I'm halfway through the video... can we just take a moment to appreciate how well this guy speaks? Such a clear voice, clear information, no jump cuts, no BS... just... damn. Well done my guy.
what a pleasant surprise when you stumble on a youtube creator who talks like a human being and not a game show host! Very helpful for someone who is considering buying their first 3d printer, thanks!
Your explanation about those 2 types of devices just blow my head. We'll presented and exposed. Clearvinformation. Excellent pacing and clear voice. THANKS A LOT SIR, YOU ARE A GOD BETWEEN HUMANS.
You are a natural teacher. Excellent video. I have been printing with both FDM and Resin for several years now and often find myself explaining the difference. I will now be recommending this video to folks who are just getting started. The only thing I would have added would be a discussion of build volume and that for many people into gaming they have one of each: FDM for terrain and resin for figures. Cheers.
@@teddychathuant882 Judging by Johnandlissa's post, a filament printer would be best, unless you have lots of small intricate flourishes in the buildings facade. Which given the resultant real-world cost in the finished article, is not something the buildings owners are going to want.
@@FigureFeedback. - Thanks for all the info! Dunno if it's possible to do at this point, but you seemed to want to leave a video link card around 14:36
I've been watching so many videos on resin vs fdm printers and this is the best video I've seen. Just clearly and coherently explained comparison without any angle from the presenter. Thank you very much for your excellent video, your channel deserves a lot more subscribers
I also have both types of printers and find that PLA is best for large objects or simple objects while Resin is best for smaller more complex objects. I prefer using PLA when i can as it has less upkeep and cleaning needed between prints. nice vid
Very well explained, I agree with what you say from my experience Resin for small figures is better and easier for paint but I continue with filaments because it is more practical and cleaner, and more than with Printers like Bambu Lab that you don't have to do almost anything to adjust or assemble to print. It's as fast or faster than any resin and with a very good print quality.
I've had a resin printer for about a year, but only used it for about a month, specifically because of the mess (so many chemicals, needed different containers, and if you're in an apartment like I am, there's no way to have enough room to be practical about any part of the process), the toxic fumes (in an apartment there's next to no effective way to handle them), and how much effort it takes (not to mention that I was getting exclusively failed prints, even after getting perfect scores on the things used for calibrating your settings, like the cones of calibration. Only got 3 successful prints out of the thing). Considering getting a filament printer just to see if it'll do the jobs I need (heck, even being 50% less of a pain would be a godsend).
Interesting video. I got the Ender 3 V2 printer first, and had a hard time in getting it to print properly. Now it is printing ok. I was thinking of buying the resin printer, but after seeing all the mess and toxic smell, I decided not to go for it. After going through lot of RUclips videos, I bought the Bambu Lab P1P printer. I am very happy with it, easy setup, auto levelling, corexy, and 3 times faster than the Ender 3. All the prints on Bambu Lab came out excellent, as good as the resin printer output. It is worth spending some extra money and buy the Bambu Lab P1P. I recovered the cost within a month after selling some nice printed stuff. It is a game changer.
@@FigureFeedback Bambu Lab X1C with .2 Nozzle at 0.08-0.10 layer height rivals most resin printers. A few minor other setting modifications are sometimes necessary depending on the print.
@@AAw3s0m3 After some time now owning the Photon 6Ks and the M5s I would say, "No". Using a layer height of .05mm down to .02mm on the resin printers completely blows the doors off of my X1C's, even at its most detailed settings. For prints that are less detailed or complex, the X1C's do a great job, and are so much simpler and less messy to use.
Although everything said in this video is correct, the difficulties mentioned for FDM are mostly cause by choosing an ancient printer like the Ender 3 Pro. There are other printers (ex. Elegoo Neptune) in the $150-$200 range which only need 4 bolts to be fastened for assembly and have a better description on what to do. I have both SLA and FDM printers and the summary is simple: - SLA has way better resolution than FDM, i.e. details can be much more fine. You could fit a 0.2mm nozzle on the FDM printer, but that's still 200micron vs 50micron or lower for SLA. And FDM will have stringing and more support artefacts - SLA is a pain to process. I hardly use SLA because it's just such a mess to wash the print, then cure it (for which you need UV lamps which you did not mention), then cure and clean everything that touched the resin as you should not put uncured resin in the waste, after some prints you're stuck with IPA containing lots of uncured resin and need to filter that or replace it, ... And when you've printed a lot, you'll have to replace the FEP-sheet and some time later the LCD or even the UV LED array (although you might better get a new printer then). In short, SLA is just so much hassle, that I hardly use it. FDM on the other hand is just start the print, wait for it to finish, take it off the plate. And when you feel like it, wipe the PEI build sheet (not standard on the Ender 3 Pro) with some IPA. And sure, after lots and lots of printing there might be some bearing you'd have to replace or the nozzle, but all those things are nowhere near as annoying as having to protect you and everything else from poisonous resin.
Excellent comment. I 100% agree. What it boils down to is, what you want to print and the quality you want to print it. There is a lot more hassle, safety steps and process to using SLA, but if your looking for certain quality and don't mind the extra steps, that's the way to go. Higher quality FDM printers (not the Ender 3 Pro) with higher quality materials can get you similar results without all the hassle. He based his FDM experiences off the Creality machine, which could discourage others from FDM printing. I would suggest spending a little extra for a quality FDM printer if you want to avoid the toxicity of resin.
I've watched several videos as I'm itching to pull the trigger on 3d printing. Yours is by far the best. Thank you for putting this together. I don't know if it's something you enjoy, but your damn good at it.
Really well presented, I 3d print professionally, but I still watched this all the way just for the quality and clarity of presentation. Hope this channel gets big.
Great video, I was wanting the resin printer for miniatures but being in an apartment the fumes gave me pause. Really glad to see you can still get good quality prints for miniatures with filament. The ones you printed look great!
Hey mate , I've just seen your comment and wonder if working with filament has paid off for you since then? I want to start a little business and really need to know if filament based figures can be in good quality for sale? I would be really appreciate it if you can help me with your response Wish you all the best
Just got a hand-me-down Creality resin printer. Doing my 1st print tonight. This has been an interesting comparison. I'll be sure to check out your other video about cleaning & curing.
On the filament printers, spending just a little bit more will get you one (eg the Anycubic Kobra or Elegoo Neptune) with silent stepper drivers and quieter fans. Oh, and they usually come mostly assembled, have auto bed leveling, etc. On the material costs of resin vs filament, you will probably use more resin than you would filament for the same model as for figures you will generally be printing them 100% solid with resin, but much less than that with filament. The layer lines on filament prints can be easily dealt with - I've found that a couple of brushed on coats of Mod Podge (dry within 20 minutes in winter) filled in all but the worst ones for some figures I printed a short while ago. Another consideration is fragility of the models - resin is less flexible and more easily damaged/broken than filament prints.
You are not printing larger figures with resin. Or even smaller figures which are a single body. You can put holes for the resin to drain, and most programs come with auto-hollowers.
I am really glad I got a resin printer after using FDM for years. I use them both all the time for different applications. You are absolutely correct about the resin printer though, it just prints perfect all the time and outstanding quality. But I like my Sovol FDM and playing with the Sonic Pad too….
Some of these commenters are so whiny and entitled. This was a VERY good video for us beginners! Anyone going into resin should be able to evaluate health risks and protection themselves, that's not your job to educate them/warn them on (and yet you did anyway, by mentioning necessary PPE to purchase such as gloves, respirators, and ventilation for fumes!) There are multiple people in my family that want to use this theoretical 3d printer (haven't bought it yet,) so we have been debating each other about resin vs. PLA. This was super helpful! Great work :)
Your explanation is both solid and comprehensive. I appreciated the 22 minutes filled with valuable information. I can relate to your experience; I vividly remember struggling to assemble my Ender 3 V2 with practically no instructions included. I faced numerous challenges before successfully completing my first 3D print. I had been considering purchasing a resin printer, but after researching and understanding the hazardous risks associated with the fumes and potential skin contact, I decided against it. I realize I'm not disciplined enough to manage those risks safely.
I'm interested in getting into 3D figure printing and your video is of immense help. You're very articulate and you explained the differences and pros and cons very well. It was good to see examples of figures out of the two different printers. The most useful example was that small wizard with the difference in how the printers printed his hand. That difference in quality can more easily be seen when comparing the result from the same file instead of comparing different figures, as in the smooth Batman vs the detailed costume of Deadpool. If you were to do another comparison video, my request would be to show more examples of same figures printed by both so we could weigh the pros and cons of each system vs the resulting end products that come out.
Thank you so much for explaining the differences in the two. I've been looking but I'm undecided on which way I want to go and which one I want to choose. This helps tremendously in my decision. 😊
A great overview of low cost additive CNC machines, I got neither, I got a 3018 CNC mill. The cost of consumables, scraps bits of wood and plastic can be fed into it. Sawdust is the big issue, it's messy. But I have my eye on the pellet fed 3D printers. Pellets are cheaper than filament, especially in bulk. 3018 is agreat beginners machine, the bigger routers can make furniture which is hard to do on most 3D printers. Oh and it came with a 2.5Watt laser, those 10 and 20watt diode lasers are game changers. Smoke is the issue with them. CNC routers/lasers are faster, something to think about if you want to make money selling stuff you make. Final finish is also something to think about. 3D resin prints after cleaning are finished unless you want to paint them. Sanding/staining or Acetone fuming for wood or filament prints might be necessary. What is very important is just making things.
Well made sir. I wish I found this vid 5 months ago. I started with the Halot One and loved it. But.... I also love my Ender 3 V2 Neo. The resin printer is better for minatures, but the I find the FDM printer more versatile, especially for larger models. So I have the best of both worlds. Win - win.
Soo glad to see someone mention Anycubic I have the Photon D2 and my fdm is the Kobra Max. I've been telling my ol lady that I'm going to be the first black dude in this field. Oh well idc I'm kinda happy to see you up here lol. There are LITERALLY no videos for Anycubic machines. They are amazing and packed with features. I've been printing like crazy for 2 years. Never had a issue. I sure could use some pointers tho cause I'm about to start making videos and I want to sell stuff. Anything really lol
Good video, massively let down by the use of different models for each printer. It's impossible to compare print results with two different models. Next time, could you please use the same model for the printers being tested. That way, viewers can pause the video and compare the results. Also, please use static close up shots for this. Many RUclipsrs use moving dynamic shots which although they think it makes the video look good, it doesn't and is annoying. Static close up shots, especially with the two models side by side in the picture, allows viewers to compare print quality and decide for themselves which best suits their needs. Other than that quibble, good video :)
Great video. I actually wish I had seen this before I purchased. I bought an original ender 3 on Amazon and I definitely know what you're talking about with so many issues. The instructions,etc.... 2 things I wanted to mention- if you see the filament not laying properly on the base layer, there is a fine tune setting that you can adjust the extruder height in baby steps which I discovered, prevents from having to cancel and start the print over. Also, upon assembly, something they don't tell you is to make sure the feeder tube and wire harness are underneath the crossbar. It seems obvious after you have been printing, but for an absolute newbie, I had no idea and it's not mentioned in the instructions or the videos. I found out the hard way by needing to shut down the power after the tube and harness were being pulled over the bar upon first start up.
Great video, your clear and calm speaking voice is really a diamond in the rough of YT videos, Resin printers are great, prints do fail though, Your main problem with FDM it seems is that you have an Ender 3Pro that nobody looking for ease of use and trouble free printing should be looking it, there's plenty of great FDM printers now that you unbox, click the simple auto bed levelling process and away you go, With good auto bed levelling getting prints to stick is mostly a matter of not getting your finger prints/oil on it and just wipe it now and then with alcohol, Standard PLA is the absolute worst choice for Figures also due to it's low melt point, details get messy, blurry, soft looking. Looking at the smaller models close up I see your layer height is also too big for small figures. a 0.2 nozzle is no help there, a smaller nozzle does however help top surface topology, layer height you need to lower it further for fine prints, The best material I've found for fine prints is ABS+ that stuff prints so cleanly and doesn't get blobby on finer parts. you may need a cardboard enclosure if your rooms not warm or still air. Silk PLA is easier and is much better than Standard PLA for fine work it's like a totally different material.
From someone who uses both the pla is better for medium-sized or for small low detail. Resin is best for small high detail. And when it come to big items like 2x the size of that Deadpool flip a coin in my experience. However I think resin is better for models and mintures and pla is better for printing a functional item.
Been considering a printer for a couple of years and just can't bring myself to bite the bullet. Resin quality prints are probably the best, but there is a lot of hassle when it comes to washing, curing, supports, etc. Not to mention the gloves, the fumes, etc. Then you have filament and what turns me off is the detailing you might not get and then having to deal with filament lines vs running time and hassle of problems you mention. Great video, though, thanks for explaining.
Supports make a huge difference too. Resin can handle supporting small figures that I couldn't fathom trying on a filament printer. What nozzle size are you using?
I have bought pla and resin prints online. I can't stand the layer lines on filament. The resin prints more came out much better. I found that it also matters who you buy from as some sellers have much better results than others, so I'm assuming the materials are better and the print time is longer. It got me wondering why I haven't just bought my own. Great video, you deserve more subs.
i am new to this, but it seems PLA can remove the lines if they use a better printer or printer setting. Perhaps the people you buy from are doing the prints too fast and trying to save time.
Setting up my 3D printer took 15 minutes compared to around 30 on my resin, not to mention working around the toxicity of resin, avoiding skin contact, avoiding fumes, disposing properly, curing, cleaning, etc. It's such a tedious process
Great discussion in this video. I started with a filament printer having never used a printer before. I got an ender 5. I had a ton of issues and fought it for a couple weeks trying to get a decent print. I like tinkering but it was painful. I got a Saturn s resin printer and the experience was totally different. I took it out of the box and had it running in 20min. I did do a calibration cone on it and set the home. After that, I printed around 120 minis with maybe 4 or 5 failed minis in total. It is so much easier to get great prints from. As a beginner, just diving in and having success is so rewarding vs fighting the knowledge gap to make headway. I hate the resin chemicals / process though. I will keep working to figure out the filament printer to see if I can get anywhere near the quality you are showing here. My hope is that even if I can't, printers like the Bamboo x1 and creality k1 will come down in price and approach the ease of the resin printing setup. I'd love to be able to set my kids loose so they could find a thing on thingaverse, click print, and it would just work. At the moment, both are a long way off of working that way.
well made video, I'm surprised by the low subscriber count. Keep it up, I think you are going to blow up if you keep up this kind of quality. Only thing I can think of at all that you may have left off is slicer/slicing differences.
Thanks for the compliment! I started this channel a couple months ago. Hopefully it'll continue to grow. Also, good call on the slicer differences. That's very important and I may do a video just about that.
Gotta say you are a 💯 on the pain in the ass to set up, I bought a Ender 3 S1 pro and I still can’t get the bed to Preheat cause every time I touch the button to preheat it restarts the machine such a PAIN. And such a great video bro thank you
I love resin prints for complex and high detail objects, but as my competency has expanded I see myself printing more busts and statues in PLA for the extra durability it affords with small and highly detailed parts made in resin. Recently I primted and paimted myself a 9.5 in Judge Dredd bust and it was pure PLA and it looks fantastic.
few thing to specify for printing with resin in MY opinion: u can use water washable resin and remove the cost of any kind of substance u use to clean (u still need to let the water cure under sun in a container for some time and then release it correctly); new resin printers can allow u to never empty the vat even when a print fail, u can simply turn on the screen for 15 seconds and create an easy to remove layer that collect all the tiny pieces stuck on the vat; for printing a single model of 5 cm u are gonna need, lets say 50 min, in a resin 3d printer BUT u can also print 10 of that model in the same amount of time all at once while on a pla print if ur gonna try that the amount of time would it be way more longer. In the end i think the real difference is for how big u want to print things and what use u need them for. U need stuff that need to be malleable and more resistent and big then print with PLA. U need to print 1 to 20 cm things whith a lots of tiny little detail like action figure, miniature et similar then resin is the best choice
Great review. I want to say this as for some reason these are popping up in my video feeds today. I have a Saturn 2 and my very good friend has a very nice FDM printer. North of $1,500.00 US. His auto levels and he has multiple color feeds etc. So what did we notice that is not really shown here? There is a HUGE difference in quality. Yes even with a super small nozzle on his FDM printer. Yes even with all the super tweaks over time. For us, printing 12mm, 27mm and 32mm prints our group could in less than 1 second tell the difference. Does that mean the FDM is bad in any way? No not at all, but the Resin was perfect. I mean perfect and looked like it came from a highly detailed mold. If we had not seen, and held the resin print we would all be super happy with the FDM prints. I just want to make that clear to future FDM printer purchasers out there. There is a real world difference and you will notice a difference. If you want perfection or lets say you want to print out WH40k models and it 100% matches and you can't tell the difference, then you are Resin. For me I want that quality, but I also see where printing large terrain is way better on his FDM printer. I have like a 8x10X12 size limit (estimating), and he has like double that for the x and y axis. Heck he probably has more than that. So if you want to print out some cool dungeon tiles, then Resin is not at all good for doing that. Trust me I tried. It can be done but the cost and time will kill you. I want to be clear, as this video doesn't really show it and if I just watched it, I would assume that the FDM printers are 99.9% there in quality. They are not. Not at all. Are they 90%? Sure. Can you sand and work with a print afterward? Sure, but there is a noticeable difference. Next up for Resin is, that it is a mess to deal with. You can purchase water washable resin, so you do have that going for you now. You can purchase ventilation and a wash and cure station and I have. After all this it is very easy but the setup is a pain. So if you are a person that doesn't want to mess with that and 90% or even 95% quality is "good enough" this is an easy choice. I am a bit surprised seeing these videos come up and make it look like they are 99% there and I just want to let others know it isn't that close. You will see the flaws, and again my table could tell in less than 1 second. Does it matter to you? That is the real question.
I got the ender 3s1 and after about half a year of studying with reading videos and whatnot. It took about 6 months all together to fine tune the printer to print good. A good 3 months to level it out real good before the “auto leveling” does its job.
After transitioning from FDM wholly to resin 4 or 5 years ago, I've never looked back with any sort of regret on going resin. I had a beast of a delta printer that worked pretty well, up until it killed itself on a two day print during the pandemic's height when I couldn't get parts anymore. Honestly the mess isn't all that bad when you get your process down. I stick with a few sets of resins that work for me best, and the 'washables' (imo, they still need at least a thorough mist of IPA or denatured alky to be tack free) almost don't need wash and cure systems. The UV bucket I made way back when still works great (lined with reflective tape). There is something to be said for the reliability of FDM printers until you get your resin print fine tuned, but the maintenance is A LOT lower on resin overall, especially long term, but the time for me and all of the things I can do with resin as strength modifiers more than makes up the shortcomings. WIth resin, height=time, so the lower you can get all the parts will Dramatically cut down on print time, and it also allows you to do an entire figure (or lots of little stuff; I'm a large format guy however) in a few hours with stupid crazy detail. There's an awful lot of things that I can only make work with a resin printer that FDM can't even print. If you want to try doing a showdown, I have a model shop that specializes in resin figures that I'd rather like to see if they can be done to the same level on an FDM. I can set you up with something if that sounds agreeable.
Outstanding video! At the heart of it all, we are talking about using a robot to do what we cannot do - sculpt. I would love to have the skill to take a piece of clay and mold it into the figure I can see in my head. (Insert absurd maniacal laughing here.) Because I and lots of others do not have such abilities, we turn to a robot. Neither of these methods is optimal. Both processes can be (and should be) improved upon. I teach quality management principles for two schools and this entire thing just screams Quality Improvements are needed. I would dearly love to produce my own figures but lack the space for a toxic lab (resin) or the impreciseness of the filament outputs keeps me in check. AND even if either of those could be solved, I'd still need to learn how to PAINT all the items I produce and that's another grand adventure of learning, costs, and joy/frustration. This is why all those wonderful statues and figures we buy premade cost so much! Again, thank you sir. This was an excellent presentation and I wish you every success!
Also, after you get your filament printer set up, you do have to figure out all of the settings, i.e. nozzle temperature, bed temperature, and even the printing speed. Not to mention making sure that the ambient temperature is the correct temperature. I do appreciate the video though, I was really curious about what the difference between resin printing and filament printing was, so thank you for the video.
good video but I see a massive difference on those miniatures in terms of detail. Hence why resin is preferred for detailed miniature printing. As for Batman vs Deadpool, not a good comparison as you should have printed the Deadpool model on both printers as it seems to have more detail in the model verses the Batman.
For FDM minis, the model REALLY matters. If you can find attractive models carefully designed to print SUPPORTLESS (like the Deadpool bust featured here), then FDM printers can churn out some pretty great results, especially with the right settings and a 0.2mm nozzle. But any time you're dealing with heavy supports, you will notice a dramatic drop-off in quality on overhung areas. And even at their best performance, they will leave layer lines visible to the naked eye, which some people don't mind and others absolutely will hate. Those drawbacks aside, I recommend an FDM printer for anyone starting out in the hobby. I think the tinkering it encourages you to do, the satisfaction of watching a print come to life, the ease of operation once you set it up, and the non-prohibitive cost of the machine and materials really help develop a lasting love and interest in the hobby.
One of the big things that needs to be said about PLA figure prints, is that you can't paint them the way you would traditional plastic minis or resin-cast statues, trying to shade or line them will really bring out the print lines. So if you're a modeler looking to make nicely painted things, and not just pieces for gameplay, the difference is stark.
I have a few years of experience printing with both FDM and resin. I still recommend a cheap FDM printer as someone's first 3D printer. Yes, it's more fiddly and the resolution is lower, but there are generally more knowledge-base resources available, finishing/using an FDM print is WAY easier, there's less setup, less prep, less gooey mess, and less extra stuff you need to get. Having said that, filament printers are *FRUSTRATING.* Every issue with the printer has the same symptoms: the exturder jams, and bed adhesion fails. With resin, every issue has a distinct symptom and it's easier to diagnose. I recently got rid of my last FDM printer, my current printer is resin, and I'm not going back. Additionally, if an FDM print fails, you usually end up with a massive, tangled mess. When a resin print fails, you get a funny shaped pancake in the bottom of the vat. Even if you end up having to run the clean function on the printer, one of these failure states typically wastes a lot less material than the other. FDM and resin prints both have their advantages and disadvantages. Overall though, I just prefer the disadvantages of resin prints to the disadvantages of FDM.
I was planning to go with resin but after hearing about all the additional work and all the bottles of different chemicals I decided to go with FDM as my first printer.
My fdm road has not been fun got a 400+ Geeetech A30T and the following happened 1. Nozzle jamm galore. 2. Had to get a filament drier due to humidity ruining multiple prints. 3. Got a glass bed that somehow had less "grit" to it than the plate it came with. 4. Got a PEI sheet, prints stick to it whenever they want to, I removed residue and still some prints won't stick. 5. Got an automatic bed level sensor and set it up according to instructions directly from Geeetech, on first leveling the nozzle crashed right into the bed despite the sensor. 6. It started leaking filament from the heat block. After months of almost daily tinkering tinkering and getting maybe 3 good prints, I gave up. I found a photon mono x 6k on clearance sale from Walmart for 180, still haven't set it up but I hope it goes better than FDM, it feels like I was fighting the FDM printer to do what it was constructed to do. I'm willing to do more post processing if it means less time wasted fighting a printer.
I've been thinking about getting into 3d printing thatnks for the great video and pointing out what I was wondering about with resin smelling since I live in an apartment and was wondering about that
If you know you want a FDM printer and you are willing to spend the money the Bambu P1P is almost no fiddling, auto bed leveling ect. Took me minimal setup and the software is easy to use. I have been printing non stop with minimal issues.
An advantage with Filament is that you can use many different colors and can change colors at different layers. Some filament material, ie abs, is not good to breath.
What a great video so well done. Is filament PLA printer also good for doing spaceships.. more hard surface examples? Do you always need to pre-build PLA printer your self? or can you buy pre-builds?
Started with the ender 3 got tired of the quality. So bought a much larger Sunlu S8 pro and it was pretty much the same so I bought the anycubic mono 4k but was super unsatisified with the build volume so I pre ordered the Saturn 2 and it changed everything. Now I am waiting for my delivery of the new Saturn 3 Ultra and only use water washable resin.
Excellent video man. As of my current experience I will definitely say fdm has been a major pain of troubleshooting for me but the size limitation and ventilation requirements of resin made it an unattractive option for me. After this video I'm almost wishing I went with resin if not for some of the drawbacks. The noise level would be excellent for smaller living spaces (assuming it's well ventilated)
The ease of use and quality of resin outweighs the downsides for me. But I love the build versatility FDM offers. I guess it mostly depends on what you're using the printer for.
I have my Saturn 2 8k resin printer in a grow tent with a bathroom extractor fan and flexi hose out of the window. I use denatured alcohol to clean is as it don't smell as much as IPA. Also make sure you have a mask with activated carbon filter.
Good video but time to update it. I have 10 printers 8 resin, 2 really good pla printers. My newest printer the anycubic M5 pro is super fast! that deadpool figure I could print that in around an hour and change in 14 K resolution, the PLA printer at the best quality setting cura has to offer would take (guessing here) 4-5 hours and I would still have layer lines. If I was doing a 6 inch circular base 4 inches tall, I'm looking at 3 -4 days. With resin it would be 3-4 hours
Well said. I have an original Ender 3. Yery fiddly machine, but with that tweaking I have made some great miniatures. I just don't have the space for a resin machine. This is a great video for beginners.
I can produce 100+ 40k miniatures in about 12 -14 hrs with a resin printer. 👍👍 Just my 2cents of info. Great video Thank you for sharing I currently use a Halot mage 8k 👍 Good machine , good price
It takes 6 hours to get a large figure printed in two halves with a resin printer but FDM can take two hours for the same large model. But prints from a resin printer will not have layer grooves. My question is which printer has the least amount of waste factor?
Great video, thanks. I am looking to start 3D printing, mainly for gaming (and painting) miniatures around 25 - 32mm. I do have a dedicated space in the garage to print in so it looks like resin might be the better option. Quick (and maybe silly) question, how does temperature affect printing? We can have some extremes of temperature here. In summer it can get up to 40 degrees while in Winter (i.e. now for me) it got down to -6 last night. My planned area is enclosed but not climate controlled - would this affect printing quality? Thanks for your help.
Yes, temperature can affect resin printing. The manufacturers of the resin usually list the temperature range you can use. For example, standard Anycubic resin has a recommended temperature range of between 18 to 35 degrees Celsius. I've been able to print successfully in my garage in temperatures as low as 13 degrees Celsius. -6 would likely cause issues with the prints.
I'm halfway through the video... can we just take a moment to appreciate how well this guy speaks? Such a clear voice, clear information, no jump cuts, no BS... just... damn. Well done my guy.
I'm listening at 2x speed and he's perfectly intelligible
As an older person.. it hadn’t occurred to me until you stated that. Generation Z is nearly unintelligible.
I was 10 mins into the video and read your comment was thinking the same thing
Honestly, great person to be around i'm sure. Nice voice and great video delivery for sure!
I was about to make the same comment and saw your’s. So happy I found this guy and his channel. A real gem.
what a pleasant surprise when you stumble on a youtube creator who talks like a human being and not a game show host! Very helpful for someone who is considering buying their first 3d printer, thanks!
Thanks for the kind words!
Yeah but at 125% speed xD
@@FigureFeedback I agree, liked and subscribed!
Your explanation about those 2 types of devices just blow my head. We'll presented and exposed. Clearvinformation. Excellent pacing and clear voice. THANKS A LOT SIR, YOU ARE A GOD BETWEEN HUMANS.
You are a natural teacher. Excellent video. I have been printing with both FDM and Resin for several years now and often find myself explaining the difference. I will now be recommending this video to folks who are just getting started. The only thing I would have added would be a discussion of build volume and that for many people into gaming they have one of each: FDM for terrain and resin for figures. Cheers.
Thank you! You make some good points here. I'll keep that in mind for a future video.
Printing architecture models witch one should I use ?
@@teddychathuant882 Judging by Johnandlissa's post, a filament printer would be best, unless you have lots of small intricate flourishes in the buildings facade. Which given the resultant real-world cost in the finished article, is not something the buildings owners are going to want.
@@FigureFeedback. - Thanks for all the info! Dunno if it's possible to do at this point, but you seemed to want to leave a video link card around 14:36
@@I.m-Methe link is at the very bottom of the description. Below the transcript.
Amazing to see the quality you can get with entry level printers! Enjoyed this video very much.
As a noobie to the 3D scene, I found this vid very informative and helpful. Very balanced and unbiased with useful details. Thanks so much.
Glad to help! Thanks!
I've been watching so many videos on resin vs fdm printers and this is the best video I've seen. Just clearly and coherently explained comparison without any angle from the presenter. Thank you very much for your excellent video, your channel deserves a lot more subscribers
This has to be one of the best if not THE best comparisons videos on 3D printing on RUclips. Very informative, thank you so much! 😊
Best introduction breakdown i've seen. Perfect for the newcomer. Thank you!
I also have both types of printers and find that PLA is best for large objects or simple objects while Resin is best for smaller more complex objects. I prefer using PLA when i can as it has less upkeep and cleaning needed between prints. nice vid
I didn't know resin was so hazardous, thank you for this very informative video.
Use a diffrents components that are "irritable" for our eyes, skin... 'cause they leave toxic vapour.
Very well explained, I agree with what you say from my experience Resin for small figures is better and easier for paint but I continue with filaments because it is more practical and cleaner, and more than with Printers like Bambu Lab that you don't have to do almost anything to adjust or assemble to print.
It's as fast or faster than any resin and with a very good print quality.
Exactly , things like the Bambu lab or the Vorons are so damn fast
@@ulforcemegamon3094yes and now Qidi x plus 3 and Creality k1 are fast and for sale at competitive prices.
I've had a resin printer for about a year, but only used it for about a month, specifically because of the mess (so many chemicals, needed different containers, and if you're in an apartment like I am, there's no way to have enough room to be practical about any part of the process), the toxic fumes (in an apartment there's next to no effective way to handle them), and how much effort it takes (not to mention that I was getting exclusively failed prints, even after getting perfect scores on the things used for calibrating your settings, like the cones of calibration. Only got 3 successful prints out of the thing).
Considering getting a filament printer just to see if it'll do the jobs I need (heck, even being 50% less of a pain would be a godsend).
Interesting video. I got the Ender 3 V2 printer first, and had a hard time in getting it to print properly. Now it is printing ok. I was thinking of buying the resin printer, but after seeing all the mess and toxic smell, I decided not to go for it. After going through lot of RUclips videos, I bought the Bambu Lab P1P printer. I am very happy with it, easy setup, auto levelling, corexy, and 3 times faster than the Ender 3. All the prints on Bambu Lab came out excellent, as good as the resin printer output. It is worth spending some extra money and buy the Bambu Lab P1P. I recovered the cost within a month after selling some nice printed stuff. It is a game changer.
Those Bambu Lab printers really are incredible. It looks like other companies are doing their best to match what they've done.
@@FigureFeedback Bambu Lab X1C with .2 Nozzle at 0.08-0.10 layer height rivals most resin printers. A few minor other setting modifications are sometimes necessary depending on the print.
@@highrise9559 would you say it could match a resin printer for minitures?
@@AAw3s0m3 After some time now owning the Photon 6Ks and the M5s I would say, "No". Using a layer height of .05mm down to .02mm on the resin printers completely blows the doors off of my X1C's, even at its most detailed settings. For prints that are less detailed or complex, the X1C's do a great job, and are so much simpler and less messy to use.
Although everything said in this video is correct, the difficulties mentioned for FDM are mostly cause by choosing an ancient printer like the Ender 3 Pro. There are other printers (ex. Elegoo Neptune) in the $150-$200 range which only need 4 bolts to be fastened for assembly and have a better description on what to do. I have both SLA and FDM printers and the summary is simple:
- SLA has way better resolution than FDM, i.e. details can be much more fine. You could fit a 0.2mm nozzle on the FDM printer, but that's still 200micron vs 50micron or lower for SLA. And FDM will have stringing and more support artefacts
- SLA is a pain to process. I hardly use SLA because it's just such a mess to wash the print, then cure it (for which you need UV lamps which you did not mention), then cure and clean everything that touched the resin as you should not put uncured resin in the waste, after some prints you're stuck with IPA containing lots of uncured resin and need to filter that or replace it, ... And when you've printed a lot, you'll have to replace the FEP-sheet and some time later the LCD or even the UV LED array (although you might better get a new printer then). In short, SLA is just so much hassle, that I hardly use it. FDM on the other hand is just start the print, wait for it to finish, take it off the plate. And when you feel like it, wipe the PEI build sheet (not standard on the Ender 3 Pro) with some IPA. And sure, after lots and lots of printing there might be some bearing you'd have to replace or the nozzle, but all those things are nowhere near as annoying as having to protect you and everything else from poisonous resin.
Thanks for sharing your experience, I am torn between FDM and SLA, unable to decide which I should buy. Maybe I have to get both in the end.
Excellent comment. I 100% agree. What it boils down to is, what you want to print and the quality you want to print it. There is a lot more hassle, safety steps and process to using SLA, but if your looking for certain quality and don't mind the extra steps, that's the way to go. Higher quality FDM printers (not the Ender 3 Pro) with higher quality materials can get you similar results without all the hassle. He based his FDM experiences off the Creality machine, which could discourage others from FDM printing. I would suggest spending a little extra for a quality FDM printer if you want to avoid the toxicity of resin.
I've watched several videos as I'm itching to pull the trigger on 3d printing. Yours is by far the best. Thank you for putting this together. I don't know if it's something you enjoy, but your damn good at it.
Thank you so much for that compliment! It means a lot!
I’m glad you went into the hassle of resin printing. It’s definitely not talked about enough. Great video
Really well presented, I 3d print professionally, but I still watched this all the way just for the quality and clarity of presentation. Hope this channel gets big.
Dude, how do you not have more subscribers! Great content!
Thanks! The channel has been around for a couple months. It's great to see people take notice.
Great video, I was wanting the resin printer for miniatures but being in an apartment the fumes gave me pause. Really glad to see you can still get good quality prints for miniatures with filament. The ones you printed look great!
Hey mate , I've just seen your comment and wonder if working with filament has paid off for you since then? I want to start a little business and really need to know if filament based figures can be in good quality for sale?
I would be really appreciate it if you can help me with your response
Wish you all the best
Just got a hand-me-down Creality resin printer. Doing my 1st print tonight. This has been an interesting comparison. I'll be sure to check out your other video about cleaning & curing.
On the filament printers, spending just a little bit more will get you one (eg the Anycubic Kobra or Elegoo Neptune) with silent stepper drivers and quieter fans. Oh, and they usually come mostly assembled, have auto bed leveling, etc.
On the material costs of resin vs filament, you will probably use more resin than you would filament for the same model as for figures you will generally be printing them 100% solid with resin, but much less than that with filament.
The layer lines on filament prints can be easily dealt with - I've found that a couple of brushed on coats of Mod Podge (dry within 20 minutes in winter) filled in all but the worst ones for some figures I printed a short while ago.
Another consideration is fragility of the models - resin is less flexible and more easily damaged/broken than filament prints.
You are not printing larger figures with resin. Or even smaller figures which are a single body. You can put holes for the resin to drain, and most programs come with auto-hollowers.
I am really glad I got a resin printer after using FDM for years. I use them both all the time for different applications. You are absolutely correct about the resin printer though, it just prints perfect all the time and outstanding quality. But I like my Sovol FDM and playing with the Sonic Pad too….
I could listen to you talk all day about 3d printing all day lol. Great infotmation.
Good information. I switched from resin to Filament printers and never looked back.
Some of these commenters are so whiny and entitled. This was a VERY good video for us beginners!
Anyone going into resin should be able to evaluate health risks and protection themselves, that's not your job to educate them/warn them on (and yet you did anyway, by mentioning necessary PPE to purchase such as gloves, respirators, and ventilation for fumes!)
There are multiple people in my family that want to use this theoretical 3d printer (haven't bought it yet,) so we have been debating each other about resin vs. PLA. This was super helpful!
Great work :)
Your explanation is both solid and comprehensive. I appreciated the 22 minutes filled with valuable information. I can relate to your experience; I vividly remember struggling to assemble my Ender 3 V2 with practically no instructions included. I faced numerous challenges before successfully completing my first 3D print.
I had been considering purchasing a resin printer, but after researching and understanding the hazardous risks associated with the fumes and potential skin contact, I decided against it. I realize I'm not disciplined enough to manage those risks safely.
Brilliant Sir, best I have watched for overview of these two types of printer. Thank you and best of luck in all you do going forward.
I'm interested in getting into 3D figure printing and your video is of immense help. You're very articulate and you explained the differences and pros and cons very well. It was good to see examples of figures out of the two different printers. The most useful example was that small wizard with the difference in how the printers printed his hand. That difference in quality can more easily be seen when comparing the result from the same file instead of comparing different figures, as in the smooth Batman vs the detailed costume of Deadpool. If you were to do another comparison video, my request would be to show more examples of same figures printed by both so we could weigh the pros and cons of each system vs the resulting end products that come out.
Thank you so much for explaining the differences in the two. I've been looking but I'm undecided on which way I want to go and which one I want to choose. This helps tremendously in my decision. 😊
A great overview of low cost additive CNC machines, I got neither, I got a 3018 CNC mill. The cost of consumables, scraps bits of wood and plastic can be fed into it. Sawdust is the big issue, it's messy. But I have my eye on the pellet fed 3D printers. Pellets are cheaper than filament, especially in bulk. 3018 is agreat beginners machine, the bigger routers can make furniture which is hard to do on most 3D printers. Oh and it came with a 2.5Watt laser, those 10 and 20watt diode lasers are game changers. Smoke is the issue with them. CNC routers/lasers are faster, something to think about if you want to make money selling stuff you make. Final finish is also something to think about. 3D resin prints after cleaning are finished unless you want to paint them. Sanding/staining or Acetone fuming for wood or filament prints might be necessary. What is very important is just making things.
Great video, I am glad I ran into this one. I am in the process of buying myself a printer and the way you explained it was great.
Thank you man! In depth, good useful information for me. Considering setting up shop to sell small decor items, miniatures & such.
Thank you so much for this video. I have been researching my first printer for a while now and this made my choice much more easy.
Great video, exactly what I was looking for when trying to decide
you have an excellent narrative voice! Quality info too...TY!
Thank you very much!
Well made sir. I wish I found this vid 5 months ago. I started with the Halot One and loved it. But.... I also love my Ender 3 V2 Neo. The resin printer is better for minatures, but the I find the FDM printer more versatile, especially for larger models. So I have the best of both worlds. Win - win.
Soo glad to see someone mention Anycubic I have the Photon D2 and my fdm is the Kobra Max. I've been telling my ol lady that I'm going to be the first black dude in this field. Oh well idc I'm kinda happy to see you up here lol. There are LITERALLY no videos for Anycubic machines. They are amazing and packed with features. I've been printing like crazy for 2 years. Never had a issue. I sure could use some pointers tho cause I'm about to start making videos and I want to sell stuff. Anything really lol
Good video, massively let down by the use of different models for each printer. It's impossible to compare print results with two different models. Next time, could you please use the same model for the printers being tested. That way, viewers can pause the video and compare the results. Also, please use static close up shots for this. Many RUclipsrs use moving dynamic shots which although they think it makes the video look good, it doesn't and is annoying. Static close up shots, especially with the two models side by side in the picture, allows viewers to compare print quality and decide for themselves which best suits their needs. Other than that quibble, good video :)
Lol
"Massively" let down? Lol. Spoken like a true...I don't need to say it. Who's man's is this? Calm down my boy.
This is a nice find. Good to see others teaching 3D printing.
Great video. I actually wish I had seen this before I purchased. I bought an original ender 3 on Amazon and I definitely know what you're talking about with so many issues. The instructions,etc....
2 things I wanted to mention- if you see the filament not laying properly on the base layer, there is a fine tune setting that you can adjust the extruder height in baby steps which I discovered, prevents from having to cancel and start the print over.
Also, upon assembly, something they don't tell you is to make sure the feeder tube and wire harness are underneath the crossbar.
It seems obvious after you have been printing, but for an absolute newbie, I had no idea and it's not mentioned in the instructions or the videos.
I found out the hard way by needing to shut down the power after the tube and harness were being pulled over the bar upon first start up.
Excellent overview, extremely helpful!
WOW, I can't believe you got those FDM parts to look so good!
Awesome video and breakdown on the after-sale needs on these types of printers. Thank you
Great video, your clear and calm speaking voice is really a diamond in the rough of YT videos, Resin printers are great, prints do fail though, Your main problem with FDM it seems is that you have an Ender 3Pro that nobody looking for ease of use and trouble free printing should be looking it, there's plenty of great FDM printers now that you unbox, click the simple auto bed levelling process and away you go, With good auto bed levelling getting prints to stick is mostly a matter of not getting your finger prints/oil on it and just wipe it now and then with alcohol, Standard PLA is the absolute worst choice for Figures also due to it's low melt point, details get messy, blurry, soft looking. Looking at the smaller models close up I see your layer height is also too big for small figures. a 0.2 nozzle is no help there, a smaller nozzle does however help top surface topology, layer height you need to lower it further for fine prints, The best material I've found for fine prints is ABS+ that stuff prints so cleanly and doesn't get blobby on finer parts. you may need a cardboard enclosure if your rooms not warm or still air. Silk PLA is easier and is much better than Standard PLA for fine work it's like a totally different material.
From someone who uses both the pla is better for medium-sized or for small low detail. Resin is best for small high detail. And when it come to big items like 2x the size of that Deadpool flip a coin in my experience. However I think resin is better for models and mintures and pla is better for printing a functional item.
Great video on the differences between resin and filament printing. Thank you!
Wow, really great job on breaking it down! very enjoyable watch, you deserve some great attention!
Thank you!
Really great content i think your show is gonna get big
Thanks!
Great video! I really look forward to more!
Been considering a printer for a couple of years and just can't bring myself to bite the bullet. Resin quality prints are probably the best, but there is a lot of hassle when it comes to washing, curing, supports, etc. Not to mention the gloves, the fumes, etc. Then you have filament and what turns me off is the detailing you might not get and then having to deal with filament lines vs running time and hassle of problems you mention. Great video, though, thanks for explaining.
I’m considering getting a 3D printer and your video really helped me. Thank you 🙏 👍🏻
This video review was outstanding!
Supports make a huge difference too. Resin can handle supporting small figures that I couldn't fathom trying on a filament printer. What nozzle size are you using?
I'm using a standard 0.4mm nozzle that came with the Ender 3 Pro.
I have bought pla and resin prints online. I can't stand the layer lines on filament. The resin prints more came out much better. I found that it also matters who you buy from as some sellers have much better results than others, so I'm assuming the materials are better and the print time is longer. It got me wondering why I haven't just bought my own. Great video, you deserve more subs.
i am new to this, but it seems PLA can remove the lines if they use a better printer or printer setting. Perhaps the people you buy from are doing the prints too fast and trying to save time.
You left out FEP replacement and LCD replacement for resin.
Setting up my 3D printer took 15 minutes compared to around 30 on my resin, not to mention working around the toxicity of resin, avoiding skin contact, avoiding fumes, disposing properly, curing, cleaning, etc. It's such a tedious process
Great discussion in this video. I started with a filament printer having never used a printer before. I got an ender 5. I had a ton of issues and fought it for a couple weeks trying to get a decent print. I like tinkering but it was painful.
I got a Saturn s resin printer and the experience was totally different. I took it out of the box and had it running in 20min. I did do a calibration cone on it and set the home. After that, I printed around 120 minis with maybe 4 or 5 failed minis in total. It is so much easier to get great prints from.
As a beginner, just diving in and having success is so rewarding vs fighting the knowledge gap to make headway. I hate the resin chemicals / process though. I will keep working to figure out the filament printer to see if I can get anywhere near the quality you are showing here. My hope is that even if I can't, printers like the Bamboo x1 and creality k1 will come down in price and approach the ease of the resin printing setup. I'd love to be able to set my kids loose so they could find a thing on thingaverse, click print, and it would just work. At the moment, both are a long way off of working that way.
I bought a qidi plus it has been fairly easy to calibrate.
well made video, I'm surprised by the low subscriber count. Keep it up, I think you are going to blow up if you keep up this kind of quality. Only thing I can think of at all that you may have left off is slicer/slicing differences.
Thanks for the compliment! I started this channel a couple months ago. Hopefully it'll continue to grow. Also, good call on the slicer differences. That's very important and I may do a video just about that.
Gotta say you are a 💯 on the pain in the ass to set up, I bought a Ender 3 S1 pro and I still can’t get the bed to Preheat cause every time I touch the button to preheat it restarts the machine such a PAIN.
And such a great video bro thank you
You have that ender really fine-tuned. the Deadpool is fantastic
Great video! Now I'm leaning towards filament.
I love resin prints for complex and high detail objects, but as my competency has expanded I see myself printing more busts and statues in PLA for the extra durability it affords with small and highly detailed parts made in resin. Recently I primted and paimted myself a 9.5 in Judge Dredd bust and it was pure PLA and it looks fantastic.
You are the best!! Thank you so much for this important info🧡💙💜
few thing to specify for printing with resin in MY opinion:
u can use water washable resin and remove the cost of any kind of substance u use to clean (u still need to let the water cure under sun in a container for some time and then release it correctly);
new resin printers can allow u to never empty the vat even when a print fail, u can simply turn on the screen for 15 seconds and create an easy to remove layer that collect all the tiny pieces stuck on the vat;
for printing a single model of 5 cm u are gonna need, lets say 50 min, in a resin 3d printer BUT u can also print 10 of that model in the same amount of time all at once while on a pla print if ur gonna try that the amount of time would it be way more longer.
In the end i think the real difference is for how big u want to print things and what use u need them for. U need stuff that need to be malleable and more resistent and big then print with PLA.
U need to print 1 to 20 cm things whith a lots of tiny little detail like action figure, miniature et similar then resin is the best choice
Thanks Jeremy, you're awesome!
Great review. I want to say this as for some reason these are popping up in my video feeds today. I have a Saturn 2 and my very good friend has a very nice FDM printer. North of $1,500.00 US. His auto levels and he has multiple color feeds etc. So what did we notice that is not really shown here? There is a HUGE difference in quality. Yes even with a super small nozzle on his FDM printer. Yes even with all the super tweaks over time. For us, printing 12mm, 27mm and 32mm prints our group could in less than 1 second tell the difference. Does that mean the FDM is bad in any way? No not at all, but the Resin was perfect. I mean perfect and looked like it came from a highly detailed mold. If we had not seen, and held the resin print we would all be super happy with the FDM prints. I just want to make that clear to future FDM printer purchasers out there. There is a real world difference and you will notice a difference. If you want perfection or lets say you want to print out WH40k models and it 100% matches and you can't tell the difference, then you are Resin. For me I want that quality, but I also see where printing large terrain is way better on his FDM printer. I have like a 8x10X12 size limit (estimating), and he has like double that for the x and y axis. Heck he probably has more than that. So if you want to print out some cool dungeon tiles, then Resin is not at all good for doing that. Trust me I tried. It can be done but the cost and time will kill you. I want to be clear, as this video doesn't really show it and if I just watched it, I would assume that the FDM printers are 99.9% there in quality. They are not. Not at all. Are they 90%? Sure. Can you sand and work with a print afterward? Sure, but there is a noticeable difference. Next up for Resin is, that it is a mess to deal with. You can purchase water washable resin, so you do have that going for you now. You can purchase ventilation and a wash and cure station and I have. After all this it is very easy but the setup is a pain. So if you are a person that doesn't want to mess with that and 90% or even 95% quality is "good enough" this is an easy choice. I am a bit surprised seeing these videos come up and make it look like they are 99% there and I just want to let others know it isn't that close. You will see the flaws, and again my table could tell in less than 1 second. Does it matter to you? That is the real question.
I got the ender 3s1 and after about half a year of studying with reading videos and whatnot. It took about 6 months all together to fine tune the printer to print good. A good 3 months to level it out real good before the “auto leveling” does its job.
Great video, thanks for your talent to explain things.
I been using water based resin for my last 50+ prints and it's a game changer. Less smell, easy to clean and cures very strong.
After transitioning from FDM wholly to resin 4 or 5 years ago, I've never looked back with any sort of regret on going resin. I had a beast of a delta printer that worked pretty well, up until it killed itself on a two day print during the pandemic's height when I couldn't get parts anymore. Honestly the mess isn't all that bad when you get your process down. I stick with a few sets of resins that work for me best, and the 'washables' (imo, they still need at least a thorough mist of IPA or denatured alky to be tack free) almost don't need wash and cure systems. The UV bucket I made way back when still works great (lined with reflective tape). There is something to be said for the reliability of FDM printers until you get your resin print fine tuned, but the maintenance is A LOT lower on resin overall, especially long term, but the time for me and all of the things I can do with resin as strength modifiers more than makes up the shortcomings. WIth resin, height=time, so the lower you can get all the parts will Dramatically cut down on print time, and it also allows you to do an entire figure (or lots of little stuff; I'm a large format guy however) in a few hours with stupid crazy detail. There's an awful lot of things that I can only make work with a resin printer that FDM can't even print.
If you want to try doing a showdown, I have a model shop that specializes in resin figures that I'd rather like to see if they can be done to the same level on an FDM. I can set you up with something if that sounds agreeable.
Outstanding video! At the heart of it all, we are talking about using a robot to do what we cannot do - sculpt. I would love to have the skill to take a piece of clay and mold it into the figure I can see in my head. (Insert absurd maniacal laughing here.)
Because I and lots of others do not have such abilities, we turn to a robot. Neither of these methods is optimal. Both processes can be (and should be) improved upon. I teach quality management principles for two schools and this entire thing just screams Quality Improvements are needed.
I would dearly love to produce my own figures but lack the space for a toxic lab (resin) or the impreciseness of the filament outputs keeps me in check. AND even if either of those could be solved, I'd still need to learn how to PAINT all the items I produce and that's another grand adventure of learning, costs, and joy/frustration. This is why all those wonderful statues and figures we buy premade cost so much!
Again, thank you sir. This was an excellent presentation and I wish you every success!
I really want to learn how to design them
Also, after you get your filament printer set up, you do have to figure out all of the settings, i.e. nozzle temperature, bed temperature, and even the printing speed. Not to mention making sure that the ambient temperature is the correct temperature.
I do appreciate the video though, I was really curious about what the difference between resin printing and filament printing was, so thank you for the video.
Great video - thanks for the tips and guidance.
good video but I see a massive difference on those miniatures in terms of detail. Hence why resin is preferred for detailed miniature printing. As for Batman vs Deadpool, not a good comparison as you should have printed the Deadpool model on both printers as it seems to have more detail in the model verses the Batman.
For FDM minis, the model REALLY matters. If you can find attractive models carefully designed to print SUPPORTLESS (like the Deadpool bust featured here), then FDM printers can churn out some pretty great results, especially with the right settings and a 0.2mm nozzle. But any time you're dealing with heavy supports, you will notice a dramatic drop-off in quality on overhung areas. And even at their best performance, they will leave layer lines visible to the naked eye, which some people don't mind and others absolutely will hate. Those drawbacks aside, I recommend an FDM printer for anyone starting out in the hobby. I think the tinkering it encourages you to do, the satisfaction of watching a print come to life, the ease of operation once you set it up, and the non-prohibitive cost of the machine and materials really help develop a lasting love and interest in the hobby.
One of the big things that needs to be said about PLA figure prints, is that you can't paint them the way you would traditional plastic minis or resin-cast statues, trying to shade or line them will really bring out the print lines. So if you're a modeler looking to make nicely painted things, and not just pieces for gameplay, the difference is stark.
I have a few years of experience printing with both FDM and resin. I still recommend a cheap FDM printer as someone's first 3D printer. Yes, it's more fiddly and the resolution is lower, but there are generally more knowledge-base resources available, finishing/using an FDM print is WAY easier, there's less setup, less prep, less gooey mess, and less extra stuff you need to get.
Having said that, filament printers are *FRUSTRATING.* Every issue with the printer has the same symptoms: the exturder jams, and bed adhesion fails. With resin, every issue has a distinct symptom and it's easier to diagnose. I recently got rid of my last FDM printer, my current printer is resin, and I'm not going back.
Additionally, if an FDM print fails, you usually end up with a massive, tangled mess. When a resin print fails, you get a funny shaped pancake in the bottom of the vat. Even if you end up having to run the clean function on the printer, one of these failure states typically wastes a lot less material than the other.
FDM and resin prints both have their advantages and disadvantages. Overall though, I just prefer the disadvantages of resin prints to the disadvantages of FDM.
I was planning to go with resin but after hearing about all the additional work and all the bottles of different chemicals I decided to go with FDM as my first printer.
My fdm road has not been fun got a 400+ Geeetech A30T and the following happened
1. Nozzle jamm galore.
2. Had to get a filament drier due to humidity ruining multiple prints.
3. Got a glass bed that somehow had less "grit" to it than the plate it came with.
4. Got a PEI sheet, prints stick to it whenever they want to, I removed residue and still some prints won't stick.
5. Got an automatic bed level sensor and set it up according to instructions directly from Geeetech, on first leveling the nozzle crashed right into the bed despite the sensor.
6. It started leaking filament from the heat block.
After months of almost daily tinkering tinkering and getting maybe 3 good prints, I gave up. I found a photon mono x 6k on clearance sale from Walmart for 180, still haven't set it up but I hope it goes better than FDM, it feels like I was fighting the FDM printer to do what it was constructed to do. I'm willing to do more post processing if it means less time wasted fighting a printer.
Can you do a video of your setup for resin. How much room do you need?
That's a good idea. I'll work on that.
great vid. i'm thinking of ditching my fdm for a resin machine. i've had the worst time removing supports ruining so many models.
Resin supports are much easier to remove especially if you soak them in warm water for a couple minutes. They peel off so easily.
@@FigureFeedback thank you so much.
You were at 999 so I had to make it 1k. Nice video. 👍🏻
Awesome! Thank you!
I've been thinking about getting into 3d printing thatnks for the great video and pointing out what I was wondering about with resin smelling since I live in an apartment and was wondering about that
subscribed just for the trunks in the back lol
I see you have good taste!
If you know you want a FDM printer and you are willing to spend the money the Bambu P1P is almost no fiddling, auto bed leveling ect. Took me minimal setup and the software is easy to use. I have been printing non stop with minimal issues.
Nice video. I have an FDM printer I'm ready to toss, but going to check out the resin. Thanks
An advantage with Filament is that you can use many different colors and can change colors at different layers. Some filament material, ie abs, is not good to breath.
Many thanks for this great video!
What a great video so well done. Is filament PLA printer also good for doing spaceships.. more hard surface examples? Do you always need to pre-build PLA printer your self? or can you buy pre-builds?
Thank you. So infomative this video helps me a lot as I want to start in 3d printing
You're very welcome!
which exact pla did you use for deadpool?
Started with the ender 3 got tired of the quality. So bought a much larger Sunlu S8 pro and it was pretty much the same so I bought the anycubic mono 4k but was super unsatisified with the build volume so I pre ordered the Saturn 2 and it changed everything. Now I am waiting for my delivery of the new Saturn 3 Ultra and only use water washable resin.
Excellent video man. As of my current experience I will definitely say fdm has been a major pain of troubleshooting for me but the size limitation and ventilation requirements of resin made it an unattractive option for me. After this video I'm almost wishing I went with resin if not for some of the drawbacks. The noise level would be excellent for smaller living spaces (assuming it's well ventilated)
The ease of use and quality of resin outweighs the downsides for me. But I love the build versatility FDM offers. I guess it mostly depends on what you're using the printer for.
I have my Saturn 2 8k resin printer in a grow tent with a bathroom extractor fan and flexi hose out of the window. I use denatured alcohol to clean is as it don't smell as much as IPA.
Also make sure you have a mask with activated carbon filter.
Good video but time to update it. I have 10 printers 8 resin, 2 really good pla printers. My newest printer the anycubic M5 pro is super fast! that deadpool figure I could print that in around an hour and change in 14 K resolution, the PLA printer at the best quality setting cura has to offer would take (guessing here) 4-5 hours and I would still have layer lines. If I was doing a 6 inch circular base 4 inches tall, I'm looking at 3 -4 days. With resin it would be 3-4 hours
Well said. I have an original Ender 3. Yery fiddly machine, but with that tweaking I have made some great miniatures. I just don't have the space for a resin machine. This is a great video for beginners.
I can produce 100+ 40k miniatures in about 12 -14 hrs with a resin printer. 👍👍
Just my 2cents of info.
Great video
Thank you for sharing
I currently use a Halot mage 8k 👍
Good machine , good price
Games Workshop must LOVE you!
It takes 6 hours to get a large figure printed in two halves with a resin printer but FDM can take two hours for the same large model. But prints from a resin printer will not have layer grooves. My question is which printer has the least amount of waste factor?
Great video. Really good advice
Great video, thanks. I am looking to start 3D printing, mainly for gaming (and painting) miniatures around 25 - 32mm. I do have a dedicated space in the garage to print in so it looks like resin might be the better option. Quick (and maybe silly) question, how does temperature affect printing? We can have some extremes of temperature here. In summer it can get up to 40 degrees while in Winter (i.e. now for me) it got down to -6 last night. My planned area is enclosed but not climate controlled - would this affect printing quality? Thanks for your help.
Yes, temperature can affect resin printing. The manufacturers of the resin usually list the temperature range you can use. For example, standard Anycubic resin has a recommended temperature range of between 18 to 35 degrees Celsius. I've been able to print successfully in my garage in temperatures as low as 13 degrees Celsius. -6 would likely cause issues with the prints.
@@FigureFeedback Thanks, Jeremy. Good to know as I make the case for a 3D printer to Mrs Fish.
Thanks! Hoping to start soon.