I got to say, this video was scuffed, in the best way possible. A lot of 3D printing youtubers do their videos in a way where it seems like they are perfect everytime. And whilebthats beneficial whenbthe goal is just to communicate information, i really appreciate this more realistic look into the process. Because i think its very evident that your experience here is way more similar to what any of us would actually experience using resin for the first time, and you dont really get those expectations from other videos. I appreciate the sincerity of everything in this video
This! So much this! That's why I subscribed to channel in first place. Coz Jonathan is more like real person dealing with everyday problems (budget, size constraints, fails etc). Not 3D printing God, who has infinit budget, never makes mistakes and knows everything instantly all the time
I will give you my prespective.. i was an FDM guy, built my printers did my own firmware etc. I wanted to try resin so i got a mars 2 pro. I loved the detail, so much so it got me into painting, and now i have 4 resin machines, 1 mars 3 pro, 1 sat 2, 1 phenom forge, 1 m3 max. I dont use FDM anymore for anything. It def changed my life. Like seriously. I paint for majority of my income now.
I'm looking to make, paint my own characters. What 3d printer would you reccomend? A Mars something? Obviously I would like all the little details... and best for price.
I don't usually engage (commenting, liking) with content that I watch. I also understand this video is over 1 year old. With all that said, I had to like, and comment just to recognize how refreshing it is for a creator to go over their sponsorship and conflicts of interest as honestly as we see it happening here. Awesome!
I started my own resin printing journey a few weeks ago, and I prepared by watching a ton of videos and reading a ton of articles on suggestions for beginners - having a silicone work mat, having a big funnel to put those paint filters in when straining out resin or the wash liquid, using a hair dryer to get the alcohol off the print prior to post-curing, and having a room air purifier have all made things go quite smoothly. Also a big plus, though I don't know if it's always recommended for beginners, was getting a flex plate instead of having to chisel prints off of the stock build plate. For what it's worth, having the room air purifier and a box of disposable nitrile gloves has made me feel safe enough, though my intent one day is to put the resin printer inside a grow tent (possibly with some minor heating if needed) that is ventilated outdoors to really keep the fumes to a minimum. I got a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K and the smaller Anycubic Wash & Cure station, and have so far printed with just two different resins: SirayaTech Blu Clear V2 and Elegoo ABS-Like Gray...the differences have been quite interesting so far, with the Blu being quite a bit more viscous and having a much stronger smell and the Elegoo resin needing a lot more work to get the exposure settings dialed in just right. I've done a few D&D miniatures, some jewelry-type items, and even a lithophane, something I tried and failed at with my Ender 3 a few years ago. I'm looking forward to trying to make much more than simple decorative pieces. Things I've read suggest mixing a flexible resin (such as SirayaTech Tenacious) with standard resins really helps improve the overall toughness of prints, whether for miniatures/terrain that see a lot of use or the more functional kinds of prints that are currently still the domain of FDM printers. I'm also having to constantly talk myself out of getting a small electric furnace and/or an electroplating setup (shoutout to Hen3Drik) so I can make metal jewelry with the resin printer...I'm probably one of the small number of people that would rather melt zinc or copper to make solid metal jewelry than try and paint something. All in all, great video! It's important for people looking to get into a hobby like this one that things won't always go according to plan and that troubleshooting is part of the learning process.
If you want to make metal parts, there is a better option: cold casting. Print out an object. Use tin-cured silicone to make a mold of your object. Then mix epoxy resin and metal powder together, and cast the epoxy into the mold. Now you have a metal object. And you can easily cast as many times as you want, the silicone mold is reusable.
First- excellent video. I'm glad you showed the issues you had. For anyone watching this, it's worth spending rime watching videos on exposure and supports. Exposure first. The recommended default settings may or may not work depending on your room temperature. The further you are below 25 C, the longer the exposure time you need. The best way to determine this is using the "Cones of Calibration V2." Do a search example to find them. As for resins, all resins have different exposure times based on the manufacturer. Often the deviations are more than you see between manufacturers with the same type of filament. Then there are significant changes in exposure based on the resin type. Similar to the changes between filament types. ANY change in resin requires testing your exposure at a minimum. Try printing pre-supported models first as the automatic supports in most slicers can be hit or miss and you'll get frustrated by the support failures. Everything else he talks about regarding ventilation, safety, etc., is spot on.
A word about 3D resin printing safety: It's not _that_ bad, but I would very much recommend to anyone who wants to get into 3D resin printing to first make sure that there is good ventilation and *extraction.* An open door or window won't help much if the fumes aren't actually being sucked out. I had no problem with my old Elegoo Mars 3 which is quite a small printer, but I immediately experienced toxic effects from the fumes when I replaced it with the bigger Elegoo Saturn 2. Don't take chances with your health or the health of anyone else who may be exposed to the fumes. Don't rely on a carbon filter; I've not seen any evidence yet that a carbon filter - even a big proper one - will remove VOC's. A mask is fine, but the bigger problem with 3D resin printing is that if the printer is inside the home, the heavier-than-air VOC fumes will slowly build up over the course of a few hours and you may begin to experience toxic effects. I certainly do. My solution was to move my printer outside into a shed away from the house (still a WIP - I'll have to slap together a DIY insulated and heated cupboard if I want to run it during the Winter months) but for those people who have no option but to print inside the home, grow-tents are recommended by some people, and I found out about a pretty cool device called a *hydroxyl generator* which neutralizes VOC's in an enclosed space. They're not cheap though.
@@herculeholmes504 Any tips for extraction gear? I’m considering options for an area where I might set up a 3d printer and my wife may be doing jewelry making, which has its own fume concerns.
Carbon filters absolutely remove VOCs. Made With Layers even designed a cusyom sensor box and showed graphs of the PM and VOC counts before and after installing HEPA & carbon filters. (HEPA filters are not chemically reactive,only the carbon would have been doing anything to refuce VOCs) This is simply a well known chemical fact. You can even find a video by The Modern Rogue where they use activated carbon to make gas masks and test them with a high strength capscasin gas. With that said, some filters, notably the Nevermore Stealthmax, are going even further beyond and experimenting woth using UV light and metal meshes to break down VOCs even without carbon, so it's not the only option.
I bought my first resin printer this past winter, and once I got over the cold basement issues with a heating pad, it's been great. I have both the Anycubic Mono 4K and the Wash and Cure station and they've both been great. I just installed the flexible buildplate and the prints come out great. I love it for things that I need in detail and the quality is just astonishing. I still use my Ender 3 a ton more but the Mono 4K is an absolutely great printer
I really appreciate your videos, to answer the question will I be getting involved with resin 3d printing, I will not at least till it becomes less toxic. I’ll stick with the FDM printing. Thanks again for the video
Amazing video! I consider that it is a very objective analysis, and you make your opinions very clear as personal. By the way, excellent format for "my experience", incredibly funny.
My wife prints with resin. She loves it. But she worked with UV resin before 3d printing was a thing. Also it's not just for miniatures, it's more dimensionally accurate than fdm due to the smaller layer lines, so I feel you will find it fits in with what you typically print nicely.
I thought it's good for functional parts too. I do not have a resin printer yet but, from what I can see, you can buy special resin from places like Siraya Tech that has exceptional strength. Is it true that you can make things as strong (if not stronger) than with FDM printers? I say stronger because you don't have weak layer adhesion on the Z axis. So, other than the mess and noxious fumes, I see no downside to resin printing except for smaller build volumes.
@@ChristmasEve777 A lot of the material is not as strong as a lot of fdm materials, but the adhesion between layers is a lot better (I dont want to say all because there are certainly some very strong resins). The trick with FDM is to print in an orientation so that the force wont stress the adhesion between layers. Really the advantage of resin is greater dimensional accuracy. At work we mainly use pcabs on fdm printers but whenever we need tight tolerances on a snap or reduced friction on a moving part, or two forces in different directions where one will always split the layers we use the SLA printer. A downside of resin printing is the print time due to the smaller layer height. A small, not very complex part I started this afternoon had a print time of 22hrs. The same model might be 3 or 4 hours in fdm. 6hrs max.
@@richpaul6806 you gotta get the newer resin printers, I can make 6 faceplates at work in 22minutes, where it would take me 3-4hours on FDM. The new nFEP films are much faster!
I've got both, and there's a ton of stuff to learn and work with the resin printers. Just like FDM, each resin is really unique in exposure times, light off times, etc. I will say this - get better resins. The higher quality resins do not have the strong odors that the cheaper ones do. I'm partial to the Elegoo ABS Like resins.. low odor, very strong, and easy to print with. good luck!
Def steering clear of resin printing for now. Getting into FDM printing and it is all I ever dreamed of. Appreciate your work Jonathan, you have some great videos.
Keep playing with resin, I'm happy to watch your excellent vids and learn from your experience, Oh and i can learn a lot whilst avoiding exposure to the fumes :)
This video format is excellent for this type of video, great job! I’m considering getting a resin printer, but the fume extraction, high toxicity, and space and cleanliness required are sort of a problem, I think I’d want a large enclosed desk with a massive silicone desk surface, and walls a roof and a door, as well as fume extraction and/or a really good air scrubber, there’s not enough space for that now unfortunately
you just gained a shit load of respect from me. Thank you for being up front and transparent about the bias in the video. Personally. I dont think it takes away from what is clearly displayed, personally. However, your clarity speaks volumes on your character and how you view your work. Definitely subscribed and excited to see more vid's. Thanks again.
I like this video, your first steps as a newbie in resin printing. Well done. And yes, please make more videos about resin printing. From time to time. And like you said, safety first!
Stay away from IPA unless you like to waste money. You can get methyl hydrate or methylated spirits for far less money and they arguably work better. Resin is pretty easy once you have your workflow figured out. I rarely clean anything when I'm printing. Put the gloves on, take the build plate off and into the washing machine, wash, take out and pop off the plate (magnetic flex plates work wonders), wipe the buildplate off with a small piece of paper towel and put it back into the machine, top up the resin in the vat, start the next print. It's handy to soak your print in hot tap water after it's cleaned to easily remove the supports. Once it's dry, cure it.
I have also recently got my hands on a SLA printer. I got mine from Elegoo and the quality is exceptional with some caviats. I totally agree with you that it is a mess, even other RUclipsrs are warning about this. If you are careful enough and clean any spillage after each print, it is fine and not that toxic. I am even thinking to get an air purifier for the space that I am using the printer. Other tips I can share: - Get silicon covers for the surfaces infront and around the printer. They will save your workbench from the resin and you can easily toss them outside on the sun for a few hours to clean them more easily. - Get paper towels. I use them on top of the silicon covers when I am moving the prints out of the bed and also cleaning any remaining resin from the tank after transfering the resin back to the bottle and run the clean tank exposure. - Get plastic cups that can contain around 300-500ml of liquid. I use those for when I need to transfre the excess resin from the tank to the bottle or clean the washing station. - Try washable resin. I have ordered a few bottles to test it out. They advertise it as nearly odourless, safer and easy to wash with tap water. By the way, depending on what resin you use and how big the objects are the IPA can be used for up to 30 prints.
Good video. I really liked that you showed the learning as you went. I have been really pleased with the water washable resin.... saves a TON of money on the FDM, seems to have less fumes (I still use an air filter) and less chemicals in the washing / post process. I have still yet to really find a good post clean up formula for wash and cure times... so I just experiment and do my best... would love if you do a video about that some time... otherwise I am just doing the "yeah that sounds like a good number" like you did.
Very interesting look at it. Have been on the fence for awhile now on getting into the resin scene but after that video I think im going to take the plunged. Great vid!
I'm trying to find a gift for my teenage D&D gamer kids and thought this would be fun. I appreciate your well rounded review! I wasn't thinking about the toxic fumes and materials for where they'd do this. You've given me a lot to consider and if the Pros outweigh the Cons. Thank you!
if you're still looking for a good gift, take a look at the Bambu A1 Mini. It's a small FDM printer, so no toxic fumes or materials, and it's packed full of sensors that make it work right out of the box with next to no manual calibration. It's basically an appliance, one that even small children could learn to use. You can also get a 0.2mm nozzle for it that can print incredibly detailed miniatures. it's what I use for my D&D campaigns.
A couple notes on PPE: prolonged exposure to the fumes can cause eventual health issues, but eye contact will cause very immediate issues (very possibly leading to spills and other accidents that you will be unable to deal with promptly) and possible permanent damage to your vision. Eye protection should be your very highest priority. Also, your greatest exposure to fumes and splash hazard is when you're removing and cleaning the part, not when you're pouring resin into the printer.
Safety tip: Loose the beard so that no air/fumes can come past the rubber of the mask, a beard don't make the mask work perfekt. And I am thinking about resin to treat some parts and models to make them 100% water tight, and to find out if they get stronger.
@@thenextlayer kind of mask that you where waring is a good mask if you don't have any beard, by having beard it is not tight around the mouth. So either a full face mask or no beard
Really cool video, very informative to first users. Thank you for creating! And yeah I print 3D a lot, mostly layered since of testing before I can finish products in a Resin. So yes of course I would like you to create more 3D printing content. Will be fun, there isn't endless things to teach about it maybe. But related subjects and updates would be cool to get.
I'm really bad with messy things and I definitely don't want to be handling toxic stuff . . . so not for me. I'm also the kind of person who is into more functional prints and am not too concerned about layer lines and such, so I'll be sticking with FDM personally. Although a word about reliability: Most of the unreliability really stems from badly built printers. Something like the Ender 3 is very cheap, but it's also terribly built, and I ended up replacing a bunch of parts to make it reliable. If I were to buy another printer, I'd bite the bullet and buy a Prusa. They're known to be great workhorses and they're open source so I can make it my own.
I went the opposite direction. I have been resin printing for years and just got my first fdm printer (creality k1c) I'm having a lot of fun printing the things that either wouldn't fit in my Saturn S or just wouldn't work with resin very well due to its material properties. I still use resin for a lot of things. If you need something detailed it just can't be beat.
Quick tip for you, if you put more IPA in your wash station it doesn't smash your prints about, and let your print dry before post curing. Hope you keep it up mate, great video
It's always interesting to see how a newcomer experiences first time resin printing. What always gets me on RUclips is how the noxious vapors problem is presented. Depending of the brand, yes, liquid resin can stink. But honestly, the respiratory risk you may encounter with UV resin is WHEN IT'S PRINTING, not just in its uncured or cured state. So it's a good thing the printing chamber is sealed during printing and now printers are sold with active carbon filters inside just for that. The VOC cartridge mask is unnecessary just to fill up the vat. Nitrile gloves (latex won't do) on the other hand are always always mandatory. BUT there's one moment when putting that mask is necessary: it's when you start handling liters of Isopropyl alcohol to clean the parts. That volume of alcohol can be fairly detrimental to your health, give nausea, headaches and implies a very well ventilated area. Note, Jonathan is not using his mask at that moment when it would be most useful. The solvent handling part of the post processing to me is the main hassle of UV resin printing. IPA is costly, a respiratory hazard, is a pain to recycle or dispose of when it becomes mixed with resin as a cleaning solution but offers the best cleaning possible, industrial degreasers or methylated spirits being close seconds. And none of them are risk free to handle or easy to recycle. To reduce cost, I'm using ethanol (aka methylated spirits) for the 1st cleaning bath and IPA for the finish one. The print gets enclosed in a sealed thin plastic tub with the iPA and floated in water for 6mn max in an ultrasonic cleaner with the heat off and always supervised. That's the same way mechanical parts can be cleaned with flammable solvents in a ultrasonic cleaner btw (don't leave them for long, always be present, always put them in a sealed container immersed in water). Parts always come out squeaky clean with crisp details. Remember, you can get a print from a high definition printer but if there's still residue on it because it wasn't cleaned enough, it's going to mar the details of the finished product.
To correct this statement, FAR more VoCs are release during the washing & curing process, than during the actual printing. (Oddly enough since we use IPA and it evaporates at room temperature.)
Great video. I still remember myfirst experience with resin printers. I started with the anycubic photon mono when it was first released, a whopping 2K machine. I now have 3 resin printers including the new 12K phrozen. I have 4 FDM printers and I honestly dont have a preferred way to print. It all depends on what I want to accomplish in the end. Resin has way more clean up than FDM but as you said it takes more time to tweak the prints to get good prints. Definitely now with the new Bambulabs that has drastically changed. Education is the key to resin printing. There are definitely concerns but you just educate yourself. I dont think a full respirator is necessary. I find the IPA is far more of an issue breathing in than the resin. I will never handle resin bare handed but havent found the need for a full respirator, I do wear a mask at all times, at least an N95 rated mask not just a dust mask that they send with the printers. Definitely get the small filters as they help immensely with the smell, I use 2 in my Phrozen printer which is now my go to resin printer. The new resins coming out don't smell as bad either and you can get water washable one as well. The wash and cure systems are a must. On you anycubic cure station you can bend the top portion of the UV bar after you remove the vat to increase the efficacy of the cure. Love the video and your style! Oh and Jonathan dont let your mom do resin printing! 😅
I recently bought the Creality Halot One and I love it. I use Anycubic ABS-Like Resin+ (it offers the right properties for my needs) and it STINKS. Did one print in the house then moved it out to the garage. I didn't immediately by the wash and cure machine, but after a month for the Anycubic one. That makes all the difference. My workflow is not too messy, but it's all in the garage, requires mask and a lot of disposable gloves. There results are perfect, though, and it's easier than FDM to get good prints.
I buy the 7mil gloves. They're more expensive, but you can re-use them 10 times or more. They're easy to take off if you clean them with a little alcohol first. A silicone spatula works well for wiping the top of the plate before taking it out, less resin waste also, and keeps the wash cleaner if you stick everything in there. Flex plates make printing, washing, and model removal easier. I wash my functional parts on the plate, then just pop them off.
Eye protection is good also. Splashes and shooting support pieces can really suck. Making a handle for the top of the wash and cure is a must. It really helps keep things clean. I have a hinged cover for the printer, but you might want a handle for that, also. Make note, there is a large difference in smell between different resins. I've had "low odor" resins that smelled worse than regular ones.
I like the video. Went through the same issues with the test print provided by manufacturer . But when I went to my other prints, exposure settings,and supports....I spent the last year hitting my head against a wall. Lol. I even let it sit for a few months and going back to it. But thankfully there are lots of support from the community.
Heheh, it’s always fun watching noobs do resin 3D printing for the first time, having already gone through the hoops myself, now every print comes out nearly every time. Let me offer a couple of useful tips for anycubic resin printing. Before starting that very first print, what everyone must do (but they don’t tell you in the manual) 1) apply a release agent to the inside of the resin vat fep. This is the reason for your first 2 print failures and more failures will occur if you don’t regularly apply release agent to the fep, I do this every time after each print, it’s just a part of clean up process. 2) don’t fill the vat to the max level, just use an amount appropriate to your part to make cleanup easier. 3) anycubic photon slicer requires all models to be sliced in anycubic’s photon slicer mine uses a .pwma file format but they maybe different for your specific printer. If you want to use chitubox or lychee which I do absolutely recommend for generating supports, you’ll want to save the model with the supports as an .stl file and then import it into photon slicer for final slicing, if you slice with any other slicer , your prints will fail (or never even begin) at least this is how it was when I got started a year ago and I haven’t bothered to check if that’s been fixed) but if you run into any problems with that just remember to try and slice only with anycubic’s proprietary slicing software and you will be good to go. And finally 4) the best advice I can give with supports is rotate your models so that they are not parallel to any of the 3 axis and orientate your model with the side you want to be the cleanest opposite the build plate clear of supports. Lastly, there are some tips worth mentioning for cleanup, but this is getting a bit long, go ahead and let me know if you want those as well! Thanks for the video bro! Good luck!
Oh and remember to calibrate your resin exposure settings! These will be different for each resin has different exposure profiles, dial in the manufacturers suggested settings with calibration tests to get the ideals you’re comfortable with
I use resin for TT games and selling. And there is a solution. An air tight grow tent for $40 plus an exhaust fan and some hose leading out a window can fully ventilate your tent of all toxic fumes. Cap the exhaust hose when you’re done for the day so nothing leaks out over night and you’re 100% resin free and always working in a small chemical containment area for less than $100.
When you're given a product to review, it's like testing a Christmas gift. I especially like that you haven't done resin yet. Me either, always seemed like a huge mess. You're gonna help me with the decision!
well i do say initially cleaning is a pain but with some vids and tips on how to do it its less painful there are some vids that show how to use a metal tray or a silicon mat with a rim to allow for no spillage and you just isolate the resin bottle on there with the build plate and vat use paper towels and microfiber cloths cut into bits to clean of course it takes time and practice but once your use to it it just becomes something your normally do for ventilation there are fume boxes kinda like tents with a ventilation hose attached to it u can either use a charcoal foam filter block inside the hose or directly connect it outside if thos are not a option there are air purifiers that are usb rechargeable and fit beside your vat to purify the fumes of the resin
I have the same printer. It sits quietly in my shed where the fumes can't hurt my family. The only thing I use it for is for prints that need to be heat resistant.
I absolutely love that you showed that your first print failed completely. Realistically, even when following instructions (the original, multiple websites and youtube videos) the first 1-3 prints will always fail. In my case, the first 8 prints failed until i realised that the build plate of my Elegoo Mars Pro was messed up from factory. I spend 1.5 hours of sanding with 600 grit on a surface plate, and only THEN Prints actually worked. Not wanting to spend even more money on the Wash and Cure station, i tried water washable resin and was disappointed every time. In addition to that, im probably allergic to this type of resin as i get really horrible headaches from it in less than 10 minutes. Have only used the printer maybe 2-3 times since then and will probably scrap it for the linear rail to put on my Ender 3 lol. For anyone reading this: Always remember that Resin is VERY TOXIC. If you have FDM printers, stay with those. In my experiences, resin printers are only good Figurines or other miniatures and nothing else.
Just so you know, saw a different youtuber testing those air purifier thingies and apparently they get rid of the smell but are mostly inefficient when it comes to reducing the evil chemical particles in the air.
I don't think I'll be getting into resin printing any time soon due to the size limitations, but at some point probably; nice video showing your first experience with it, as well as things to look out for for if and or when that day ever does come SeemsGood
I have to make this clear i cannot stress this enough! I am 3 or 4 months into resin printing and got it down to a fine art understanding all the slicer settings etc but this what people keep saying abiut it being a messy job its just how messy you the user wants to make it! I have 3 printers and work on 2 of them cheap plastic dinner service trays, with paper towl down and your plastic scrapers and your metal one to hand but the plastic razors i use the most, i don't use that metal scrapper if don't need to! Point is i have this small tray area thats perfect for laying down your plate removing even 1.4 scale statues i do with little to no mess! The build plate you scrape that clean with your plastic scraper whe first remove it top first youll get the resin to sit in a pool on top of the scraper and just pour it back in the vat! Its simple just work at being cleaner its not a messey job atoll!
Thank you. You have re-affirmed my conclusion about branching into resin. I picked up my Bambu X1C just today, so that will keep me off the streets for a while. Much as I would like the option of resin printing for fine mechanical parts, my workspace is a 3m x 3m carpeted room in the middle of the house, so it is absolutely out of the question. So once my shiny new FFF printer is bedded in I'll look at getting a 0.2mm nozzle for when I want to make a tiny/prices part.
for me, procedure to ensure reliable performance is my preferred system. FDM is like cooking with out knowing the other persons recipe you almost have to be a chef your self to diagnose problems. (mechanical issues) where as resin printers i see more as cooking with Gordon Ramsey yelling at your back. sure it's stressful but as long as you listen and follow procedure you'll get a far better result than the alternative.
I just got into resin printing and bought the exact models of printer and wash/cure station you have there a couple of weeks before finding your channel, although sadly the cure station suffered with a warped turntable so it's really just a wash station right now 😂. Been having loads of fun with it although I did have a much harder job removing the test cube from the print bed than you did so possibly doing something wrong, 3 prints in with (touch wood) no failures so far, expecting to have many now I have said that. Will be interested to watch your other videos as I am fairly new to fdm printing too
I jut had a sponsor tell me not to publish a video and forget it after showing my failures with their resin printer as part of a video for their new printer 😂
Thx... this video was an eye opener... I already thought about getting a resin printer... but the whole chemical handling and the small build plate, and the need of a washer / curer is a no - go to me. I see why others are using it, but I simply don't need it. Thx for this video.
Tip: water-washable resin. It isn't less messy, but it saves on IPA ;-) And the transparent Elegoo ones are so nice and make curing thicker parts so much easier (transparent, dooh).
@@br0k3nilluzion Also, not any "safer" or "better for the environment". And then you have to find a way to handle the contaminated water (not safe to dump down the drain, it's just as toxic.)
I just ordered a $99 resin printer because it's cheap and I've had less than satisfactory results printing some very small parts. But yeah, right now I'd diving deep into the safety aspects. Rather than trying to ventilate my shop I'm thinking of building a heated box so that I can do the prints outdoors.
I got an Anycubic Mono 4k for using to make things for my N scale model RR. Some things that small can not be printed on my Ender 3v2. I find the learning curve for the slicer to be very large. Especially trying a building or RR car that has straight lines.
It's just a different set of skills to learn. FDM and Resin both need supports, for example, but there are different considerations in adding supports for each. But the products you make with each couldn't be further apart. Resin is going to be a lot more appealing at entry level pricepoints, I think, because while it might make smaller things, they're nice-looking, rivaling store-bought products in many ways. FDM's advantages shine when it comes to larger models and multi-colored prints, but those models are a lot more expensive, and even then the products they make are very obviously 3D printed.
I think your confusion on the price comes from a misnomer common in the community. What you have is a DLP printer, not an SLA one. The technologies are somewhar similar but the cost and need for replacement parts is very different.
My first experience with resin printers was about 11-12 years ago when I picked up a desktop 3D Systems resin printer system for our ME students and faculty to explore. What a complete waste of $15K back then. And what surprised me the most when I started watching this vid, is how nothing has really changed in the process. Same exact thing. Lots of nasty sticky chemicals to handle, UV lights, and extremally high failure rates of prints. We had the factory techs come down many many times to help us try to get it sorted out, but in the end I just turned the entire system over to some grad students and put it in a room with large enough fume hood to put it all into for occasional use and mostly safe storage. Thank you for the brutally honest reality of what using these resin printers is all about. Well done! You actually got my gut twisted in a knot from triggering me with it! All the horror and wasted time! No thank you!
I love this video I just Excribed to you. To see more like this Risen and Filament. Videos that you come up with. Just show everyone I am looking forward to seeing On your videos.
I have been dabbling in SLA for a couple years now. Buying 99% IPA is a must and, at that purity, it can be fairly easily "cleaned" several times for reuse, saving cost. Plus, if you are smart about it, you setup a bath container that you rinse tools and such in to save IPA. I found water-washable resin cost to match that of normal resin+99%IPA on the whole, and such "ECO" resins are safer from a handleability standpoint, not a disposal standpoint. They also tend to require longer layer and post-cure times, wasting energy (and time). Magnetic build plates for SLA printers exist and I found them to be heavenly for preserving bottom layer quality vs scraping them off a firm plate. I also love my stainless steel filter funnel! So much better than plastic funnels and paper filters (there's your eco and savings). Get a small air filter for inside the SLA, too...helps tons with the smell and I'm *SHOCKED* Anycubic didn't include one since that's exactly who I bought mine from! Just like with FDM, once you get familiar with everything, you start to learn more tips and tricks for an easier time working with resin.
14:00 I don’t understand the question here. You talk about what a pain diagnosing a bad fdm print is but it took you 3 attempts to print that cube thing and it wasn’t at all clear as to what the problem was. So the choice appears to be: deal with the “hassle” of diagnosing failed fdm prints or deal with the hassle of failed resin prints on top of working with dangerous chemicals.
one thing i got the resin printer for is actually for printing replacement gears out of ABS like and other hard materials. so you could actually look more into using it for practical printing as well :) replacement parts for small electronics like headphones too.
I attempted Resin printing for 4 months and never got a single fully successful print. There was always some flaw whether it be small or a complete fail. Gave up and sold my Photon mono 4k and put the money on an X1C and a P1S to replace my Ender 3s.
I'm currently building a 60" model of Captain Nemo's Nautilus. The way I see it, print the hull and bulkier item with the FDM, and the more detailed parts with the resin. I'd recommend both in your shop.
FYI you have the filters installed wrong on your respirator. They should face back and forth not up and down. Also you don’t need the pre filters. Those are for particles. I vent my fumes directly outside. Enjoyed the video 👍🏻
🇨🇦/🇺🇸... Like you, I am mainly interested in utilitarian prints but that is actually why I wanted to investigate resin printing, purchasing the same model "mono 2" printer. The LAYER weaknesses inherent in FDM prints make it poor for some items that need strength and when I saw that there were some very strong (though expensive) resins available (phrozen Onyx Impact Plus 3D Printing Resin) I thought it worthwhile to get a handle on this technology. I'm finding that to be VERY safe seriously adds to the expense, however, and as I'm in a one-bedroom walk-up apartment where the ventilation is shared, I'm trying to be extra careful with opening the windows wide.
If you don't have a wash and cure you can definitely reuse the IPA. For my first year I used Tupperware containers to clean in, just put the lid on when done and it stays until next time.
Anycubic resin printer was my first an it prints amazing..i enjoy this one a bit better then dealin with the whole different settings for filament never though be so hard to even get prints to stick to bed or diff settings jus to get a print goin then resin jus model ..put supports...clean an cure...now fui future get those dual charcoal filters from amazon thatll fit in the anycubic to help with the fumes with resin in a small area i have em an works great in my apt by a window
I have a variety of both fdm and resin printers in my shop. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages. But there is no question that resin prints deliver much higher detail and less sanding and post processing minus washing and curing. But fdm has the ability to making larger and stronger parts and is “cheaper” in respects to materials. I’m not familiar with the resin used in this video but the resins I use have virtually no smell. It will burn your skin though so gloves are a must. For models and some cosplay a combination of resin and fdm are pretty nice in respects to finish and detail. Personally I’d like a bit larger resin printer but to step up to what I’d like is very pricey not that the larger resin printers I own are small but I’d like bigger…….
Great walk-through of the process 👍 I would prefer a DLP projection for the UV. It seems as a better option in the long run. I still don't think the process is mature enough. As you mentioned, the filtering in the chamber is a better solution in the long run. I would prefer a resin "run out" sensor implemented from the start as well. I love the implemented wash/cure station though, a big step in the right direction. Great walk-through of your expirence.
On the resin run-out idea - there are a few different printers coming out this year with resin auto-fill. But I suppose you're still need to know how much is in the bottle!
@@davedavem Those are a major move in the right direction, but if they're like the one on the Jupiter (very similar to a kitty bowl refiller), I probably can't use one, and a lot of other folks can't either. The engineering mixes people use if they don't print miniatures (and even mini printers sometimes employ if they sell b/c shattering is bad for business) are too viscous for the feeder. Warming band might work, but strong & tappable resins are $50, 70, 100+ a liter depending on properties & I'd be concerned about degradation if they were stored warm in the feeder jug for long periods of time. They also separate & need to be agitated periodically.
My experience has not been great. Over the past year that I've had my Anycubic Mono X 6K, it's worked great on maybe 25% of the print attempts. I had to put mine in the basement, but still needed good ventilation, so I built a full enclosure for it (made of plywood & sealed up tight), complete with a chicken coop heating pad and extractor fan that blows out parallel to our clothes dryer via a dedicated duct. Just prior to the enclosure, I was getting a few prints to work, but as soon as I put the printer in its new cozy home, I couldn't get it to work. I tried all kinds of variations on the settings, even put in the tiny heater I was using before the enclosure (blowing right on the printer) for additional heat... even though I was maintaining 80-85F in the enclosure. I have been told that maybe the resin is bad, maybe it sat in Amazon's warehouse too long. I will try it again with new resin, likely ordered direct from a manufacturer this time, but I'm less than thrilled about wasting more resin. At this point, I'm thinking that paying friends or a service to print what I want may be the way to go if all else fails.
Resin printers dont scale well. larger printers are far more prone to failed prints than small ones. I started with a photon zero and that almost never failed even when i left the window open in winter and it was like -5C out.
Really appreciate this video. I have wanted a resin printer for over three years now sense I first got into FDM printing. I can't really find a reason I need one, but I love detailed figures and with so many existing of beloved characters from especially video games or just mythical things and creations, I find myself in a want vs need battle. With how much you need to go through prep wise and protection wise, I can't see a viable enough reason to by one. (And everything else you need to buy with it) I just really wish I had a friend who did resin printing so I could just pay them for the figures I wanted. I know services like that exist but the price for them seems unreasonable.
I bought an Anycubic first, which worked fine but I hated the toxic glop. Then I bought the Bambu x1c and that’s all I’ve very happily used since. However, videos like yours will eventually get me to use both. Thanks.
I really like the idea and abilities of SLS, but I don't like the idea of those awful chemicals. I'm hoping someone will figure out a non-toxic resin. Then I will be all over it immediately.
I have experiences with resin 3D printers, right now I own Elegoo Mars 2 pro and I agree with the mess, but you can upgrade the printer. You can use handles to the lid, you can print with PTEG new filler for the resin bottle and make carbon filters to filter the smell. FDM printers are easy and great but the details in Resin printers are much better and after painting the prints, you will be shock.
"I am not looking forward to emptying that vat again...." LOL! My sentiments exactly. Personally, I don't like the process and cost of resin printing. In my 3D print work, I have little but specific use for the process. BUT, thanks for the video. It took me back when I started to explore it.
I agree with the conclusion of this video!!! But it is still annoying... Maybe it's fun the first time but if you are making lots of prints... not so fun. I turned a bathroom into a print room to be lazy with cleanup and then printed thousands of parts. I didn't know about the respirator but the resin stunk so bad! After 3 days of printing I got sick and I still needed to print so many parts on an order. I decided to buy a respirator but it didn't come with the correct filters and I was getting sicker. I then spent the big bucks and got the nice filters. Which worked wonders! After that job, I didn't want to touch the printer ever again! I ended up selling them. I do love the simplicity of the printer! I do love the detail! I do love making yellowish but mostly clear parts! But the fumes and clean up are too much for me.
Excellent video as to be expected from you. One thing you weren't able to emphasize properly though is the exceedingly high overall cost of resin printing compared to filament printing due to the consumable materials cost. It may not be an issue to some but for those with a budget, it requires consideration.
the real cost is to your health when you get liver cancer or cirrocis from inhaling that crap also don't depend on scam companies like 3M their organic vapor filters do nothing at all and are just safety theater also those respirators contain lots of PFOA's and they sewt them out in the form of an oil that gets all over your skin
I stayed away from resin printing because of the toxic nature of the resin and the resulting waste ipa. By chance creality was having an Easter sales and I bought the cheapest resin printer they made the Halot One at £99 with free 1kg of resin which cost £30, so for me it was a cheap way to see if I could get into resin printing and live with the smells and toxic resin process. After what has been a few weeks, I have found the best way to deal with resin spills is to cure it with a uv lamp, as if you use ipa you just cause more mess. I had a large air purifier already that had hepa and carbon filters which when in use keeps the smell from spreading around the house, but I still use my mask which has organic compound filters just in case. Protective glasses are also a must unless you have a full face mask like myself. This sounds like over kill but long term exposure can cause a lot of health issues, even cancer. I love fdm printing but it has its limits when dealing with small parts, resin has been able to allow me to extend the range of items that I can print. I have just bought a creality Halot mage which is a substantial upgrade over the Halot one which has again expanded what I can produce between fdm and resin machines. Is resin for everyone…no, fdm is the better way to experiment with 3d printing unless you already have a need such as miniatures. Even then, make sure you have a location that is safe and well ventilated and provides a stable temperature environment at over 20degC.
planning on ordering an x1c soon and was thinking of trying resin printing too at the same time. being a tech for almost 40 years make my love for tinkering fun so thats the main reason i want to get into 3d printing. but as a tech ive been exposed to chemicals and smoke , smells etc.... and i dont really want that in my home. If i can build an encloser that safe and smell proof , i will most defiantly try resin printing
Great video! I bought a Mono X and Wash and cure station 3 months ago and they’ve been sitting on my shelf in the garage unused. I just can’t get up the courage to deal with the mess.
I got to say, this video was scuffed, in the best way possible. A lot of 3D printing youtubers do their videos in a way where it seems like they are perfect everytime. And whilebthats beneficial whenbthe goal is just to communicate information, i really appreciate this more realistic look into the process. Because i think its very evident that your experience here is way more similar to what any of us would actually experience using resin for the first time, and you dont really get those expectations from other videos. I appreciate the sincerity of everything in this video
This! So much this!
That's why I subscribed to channel in first place. Coz Jonathan is more like real person dealing with everyday problems (budget, size constraints, fails etc). Not 3D printing God, who has infinit budget, never makes mistakes and knows everything instantly all the time
This was me two years ago. Now I run a resin print farm. They are amazing once you get used to it.
I never learned a thing from doing it right the first time. Mistakes and issues form the best understanding of any technology.
I will give you my prespective.. i was an FDM guy, built my printers did my own firmware etc. I wanted to try resin so i got a mars 2 pro. I loved the detail, so much so it got me into painting, and now i have 4 resin machines, 1 mars 3 pro, 1 sat 2, 1 phenom forge, 1 m3 max. I dont use FDM anymore for anything. It def changed my life. Like seriously. I paint for majority of my income now.
so you print resin and paint them to sell. is this a fulltime income
I'm looking to make, paint my own characters. What 3d printer would you reccomend? A Mars something? Obviously I would like all the little details... and best for price.
Love the incredibly clear disclosure about the sponsor relation
Thanks! Appreciate the feedback
I don't usually engage (commenting, liking) with content that I watch. I also understand this video is over 1 year old. With all that said, I had to like, and comment just to recognize how refreshing it is for a creator to go over their sponsorship and conflicts of interest as honestly as we see it happening here. Awesome!
I started my own resin printing journey a few weeks ago, and I prepared by watching a ton of videos and reading a ton of articles on suggestions for beginners - having a silicone work mat, having a big funnel to put those paint filters in when straining out resin or the wash liquid, using a hair dryer to get the alcohol off the print prior to post-curing, and having a room air purifier have all made things go quite smoothly. Also a big plus, though I don't know if it's always recommended for beginners, was getting a flex plate instead of having to chisel prints off of the stock build plate. For what it's worth, having the room air purifier and a box of disposable nitrile gloves has made me feel safe enough, though my intent one day is to put the resin printer inside a grow tent (possibly with some minor heating if needed) that is ventilated outdoors to really keep the fumes to a minimum.
I got a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K and the smaller Anycubic Wash & Cure station, and have so far printed with just two different resins: SirayaTech Blu Clear V2 and Elegoo ABS-Like Gray...the differences have been quite interesting so far, with the Blu being quite a bit more viscous and having a much stronger smell and the Elegoo resin needing a lot more work to get the exposure settings dialed in just right. I've done a few D&D miniatures, some jewelry-type items, and even a lithophane, something I tried and failed at with my Ender 3 a few years ago.
I'm looking forward to trying to make much more than simple decorative pieces. Things I've read suggest mixing a flexible resin (such as SirayaTech Tenacious) with standard resins really helps improve the overall toughness of prints, whether for miniatures/terrain that see a lot of use or the more functional kinds of prints that are currently still the domain of FDM printers. I'm also having to constantly talk myself out of getting a small electric furnace and/or an electroplating setup (shoutout to Hen3Drik) so I can make metal jewelry with the resin printer...I'm probably one of the small number of people that would rather melt zinc or copper to make solid metal jewelry than try and paint something.
All in all, great video! It's important for people looking to get into a hobby like this one that things won't always go according to plan and that troubleshooting is part of the learning process.
If you want to make metal parts, there is a better option: cold casting. Print out an object. Use tin-cured silicone to make a mold of your object. Then mix epoxy resin and metal powder together, and cast the epoxy into the mold. Now you have a metal object. And you can easily cast as many times as you want, the silicone mold is reusable.
First- excellent video. I'm glad you showed the issues you had.
For anyone watching this, it's worth spending rime watching videos on exposure and supports. Exposure first. The recommended default settings may or may not work depending on your room temperature. The further you are below 25 C, the longer the exposure time you need. The best way to determine this is using the "Cones of Calibration V2." Do a search example to find them.
As for resins, all resins have different exposure times based on the manufacturer. Often the deviations are more than you see between manufacturers with the same type of filament. Then there are significant changes in exposure based on the resin type. Similar to the changes between filament types. ANY change in resin requires testing your exposure at a minimum.
Try printing pre-supported models first as the automatic supports in most slicers can be hit or miss and you'll get frustrated by the support failures.
Everything else he talks about regarding ventilation, safety, etc., is spot on.
A word about 3D resin printing safety: It's not _that_ bad, but I would very much recommend to anyone who wants to get into 3D resin printing to first make sure that there is good ventilation and *extraction.* An open door or window won't help much if the fumes aren't actually being sucked out. I had no problem with my old Elegoo Mars 3 which is quite a small printer, but I immediately experienced toxic effects from the fumes when I replaced it with the bigger Elegoo Saturn 2. Don't take chances with your health or the health of anyone else who may be exposed to the fumes. Don't rely on a carbon filter; I've not seen any evidence yet that a carbon filter - even a big proper one - will remove VOC's.
A mask is fine, but the bigger problem with 3D resin printing is that if the printer is inside the home, the heavier-than-air VOC fumes will slowly build up over the course of a few hours and you may begin to experience toxic effects. I certainly do. My solution was to move my printer outside into a shed away from the house (still a WIP - I'll have to slap together a DIY insulated and heated cupboard if I want to run it during the Winter months) but for those people who have no option but to print inside the home, grow-tents are recommended by some people, and I found out about a pretty cool device called a *hydroxyl generator* which neutralizes VOC's in an enclosed space. They're not cheap though.
@@herculeholmes504 Any tips for extraction gear? I’m considering options for an area where I might set up a 3d printer and my wife may be doing jewelry making, which has its own fume concerns.
Carbon filters absolutely remove VOCs. Made With Layers even designed a cusyom sensor box and showed graphs of the PM and VOC counts before and after installing HEPA & carbon filters. (HEPA filters are not chemically reactive,only the carbon would have been doing anything to refuce VOCs)
This is simply a well known chemical fact. You can even find a video by The Modern Rogue where they use activated carbon to make gas masks and test them with a high strength capscasin gas.
With that said, some filters, notably the Nevermore Stealthmax, are going even further beyond and experimenting woth using UV light and metal meshes to break down VOCs even without carbon, so it's not the only option.
I bought my first resin printer this past winter, and once I got over the cold basement issues with a heating pad, it's been great. I have both the Anycubic Mono 4K and the Wash and Cure station and they've both been great. I just installed the flexible buildplate and the prints come out great. I love it for things that I need in detail and the quality is just astonishing. I still use my Ender 3 a ton more but the Mono 4K is an absolutely great printer
I really appreciate your videos, to answer the question will I be getting involved with resin 3d printing, I will not at least till it becomes less toxic. I’ll stick with the FDM printing. Thanks again for the video
Amazing video! I consider that it is a very objective analysis, and you make your opinions very clear as personal. By the way, excellent format for "my experience", incredibly funny.
My wife prints with resin. She loves it. But she worked with UV resin before 3d printing was a thing. Also it's not just for miniatures, it's more dimensionally accurate than fdm due to the smaller layer lines, so I feel you will find it fits in with what you typically print nicely.
I thought it's good for functional parts too. I do not have a resin printer yet but, from what I can see, you can buy special resin from places like Siraya Tech that has exceptional strength. Is it true that you can make things as strong (if not stronger) than with FDM printers? I say stronger because you don't have weak layer adhesion on the Z axis. So, other than the mess and noxious fumes, I see no downside to resin printing except for smaller build volumes.
@@ChristmasEve777 A lot of the material is not as strong as a lot of fdm materials, but the adhesion between layers is a lot better (I dont want to say all because there are certainly some very strong resins). The trick with FDM is to print in an orientation so that the force wont stress the adhesion between layers. Really the advantage of resin is greater dimensional accuracy. At work we mainly use pcabs on fdm printers but whenever we need tight tolerances on a snap or reduced friction on a moving part, or two forces in different directions where one will always split the layers we use the SLA printer. A downside of resin printing is the print time due to the smaller layer height. A small, not very complex part I started this afternoon had a print time of 22hrs. The same model might be 3 or 4 hours in fdm. 6hrs max.
@@richpaul6806 you gotta get the newer resin printers, I can make 6 faceplates at work in 22minutes, where it would take me 3-4hours on FDM. The new nFEP films are much faster!
I've got both, and there's a ton of stuff to learn and work with the resin printers. Just like FDM, each resin is really unique in exposure times, light off times, etc. I will say this - get better resins. The higher quality resins do not have the strong odors that the cheaper ones do. I'm partial to the Elegoo ABS Like resins.. low odor, very strong, and easy to print with. good luck!
Def steering clear of resin printing for now. Getting into FDM printing and it is all I ever dreamed of. Appreciate your work Jonathan, you have some great videos.
Keep playing with resin, I'm happy to watch your excellent vids and learn from your experience, Oh and i can learn a lot whilst avoiding exposure to the fumes :)
This video format is excellent for this type of video, great job!
I’m considering getting a resin printer, but the fume extraction, high toxicity, and space and cleanliness required are sort of a problem, I think I’d want a large enclosed desk with a massive silicone desk surface, and walls a roof and a door, as well as fume extraction and/or a really good air scrubber, there’s not enough space for that now unfortunately
As someone interested in resin printing, I‘d love to hear more about it!
you just gained a shit load of respect from me. Thank you for being up front and transparent about the bias in the video. Personally. I dont think it takes away from what is clearly displayed, personally. However, your clarity speaks volumes on your character and how you view your work. Definitely subscribed and excited to see more vid's. Thanks again.
I like this video, your first steps as a newbie in resin printing. Well done.
And yes, please make more videos about resin printing. From time to time.
And like you said, safety first!
You got it, boss! Another one on the way
Stay away from IPA unless you like to waste money. You can get methyl hydrate or methylated spirits for far less money and they arguably work better. Resin is pretty easy once you have your workflow figured out. I rarely clean anything when I'm printing. Put the gloves on, take the build plate off and into the washing machine, wash, take out and pop off the plate (magnetic flex plates work wonders), wipe the buildplate off with a small piece of paper towel and put it back into the machine, top up the resin in the vat, start the next print. It's handy to soak your print in hot tap water after it's cleaned to easily remove the supports. Once it's dry, cure it.
Oh snap I’ll look into that. Sad that I just bought more IPA
I have also recently got my hands on a SLA printer. I got mine from Elegoo and the quality is exceptional with some caviats. I totally agree with you that it is a mess, even other RUclipsrs are warning about this. If you are careful enough and clean any spillage after each print, it is fine and not that toxic. I am even thinking to get an air purifier for the space that I am using the printer.
Other tips I can share:
- Get silicon covers for the surfaces infront and around the printer. They will save your workbench from the resin and you can easily toss them outside on the sun for a few hours to clean them more easily.
- Get paper towels. I use them on top of the silicon covers when I am moving the prints out of the bed and also cleaning any remaining resin from the tank after transfering the resin back to the bottle and run the clean tank exposure.
- Get plastic cups that can contain around 300-500ml of liquid. I use those for when I need to transfre the excess resin from the tank to the bottle or clean the washing station.
- Try washable resin. I have ordered a few bottles to test it out. They advertise it as nearly odourless, safer and easy to wash with tap water. By the way, depending on what resin you use and how big the objects are the IPA can be used for up to 30 prints.
Thanks for the tips! Will do
Good video. I really liked that you showed the learning as you went. I have been really pleased with the water washable resin.... saves a TON of money on the FDM, seems to have less fumes (I still use an air filter) and less chemicals in the washing / post process. I have still yet to really find a good post clean up formula for wash and cure times... so I just experiment and do my best... would love if you do a video about that some time... otherwise I am just doing the "yeah that sounds like a good number" like you did.
Good call, I'll get some of that Resin
Very interesting look at it. Have been on the fence for awhile now on getting into the resin scene but after that video I think im going to take the plunged.
Great vid!
use water washable resin, no smell, non toxic and all you need is water.
I'm trying to find a gift for my teenage D&D gamer kids and thought this would be fun. I appreciate your well rounded review! I wasn't thinking about the toxic fumes and materials for where they'd do this. You've given me a lot to consider and if the Pros outweigh the Cons. Thank you!
if you're still looking for a good gift, take a look at the Bambu A1 Mini. It's a small FDM printer, so no toxic fumes or materials, and it's packed full of sensors that make it work right out of the box with next to no manual calibration. It's basically an appliance, one that even small children could learn to use. You can also get a 0.2mm nozzle for it that can print incredibly detailed miniatures. it's what I use for my D&D campaigns.
I have both types of printers and have to say you made resin printing look sooo much harder than it really is. Keep up the videos.
Yeah I was a total newb. I’m getting better though. But I busted the fep lol
The fact that he made it look so much harder sticks to the fact of authenticity for his part
A couple notes on PPE: prolonged exposure to the fumes can cause eventual health issues, but eye contact will cause very immediate issues (very possibly leading to spills and other accidents that you will be unable to deal with promptly) and possible permanent damage to your vision. Eye protection should be your very highest priority. Also, your greatest exposure to fumes and splash hazard is when you're removing and cleaning the part, not when you're pouring resin into the printer.
Safety tip: Loose the beard so that no air/fumes can come past the rubber of the mask, a beard don't make the mask work perfekt.
And I am thinking about resin to treat some parts and models to make them 100% water tight, and to find out if they get stronger.
You lost me at lose the beard.
@@thenextlayer kind of mask that you where waring is a good mask if you don't have any beard, by having beard it is not tight around the mouth.
So either a full face mask or no beard
love your content! and I think it would be awesome to see more about resin printing!
Really cool video, very informative to first users. Thank you for creating! And yeah I print 3D a lot, mostly layered since of testing before I can finish products in a Resin. So yes of course I would like you to create more 3D printing content. Will be fun, there isn't endless things to teach about it maybe. But related subjects and updates would be cool to get.
Fantastic video! Love ur content man. I love fdm but this was still a super fun and informative video :)
I'm really bad with messy things and I definitely don't want to be handling toxic stuff . . . so not for me. I'm also the kind of person who is into more functional prints and am not too concerned about layer lines and such, so I'll be sticking with FDM personally. Although a word about reliability: Most of the unreliability really stems from badly built printers. Something like the Ender 3 is very cheap, but it's also terribly built, and I ended up replacing a bunch of parts to make it reliable. If I were to buy another printer, I'd bite the bullet and buy a Prusa. They're known to be great workhorses and they're open source so I can make it my own.
I went the opposite direction. I have been resin printing for years and just got my first fdm printer (creality k1c) I'm having a lot of fun printing the things that either wouldn't fit in my Saturn S or just wouldn't work with resin very well due to its material properties. I still use resin for a lot of things. If you need something detailed it just can't be beat.
Quick tip for you, if you put more IPA in your wash station it doesn't smash your prints about, and let your print dry before post curing. Hope you keep it up mate, great video
I hear that Carima’s CMYK resin is a way better resin than the current toxic resin. Would be cool if you could do a video on if it's safer.
It's always interesting to see how a newcomer experiences first time resin printing. What always gets me on RUclips is how the noxious vapors problem is presented. Depending of the brand, yes, liquid resin can stink. But honestly, the respiratory risk you may encounter with UV resin is WHEN IT'S PRINTING, not just in its uncured or cured state. So it's a good thing the printing chamber is sealed during printing and now printers are sold with active carbon filters inside just for that. The VOC cartridge mask is unnecessary just to fill up the vat. Nitrile gloves (latex won't do) on the other hand are always always mandatory.
BUT there's one moment when putting that mask is necessary: it's when you start handling liters of Isopropyl alcohol to clean the parts. That volume of alcohol can be fairly detrimental to your health, give nausea, headaches and implies a very well ventilated area. Note, Jonathan is not using his mask at that moment when it would be most useful. The solvent handling part of the post processing to me is the main hassle of UV resin printing. IPA is costly, a respiratory hazard, is a pain to recycle or dispose of when it becomes mixed with resin as a cleaning solution but offers the best cleaning possible, industrial degreasers or methylated spirits being close seconds. And none of them are risk free to handle or easy to recycle.
To reduce cost, I'm using ethanol (aka methylated spirits) for the 1st cleaning bath and IPA for the finish one. The print gets enclosed in a sealed thin plastic tub with the iPA and floated in water for 6mn max in an ultrasonic cleaner with the heat off and always supervised. That's the same way mechanical parts can be cleaned with flammable solvents in a ultrasonic cleaner btw (don't leave them for long, always be present, always put them in a sealed container immersed in water). Parts always come out squeaky clean with crisp details. Remember, you can get a print from a high definition printer but if there's still residue on it because it wasn't cleaned enough, it's going to mar the details of the finished product.
To correct this statement, FAR more VoCs are release during the washing & curing process, than during the actual printing. (Oddly enough since we use IPA and it evaporates at room temperature.)
@@ccatlett1984 Agreed. I should have developed the point i was making further :)
Great video. I still remember myfirst experience with resin printers. I started with the anycubic photon mono when it was first released, a whopping 2K machine. I now have 3 resin printers including the new 12K phrozen. I have 4 FDM printers and I honestly dont have a preferred way to print. It all depends on what I want to accomplish in the end. Resin has way more clean up than FDM but as you said it takes more time to tweak the prints to get good prints. Definitely now with the new Bambulabs that has drastically changed. Education is the key to resin printing. There are definitely concerns but you just educate yourself. I dont think a full respirator is necessary. I find the IPA is far more of an issue breathing in than the resin. I will never handle resin bare handed but havent found the need for a full respirator, I do wear a mask at all times, at least an N95 rated mask not just a dust mask that they send with the printers. Definitely get the small filters as they help immensely with the smell, I use 2 in my Phrozen printer which is now my go to resin printer. The new resins coming out don't smell as bad either and you can get water washable one as well. The wash and cure systems are a must. On you anycubic cure station you can bend the top portion of the UV bar after you remove the vat to increase the efficacy of the cure.
Love the video and your style!
Oh and Jonathan dont let your mom do resin printing!
😅
eSun is terribly smelly resin. Anycubic is fine and ya a respirator is totally overkill.
I recently bought the Creality Halot One and I love it. I use Anycubic ABS-Like Resin+ (it offers the right properties for my needs) and it STINKS. Did one print in the house then moved it out to the garage. I didn't immediately by the wash and cure machine, but after a month for the Anycubic one. That makes all the difference. My workflow is not too messy, but it's all in the garage, requires mask and a lot of disposable gloves. There results are perfect, though, and it's easier than FDM to get good prints.
I buy the 7mil gloves. They're more expensive, but you can re-use them 10 times or more. They're easy to take off if you clean them with a little alcohol first. A silicone spatula works well for wiping the top of the plate before taking it out, less resin waste also, and keeps the wash cleaner if you stick everything in there. Flex plates make printing, washing, and model removal easier. I wash my functional parts on the plate, then just pop them off.
Eye protection is good also. Splashes and shooting support pieces can really suck. Making a handle for the top of the wash and cure is a must. It really helps keep things clean. I have a hinged cover for the printer, but you might want a handle for that, also. Make note, there is a large difference in smell between different resins. I've had "low odor" resins that smelled worse than regular ones.
I like the video. Went through the same issues with the test print provided by manufacturer . But when I went to my other prints, exposure settings,and supports....I spent the last year hitting my head against a wall. Lol. I even let it sit for a few months and going back to it. But thankfully there are lots of support from the community.
Heheh, it’s always fun watching noobs do resin 3D printing for the first time, having already gone through the hoops myself, now every print comes out nearly every time. Let me offer a couple of useful tips for anycubic resin printing. Before starting that very first print, what everyone must do (but they don’t tell you in the manual) 1) apply a release agent to the inside of the resin vat fep. This is the reason for your first 2 print failures and more failures will occur if you don’t regularly apply release agent to the fep, I do this every time after each print, it’s just a part of clean up process. 2) don’t fill the vat to the max level, just use an amount appropriate to your part to make cleanup easier. 3) anycubic photon slicer requires all models to be sliced in anycubic’s photon slicer mine uses a .pwma file format but they maybe different for your specific printer. If you want to use chitubox or lychee which I do absolutely recommend for generating supports, you’ll want to save the model with the supports as an .stl file and then import it into photon slicer for final slicing, if you slice with any other slicer , your prints will fail (or never even begin) at least this is how it was when I got started a year ago and I haven’t bothered to check if that’s been fixed) but if you run into any problems with that just remember to try and slice only with anycubic’s proprietary slicing software and you will be good to go. And finally 4) the best advice I can give with supports is rotate your models so that they are not parallel to any of the 3 axis and orientate your model with the side you want to be the cleanest opposite the build plate clear of supports. Lastly, there are some tips worth mentioning for cleanup, but this is getting a bit long, go ahead and let me know if you want those as well! Thanks for the video bro! Good luck!
Oh and remember to calibrate your resin exposure settings! These will be different for each resin has different exposure profiles, dial in the manufacturers suggested settings with calibration tests to get the ideals you’re comfortable with
I use resin for TT games and selling. And there is a solution. An air tight grow tent for $40 plus an exhaust fan and some hose leading out a window can fully ventilate your tent of all toxic fumes. Cap the exhaust hose when you’re done for the day so nothing leaks out over night and you’re 100% resin free and always working in a small chemical containment area for less than $100.
Great video, was good to see your final thoughts on resin printing.
i appreciate the curing process being aethetically pleasing building the anticipation for completion of your project ;)
Thanks for sharing your experience, this helped lot!!
When you're given a product to review, it's like testing a Christmas gift. I especially like that you haven't done resin yet. Me either, always seemed like a huge mess. You're gonna help me with the decision!
well i do say initially cleaning is a pain but with some vids and tips on how to do it its less painful there are some vids that show how to use a metal tray or a silicon mat with a rim to allow for no spillage and you just isolate the resin bottle on there with the build plate and vat use paper towels and microfiber cloths cut into bits to clean of course it takes time and practice but once your use to it it just becomes something your normally do for ventilation there are fume boxes kinda like tents with a ventilation hose attached to it u can either use a charcoal foam filter block inside the hose or directly connect it outside if thos are not a option there are air purifiers that are usb rechargeable and fit beside your vat to purify the fumes of the resin
I have the same printer. It sits quietly in my shed where the fumes can't hurt my family. The only thing I use it for is for prints that need to be heat resistant.
This video was super useful for us all resin-curious filament-printers.
I absolutely love that you showed that your first print failed completely. Realistically, even when following instructions (the original, multiple websites and youtube videos) the first 1-3 prints will always fail. In my case, the first 8 prints failed until i realised that the build plate of my Elegoo Mars Pro was messed up from factory. I spend 1.5 hours of sanding with 600 grit on a surface plate, and only THEN Prints actually worked. Not wanting to spend even more money on the Wash and Cure station, i tried water washable resin and was disappointed every time. In addition to that, im probably allergic to this type of resin as i get really horrible headaches from it in less than 10 minutes. Have only used the printer maybe 2-3 times since then and will probably scrap it for the linear rail to put on my Ender 3 lol.
For anyone reading this: Always remember that Resin is VERY TOXIC. If you have FDM printers, stay with those. In my experiences, resin printers are only good Figurines or other miniatures and nothing else.
Just so you know, saw a different youtuber testing those air purifier thingies and apparently they get rid of the smell but are mostly inefficient when it comes to reducing the evil chemical particles in the air.
I don't think I'll be getting into resin printing any time soon due to the size limitations, but at some point probably; nice video showing your first experience with it, as well as things to look out for for if and or when that day ever does come SeemsGood
I have to make this clear i cannot stress this enough! I am 3 or 4 months into resin printing and got it down to a fine art understanding all the slicer settings etc but this what people keep saying abiut it being a messy job its just how messy you the user wants to make it! I have 3 printers and work on 2 of them cheap plastic dinner service trays, with paper towl down and your plastic scrapers and your metal one to hand but the plastic razors i use the most, i don't use that metal scrapper if don't need to! Point is i have this small tray area thats perfect for laying down your plate removing even 1.4 scale statues i do with little to no mess! The build plate you scrape that clean with your plastic scraper whe first remove it top first youll get the resin to sit in a pool on top of the scraper and just pour it back in the vat! Its simple just work at being cleaner its not a messey job atoll!
Thank you. You have re-affirmed my conclusion about branching into resin.
I picked up my Bambu X1C just today, so that will keep me off the streets for a while. Much as I would like the option of resin printing for fine mechanical parts, my workspace is a 3m x 3m carpeted room in the middle of the house, so it is absolutely out of the question. So once my shiny new FFF printer is bedded in I'll look at getting a 0.2mm nozzle for when I want to make a tiny/prices part.
for me, procedure to ensure reliable performance is my preferred system. FDM is like cooking with out knowing the other persons recipe you almost have to be a chef your self to diagnose problems. (mechanical issues) where as resin printers i see more as cooking with Gordon Ramsey yelling at your back. sure it's stressful but as long as you listen and follow procedure you'll get a far better result than the alternative.
I just got into resin printing and bought the exact models of printer and wash/cure station you have there a couple of weeks before finding your channel, although sadly the cure station suffered with a warped turntable so it's really just a wash station right now 😂. Been having loads of fun with it although I did have a much harder job removing the test cube from the print bed than you did so possibly doing something wrong, 3 prints in with (touch wood) no failures so far, expecting to have many now I have said that. Will be interested to watch your other videos as I am fairly new to fdm printing too
I jut had a sponsor tell me not to publish a video and forget it after showing my failures with their resin printer as part of a video for their new printer 😂
Super helpful dude. Thanks!
Thx... this video was an eye opener... I already thought about getting a resin printer... but the whole chemical handling and the small build plate, and the need of a washer / curer is a no - go to me. I see why others are using it, but I simply don't need it.
Thx for this video.
Tip: water-washable resin. It isn't less messy, but it saves on IPA ;-) And the transparent Elegoo ones are so nice and make curing thicker parts so much easier (transparent, dooh).
also cracks a lot faster in a lot of situations
@@br0k3nilluzion Also, not any "safer" or "better for the environment". And then you have to find a way to handle the contaminated water (not safe to dump down the drain, it's just as toxic.)
@@ccatlett1984 Just put the dirty water container outside in the sun and the resin will cure, then you can throw the cured resin in the trash.
I just ordered a $99 resin printer because it's cheap and I've had less than satisfactory results printing some very small parts. But yeah, right now I'd diving deep into the safety aspects. Rather than trying to ventilate my shop I'm thinking of building a heated box so that I can do the prints outdoors.
I got an Anycubic Mono 4k for using to make things for my N scale model RR. Some things that small can not be printed on my Ender 3v2. I find the learning curve for the slicer to be very large. Especially trying a building or RR car that has straight lines.
It's just a different set of skills to learn. FDM and Resin both need supports, for example, but there are different considerations in adding supports for each. But the products you make with each couldn't be further apart. Resin is going to be a lot more appealing at entry level pricepoints, I think, because while it might make smaller things, they're nice-looking, rivaling store-bought products in many ways. FDM's advantages shine when it comes to larger models and multi-colored prints, but those models are a lot more expensive, and even then the products they make are very obviously 3D printed.
I think your confusion on the price comes from a misnomer common in the community. What you have is a DLP printer, not an SLA one. The technologies are somewhar similar but the cost and need for replacement parts is very different.
just the need for a gas mask and gloves makes it a no no for me.
i like not having to worry about my health to print something.
This confirms my suspicions. I'm not ready lol. One day I think I'll dive into resin printing, but not any time soon.
My first experience with resin printers was about 11-12 years ago when I picked up a desktop 3D Systems resin printer system for our ME students and faculty to explore. What a complete waste of $15K back then. And what surprised me the most when I started watching this vid, is how nothing has really changed in the process. Same exact thing. Lots of nasty sticky chemicals to handle, UV lights, and extremally high failure rates of prints. We had the factory techs come down many many times to help us try to get it sorted out, but in the end I just turned the entire system over to some grad students and put it in a room with large enough fume hood to put it all into for occasional use and mostly safe storage. Thank you for the brutally honest reality of what using these resin printers is all about. Well done! You actually got my gut twisted in a knot from triggering me with it! All the horror and wasted time! No thank you!
I love this video I just Excribed to you. To see more like this Risen and Filament. Videos that you come up with. Just show everyone I am looking forward to seeing On your videos.
I may want to try it out later. I have to get better with the other method first
I have been dabbling in SLA for a couple years now. Buying 99% IPA is a must and, at that purity, it can be fairly easily "cleaned" several times for reuse, saving cost. Plus, if you are smart about it, you setup a bath container that you rinse tools and such in to save IPA. I found water-washable resin cost to match that of normal resin+99%IPA on the whole, and such "ECO" resins are safer from a handleability standpoint, not a disposal standpoint. They also tend to require longer layer and post-cure times, wasting energy (and time).
Magnetic build plates for SLA printers exist and I found them to be heavenly for preserving bottom layer quality vs scraping them off a firm plate.
I also love my stainless steel filter funnel! So much better than plastic funnels and paper filters (there's your eco and savings). Get a small air filter for inside the SLA, too...helps tons with the smell and I'm *SHOCKED* Anycubic didn't include one since that's exactly who I bought mine from!
Just like with FDM, once you get familiar with everything, you start to learn more tips and tricks for an easier time working with resin.
Good call!
I almost went with resin, but in a one bedroom apartment dealing with fumes and cleanup was going to be too much work.
14:00 I don’t understand the question here. You talk about what a pain diagnosing a bad fdm print is but it took you 3 attempts to print that cube thing and it wasn’t at all clear as to what the problem was.
So the choice appears to be: deal with the “hassle” of diagnosing failed fdm prints or deal with the hassle of failed resin prints on top of working with dangerous chemicals.
And I'm definitely looking at buying A 3D resin printer.
Get the Photon Mono 12K one I reviewed in the other video. It's good. jle.vi/anycubic
one thing i got the resin printer for is actually for printing replacement gears out of ABS like and other hard materials. so you could actually look more into using it for practical printing as well :)
replacement parts for small electronics like headphones too.
5:08 ... i love it. and i am awake now!
I attempted Resin printing for 4 months and never got a single fully successful print. There was always some flaw whether it be small or a complete fail. Gave up and sold my Photon mono 4k and put the money on an X1C and a P1S to replace my Ender 3s.
I find it fascinating, but don’t see this as something I personally would buy so I live vicariously through RUclipsrs
I'm currently building a 60" model of Captain Nemo's Nautilus. The way I see it, print the hull and bulkier item with the FDM, and the more detailed parts with the resin. I'd recommend both in your shop.
FYI you have the filters installed wrong on your respirator. They should face back and forth not up and down. Also you don’t need the pre filters. Those are for particles. I vent my fumes directly outside. Enjoyed the video 👍🏻
🇨🇦/🇺🇸... Like you, I am mainly interested in utilitarian prints but that is actually why I wanted to investigate resin printing, purchasing the same model "mono 2" printer. The LAYER weaknesses inherent in FDM prints make it poor for some items that need strength and when I saw that there were some very strong (though expensive) resins available (phrozen Onyx Impact Plus 3D Printing Resin) I thought it worthwhile to get a handle on this technology. I'm finding that to be VERY safe seriously adds to the expense, however, and as I'm in a one-bedroom walk-up apartment where the ventilation is shared, I'm trying to be extra careful with opening the windows wide.
Fumes a big no no for me unless I had a shop not inside the house lol
If you don't have a wash and cure you can definitely reuse the IPA. For my first year I used Tupperware containers to clean in, just put the lid on when done and it stays until next time.
Anycubic resin printer was my first an it prints amazing..i enjoy this one a bit better then dealin with the whole different settings for filament never though be so hard to even get prints to stick to bed or diff settings jus to get a print goin then resin jus model ..put supports...clean an cure...now fui future get those dual charcoal filters from amazon thatll fit in the anycubic to help with the fumes with resin in a small area i have em an works great in my apt by a window
I have a variety of both fdm and resin printers in my shop. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages. But there is no question that resin prints deliver much higher detail and less sanding and post processing minus washing and curing. But fdm has the ability to making larger and stronger parts and is “cheaper” in respects to materials.
I’m not familiar with the resin used in this video but the resins I use have virtually no smell. It will burn your skin though so gloves are a must.
For models and some cosplay a combination of resin and fdm are pretty nice in respects to finish and detail.
Personally I’d like a bit larger resin printer but to step up to what I’d like is very pricey not that the larger resin printers I own are small but I’d like bigger…….
Great walk-through of the process 👍
I would prefer a DLP projection for the UV. It seems as a better option in the long run.
I still don't think the process is mature enough.
As you mentioned, the filtering in the chamber is a better solution in the long run.
I would prefer a resin "run out" sensor implemented from the start as well.
I love the implemented wash/cure station though, a big step in the right direction.
Great walk-through of your expirence.
On the resin run-out idea - there are a few different printers coming out this year with resin auto-fill. But I suppose you're still need to know how much is in the bottle!
@@davedavem Those are a major move in the right direction, but if they're like the one on the Jupiter (very similar to a kitty bowl refiller), I probably can't use one, and a lot of other folks can't either. The engineering mixes people use if they don't print miniatures (and even mini printers sometimes employ if they sell b/c shattering is bad for business) are too viscous for the feeder. Warming band might work, but strong & tappable resins are $50, 70, 100+ a liter depending on properties & I'd be concerned about degradation if they were stored warm in the feeder jug for long periods of time. They also separate & need to be agitated periodically.
My experience has not been great. Over the past year that I've had my Anycubic Mono X 6K, it's worked great on maybe 25% of the print attempts. I had to put mine in the basement, but still needed good ventilation, so I built a full enclosure for it (made of plywood & sealed up tight), complete with a chicken coop heating pad and extractor fan that blows out parallel to our clothes dryer via a dedicated duct. Just prior to the enclosure, I was getting a few prints to work, but as soon as I put the printer in its new cozy home, I couldn't get it to work. I tried all kinds of variations on the settings, even put in the tiny heater I was using before the enclosure (blowing right on the printer) for additional heat... even though I was maintaining 80-85F in the enclosure. I have been told that maybe the resin is bad, maybe it sat in Amazon's warehouse too long. I will try it again with new resin, likely ordered direct from a manufacturer this time, but I'm less than thrilled about wasting more resin. At this point, I'm thinking that paying friends or a service to print what I want may be the way to go if all else fails.
Post some photos (and a screengrab of the settings) on one of the printing forums, maybe someone can diagnose the problem.
@@herculeholmes504 I've tried that, but it's been a minute, so I'll have to go back in & dig around for new wisdom.
Resin printers dont scale well. larger printers are far more prone to failed prints than small ones. I started with a photon zero and that almost never failed even when i left the window open in winter and it was like -5C out.
Really appreciate this video. I have wanted a resin printer for over three years now sense I first got into FDM printing. I can't really find a reason I need one, but I love detailed figures and with so many existing of beloved characters from especially video games or just mythical things and creations, I find myself in a want vs need battle. With how much you need to go through prep wise and protection wise, I can't see a viable enough reason to by one. (And everything else you need to buy with it) I just really wish I had a friend who did resin printing so I could just pay them for the figures I wanted. I know services like that exist but the price for them seems unreasonable.
neat video. You moved me back to the early 90 with the gas mask.
About the video, I liked, all improvised and not posed
Greetings from the Galilee.
I bought an Anycubic first, which worked fine but I hated the toxic glop. Then I bought the Bambu x1c and that’s all I’ve very happily used since. However, videos like yours will eventually get me to use both. Thanks.
Yep. I’m having fun learning something new mostlub
More resin videos please ❤
i think you needed to run the R_E_R_F (included on usb) to get the exposure times for that resin - as explained in the manual ;)
Great conversation. Thanks :)
I really like the idea and abilities of SLS, but I don't like the idea of those awful chemicals. I'm hoping someone will figure out a non-toxic resin. Then I will be all over it immediately.
I have experiences with resin 3D printers, right now I own Elegoo Mars 2 pro and I agree with the mess, but you can upgrade the printer.
You can use handles to the lid, you can print with PTEG new filler for the resin bottle and make carbon filters to filter the smell.
FDM printers are easy and great but the details in Resin printers are much better and after painting the prints, you will be shock.
Safety glasses pouring that iso, good walk through. The carbon chunks get rid of smell not toxins fyi.
"I am not looking forward to emptying that vat again...." LOL! My sentiments exactly.
Personally, I don't like the process and cost of resin printing. In my 3D print work, I have little but specific use for the process.
BUT, thanks for the video. It took me back when I started to explore it.
Thanks for watching!
I agree with the conclusion of this video!!!
But it is still annoying... Maybe it's fun the first time but if you are making lots of prints... not so fun. I turned a bathroom into a print room to be lazy with cleanup and then printed thousands of parts. I didn't know about the respirator but the resin stunk so bad! After 3 days of printing I got sick and I still needed to print so many parts on an order. I decided to buy a respirator but it didn't come with the correct filters and I was getting sicker. I then spent the big bucks and got the nice filters. Which worked wonders! After that job, I didn't want to touch the printer ever again! I ended up selling them.
I do love the simplicity of the printer! I do love the detail! I do love making yellowish but mostly clear parts! But the fumes and clean up are too much for me.
Excellent video as to be expected from you. One thing you weren't able to emphasize properly though is the exceedingly high overall cost of resin printing compared to filament printing due to the consumable materials cost. It may not be an issue to some but for those with a budget, it requires consideration.
the real cost is to your health
when you get liver cancer or cirrocis from inhaling that crap
also don't depend on scam companies like 3M their organic vapor filters do nothing at all and are just safety theater
also those respirators contain lots of PFOA's and they sewt them out in the form of an oil that gets all over your skin
I stayed away from resin printing because of the toxic nature of the resin and the resulting waste ipa. By chance creality was having an Easter sales and I bought the cheapest resin printer they made the Halot One at £99 with free 1kg of resin which cost £30, so for me it was a cheap way to see if I could get into resin printing and live with the smells and toxic resin process.
After what has been a few weeks, I have found the best way to deal with resin spills is to cure it with a uv lamp, as if you use ipa you just cause more mess. I had a large air purifier already that had hepa and carbon filters which when in use keeps the smell from spreading around the house, but I still use my mask which has organic compound filters just in case. Protective glasses are also a must unless you have a full face mask like myself. This sounds like over kill but long term exposure can cause a lot of health issues, even cancer.
I love fdm printing but it has its limits when dealing with small parts, resin has been able to allow me to extend the range of items that I can print. I have just bought a creality Halot mage which is a substantial upgrade over the Halot one which has again expanded what I can produce between fdm and resin machines.
Is resin for everyone…no, fdm is the better way to experiment with 3d printing unless you already have a need such as miniatures. Even then, make sure you have a location that is safe and well ventilated and provides a stable temperature environment at over 20degC.
planning on ordering an x1c soon and was thinking of trying resin printing too at the same time. being a tech for almost 40 years make my love for tinkering fun so thats the main reason i want to get into 3d printing. but as a tech ive been exposed to chemicals and smoke , smells etc.... and i dont really want that in my home. If i can build an encloser that safe and smell proof , i will most defiantly try resin printing
Great video! I bought a Mono X and Wash and cure station 3 months ago and they’ve been sitting on my shelf in the garage unused. I just can’t get up the courage to deal with the mess.
It's fun, but yeah, big mess.
@@thenextlayer I really need to get my act together and make some things with it. I mainly bought it to make clear light pipes.
17:56 brother you need a funnel thats the filter that goes inside the funnel