About the af problems: In fashion you extremely rarely shoot shallow DOF. Average aperture for editorial or look book is f6 /f8. You need clothing details for crops etc. So it's a good machine for that purpose.
Fu,ck that. If you have a chonker like that, you gotta shoot with the shallowest depth of field, even if you can't see sh,it on the images, even if it looks like you're photographing with a microscope.
Leica S-E owner here, bought it last year for around 10k RMB (About 1450 USD) for just the body with the CCD replaced. It works really well with vintage medium format lenses, Carl Zeiss Jena lenses from Pentacon 6x6 are my favourite (both 50 f4 and 80 F2.8) Side note: the main selling point for Leica S is compactness, the body is shape like a DSLR with 10-15% size increase.
@@cellphonehistorian1491 Thats why I only bought one with its CCD already replaced. Besides, both M9 and S-E (S2) suffered the same corrosion issue and S-E has way fewer cases going for. However, it is a serious issue and very likily to be unrepairable since Lecia stop providing CCD replacement a while ago (according to blog post).
@@cellphonehistorian1491 You are correct. S-E also only has one centre AF point and what’s the point of a AF lens that only can do one AF point, so instead I opted for a after-market split-prism focusing screen. The focusing screen plus the focus display is easy enough to get the shot in focus. Another point for the costly ownership is the adapter, even an after-market Leica S to Mamiya 645 adapter cost a lot more than some other systems.
@@cellphonehistorian1491 Arguably the Pentax 645D is a more sensible option, they share a similar Kodak CCD sensor with way cheaper and readily available lens plus more AF point. The only (rather big) downside is the weight and the size.
If you're okay with going a little... well not jank but let's call it esotheric... Leaf made a whole bunch of digital backs (Leaf Aptus) that you can use on a wide variety of bodies... including a lot of old medium format film bodies... even inexpensive ones like the Zenza Bronica ones... A Zenza Bronica ETRs can be had with lenses etc for 300-500€... and the digital backs often go for under 500€... be aware though... on older medium format digital backs anything over iso 50-100 starts looking very very crunchy So you CAN get a medium format setup including lenses and back etc for under $1000
It seems there aren't any digital backs made natively for Bronica ETR system and a modification is required for putting a digital back on ETR. I really wish there is a digital back option for manual Mamiya 645. It's a shame that Mamiya changed the back mount when they made AF 645.
@@tc227 no you don't need to modify anything... the Leaf Aptus backs come in literally every single medium format that was available at the time including Zenza Bronica ETRs.. the Leaf Aptus also comes for the Mamiya 645 it's just gonna be hard to find them... they cost like $25k at the time they were released so there weren't many sold and they're still very capable IQ wise (not when it comes to ISO performance though) so they're still pretty sought after if they work
While true, most of these digital backs for the medium format cameras are tethered only. Means if you want to go out and shoot on them, you're also lugging around a battery pack and a powered up old Macbook with firewire connected. There are some untethered versions, but those are not under 500€. More like 1500€.
@@cabbelos i mean yeah.... but since you actually need REALLY bright light.... like studio light as you'll probably be shooting at ISO 50/80/100 at f/8-16.... shooting outside is already near impossible these old backs have great IQ... but only at really really really ideal conditions
@@LoFiAxolotl I've shot ISO 25 film handheld no problem. But then again I'm pretty bonkers and have to do everything the difficult way to just see for myself how it would be :D
@@donaldfalls7352 good choice! I’m sure you’re loving it!
2 месяца назад+9
I’ve bought a super clunky H4 50ms last year on mpb, it’s a really brick but makes the clearest and nicest product pictures and fine art portraits I’ve ever made.
Going out with a 66 buck camera is to me like living out in the jungle or nature. Its romantic, but I wouldnt stick to it for my everyday shots. I kinda want one just for the lulz. Its seems more fun and less serious. Hard to explain
I got a $10 DSLR(a Pentax *ist D), which happened to have just 17k shutter count and it's been my main camera until I got a Nikon D800(it's still my other main camera to this day bc it's fun)
Good video. The Hassie lenses are really expensive and the battery is proprietary. Pentax’s 645D uses six AA batteries and the lenses are relatively cheap. Buying the camera body is expensive, though. There’s always something.
You can find CR123 lithium battery grips for around $60. I have one for the just in case moments. The removable battery grips idea is superb. If you’re set up on a tripod, you don’t have to go through the process like you’d have to on a Mamiya 645AF/phase one system. Also, newer models with true focus feature helps the back focus issues. The one killer for me on the digital blads is that you can’t use capture one. You’d have to get a different body (H1, H2, H4X, H5X, H6) to use Leaf or Phase One backs.
- 00:00 📸 Digital medium format cameras have massive sensors, much larger than full-frame, and are very expensive, costing thousands to tens of thousands of dollars. - 00:23 🏷️ Prices for vintage digital medium format DSLRs are dropping, with some models nearing the $1,000 mark. - 01:06 💸 The Hasselblad H3D has consistently been sold for under $1,000, but there’s a reason for its lower price. - 01:43 🔄 The Hasselblad H3D is a modular camera, allowing for interchangeable components like the body, digital back, and viewfinders. - 02:30 🖼️ The camera offers the option to shoot both digital and film with interchangeable backs. - 03:16 👀 The viewfinder on the H3D offers an incredible optical experience, different from modern digital cameras. - 04:08 🔋 The camera’s battery is part of the grip, making it proprietary and harder to replace. - 04:49 ⚙️ The shutter mechanism is inside the lens, limiting lens adaptability but allowing high-speed flash sync. - 05:56 💰 Medium format lenses, especially for the H3D, are expensive, often costing hundreds of dollars even used. - 06:24 🌈 The dynamic range and color quality from this 2006 camera are impressive, delivering excellent image results. - 07:01 🏋️ The camera is heavy, weighing nearly 5 lbs, making it more suitable for studio or tripod use. - 07:18 🎯 The autofocus can be unreliable, often back-focusing, especially with shallow depth of field shots. - 07:42 ⏳ The camera writes files slowly, affecting shot-to-shot performance, which impacts how it's used. - 07:54 ⚠ Despite its great image quality, the camera is old, with limited ISO performance and parts that may be hard to replace.
Careful on the rubber ring on the viewfinder. It is likely to get lost, and expensive to replace. I lost mine, but managed to 3d print one…the original rubber one is softer. $500 is very inexpensive for the 80, which listed near $4k. I don’t have AF back focus issues with mine, which I have for more than 10years. I used it for my professional work, but retired it for a GFX.
I believe 'once upon a time' there was talk of firms producing digital backs to a host of old film SLRs, I think here in the UK there were rumours of government sponsorship towards this 'new tech' industry but we all now know how that story worked out.
That was Leaf, the Leaf Aptus back came for literally every medium format out there, they're now owned by PhaseOne and while PhaseOne no longer does that they still fully support the old backs with every CaptureOne version I used to use a Leaf Aptus 22 on my Zenza Bronica ETRs until like 5 years ago no adapter or anything needed it's just incredibly hard to find them because they literally cost as much as a house back then so there weren't many sold
That idea keeps coming up. There is a company (still around I think) with the cheesy name "I'm Back" that does them for some popular old 35mm SLRs. It doesn't work well and the idea is pointless IMHO.
I've been keeping an eye on the GFX50 Series. Occassionally on auction they go for 1500 here and trajectory is only going down, as you can tell it's lacking a lot of the modern tech people want. Potential for absolute steals to be had there
The AF backfocus issue assuming the focus is correct in the viewfinder could actually be an adjustment issue, most DSLR AF systems have small amounts of adjustments that a service person could adjust the focus CCD units with to ensure that the focus on the viewfinder matches that at the focal plane (where the film or digital sensor is). I'd recommend taking some photos in a controlled environment and verifying if this is the case, and probably do it with both film and the digital sensor so you'll know if the focus issue may be related to the back. I've had zero problems with focus on the Contax 645 AF system and have shot it with super shallow depth of field on focus critical subjects (a bee on a flower). So the focus issue should not be something that you just live with. Since you've taken apart some cameras before, it might be worthwhile sourcing a repair/service manual to find out how to adjust the AF CCD to match up with the viewfinder if you've isolated the problem to that area. Also, one of the primary issues with leaf shutters are the limitations on optical design and added bulk if you were to keep a similar optical design to a focal plane shutter, but most Hasselblads are leaf shutters anyway, which baffles me at the prices they tend to ask for the cameras. I believe the particular camera you have is another Hasselblad and Fuji collaboration btw and you can look for Fuji parts if the Hasselblad parts are expensive because people are idiots and have a halo effect around the Hasselblad name.
This one is the big sensor, 54mm x 40mm more or less not the crop one in the Fuji, so it's a different experience. Also it's a DSLR and you can shoot film with it.
@@jaimeduncan6167 Looks like it's 49x37, so still a crop, just not a 44x33 crop. (Appears they got up to 54x40 with the 60 MP H4D/H5D, and the 100 MP H6D.)
@@jaimeduncan6167Fair enough, but the Fuji is a much more modern camera, and considerably smaller. I would be fine with the smaller sensor of the Fuji if I got better autofocus and low light performance for it, as well as being able to shoot without a tripod.
@@jaimeduncan6167 I am not saying not get the Hasselblad, but while Fuji has a bigger crop on the GFX, its also a MUCH easier camera to work with, even if Fuji has its own silly quirks that I personally dislike, the other is Pentax which are easier cameras but also pretty large and heavy cameras, not something you take with you on a vacation unless you want to be robbed day one.
In terms of batteries, if you find the battery grip for the wall plug, you can adapt it to be powered by a USB power bank. I do this with a longer USB C cable and put the bank into my back pocket with the cable looped through a belt loop. Just pay attention to voltage and wattage. It doesn't power on via the 100w output but requires a 100w cable through the 60w output. Atleast mine does.
I remember seeing these in the BH catalog and photo magazines whenthey were new and was blown away by the cost. Certainly a "good" camera back in the day but for medium format cameras. I always thought it was very ugly. It has a unique look for sure and I guess that is what they were going for.
Several years ago I found a LN Pentax 645z (50mgpxl) for $3000, the seller claiming only 13 shutter exposures. As it was a $6000 camera at the time, I bought it. Sure enough, 13 shutter releases! They sell now for under $2000 used, the mirrorless genre' taking over the market. But the 645z is still an advanced camera with movie and timers . . . can do it all. The real savings is in lenses. As the 645 Pentax line goes way back, legacy glass from manual focus days to even autofocus are true bargains. For the price of a Fuji GX with one lens, you can put together a full 645z kit with four or more lenses. And the 645z sensor is the same one used by Fuji and Hassy. As for film, I have a folding 645 film camera from the 1930's that fits into my pocket.
@@ironmonkey1512 I picked up a 150mm f2.8 autofocus prime for the 645z at less than $500. Look at Fuji's prices. Also, an autofocus era zoom and a 400mm f5.6 AF. Manual focus primes from 35, 45, and 75mm, and a 120mm macro . . . the manual focus primes are no problem as the 645z has a sound notification when in focus, and the focus point outlined. Nothing wrong with the Fuji optics. Outstanding, but they are a new line and you pay modern era prices.
@@ironmonkey1512 what would you even need OIS for? Fuji and Hassleblad fooling people into thinking bigger sensor = better was a genius marketing move...
I used to own an H3dii-22, great camera, but fragile. I sold it with the worry that parts would fail. Recently I considered an H3d-39II, but again, the bodies are very hard to get good repair shops. I shoot on gfx and am very happy. I still have the 100mm 2.2 and have yet to find a use for the lens lol
Just buy the adapter H to GF. The original one from Fuji even lets you use (if you want) the leaf shutter in the hasselblad lens with your gfx, which is very cool for flashes. Only caveat: only manual focus.
I like the old "older medium format camera". The quality of the photos is so good. 16 bit raw, high dynamic range. The advantage of this, if you take an H1 or an H2 system, for example, you can use great back, such as the Phase one P and P+ series. If you go for a Mamiya DF+, you can even use the latest back.
The problem with vintage digital is this, so often a failure point is the buttons, motherboard or daughterboards. And trying to fix these can be silly expensive. Then you have the old batteries to deal with and that's layers of more trouble. You sort of cover this but it needs a really strong warning. Put it this way i learned the very hard way when trying to get something fixed.
Is it possible to create dummy battery for this kind of systems that would run from powerbank? Would make sense for this kind of heavy older cameras that you probably would use on tripod most of the time anyway.
I started shooting digitally with the Hasselblad H2 with several different PhaseOne backs, starting with the P25, than the P40. I hardly ever shot from a tripod, loved this camera, even shot fashion outdoors with it... of course it has limitations (AF only in the middle and fairly slow) but it was a workhorse. It cost a fortune but paid off quickly. But clients weren't prepared to pay for that extra format anymore as soon as full format cameras from Nikon like the D800 appeared. I still miss that Hasselblad though, the PhaseOne backs were always better btw...
That h3dii 39 was my first third hand Hasselblad camera. This was a very important decision for me...I am proud of still owning one, plus after a h4d50, but still prefer H3dii and then I continued with x1d2 and now x2d...I still use my first camera. x1d2 I sold for paying the x2d, but probably will never sell this h3dii as it makes extraordinary pictures...
btw, you can get Battery grips that work with CR123 batteries, much better for remote work where you dont have any way to charge or it's cumbersome to bring the charging kit and big batteries.
I used to shoot with the H2 and lenses for all my fashion shoots from 2005 to 2012 with the Phase One back. I have to tell you it breaks my heart a little bit to hear it described as a vintage camera. LOL.
I just got very lucky with a fuji gfx50r and a 32-64 f4 lens. Digital medium format dream fullfilled. With an adapter it can use old fuji and hasselblad lenses and utilize their leaf shutter too.
I have a CR123 battery unit for my H3dii cameras in addition to several proprietary batteries foe my system. I also believe the film backs are not compatible with the H3 bodies, only H1, 2, 5 and 6 bodies.
fyi, don't know if it was already mentioned, but regarding the battery/grip there is one version of it that instead of being a rechargeable lithium battery, can instead be fitted with off-the-shelf cr123a cells (non-rechargeable). not exactly the most common type of battery, but it's better than nothing
Cool, curious to see the follow-up on the Mamiya ZD and hear which one you prefer at the end and why, the Hassy looks to have the better colors out of camera, but I quite like the unique look of the ZD as well (incidentally, I had your very same deal on one, in perfectly working conditions 🙂)
Great video! The H3D and the 39mp back is one of those dream cameras! I have the Pentax 645D which I was able to find for just $1050. Although that was definitely a deal and they are usually closer to $1400-1600.
I think it's a better buy. Crazy enough, the original Fujifilm GFX mirrorless cameras are about the same price of the 645d. I think I'd go for the 645d to try next as a Pentaxian at heart and that nice CCD, but the ability to adapt all sorts of vintage glass on the GFX is tempting...
@@snappiness The GFX is a solid camera especially with regard to the ability to mount all kinds of stuff to it! Although I do love how cheap lens are for the 645D while still being exceptional quality!
mpb is fairly expensive with some stuff. I've seen the pentax 645D go for sub 1.000 on our local used market a lot, even the 645z is generally only 1500-2000.
I was able to score a Pentax 645D about 6 months ago for $1300. Since I already have a complete Pentax 645 film body with a full set of primes, I was good to go. The AF lenses aren't super expensive, but when I'm shooting medium format I'm basically always happy to use manual focus anyway. Since the old film 645 lenses can generally be gotten affordably, I suspect this setup would be competitive price-wise with the Hasselblad. Of course, it's also not a Hasselblad. :D I've been eyeing prices on the Leica S2, which also has a Kodak medium format CCD sensor, but the lenses there I think have mostly ruled that out as a hobby option.
A gorgeous used GFX is around $1600 and you are good to go for decades. Colors from a RAW file are anything you want. You have a good eye, everybody shoots gas stations etc., yours are way above average, very sensitively seen.
The feature that will pull you over to medium format is the authentic bokeh-which even rolls out into radial bokeh depending on the lens. And that hasn't been simulated yet. When I try to describe this, few people today can comprehend what I'm talking about. The way the depth of field is shallower than a 35mm, because the film/cell surface and the lens are all bigger compared to the universe. Like looking at the world with a giant's eye versus a mouse-eye.
Love this video!!! I have the h2d with the very first 22mp proprietary back by hasselblad made after hasselblad bought Imacon. I did a whole street photography series after I got mine and it's now my workhorse camera. I have an adapter I got off ebay which is an m55 to hasselblad h then I got an m55 to m42 lens adapter. I would seriously send it to you. It makes the hasselblad h a macro camera.
I learned with the H3D back then and imo its a pure studio camera since its so hungry for light. No idea how you are able to pull off such dynamic range from this old sensor, I just remember it being incredibly noisy.
Interesting. Probably the GFX50R, GFX50S or a 645D makes more sense. If just wanting a single lens then maybe the H3D offers value, but I think the other cameras make more sense from a longer term investment perspective. I still miss my 645D, was an awesome camera and my favorite among all the Pentax cameras I owned.
While it wasn't $1000, I bought a used Hasselblad X1D 50mp body a few years ago for $2800 and paid another $850 for a used XCD 45P lens. Shortly afterwards I picked up a H to X adapter so I could use a few H series lens I found for a decent price (relative to normal Hasselblad prices). All in, about $6K for one helluva a 50th birthday present myself. Hasselblad may not be great for action photos, but they take amazing portrait and landscape images.
You can find the Pentax 645D for around $1,000 USD and the lenses are way cheaper and uses a much cheaper battery. No interchangeable backs or viewfinders though.
I was so happy when I found a Leaf Aptus 65S for 700€, but I already have a Mamiya RZ67 and lenses I was able to adapt it to, only other thing that was neccessary was just a "cheap" adapter that cost me 300-ish 😅
Inaccurate old autofocus on digital systems get on my nerves, and when I use manuals I want to have the kind of goodness that Magic Lantern offers to show clear detail outlines of where the focus lies. Going to be hard to move on from the trusty old 2012 EOS M. (hope to one day go digital medium format, there's this chunky rangefinder on 'roids looking thing)
Great video and thank you for keeping an eye on these MF camera prices! :) I still miss the viewfinder and image quality from my Pentax 645. For some reason my eyes or my brain struggles with smaller modern viewfinders, and I am often not confident whether I've picked the right composition. I remember with the P645, that that was never an issue, cause the image was SOOOOO clear. Of course, the weight and mamoth mirror slap are an entirely separate convo :D
HD3-22 was my fave, great sensor size. Had a 39, 50 and 200MS, but nothing ever looked as good as the 22. On to GFX50s in 2016 and never looked back. I shoot all these cameras commercially, id buy those H3/4/5 as a CPO and pay it off in in 2-3 mos. I sold my H4 200MS and the 80 + 120, some batteries and accessories and paid for my GFX50s, 32-64, 63 and the 120 PLUS a new MacBook Pro with the proceeds. Its just another world with the later model MFD, better in so many ways but i feel the files are pretty meh IMHO compared to s 22MP CCD sensor. YRMV
For those that are comparing the Hasselblad to the GFX, there's a big difference in sensor size. The Hasselblad is still bigger. The sensor on the Hasselblad is 53.4 x 40.1mm and the GFX is 43.8 x 32.9 mm, and not only that the the pixel size is larger on the H series resulting in a better image quality overall. I am not sure people realize that sensor sizes vary even in medium format.
If you shoot a very select few Hasselblads, yes. Most of the H series cameras had a 44x33 size sensor as well. From the top of my head, some 39, the 60 and 100 megapixel varients had the larger sensors. But the H4D31 I owned had the exact same size as the Fuji I own now.
@@Twitttt Digital backs can vary. I had a Phase One as mentioned with the larger size. The H2 is a 6.x4.5 (56 × 41.5mm) film size camera. So the digital backs made for that camera tried to maximize that size.
I have the H2 and Phase One p25 back and honestly, the H system is hard to recommend unless you really understand what you're getting into. The 80mm is the smallest and lightest lens for the system and other than the 100mm, everything else is absolutely massive and weighs a ton, which is fine if you never leave the studio, but otherwise can be a real pain. Filter sizes can be massive and therefore expensive and if you're going to shoot outdoors, you really will need a set of ND filters if you're planning on shooting wide open at all. For instance, my 50-110mm weighs 1650g (3.6lbs) and takes a 95mm filter! If you're a studio shooter, you also need to be aware that most backs will need either FW400 or FW800 connections to shoot tethered and I've found they can be finicky with FW to Thunderbolt adapters. CF Card compatibility is poor, you'll need to stick to older, lower capacity cards. Battery life is poor and the back and camera have separate batteries that need to be charged. Even though the top LCD is backlit, it can be hard to read at night and if you are shooting outdoors in the cold, the buttons are tiny and hard to press with gloves. Sometimes, the camera will just stop recognizing the back or lens so you'll have to either power everything down or detach and reattach. ISO range is poor and you're likely going to want to stick to base ISO (which can be as low as 50, 800 is unusable on mine). Another BIG thing to keep in mind, is that not all the backs and bodies are interchangeable. At some point, Hasselblad locked out 3rd party backs from Leaf and Phase One as well as locking out their own back from different models, so you have to really do your research to know which back will work with which body. I think with the H4, they also locked out the ability to use film backs. If you buy the bits you want a la cart, make sure everything's compatible and make sure you get a focus screen with the correct frame lines etched in it. The different back have different sensor sizes and all of them are smaller than 645 film. All these disclaimers aside, it can be a great system if you understand what you're getting into and are willing to deal with the compromises required. The images are outstanding, though with less dynamic range than your average, modern mirrorless system. CCD backs have (to my eye) nicer colour and they SOOC have are more filmic contrast curve because of their non-linear and smaller dynamic range. I enjoy mine, but don't use it nearly as much as I thought I would.
To answer your question in the title before even watching the video: I found a Rolleiflex Clone (Seagull 4A) for 10€ on the flea market by chance. For that price i'd say i got a good camera :DD
It's crazy to think that the H3D (?) is still considered a 'cropped' medium format sensor at 48x36mm. I just read that 53.4mm x 40mm is technically considered true 'full-frame' medium format, which is insane.
@@sushi_donut yep. I mean, at the end of the day, we are comparing ‘true medium format’ to that of film. Usually though, people compare it to the smaller medium film format 645 (6x4.5), which is still bigger than hasselblad or phaseone’s sensor. It is similiar to how 135 film format is 24x36, or what we call full frame in digital cameras. I believe its the expense, development/difficulity and size that (currently) stops cameramakers from making a true medium format sensor for mirrorless cameras, but just imagine if they made a ‘true’ large format sensor for mirrorless one day…. 😵💫
Sometimes I think I missed out on purchasing a Hasselblad back in the 90’s, the medium format film became harder to get developed unless you paid big dollars to a professional lab. Fast forward the company finally released a digital back for their legacy cameras but it came in around $20K new and had lousy performance in low light conditions. It was geared for outdoor bright light environments. It would be almost another decade before they came out with a decent digital back but again one would have to wait for at least two generations of backs until one could afford that second gen back. Oh well, I’ll stick with my OM10 Quartz. It needs new light seals but those have become available on line. Tri X is back and they still have chemistry for black and white that is affordable.
Hi Snapiness, I hope this message finds you well! My name is Rhys, and I’m really excited about starting my own RUclips channel. I’m currently on a tight budget and can’t afford a camera right now, so I was wondering if you might have any used or unused cameras that I could borrow or use-any help would mean a lot to me. If you have any tips or advice for a beginner, I’d be incredibly grateful for that as well! Thank you so much for considering my request. Warm regards, Rhys
but doesn't it shoot iso 50? mine does. so that SS of 800 is balanced out, also f2.2/f2.8 isn't that wide open, so again that SS isn't that big of a deal imo. the 120 II macro is to die for, so is the 210 f4. that's my opinion at least :) I use them on my GFX as well, with the H-G adapter they work like a treat. they should have autofocus though since Fuji made the bloody lenses in the first place.. but hey..
that sound is great... recently grabbed an Eos R7 as back up and mainly for video only as I dont want to upgrade my Canon Eos R5 og.... BUT MY GOSH the sound of the Eos R7 shutter makes me sad even in e-first curtain... its that bad. I have shot Canon for longer than many people that follow you have existed and I hate this.
is the digital back compatible with other Hasselblad systems? like could you put it on a 500CM or the newer digital versions like you can with the newer digital backs?
@@prippropro I only have the H2. While the bodies are "cheap", everything else is a killer. Lenses, I've gotten lucky and got some for $500. Most are a lot more. The only I really want is like $2000. Digital backs, run around $1000+ on the low end, and it only goes up from there. The quality by today's standards makes purchasing them very debatable when you can get better quality for the same money. Most digital backs I've read about seem to be awful around 400ISO and I've seen the comment to limit your expectations compared to modern tech Film backs run around another $1000. Want to adapt your glass, add another $500+. The only model of the H I would recommend is the 4XH. I think that's the model name. It's been a while since I've cared about this camera, despite the amazing images it produces. I've seen exactly one for sale on ebay. I believe the thought process is the 4xH does both film and digital, whereas the other models do not, but it's been so long, I don't really remember my specific reasoning. I just recall kicking myself for not waiting for a 4XH. If you can score everything, a back, lens, viewfinder, etc, all in one, at a fair enough price, sure, not a bad deal overall. But the moment you want to expand, or something breaks, it gets costly, fast. And with GFX prices dropping, it's hard to recommend investing in a system that is a living antique. If you just absolutely need 6x4.5 digital, there's a pentax out there that does it, although, it's aged out of modern times too. On a side note, it's the only camera I've ever carried that made me worried about having it stolen. Never had a stranger comment on my gear before til one day I was out with the H2 getting coffee and dude in line was like, you look like a prime robbery suspect with that thing. He was right. The only thing I can honestly recommend is the glass. I've used that 80mm on a GFX 50SII and it was magic. Some professionals say they aren't as good as GFX glass, but whatever. One of the smoothest operating experiences between mismatched gear I've ever had.
About the af problems: In fashion you extremely rarely shoot shallow DOF. Average aperture for editorial or look book is f6 /f8. You need clothing details for crops etc. So it's a good machine for that purpose.
Fu,ck that. If you have a chonker like that, you gotta shoot with the shallowest depth of field, even if you can't see sh,it on the images, even if it looks like you're photographing with a microscope.
@@quarteratom yup. I agree
@@quarteratom unfathomably based
It's probably just my copy anyway. Maybe some AF adjustment I could do somewhere.
@@quarteratom that would be the fastest aperture...... also no you should generally not shoot wide open as that degrades the image quality
I think to go seriously into medium format a good option would be FUji GFX 50s which are around 1500 $ that is a much more modern camera
thats what i did
@@KaisterZero cool !!! what lenses do you use
Correct the value on it has been tanking for awhile now
@@neeravnaik for now i use it with a GFX TO EFS adapter mated to a Canon EFS 50MM stm since the lenses are quite..... expensive to be honest
the GFX sensor is SIGNIFICANTLY smaller than the Hassle H sensor... the difference is like GFX->APS-C
Leica S-E owner here, bought it last year for around 10k RMB (About 1450 USD) for just the body with the CCD replaced. It works really well with vintage medium format lenses, Carl Zeiss Jena lenses from Pentacon 6x6 are my favourite (both 50 f4 and 80 F2.8)
Side note: the main selling point for Leica S is compactness, the body is shape like a DSLR with 10-15% size increase.
You dont worry about CCD corrosion?
@@cellphonehistorian1491 Thats why I only bought one with its CCD already replaced. Besides, both M9 and S-E (S2) suffered the same corrosion issue and S-E has way fewer cases going for. However, it is a serious issue and very likily to be unrepairable since Lecia stop providing CCD replacement a while ago (according to blog post).
@@cheungezio317 I think about the system but the lens is deal breaker for me. Seems like the Hasselblad lenses are more affordable and more available
@@cellphonehistorian1491 You are correct. S-E also only has one centre AF point and what’s the point of a AF lens that only can do one AF point, so instead I opted for a after-market split-prism focusing screen. The focusing screen plus the focus display is easy enough to get the shot in focus.
Another point for the costly ownership is the adapter, even an after-market Leica S to Mamiya 645 adapter cost a lot more than some other systems.
@@cellphonehistorian1491 Arguably the Pentax 645D is a more sensible option, they share a similar Kodak CCD sensor with way cheaper and readily available lens plus more AF point. The only (rather big) downside is the weight and the size.
If you're okay with going a little... well not jank but let's call it esotheric... Leaf made a whole bunch of digital backs (Leaf Aptus) that you can use on a wide variety of bodies... including a lot of old medium format film bodies... even inexpensive ones like the Zenza Bronica ones... A Zenza Bronica ETRs can be had with lenses etc for 300-500€... and the digital backs often go for under 500€... be aware though... on older medium format digital backs anything over iso 50-100 starts looking very very crunchy
So you CAN get a medium format setup including lenses and back etc for under $1000
It seems there aren't any digital backs made natively for Bronica ETR system and a modification is required for putting a digital back on ETR. I really wish there is a digital back option for manual Mamiya 645. It's a shame that Mamiya changed the back mount when they made AF 645.
@@tc227 no you don't need to modify anything... the Leaf Aptus backs come in literally every single medium format that was available at the time including Zenza Bronica ETRs.. the Leaf Aptus also comes for the Mamiya 645 it's just gonna be hard to find them... they cost like $25k at the time they were released so there weren't many sold and they're still very capable IQ wise (not when it comes to ISO performance though) so they're still pretty sought after if they work
While true, most of these digital backs for the medium format cameras are tethered only. Means if you want to go out and shoot on them, you're also lugging around a battery pack and a powered up old Macbook with firewire connected. There are some untethered versions, but those are not under 500€. More like 1500€.
@@cabbelos i mean yeah.... but since you actually need REALLY bright light.... like studio light as you'll probably be shooting at ISO 50/80/100 at f/8-16.... shooting outside is already near impossible these old backs have great IQ... but only at really really really ideal conditions
@@LoFiAxolotl I've shot ISO 25 film handheld no problem. But then again I'm pretty bonkers and have to do everything the difficult way to just see for myself how it would be :D
Got my H3d-39 for $815 from mpb about two months ago. The. Got the 35mm and 80mm for another $1k together. No regrets so far.
can you make a sample shoot video about it, like this video? ı am really corius about it.
The original Fuji 50S and the 50R were the best sensors Fuji was making, I shot the 100, the 100S and the 100SII and I preferred the 50 MP sensor.
this why i went with the 50SII since the sensor is the same from 50S/50R
@@donaldfalls7352 good choice! I’m sure you’re loving it!
I’ve bought a super clunky H4 50ms last year on mpb, it’s a really brick but makes the clearest and nicest product pictures and fine art portraits I’ve ever made.
As someone who runs a $66 dslr, this is just a whole nother world.
Going out with a 66 buck camera is to me like living out in the jungle or nature.
Its romantic, but I wouldnt stick to it for my everyday shots.
I kinda want one just for the lulz. Its seems more fun and less serious. Hard to explain
What cam?
@@rleproductions2834 A Canon Sl1, but the model doesn’t really matter. I got it cheap on ebay.
High five bro. High five❤️
I got a $10 DSLR(a Pentax *ist D), which happened to have just 17k shutter count and it's been my main camera until I got a Nikon D800(it's still my other main camera to this day bc it's fun)
Good video. The Hassie lenses are really expensive and the battery is proprietary. Pentax’s 645D uses six AA batteries and the lenses are relatively cheap. Buying the camera body is expensive, though. There’s always something.
645D uses the same D-LI90 as other digital Pentax...
Oh, interesting. I was thinking of the film version of the camera, the 645N. Thanks for the info.
there is an option for small batteries with the Hasselblad as well. never used it, but i have it lol.
You can find CR123 lithium battery grips for around $60. I have one for the just in case moments. The removable battery grips idea is superb. If you’re set up on a tripod, you don’t have to go through the process like you’d have to on a Mamiya 645AF/phase one system. Also, newer models with true focus feature helps the back focus issues. The one killer for me on the digital blads is that you can’t use capture one. You’d have to get a different body (H1, H2, H4X, H5X, H6) to use Leaf or Phase One backs.
The grip doesn’t really work with the digital back.
@@sgroadie6367 It depends on the digital back. I have a Phase ONE P25+ and it has a separate battery pack.
- 00:00 📸 Digital medium format cameras have massive sensors, much larger than full-frame, and are very expensive, costing thousands to tens of thousands of dollars.
- 00:23 🏷️ Prices for vintage digital medium format DSLRs are dropping, with some models nearing the $1,000 mark.
- 01:06 💸 The Hasselblad H3D has consistently been sold for under $1,000, but there’s a reason for its lower price.
- 01:43 🔄 The Hasselblad H3D is a modular camera, allowing for interchangeable components like the body, digital back, and viewfinders.
- 02:30 🖼️ The camera offers the option to shoot both digital and film with interchangeable backs.
- 03:16 👀 The viewfinder on the H3D offers an incredible optical experience, different from modern digital cameras.
- 04:08 🔋 The camera’s battery is part of the grip, making it proprietary and harder to replace.
- 04:49 ⚙️ The shutter mechanism is inside the lens, limiting lens adaptability but allowing high-speed flash sync.
- 05:56 💰 Medium format lenses, especially for the H3D, are expensive, often costing hundreds of dollars even used.
- 06:24 🌈 The dynamic range and color quality from this 2006 camera are impressive, delivering excellent image results.
- 07:01 🏋️ The camera is heavy, weighing nearly 5 lbs, making it more suitable for studio or tripod use.
- 07:18 🎯 The autofocus can be unreliable, often back-focusing, especially with shallow depth of field shots.
- 07:42 ⏳ The camera writes files slowly, affecting shot-to-shot performance, which impacts how it's used.
- 07:54 ⚠ Despite its great image quality, the camera is old, with limited ISO performance and parts that may be hard to replace.
Careful on the rubber ring on the viewfinder. It is likely to get lost, and expensive to replace. I lost mine, but managed to 3d print one…the original rubber one is softer.
$500 is very inexpensive for the 80, which listed near $4k.
I don’t have AF back focus issues with mine, which I have for more than 10years. I used it for my professional work, but retired it for a GFX.
I picked up a phase one 645df+, p30 back and 80mm f2.8 and it’s such a fun camera to run around with
I believe 'once upon a time' there was talk of firms producing digital backs to a host of old film SLRs, I think here in the UK there were rumours of government sponsorship towards this 'new tech' industry but we all now know how that story worked out.
That was Leaf, the Leaf Aptus back came for literally every medium format out there, they're now owned by PhaseOne and while PhaseOne no longer does that they still fully support the old backs with every CaptureOne version
I used to use a Leaf Aptus 22 on my Zenza Bronica ETRs until like 5 years ago no adapter or anything needed it's just incredibly hard to find them because they literally cost as much as a house back then so there weren't many sold
That idea keeps coming up. There is a company (still around I think) with the cheesy name "I'm Back" that does them for some popular old 35mm SLRs. It doesn't work well and the idea is pointless IMHO.
I've been keeping an eye on the GFX50 Series. Occassionally on auction they go for 1500 here and trajectory is only going down, as you can tell it's lacking a lot of the modern tech people want. Potential for absolute steals to be had there
I've seen that too! That's crazy. Would be super fun adapting lenses to.
I got my H3Dii-39 for 950 euro from MPB, very happy with results.
Wildcat Den park? I was there in July. It's so beautiful! I shot some slide film through my bronica.
The AF backfocus issue assuming the focus is correct in the viewfinder could actually be an adjustment issue, most DSLR AF systems have small amounts of adjustments that a service person could adjust the focus CCD units with to ensure that the focus on the viewfinder matches that at the focal plane (where the film or digital sensor is). I'd recommend taking some photos in a controlled environment and verifying if this is the case, and probably do it with both film and the digital sensor so you'll know if the focus issue may be related to the back.
I've had zero problems with focus on the Contax 645 AF system and have shot it with super shallow depth of field on focus critical subjects (a bee on a flower). So the focus issue should not be something that you just live with. Since you've taken apart some cameras before, it might be worthwhile sourcing a repair/service manual to find out how to adjust the AF CCD to match up with the viewfinder if you've isolated the problem to that area.
Also, one of the primary issues with leaf shutters are the limitations on optical design and added bulk if you were to keep a similar optical design to a focal plane shutter, but most Hasselblads are leaf shutters anyway, which baffles me at the prices they tend to ask for the cameras. I believe the particular camera you have is another Hasselblad and Fuji collaboration btw and you can look for Fuji parts if the Hasselblad parts are expensive because people are idiots and have a halo effect around the Hasselblad name.
Fujifilm GFX cameras are also dropping in price, lowest I saw was 1600 bucks for a GFX 50, not bad.
This one is the big sensor, 54mm x 40mm more or less not the crop one in the Fuji, so it's a different experience. Also it's a DSLR and you can shoot film with it.
@@jaimeduncan6167 Looks like it's 49x37, so still a crop, just not a 44x33 crop. (Appears they got up to 54x40 with the 60 MP H4D/H5D, and the 100 MP H6D.)
@@jaimeduncan6167Fair enough, but the Fuji is a much more modern camera, and considerably smaller. I would be fine with the smaller sensor of the Fuji if I got better autofocus and low light performance for it, as well as being able to shoot without a tripod.
@@jaimeduncan6167
I am not saying not get the Hasselblad, but while Fuji has a bigger crop on the GFX, its also a MUCH easier camera to work with, even if Fuji has its own silly quirks that I personally dislike, the other is Pentax which are easier cameras but also pretty large and heavy cameras, not something you take with you on a vacation unless you want to be robbed day one.
true but unfortunately G lenses are still far from cheap though, even used
In terms of batteries, if you find the battery grip for the wall plug, you can adapt it to be powered by a USB power bank. I do this with a longer USB C cable and put the bank into my back pocket with the cable looped through a belt loop. Just pay attention to voltage and wattage. It doesn't power on via the 100w output but requires a 100w cable through the 60w output. Atleast mine does.
I remember seeing these in the BH catalog and photo magazines whenthey were new and was blown away by the cost. Certainly a "good" camera back in the day but for medium format cameras. I always thought it was very ugly. It has a unique look for sure and I guess that is what they were going for.
Several years ago I found a LN Pentax 645z (50mgpxl) for $3000, the seller claiming only 13 shutter exposures. As it was a $6000 camera at the time, I bought it. Sure enough, 13 shutter releases!
They sell now for under $2000 used, the mirrorless genre' taking over the market. But the 645z is still an advanced camera with movie and timers . . . can do it all.
The real savings is in lenses. As the 645 Pentax line goes way back, legacy glass from manual focus days to even autofocus are true bargains.
For the price of a Fuji GX with one lens, you can put together a full 645z kit with four or more lenses. And the 645z sensor is the same one used by Fuji and Hassy.
As for film, I have a folding 645 film camera from the 1930's that fits into my pocket.
The gfx zooms are as sharp as any of the pentax primes (I have both)... and has OIS. The GFX is a great platform.
@@ironmonkey1512 I picked up a 150mm f2.8 autofocus prime for the 645z at less than $500. Look at Fuji's prices. Also, an autofocus era zoom and a 400mm f5.6 AF. Manual focus primes from 35, 45, and 75mm, and a 120mm macro . . . the manual focus primes are no problem as the 645z has a sound notification when in focus, and the focus point outlined. Nothing wrong with the Fuji optics. Outstanding, but they are a new line and you pay modern era prices.
@@ironmonkey1512 IS is one thing I miss with the 645z, but I lived without IS since the 70's until I bought into OLY 4:3, so it is not a game changer.
@@ironmonkey1512 what would you even need OIS for? Fuji and Hassleblad fooling people into thinking bigger sensor = better was a genius marketing move...
@@LoFiAxolotl what are you even talking about? This comment was comparing to Pentax 645z which has the same sensor.
I used to own an H3dii-22, great camera, but fragile. I sold it with the worry that parts would fail. Recently I considered an H3d-39II, but again, the bodies are very hard to get good repair shops. I shoot on gfx and am very happy. I still have the 100mm 2.2 and have yet to find a use for the lens lol
Just buy the adapter H to GF. The original one from Fuji even lets you use (if you want) the leaf shutter in the hasselblad lens with your gfx, which is very cool for flashes. Only caveat: only manual focus.
Used one of these back in the day in a flash lighting course, lovely camera, was amazing at the time.
I love the aesthetic and modularity of this camera. Would look he part on a Blade Runner set imo. That mirror sound is also so satisfying!
I like the old "older medium format camera". The quality of the photos is so good. 16 bit raw, high dynamic range.
The advantage of this, if you take an H1 or an H2 system, for example, you can use great back, such as the Phase one P and P+ series. If you go for a Mamiya DF+, you can even use the latest back.
The problem with vintage digital is this, so often a failure point is the buttons, motherboard or daughterboards. And trying to fix these can be silly expensive. Then you have the old batteries to deal with and that's layers of more trouble. You sort of cover this but it needs a really strong warning. Put it this way i learned the very hard way when trying to get something fixed.
Just a heads up about the batteries for the H series, they do make a a battery grip that holds 3x CR123's.
Great video! Candid and honest. Enjoyment to watch!
Is it possible to create dummy battery for this kind of systems that would run from powerbank? Would make sense for this kind of heavy older cameras that you probably would use on tripod most of the time anyway.
I started shooting digitally with the Hasselblad H2 with several different PhaseOne backs, starting with the P25, than the P40. I hardly ever shot from a tripod, loved this camera, even shot fashion outdoors with it... of course it has limitations (AF only in the middle and fairly slow) but it was a workhorse. It cost a fortune but paid off quickly. But clients weren't prepared to pay for that extra format anymore as soon as full format cameras from Nikon like the D800 appeared.
I still miss that Hasselblad though, the PhaseOne backs were always better btw...
I had bought this in 2009 for my fashion/portrait business. There is a AA battery tray for the grip. If you can find one it's much better to use now.
That h3dii 39 was my first third hand Hasselblad camera. This was a very important decision for me...I am proud of still owning one, plus after a h4d50, but still prefer H3dii and then I continued with x1d2 and now x2d...I still use my first camera. x1d2 I sold for paying the x2d, but probably will never sell this h3dii as it makes extraordinary pictures...
btw, you can get Battery grips that work with CR123 batteries, much better for remote work where you dont have any way to charge or it's cumbersome to bring the charging kit and big batteries.
Great work mate, this is a fun system and the comparisons were helpful!
I used to shoot with the H2 and lenses for all my fashion shoots from 2005 to 2012 with the Phase One back. I have to tell you it breaks my heart a little bit to hear it described as a vintage camera. LOL.
I just got very lucky with a fuji gfx50r and a 32-64 f4 lens. Digital medium format dream fullfilled. With an adapter it can use old fuji and hasselblad lenses and utilize their leaf shutter too.
Noooo waaaay!!! 😮 HASSELBLAD is my dream camera! Glorious CCD sensor
Last year played with my old raw files from H3D. Loved shooting with this camera but God the files are amazing!
My mans out here doin the lord’s work!! 🙆♂️
I'd love to pick up a medium format CCD camera like this one day! Its a dream setup for me :D
I have a h4d50 , CCD is to die for!
I have a CR123 battery unit for my H3dii cameras in addition to several proprietary batteries foe my system. I also believe the film backs are not compatible with the H3 bodies, only H1, 2, 5 and 6 bodies.
This looks like an ideal camera for landscape or fashion where you want f/8 for maximum sharpness and detail
Really great and informative video, just wondering what are the file sizes for JPEGs with such a large medium format sensor?
At 7:27 , that’s still the same problem on the X2D. The closer the subject the worse it gets.
fyi, don't know if it was already mentioned, but regarding the battery/grip there is one version of it that instead of being a rechargeable lithium battery, can instead be fitted with off-the-shelf cr123a cells (non-rechargeable). not exactly the most common type of battery, but it's better than nothing
Oh that's interesting, I didn't know that
Those are some great shots. Tremendous detail. 😊
Cool, curious to see the follow-up on the Mamiya ZD and hear which one you prefer at the end and why, the Hassy looks to have the better colors out of camera, but I quite like the unique look of the ZD as well (incidentally, I had your very same deal on one, in perfectly working conditions 🙂)
Great video! The H3D and the 39mp back is one of those dream cameras! I have the Pentax 645D which I was able to find for just $1050. Although that was definitely a deal and they are usually closer to $1400-1600.
I think it's a better buy. Crazy enough, the original Fujifilm GFX mirrorless cameras are about the same price of the 645d. I think I'd go for the 645d to try next as a Pentaxian at heart and that nice CCD, but the ability to adapt all sorts of vintage glass on the GFX is tempting...
@@snappiness The GFX is a solid camera especially with regard to the ability to mount all kinds of stuff to it! Although I do love how cheap lens are for the 645D while still being exceptional quality!
mpb is fairly expensive with some stuff. I've seen the pentax 645D go for sub 1.000 on our local used market a lot, even the 645z is generally only 1500-2000.
Once you get three lenses and the HTS adapter you’re really in the hole for a few quid. I use mine for paid work, used it twice this week 😊
It really starts to add up!
The dream is a 500CM with a digital back but every time I look they're still way out of budget. Maybe one day!
I was able to score a Pentax 645D about 6 months ago for $1300. Since I already have a complete Pentax 645 film body with a full set of primes, I was good to go. The AF lenses aren't super expensive, but when I'm shooting medium format I'm basically always happy to use manual focus anyway. Since the old film 645 lenses can generally be gotten affordably, I suspect this setup would be competitive price-wise with the Hasselblad. Of course, it's also not a Hasselblad. :D
I've been eyeing prices on the Leica S2, which also has a Kodak medium format CCD sensor, but the lenses there I think have mostly ruled that out as a hobby option.
A gorgeous used GFX is around $1600 and you are good to go for decades. Colors from a RAW file are anything you want. You have a good eye, everybody shoots gas stations etc., yours are way above average, very sensitively seen.
The feature that will pull you over to medium format is the authentic bokeh-which even rolls out into radial bokeh depending on the lens. And that hasn't been simulated yet. When I try to describe this, few people today can comprehend what I'm talking about. The way the depth of field is shallower than a 35mm, because the film/cell surface and the lens are all bigger compared to the universe. Like looking at the world with a giant's eye versus a mouse-eye.
Love this video!!! I have the h2d with the very first 22mp proprietary back by hasselblad made after hasselblad bought Imacon. I did a whole street photography series after I got mine and it's now my workhorse camera. I have an adapter I got off ebay which is an m55 to hasselblad h then I got an m55 to m42 lens adapter. I would seriously send it to you. It makes the hasselblad h a macro camera.
I just messaged you on Instagram about it
I learned with the H3D back then and imo its a pure studio camera since its so hungry for light. No idea how you are able to pull off such dynamic range from this old sensor, I just remember it being incredibly noisy.
That lens click gave me an involuntary giggle. Starting to rethink my choices 😅
I find Pentax 645 lens cheap second hand as the market for these lenses is small it's a buyers market.
Shot quite a lot on the GFX 50S II and 907x. But the camera that I use the most in the past 6 months is the 645D. Totally under priced at the moment.
I've been watching and itching for a Pentax 645D to go with my Pentax Q-s1
Fuji 50S is somewhere around $1500. Not bad. And far less compromises than the Hassy.
Thanks. Please start bracing us for the 645 as soon as you may.
The H3d is not compatible with roll film backs.
Interesting. Probably the GFX50R, GFX50S or a 645D makes more sense. If just wanting a single lens then maybe the H3D offers value, but I think the other cameras make more sense from a longer term investment perspective. I still miss my 645D, was an awesome camera and my favorite among all the Pentax cameras I owned.
Fall 2020, I got a Mamiya 645afd, Mamiya 645df, 3 lenses, 2 film backs, a leaf aptus 5ii, and some other back for $900.
While it wasn't $1000, I bought a used Hasselblad X1D 50mp body a few years ago for $2800 and paid another $850 for a used XCD 45P lens. Shortly afterwards I picked up a H to X adapter so I could use a few H series lens I found for a decent price (relative to normal Hasselblad prices). All in, about $6K for one helluva a 50th birthday present myself. Hasselblad may not be great for action photos, but they take amazing portrait and landscape images.
You can find the Pentax 645D for around $1,000 USD and the lenses are way cheaper and uses a much cheaper battery. No interchangeable backs or viewfinders though.
Have a look at the Phase One that is what I use
Great video, review and wonderful camera.... Ebay here I come... wink wink... Thanks for sharing!
I was so happy when I found a Leaf Aptus 65S for 700€, but I already have a Mamiya RZ67 and lenses I was able to adapt it to, only other thing that was neccessary was just a "cheap" adapter that cost me 300-ish 😅
try a Kiev 6S/60/Pentacon Six, really nice film medium format system
@7:04 : Heavy? 2.17 kg is less than my Pentax K-1 (full frame) with grip and 24-70mm F2.8 lens, which comes to 2.24 kg.
I don't know...looking around out there now, I think the
Inaccurate old autofocus on digital systems get on my nerves, and when I use manuals I want to have the kind of goodness that Magic Lantern offers to show clear detail outlines of where the focus lies. Going to be hard to move on from the trusty old 2012 EOS M. (hope to one day go digital medium format, there's this chunky rangefinder on 'roids looking thing)
My 503cw hassles is much better, I can use both film and digital and I still have it since the 80s. Good video thanks for sharing
Great video and thank you for keeping an eye on these MF camera prices! :) I still miss the viewfinder and image quality from my Pentax 645. For some reason my eyes or my brain struggles with smaller modern viewfinders, and I am often not confident whether I've picked the right composition. I remember with the P645, that that was never an issue, cause the image was SOOOOO clear.
Of course, the weight and mamoth mirror slap are an entirely separate convo :D
HD3-22 was my fave, great sensor size. Had a 39, 50 and 200MS, but nothing ever looked as good as the 22. On to GFX50s in 2016 and never looked back. I shoot all these cameras commercially, id buy those H3/4/5 as a CPO and pay it off in in 2-3 mos. I sold my H4 200MS and the 80 + 120, some batteries and accessories and paid for my GFX50s, 32-64, 63 and the 120 PLUS a new MacBook Pro with the proceeds. Its just another world with the later model MFD, better in so many ways but i feel the files are pretty meh IMHO compared to s 22MP CCD sensor. YRMV
In Vietnam you can consistently find GFX50s for 35mil VND (~1500 USD).
For those that are comparing the Hasselblad to the GFX, there's a big difference in sensor size. The Hasselblad is still bigger. The sensor on the Hasselblad is 53.4 x 40.1mm and the GFX is 43.8 x 32.9 mm, and not only that the the pixel size is larger on the H series resulting in a better image quality overall. I am not sure people realize that sensor sizes vary even in medium format.
If you shoot a very select few Hasselblads, yes. Most of the H series cameras had a 44x33 size sensor as well. From the top of my head, some 39, the 60 and 100 megapixel varients had the larger sensors.
But the H4D31 I owned had the exact same size as the Fuji I own now.
@@Twitttt Digital backs can vary. I had a Phase One as mentioned with the larger size. The H2 is a 6.x4.5 (56 × 41.5mm) film size camera. So the digital backs made for that camera tried to maximize that size.
I have the H2 and Phase One p25 back and honestly, the H system is hard to recommend unless you really understand what you're getting into. The 80mm is the smallest and lightest lens for the system and other than the 100mm, everything else is absolutely massive and weighs a ton, which is fine if you never leave the studio, but otherwise can be a real pain. Filter sizes can be massive and therefore expensive and if you're going to shoot outdoors, you really will need a set of ND filters if you're planning on shooting wide open at all. For instance, my 50-110mm weighs 1650g (3.6lbs) and takes a 95mm filter!
If you're a studio shooter, you also need to be aware that most backs will need either FW400 or FW800 connections to shoot tethered and I've found they can be finicky with FW to Thunderbolt adapters. CF Card compatibility is poor, you'll need to stick to older, lower capacity cards. Battery life is poor and the back and camera have separate batteries that need to be charged.
Even though the top LCD is backlit, it can be hard to read at night and if you are shooting outdoors in the cold, the buttons are tiny and hard to press with gloves. Sometimes, the camera will just stop recognizing the back or lens so you'll have to either power everything down or detach and reattach. ISO range is poor and you're likely going to want to stick to base ISO (which can be as low as 50, 800 is unusable on mine).
Another BIG thing to keep in mind, is that not all the backs and bodies are interchangeable. At some point, Hasselblad locked out 3rd party backs from Leaf and Phase One as well as locking out their own back from different models, so you have to really do your research to know which back will work with which body. I think with the H4, they also locked out the ability to use film backs. If you buy the bits you want a la cart, make sure everything's compatible and make sure you get a focus screen with the correct frame lines etched in it. The different back have different sensor sizes and all of them are smaller than 645 film.
All these disclaimers aside, it can be a great system if you understand what you're getting into and are willing to deal with the compromises required. The images are outstanding, though with less dynamic range than your average, modern mirrorless system. CCD backs have (to my eye) nicer colour and they SOOC have are more filmic contrast curve because of their non-linear and smaller dynamic range. I enjoy mine, but don't use it nearly as much as I thought I would.
Awesome image quality. Hassel is the best ever.
If im not mistaken there are gfx 50r bodies for about a thousand every now and then
it;s the smallish senior and clearly not modular and you can't shoot film with it. Different machine for a different application.
To answer your question in the title before even watching the video: I found a Rolleiflex Clone (Seagull 4A) for 10€ on the flea market by chance. For that price i'd say i got a good camera :DD
Hey, I have the Seagull 4b. It's way fun and the lens is super sharp. Have fun!
Apparently between the H1, Pentax 645NII, Contax equivalent, Mamiya whatever: Pentax has the best autofocus.
It's crazy to think that the H3D (?) is still considered a 'cropped' medium format sensor at 48x36mm. I just read that 53.4mm x 40mm is technically considered true 'full-frame' medium format, which is insane.
Its not true full frame medium format. Its the sensor size that is closest to it.
@@slampest So what is considered "full-frame" medium format? 6x6, 6x7, 6x9, etc? I guess compared to 120, all medium format digi sensors are 'crop'?
@@sushi_donut yep. I mean, at the end of the day, we are comparing ‘true medium format’ to that of film. Usually though, people compare it to the smaller medium film format 645 (6x4.5), which is still bigger than hasselblad or phaseone’s sensor. It is similiar to how 135 film format is 24x36, or what we call full frame in digital cameras. I believe its the expense, development/difficulity and size that (currently) stops cameramakers from making a true medium format sensor for mirrorless cameras, but just imagine if they made a ‘true’ large format sensor for mirrorless one day…. 😵💫
For me the hasselblad 500cm has better clip shutter sound... which want to own with digital back
Sometimes I think I missed out on purchasing a Hasselblad back in the 90’s, the medium format film became harder to get developed unless you paid big dollars to a professional lab. Fast forward the company finally released a digital back for their legacy cameras but it came in around $20K new and had lousy performance in low light conditions. It was geared for outdoor bright light environments. It would be almost another decade before they came out with a decent digital back but again one would have to wait for at least two generations of backs until one could afford that second gen back. Oh well, I’ll stick with my OM10 Quartz. It needs new light seals but those have become available on line. Tri X is back and they still have chemistry for black and white that is affordable.
Hi Snapiness,
I hope this message finds you well! My name is Rhys, and I’m really excited about starting my own RUclips channel. I’m currently on a tight budget and can’t afford a camera right now, so I was wondering if you might have any used or unused cameras that I could borrow or use-any help would mean a lot to me.
If you have any tips or advice for a beginner, I’d be incredibly grateful for that as well! Thank you so much for considering my request.
Warm regards,
Rhys
Fare and informative, thanks James
Glad that I got to finish my H1 filmback setup before this😰
but doesn't it shoot iso 50? mine does. so that SS of 800 is balanced out, also f2.2/f2.8 isn't that wide open, so again that SS isn't that big of a deal imo.
the 120 II macro is to die for, so is the 210 f4. that's my opinion at least :)
I use them on my GFX as well, with the H-G adapter they work like a treat. they should have autofocus though since Fuji made the bloody lenses in the first place.. but hey..
I just bought a leaf apatus to convert my hasselbald v series into a digital camera.
that sound is great... recently grabbed an Eos R7 as back up and mainly for video only as I dont want to upgrade my Canon Eos R5 og.... BUT MY GOSH the sound of the Eos R7 shutter makes me sad even in e-first curtain... its that bad. I have shot Canon for longer than many people that follow you have existed and I hate this.
Top vid bloke. Thanks.
The GFX50S is still a better option at $1300, it is a much modern tech and you can adapt a lot of lenses, even FF.
is the digital back compatible with other Hasselblad systems? like could you put it on a 500CM or the newer digital versions like you can with the newer digital backs?
Lovely rich colours!
thanks for the overview
As someone who got too invested in the H system by falsely believing the low prices, I need an extra $1000 to get it digital.
@@prippropro I only have the H2. While the bodies are "cheap", everything else is a killer. Lenses, I've gotten lucky and got some for $500. Most are a lot more. The only I really want is like $2000. Digital backs, run around $1000+ on the low end, and it only goes up from there. The quality by today's standards makes purchasing them very debatable when you can get better quality for the same money. Most digital backs I've read about seem to be awful around 400ISO and I've seen the comment to limit your expectations compared to modern tech
Film backs run around another $1000. Want to adapt your glass, add another $500+.
The only model of the H I would recommend is the 4XH. I think that's the model name. It's been a while since I've cared about this camera, despite the amazing images it produces. I've seen exactly one for sale on ebay. I believe the thought process is the 4xH does both film and digital, whereas the other models do not, but it's been so long, I don't really remember my specific reasoning. I just recall kicking myself for not waiting for a 4XH.
If you can score everything, a back, lens, viewfinder, etc, all in one, at a fair enough price, sure, not a bad deal overall. But the moment you want to expand, or something breaks, it gets costly, fast. And with GFX prices dropping, it's hard to recommend investing in a system that is a living antique. If you just absolutely need 6x4.5 digital, there's a pentax out there that does it, although, it's aged out of modern times too.
On a side note, it's the only camera I've ever carried that made me worried about having it stolen. Never had a stranger comment on my gear before til one day I was out with the H2 getting coffee and dude in line was like, you look like a prime robbery suspect with that thing. He was right.
The only thing I can honestly recommend is the glass. I've used that 80mm on a GFX 50SII and it was magic. Some professionals say they aren't as good as GFX glass, but whatever. One of the smoothest operating experiences between mismatched gear I've ever had.