I have an X1C and print a lot of dnd minis with it. Yes it takes longer, but it’s a happy choice I make. I print with a .2 nozzle, for npcs I choose either a .8 or .1 layer height, for a group of skeletons it’s fine if there is some layer lines. Honestly, at any distance greater then 6 inches no one sees them. For player characters I do a .04 layer height and honestly it’s so smooth you almost can’t tell it’s fdm printing. I noticed stringing, you need to dial in the filament settings more, it will help. As to using resin style prints, I do it all the time, the supports are for the most part easier to remove. Now there are some models that just don’t work well with that style, so I print regular with tree supports and it’s done well..
@@joshuajenkins5384 sorry didn’t see your question. Depending on the model some have the base included, some don’t, depends on the model. If I have my choice I prefer it included. Makes for a more solid and stable situation. I print the same way that resin typically does (at a 45 degree angle)
@@Battlewearbrother if you could run a quick video of pieces, setting and give your take on what filament you decided to go with that would be worth a watch for sure! My friends resign print my pieces, but I want to FDM mine. I hear them and watch them bitch about resign printing and don’t want to bother with it but want to make my own pieces. I hate having to ask them to spend their time doing what I could just do my self.
Honestly, as someone who has had FDM printers for over a decade now, it's not slicer settings. It's the precision of the printer. If the printer isn't meticulously aligned, maintained, lubricated, etc. then the layers won't be extruded exactly the same or laid down in the exact coordinates. Look at MirageC's tests into z wobble/z banding and the tests that have been done. A super small diameter difference in an extruder gear can cause layer lines to show in your print regardless of your slicer settings.
FDM simply is not as precise as resin is. Resin uses a screen, it has incredible precision FDM extrudes a noodle which already has tolerances, like all the other mechanical parts do, it is simply not doable to that scale. Now you could xreate your own FDM printer with a 1mm filament diameter and very precise worm gears etc. but it would still be very very slow. It´s just how that is.
@@sierraecho884 exactly. if details is the focus, there is no reason to not go resin printing. When you choose FDM you are accepting you either need to do a lot of postprocessing or are okay with some degree of layer lines for the time taken. With enough prints on a plate, resin printing is even faster than FDM as well.
This makes me wonder if a theoretical "mini quality" fdm could be done with a very small build plate and accompanyingly fine gearing and motors. Though I doubt that would wholly solve the maintenance issue.
a recommendation for dealing with layer artifacts: knock down the outer wall acceleration and decrease the OW speed by a decent margin. Also, in the Quality tab, set the print order to outer/inner/infill. It's not perfect, but i found it gave me much better results, and it's a staple part of my standard profile
I am working on some minis for Christmas gifts. I have done some in the past with 0.4mm nozzle and it did well just slowed everything down massively. But because I am lazy just used the "silent" mode on the bambu. I was happy with the results and did some of the tricks mentioned by 3D printing DM. This time I am going to attempt the 0.2mm nozzle since the models are very tiny. I well expect them to take a few days and I was recommended to switch to silk PLA to help with the extrusion issues. We will see...
@@FauxHammer @8:24 you can see the building lifting off the plate, when printing PLA you'll want to remove the top glass to avoid warping and heat creep. Like many others pointed out slow it down and run some tests using different infill patterns that will speed up the process and not affect the surface quality. I would also look into using plastic that can be sanded easily, there's many options like ABS or cosPLA that will allow light sanding on surfaces. Another thing with ABS is the ability to smooth with acetone that chemically melts the outer layer to a gloss like finish.
2:40 the difference is not just a fan, the complete assembly also comes with heater and thermistor, so it's much more work than just 2 screws. I would suggest buying the whole asembly to most people, and only buying the hotend itself if they end up with multiple used nozzles. Most people would probably only need one for a year or more (assuming it's the hardened one and they aren't abusing it heavily).
They don't make the 0.2mm in hardened steel, mostly because abrasive filaments usually won't fit through a nozzle that small - but yeah, was just going to post this same comment and then realised the video was days old and figured I'd check to see if someone else beat me to it. :)
I want to boost your engagement while continuing to hype up for one of my favorite creators: I have been a fan of Duncan Shadow for years now. His models are at that perfect level of detail that allows for fast batch painting while being anything but generic. They are "chunky" in the best possible way; every exaggerated expression or gesture comes out with a wash while weapons any equipment are large and obvious; players know that goblin has crossbow and is snarling from across the table. Of all my Pateron mini hoarding, Duncan Shadow's models are the ones that I actually print, paint and play with nearly every week.
Okay so I've been working on this for a little while, and I might have a profile for a P1P that works pretty decent at least to my standards. But there's also some setup with the model that you got to do. So the big one that I found that helps the most is you need to cut the model in half vertically so that each side only has one arm and one leg, this allows you to print with supports so they're supporting the more hidden side of the model (under the arm, between the legs). It makes a huge difference. Also I recommend adding pinholes with undersized pins just to help with alignment (you can do that in the slicer) and if you have a soldering iron you can smooth over that seem between the two parts if it wasn't put back together perfectly (a lot of times it's not necessary as they fit well) and you can smooth over those support points. I'm still playing around with it and now that there's 0.06 profile I'll have to try that and see how it comes out. Mind you, I am not a painter, I hate painting minis (too boring, plenty of other hobbies), so I don't paint them or just pay my friends to do it (also sometimes make like weapons different colors from the body since they're usually separated prints). My point is it's not going to come out resin quality good, but my friends with resin printers really complimented how good those FDM print models looked. In a couple weeks I'll probably post my profile settings once I try out that new 0.06 layer profile.
@@miteruno think of it as if you cut a mini in half between the legs and put the sliced surfaces against the print bed. You gotta play a little with it still based on the pose of the mini. Also important detail I forgot to mention is you need a smooth bed, textured PEI will leave too rough of a finish to mate the two halves without noticing.
I know you said you were asked to do this, but I am grateful you did. I learned about a new sculptor, you answered a few questions I had about the X1 c, and showed a "print painted" wargame forge building which I wanted to print similarly.
Honestly, the fact is supportless DnD minis are pretty amazing. I print them both in resin and FDM. Due to the costs and low prep time I just spam enemy dnd models on my fdm while I print more important figures on my resin.
I've actually gotten pretty good miniature supports using the newish thin tree setting. The minis are no longer encased in a cocoon of support material.
@@liesureleeminis8268 the latest Bambu Studio that came out about a week ago has organic tree supports now, which work even better. Can grow them from the base and branch out barely touching the figure you are printing. So they aren't surrounded by walls of support. Make the support wall thickness 1 because it defaults at 2 which is quite sturdy, but also harder to break off.
I printed minis for a good year or so on my Ender 3 before I got into resin and it was a pretty big learning curve, very slow but certainly achievable (although not to resin standards) As you say it really depends on the model, Duncan Louca's work is awesome and also DragonLock are good too... I still have two minis, a minotaur and a zombie bug bear (Loot Studios) in my display cabinet that I regularly forget are FDM until I pick them up. With the right painting techniques and a foot or so of distance they look pretty cool!
Howdy, do you know of any good ender 3 cura settings anywhere? I keep trying to find settings specifically for mini printing and most reddit threads seem all circlejerk-y, requiring a load of prior knowledge to make sense of them
I don't do much as far as minis go anymore, but I do know a lot about working with lower layer height and you definitely need a printer designed around minis, precision extrusion, low flow rates, and bone dry filament that is being kept heated during the print. You want a much shorter melt zone with minis as the volumetric flow rate is so low, and bambu labs printers have extended melt zones making them actively worse than your standard v6 hotend. The standard flow revo actually might be good if you are providing a lot of airflow to the heatsink as it has a tiny heater area. Gearing and tolerances on the extruder mechanism is also a big deal as a tiny shift in something like axial alignment or filament deformation can produce a noticeable change in flow rate. Part cooling is also huge, and for minis I think the berd-air style cooling is better, lighter, and suits itself to small areas like minis without having the mass airflow of over-the-bed stationary fan cooling. I have also heard that nozzle geometry matters a lot more, and I remember something about a nozzle that has a long conical stepdown designed for printing small things helping with pressure issues more than common nozzles that have from the sharp transition they have from manufacturing. Pretty sure that was a CNC kitchen video and they are Japanese going down to like .05mm.
I found a LONG time ago (bee printing FDM for over 10 years now) layer lines are from inconsistent nozzle temps from the part cooling fan or layer times/movements and z travel binding or bed wobble on bed slingers. The nozzle/part temp is greatly helped if you print multiple at a time as when you slow it down you will have to go very slow to prevent the part from curling by giving time to the part cooling fan to solidify before curling. Before part cooling was a thing i always printed a part cooling tower to take the nozzle off the part so it could cool. Printing multiple with low consistent part cooling fan will greatly help even the print temps for the parts as the filament is laying on plastic with more consistent temps
I print models on the p1p @ a 0.16 mm layer height with the stock .4mm nozzle. The models come out fine. Especially for proxying and especially vehicles where, like the buildings, layer lines aren't a huge deal.
Hi, good work, I particularly liked the experiment with the 20 microns. I've been trying to print miniatures (not the optimized ones) on my cheap Elegoo Neptune for over a year and I keep running into the same problems. Unfortunately, I can't afford a new and better printer right now (a Prusa Mk 4 with MMU would be quite nice). First of all, it is worth using tree or organic supports, ideally with thin branch thickness and diameter. Since the Bambu has an AMS, you should also print the supports with PVA (e.g. AquaSolve or PrimaSelect PVA+) at full contact. That should solve the problem with the unsightly contact surfaces. Since printing miniatures takes a lot of time, you should also use a LokBuild film. PLA sticks like hell to the build plate and you can turn off the heatbed. (I only print with it.) This also saves a lot of electricity. Furthermore, PLA should not be printed in an enclosure with a heated print bed. If you also lower the printing temperature by 5 - 15°, it could also work with 40 microns (a fifth of the nozzle diameter) or less. Filament and filament color also makes a significant difference. I got my best results with neutral PLA/PHA from colorfabb. If the layer lines are small, good results can be achieved with two to three layers of primer. Printing with PVB (e.g. PolysSmooth / FiberSmooth) also helps against layer lines. Best regards
Resin just isn't an option for many of us, without access to a properly ventilated space. I'm often frustrated with the results of my Ender 3 when it comes to printing minis, and I realize that it's time for an upgrade - but I just have no safe place to put a resin printer. FDM is what I'm stuck with, for now.
I've been printing my DND minis on my anycubic vyper with the .4mm nozzle with a layer height of .1mm using ABS and man I've been loving it! I scale them up to 150% so it's a little easier on the printer and since they are just player minis they aren't huge and the level of detail is great and even better since it's ABS I vapor smooth them with acetone and all the layer lines literally just melt away into a pretty smooth layer depending on how you let them sit in the closed container. If you have time definitely give it a shot in ABS, It's awesome seeing the detail that's achieved with it
Oh and another bonus to it being ABS, when you get any support scarring from ripping off the supports, the vapor smoothing gets rid of the nasty stress marks on the mini too
Im beginning to like resin printing more and more, but thats because I've learned the steps it takes to keep it a clean(ish) process. I have a video coming out (hopefully) this month in regards to making resin more enjoyable to print.
It's not a 0.02 nozzle as you say at @02:05 'ish, and in your blurb. Its 0.2 and we have them on almost every fdm printer. FDM is great for terrain. For minis I suggest priming with vallejo airbrush primer.
What quality could you expect with the Bambu A1? I'm looking at getting back into printing, and considering the Bambu's are on sale at the moment would be a good time. For me the A1 or A1 Mini would be perfect. Considering you're using the top end Bambu, just wondering what I could expect with their entry level models.
Excellent video. I like to see this question still being asked since I agree you can get great results. I have used my Prusa mini to test some of my miniatures to see if it would work for FDM users. I think even with extremely thin layer and a 0.2mm noz you will still have small line because of the nature of the medium. I tried PVB filament too to smooth with isopropyl. That had an interesting result but ended up only useful for transparent components on terrain I made. This all being said I found that 0.2mm with low layer heights makes for a very durable fun to put on the table model. I would like to implement your thoughts on solid painting to hide lines.
Great video, I have been printing minis with my Bambu X1 Carbon for the last year and it's largely been a positive experience. The .08 layer height typically provides a good enough surface quality, but I always have to keep in mind that the print is going to have a "good" side and "bad" side because of support scarring. It works really well when you can easily hide the "bad" side of the model (e.g. the "bad" side of shoulder armor is the inside that is going to be glued anyways), but sometimes it isn't possible. The easiest way I've found to do this is to cut the prints into halves or quarters when there isn't an easily hideable side. It does leave a large seam that needs to be glued together and can be difficult to get right, but the result is much better than having a side that is scarred up from supports. I have yet to try dissolvable supports, but the part that keeps me away is the price. Would love to see someone try this out. The layer lines are an issue on organic models, but they are easy to hide if the model doesn't have a smooth surface texture like skin. Fur and scales turn out really well because the rough texture hides the layer lines naturally. In some cases the layer lines turn out well for a metallic chassis surface finish as the layer lines look like a brushed metal finish, but in other cases it just looks weird. I may try switching to a .2 mm nozzle, but I have a feeling it will increase the time quite a bit for a marginal gain in surface quality due to the lower flow rate. Your video showed this off really well and I am interested to see comparisons between a .08 mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle and the settings you used in your video, including surface quality, time to print, and any other intangibles like support strength.
I have a kickstarter X1C and have been using it nearly 24/7. I have used both the 0.4 and 0.2 nozzles when printing models that have a lot of detail. Although the 0.2 nozzle does increase print time, the results in quality between the 0.4 and the 0.2 nozzles are very visible. I almost exclusively print with a 0.2 nozzle because of this. Customers no longer complain about layer lines or muted details. Everything comes out sharp, crisp and even. I had refined my 0.4 nozzle profiles to what I thought was quite good, but the 0.2 nozzle blows those models away with ease.
I like Resin printers detail but I hate the procedure. I am planning to buy a Bambu Lab P1P to print with PLA , PLA+ . I heard that enclosures are good for other materials like ABS and bad for PLA that why I choosed P1P instread of P1S. Most of the time I want to print terrain or large scale models like a vehicle or a Dreadnought size and Heroquest board but I still care about detail. Do you think I must buy 0.2 nozzle or keep the 0.4 nozzle? Can you make a video for the slicer for best settings of 0.2 and 0.4 nozzle according to best detail? From the specs I saw that the Bambu Lab X1 P1S P1P can print at speed 500 but I guess I must set it to 200-250 for better detail. What speed did you use for the miniatures of this video?
You'll get better detail with the 0.02 on smaller models but most miniatures aren't made with FDM in mind. I just used the standard settings In the slicer for all of these models
@@FauxHammer Well you must decrease the outer wall size if it use standard and the total speed if it use around 400-500 to 250. I saw great improvement to my Ender 3 V2 with these changes on small models(Smaller outer wall, half speed).
I went with a fdm more specifically Bambu because of Danny and you. Thanks for this video so I can go back to some of Danny's old videos for inspiration!
I don't know whether your slicer will let you do this, but you could try to fudge the supports extrusion multiplier for them to be effectively thinner than the nozzle width. Make them dense enough and they'll still hold up whatever they need to be holding up fine, but are easy to remove without ripping up the model because there's basically no cohesion to them. How to smooth out the sides? I don't think FDM can do this. Because the bead as it's extruded is fundamentally a little barrel shaped, on top of whatever vertical alignment issues your printer may produce due to extrusion or mechanical inconsistency. I think you need solvent smoothing or a filler material that you can apply on the surface so that when you paint the model, it doesn't start highlighting layer lines. Primer, plastic putty, etc. Some suggest actually using the UV printer resin as a filler agent. But please brush it on and wear PPE, i have seen one guy airbrush spray it on and that's just ludicrously irresponsible and dangerous, please don't be that guy.
If you are going to print a titan, use a 0.4 nozzle. You can see some Titans on printedwarhammer with nice qualities. You can achieve good quality print with the 0.4 nozzle using the "Fine" option. The 0.2 has "better quality" but takes twice the time than the .4 nozzle
Not like you need a new subscriber but you just got a new one 😁. Thank you so much for your video! I am going to start playing with my P1s and the 0.20mm nozle since 8nhavent really used it other than once to print a funko pop which was really good.
Man, there are people like Danny that I wish still created content, but even moreso, wish there was a way to know that they're ok. If they decided to go on and do something else, good for them! But it'd be sad to realize someone left the community for other reasons and never know.
He's posted updates on a kickstarter as of September this year. Some major issues with being unable to fulfill it, and mentioned some health issues in 2022 that led to him not posting content.
I agree with your conclusion, I too researched extensively into 3D printing miniatures with filament and resin. I eventually purchased an Ultimaker S3 dual nozzle 3D printer, which has quick swappable nozzles from 0.8mm down to 0.25mm, producing silky smooth almost layer-free results, in the smallest of highly detailed miniature models. When printing miniatures in PLA filament, I sometimes finish the models in a vapour chamber to further smooth out the layer lines. 👍
I have seen an article somewhere about using acetone to smooth the surface of a filament miniature after printing. I can't find the article now, but that might be an avenue to getting better minis from filament.
3:56 this is not true, you can get details smaller than the nozzle size, you just can’t print walls thinner than the nozzle… well, you can do that too actually, but then you risk losing some accuracy.
Always print multiple models if you can, it will save overall waste rather than using it for 1 model at a time. Loving my bambu so far, and I just got the 0.2mm nozzle to try this!
If you want to save time when FDM printing, you can also play with infill density. Those buildings seem unnecessarily filled to me. I bet you can stand on one and it won’t break.
Glad to see more and more interest in this, was playing around with printing a 1/12 scale helmet on the P1P for a Black Series figure and just kept trying to see what if I could get it perfect, honestly it's not bad at 0.06, there is loss of the smallest details (same details are just barely visible in resin) but that's to be expected. Will be messing around with it some more this weekend, from what I've recognized as a pain point thus far are the overhangs, especially on the underside if there are any, like on a dome for example (that's with it resting on a full bed of supports). I think splitting models in half and printing them split side on the bed is likely the best way to do it.
I have an X1 Carbon. For some things it is great, but the only time I tried a figure the results were bad enough for me not try again! I have been printing various WW2 tanks for gaming. Generally these come out pretty useable with a reasonable print time. Fine for on table use where you are not looking at them close up (and my painting is a bigger issue for close up than the quality of the mini). Problem I do find is overhangs. Even using support and playing with the speeds they at best look awful with the filament drooping down. Not sure what to try with the settings to improve this. That said, a resin printer is on my shopping list after Christmas for minis, and I will use the Bambu printer what what it is good at (multi colour relatively flat prints)
as someone who wants to print some of those models on my minifactory having the resin printer be the only choice i'm left wonder how to do that then? From what i have heard is you must wear gloves and a mask and have ventilation is that true?
I kinda wished in these FDM reviews, you would take some time to try testing them with specifically terrain. The Printmini's modular shipping container is printable on both Resin and FDM printers. It's a decent size, but still having some smaller detailing like rivets and bracing. I feels like it would make a good benchmarch for comparasons.
There’s really no value in testing print quality on FDM printers. The second you do you invite arguments of “waghhhh you can get better if you change these settings” I just like to focus on user experience with the machines
I’m dying 😂 after thinking printing minis on my Bambu x1 would be a waste of time, I finally randomly came across a video that made me interested in the possibility. I just came from Danny’s video (first video I’d ever seen from him) that was made 5 years ago and wanted to see if there was as an updated video on the X1. Typed it in the search only to find you’d made one 4 days ago!! I just started into the d&d/mini hobby within the past few weeks and found your channel around that time. Anyways, that timing just tickled me!!
I just sold my Saturn 2 and mercury xs setup as after 2 years i just hate the mess resin causes and the post processing is a pain. I just have my Neptune 3 max and P1S. I follow Fat dragon studios as Tom is great at doing minis on fdm
Printed a couple of mini's on my P1X without playing with the settings and they were great without sanding or other polishing techniques. Thicker paints (Vallejo) helped a lot. Speedpaint was not a good idea.
As someone considering getting into this hobby, the detail and comparatively short time with resin printing is amazing, but it seems a LOT more involved (liquid resin, harsh cleaners, fumes, UV curing cabinets, drip trays/bibs, hazardous waste disposal, etc.) than FDM. Then I watched this video. Seriously...a week to print a mini?!?! Whew, that's a long time. I'm not particularly impatient either, but that's a lot more than I was expecting. Makes me wonder if all the toxic, goopy BS with the resin printer isn't actually preferable. Maybe I missed it, but did you address fumes with the X1 and how it compares to resin printing?
I have no idea why it took a week, I printed a 50mm high mini at 0.10mm layer height and it took 1hour and 15mins on my P1S with a 0.4 nozzle and looked great for FDM.
Hello. I soo at the begining that you have all the bambu printers, i want to buy a bambu printer and I don't know if is there a big difrence in printing betwen x1c and p1s. Can you help me decide what to chose?
I feel like there's some smoothing that could be achieved with some kind of additional mechanical motion in the layers creation process. Much like you're piping analog, there's techniques to do more than just lay a bead... That said, I'm certainly not in a position to r&d such a feature. Even vibration with ultrasonics could potentially do something to smooth layer lines if the temp and material velocity is accounted for(pardon me, in an ultrasonic tech and I apply my experiences to random stuff from time to time.😂)... Hmmm... 🤔
08:21 duuude the warping on the right corner, btw too much infill. That's why it took so long and it's not a stress or technical model, so 10% infill would be enough.
So I am relatively new to this hobby, and had my Carbon X1 for about a month now, and the one thing that has been driving me nuts is my Aoleon The Martian Girl character can’t print on it without major fails. I have tried everything I can think of and have been hitting a brick wall. The support filament doesn’t work properly and when using a separate support filament the printer creates more filament ‘poop’ than needed to print the model itself. The printer is worse than my cats in that its “litter box” has to be emptied several times during a single print. Furthermore, it can’t do rounded organic shapes well without things like speghetifying or layer lines and if you try ironing like I did, it ended up melting the entire print head enclosure and clogging the nozzle. It was a nightmare project for me that ended in misery. And I’m now at the age where I just don’t have the patience for dealing with crap anymore. I expect things to basically just work, because life is too short.
Tried doing multicolor minis with the .2mm nozzle but kept having jams from what I’m guessing are flow rate issues. Gonna try to go back to it at some point, but for now I’ve just been printing tiles.
Were you still using the .2 nozzle for the buildings? six days seems excessive especially on a Bambu machine. From the video it looks like you could have used a .4 or .6 without much if any loss of detail and way less infill.
i print 6mm (full spectrum dominance, specifically) scale minis, scaled up to 133% (so the math stays right) on my p1p w/ .2mm head with 10% gyroid infill and otherwise default settings and they turn out excellent.
Hello everyone. I am a 3D modeler and I recently bought my first resin printer to start a business of Art Toys and large-sized figures (15 - 20 cm). A few days later I had to return it because I don't know if I'm allergic to the resin but the fumes it released burned my eyes and lungs (even with protection and ventilation). My question is... My figures and art toys are cartoon style, since they are large in size, could I get good quality with these bambulab printers? I can't afford to buy the X1c, could I use a cheaper bambulab model? Which one would you recommend? Lately I see a lot of people using the A1 mini, is it better quality as the work surface is smaller? Thank you and greetings.
I've been trying to improve minis on my Bambu P1S, I just lack the experience and knowledge to pull it off though. My brother's really into minis and painting them, so I'm trying to provide half decent models, but the supports are a monumental issue for me.
You should try cutting up your models so you can glue them together from pieces that are different colours then you don't have to waste time with multiple colour prints you just print all the parts that are the same colour for all your models in one go then then next colour and so on and then superglue the finished pieces together into a multicolor print you can even split the print between fdm and resin if a specific portion needs more detail
You can smoth your prints what you do is either lightly paint on resin on the model and cure it or, use Bondo filler and sand it smooth or use primer that also fills in the layer lines
You can print the miniatures in ABS with the 60 micron layer resolution and do vapor smoothing, which makes it look like an actually resin print with glossyness
I am more familiar with the P1 series. But the difference in the nozzel configurations is not just the fan. It is also the Thermister and heater. And you probably want 2 of those for swapping back and forth. (Plus they are a bit fiddly to swap)
@@FauxHammer yes, but swapping the fan, thermister and heater between two hotends is fiddly and requires new thermal grease on every swap. If you plan to do it once and never go back, fine, but if you plan to ever go back, it's not a huge amount extra to get it with the electronics already installed. I have a 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 hotend all with electronics, and I regularly swap between all of them depending on what I want to print.
0:51 I'm at the starting point right now. I bought an X1C first. Received my A1 mini today because I wanted to experience using it (and a gift for my mom). I'm already thinking of buying another AMS, but I might end up getting the P1S Combo instead. Insanely good quality printers. The only gripe I have is EVERY SINGLE COLOR being out of stock almost ALWAYS besides white and black. I am seriously considering making a bot to scrape the site and automatically place orders at this point when 4+ colors I want are available. I NEED ALL THE FILAMENTS
seems you and i had the same idea , ive spent the last few weeks printing on pla+ resin prints and im using the x1 carbon and im using the resin supports and setting , im getting great results
Okay, so this may be a stupid question, but why can it purge the old color by using it as infill? I'm sure this wouldn't work with some minis, but on structures and larger minis, it seems like it might work.
RIP Danny/3D Printing DM. Even before his kickstarter collapsed and basically no one got anything they paid for he kind of disappeared. I think he should have kept up his videos and explained what was going on - owned it. Instead he seems to have been too afraid to explain the issues and that has drastically damaged his brand. I freakin loved his content and he was one of the people who got me into 3D printing years ago. I hope he comes back in some form or other but I kind of doubt it.
It looked like your infill percent setting seemed really high. I usually bump up the number of walls to 3-4 for terrain and do 5-10% infill with the rectangular pattern. Great video still! Definitely looking forward to the day FDM can really do resin quality prints easily
This is an important detail, thank you for pointing that out. Whenever I design models for printing, I also spend a lot of time thinking about where I can add voids on the model to avoid infill entirely; basically, where can this model be made hollow in such a way that it saves material and time.
Yeah, I've been wondering what happened to Danny for a while now. Even before he vanished completely, his videos have become less frequent. Possibly burnout? :/ I hope he's doing okay
Dry brushing fdm terrain works alright if you have more texture and mess it up more with clashing strokes. Makes it so you have to focus on it to see it. The more the eye has to draw towards the less it sees in the periphery.
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I have an X1C and print a lot of dnd minis with it. Yes it takes longer, but it’s a happy choice I make. I print with a .2 nozzle, for npcs I choose either a .8 or .1 layer height, for a group of skeletons it’s fine if there is some layer lines. Honestly, at any distance greater then 6 inches no one sees them. For player characters I do a .04 layer height and honestly it’s so smooth you almost can’t tell it’s fdm printing. I noticed stringing, you need to dial in the filament settings more, it will help. As to using resin style prints, I do it all the time, the supports are for the most part easier to remove. Now there are some models that just don’t work well with that style, so I print regular with tree supports and it’s done well..
Do you print the model separately from the base plate?
Curious what material you use
@@sylvernale I main go to is Overture PLA +, I am switching over to Sunlu PLA+ , really want to try the new Hatchbox Max
@@joshuajenkins5384 sorry didn’t see your question. Depending on the model some have the base included, some don’t, depends on the model. If I have my choice I prefer it included. Makes for a more solid and stable situation. I print the same way that resin typically does (at a 45 degree angle)
@@Battlewearbrother if you could run a quick video of pieces, setting and give your take on what filament you decided to go with that would be worth a watch for sure!
My friends resign print my pieces, but I want to FDM mine. I hear them and watch them bitch about resign printing and don’t want to bother with it but want to make my own pieces. I hate having to ask them to spend their time doing what I could just do my self.
Honestly, as someone who has had FDM printers for over a decade now, it's not slicer settings. It's the precision of the printer. If the printer isn't meticulously aligned, maintained, lubricated, etc. then the layers won't be extruded exactly the same or laid down in the exact coordinates. Look at MirageC's tests into z wobble/z banding and the tests that have been done. A super small diameter difference in an extruder gear can cause layer lines to show in your print regardless of your slicer settings.
EXACTLY!! Sooooo many variables to getting pristine prints regardless of the size...no substitute for lots of experience and filament! 😂
And don’t forget the filament diameter changes.
FDM simply is not as precise as resin is. Resin uses a screen, it has incredible precision FDM extrudes a noodle which already has tolerances, like all the other mechanical parts do, it is simply not doable to that scale. Now you could xreate your own FDM printer with a 1mm filament diameter and very precise worm gears etc. but it would still be very very slow. It´s just how that is.
@@sierraecho884 exactly. if details is the focus, there is no reason to not go resin printing. When you choose FDM you are accepting you either need to do a lot of postprocessing or are okay with some degree of layer lines for the time taken.
With enough prints on a plate, resin printing is even faster than FDM as well.
This makes me wonder if a theoretical "mini quality" fdm could be done with a very small build plate and accompanyingly fine gearing and motors. Though I doubt that would wholly solve the maintenance issue.
Layer lines are a reality, I'm glad to hear people aren't so stuck up on them and they just enjoy painting and gaming.
a recommendation for dealing with layer artifacts: knock down the outer wall acceleration and decrease the OW speed by a decent margin. Also, in the Quality tab, set the print order to outer/inner/infill. It's not perfect, but i found it gave me much better results, and it's a staple part of my standard profile
I’ll have a go at this and try again, thanks
I am working on some minis for Christmas gifts. I have done some in the past with 0.4mm nozzle and it did well just slowed everything down massively. But because I am lazy just used the "silent" mode on the bambu. I was happy with the results and did some of the tricks mentioned by 3D printing DM.
This time I am going to attempt the 0.2mm nozzle since the models are very tiny. I well expect them to take a few days and I was recommended to switch to silk PLA to help with the extrusion issues. We will see...
@@FauxHammer @8:24 you can see the building lifting off the plate, when printing PLA you'll want to remove the top glass to avoid warping and heat creep. Like many others pointed out slow it down and run some tests using different infill patterns that will speed up the process and not affect the surface quality. I would also look into using plastic that can be sanded easily, there's many options like ABS or cosPLA that will allow light sanding on surfaces. Another thing with ABS is the ability to smooth with acetone that chemically melts the outer layer to a gloss like finish.
2:40 the difference is not just a fan, the complete assembly also comes with heater and thermistor, so it's much more work than just 2 screws. I would suggest buying the whole asembly to most people, and only buying the hotend itself if they end up with multiple used nozzles. Most people would probably only need one for a year or more (assuming it's the hardened one and they aren't abusing it heavily).
Ah, didn’t realise this. I’ll stick to the one with the fan then?
@@FauxHammer yeah, that's just 2 screws :)
They don't make the 0.2mm in hardened steel, mostly because abrasive filaments usually won't fit through a nozzle that small - but yeah, was just going to post this same comment and then realised the video was days old and figured I'd check to see if someone else beat me to it. :)
This is what I do because it makes swapping so much easier. I envy the tool-less quick swapping of the A1.
I want to boost your engagement while continuing to hype up for one of my favorite creators: I have been a fan of Duncan Shadow for years now. His models are at that perfect level of detail that allows for fast batch painting while being anything but generic. They are "chunky" in the best possible way; every exaggerated expression or gesture comes out with a wash while weapons any equipment are large and obvious; players know that goblin has crossbow and is snarling from across the table. Of all my Pateron mini hoarding, Duncan Shadow's models are the ones that I actually print, paint and play with nearly every week.
yeah they are super good aren't they.
Great video and thanks for the shout out. Glad you liked my work!
I LOVED your work! I had so many questions about it at Essen Spiel too, I sent them your way ;)
Okay so I've been working on this for a little while, and I might have a profile for a P1P that works pretty decent at least to my standards. But there's also some setup with the model that you got to do. So the big one that I found that helps the most is you need to cut the model in half vertically so that each side only has one arm and one leg, this allows you to print with supports so they're supporting the more hidden side of the model (under the arm, between the legs). It makes a huge difference. Also I recommend adding pinholes with undersized pins just to help with alignment (you can do that in the slicer) and if you have a soldering iron you can smooth over that seem between the two parts if it wasn't put back together perfectly (a lot of times it's not necessary as they fit well) and you can smooth over those support points.
I'm still playing around with it and now that there's 0.06 profile I'll have to try that and see how it comes out.
Mind you, I am not a painter, I hate painting minis (too boring, plenty of other hobbies), so I don't paint them or just pay my friends to do it (also sometimes make like weapons different colors from the body since they're usually separated prints). My point is it's not going to come out resin quality good, but my friends with resin printers really complimented how good those FDM print models looked.
In a couple weeks I'll probably post my profile settings once I try out that new 0.06 layer profile.
Definitely interested, since I have a P1P also. 😅
the cutting in half is genius!!! How do you add the pinholes? I'd love to get a peep at your profile, if you can share. thanks!
so the cutted plane goes facing downwards?
@@miteruno think of it as if you cut a mini in half between the legs and put the sliced surfaces against the print bed. You gotta play a little with it still based on the pose of the mini.
Also important detail I forgot to mention is you need a smooth bed, textured PEI will leave too rough of a finish to mate the two halves without noticing.
I know you said you were asked to do this, but I am grateful you did. I learned about a new sculptor, you answered a few questions I had about the X1 c, and showed a "print painted" wargame forge building which I wanted to print similarly.
Honestly, the fact is supportless DnD minis are pretty amazing. I print them both in resin and FDM. Due to the costs and low prep time I just spam enemy dnd models on my fdm while I print more important figures on my resin.
I've actually gotten pretty good miniature supports using the newish thin tree setting. The minis are no longer encased in a cocoon of support material.
What are the thin tree settings?
@@liesureleeminis8268cura does auto generated tree supports
@@liesureleeminis8268 the latest Bambu Studio that came out about a week ago has organic tree supports now, which work even better. Can grow them from the base and branch out barely touching the figure you are printing. So they aren't surrounded by walls of support. Make the support wall thickness 1 because it defaults at 2 which is quite sturdy, but also harder to break off.
@@antmax good to know!
why don't i see that as an option in my studio app? all i see is normal (auto or manual) and tree (auto or manual)... thanks!!!@@antmax
I printed minis for a good year or so on my Ender 3 before I got into resin and it was a pretty big learning curve, very slow but certainly achievable (although not to resin standards) As you say it really depends on the model, Duncan Louca's work is awesome and also DragonLock are good too... I still have two minis, a minotaur and a zombie bug bear (Loot Studios) in my display cabinet that I regularly forget are FDM until I pick them up. With the right painting techniques and a foot or so of distance they look pretty cool!
Howdy, do you know of any good ender 3 cura settings anywhere? I keep trying to find settings specifically for mini printing and most reddit threads seem all circlejerk-y, requiring a load of prior knowledge to make sense of them
I don't do much as far as minis go anymore, but I do know a lot about working with lower layer height and you definitely need a printer designed around minis, precision extrusion, low flow rates, and bone dry filament that is being kept heated during the print. You want a much shorter melt zone with minis as the volumetric flow rate is so low, and bambu labs printers have extended melt zones making them actively worse than your standard v6 hotend. The standard flow revo actually might be good if you are providing a lot of airflow to the heatsink as it has a tiny heater area. Gearing and tolerances on the extruder mechanism is also a big deal as a tiny shift in something like axial alignment or filament deformation can produce a noticeable change in flow rate. Part cooling is also huge, and for minis I think the berd-air style cooling is better, lighter, and suits itself to small areas like minis without having the mass airflow of over-the-bed stationary fan cooling. I have also heard that nozzle geometry matters a lot more, and I remember something about a nozzle that has a long conical stepdown designed for printing small things helping with pressure issues more than common nozzles that have from the sharp transition they have from manufacturing. Pretty sure that was a CNC kitchen video and they are Japanese going down to like .05mm.
I found a LONG time ago (bee printing FDM for over 10 years now) layer lines are from inconsistent nozzle temps from the part cooling fan or layer times/movements and z travel binding or bed wobble on bed slingers. The nozzle/part temp is greatly helped if you print multiple at a time as when you slow it down you will have to go very slow to prevent the part from curling by giving time to the part cooling fan to solidify before curling. Before part cooling was a thing i always printed a part cooling tower to take the nozzle off the part so it could cool. Printing multiple with low consistent part cooling fan will greatly help even the print temps for the parts as the filament is laying on plastic with more consistent temps
cool tower lol now they call it a prime tower and its just for multi color printing but maybe we can come back
I print models on the p1p @ a 0.16 mm layer height with the stock .4mm nozzle. The models come out fine. Especially for proxying and especially vehicles where, like the buildings, layer lines aren't a huge deal.
I just finished printing a warhound on a p1s at 0.16 and it is more than just fine. Took far less time than fauxhammer’s 8d print…
Hi, good work, I particularly liked the experiment with the 20 microns. I've been trying to print miniatures (not the optimized ones) on my cheap Elegoo Neptune for over a year and I keep running into the same problems. Unfortunately, I can't afford a new and better printer right now (a Prusa Mk 4 with MMU would be quite nice). First of all, it is worth using tree or organic supports, ideally with thin branch thickness and diameter. Since the Bambu has an AMS, you should also print the supports with PVA (e.g. AquaSolve or PrimaSelect PVA+) at full contact. That should solve the problem with the unsightly contact surfaces. Since printing miniatures takes a lot of time, you should also use a LokBuild film. PLA sticks like hell to the build plate and you can turn off the heatbed. (I only print with it.) This also saves a lot of electricity. Furthermore, PLA should not be printed in an enclosure with a heated print bed. If you also lower the printing temperature by 5 - 15°, it could also work with 40 microns (a fifth of the nozzle diameter) or less. Filament and filament color also makes a significant difference. I got my best results with neutral PLA/PHA from colorfabb. If the layer lines are small, good results can be achieved with two to three layers of primer. Printing with PVB (e.g. PolysSmooth / FiberSmooth) also helps against layer lines. Best regards
Resin just isn't an option for many of us, without access to a properly ventilated space. I'm often frustrated with the results of my Ender 3 when it comes to printing minis, and I realize that it's time for an upgrade - but I just have no safe place to put a resin printer. FDM is what I'm stuck with, for now.
or we have a space like that but it's used for something else that really should not be mixed with resin
@@angrydragonslayeryou must be flushed with pride when your prints succeed. 😅
@@crapphone7744 oh... no, the room in question is a nitrogen/argon cleanroom.
am self-employed in a rather special field
Garage
@AlexK-i8y Not everyone has a garage.
I've been printing my DND minis on my anycubic vyper with the .4mm nozzle with a layer height of .1mm using ABS and man I've been loving it! I scale them up to 150% so it's a little easier on the printer and since they are just player minis they aren't huge and the level of detail is great and even better since it's ABS I vapor smooth them with acetone and all the layer lines literally just melt away into a pretty smooth layer depending on how you let them sit in the closed container.
If you have time definitely give it a shot in ABS, It's awesome seeing the detail that's achieved with it
Oh and another bonus to it being ABS, when you get any support scarring from ripping off the supports, the vapor smoothing gets rid of the nasty stress marks on the mini too
Im beginning to like resin printing more and more, but thats because I've learned the steps it takes to keep it a clean(ish) process. I have a video coming out (hopefully) this month in regards to making resin more enjoyable to print.
I also watched Danny's channel when I was first starting out. Your videos have become a must watch as well, keep up the great work.
What happened to Danny's channel? No uploads in over a year.
@nelsoncabrera6464 I thought he started a business. I'd need to check all his sites though
Workshops possibly
For 2 years? @@richm5276
It's not a 0.02 nozzle as you say at @02:05 'ish, and in your blurb. Its 0.2 and we have them on almost every fdm printer. FDM is great for terrain. For minis I suggest priming with vallejo airbrush primer.
What about large detail models for statues?
*immediately makes sure the bolt gun video has been liked*
Fat Dragon Games also makes support-less stops designed for FDM printing.
What quality could you expect with the Bambu A1? I'm looking at getting back into printing, and considering the Bambu's are on sale at the moment would be a good time. For me the A1 or A1 Mini would be perfect. Considering you're using the top end Bambu, just wondering what I could expect with their entry level models.
Excellent video. I like to see this question still being asked since I agree you can get great results. I have used my Prusa mini to test some of my miniatures to see if it would work for FDM users. I think even with extremely thin layer and a 0.2mm noz you will still have small line because of the nature of the medium. I tried PVB filament too to smooth with isopropyl. That had an interesting result but ended up only useful for transparent components on terrain I made. This all being said I found that 0.2mm with low layer heights makes for a very durable fun to put on the table model. I would like to implement your thoughts on solid painting to hide lines.
Great video, I have been printing minis with my Bambu X1 Carbon for the last year and it's largely been a positive experience. The .08 layer height typically provides a good enough surface quality, but I always have to keep in mind that the print is going to have a "good" side and "bad" side because of support scarring.
It works really well when you can easily hide the "bad" side of the model (e.g. the "bad" side of shoulder armor is the inside that is going to be glued anyways), but sometimes it isn't possible. The easiest way I've found to do this is to cut the prints into halves or quarters when there isn't an easily hideable side. It does leave a large seam that needs to be glued together and can be difficult to get right, but the result is much better than having a side that is scarred up from supports. I have yet to try dissolvable supports, but the part that keeps me away is the price. Would love to see someone try this out.
The layer lines are an issue on organic models, but they are easy to hide if the model doesn't have a smooth surface texture like skin. Fur and scales turn out really well because the rough texture hides the layer lines naturally. In some cases the layer lines turn out well for a metallic chassis surface finish as the layer lines look like a brushed metal finish, but in other cases it just looks weird.
I may try switching to a .2 mm nozzle, but I have a feeling it will increase the time quite a bit for a marginal gain in surface quality due to the lower flow rate. Your video showed this off really well and I am interested to see comparisons between a .08 mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle and the settings you used in your video, including surface quality, time to print, and any other intangibles like support strength.
I have a kickstarter X1C and have been using it nearly 24/7. I have used both the 0.4 and 0.2 nozzles when printing models that have a lot of detail. Although the 0.2 nozzle does increase print time, the results in quality between the 0.4 and the 0.2 nozzles are very visible. I almost exclusively print with a 0.2 nozzle because of this. Customers no longer complain about layer lines or muted details. Everything comes out sharp, crisp and even. I had refined my 0.4 nozzle profiles to what I thought was quite good, but the 0.2 nozzle blows those models away with ease.
I like Resin printers detail but I hate the procedure.
I am planning to buy a Bambu Lab P1P to print with PLA , PLA+ .
I heard that enclosures are good for other materials like ABS and bad for PLA that why I choosed P1P instread of P1S.
Most of the time I want to print terrain or large scale models like a vehicle or a Dreadnought size and Heroquest board but I still care about detail.
Do you think I must buy 0.2 nozzle or keep the 0.4 nozzle?
Can you make a video for the slicer for best settings of 0.2 and 0.4 nozzle according to best detail?
From the specs I saw that the Bambu Lab X1 P1S P1P can print at speed 500 but I guess I must set it to 200-250 for better detail.
What speed did you use for the miniatures of this video?
You'll get better detail with the 0.02 on smaller models but most miniatures aren't made with FDM in mind. I just used the standard settings In the slicer for all of these models
@@FauxHammer Well you must decrease the outer wall size if it use standard and the total speed if it use around 400-500 to 250.
I saw great improvement to my Ender 3 V2 with these changes on small models(Smaller outer wall, half speed).
I went with a fdm more specifically Bambu because of Danny and you. Thanks for this video so I can go back to some of Danny's old videos for inspiration!
I don't know whether your slicer will let you do this, but you could try to fudge the supports extrusion multiplier for them to be effectively thinner than the nozzle width. Make them dense enough and they'll still hold up whatever they need to be holding up fine, but are easy to remove without ripping up the model because there's basically no cohesion to them.
How to smooth out the sides? I don't think FDM can do this. Because the bead as it's extruded is fundamentally a little barrel shaped, on top of whatever vertical alignment issues your printer may produce due to extrusion or mechanical inconsistency. I think you need solvent smoothing or a filler material that you can apply on the surface so that when you paint the model, it doesn't start highlighting layer lines. Primer, plastic putty, etc. Some suggest actually using the UV printer resin as a filler agent. But please brush it on and wear PPE, i have seen one guy airbrush spray it on and that's just ludicrously irresponsible and dangerous, please don't be that guy.
For things like buildings try using a larger layer height and adding "Fuzzy Skin" in the slicer to hide the layer lines.
If you are going to print a titan, use a 0.4 nozzle. You can see some Titans on printedwarhammer with nice qualities.
You can achieve good quality print with the 0.4 nozzle using the "Fine" option. The 0.2 has "better quality" but takes twice the time than the .4 nozzle
I love Danny's channel and also have been wondering where he went. Glad to see I'm not alone!
He’s ok. Not my place to share. But he is good and moved on to different things
If you talk to someone that talks to him, let them know to let him know, many of us miss him and hope all is well!! @@FauxHammer
I developed a resin sensitivity as a result of resin printing. I would love to see a good FDM profile for my X1C (preferable with supports)!
I'm worried for the day that happens to me.
Not like you need a new subscriber but you just got a new one 😁. Thank you so much for your video! I am going to start playing with my P1s and the 0.20mm nozle since 8nhavent really used it other than once to print a funko pop which was really good.
Man, there are people like Danny that I wish still created content, but even moreso, wish there was a way to know that they're ok. If they decided to go on and do something else, good for them! But it'd be sad to realize someone left the community for other reasons and never know.
He’s ok, a mutual friend told me
@@FauxHammer He is ok, I think he decided to lay low after a bad Kickstarter.
He's posted updates on a kickstarter as of September this year. Some major issues with being unable to fulfill it, and mentioned some health issues in 2022 that led to him not posting content.
You can reduce print times by quite a loot by lowering infill %. that 6 day print you showed had way too much infill
I agree with your conclusion, I too researched extensively into 3D printing miniatures with filament and resin. I eventually purchased an Ultimaker S3 dual nozzle 3D printer, which has quick swappable nozzles from 0.8mm down to 0.25mm, producing silky smooth almost layer-free results, in the smallest of highly detailed miniature models. When printing miniatures in PLA filament, I sometimes finish the models in a vapour chamber to further smooth out the layer lines. 👍
I have seen an article somewhere about using acetone to smooth the surface of a filament miniature after printing. I can't find the article now, but that might be an avenue to getting better minis from filament.
Acetone melts plastic, it's great for building and big object. You can lose detail for small miniatures if you're not careful
pretty sure that only abs
ASA and ABS can be vapor smoothed with acetone.
This works only for a difrent material, not PLA.
@@slightlyliftedPVB can be smoothed with Isopropanol
That's the video I've been sitting on making myself for 3 months. I bought this printer for minis myself among other things
3:56 this is not true, you can get details smaller than the nozzle size, you just can’t print walls thinner than the nozzle… well, you can do that too actually, but then you risk losing some accuracy.
Always print multiple models if you can, it will save overall waste rather than using it for 1 model at a time. Loving my bambu so far, and I just got the 0.2mm nozzle to try this!
If you want to save time when FDM printing, you can also play with infill density. Those buildings seem unnecessarily filled to me. I bet you can stand on one and it won’t break.
exactly, i would even hollow my models to not use so much infill inside .
Glad to see more and more interest in this, was playing around with printing a 1/12 scale helmet on the P1P for a Black Series figure and just kept trying to see what if I could get it perfect, honestly it's not bad at 0.06, there is loss of the smallest details (same details are just barely visible in resin) but that's to be expected. Will be messing around with it some more this weekend, from what I've recognized as a pain point thus far are the overhangs, especially on the underside if there are any, like on a dome for example (that's with it resting on a full bed of supports). I think splitting models in half and printing them split side on the bed is likely the best way to do it.
I have an X1 Carbon.
For some things it is great, but the only time I tried a figure the results were bad enough for me not try again!
I have been printing various WW2 tanks for gaming. Generally these come out pretty useable with a reasonable print time. Fine for on table use where you are not looking at them close up (and my painting is a bigger issue for close up than the quality of the mini).
Problem I do find is overhangs. Even using support and playing with the speeds they at best look awful with the filament drooping down. Not sure what to try with the settings to improve this.
That said, a resin printer is on my shopping list after Christmas for minis, and I will use the Bambu printer what what it is good at (multi colour relatively flat prints)
as someone who wants to print some of those models on my minifactory having the resin printer be the only choice i'm left wonder how to do that then? From what i have heard is you must wear gloves and a mask and have ventilation is that true?
Very much so.
I kinda wished in these FDM reviews, you would take some time to try testing them with specifically terrain. The Printmini's modular shipping container is printable on both Resin and FDM printers. It's a decent size, but still having some smaller detailing like rivets and bracing. I feels like it would make a good benchmarch for comparasons.
There’s really no value in testing print quality on FDM printers. The second you do you invite arguments of “waghhhh you can get better if you change these settings” I just like to focus on user experience with the machines
I’m dying 😂 after thinking printing minis on my Bambu x1 would be a waste of time, I finally randomly came across a video that made me interested in the possibility. I just came from Danny’s video (first video I’d ever seen from him) that was made 5 years ago and wanted to see if there was as an updated video on the X1. Typed it in the search only to find you’d made one 4 days ago!! I just started into the d&d/mini hobby within the past few weeks and found your channel around that time. Anyways, that timing just tickled me!!
I find that the filament matters also. The Inland PLA+ seems to produce supports that are easier to remove than the Bambu basic PLA.
ever thought of printing abs and smoothing with acetone?
Was there any way to decrease the print time by decreasing the infill? Looks pretty hefty the way you have it!
I just sold my Saturn 2 and mercury xs setup as after 2 years i just hate the mess resin causes and the post processing is a pain. I just have my Neptune 3 max and P1S. I follow Fat dragon studios as Tom is great at doing minis on fdm
Printed a couple of mini's on my P1X without playing with the settings and they were great without sanding or other polishing techniques. Thicker paints (Vallejo) helped a lot. Speedpaint was not a good idea.
Finally someone recognising the deep agony we feel towards the fact that Danny is missing
Is it really better to get the one without the fan? I thought you needed to connect the cables to the new hot end?
As someone considering getting into this hobby, the detail and comparatively short time with resin printing is amazing, but it seems a LOT more involved (liquid resin, harsh cleaners, fumes, UV curing cabinets, drip trays/bibs, hazardous waste disposal, etc.) than FDM. Then I watched this video. Seriously...a week to print a mini?!?! Whew, that's a long time. I'm not particularly impatient either, but that's a lot more than I was expecting. Makes me wonder if all the toxic, goopy BS with the resin printer isn't actually preferable. Maybe I missed it, but did you address fumes with the X1 and how it compares to resin printing?
I have no idea why it took a week, I printed a 50mm high mini at 0.10mm layer height and it took 1hour and 15mins on my P1S with a 0.4 nozzle and looked great for FDM.
Hello. I soo at the begining that you have all the bambu printers, i want to buy a bambu printer and I don't know if is there a big difrence in printing betwen x1c and p1s. Can you help me decide what to chose?
I feel like there's some smoothing that could be achieved with some kind of additional mechanical motion in the layers creation process. Much like you're piping analog, there's techniques to do more than just lay a bead... That said, I'm certainly not in a position to r&d such a feature. Even vibration with ultrasonics could potentially do something to smooth layer lines if the temp and material velocity is accounted for(pardon me, in an ultrasonic tech and I apply my experiences to random stuff from time to time.😂)...
Hmmm... 🤔
08:21 duuude the warping on the right corner, btw too much infill. That's why it took so long and it's not a stress or technical model, so 10% infill would be enough.
When I saw what resin could do with minis after printing stuff with fff/fdm for several years, I knew instantly that it was game over.
So I am relatively new to this hobby, and had my Carbon X1 for about a month now, and the one thing that has been driving me nuts is my Aoleon The Martian Girl character can’t print on it without major fails. I have tried everything I can think of and have been hitting a brick wall. The support filament doesn’t work properly and when using a separate support filament the printer creates more filament ‘poop’ than needed to print the model itself. The printer is worse than my cats in that its “litter box” has to be emptied several times during a single print. Furthermore, it can’t do rounded organic shapes well without things like speghetifying or layer lines and if you try ironing like I did, it ended up melting the entire print head enclosure and clogging the nozzle. It was a nightmare project for me that ended in misery. And I’m now at the age where I just don’t have the patience for dealing with crap anymore. I expect things to basically just work, because life is too short.
My favorite part is where the guy with a 4 year old Ender 3 is making printing miniatures look easy 🤣 12:10
Didn’t people use to coat their 3D prints in nail polish? This was way back In early 3D printing when layer lines were a far bigger issue.
Tried doing multicolor minis with the .2mm nozzle but kept having jams from what I’m guessing are flow rate issues. Gonna try to go back to it at some point, but for now I’ve just been printing tiles.
Were you still using the .2 nozzle for the buildings? six days seems excessive especially on a Bambu machine. From the video it looks like you could have used a .4 or .6 without much if any loss of detail and way less infill.
I wish some of you designers would tell people what actual settings you use in your slicer to get such perfect models!
Bros litteraly addicted to bambu. . .
Just curious what Filament you recommend to use for 3D printing the models on FDM machines
I stick with PLA, i make props and models and this is easy mode for me
i print 6mm (full spectrum dominance, specifically) scale minis, scaled up to 133% (so the math stays right) on my p1p w/ .2mm head with 10% gyroid infill and otherwise default settings and they turn out excellent.
Hello everyone. I am a 3D modeler and I recently bought my first resin printer to start a business of Art Toys and large-sized figures (15 - 20 cm). A few days later I had to return it because I don't know if I'm allergic to the resin but the fumes it released burned my eyes and lungs (even with protection and ventilation). My question is... My figures and art toys are cartoon style, since they are large in size, could I get good quality with these bambulab printers? I can't afford to buy the X1c, could I use a cheaper bambulab model? Which one would you recommend? Lately I see a lot of people using the A1 mini, is it better quality as the work surface is smaller? Thank you and greetings.
Can you add in the extra time resin takes to clean and prep into the FDM comparison?
It’s the messiness more than anything. It can take longer to prep an FDM part for paint if that’s what you are looking at doing
I've been trying to improve minis on my Bambu P1S, I just lack the experience and knowledge to pull it off though.
My brother's really into minis and painting them, so I'm trying to provide half decent models, but the supports are a monumental issue for me.
You should try cutting up your models so you can glue them together from pieces that are different colours
then you don't have to waste time with multiple colour prints
you just print all the parts that are the same colour for all your models in one go
then then next colour and so on
and then superglue the finished pieces together into a multicolor print
you can even split the print between fdm and resin
if a specific portion needs more detail
I don't think layer lines will ever be fully removed as it's just a byproduct of the process.
Do you have a Creality K1 to make a video showing how to print a miniature using nozzle 0.2?
You can smoth your prints what you do is either lightly paint on resin on the model and cure it or, use Bondo filler and sand it smooth or use primer that also fills in the layer lines
You can print the miniatures in ABS with the 60 micron layer resolution and do vapor smoothing, which makes it look like an actually resin print with glossyness
Softens all the sharp edges too though
I am more familiar with the P1 series. But the difference in the nozzel configurations is not just the fan. It is also the Thermister and heater. And you probably want 2 of those for swapping back and forth. (Plus they are a bit fiddly to swap)
it's all within the same component you get from Bambu tho.
@@FauxHammer yes, but swapping the fan, thermister and heater between two hotends is fiddly and requires new thermal grease on every swap. If you plan to do it once and never go back, fine, but if you plan to ever go back, it's not a huge amount extra to get it with the electronics already installed. I have a 0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8 hotend all with electronics, and I regularly swap between all of them depending on what I want to print.
@@tehhamstah yeah I'm starting to realise this as more people comment. It's not clear on the site
I own the primal hounds bits and I'm planning on doing an experiment of printing them in ABS then using a gentle vapor smoothing on them.
Tomb of 3d Printed Horrors has a lot of stuff on FDM minis, and he uses an A1. I just got into it, but I'm pretty sure he's got profiles on there.
Rock on Warhammer! looking forward to my own test when my bambu A1 comes. I miss Danny too
Any prints yet?
@@Anathema0420 I ended up not getting the A1 or any other new printer
have you tried a spray gloss finish?
Have you tried polymakers polysmooth? Or looked at epoxy smoothing
I have t, I should look. From what I have seen though, vapours also soften sharp details
I would recommend use a 0.4 nozzle for something like terrain.
Also Titans
I can’t believe I’ve learned so much for free.
Humanity isn’t dead by a long shot
0:51 I'm at the starting point right now. I bought an X1C first. Received my A1 mini today because I wanted to experience using it (and a gift for my mom). I'm already thinking of buying another AMS, but I might end up getting the P1S Combo instead. Insanely good quality printers.
The only gripe I have is EVERY SINGLE COLOR being out of stock almost ALWAYS besides white and black. I am seriously considering making a bot to scrape the site and automatically place orders at this point when 4+ colors I want are available.
I NEED ALL THE FILAMENTS
You want all.the filament, you only need a couple colors though lol.
@@Anathema0420 Yeah I kinda got addicted and basically have every color from BL lol
I know this video is a year ago but with what metric did / do you base the x1 Carbon being "the best printer on the market" upoon?
Hyperbole
have you tried these with water soluble supports?
No. Could have a go. But so much time wasted in material changes
I love his channel as well, really miss his content.
Simple way to get rid of layer lines is to paint in ABS and Acetone vapor smooth. Do it right and it looks injection molded.
With the enclosure you should be able to print ABS no problem, it's so much easier to sand.
Also you can do vapor smoothing too
I have the anycubic kobra max and it's great...I'm still new to 3d printing and still learning how to print and learn the settings
The new Prusa XL will have less waste for colored minis, right? A lot less purging with 4 toolheads.
any updates about the profile settings?
I used the default mate.
seems you and i had the same idea , ive spent the last few weeks printing on pla+ resin prints and im using the x1 carbon and im using the resin supports and setting , im getting great results
Okay, so this may be a stupid question, but why can it purge the old color by using it as infill? I'm sure this wouldn't work with some minis, but on structures and larger minis, it seems like it might work.
It can, there’s a setting fir it now to purge to infil and purge to supports which reduces down the waste
RIP Danny/3D Printing DM. Even before his kickstarter collapsed and basically no one got anything they paid for he kind of disappeared. I think he should have kept up his videos and explained what was going on - owned it. Instead he seems to have been too afraid to explain the issues and that has drastically damaged his brand. I freakin loved his content and he was one of the people who got me into 3D printing years ago. I hope he comes back in some form or other but I kind of doubt it.
sad he's gone
@@FauxHammer I mean, he's not dead. His channel is basically dead and gone tho. I hope he's not dead.
@@ishepard2 sorry, yeah I know. yeah i found out from a mutual friend, he want back to his old career
@@FauxHammer Still makes me sad. His channel rocked.
@@ishepard2 Agreed!
hold up, are you printing supports in vase mode? is that a thing?
It looked like your infill percent setting seemed really high. I usually bump up the number of walls to 3-4 for terrain and do 5-10% infill with the rectangular pattern. Great video still! Definitely looking forward to the day FDM can really do resin quality prints easily
This is an important detail, thank you for pointing that out. Whenever I design models for printing, I also spend a lot of time thinking about where I can add voids on the model to avoid infill entirely; basically, where can this model be made hollow in such a way that it saves material and time.
Yeah, I've been wondering what happened to Danny for a while now. Even before he vanished completely, his videos have become less frequent. Possibly burnout? :/
I hope he's doing okay
Dry brushing fdm terrain works alright if you have more texture and mess it up more with clashing strokes. Makes it so you have to focus on it to see it. The more the eye has to draw towards the less it sees in the periphery.
Primer does wonders.