One thing I learned about designing parts in plastic for injection molding that would work well here is to design in imperfections IE: parting lines, simple steps, fillets and other tricks where any two pieces come together rather than trying to make them line up perfectly. If you design in artificial or fake steps/separations wherever two parts connect, the imperfections will look like part of the design rather than two parts that align almost perfectly but not enough that they aren't obvious seams.
I learned that 3D printing as a hobby or a business is basically being a product designer, cad draftie, manufacturing techie, quality control engineer, & factory assembler. I'm not sure I have the skills or the patience for that, but nice to see what could be achieved. Appalling material imho, that can't take rough handling is surely something the material scientists need to fix, otherwise the whole concept is very limited.
Great video, good stuff! Only complaint is mis-using the word tolerance. The whole maker community seems to do this. It’s clearance. Tolerance is a +/- value (typically centered on the nominal dimension) that the machine can do repeatedly. Design clearance (gap) needs to be more than the tolerance of both parts (stacked up) to ensure a clearance fit.
You can print super clean supports by printing the support with a different material. PLA and PETG wont stick together so the interface layer is super clean and removing the support is easy. Preferably you design with the limitations of the process in mind. So you would just design the whole shape different if you want to mass produce a 3D printed lamp. One final note: Insane production quality!
Really well filmed and edited! And really awesome seeing the design process. And such a cool lamp! I've been 3d-printing for a while but haven't made any models myself yet but this video inspired me to start learning!
Шикарная работа. Здорово, что показываете и неудачные моменты, а то иногда складывается чувство что все вокруг умеют моделировать и печатать, один я делаю по 7-10 прототипов.
Спасибо вам. Я кстати пришёл к тому, что если подольше посидеть за моделью, прототипов намного меньше выходит. Я прям неприлично долго полирую модель, пока в тупик не приду где без печати не понять, и только потом печатаю
Hey, thank you for the video! It is very accessible and inspiring! I am a UG student researching into 3d printing mostly. I have a few suggestions on how you could improve the design: 1) From my experience, if your printer size allows, you can print the stand in a single piece and bend it using a heat gun / hairdryer+time. To make it perfect, cover parts you do not want to be bent with a few sheets of foil or other insulation. You may also consider making a bend against a some tube (e.g. chair gas-lift) so the radius is consistent and the corner is 90º exactly. 2) You may want to make the stand heavier for better stability and more solid feeling of the piece. One way is to have several internal slots in the base and fill them with something heavy (m3 nuts, sand, small stones) misprint so it gets fused inside. 3) I really like how you played with the wire on the back of the lamp, it both works and looks grate! But maybe you would prefer a "cordfree" design. In the same way, you can bury a cable inside your print by putting it in a slot mid-print so it is permanently covered over with layers of plastic. And, anyway, thank you a lot for such a video!
Hi Max, wow, one big comment. 1. Yeah, the heat gun was suggested already, I will definitely look into it. 2. The lamp is actually really stable, but the production model will be from steel, so it’s no issue, it will be heavy enough)) 3. Cordless design, would be completely different design, we will leave this for the upcoming lamps. Thank you so much for the advices and kind words. Good luck with your studies!
I think you're definitely missing the point suggesting to hide the cable. It's clearly a deliberate design decision and a standout component of the overall look.
Mate... What a work. I mean, not only the lamp(s) design(s) are amazing, but the video editing, the storytelling, the printing tips etc, everything is nice, works together, and hop, 8mn has passed. Brilliant, like and subscribe done. See you soon in another. Well done buddy
hi, i currently live in China, so i ordered from local shops, but these three might be correct: if not, i can modify the model for them, if you provide the dimensions www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Adapter-Resistant-Converts-Standard/dp/B00IJUNQXG?ref_=ast_slp_dp&th=1 - socket www.amazon.com/JKLcom-Halogen-Equivalent-Chandelier-Dimmable/dp/B07XSMXFHC/ref=sr_1_98?crid=65AYH94JQYBZ&keywords=e27+led+bulb+12w&qid=1703336899&sprefix=e27+led+bulb+12w%2Caps%2C368&sr=8-98 - bulbs www.amazon.com/dp/B08XMR8LNW/ref=twister_B08TB4VJZB?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 - cord
Interesting approach to the video, good level of 3D design, cool recordings, use of audio. New subscriber here. Atte. A 3D Maker from a few years ago in 3D Printing.
Love it bro but one tip for the initial print for the body. You could of printed the whole thing flat, then print a jig for the radius you want then use a heat gun to bend the arm up. This allows you have optimal layer orientation and still the final form.
Hmm, might work. You'd have to do it very slowly and heat very evenly on all sides. Even so, the sides would probably fold out, so you'd need to brace them as you're bending to keep them perpendicular to the other faces. It's trickier with 3D prints than bending wood or moulded parts because prints are anisotropic due to their hollowness and infill.
Hi, thanks, i use Artlist. here is what i used in this video: 0:05-1:30 Solid Ground - Roie Shpigler 1:30-03:17 Flint - Lets go again 03:20-4:42 Shake your style - Stefano Mastronardi 04:42- Yonnie Dror - Seven raindrops Outro - Juvenile-Things Like That
The whole intro describes the whole reason why 3d-printing is best utilized for prototyping rather than actually finished products. It's a lot faster and more precise than trying things out with cardboard and the like, but once you know what your end product is going to be it's usually better to use some other method.
This video was excellent. For the build process, the production quality was brilliant. At the end, I'd have liked to see a few, slower shots of the finished lamp as it was rather difficult to get a feel for how it looked. You've got 3 seconds of it actually switched on, then some black & white footage as you route the cable. I feel like a few slower shots from different angles would have really helped
@@alimp_designs ахахах, сам сейчас в Китае, на учёбе по обмену, про Таобао знаю, но нужно заказать провод в России, так что не вариант. Спасибо за ответ
Nicely done, Great cable management, but the fragility problem seems worse than my results, try adjusting the setting on your slicer and don't dry the filament completely at about 40% to 45% relative humidity is the sweet spot otherwise, the plastic becomes brittle.
tuning your printer will help a lot with at least two of your issues.. your layer walls seem really inconsistent which will not be helping with strength nor tolerances
Very nice design. You could try to make the inner sides of the records more reflective. Some bright white paint maybe, to get some diffuse light on the wall behind it. Though that may not even be the desired effect. After all this is your lamp, so build it like you want to :-)
Hi, thanks. White paint on the inner side was an initial design actually, but the raw record diffused as much light as a white surface. You can also see some special effect when camera is exactly perpendicular to the record, at the end of the video, that also can’t be achieved with a painted inner side.
Very nice model... I would done a bit differently. It has and still think a weakness in the part you broke... It Is not good to me. Seems to easy to break. First of all with 3d printed models is to make strong model and after that make a nice design...otherwise it's just waste of time and resources. It seems as you done that except one piece that is one of the most important in this object. This can be fixed and might not look that nice...but better so you can trust what you printed. One solution can be to print 45 degree angle if possible... It should give extra strength... I have not done this with any model...but I have had thoughts to test this 🤔 Of course it will be tricky and might not be great as a solution
I liked the project and content! I have a little feedback on the video. There are a lot of very short cuts that made it difficult to appreciate what you were showing or to read the words and look at the scene. These cuts may seem ok for you when editing because you already know the content. The other thing I'd comment on is using white text on a light yellow background. Using a greater contrast makes it easier to read. If you have less-young (I'm not calling anyone old!) viewers, both longer cuts and easier to read text will be appreciated, and may determine if they want to watch more. Best wishes! (Subscribed to see how your channel grows!)
Hi, appreciate your long feedback a lot) unfortunately, I don’t know how to keep both parties engaged😁, content without short cuts and fancy texts-gets boring fast and people quit. But I’m not giving up, will look for ways to make content entertaining for both generations😄🙌🏻
@@alimp_designs @alimp_designs You don't need to make the cuts a minute long, but check some of them out around 1:40 to 2:30; they're maybe a second, a second or two. You could double some and not lose people's attention. Those are the ones I'm thinking of. Thanks for taking feedback positively!
Хорошее видео, англ подтянется со временем. Лампы это хорошее направление. Но конкретно эта меня не заинтересовала, может следущие , будут интересней. Смолой хорошие кристалы получаются , даже без фотополимерника. Подпишусь пока что на канал.
Порой надо заниматься тем, что месяцами сначала не приносит денег, даже на пару сосисок в день, чтоб состояться. А на счёт акцента, лучше за грамматику переживать, чем за него. Как видишь, с акцентом проблемы у тебя, русскоязычного, а не у англоговорящих🦭
One thing I learned about designing parts in plastic for injection molding that would work well here is to design in imperfections IE: parting lines, simple steps, fillets and other tricks where any two pieces come together rather than trying to make them line up perfectly. If you design in artificial or fake steps/separations wherever two parts connect, the imperfections will look like part of the design rather than two parts that align almost perfectly but not enough that they aren't obvious seams.
I learned that 3D printing as a hobby or a business is basically being a product designer, cad draftie, manufacturing techie, quality control engineer, & factory assembler.
I'm not sure I have the skills or the patience for that, but nice to see what could be achieved.
Appalling material imho, that can't take rough handling is surely something the material scientists need to fix, otherwise the whole concept is very limited.
Impressed here with the production quality, the design process, the product and did I say production quality? Keep it up Art!
Thanks man🙌🏻
Great video, good stuff! Only complaint is mis-using the word tolerance. The whole maker community seems to do this. It’s clearance. Tolerance is a +/- value (typically centered on the nominal dimension) that the machine can do repeatedly. Design clearance (gap) needs to be more than the tolerance of both parts (stacked up) to ensure a clearance fit.
Thanks for correcting, noted!
pretty cool design and video! 👏😎
Hi, there is still a giveaway going if you are interested.. 😁
jk, thank you))
You can print super clean supports by printing the support with a different material. PLA and PETG wont stick together so the interface layer is super clean and removing the support is easy.
Preferably you design with the limitations of the process in mind. So you would just design the whole shape different if you want to mass produce a 3D printed lamp.
One final note: Insane production quality!
Beautiful video, score and effects had me transfixed.
You have some insane design skills!
Please don't stop, you are great! Excellent design!
I won’t)) this is my living now. Thank you Kirill🙌🏻
I like the acoustic music 🤗
Really well filmed and edited! And really awesome seeing the design process. And such a cool lamp! I've been 3d-printing for a while but haven't made any models myself yet but this video inspired me to start learning!
@Ephoxia Awesome, that's the goal, to inspire you guys))
Шикарная работа.
Здорово, что показываете и неудачные моменты, а то иногда складывается чувство что все вокруг умеют моделировать и печатать, один я делаю по 7-10 прототипов.
Спасибо вам.
Я кстати пришёл к тому, что если подольше посидеть за моделью, прототипов намного меньше выходит. Я прям неприлично долго полирую модель, пока в тупик не приду где без печати не понять, и только потом печатаю
a really well edited and nice video... SUBBED!
Hey, thank you for the video! It is very accessible and inspiring! I am a UG student researching into 3d printing mostly. I have a few suggestions on how you could improve the design:
1) From my experience, if your printer size allows, you can print the stand in a single piece and bend it using a heat gun / hairdryer+time. To make it perfect, cover parts you do not want to be bent with a few sheets of foil or other insulation. You may also consider making a bend against a some tube (e.g. chair gas-lift) so the radius is consistent and the corner is 90º exactly.
2) You may want to make the stand heavier for better stability and more solid feeling of the piece. One way is to have several internal slots in the base and fill them with something heavy (m3 nuts, sand, small stones) misprint so it gets fused inside.
3) I really like how you played with the wire on the back of the lamp, it both works and looks grate! But maybe you would prefer a "cordfree" design. In the same way, you can bury a cable inside your print by putting it in a slot mid-print so it is permanently covered over with layers of plastic.
And, anyway, thank you a lot for such a video!
Hi Max, wow, one big comment.
1. Yeah, the heat gun was suggested already, I will definitely look into it.
2. The lamp is actually really stable, but the production model will be from steel, so it’s no issue, it will be heavy enough))
3. Cordless design, would be completely different design, we will leave this for the upcoming lamps.
Thank you so much for the advices and kind words. Good luck with your studies!
I think you're definitely missing the point suggesting to hide the cable. It's clearly a deliberate design decision and a standout component of the overall look.
@@Turabbo you are absolutely right! Cable is a highlight of this design. I am just proposing a theoretical completely different one ;)
great project
respect ! amazing Video
Mate... What a work. I mean, not only the lamp(s) design(s) are amazing, but the video editing, the storytelling, the printing tips etc, everything is nice, works together, and hop, 8mn has passed. Brilliant, like and subscribe done. See you soon in another. Well done buddy
This is so sick
Great video showing the trials of 3D Printed design. Although wouldn’t change it for the world😂
Excellent filming!
And the content as well🤩
Where did you get the lighting elements (the red wire and the socket)? thankyou
hi, i currently live in China, so i ordered from local shops, but these three might be correct: if not, i can modify the model for them, if you provide the dimensions
www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Adapter-Resistant-Converts-Standard/dp/B00IJUNQXG?ref_=ast_slp_dp&th=1 - socket
www.amazon.com/JKLcom-Halogen-Equivalent-Chandelier-Dimmable/dp/B07XSMXFHC/ref=sr_1_98?crid=65AYH94JQYBZ&keywords=e27+led+bulb+12w&qid=1703336899&sprefix=e27+led+bulb+12w%2Caps%2C368&sr=8-98 - bulbs
www.amazon.com/dp/B08XMR8LNW/ref=twister_B08TB4VJZB?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 - cord
@@alimp_designs thankyou, did I you add the switch into the wire?
@Freddy-zq6vi nope, the one I ordered already had it
Нравится твой вкус, есть эстетика своя у видосов твоих, и оч нравится какой ты арсенал инструментов используешь, короче уважуха и лайк!
Спасибо!
Excellent
Interesting approach to the video, good level of 3D design, cool recordings, use of audio. New subscriber here.
Atte. A 3D Maker from a few years ago in 3D Printing.
Amazing! I like+subscribe !
You shocking me with your ideas man,I wish we can work with you in a future InshaAllah
Cool vid! Love the explanation of joints!
What is the name of the outro songs?
Hi, thanks, it's "Juvenile-Things Like That"
great vid!
Beautifully shot!
Love it bro but one tip for the initial print for the body. You could of printed the whole thing flat, then print a jig for the radius you want then use a heat gun to bend the arm up. This allows you have optimal layer orientation and still the final form.
Hi, thanks! I’ve actually tried it on a smaller scale, it didn’t work, it damaged too much. Will definitely look into this!
Hmm, might work. You'd have to do it very slowly and heat very evenly on all sides. Even so, the sides would probably fold out, so you'd need to brace them as you're bending to keep them perpendicular to the other faces.
It's trickier with 3D prints than bending wood or moulded parts because prints are anisotropic due to their hollowness and infill.
Really nice product and the video production is amazing 😊
beautifuly done ☺️
Вы тоже подумали о том, как было бы прикольно если бы пластинка еще и проигрывалась? супер!
Хира май солюшонс надо сделать девизом канала;)
Any sources on RUclips to learn to build basic projects like these
Hi, I learned a lot from @DesignGoBrr (Gediminas Kirdeikis)
Amazing production quality keep it up. wants to know the source of the sound used in this video
Hi, thanks, i use Artlist.
here is what i used in this video:
0:05-1:30 Solid Ground - Roie Shpigler
1:30-03:17 Flint - Lets go again
03:20-4:42 Shake your style - Stefano Mastronardi
04:42- Yonnie Dror - Seven raindrops
Outro - Juvenile-Things Like That
@@alimp_designs Thanks :)
The whole intro describes the whole reason why 3d-printing is best utilized for prototyping rather than actually finished products. It's a lot faster and more precise than trying things out with cardboard and the like, but once you know what your end product is going to be it's usually better to use some other method.
So where is the STL?
What was that music?? It out me into a trance haha
Great video, and your editing is excellent wtf?! How long did this take you to produce?!!
Thank you 🙌🏻, this video took me a week to edit and about two weeks to shoot and design. That’s full time, maybe even a lil more than full time😁
This video was excellent. For the build process, the production quality was brilliant. At the end, I'd have liked to see a few, slower shots of the finished lamp as it was rather difficult to get a feel for how it looked. You've got 3 seconds of it actually switched on, then some black & white footage as you route the cable. I feel like a few slower shots from different angles would have really helped
Thank you 🙌🏻 yeah, I will start doing this for my next projects, for now, you can check out my instagram page, there are some posts about it
you should really put cnc kitchen somewhere in the video or description when using his clips
Excellent vid! Great rundown of tips, and very nice seeing the design process laid out the way you did. New subscriber!
Thank you! Happy to be of help))
nice
I need to know which cnc router is that?
@@cupdejello snapmaker 3in1
Some bloggers say, that after some calibration, you printer will start to print correctly sizes, and you can start modeling without “tolerance”.
I’ve seen horizontal hole expansion in cura, but it’s useless for complex models. Can you share an exact video calibrating printer please?
What kind of CNC is that? Awesome Video btw ✌️
Hi, thanks, it’s a snapmaker a350t.
@@alimp_designs Thanks for the quick response! 🤘
Nice job have you tried resin 3d prints yet?
hi, thanks, I haven’t, I need to get one!
@@alimp_designs where are you located?
China, currently
@@alimp_designs Hmm ok I found get some printed stuff for you true work, but shipping to china might be troublesome.
And expensive
Hello, can you please tell me what wire did you used for this project?
@@ФедорЗырянов-т5и дешманский китайский ноунейм, текстура называется marble
@@alimp_designs а можешь сказать где заказывал? На алиэкспрессе?
@@ФедорЗырянов-т5и нет, я в Китае живу, таобао здесь маркет называется, в России не работает он
@@alimp_designs ахахах, сам сейчас в Китае, на учёбе по обмену, про Таобао знаю, но нужно заказать провод в России, так что не вариант. Спасибо за ответ
@@ФедорЗырянов-т5и я думал ты про PLA спрашиваешь. Провод на амазоне могу ссылку дать, если в России работает?
Outstanding work! Why did you stick to that flimsy design? If you had to have it that way, it's better to make it a lot thicker diametrically.
Hi, thanks for your feedback. That flimsy part is almost decorative, it’s like questioning chandelier’s glass decors
I’ve had the wrong tolerance for the smaller vinyl record, that’s why it broke in video
Love the design and the whole production quality, but you need to calibrate your printer for sure.
What fillament did you use for the lamp?
Hi, it’s PLA
Yeah great video. Did you have the brand and type of filament that had the speckled flakes in it? Looks awesome!
It’s a marble one, can’t help you with the brand tho, it’s local, nameless
Nicely done, Great cable management, but the fragility problem seems worse than my results, try adjusting the setting on your slicer and don't dry the filament completely at about 40% to 45% relative humidity is the sweet spot otherwise, the plastic becomes brittle.
ALiMP makes ALaMP... 😂
Hello very nice!
Is the design somewhere to download or buy? I want to make one.
@Martin_SV Just email "free stuff" to this address> alimp.design@gmail.com, you are still one of the first 20 people))
tuning your printer will help a lot with at least two of your issues.. your layer walls seem really inconsistent which will not be helping with strength nor tolerances
4:45 who is the artist ? what is the name of this song ? many thanks in advance to anybody that help me out here ;)
Yonnie Dror - seven raindrops
Very nice design. You could try to make the inner sides of the records more reflective. Some bright white paint maybe, to get some diffuse light on the wall behind it. Though that may not even be the desired effect. After all this is your lamp, so build it like you want to :-)
Hi, thanks. White paint on the inner side was an initial design actually, but the raw record diffused as much light as a white surface. You can also see some special effect when camera is exactly perpendicular to the record, at the end of the video, that also can’t be achieved with a painted inner side.
Спасибо за видео!
всегда пожалуйста))
Is this insanely custom thing better than a cheap thing from IKEA? lmao good question bro
Very nice model... I would done a bit differently. It has and still think a weakness in the part you broke... It Is not good to me. Seems to easy to break. First of all with 3d printed models is to make strong model and after that make a nice design...otherwise it's just waste of time and resources. It seems as you done that except one piece that is one of the most important in this object. This can be fixed and might not look that nice...but better so you can trust what you printed. One solution can be to print 45 degree angle if possible... It should give extra strength... I have not done this with any model...but I have had thoughts to test this 🤔 Of course it will be tricky and might not be great as a solution
Notes taken📝 thanks! Production model will be from abs plastic, and printed one holds up okay, so it’s fine for now)
I say it quick and keep it short: Somethings aren't meant to be 3D Printed.
I liked the project and content! I have a little feedback on the video. There are a lot of very short cuts that made it difficult to appreciate what you were showing or to read the words and look at the scene. These cuts may seem ok for you when editing because you already know the content. The other thing I'd comment on is using white text on a light yellow background. Using a greater contrast makes it easier to read. If you have less-young (I'm not calling anyone old!) viewers, both longer cuts and easier to read text will be appreciated, and may determine if they want to watch more. Best wishes! (Subscribed to see how your channel grows!)
Hi, appreciate your long feedback a lot) unfortunately, I don’t know how to keep both parties engaged😁, content without short cuts and fancy texts-gets boring fast and people quit. But I’m not giving up, will look for ways to make content entertaining for both generations😄🙌🏻
Yellow background and white text won’t happen again, that I promise))
@@alimp_designs @alimp_designs You don't need to make the cuts a minute long, but check some of them out around 1:40 to 2:30; they're maybe a second, a second or two. You could double some and not lose people's attention. Those are the ones I'm thinking of. Thanks for taking feedback positively!
@@DavZell noted 📝 thank you for your feedback, I agree, those cuts could be improved)
I am more interested in how you, or someone else, put together this video.
I will make a video on that, when the channel grows, so that it’s backed up by some achievements.
Хорошее видео, англ подтянется со временем. Лампы это хорошее направление. Но конкретно эта меня не заинтересовала, может следущие , будут интересней. Смолой хорошие кристалы получаются , даже без фотополимерника. Подпишусь пока что на канал.
если это занятие приносит бабосы на которые можно пару сосисок в день сожрать - ну а чо, норм тогда 😉
но акцент у тебя всё же пздц 😂
Порой надо заниматься тем, что месяцами сначала не приносит денег, даже на пару сосисок в день, чтоб состояться.
А на счёт акцента, лучше за грамматику переживать, чем за него. Как видишь, с акцентом проблемы у тебя, русскоязычного, а не у англоговорящих🦭
больно смотреть
вы что одни курсы проходите
как роботы одинаковые все
honestly it looks ugly
My first negative comment 🥳
Yeah I didn't think it looked that good either 🤷🏾♂️
...
Ты русский???
@@Or_low я русский. Из Туркменистана))
Can you share the stl files?
Sorry, only through patreon now (5$)