Clear plastic rod at the tune of about 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter to go through the right foot into the leg for torsion support. You can then polish the rod and make it practically invisible. Maybe even throw some L.E.D. strips in strategic defused locations on the base and statue to give the illusion of how powerful Magneto is. Just my 2 cents. Awesome work though. Always impressed with what you produce!!!!
Madman!!! And we cannot be happier that you picked up a Wicked model for it!!! Muchas gracias for giving our art a go and can't wait to see more of that beast, my dear amigo!!!! Lots of love from all the team and happy printing!!!
Hell yeah king! We need more life sized statue prints! For the rod - a deck flagpole holder will work as a great base for PVC piping to hold him upright. I'd also make the pole go as far through the leg as possible Good luck!
I make statues like this for work, what we often do is have a welded steel armature inside and then build the hollowed out prints around the outside. You can then fill in the gaps with foam to keep everything nice and solid. Make sure the base is nice and chunky as well, consider hollowing out the base and filling it with something heavy like metal/sand/concrete to keep it from tipping over. I would also recommend doing more than just 3d gloop to hold the printed parts together. It works great between the parts yell, but I find its always best practice to overengineer the support between the parts and actually melt the plastic at the seems and hand sculpt back in any details that get messed up by that. It sucks when you are putting on the arm and then it just falls apart because the glue between didn't set up properly. Good Luck, can't wait to see how this turns out!
Hey Jessy, Depending on what the final weight is, since you have the inside hollowed out, perhaps you could build an inner frame using either PVC or the thinnest rebar and then you could use expanding foam to set that in place. If using rebar, you could potentially have it enter in through that tab and it will be completely hidden.
OMG! LUBAN 3-D is a game changer! I’ve been looking for something that puts you in alignment pins forever! Thanks for the heads up, UJ! It would also be great, if you could do a separate video on changing the size of the pieces using Prusa.
In terms of allowing him to float, there does exist Clear PVC tubing used for furniture [if you look up furniture pvc, it will come up in multiple colors.] Along with a solid base, that should help him stand
To maintain the flight look its possible to make a mounting bracket going along his back under the cape going down to the ground, or also bracing up along the leg closest to the ground
Did this last year with a Life-Size Star Wars action figure. Vintage Kenner Boba Fett is in my basement... standing about 6' tall! It's a TON of work. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
for teh floating look i can recommend embedding rebar into the print from teh toe all the way up the leg and backfilling with PU rigid foam, I made a 7 ft tall armored core model and i got it to stand on a leg that way
Print the surrounding elements and attach some transparent fishing wire or something similar. On the other end attach in various points to magneto. If tense enough it should support the full weight of it and also make it actually look like it is floating
Use a clear acrylic rod ran up into his feet. You can also print a solid pad and add acrylic pieces that you can light from within to give off a glow of his power.
I'm getting a 3d scanner capable of scanning my entire body, so my plan is to make a life size mannequin for cosplay and fashion. This will be a great series to watch for this process. I will have 2 large FDM printers so I should be able to do less pieces.
Definetly a metal rod under the foot, and one on the original peg, that goes up till the neck. A metal structure under the base where the rod can be attached and to give the base more weight to stand still.
Metal pipe or conduit could work really well to support it. You would need to use something like expanding foam to fill around the pipe to connect it to the hollow parts of the print.
*I'm glad that you actually showed the whole process, I really want to make a custom 3D model for a heel design, what do you think is the best way to get started with this? I have sketches, a clay model, and I wanna 3D print it with similar dimensions*
If you can find some beefy rocks, maybe ones that are a bit jagged, you could spray them metal tones so they look like giant pieces of ore (since it's Magneto, afterall) and wedge them under the boots as if he's standing on them. If that fails, I'm not sure how wide your contacts range in specialties, but maybe a couple of slices of metal girders, like the ones used for making skyscrapers. Those could look cool too, even if just turned vertically and having him standing on them.
I think you can lookup some Diorama techniques on how to do electricity/energy, Magneto is often seen with electricity or energy flowing, you can use a rod that goes trough the body and use some leds that might help obscure the rod
You could use a 2in clear acrylic round rod would work drill a whole in the boot and base and because it is clear you will see right through it and it will not take away from the print.
To support Magneto it would be cool if you incorporate the support into the base. Kind of like a hidden but functional support. Ideas like broken cement with the rebar pole hanging between clumps of cement (using foam or print as the cement) and wooden dowels / pvc as the metal bar.
Consider the rods and plate bases for some pipe-n-drape curtains. Those are really heavy duty and are made to lift curtains 20+ feet high. I'd also say designing a base for Magneto with the rods and base so it looks clean and seamless.
If you make sure that the parts are properly sealed using a metal pipe core and expandable foam could be an option for strength but also keeping the weight down.
I agree with the clear acrylic rod to support it. One in each leg. You could even do multiple smaller rods and run lights into the base. Not sure if it would look good or not though.
I'd recommend looking up terms like "finding the centre of mass on an irregular object" so that you can determine where the centre of mass is in 3 dimensions. I say that because it looks like even with the base it may still have a slightly forward heavy centre of mass. If that is the case then you can add weight (either by printing it in) or adding it after printing to the area(s) that will help balance it when it's in its final form. The process is relatively straightforward you just need to hang the final assembled model by different points and use a plumb line with a weight to mark where the lines intersect across the 3d geometry. Ideally you want the centre of mass to be as close to the centre of the model as possible so just add weight to counteract any forward, backward or side to side instability based on your measurements. If you're connecting to the base I'd go for some clear acrylic rods with a decent thickness and maybe even hid them by using cotton wool matting and adding led lights underneath to make it look like he's kicking up dust as he's lifting off and the light is shining out from within the dust cloud.
In the brief shot of the STL file, it looks like the cape itself is touching the base. If that's the case you can work with that to make the cape slightly more rigid and act as a harness assisting him in staying up, especially since a bit of it wraps beneath his Lats. Like how the street performers fool people that they're levitating. That along with the little slat maybe enough.
@@UncleJessy you probably could still use a fabric cape. To cut down on weight you can cut down on the overall support portion of the cape to the bare minimum and then using a bit of stage craft and glue, you can lay the fabric cape over it to disguise the “support cape” portion. By matching the color of the “support arm” for lack of a better term, to the fabric you can still keep the realistic look and cut down on weight! Just have to get the support proportions down! 🤔
@@UncleJessy if you look up “Tamashii Nations Bandai stage”, you can see what I have in my head as far as breaking the support down to a bare minimum. You can use that arm and harness style with the shape of the Cape, since it looks like it’s almost shaped that way within the STL. Then after getting him upright and stable. Lay the cape over the top!
This couldn’t have dropped at a better time, I finally got my Neptune 2S and Neptune X all ready to go and wanted to print off a live sized Tonberry from Final Fantasy that I could put in the garden with one of those LED Tea light candles for his lamp
Recently picked up some of that new Elegoo PLA+ after you linked it on Twitter. Have to say, super impressed so far, performs great at about 2/3 of the cost of the eSun I was using. Going to be my new workhorse for sure.
Dude, I got a twin pack of the Elegoo black (since I ran out after printing a dice tower recently), and yeah. Despite a couple of reviews saying it's unprintable, it's performing really nicely with my default print settings!
@@BloodyAngel88 the ROLL is so much better than what I'm used to. No problems at all unspooling and it's working great with my Neptune 3 Pro. 215 Nozzle, 60 bed. Just clean clean prints.
I would go with a metal rod welded to a heavy plate. PVC will for sure flex and plastic might snap. Also, if you can somehow remove the cape parts of the model, I would do that out of fabric with wire embedded to shape it.
3dwicked is the best at what they do!!! I’ve been there a year and have so many great characters and even autobots to print. I’m never leaving. Have you seen the Thanos and death?
This really is the dream print. I'll never print at this scale, 1/6th is already at my limit but wow, it would be something to do one piece full size. Anyway if it were me I would put up a shelf at waist height that pokes out of the wall then cut a slot in the back of the figure at waist height, inject a load of expanding foam then slide it onto the shelf piece so the character is floating in the air when seen from the front. It should just slide off that shelf if you ever need to move it. Unless I planned on wanting it to be seen in different locations then I'd probably want a good base with a rod but just the right spot where you want it to live almost permanently? yeah id do it floating off the ground and support behind the model
I think I'd go for a strong monofilament and hang it from the ceiling so it's REALLY floating. You can get fishing line from Amazon that'll support 70 pounds and it's very thin and also clear.
I just printed this model (1/6 with the dome). The actual model doesn't just hold itself in the lateral leg connection, it touches the stone a bit with the side of the shoes, which gives it a much better support, it a lot sturdier than it looked before, maybe you should give it a try
How about suspending it to the ceiling with a couple of hi-strengh fishing wires? Will definitely look like he's hovering, won't cost much and leave only small holes in the pla.
Aluminium rods for support comes to mind. Maybe even CF ? depending to the size and weight and so on. I used Glas fiber or CF rods back in the day for my RC Planes. Wooden Broom handle would also work. Problem is IDK what kind of weight and forces we are talking about here.
What about one of those really big magnets people go magnet fishing with in the boot. Another in the base set so it's like poles facing (so it repels). Then have a stand behind it with another magnet pair. One in the stand over the model and one in Magneto's helmet. This time with opposite poles so they attract, but not enough actual power to lift the entire model (+ repulsion) to stick, just enough to keep it centred. That or fill it with iron filings and employ the actual Magneto to levitate it :)
I'm a bit confused about the nozzle size and layer height. With a .4 nozzle you can easily print at .28 layer height and you'll get finer details (not that it matters at this scale). And depending in your infill and wall settings you can use less plastic than with the bigger nozzle
what a wonderfull project! maybe using a polycarbonate tube because it s solid and transluscent. pvc tube in the foot which is in contact withe the base and polycarbonate for "the one in the air" .
Lowest cost to strength ratio welded steel inner frame. One solid rod traveling through bottom of one foot up through leg and torso. Branch off for arms and other leg. PVC is gonna still be very flimsy at smaller diameters.
To suspend it above the base I'd say look at gas line pipe available at any hardwere store usally prethreaded at alot of defferant links and the hardwere store might be able to do custom lengths aswell... also there is flanges available that thread right on the pipe to make mounting to the base and to the guy super easy and strong
Maybe something that's not invisible, but totally visible on purpose: steel rods, normally used in concrete? Bend them upwards and embed the bottom in actual concrete, giving the statue a solid and heavy base. Kind of like he's just torn apart a concrete rooftop with the steel bars inside of it to float through.
What do u use to glue it together? I’m having issues with prints and getting them to be glued. I accidentally broke off an ear to a dragon. Can’t get it to stick back
Is there a way to transfer those Prusa slicer settings to Cura? I'm really digging the tree supports in that alpha release on the Neptune 3 Max, but still can't dial in my settings to be as clean as I should be
Or. Create a mold for stands that are fitted to his feet. Then cast in clear epoxy resin in a pressure pot or at least degass in a vacuum pot, which I have both and would be willing to help
Love this idea. Would love to something like this. I'm a patreon supporter and I've seen your profiles on there but is there anyway you could just post some screenshots of your printer settings on Prusa 2.6 for the max. I'm having trouble on some of my bigger prints with layer shift. I've got my z lift on and up to .4 but I'm still getting some grinding. Thought a look at your settings could point me the right direction.
Life size sub zero looks awesome. I guess I personally would only print 10% Infill and 3 outer layers and fillt it with hot glue and other stuff to make it structurally rigid but also light and fast in terms of print speed. Also you don´t need a 0.6mm Nozzle. I use a 0.4mm Nozzle and print in 0.8mm layer width. You can print almost any layer width with a 0.4mm Nozzle.
Just bought a CR-10 S5 because I planned on making life size Mandalorian (not Din Djarin) Just a mando statue. With that big of a printer wont have to cut down so small and less gluing. I figured you must have a few of them, and if so why didnt you print on that for less work?
neat project!... suspend it from the ceiling with some black (or dark color) fishing line... I bet some high test stranded line (with several mounting points) would easily hold it.
I have painted it on my Instagram little creatures and from my experience you will need a rod on the boots and a full solid type. You can also add some extra rocks to support the other leg. Hope that helps
I started my own first life size not long ago too, but I'm using ams and printing parts in colors right away to avoid painting I'm gonna run into the trouble of seems between parts tho
For support, your best bet would be to rig an armature through at least 1 leg, that would be fastened somewhere mid-thigh or waist. You'll probably want to figure that out, and potentially print one of the upper thigh sections not hollowed out, have something to fasten to the armature and have material to support the weight of the upper body You mentioned 12 lbs and you've done feet and calves...this thing is going to be HEAVY, i'd probably look at metal supports for sure (square tubing or conduit). You'll then take the armature and fasten that to some kind of base board.
Oh, thank god, they finally added a monthly option! I've been aware of and occasionally following LuBan 3d since I started resin printing back in mid-2020, and while I liked what I got in the trial, it was just far too much money, especially with the price raising drastically each time a new feature (that I had no interest in) got added. Very tempted to pick it up for a month and give this a try.
Clear plastic rod at the tune of about 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter to go through the right foot into the leg for torsion support. You can then polish the rod and make it practically invisible. Maybe even throw some L.E.D. strips in strategic defused locations on the base and statue to give the illusion of how powerful Magneto is. Just my 2 cents. Awesome work though. Always impressed with what you produce!!!!
If you need to add weight so it stands better you can add some to the pipe and or foot.
Madman!!! And we cannot be happier that you picked up a Wicked model for it!!! Muchas gracias for giving our art a go and can't wait to see more of that beast, my dear amigo!!!! Lots of love from all the team and happy printing!!!
Hell yeah king! We need more life sized statue prints!
For the rod - a deck flagpole holder will work as a great base for PVC piping to hold him upright. I'd also make the pole go as far through the leg as possible
Good luck!
Niiice exactly what I was thinking. Hollowing out the base to fit a umbrella stand then a rod up into the body. Maybe some support braces
I make statues like this for work, what we often do is have a welded steel armature inside and then build the hollowed out prints around the outside. You can then fill in the gaps with foam to keep everything nice and solid. Make sure the base is nice and chunky as well, consider hollowing out the base and filling it with something heavy like metal/sand/concrete to keep it from tipping over.
I would also recommend doing more than just 3d gloop to hold the printed parts together. It works great between the parts yell, but I find its always best practice to overengineer the support between the parts and actually melt the plastic at the seems and hand sculpt back in any details that get messed up by that. It sucks when you are putting on the arm and then it just falls apart because the glue between didn't set up properly.
Good Luck, can't wait to see how this turns out!
Hey Jessy, Depending on what the final weight is, since you have the inside hollowed out, perhaps you could build an inner frame using either PVC or the thinnest rebar and then you could use expanding foam to set that in place. If using rebar, you could potentially have it enter in through that tab and it will be completely hidden.
I can't wait to get into printing! I've got a ways to go, but really looking forward to it. So cool to see what you do! 💯
You design some aiming projects that for sure need to be printed!
these came out so cool! 👏😎
Thanks homie. More to come
@@UncleJessy day 9 for asking fir a giveaway
This is going to look SO AMAZING. I seriously can’t wait to see the finished product!
Chugging along 🙃
This is so cool!
Thanks man! Was just thinking about you and your awesome sweater sweatshirts today
OMG! LUBAN 3-D is a game changer! I’ve been looking for something that puts you in alignment pins forever! Thanks for the heads up, UJ!
It would also be great, if you could do a separate video on changing the size of the pieces using Prusa.
In terms of allowing him to float, there does exist Clear PVC tubing used for furniture [if you look up furniture pvc, it will come up in multiple colors.] Along with a solid base, that should help him stand
Oh you made my night!
To maintain the flight look its possible to make a mounting bracket going along his back under the cape going down to the ground, or also bracing up along the leg closest to the ground
happy to hear that you're doing magneto - one of my faves too! it'll be exciting to watch you build that monster
nice to see the shoutout to Aaron, he works hard and his statues are really nice
What a fantastic project! Cant wait to see the finished product.
This is a BANANAS project and you're a lunatic for attempting it.
Keep going!!!
Heck yeah. It’s a fun one
This is exciting seeing this done....and for this to be that decked out statue life size. 👊💥
Did this last year with a Life-Size Star Wars action figure. Vintage Kenner Boba Fett is in my basement... standing about 6' tall! It's a TON of work. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
for teh floating look i can recommend embedding rebar into the print from teh toe all the way up the leg and backfilling with PU rigid foam, I made a 7 ft tall armored core model and i got it to stand on a leg that way
The project is big, the 0.6mm nozzle is a good way to save time. always looking good !
I so want to do this too. That look so awesome and amazing 👏 can't wait to see it all put together.
Thats gonna be wicked af!!! Go uncle jessy gooooo, and gratz wicked , you guys are both BOSS !!
( Frank le tank )
I love printing spreadsheets. It the best way for me to keep track of any work I do.
Print the surrounding elements and attach some transparent fishing wire or something similar. On the other end attach in various points to magneto. If tense enough it should support the full weight of it and also make it actually look like it is floating
Use a clear acrylic rod ran up into his feet. You can also print a solid pad and add acrylic pieces that you can light from within to give off a glow of his power.
Awesome project. You can always hang it from the ceiling using two steel or nylon cables.
Maybe clear acrylic tubes in the feet if you want to me it look like its floating? And you could put led lights in the tubes for effects
I'm getting a 3d scanner capable of scanning my entire body, so my plan is to make a life size mannequin for cosplay and fashion. This will be a great series to watch for this process. I will have 2 large FDM printers so I should be able to do less pieces.
Definetly a metal rod under the foot, and one on the original peg, that goes up till the neck. A metal structure under the base where the rod can be attached and to give the base more weight to stand still.
Metal pipe or conduit could work really well to support it. You would need to use something like expanding foam to fill around the pipe to connect it to the hollow parts of the print.
Threaded rods, M6 thickness are pretty good for adding support inside these kinds of parts.
*I'm glad that you actually showed the whole process, I really want to make a custom 3D model for a heel design, what do you think is the best way to get started with this? I have sketches, a clay model, and I wanna 3D print it with similar dimensions*
Depending on the design Nomad sculpt is amazing and easy to get into
If you can find some beefy rocks, maybe ones that are a bit jagged, you could spray them metal tones so they look like giant pieces of ore (since it's Magneto, afterall) and wedge them under the boots as if he's standing on them. If that fails, I'm not sure how wide your contacts range in specialties, but maybe a couple of slices of metal girders, like the ones used for making skyscrapers. Those could look cool too, even if just turned vertically and having him standing on them.
Could make a base from XPS foam for him to stand on. Add some rods through the feet.
I think you can lookup some Diorama techniques on how to do electricity/energy, Magneto is often seen with electricity or energy flowing, you can use a rod that goes trough the body and use some leds that might help obscure the rod
You could use a 2in clear acrylic round rod would work drill a whole in the boot and base and because it is clear you will see right through it and it will not take away from the print.
To support Magneto it would be cool if you incorporate the support into the base. Kind of like a hidden but functional support. Ideas like broken cement with the rebar pole hanging between clumps of cement (using foam or print as the cement) and wooden dowels / pvc as the metal bar.
Oh damn now that is an awesome idea on having support but making it built into the statue
This is AWESOME Uncle Jessy! I hoped it would be Magneto when I read the title. You are a brave man to try and tackle this massive project
Heck yeah it is 😂🤘 thanks for checking it out
Consider the rods and plate bases for some pipe-n-drape curtains. Those are really heavy duty and are made to lift curtains 20+ feet high. I'd also say designing a base for Magneto with the rods and base so it looks clean and seamless.
If you make sure that the parts are properly sealed using a metal pipe core and expandable foam could be an option for strength but also keeping the weight down.
I agree with the clear acrylic rod to support it. One in each leg. You could even do multiple smaller rods and run lights into the base. Not sure if it would look good or not though.
I'd recommend looking up terms like "finding the centre of mass on an irregular object" so that you can determine where the centre of mass is in 3 dimensions. I say that because it looks like even with the base it may still have a slightly forward heavy centre of mass. If that is the case then you can add weight (either by printing it in) or adding it after printing to the area(s) that will help balance it when it's in its final form.
The process is relatively straightforward you just need to hang the final assembled model by different points and use a plumb line with a weight to mark where the lines intersect across the 3d geometry. Ideally you want the centre of mass to be as close to the centre of the model as possible so just add weight to counteract any forward, backward or side to side instability based on your measurements.
If you're connecting to the base I'd go for some clear acrylic rods with a decent thickness and maybe even hid them by using cotton wool matting and adding led lights underneath to make it look like he's kicking up dust as he's lifting off and the light is shining out from within the dust cloud.
In the brief shot of the STL file, it looks like the cape itself is touching the base. If that's the case you can work with that to make the cape slightly more rigid and act as a harness assisting him in staying up, especially since a bit of it wraps beneath his Lats. Like how the street performers fool people that they're levitating. That along with the little slat maybe enough.
Yeah was planning on doing a fabric cape to keep the weight down but like that idea
@@UncleJessy you probably could still use a fabric cape. To cut down on weight you can cut down on the overall support portion of the cape to the bare minimum and then using a bit of stage craft and glue, you can lay the fabric cape over it to disguise the “support cape” portion.
By matching the color of the “support arm” for lack of a better term, to the fabric you can still keep the realistic look and cut down on weight! Just have to get the support proportions down! 🤔
@@UncleJessy if you look up “Tamashii Nations Bandai stage”, you can see what I have in my head as far as breaking the support down to a bare minimum. You can use that arm and harness style with the shape of the Cape, since it looks like it’s almost shaped that way within the STL.
Then after getting him upright and stable. Lay the cape over the top!
This couldn’t have dropped at a better time, I finally got my Neptune 2S and Neptune X all ready to go and wanted to print off a live sized Tonberry from Final Fantasy that I could put in the garden with one of those LED Tea light candles for his lamp
Can't wait to see this completed!
Recently picked up some of that new Elegoo PLA+ after you linked it on Twitter. Have to say, super impressed so far, performs great at about 2/3 of the cost of the eSun I was using. Going to be my new workhorse for sure.
Dude, I got a twin pack of the Elegoo black (since I ran out after printing a dice tower recently), and yeah. Despite a couple of reviews saying it's unprintable, it's performing really nicely with my default print settings!
@@BloodyAngel88 the ROLL is so much better than what I'm used to. No problems at all unspooling and it's working great with my Neptune 3 Pro. 215 Nozzle, 60 bed. Just clean clean prints.
So far it’s been printing amazinf for me and done zero tweaks
Can't wait to see more of this!
I would go with a metal rod welded to a heavy plate. PVC will for sure flex and plastic might snap.
Also, if you can somehow remove the cape parts of the model, I would do that out of fabric with wire embedded to shape it.
3dwicked is the best at what they do!!! I’ve been there a year and have so many great characters and even autobots to print. I’m never leaving. Have you seen the Thanos and death?
This really is the dream print. I'll never print at this scale, 1/6th is already at my limit but wow, it would be something to do one piece full size. Anyway if it were me I would put up a shelf at waist height that pokes out of the wall then cut a slot in the back of the figure at waist height, inject a load of expanding foam then slide it onto the shelf piece so the character is floating in the air when seen from the front. It should just slide off that shelf if you ever need to move it. Unless I planned on wanting it to be seen in different locations then I'd probably want a good base with a rod but just the right spot where you want it to live almost permanently? yeah id do it floating off the ground and support behind the model
Depending on weight you could use some high test fishing line to suspend it fron the ceiling, monofilament to conceal the lines?
This is insane, but will be epic when completed.
Threaded rod would probably be the best way. Pvc is very thick and fiberglass rods aren't strong enough
I got my first couple of rolls of Elegoo PLA+ filament last week. I have not had any filament related errors. You can't beat it for the current price!
I think I'd go for a strong monofilament and hang it from the ceiling so it's REALLY floating. You can get fishing line from Amazon that'll support 70 pounds and it's very thin and also clear.
I just printed this model (1/6 with the dome). The actual model doesn't just hold itself in the lateral leg connection, it touches the stone a bit with the side of the shoes, which gives it a much better support, it a lot sturdier than it looked before, maybe you should give it a try
poured resin tube in the foot. It would be clear and keep that floating look
Love it
make it out of foam blocks held together with actual rebar for weight. paint it all up and use rebar to mount it to the base.
How about suspending it to the ceiling with a couple of hi-strengh fishing wires?
Will definitely look like he's hovering, won't cost much and leave only small holes in the pla.
Why not print thinner, then fill with expanding foam to make it more solid inside? Lexan supports for helping it stand stable in a hovering fashion.
He a chunky boy😂 but I like that idea
LOL. This feels like the frustration i went though with my 3d printed miata hard top
Aluminium rods for support comes to mind. Maybe even CF ? depending to the size and weight and so on. I used Glas fiber or CF rods back in the day for my RC Planes. Wooden Broom handle would also work. Problem is IDK what kind of weight and forces we are talking about here.
Idea for support:
Fill the back leg with a heavy like sand or metal powder so that the whole thing could pivot on it .
I think about perhaps drilling holes and making a PVC or aluminum armature or sort of internal skeleton to support the weight of the statue
What glue are you using? Also, I would love to see a video of resin printing care and clean up. :)
There needs to be a "run off" counter
Can't wait to see the end result!!! Oh yeah, since Elegoo sponsored your video, can you find out when the Plus and Max will be back in stock? Lol
What about one of those really big magnets people go magnet fishing with in the boot. Another in the base set so it's like poles facing (so it repels). Then have a stand behind it with another magnet pair. One in the stand over the model and one in Magneto's helmet. This time with opposite poles so they attract, but not enough actual power to lift the entire model (+ repulsion) to stick, just enough to keep it centred.
That or fill it with iron filings and employ the actual Magneto to levitate it :)
I'm a bit confused about the nozzle size and layer height.
With a .4 nozzle you can easily print at .28 layer height and you'll get finer details (not that it matters at this scale). And depending in your infill and wall settings you can use less plastic than with the bigger nozzle
what a wonderfull project! maybe using a polycarbonate tube because it s solid and transluscent. pvc tube in the foot which is in contact withe the base and polycarbonate for "the one in the air" .
I'm more interested in the gateway foundations plans for a Lagrange point station that rotates to generate artificial gravity.
How about instead of standing , mount to wall via something like a monitor wall bracket (with pivot arms) attached to the rear of model ?
That is insanely cool
Lowest cost to strength ratio welded steel inner frame. One solid rod traveling through bottom of one foot up through leg and torso. Branch off for arms and other leg.
PVC is gonna still be very flimsy at smaller diameters.
To suspend it above the base I'd say look at gas line pipe available at any hardwere store usally prethreaded at alot of defferant links and the hardwere store might be able to do custom lengths aswell... also there is flanges available that thread right on the pipe to make mounting to the base and to the guy super easy and strong
its going to be sooooooooo big
keep going
Acrylic Dowels in the base for foot and going up to upper leg and waist.
Maybe something that's not invisible, but totally visible on purpose: steel rods, normally used in concrete?
Bend them upwards and embed the bottom in actual concrete, giving the statue a solid and heavy base.
Kind of like he's just torn apart a concrete rooftop with the steel bars inside of it to float through.
Thank you for the great video!
Super cool!
What do u use to glue it together? I’m having issues with prints and getting them to be glued. I accidentally broke off an ear to a dragon. Can’t get it to stick back
Is there a way to transfer those Prusa slicer settings to Cura? I'm really digging the tree supports in that alpha release on the Neptune 3 Max, but still can't dial in my settings to be as clean as I should be
What wall thickness did you use in Luban when you hollowed this out? The default is 10. Yours looks thicker but I could be wrong.
is there any type of spray or coating to make resin prints stronger or more durable?
Amazing! I notice your on a mac. I’m unable to use LuBan on OS13. Are you able to?
@elegoo Any info when the Neptune 3 Max will be available to purchase? I want to buy it, but it is unavailable.
Or. Create a mold for stands that are fitted to his feet. Then cast in clear epoxy resin in a pressure pot or at least degass in a vacuum pot, which I have both and would be willing to help
Love this idea. Would love to something like this. I'm a patreon supporter and I've seen your profiles on there but is there anyway you could just post some screenshots of your printer settings on Prusa 2.6 for the max. I'm having trouble on some of my bigger prints with layer shift. I've got my z lift on and up to .4 but I'm still getting some grinding. Thought a look at your settings could point me the right direction.
Life size sub zero looks awesome. I guess I personally would only print 10% Infill and 3 outer layers and fillt it with hot glue and other stuff to make it structurally rigid but also light and fast in terms of print speed. Also you don´t need a 0.6mm Nozzle. I use a 0.4mm Nozzle and print in 0.8mm layer width. You can print almost any layer width with a 0.4mm Nozzle.
Just bought a CR-10 S5 because I planned on making life size Mandalorian (not Din Djarin) Just a mando statue. With that big of a printer wont have to cut down so small and less gluing. I figured you must have a few of them, and if so why didnt you print on that for less work?
Maybe some clear rigid acrylic tubes, I know Amazon and I think Walmart has some 1 inch diameter stuff.
neat project!... suspend it from the ceiling with some black (or dark color) fishing line... I bet some high test stranded line (with several mounting points) would easily hold it.
Heavy duty magnets, that way he floats.
maybe use some pvc pipes or rebar to hold him up and then use some pillow fluff so it looks like clouds or smoke
Love the cloud idea
I have painted it on my Instagram little creatures and from my experience you will need a rod on the boots and a full solid type. You can also add some extra rocks to support the other leg. Hope that helps
I started my own first life size not long ago too, but I'm using ams and printing parts in colors right away to avoid painting
I'm gonna run into the trouble of seems between parts tho
For support, your best bet would be to rig an armature through at least 1 leg, that would be fastened somewhere mid-thigh or waist. You'll probably want to figure that out, and potentially print one of the upper thigh sections not hollowed out, have something to fasten to the armature and have material to support the weight of the upper body You mentioned 12 lbs and you've done feet and calves...this thing is going to be HEAVY, i'd probably look at metal supports for sure (square tubing or conduit). You'll then take the armature and fasten that to some kind of base board.
Thanks! Yeah for sure looking at metal rods & maybe an umbrella stand in the base
I feel inspired!
Heck yeah man
Oh, thank god, they finally added a monthly option! I've been aware of and occasionally following LuBan 3d since I started resin printing back in mid-2020, and while I liked what I got in the trial, it was just far too much money, especially with the price raising drastically each time a new feature (that I had no interest in) got added. Very tempted to pick it up for a month and give this a try.