good work!
interesting combo old and new!
Thank you Oliver, combining older gear with new technology is just a terrific experience.
Thankyou for a detailed explanation video
Quick question:
Do you know for 907X CFV II 50C any carl zeiss lenses available?
Hi Stellus, yes you have plenty of options to shoot Carl Zeiss lenses on Hasselblad X cameras (including the 907X CFV II 50c). Let me make two examples. First of all, there are various excellent Carl Zeiss lenses for the (film) Hasselblad 500-series cameras which fit well with adapter on Hasselblad X cameras. Second, there are excellent Zeiss lenses, e.g., the OTUS series, for Nikon-F and other brands which also can be shot with a suitable adapter on Hasselblad X cameras. Of course, you will shoot in most of these constellations with the electronic shutter on Hasselblad X cameras. But it works well, I've done it in the past and will continue to use Zeiss lenses on my X2D or 907X.
This digital magazine hasselblad workshop well Witherspoon hasselblad 553elx and 500cm???
Rangel
Thank you for the instructive video. I was wondering if one could marry the latest XCD lenses with the Analog back and shoot on film? Cheers!
This video helped me setup my Hasselblad 503CW with the CFV II 50c. However, I noticed when I use the Waist-Level Viewfinder for focus, using a film-back, it's tack sharp, but using the digital back, it backfouces a bit. So, I have to use the liveview option to focus for this setup.
Hello Math, I own the CFV II 50C fr a little more than a year, I've been trying to find a tutorial about how to tether the back mounted on a 500CM but haven't been able to find anything on the topic, I even watched the Karl Taylor Focus tutorial on the Hasselblad website, but basically the tutorial is about how to use the software. I would appreciate if you have any tips on how to do this. Thanks!!
Hallo, ich bin jetzt vom Vorgänger CFV-50c auf das CFV II 50-c umgesteiegen. Ich hab mich gegen das 100 MP entshcieden, denn die Qualität der 50 MP ist mehr als ausreichend für meine Anforderungen. Ich freue mich sehr darauf, und nicht zuletzt dein Video hat mich letztendlich überzeugt, diesen Schritt zu gehen. Ich habe zudem auch eine 903 SWC, für die das CFV II ja auch voll umfänglich geeignet ist. Danke für deine immer sehr schönen und wissenswerten Videos rund ums Fotografieren - Maximilian
Thanks for your brief introduction. I want ask more about Hasselblad 503cx can attach the electronic back or not
Very cool video, thanks. I had 907X for a bit, and tried using it with the old 80mm Planar and 150mm Sonnars, and was generally underwhelmed. One thing was just the massive “crop”, and the other was that the “native” digital lenses were on a different level in comparison. FInally, the best combo in terms of pleasing results were the old Hasselblad lenses used with the film back loaded with Portra :).
Thanks for your comment. You are right that not all vintage lenses carry over the huge resolution of modern camera sensors. That's why I chose the Zeiss Distagon 40mm f/4 FLE, this lens really can deal with the 50MP of the Hasselblad sensor, it is a super sharp lens.
@@mathphotographer I found that the 40mm CF FLE wasn’t all that great when shot wide open with a digital back. The 40mm that’s made for the digital world is the CFE model. The center was/is supposed to be sharper than the CF. I own the CF so I can’t confirm.
Can you use this back on 203Fe camera? I own that camera and many says that camera need a special calibration for this CFV II .
Been working with medium format Hasselblad since mid 70's, would shoot on nothing else. We even brought into the CFV 16 buying two. The problem is that there is no auto focus with this camera, which slows the process down. We also use the digital backs on Sinar P2 studio camera, as this CFV 50 could be used. One of those digital chips has started to break down, pixels missing etc and Hasselblad do not repair them.
We still have our V systems but also compliment it with a full Nikon D800 series system and lenses. We added to the V system when photographers were dumping their lenses at a fraction of the price. Nikon D850 with their pro lens has similar quality but have more to offer and quicker to use.
Would go with the 907x option so that the back can be expanded later with H lenses. An adapter can be purchased for the 907x for the V system lenses.
We feel that there will soon be a CFV 100 as their recent update on the other camera being issued.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences, insightful! And I fully agree, we will coming year see a CFV100 with the same sensor as the X2D. And we will see the X2D becoming better (in particular on autofocus) via firmware upgrades.
Thank you Math for this very useful explanation. I Will try it myself in the near future, and feel confident that I will avoid many mistakes, because you explained everything so well.
Thank you Harry, I am glad my presentation of this wonderful camera lens combo is seen as helpful.
thx for the video. Wide-angle landscapes with the lenses stepped down are one thing, but close focus, wide aperture shots are what should show us the real capabilities and failures of this camera and digital back combination because in such scenarios every misalignment of just fractions of milimeters will result in unsharp images. Film is much more forgiving in such circumstances.
I had a 503cx with all sorts of nice lenses, and your video almost made me want to buy these back and add the digital back. But the small sensor size is a no-go for me. :( To combine classic photography with modern technology, I‘ll buy the SL2 and put my M-lenses on it.
Thanks for your comment :) M-lenses on the SL2 are a terrific combination, used it a lot and continue to go for it.
Hi Matt - great video - many thanks for taking the time and sharing it. Since over a year I am using the CFV II 50c as well with the 907x but also with my legacy 501cm. I would be interested why you seem to prefer the electronic shutter towards the leaf shutter (or was that a wrong immpression of mine?) I prefer the leaf shutter for two reasons: firstly I am typically not using a tripod and find the rolling shutter effect quite significant in the CFV, even at very limited movements. Secondly I find the locking of the mirror for the live view a bit clumsy (which is however maybe because the 501cm is missing the respective button of the 503 cw). But even IF I would use tripod and a 503 I am not sure see the upside of an electronic shutter (apart from HDR and speeds above 1/500, obviously). Thanks for another great video and best regards from Basel, Adrian
It will be very nice if Hasselblad could implement manual input from a menu telling the digital back the lens used aperture and focus distance in this way all digital corrections could be implemented automatically on the final file. Don’t you think it could be easily done by a software update?
Great video as always.
I have a Hasselblad 500 C/M with a Hasselblad CF back and the 100mm 3.5 lens.
Am loving the quality of that ccd back, the images are almost "analog".
A Swiss can never get things wrong 🔥
Ha! :) Many thanks for the flowers :)
I heard there is a problem with focus on the digital backs
Hi Math!
nice Video, like that combination. I remember a schoolfriend had a Hasselblad, which was only outpaced by the Linhof of our teacher who did run the photography course at our grammar school. Sentimental memories, guess it was some 45 years ago! :-)
Greetings from sunny Frankfurt am Main - Andreas
Thanks Andy - greetings back to Frankfurt!
Anyway to buy the back without buying the 907x kit?
What is the lens conversion factor for the Zeiss lenses when using the CFV II 50c back?
The crop factor from the CFV II 50c to a full frame sensor is 0.79 - which is the crop factor you need to apply to focal length and aperture to get the corresponding full frame equivalent parameters. It is always 0.79x for all lenses which have an image circle large enough to fully cover the 44x33mm sensor of the CFV II 50c.
@@mathphotographer Thank you for responding, but that's not what I'm asking. Perhaps I didn't ask correctly. I am aware (from your videos) of the .79 conversion factor comparing the 44x33mm format to a full frame 24x36mm format.
What I'm asking is the conversion factor comparing Hasselblad Zeiss lenses on a 500 series body when using the CFV50 back. Effectively comparing the 500 series 6x6cm format to the CFV50 44x33mm format. Each Zeiss lens will become longer in their new effective focal length, and that I the conversion factor I am inquiring about. Thank you.
Very informative video, thanks for sharing. I would like to know if eventually you can tell the digital back or Focus the lens in use to implement corrections. I have noticed that there is some longitudinal chromatic aberration, can it be fixed later in post?
Excellent video. You might just have convinced me to buy the digital back for my 500cm..
You will enjoy the shooting experience big time! But maybe wait a bit with purchasing the CFV II 50c because Hasselblad will likely update the digital back with the new sensor of the Hasselblad X2D, so give it some time before you spend so much money :)
The old Hasselblad SWC system with the Diigital back 50MP, are one great camera system. I have only the digital back 50MP.
I find that nobody speaks about the self timer on the C and C-*t lems. Why?
Your level of knowledge is amazing 👏👏👏👏👏
just let me ask you something. Can you use leaf shutter and viewfinder at the same time or do you need to go into electronic mode? Just wondering if it's possible to shoot portraits that way without suffering from slow sensor read speed.
Hi very good video , thanks. Dose the digital back works with the 500 cm and the c lens ？
Yes - works fine. Thanks for the positive feedback.
Love the detail in your videos. I want that CFV II 50c pretty bad for my Hasselblads. I have a 503cx and a mint condition 500cm. But my Leica purchasing habits keep getting in the way. ;-)
Ha! Difficult situation, where to spend your money on, Leica or Hasselblad ;) Why don't you try to get a good mint condition CFV II 50c in the secondary market? If you have a chance to check the sensor before you buy the digital back, it should be ok. Your 503cx and 500cm would certainly love to be married to a digital back ;)
There are places that rent the CFV backs, I might try this one of these days with my 500c/m
A truely amazing video. Perfect explanation
Many thanks - I like your RUclips name, "concerned but not yet alarmed" can be applied to many things going on in the world :) Nice choice of a RUclips name.
Great video Math, very extensive and detailed, and I would rate it 99/100 cause there is a tiny slip of the tongue at 8:02 ;-)
It's not 19 feet but 19 inch ! (Yes, I pay attention to your detailed explanations)
Anyways, I love these Hasselblad modular setups.
Thanks for sharing and a very nice weekend
Ha! You spotted it, that this really happened to me ;) I can live with 99/100, makes my day, many thanks for the nice comment and enjoy your Sunday :)
I made a comment in the infobox below the video on my slip of the tongue :) to get it corrected. Thanks for paying so much attention to details, improves my presentation :)
@@mathphotographer 👍
Great video
Very helpful easy to understand presentation on the features of the Hasselblad camera system
Many thanks
Thank you Ronald.
Have you tried the CFV II 50c on an SWC?
What accessory do you have that is attached to the back of the camera to hold the film back ?
I mean the accessory to hold dark slide on the very back*
I hope when the new generation arrives a Buch of this older models hit the used market.
Awesome video and images
That looks like a wonderful combination. I guess the corner sharpness you get on the digital sensor is due to the significantly bigger image circle for the lens. I’m so tempted lately to get an Hasselblad. Out of curiosity, in case you have something similar, what would you consider to give better image quality between an X2D-100 and an H4D-60? I’m asking because I have seen some second hand H series being sold for less than an X2D.
Yes, its the bigger image circle, spot-on comment. Means, you only use the juicy center of the lens. And on your question, I would always prefer the X2D-100c. The only cameras that can top an X2D-100c are the H6D-100c and the Phase One IQ4 but the difference does not justify the so much higher price tag.
Nice. I’ve got my eye on one of these.
Do you have to use F setting on the lens? If so our C lenses do not have that.
I have use CFV II 50c on my SWC which does not have the F setting and it works perfectly. Math can you use the film back on the 907X cameras?
If your lens does not have an F setting, you set the lens to B (bulb), and then engage the shutter and lock it open with the lever on the shutter release.
Hi Hassan, SC Loop is correct, you can work with Bulb if you do not have an F setting. I did not try the film back on my 907X camera body, interesting idea, going the other direction. Let me think about that.
Thank you for this video Math, I only discovered your channel last night and binge watched several videos. You go into great depth and detail and have wonderful knowledge and explain things very well. I have been using Hasselblad cameras professionally for many years and recently purchased a SWC/M. I would love to use a digital back with the SWC/M but many people say because of the Biogen lens being so close to the film plane digital backs do not work as well. What do you think Math?
Very good and accurate content. Thank you.
You've blurred the clouds :) Anyway, nice video, cool, classy equipment.
This is a superb explanation and I’ll be watching it again and again. Have you had success with combining the digital back to the SWC or the 903 ? I haven’t really gotten the combination to work but I think it might be more about my lack of understanding the best combination of settings.
Thank you very much! I only tried it with this particular camera body but I see on RUclips that it also works with many other Hasselblad vintage camera bodies.
Best part of the video, "you can have an opinion, I don't care."
Sorry ... :) I had to say that :)
How cal develop film
Hasselblad color is incredible. Do you see any difference between the analog lens and the leaf shutter lens? I am sure they are both beautiful in their own way. I assume the older lens will have an organic look to it? Thanks.
The older lenses provide a more vintage-type look. The Distagon 40mm f/4 is a super sharp lens that fully supports the 50MP resolution of the Hasselblad sensor. On the lens itself, it has a leaf shutter built-in but can also be used on camera bodies with a focal plane shutter (the green F setting on the lens). That makes the lens very versatile and does the trick for shooting with electronic shutter on the digital back.
Why is it not a square format?
the digital back isn't a square, it's 44x33 (cm) approximately, if I remember correctly. So you don't get full 6x6 coverage
Top tip if you are using the Hasselblad digital back - at all times the catch holding the back to any body including the 907x is at severe peril if pressed accidentally - even when raising or lowering the waist level viewfinder - the back will fall off!!!! If you drop a film back - and I have - its a cupla hundred to replace - if you drop the digi back it is several thousand!!!!!
Thanks so much for your reply!!
Pleasure :)
I would love to see Hasselblad CFV II 50C digital back on difference camera ,like Maniya RZ 67 or RB67
Thanks Tony, I am fully with you. The MAMIYA RZ67 PRO II D was recently available in one of my favorite vintage camera stores ... I almost bought it but it is kind of impossible or super expensive to the the adapter plate for my Phase One IQ4, the fotoshop and I really tried to find the adapter, called Phase One and various other suppliers but it seems that if you want the adapter you can purchase it in the US and Asia but for an even higher price tag than the camera itself, really sad.
@@mathphotographer Hi Math, Yes the Mamiya adapter are crazy expensive .Silvestri make a Mamiya RZ adapter, but you have to use a cable to connect the lens to back. Thanks .Great video
another excellent video yet again 👏
Thank you very much.
I am very surprised that when you mentioned shooting landscapes, you focused on infinity at f8 for this video. You would have had a greater zone of focus, focusing with a 40mm if set at about 50ft, giving you a depth of field from about 19 and a half feet to infinity.I always check on the hyperfocal distance when focusing... this helps makes any foreground items of interest [ f any ] to be that bit sharper. Thumbs up though for producing a good video...
Is there a digital back for a Bronica?
Nope! Bronica is gone.
@@chakwong Sadly Bronica is gone. And it could be argued so is Mamiya. That is why it is quite sad to see when fans of Fujifilm or Hasselblad or whatever display hate online. We were all richer in the days when Bronica and all the others existed.
Bring a amateur photography hobbyist, I’m struggling to understand the idea of medium format look. Is it not the same when comparing to a good ff sensor with great lens?
Hi Matthew, its not exactly the same. There is some look coming from a different aspect ratio 4:3 compared to 3:2 on full frame sensors (36mm x 24mm) but you could achieve that medium format aspect ratio easily on full frame with a crop. The look really comes from the larger sensor size which provides various advantages. Having said that, via "equivalence" relations you can simulate with a full frame sensor a medium format look which, if you have not seen a lot of images from both types, is hard to distinguish from a genuine medium format sensor look. And yes, there is also a bit of a hype around "medium format look" ... the image is made by the photographer and not by the gear and some photos some talented people have shot with a cheap camera or even a smartphone might be better photos and express more than a lot of medium format photos :)
he is right that it is the photographer rather than the gear.
medium format used to have a big quality improvement during film days, or early digital. now digital cameras have advanced into MF range.
Good video, but a correction: there are 5 components: lens, body,back, VIEWFINDER AND FOCUSING SCREEN; you missed the last two!!, as you can replace the VIEWFINDER with multiple options, prisms, metered prisms, sports finders and the like.
The images look great, but wish you would have shown a raw file without grading to show the sharpness and contrast.
Good point, will do this next time, thanks Terence.
A camera on a tripod ....
Where is your cable release ?
As what I saw the helicopter shows significant chromatic aberration. And because of the crop factor you will not get a as much wide-angle effect as with the 120-film. Maybe better results can be got today with a Fujifilm GFX-100. A comparison of the two cameras would be interesting.
Hasselblad's RAW software Phocus has very fine and efficient optical corrections of old C and F series Zeiss lenses.
All vignetting, distorsion and CA is perfectly corrected.
Caveat is that you have to document manually during shootings type of lens, aperture and focusing distance for each frame and enter them manually in Phocus.
After RAW optical correction in Phocus I can confirm that on same shots only the very best C and F lenses have identical image quality compared to newest X series Hasselblad lenses. (40 FLE, 50 FLE, 100 3.5) and when pixel peeping even Superachromats like the 250 SA with finer detail than modern Hasselblad glass.
When best C lenses have quite as fine details than X lenses on the 50 Mpix sensor, contrast is always a bit less with the older glass.
Here it becomes interesting for experienced photographers who know how to boost digitally contrast. It's easier and more flattering to boost contrast when it's a bit low than reducing contrast when it's natively too high.
Interesting comment, thanks Jürgen. Appreciate Jean-Claude's comments, spot on.
@@jean-claudemuller3199 Thanks for the very useful information!
The hazy is not caued by the water from the Swiss lakes.
It is causedd by UV-light and ait pollution
How much did you pay for the digital back?
You do not buy the digital back only. It comes in a combo with the Hasselblad 907X. The price I paid is the one on the official Hasselblad website, look at V system (the modern one, not the vintage one).
@@mathphotographer I’ve a 500C with a f2.8/80 lens. I am tempted to get the 907X, so that the 500C can shoot digital. Extends its economic life to 60+ years! I noticed you shot with the 40mm. With my 80mm, what is the focal length in 35mm terms? And how much a cropping? I wouldn’t get the full 50mp, would I?
@@chakwong Your lens focal length is the standard focal length for your camera which is about 50 mm focal length on the full frame 35mm cameras- your image size however is going to be smaller than your analog film images due to the size of this sensor. This sensor is a 50 MP sensors and you are using it all so your images are full 50MP resolution.
@@atapourhassan7442 thanks, I got it now. Does the 907X provide a 645 mask for the 500C?
Dream combination, bit I think that here will be always a lot of dust on photos.
Dust can be handled in post, no issue. For instance in Capture One 22 you can work with LCC profiles and then dust removal is just one click away.
they should do this for 35mm cameras
Interesting, images doesn't have the typical clinical digital look/feel.
very good video thanks for iy
Great that you liked it, thanks for the positive feedback.
8:05 - 19 inches not 19 feet.
Amazing
:)
120 film does not mean that it's 120mm. 120 is only the reference nr. Kodak gave it back in the days.
Correct - thanks for pointing out.
6+6cm frame?
Peccato che è una immagine 4:3 un formato che non mi piace.
Nice video! The 907X is one of my photographic gear dreams, I'd love to have one to use with my 503cx... I've just learned from it a couple of new things about the usage of the CFV II 50c with the Hasselblad 500 V-series analog bodies I didn't know about - more precisely, regarding the electronic shutter. I previously thought that in order to do that, I'd have to set the shutter speed in the lens to "B(ulb)" and then either use the time exposure lock (which is absent in the 501cm and the 503cw) or a lockable shutter release cable in order to use Live View. I didn't know that if you set the shutter speed to "F(ocal plane shutter)" in CF(i,e) lenses and then the mirror lock-up you can do the same. On the other hand, if you use C lenses instead the "F" setting is not available, so only the first method for using the electronic shutter can be employed then. In that case, a 501cm or a 503cw becomes quite awkward to use with the electronic shutter (especially handheld), I imagine.
Also, regarding the Zeiss CF lenses... You have the good fortune of being able to use one of the sharpest lenses in the lineup, the 40mm FLE Distagon is one of the best matched ones for use with such a high-res digital back, together with the 100mm Planar and the 250mm, 350mm Superachromats, followed closely by the 50mm FLE Distagon, the 120mm Makro-Planar and the 180mm Sonnar. The 60mm Distagon, the 80mm Planar and the 150mm Sonnar are not really on par with the CFV II 50c's pixel size, unless you are purposely looking for a soft, "vintage" look. Also, manual focusing accuracy is critical when shooting with this back - using the split-image prism focusing screen with the CFV framelines (and, if possible, a prism viewfinder as well) is a great help in that regard; otherwise, if you are willing to use the electronic shutter (or perhaps just the mirror lock-up?) you can use focus peaking in Live View.
Thanks a lot for your comprehensive comment, Pedro, and sharing your experience in the comments. I am really happy to hear that the video and explanations were useful. It is indeed a dream combo, shooting the CFV50c on these vintage cameras!
Would love to see examples shot with the 100mm f3.5. That lens has reputation as being one of the very best. I think all the Zeiss Hasselblad lenses are outstanding for their time though.
Bist du deutsch
If they had made the digital back 6 x 6 I would be interested. I shot Bronica MF for years. Otherwise please do not call these 'Medium' format.
I see a bit of chromatic aberration
Viel zu viel Blaustich.
To be honest, the picture quality is very ordinary.
"I don't really care because that's my opinion".... what a modern attitude. facts? no matter! other opinions? no matter! other people? no matter!
A bit of independence in opinions might be allowed :) I fully respect what other people have to say, that's why I also often reply to comments :) I hope besides the "modern attitude" which you called out (and I fully respect it) you got something useful out of the video from its true content ...
I have a question, what would be the crop factor on this digital back? What would be the equivalent focal length using the 40 mm lens? Thanks.
The crop factor from the CFV II 50c to a full frame sensor is 0.79 - which is the crop factor you need to apply to focal length and aperture to get the corresponding full frame equivalent parameters.