I love the contrast between plastic and resin, like they aren't meant to be put against each other, but used together. I've been looking into cosplay for a couple years now, and this is definitely a huge help!
I'm finally looking at getting into 3D printing and each time I've Googled a question, your videos have been suggested. You're clear and concise with your explanations and even an absolute noob like me can understand. Thank you Frank, you've got a new subscriber 😊👍
Thank you so much! I’ve been wondering about this but you’ve convinced me I don’t need a resin printer at the moment for my cosplay. FDm is still good for me!
Props to you my friend for explaining this so perfectly and simply! It has always been a go to thing in the community to fight for one side that is either FDM or SLA, but its more like why not choose both and get the best of both worlds if you can for me. Love the work you are doing.... keep it up! Wish you all the best! :D
Great comparison, Frank!! tYou nailed it. I'l be recommending this video to amateur and veteran builders, who may not know much about resin printing and the upsides/downsides of it. Well done
I have 2 of each, fdm and resin printers. I find that if I make a helmet in parts on a resin printer, if you drop it, it will shatter like glass. With FDM it might break but you can plastic weld it back together. So I too make details with resin and make larger parts fdm. (I also made my own cure station with ultraviolet leds in a box and wash them in a large plastic container. cheaper but works). Love your videos.
A good way to reduce the cost of resin is, don't get the official wash and cure station for 200$ but get a uv lamp and uv powered rotating plate and a large jar for cleaning. I did it all for ~50$
Glad I got into it when I did. Started with the mars 3 pro to see how I felt about resin printing. 6 months later I got a Saturn 3 Ultra and just printed a full sized Ichigo Hollow mask in one print no problem and the layer lines are virtually invisible after the priming. Next year will be insane for resin printing I believe.
I love your videos. So detailed, thorough, and knowledgeable. Your videos are an inspiration to me as I lean towards taking the plunge into 3D printing. You provide a great service.
I think your Thor’s hammer example was perfect, no need to print a big box on a resin printer but also good luck getting the super fine details on an fdm, it’s definitely not a question of which is better just more of that they each have their own benefits
hey Frank hope you had a good vacation and I'm glad you're back but I kinda wanna see a beskar ingot prop the paint jobs pretty cool; either that or once again a civil warrior helmet, or a winter soldier arm. In case you haven't noticed I have a lot of ideas for videos and not enough money or subscribers to be noticed making these videos.
Hey Frank. Good overview but also highlight that resin is vastly more dangerous to work with. Look at the Safety Data Sheet which details the various hazards. I’ve seen people get this on their hands, splashes in their eye and many cases caused a severe autoimmune response and ever serious chemical burns Then there’s the post processing chemical hazards as well. My background is working and managing a research lab that does 3D printing. I’m always getting updates on precautions and abatement methods. Also, with FDM, fume mitigation, fire suppression devices and enclosures are good ideas. Please print safe, everyone
Can you elaborate a bit ? Are resin fumes always dangerous or primarily during the movement/heating process. Would an enclosed printer with inline filtration suffice for resin ?
@@mml3140 the resin is always an inhalation hazard as the Safety Sheet per manufacturer will elaborate on. Some resin printers include charcoal air filters inside of them to help mitigate the fumes. There’s many things you can do when using these chemicals - safety goggles , splash guard (apron) and gloves I don’t mean to scare you away from resin. Just understand the risks and work on addressing them.
@@WhereNerdyisCool I keep it in a zipped grow tent with an in-line filter. When I open I have a organic respirator on. But the ambient and leftover fumes still make me nervous that's why I ask.
@M ML these resins are (meth)acrylate based. You should always take precautions with the fumes. Acrylates can also be irritants, make sure you check the SDS before printing anything that will have long term skin contact.
@@chrisemerson9587 As far as contact I try to never skin contact. Even when cured I get paranoid and won't unless it's painted over. The SDS usually has fumes in a category 2.
Love the vid man. I wanted to print in 1/4 scale so I got elegoo Jupiter for the build volume. So good not to print a lot of separate parts and glue seam lines things like that
He perfectly explained how SLA printers work. I've always struggled with understanding how they work and he just explained it so perfectly. It feels good to finally understand
I completely agree with this entire video. With filament printers they are great for printing armors and props for cosplay and if someone wants something more detailed they could go with resin but there is one minor downside when using resin and that it can shrink especially in the cure phase.
I have a Saturn 2 8k but have a Neptune 3 max on order and watch your videos with regards to cosplay stuff. Resin for my small items like rings and the max for big things.
That's basically my goal. I have a filament 3d printer and my buddy took my resin one because he does model train stuff so I'll be picking up another resin one. You should have mentioned that resin printing can print more on the plate and still be done at the same speed because it's layer by layer but good vid. Resin is much more of a pain but the quality is so much better
Great video but one other thing I would’ve mentioned would’ve been how much better resin can print clear, you can basically print any sort of lens or crystal that you simply wouldn’t be able to print with an FDM printer
bro i love the work i love the passion love the detailing your giving to youngesters and to make this art possible. when i get some money opportunity i will be creating this this .one suggestion brother upload nice tumbnails ur channel ,works soo good add nice tumbnails too😋
I would love to use resin but my current housing arrangement will not allow it. Not enough space to safely secure it, but i appreciate this video. Gave me a lot to think about
One of the biggest deciding factors for me after quality would be durability. Resin prints are often very fragile compared to FDM (depending how the FDM was printed that is), but there are various resins that can improve this (flexible, tough, etc) and be even more durable, but often at a higher expense. After durability comes speed, resin is much faster than most FDM printers, and the time is linear to the height, so 10 small objects prints in the same time as 1. Bonus for resin is you can mix to average out qualities, and transparent really is perfect. For FDM, with external parts you can do multi-color/material, whereas in resin you can't really do multiple colours without multiple prints/pieces. With FDM, you can configure all the settings much easier without much worry for infill and walls. While you can do this with resin, you have to be careful that any hollow objects have a drain hole, otherwise uncured resin inside can slowly seep out (even a year or two after printing). On the bright side, repairing resin prints is sometimes easier than FDM - a UV flashlight and a little swab of resin in between and it's as if it never broke, meanwhile in FDM, you need to melt plastic, often leaving some deformities. Another downside to resin is temperature control. If it's too cold or too warm, the print will likely fail. Some printers have heated vats or people have modded them for it to try and combat this. I just don't print resin in the winter unless I have a heater in the room on 😆
Thanks for this I am looking into buying a 3D printer this year and was now sure how I wanted to go, know I know I am in no way in a position to use a resin printer.
Kind of thinking resin to start with since everyone I know has FDM so I can make stuff they cant, and vice versa and we can trade off with one another as needed. Master resin for the group, and have the FDM guys come in when I need them. Right now a top end resin printer is actually cheaper than a top end FDM printer (say X1C vs Saturn 4 Ultra or GKtwo. But with all the other stuff (curing station, cleaning station, etc) I am not sure how close they might be in intiaial upfront cost, and for sure resin will be more expensive in long term cost. The answer of what to get? I think that is really "what do you want to make?" and unfortunatly I think I am right between the two. I would love to print figures to paint, and decorations for the house, gifts for friends. But I also very much want functional printing, things to put in the garage, printing things for a car or motorcycle, etc where FDM has filiments to handle these tasks and resin does not. So I am equally thinking of getting a FDM printer to start with just because it should be a bit easier to get started with, and seeing how far I go with the hobby and then pick up a resin printer later if the hobby sticks.
For miniatures figures (like warhammer): Resin For Figures/statues up to 1/4 scale: Resin (you can use PLA for big things like the base of the figure) For figures/statues bigger than 1/4 scale: PLA (you can use resin for small details like the head or hands for a better quality)
I have a brand new Wanhao Duplicator 8, never used. I am ready to resin 3D print now, is that printer compettitive with newer resin printers or should I consider getting a new one? Thanks!
Can you please make a tutorial on your GOTG game Nova helmet? I thought you had said something about doing a video on it a little over a year ago. I'd love to see how you did it ❤
A quick tip from a resin 3d Printer user, as for resin toxicity it differs from one person to another, for me many times I touch the resin with my bare hands with no problems at all! , the only thing that really got me is the resin fumes which were really awful to my chest, so treat it with respect but do not be afraid at the same time from using it And finally, regarding the cure station, this stuff is "USELESS" and a waste of money, I made a super cheap cure station with only 2 UV flashlights inside a card box and covered by silver foil paper to increase the light bounce and I close the box with a mirror to increase the bounce even better, thank me later for this one x)) Also, Ethyl alcohol works good for me due to the high cost and the lack to find Isopropyl alcohol
Resin isn't really meant to print huge simple prints (like a helmet or a sword). It can be used to print small sub part of a prop. If I only take into account the final result: resin is too brittle, heavier and more expensive. it's also far less geometrical accurate (more warping, bending, retracting). I would keep resin printer for miniature printing or small detailed part of a prop (like the inner detailed part in your Iron Man helmet).
This is true of an all acrylate/methacrylate based resin. But hybrid resins (epoxy + acrylate) have excellent dimensional stability and can print very large parts (F150 grills) without warping. Unfortunately, hybrid resins currently only work in large frame SLA printers because the photoninitators they use are in the 355 nm range (via lasers), putting them outside the capability of LED based light engines used in small resin printers
@@chrisemerson9587 Well, we could also talk about SLS printing with powder... But I was only mentioning the options available for most people. There are many ways to circumvent to problems I talked about but that's not really easy for the general public. Which is one of the main goal of the 3d printing hobby: reach as many people as possible. But you're totally right.
I'd love to get into resin printing, but right now, I don't have the room. What I want in the print room is not just the resin printers, but a shelf with light-tight doors for resin storage, several cleaning and curing stations, as well as a portable UV flashlight that I can shine around after cleaning everything up to ensure there is no toxic resin lurking anywhere on the floor, shoes, etc. It really does compliment FDM printing. Heck, you can use SLA printing resin to paint onto FDM prints, then shove them in a curing station to smooth them. For functional prints (a bracket I use to hang something on a wall), right now, FDM is in the lead, but some newer SLA resins are getting pretty strong and give properly printed FDM stuff a run for their money.
I started out 3d printing miniatures so resin was an easy choice. It definitely has plenty of drawbacks. I go through a ton of gloves and paper towels. The resin smells kinda nasty but the IPA is actually the worse offender. Frankly built is actually using some of the best resin on the market (that I know of) I use the same stuff. I have a Saturn S. which for me and what I'm doing is plenty big but I still have to outsource any really large items to my buddy who has an FDM. They're just good at different things... and honestly a lot of ink has been spilled about the resin printing process and how much post processing there is but honestly its not that bad. Once you've been doing it for a while and you have the procedure down as well as have all of the necessary equipment it goes pretty fast. You just have to respect the goo
Way I explain it is plastic for majority of cosplay and larger items but figures or my favorite which is statues Def use a resin printer for awesome detail
Great video, I'm a HighSchool Engineering teacher and 3D printing fanatic. I've got both Resin (EPAX X1 and Sonic Mighty 4K) and a FFF (Creality Ender 5 Plus). I've lost track of the number of times I've explained this same comparison. That hundred moving parts on the FFf also make for a bigger learning/setup for getting the first good print vs Resin. Also, why wouldn't all the desiccant/ dryer equipment, filler, dry storage for filament, etc that is used with FFF not "take up space"? I always ask the Person what are you wanting to make fine detail and small to medium --> resin Medium to large lower detail FFF. Headed off to your Manfo help video!! Thanks!
Just a note about resin printers, if you put it in an unfinished basement, it might need to be heated to keep the liquid at a good temperature. I spent way too long figuring that out and ended up with a plant growing warming mat and insulated cover to keep all the heat in
Frank , could you try a FMD print and finish it with UV resin poored over and cured to smooth it , I know its a method that some have tried, is it something you've done or would try.
Chitubox has an anti aliasing setting that can be fine tuned to get rid of vertical stepping. Lychee has a surface smoothing feature as well, but slicing can take several hours to render if the file is too big, so I put all of my supports on by hand on Lychee then export to Chitubox to slice it. It’s worth experimenting, but it looks damn near flawless when you get it right. It’s basically ready for primer if you dry and cure it carefully.
Funny you say that, I'm in England currently trying to cure a massive resin Conan the Barbarian Base section outside that is to large for my Curing station. It is raining.....
Chances are that it may be the surface of the bed either not being leveled or not being clean. Have you used any adhesive to make the prints stick to the bed or is the nozzle dragging on the bed during prints?
Depending on the printer, you may be able to shorten the burn in time on the first couplebof layers to make it nt adhere as much to the platform. But shorten it too much and the build won't stick at all and you get a mess in your vat
i think if you have a HUGE resin printer, you can print it in one piece and warping won't matter as much bc it'll all warp evenly. but if you have a normal consumer resin printer, i think it'll be worse bc you'll need to print it in seperate pieces and they may warp differently.
hello i have a problem with my brim its starts to tear off after a while, the print starts fine but then the brim starts to rise at the edges and then the whole print comes off (i use ABS filament should i change something in cura)
I would love to see your opinion on Polylite CosPLA! It could save a ton of time and money on post processing with FDM prints! My buddy showed me some prints with it after he sanded for about 15 minutes and it was SMOOTH.
I don't remember what it was called, but I saw a video a couple years ago from the 3D Printing Nerd about the next level of FDM printing where the print head is able to change height while laying down layers to make smoother transitions between layers and there is less of the step effect on curved surfaces. Is this still a few years away on consumer printers?
question. Is resin any good for printing scale fish, or mock small animal busts. I don't want to pick up the wrong printer or material of amazon. Also what PRINTERS WORK WITH SKETCHFAB, if anyone in the comments knows the answer it would be cool if you responded.
Hello! So I’m tryna make a Power Ranger Chun Li helmet for a cosplay, which printer would you recommend? I tried making it from scratch using EVA foam but I wanted to give 3D printing a try!
awesome vid , i am looking to get the ender 3 s1pro 3d printer , would you recommend that printer ? if im correct it has all the new tech on it that's why i am considering it.
I love the contrast between plastic and resin, like they aren't meant to be put against each other, but used together. I've been looking into cosplay for a couple years now, and this is definitely a huge help!
I'm finally looking at getting into 3D printing and each time I've Googled a question, your videos have been suggested.
You're clear and concise with your explanations and even an absolute noob like me can understand.
Thank you Frank, you've got a new subscriber 😊👍
This video was able to finally explain to my fiancé the difference between reels and resin in a way she understood . Thank you .
Yay
Thank you so much! I’ve been wondering about this but you’ve convinced me I don’t need a resin printer at the moment for my cosplay. FDm is still good for me!
Props to you my friend for explaining this so perfectly and simply!
It has always been a go to thing in the community to fight for one side that is either FDM or SLA, but its more like why not choose both and get the best of both worlds if you can for me.
Love the work you are doing.... keep it up! Wish you all the best! :D
Great comparison, Frank!! tYou nailed it. I'l be recommending this video to amateur and veteran builders, who may not know much about resin printing and the upsides/downsides of it. Well done
I have 2 of each, fdm and resin printers. I find that if I make a helmet in parts on a resin printer, if you drop it, it will shatter like glass. With FDM it might break but you can plastic weld it back together. So I too make details with resin and make larger parts fdm. (I also made my own cure station with ultraviolet leds in a box and wash them in a large plastic container. cheaper but works). Love your videos.
Thank you so much for taking the time to show and explain the differences in these two processes
A good way to reduce the cost of resin is, don't get the official wash and cure station for 200$ but get a uv lamp and uv powered rotating plate and a large jar for cleaning. I did it all for ~50$
Thank you so much Frankly, you quiet explained the differences in a simple and a nice way.
Glad I got into it when I did. Started with the mars 3 pro to see how I felt about resin printing. 6 months later I got a Saturn 3 Ultra and just printed a full sized Ichigo Hollow mask in one print no problem and the layer lines are virtually invisible after the priming. Next year will be insane for resin printing I believe.
This is a great comparison between the two types of printers. Well said!
So both would be ideal for a truly good build
Nothing like a Saturday morning with a new Frankly Built video... 😊
Love your videos every time I have a question on 3d printing you post a video on exactly what I need
Thanks Frank, your stuff is always awesome. Thanks for breaking this all down.
first!! also amazing videos Frank love your stuff!
Sometimes I just watch the videos to support. Keep up the amazing work!
i like this video. gave me a new view of filament printing. might actually get one of those large filament printers for cosplay purposes
Thank you so much for the videos Frank they've helped me out a lot. You are great at what you do!
I love your videos. So detailed, thorough, and knowledgeable. Your videos are an inspiration to me as I lean towards taking the plunge into 3D printing. You provide a great service.
I think your Thor’s hammer example was perfect, no need to print a big box on a resin printer but also good luck getting the super fine details on an fdm, it’s definitely not a question of which is better just more of that they each have their own benefits
When will the Walsh 3d mark 85 helmet video come out
Try Scotland there’s NO SUN
As a Scottish person I concur there is no sun
Not much different down here in wales
How much of the sky is overcast with clouds in a daily basis?
@@seekertosecrets you can see the moon sometimes
Really ?!?! I guess that's good for yall gingers. Hahaha( no offense)
❤️Love to watch you and get to know about More things like this is amazing... love from India 🇮🇳
hey Frank hope you had a good vacation and I'm glad you're back but I kinda wanna see a beskar ingot prop the paint jobs pretty cool; either that or once again a civil warrior helmet, or a winter soldier arm. In case you haven't noticed I have a lot of ideas for videos and not enough money or subscribers to be noticed making these videos.
Exactly ! Use resin where you need it !
I loved the whole video but you knocked the cost comparison analysis portion out of the park! It was clear and concise!
BEST video ever about Resin vs Filament 3d printers.
👁️👁️👃👁️👁️🙏
Thank you so much, subbed. 👍
Hey Frank. Good overview but also highlight that resin is vastly more dangerous to work with. Look at the Safety Data Sheet which details the various hazards. I’ve seen people get this on their hands, splashes in their eye and many cases caused a severe autoimmune response and ever serious chemical burns Then there’s the post processing chemical hazards as well. My background is working and managing a research lab that does 3D printing. I’m always getting updates on precautions and abatement methods. Also, with FDM, fume mitigation, fire suppression devices and enclosures are good ideas. Please print safe, everyone
Can you elaborate a bit ? Are resin fumes always dangerous or primarily during the movement/heating process. Would an enclosed printer with inline filtration suffice for resin ?
@@mml3140 the resin is always an inhalation hazard as the Safety Sheet per manufacturer will elaborate on. Some resin printers include charcoal air filters inside of them to help mitigate the fumes. There’s many things you can do when using these chemicals - safety goggles , splash guard (apron) and gloves I don’t mean to scare you away from resin. Just understand the risks and work on addressing them.
@@WhereNerdyisCool I keep it in a zipped grow tent with an in-line filter. When I open I have a organic respirator on. But the ambient and leftover fumes still make me nervous that's why I ask.
@M ML these resins are (meth)acrylate based. You should always take precautions with the fumes. Acrylates can also be irritants, make sure you check the SDS before printing anything that will have long term skin contact.
@@chrisemerson9587 As far as contact I try to never skin contact. Even when cured I get paranoid and won't unless it's painted over. The SDS usually has fumes in a category 2.
Love the vid man. I wanted to print in 1/4 scale so I got elegoo Jupiter for the build volume. So good not to print a lot of separate parts and glue seam lines things like that
He perfectly explained how SLA printers work. I've always struggled with understanding how they work and he just explained it so perfectly. It feels good to finally understand
11:05 - 11:06 - This is awesome - noted. :D. Good video. thank you.
Hey man I’ve been sub to you for about 2 years and today is my birthday thanks you
I completely agree with this entire video.
With filament printers they are great for printing armors and props for cosplay and if someone wants something more detailed they could go with resin but there is one minor downside when using resin and that it can shrink especially in the cure phase.
I have a Saturn 2 8k but have a Neptune 3 max on order and watch your videos with regards to cosplay stuff. Resin for my small items like rings and the max for big things.
That's basically my goal. I have a filament 3d printer and my buddy took my resin one because he does model train stuff so I'll be picking up another resin one. You should have mentioned that resin printing can print more on the plate and still be done at the same speed because it's layer by layer but good vid. Resin is much more of a pain but the quality is so much better
Perfect explanation 👌 awesome tips as usual 🙂 can't wait to see more awesome builds with this combination of skill
Could you either make a video or just tell me which are the best resin printer, I've been looking to get into it and you always give the best advice.
Great video but one other thing I would’ve mentioned would’ve been how much better resin can print clear, you can basically print any sort of lens or crystal that you simply wouldn’t be able to print with an FDM printer
Tip: print yourself an fdm or resin platform pillar for your wash and cure. To raise the platform. That way the bottom gets easier exposed too :)
Thank you this is awesome! Your explanations are amazing and so informative. Ty!!
Picked up a resin printer the other week to do that make the small detail bits for my bigger prints, it does smell bad resin does haha
bro i love the work i love the passion love the detailing your giving to youngesters and to make this art possible. when i get some money opportunity i will be creating this this .one suggestion brother upload nice tumbnails ur channel ,works soo good add nice tumbnails too😋
amazing , had no idea how all this was done
I would love to use resin but my current housing arrangement will not allow it. Not enough space to safely secure it, but i appreciate this video. Gave me a lot to think about
Please tell me you are making the bottom lip for that resin mk85
transparent prints are my #1 reason for resin
One of the biggest deciding factors for me after quality would be durability. Resin prints are often very fragile compared to FDM (depending how the FDM was printed that is), but there are various resins that can improve this (flexible, tough, etc) and be even more durable, but often at a higher expense. After durability comes speed, resin is much faster than most FDM printers, and the time is linear to the height, so 10 small objects prints in the same time as 1.
Bonus for resin is you can mix to average out qualities, and transparent really is perfect. For FDM, with external parts you can do multi-color/material, whereas in resin you can't really do multiple colours without multiple prints/pieces.
With FDM, you can configure all the settings much easier without much worry for infill and walls. While you can do this with resin, you have to be careful that any hollow objects have a drain hole, otherwise uncured resin inside can slowly seep out (even a year or two after printing). On the bright side, repairing resin prints is sometimes easier than FDM - a UV flashlight and a little swab of resin in between and it's as if it never broke, meanwhile in FDM, you need to melt plastic, often leaving some deformities.
Another downside to resin is temperature control. If it's too cold or too warm, the print will likely fail. Some printers have heated vats or people have modded them for it to try and combat this. I just don't print resin in the winter unless I have a heater in the room on 😆
Does the resin helmet have a smell when you wear it
can u please create a video about Deathstrokes helmet?
Im gonna call it before hand, because as with every video like this... ever. The answer is depends.
Muchiro katana too!! What is this!!! ❤😂
I am glad you finally busted the resin cherry.
Perfect video exaclly what i was searching for - thank you
Thanks for this I am looking into buying a 3D printer this year and was now sure how I wanted to go, know I know I am in no way in a position to use a resin printer.
I know those resin time lapse videos 😂😂😂 shout out to uncle jesse
Big thanks❤
Kind of thinking resin to start with since everyone I know has FDM so I can make stuff they cant, and vice versa and we can trade off with one another as needed.
Master resin for the group, and have the FDM guys come in when I need them.
Right now a top end resin printer is actually cheaper than a top end FDM printer (say X1C vs Saturn 4 Ultra or GKtwo. But with all the other stuff (curing station, cleaning station, etc) I am not sure how close they might be in intiaial upfront cost, and for sure resin will be more expensive in long term cost.
The answer of what to get? I think that is really "what do you want to make?" and unfortunatly I think I am right between the two.
I would love to print figures to paint, and decorations for the house, gifts for friends.
But I also very much want functional printing, things to put in the garage, printing things for a car or motorcycle, etc where FDM has filiments to handle these tasks and resin does not.
So I am equally thinking of getting a FDM printer to start with just because it should be a bit easier to get started with, and seeing how far I go with the hobby and then pick up a resin printer later if the hobby sticks.
Thanks for explanation, apprechiated.
For miniatures figures (like warhammer): Resin
For Figures/statues up to 1/4 scale: Resin (you can use PLA for big things like the base of the figure)
For figures/statues bigger than 1/4 scale: PLA (you can use resin for small details like the head or hands for a better quality)
I have a brand new Wanhao Duplicator 8, never used. I am ready to resin 3D print now, is that printer compettitive with newer resin printers or should I consider getting a new one? Thanks!
By the way your cosplay is amazing.
Awesome this was a question I was having
What's the best glue you use for your 3d prints?
Mr Frank have you 3D printed a Tulak Hord helmet
For a power ranger helmet plastic would be the way to go right? I’m a novice with 3D printing and this video has been really helpful!
Can you please make a tutorial on your GOTG game Nova helmet? I thought you had said something about doing a video on it a little over a year ago. I'd love to see how you did it ❤
A quick tip from a resin 3d Printer user, as for resin toxicity it differs from one person to another, for me many times I touch the resin with my bare hands with no problems at all! , the only thing that really got me is the resin fumes which were really awful to my chest, so treat it with respect but do not be afraid at the same time from using it
And finally, regarding the cure station, this stuff is "USELESS" and a waste of money, I made a super cheap cure station with only 2 UV flashlights inside a card box and covered by silver foil paper to increase the light bounce and I close the box with a mirror to increase the bounce even better, thank me later for this one x))
Also, Ethyl alcohol works good for me due to the high cost and the lack to find Isopropyl alcohol
Creating a workflow for washing and curing can be a slight pain as well, instead of when it's done on fdm breaking off supports.
Resin isn't really meant to print huge simple prints (like a helmet or a sword). It can be used to print small sub part of a prop.
If I only take into account the final result: resin is too brittle, heavier and more expensive. it's also far less geometrical accurate (more warping, bending, retracting).
I would keep resin printer for miniature printing or small detailed part of a prop (like the inner detailed part in your Iron Man helmet).
I can see that.
This is true of an all acrylate/methacrylate based resin. But hybrid resins (epoxy + acrylate) have excellent dimensional stability and can print very large parts (F150 grills) without warping. Unfortunately, hybrid resins currently only work in large frame SLA printers because the photoninitators they use are in the 355 nm range (via lasers), putting them outside the capability of LED based light engines used in small resin printers
@@chrisemerson9587 Well, we could also talk about SLS printing with powder... But I was only mentioning the options available for most people.
There are many ways to circumvent to problems I talked about but that's not really easy for the general public. Which is one of the main goal of the 3d printing hobby: reach as many people as possible.
But you're totally right.
@@chrisemerson9587 ya but you start getting into some really toxic resin then.
I'd love to get into resin printing, but right now, I don't have the room. What I want in the print room is not just the resin printers, but a shelf with light-tight doors for resin storage, several cleaning and curing stations, as well as a portable UV flashlight that I can shine around after cleaning everything up to ensure there is no toxic resin lurking anywhere on the floor, shoes, etc.
It really does compliment FDM printing. Heck, you can use SLA printing resin to paint onto FDM prints, then shove them in a curing station to smooth them.
For functional prints (a bracket I use to hang something on a wall), right now, FDM is in the lead, but some newer SLA resins are getting pretty strong and give properly printed FDM stuff a run for their money.
What about what is stronger and less likely to crack
I started out 3d printing miniatures so resin was an easy choice. It definitely has plenty of drawbacks. I go through a ton of gloves and paper towels. The resin smells kinda nasty but the IPA is actually the worse offender. Frankly built is actually using some of the best resin on the market (that I know of) I use the same stuff. I have a Saturn S. which for me and what I'm doing is plenty big but I still have to outsource any really large items to my buddy who has an FDM. They're just good at different things... and honestly a lot of ink has been spilled about the resin printing process and how much post processing there is but honestly its not that bad. Once you've been doing it for a while and you have the procedure down as well as have all of the necessary equipment it goes pretty fast. You just have to respect the goo
Do you still use gyroid infill for your helmets? For FDM that is.
Some yeah
Bro your the best you are so inspiring
Way I explain it is plastic for majority of cosplay and larger items but figures or my favorite which is statues Def use a resin printer for awesome detail
Great video, I'm a HighSchool Engineering teacher and 3D printing fanatic. I've got both Resin (EPAX X1 and Sonic Mighty 4K) and a FFF (Creality Ender 5 Plus). I've lost track of the number of times I've explained this same comparison. That hundred moving parts on the FFf also make for a bigger learning/setup for getting the first good print vs Resin. Also, why wouldn't all the desiccant/ dryer equipment, filler, dry storage for filament, etc that is used with FFF not "take up space"?
I always ask the Person what are you wanting to make fine detail and small to medium --> resin Medium to large lower detail FFF. Headed off to your Manfo help video!! Thanks!
2:23 it's absolutely grey, wet and miserable here as I'm watching this vid 🤣
I live in Englind and its frezing cold
ur adorable and also informative, thanks for this!
Just a note about resin printers, if you put it in an unfinished basement, it might need to be heated to keep the liquid at a good temperature. I spent way too long figuring that out and ended up with a plant growing warming mat and insulated cover to keep all the heat in
Frank , could you try a FMD print and finish it with UV resin poored over and cured to smooth it , I know its a method that some have tried, is it something you've done or would try.
Chitubox has an anti aliasing setting that can be fine tuned to get rid of vertical stepping. Lychee has a surface smoothing feature as well, but slicing can take several hours to render if the file is too big, so I put all of my supports on by hand on Lychee then export to Chitubox to slice it.
It’s worth experimenting, but it looks damn near flawless when you get it right. It’s basically ready for primer if you dry and cure it carefully.
Hey i saw you mentioned chitubox my version has been turning every stl file into a mildly squashed version is that what vertical stepping is?
Funny you say that, I'm in England currently trying to cure a massive resin Conan the Barbarian Base section outside that is to large for my Curing station. It is raining.....
Awesome video! I was wondering what the difference is between the two in terms of durability of the final product?
Hey frank my 3-D printer prints keep on sticking oof the bed. And for some reason it's always the back side. What do I do
Chances are that it may be the surface of the bed either not being leveled or not being clean. Have you used any adhesive to make the prints stick to the bed or is the nozzle dragging on the bed during prints?
I did everything I cleaned the bed I leveled the bed I went in side up and before u say what print is it it's a megadragon from Toymakr3d
Depending on the printer, you may be able to shorten the burn in time on the first couplebof layers to make it nt adhere as much to the platform. But shorten it too much and the build won't stick at all and you get a mess in your vat
Would you recommend plastic for like statues small statues like figures ?
Frank love the video! I just remembered you said you were making a tutorial on the Walsh helmet? Any update? No rush or anything just wondering
i think if you have a HUGE resin printer, you can print it in one piece and warping won't matter as much bc it'll all warp evenly. but if you have a normal consumer resin printer, i think it'll be worse bc you'll need to print it in seperate pieces and they may warp differently.
How do I download a file to the 3d printer
hello i have a problem with my brim its starts to tear off after a while, the print starts fine but then the brim starts to rise at the edges and then the whole print comes off
(i use ABS filament should i change something in cura)
what type of filament do you usually use for your cosplay stuff?
I would love to see your opinion on Polylite CosPLA! It could save a ton of time and money on post processing with FDM prints! My buddy showed me some prints with it after he sanded for about 15 minutes and it was SMOOTH.
I have a few rolls and I don’t like it. It feels brittle and doesn’t sand any better IMO
@@FranklyBuilt did you try both formulas? The type A and type B?
Hoping to buy a FDM printer, but god do I want a LCD printer...
GOOOOD xD
Welp, I guess learning Blender is my first priority :P
I don't remember what it was called, but I saw a video a couple years ago from the 3D Printing Nerd about the next level of FDM printing where the print head is able to change height while laying down layers to make smoother transitions between layers and there is less of the step effect on curved surfaces. Is this still a few years away on consumer printers?
back when i was young in the 80s you could buy models and put them together any where i can get prints for those ?
Etsy probably
Nice intro 😁❤️
question. Is resin any good for printing scale fish, or mock small animal busts. I don't want to pick up the wrong printer or material of amazon. Also what PRINTERS WORK WITH SKETCHFAB, if anyone in the comments knows the answer it would be cool if you responded.
Hello! So I’m tryna make a Power Ranger Chun Li helmet for a cosplay, which printer would you recommend? I tried making it from scratch using EVA foam but I wanted to give 3D printing a try!
awesome vid , i am looking to get the ender 3 s1pro 3d printer , would you recommend that printer ? if im correct it has all the new tech on it that's why i am considering it.
It’s decent ywah