Tamiya acrylic flat black as a primer (it has acetone in it) then layering, followed by a enamel wash if necessary. For my 6mm kill team board/minis I'm doing the same, but I may deviate. 6mm in fdm doesn't give you much breathing room with layer lines.
Airbrush once in opposite color to fillament, mix up some miliput with water and give it about 2-3 coats of gap filler, depending on how bad the layer lines. Paint again in base coat black with airbrush, highlight main areas with a darker shadow color, then a brighter over the top as per where the light source would be. Dry brush metals and a highlight color. Paint details and edge highlight. Putty off and do specific details/glows with airbrush, re-detail what needs to be done. Clear coat/brush in some varnish to fill in cracks if need be. I like color shift rattle cans as my final layer, the sparkle/chroma change hides some of the remaining layer lines and confuses the eye.
I use a base coat coat of acrylic in a high mid tone, then paint the model all over with a darker oil paint. I remove the oil paint with a clean brush dipped in white spirit to reveal the high points. I feel this is the easiest and quickest way od doing decent tabletop minis. The great thing with oils is there's no staining.
FDM printing is the real gamechanger. Its easy. its cheap. Its fairly non-toxic. I have had great results with panel lining miniatures with Gunpla markers. It helps pushing out details more and looks very crisp on a mini that is only painted with base-colours instead of speedpaints.
As a FDM restricted person myself I very much appreciate videos like this! I've been pleasantly surprised with the level of quality FDM can do but any info i can get is appreciated. looking forward to seeing your settings, particularly for supports, I do have issues with scarring when removing these...
Hoping to get a settings video out asap, but i do have some other stuff in the works beforehand (most of which is helping me dial those settings in anyways, so win-win) - Scarring is always a bit of an issue but I have a few workarounds that I can hopefully shed some light on once I make that video 😊 FDM restriction can be a bit annoying but its still a super fun hobby, so its great to hear of others who are happy with what your seeing/getting from FDM!
Ive found using tree supports does wonders for the overall quality of the model, and support removal. Ive got about 30+ jetbikes that have been FDM printed, and more on the way. A big part of it has been dialing in those inital layer settings, but being willing to hit your minis with some sandpaper and a torch does help. The other, number one thing? Orientation. Know how your layer lines are going to present on the model when youre printing your bits, and change the orientation of your model to support that. It helps a huge amount.
@@Painted4Combat Excellent its refreshing to see some attention being given to this form of printing considering how dismissive the general attitude is towards it. i was using a 0.2 mm nozzle but it kept getting clogged. I dont know if I can do something similar to you did with my a1 mini...
Use the "Fat Dragon Games" print profile for the A1 mini together with Sunlu Meta PLA and you will get the closest to resin-quality using FDM currently possible.
A trick I recently learned is that to get a smoother coverage on models with speed paint is to actually paint the part in speedpaint medium first and while its still wet paint on the speed paint. The medium layer needs to be fairly light, dont just glob it on, but it gives the paint extra flow and helps prevent pooling especially on flat surfaces.
@@turtlecheese8 You dont paint the model with medium. You apply a layer of medium on to the model (with flat surfaces). Than while that layer of plain medium is still wet you apply the speed paint. This process allows the speedpaint to apply and spread more evenly across flat surfaces (which is often something speedpaints struggle with). This technique allows you to avoid annoying pooling on flat surfaces. What I described is different from diluting speedpaints to achieve a different saturation, though there will inevitably be some change in saturation since this process will indeed dilute the paint somewhat. Hope that makes sense!
There are not that many videos on RUclips of people actually painting FDM printed minis, so this has been really interesting und informative to watch, especially since I'm also considering buying an FDM printer (Bambu Lab A1 Mini) for the same reasons as you! Thanks for showing your experiments! I'm definitely curious about how good FDM printed minis can look, if you paint as good as possible. Subbed, Excited to see what's coming next in your 3d printing journey 🙂
Ive been on the fence on getting resin printing, but honestly i had no idea where safe to put it and i didnt really want to deal with the resin disposal and clean up. im happy to find your channel and seeing how well fdm is doing. def will stay tuned for your other videos and maybe invest in a fdm printer
Thanks for the video. I just started with the lore of 40k a few days ago, now I want to get a printer and also print and paint miniatures. The video helped me a lot. Fortunately I have the possibility to get a resin printer. But I would also like to print miniatures with an FDM printer. I don't know anything about painting yet, so I still found the video very interesting as it gave me an insight. As I said, many thanks for that.
I've been avoiding printing minis so far as I only use FDM printers currently but, once I get a 0.2mm nozzle for my Qidi Q1 Pro, I'm going to print a bunch of minis to go with the terrain I've been printing at 0.4mm. Thanks for the tips!
When it comes to FDM minis I like to just paint them quick (mostly using speed paints over a good prime). I was impressed with how fast and effective the heavy drybrushing appeared to be. I'll have to try it myself next time I paint something similarly armoured. Thanks for sharing!
I really enjoyed this - I have a bambu A1 mini on the way and it's great to see some fdm results. One other test would be a varnish and oil wash with a dark brown, might improve the contrast on the airbrushed terminator.
Just printed a Land Raider Cusader recently in FDM on a .04mm on Elegoo 4 pro. Yes lots of line and such but tolerable and i love it and that i saved 60-80 bucks. Roughly 20 bucks (electric and material) and about 15+- hours it took to print. Ive also printed mini's and custodes jet bikes on a Neptune 2s, but i was dang surprised by how much detail it got with a .04. One day im planning on using a .02mm on it just to see what it can do. Same with the 4 pro but that'll be a while.
Thank you for this content. Just got my second printer and never ever done minis. Love the Space Marine 2 game and now I want to dive in to Warhammer Thanks again
I've been super impressed with my K1 and A1 with 0.2mm nozzles. I have been a bit lazy in the painting department and the last time I painted something was back in 4th Ed. so your videos are quite informative and appreciated. o7
maybe its just the video making it harder to see but watching the video in the background I honestly thought you where doing printed vs GW plastic until I noticed layer lines on the shoulder pads and stuff. Crazy how usable those look!
Real world examples and comparisons like this are so helpful. Learning where and when to use different techniques really opens up a lot of choice. Thank you!
Tip for speedpaints: (especially Slaughter Red, purple, green and the other thicker ones) you NEED a drop of Speedpaint medium. I was ready to throw mine into the garbage day one because I could not get the red to stop pooling and setting up to look awful. Adding a drop mixed with the paint saved EVERYTHING. If you don't have medium, a drop or two of water will suffice. Hope this helps in the future, I really wish they sold the medium in their beginner box and advertised it as such. I hope you revisit painting an FDM print in red with it watered down because I think it'll make all the difference.
For airbrushing yes it was your colour choice but also technique, Id start with a dark indigo or purple base coat then hit it with white or light sand from above in a zenithal then tint that with a transparent red, then edge highlight or very very softly drybrish white on the raised edges and airbrush just those top highlights with an orange.
I could see another method of painting FDM is leaning into the grim dark aesthetic of texture; using painting and products with micro-grains like many "rust" texture paints or even baking soda and basing rocks. You can use muck, grim, and rust to cover up any "bleh" areas and it tells a story!
Oh man I'm looking forward to that print settings and supports video. I've had some good luck with Fat Dragon Games' settings but since he is only focusing on supportless minis it'll be nice to have a dedicated resource for settings AND supports to go with them.
I now want to buy a 3d printer! I was looking into it previously but got discouraged reading about resin fumes etc. I just want more plastic to practice painting
if you are painting then i dont recommend FDM, the layer lines will show up without a massive amount of surfacer and paint which just ends up blurring details on the model.
Really love the FDM minis videos! Didn't end up watching the space marine 2 gameplay vids, I'm hoping to avoid spoilers until I can eventually get a decent video card...
This is good information to have. I have a Mars 2 Pro resin printer, but it is too small for bigger vehicles and battlesuits. I'm going to be getting a Neptune 4 Max soon, and I think i'm going to be printing tanks and what not with it.
This has inspired me to use fdm to print my space bears. These terminators look fine and will look great on the table top. Ive got space for resin printing but it just seems like a faff to deal with
Interesting! I would have thought you'd have to paint figures this size in resin. Where'd you get the files from to print these little guys, I'd like to give it a go myself
Finally a channel that shows that not everything is bamboo Lab. Friend, I love your content, and how you promote the printing of miniatures in FDM for those who say it can't be done. I have an Elegoo Neptune 4, I am a digital sculptor, and this has encouraged me to start printing my figures with a 0.2 nozzle. Until now I was printing with a 0.4 nozzle at a layer height of 0.08, in a size of twelve centimeters my figures, which is already quite high quality. But I now want to start making smaller miniatures with good quality. I wanted to ask you. ¿What is the minimum thickness that can be used with a 0.2 nozzle? and on the other ¿hand Does anything happen if I change the 0.2 nozzle for the 0.4 nozzle from time to time, depending on the print I need? ¿Is it bad to be changing so much?
I am honestly impressed by the quality of the mini. I find that I refrain from running my Sonic Mini 4K due to all the chemicals. It is good, but it is messy. I am curious about what we can get from FDM instead.
Fdm minis have come so far they are great for tt purposes. I thnk it would not be controversial to say that resin minis are better for the serious artistic painter types. Fdm is definitely getting there and i hope it continues to improve.
100%! FDM is a good option for people who cant use Resin printers, especially if those people are just D&D players or Wargamers 🙌 Resin or Plastic will always be the best option for artsy display/parade paintjobs
Awesome tips! Brand new to printing and just bought a printer. Curious for bigger FDM model prints, would it be useful to take a dremel tool or similar sanding/buffing to take out some lines before priming and painting
honestly, if youre getting started just grab like a 10 pack of really cheap synthetic brushes, these can be used for brush on primer, base coating, and painting rough areas of the model that might damage a nice brush. and then I personally use (and really enjoy) the Army Painter "Character" brush for detail and "Regiment" for larger areas.
For non-video minis I use brush on primer, does the job just the same - it just doesn't look as nice on camera because brush on primer doesn't have to be a 100% coverage coat and can look a bit patchy, so I tend to use either the airbrush or Rustoleum rattle can primer for video projects. But for anything off camera I use a single coat of Army Painter Air "Matt Grey Primer" just applied with a brush, I like the air one because its a bigger bottle and is already thinned nicely for brushing on.
Of course! happy to help 🙌 I love the army painter fanatics range, if you can get the mega set do that but otherwise pick out a few choice colors from that range, they're awesome.
Question. Do you have any videos showing how to use four different filament colors to build a DnD miniature using those four colors? Not just painting. Great videos. Thank you!
Hello again! FDM newbie here. I’m currently in the process of getting everything set up so I can start painting my stuff, so this video most certainly helps me figure out and refine what methods I’m looking to use! Printed out a company of BattleMechs (16 models total!!) as test prints and they’re currently sitting on my shelf unpainted until I get my set up operational. My white whale is currently a full 3000 point army of 30k era Space Marines (HQs, Troops w/ dedicated transports, Elites, Heavy Support, etc)…speaking of, are there any FDM friendly studios (ie studios that have stls tuned primarily towards FDM projects) you’d recommend for that match the aesthetic of the Horus Heresy line? As much as I love me some chunky 40k lads and dope Primaris dudes, my heart is currently yearning for that sweet, sweet 30k goodness. In any case, this video is great for a complete beginner like me who’s still somewhat fumbling around in the dark and is having trouble telling his ass from his elbow when it comes to getting the most outta his prints (for example, I’m still using the stock .4mm nozzle that came with my Bambu Lab P1S; I haven’t the opportunity to upgrade to a .2mm yet). All in all, this is a pretty solid reference guide!
What's your process for using spray primer in your apartment? I'm a little disappointed you skipped the priming step, I'm in a similar apartment situation as you but I'm avoiding buying spray primer as even if I wear a respirator, I can't ventilate the room I'd be spraying in.
I tend to find somewhere outside when I can ~ this is always the best option! otherwise I have to set up a table next to the door in the *most* ventilated area with a standing fan to help push the smell and particulates out said door - if that's not an option brush on primer is perfectly fine, it just doesn't look the best on camera (which I why I don't use it on my models for videos) because it often only needs to get about 80% coverage visually.
@Painted4Combat ahhh okay thank you, I have some brush on primer I'm gonna use, I'll probably have to thin it some as it's kinda chunky right now but we'll see
@@domonety8489 ofc! I have found that the big bottles of Army Painters "Air Primer" actually makes a great brush on primer (I think its literally just a thinned version of their brush on primer) nice and thin so doesn't clog anything up!
That's all well and good, but you would still need at least a little bit of ventilation that I don't have unfortunately ~ Just because the toxic fumes don't emit an odor doesn't mean they aren't there. But possibly a good option for people with a little spare space next to an always-open window 🙌
Your figures look great, no doubt about, great job! I clicked on the video to see the best smoothing method and would like to see if possible the same figure smoothed and in the same color. So we would has a base comparison. Plaes forgive me if im wrong but it also seems like your camera resolution is a bit lower when you are showing the figures
Can i ask what scale the minis you've been printing is, because I am a fan of Middle earth SBG which has models at around28mm scale and I'd image that those models would be too small for FDM printing.
The marines here are all Warhammer scale, whatever that is now-a-days (30-32mm i think) - But the Elemental and Druid i show off at the end of the video [ 13:45 ] are somewhere around 28~30mm scale (they're on 25mm bases for reference) and they still print great, matter of fact, most of the minis I print are in that range because I use them for D&D!
So what kind of differences do different primer brands/priming techniques make in terms of layer lines as well as clogging up details? I'm sure there are other solvent based solutions as well but most of those probably have the same practical issues as just resin printing in the first place, though maybe just an application of something like extra thin plastic cement on just the smooth areas before priming would help with the most obvious areas without mulching the details. Can you find any options that will tend to fill layer lines but not actual details? For instance I know a lot of prop makers/cosplayers will use different sandable primers or hell even Bondo to get a smooth finish but those are all on prints with much larger layers than what your using.
The heavy pooling is due to putting too much Speedpaint on your brush. If you do get some pooling in areas you don't want, just clean your brush and absorb the areas away with your brush.
Not sure if I missed it in one of the other videos, but are you using PLA, PETG or something else for your minis? Long term PLA is not the best choice.
![How to Print AMAZING FDM Miniatures! | A Complete Guide to FDM Minis [CHECK DESCRIPTION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UDxM9VsQrtM/mqdefault.jpg)
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What's your favorite method for painting FDM minis?
Speedpaint just to challenge myself to see how much I can get done in a specific number of time
Tamiya acrylic flat black as a primer (it has acetone in it) then layering, followed by a enamel wash if necessary. For my 6mm kill team board/minis I'm doing the same, but I may deviate. 6mm in fdm doesn't give you much breathing room with layer lines.
Airbrush once in opposite color to fillament, mix up some miliput with water and give it about 2-3 coats of gap filler, depending on how bad the layer lines. Paint again in base coat black with airbrush, highlight main areas with a darker shadow color, then a brighter over the top as per where the light source would be. Dry brush metals and a highlight color. Paint details and edge highlight. Putty off and do specific details/glows with airbrush, re-detail what needs to be done. Clear coat/brush in some varnish to fill in cracks if need be.
I like color shift rattle cans as my final layer, the sparkle/chroma change hides some of the remaining layer lines and confuses the eye.
I use a base coat coat of acrylic in a high mid tone, then paint the model all over with a darker oil paint. I remove the oil paint with a clean brush dipped in white spirit to reveal the high points. I feel this is the easiest and quickest way od doing decent tabletop minis. The great thing with oils is there's no staining.
@@Painted4Combat SlapChop and traditional base & wash.
FDM printing is the real gamechanger. Its easy. its cheap. Its fairly non-toxic.
I have had great results with panel lining miniatures with Gunpla markers. It helps pushing out details more and looks very crisp on a mini that is only painted with base-colours instead of speedpaints.
These are best FDM minis I have seen yet.
As a FDM restricted person myself I very much appreciate videos like this! I've been pleasantly surprised with the level of quality FDM can do but any info i can get is appreciated. looking forward to seeing your settings, particularly for supports, I do have issues with scarring when removing these...
Hoping to get a settings video out asap, but i do have some other stuff in the works beforehand (most of which is helping me dial those settings in anyways, so win-win) - Scarring is always a bit of an issue but I have a few workarounds that I can hopefully shed some light on once I make that video 😊
FDM restriction can be a bit annoying but its still a super fun hobby, so its great to hear of others who are happy with what your seeing/getting from FDM!
@@Painted4Combat I'm super keen for your settings video. I want to try your techniques on Battletech Minis.
Ive found using tree supports does wonders for the overall quality of the model, and support removal. Ive got about 30+ jetbikes that have been FDM printed, and more on the way. A big part of it has been dialing in those inital layer settings, but being willing to hit your minis with some sandpaper and a torch does help.
The other, number one thing? Orientation. Know how your layer lines are going to present on the model when youre printing your bits, and change the orientation of your model to support that. It helps a huge amount.
Yep! Tree supports and good orientation are half the battle
@@Painted4Combat Excellent its refreshing to see some attention being given to this form of printing considering how dismissive the general attitude is towards it. i was using a 0.2 mm nozzle but it kept getting clogged. I dont know if I can do something similar to you did with my a1 mini...
Use the "Fat Dragon Games" print profile for the A1 mini together with Sunlu Meta PLA and you will get the closest to resin-quality using FDM currently possible.
This was super helpful. I have been thinking about FDM printing minis, but have not found many examples of how people are actually painting them.
Buying a Bambu P1S this Black Friday, really excited to get painting. What a great vid
Look at the A1 mini. It's all the rage in 3D printing communities and it's on sale now for a stellar price.
A trick I recently learned is that to get a smoother coverage on models with speed paint is to actually paint the part in speedpaint medium first and while its still wet paint on the speed paint. The medium layer needs to be fairly light, dont just glob it on, but it gives the paint extra flow and helps prevent pooling especially on flat surfaces.
Ooo theres a thought! Might have to give that a go
I've never painted the model with the medium, I mix it with my speedpaint. You can change the ratios of mixes for a different saturation too.
@@turtlecheese8 You dont paint the model with medium. You apply a layer of medium on to the model (with flat surfaces). Than while that layer of plain medium is still wet you apply the speed paint. This process allows the speedpaint to apply and spread more evenly across flat surfaces (which is often something speedpaints struggle with). This technique allows you to avoid annoying pooling on flat surfaces.
What I described is different from diluting speedpaints to achieve a different saturation, though there will inevitably be some change in saturation since this process will indeed dilute the paint somewhat. Hope that makes sense!
@@antongunther3977 Huh, interesting, I'll give it a shot next time.
I've literally gotten into printing (FDM printing) instead of just being an Etsy secondary because of your videos. Keep up the great work.
Hell yeah! Always great to see people getting hands on with the hobby 😄
It looks good. Interesting how you sanded some of its surfaces.
There are not that many videos on RUclips of people actually painting FDM printed minis, so this has been really interesting und informative to watch, especially since I'm also considering buying an FDM printer (Bambu Lab A1 Mini) for the same reasons as you! Thanks for showing your experiments!
I'm definitely curious about how good FDM printed minis can look, if you paint as good as possible.
Subbed, Excited to see what's coming next in your 3d printing journey 🙂
Glad you liked it and found it helpful 🙌
Ive been on the fence on getting resin printing, but honestly i had no idea where safe to put it and i didnt really want to deal with the resin disposal and clean up. im happy to find your channel and seeing how well fdm is doing. def will stay tuned for your other videos and maybe invest in a fdm printer
Yeah, having the space to safely use a resin machine can be difficult. Always great to hear of people giving FDM a thought/chance in those situations!
I'm liking how close FDM is getting to the fidelity of Resin
Thanks for the video. I just started with the lore of 40k a few days ago, now I want to get a printer and also print and paint miniatures. The video helped me a lot. Fortunately I have the possibility to get a resin printer. But I would also like to print miniatures with an FDM printer.
I don't know anything about painting yet, so I still found the video very interesting as it gave me an insight. As I said, many thanks for that.
I've been avoiding printing minis so far as I only use FDM printers currently but, once I get a 0.2mm nozzle for my Qidi Q1 Pro, I'm going to print a bunch of minis to go with the terrain I've been printing at 0.4mm. Thanks for the tips!
Actually love this!!! Ty
Awesome video! Love to see every painting method applied to FDM to see what works best
When it comes to FDM minis I like to just paint them quick (mostly using speed paints over a good prime). I was impressed with how fast and effective the heavy drybrushing appeared to be. I'll have to try it myself next time I paint something similarly armoured. Thanks for sharing!
Really enjoying your videos on FDM printing and painting miniatures! Looking forward to your future videos on the topic!
I really enjoyed this - I have a bambu A1 mini on the way and it's great to see some fdm results. One other test would be a varnish and oil wash with a dark brown, might improve the contrast on the airbrushed terminator.
Nice video as always, quality content about FDM minis is very rare most things are just quick comparison to resin
I am now inspired to pick up the minifigure painting again. Haven't painted since the early 90s. It looks like a lot has happened.
For sure ~ From Resin & FDM 3d printing to companies like Archon Studio biting at the heels of GamesWorkshop we're a bit spoiled at the moment!
@@Painted4Combat I have just order a 3D printer bambulab A1 😎
Impeccable timing for this video! As someone who is just about to order a bambu A1, this is awesome. Subscription added!
Just printed a Land Raider Cusader recently in FDM on a .04mm on Elegoo 4 pro. Yes lots of line and such but tolerable and i love it and that i saved 60-80 bucks. Roughly 20 bucks (electric and material) and about 15+- hours it took to print.
Ive also printed mini's and custodes jet bikes on a Neptune 2s, but i was dang surprised by how much detail it got with a .04.
One day im planning on using a .02mm on it just to see what it can do. Same with the 4 pro but that'll be a while.
Thanks for doing these videos. Please keep them coming!!!
🫡
These videos are helpful with my thoughts on what kind of printer is like to get some day
Thank you for this content. Just got my second printer and never ever done minis. Love the Space Marine 2 game and now I want to dive in to Warhammer
Thanks again
Very interesting video. It would also bi nice to see all those methods applied to plastic GW miniatures...
Super informative video as a mini painter who is looking to buy an FDM printer, thanks!
Happy to help🫡
Thanks for this, it was really helpful and confidence-giving because I'd really like to start printing minis with my FDM printer.
these all look great! I've had the best luck so far doing the layering method for my FDM miniatures
I've been super impressed with my K1 and A1 with 0.2mm nozzles. I have been a bit lazy in the painting department and the last time I painted something was back in 4th Ed. so your videos are quite informative and appreciated. o7
maybe its just the video making it harder to see but watching the video in the background I honestly thought you where doing printed vs GW plastic until I noticed layer lines on the shoulder pads and stuff. Crazy how usable those look!
Great video!! I’m alittle nervous to jump into resin printing but FDM looks fantastic!! Might need to grab one!
Real world examples and comparisons like this are so helpful. Learning where and when to use different techniques really opens up a lot of choice. Thank you!
Thanks for the video big guy!!
Great stuff!
Thanks!
Great looking minis. Thanks for the content on how to paint FDM minis. Looking forward to more!
Tip for speedpaints: (especially Slaughter Red, purple, green and the other thicker ones) you NEED a drop of Speedpaint medium. I was ready to throw mine into the garbage day one because I could not get the red to stop pooling and setting up to look awful. Adding a drop mixed with the paint saved EVERYTHING. If you don't have medium, a drop or two of water will suffice. Hope this helps in the future, I really wish they sold the medium in their beginner box and advertised it as such. I hope you revisit painting an FDM print in red with it watered down because I think it'll make all the difference.
For airbrushing yes it was your colour choice but also technique, Id start with a dark indigo or purple base coat then hit it with white or light sand from above in a zenithal then tint that with a transparent red, then edge highlight or very very softly drybrish white on the raised edges and airbrush just those top highlights with an orange.
Useful, informative and entertaining. Nice work
Cool comparison, thanks!
Great looking figures amazing that it is FDM printed.
Great vid worth my subscription 👍 keep up the good work
I could see another method of painting FDM is leaning into the grim dark aesthetic of texture; using painting and products with micro-grains like many "rust" texture paints or even baking soda and basing rocks. You can use muck, grim, and rust to cover up any "bleh" areas and it tells a story!
Thank you for this content. You are helping me with my painting!
Awesome! Keep it up 🙌
its here! 3 weeks waiting for this was worth it..
great video!
Great results. I am not bothered by layer lines - I cannot see them when looking at the table.
can't wait for your orca profile to be shared!!!
I long for the day when I can achieve even a modicum of the brush control you have. Nice job!
First time watching your videos and i must say FDM miniatures has me interested! Great video you have my sub!
Oh man I'm looking forward to that print settings and supports video. I've had some good luck with Fat Dragon Games' settings but since he is only focusing on supportless minis it'll be nice to have a dedicated resource for settings AND supports to go with them.
I now want to buy a 3d printer! I was looking into it previously but got discouraged reading about resin fumes etc.
I just want more plastic to practice painting
if you are painting then i dont recommend FDM, the layer lines will show up without a massive amount of surfacer and paint which just ends up blurring details on the model.
Really love the FDM minis videos! Didn't end up watching the space marine 2 gameplay vids, I'm hoping to avoid spoilers until I can eventually get a decent video card...
Thanks for keeping up with the videos! ~ Space Marine 2 is awesome, im sure you'll have a blast once you get the chance to play
It be cool to see how the speed paint looks using the slap chop method
Waiting to hear about the Orca slicer. I have printed some minis with Cura and I'm looking into getting more details shown.
I'd be curious to know what settings you use - those minis came out far crisper than anything I've managed so far.
Liked and subbed. Just about to buy the Bambu A1 mini and as I’m new to 3D printing (and 40K/mini’s) this video was very informative
Awesome! I hope you love the new printer, i've heard nothing but good things about them
as someone who just doesnt want the hassle of resin, thank you. for empower us FDM's to make some decent minis.
This is good information to have. I have a Mars 2 Pro resin printer, but it is too small for bigger vehicles and battlesuits.
I'm going to be getting a Neptune 4 Max soon, and I think i'm going to be printing tanks and what not with it.
I brush on a spray primer and it does a good amount. I just read review saying it could leave brush strocks.
Beautiful painting 😍😍
looking forward to ur settings and how to support minis on fdm :)
This is great! I have an FDM for miniatures and Im always looking for tips.
Excellent!
Great Vid!
This has inspired me to use fdm to print my space bears. These terminators look fine and will look great on the table top. Ive got space for resin printing but it just seems like a faff to deal with
Interesting! I would have thought you'd have to paint figures this size in resin. Where'd you get the files from to print these little guys, I'd like to give it a go myself
I have a Creality Ender 3 in the box still because I was worried I'd never actually be able to make minis, but this looks great!
Great work!
Looks great, I really need to try this will have to put a 0.2mm nozzle on my Christmas list :)
I highly recommend it! makes all the difference
Cool video.
Subscribed for future content.
Commented for the algorithm 😎
😎
Finally a channel that shows that not everything is bamboo Lab.
Friend, I love your content, and how you promote the printing of miniatures in FDM for those who say it can't be done.
I have an Elegoo Neptune 4, I am a digital sculptor, and this has encouraged me to start printing my figures with a 0.2 nozzle.
Until now I was printing with a 0.4 nozzle at a layer height of 0.08, in a size of twelve centimeters my figures, which is already quite high quality.
But I now want to start making smaller miniatures with good quality. I wanted to ask you.
¿What is the minimum thickness that can be used with a 0.2 nozzle? and on the other
¿hand Does anything happen if I change the 0.2 nozzle for the 0.4 nozzle from time to time, depending on the print I need?
¿Is it bad to be changing so much?
I am honestly impressed by the quality of the mini. I find that I refrain from running my Sonic Mini 4K due to all the chemicals. It is good, but it is messy. I am curious about what we can get from FDM instead.
Fdm minis have come so far they are great for tt purposes.
I thnk it would not be controversial to say that resin minis are better for the serious artistic painter types. Fdm is definitely getting there and i hope it continues to improve.
100%! FDM is a good option for people who cant use Resin printers, especially if those people are just D&D players or Wargamers 🙌 Resin or Plastic will always be the best option for artsy display/parade paintjobs
great!
FDM minis for the WIN!
Awesome tips! Brand new to printing and just bought a printer.
Curious for bigger FDM model prints, would it be useful to take a dremel tool or similar sanding/buffing to take out some lines before priming and painting
I just got my Bambu A1 mini and want to try some mini's, what kind of paint/brushes do you recommend (for layering) ?
honestly, if youre getting started just grab like a 10 pack of really cheap synthetic brushes, these can be used for brush on primer, base coating, and painting rough areas of the model that might damage a nice brush. and then I personally use (and really enjoy) the Army Painter "Character" brush for detail and "Regiment" for larger areas.
@Painted4Combat Thx! Do you paint the primer or use a spray?
For non-video minis I use brush on primer, does the job just the same - it just doesn't look as nice on camera because brush on primer doesn't have to be a 100% coverage coat and can look a bit patchy, so I tend to use either the airbrush or Rustoleum rattle can primer for video projects. But for anything off camera I use a single coat of Army Painter Air "Matt Grey Primer" just applied with a brush, I like the air one because its a bigger bottle and is already thinned nicely for brushing on.
@@Painted4Combat Thank you so much. Your video's are also very helpfull . If i can ask one last question, any specific paint you recommend?
Of course! happy to help 🙌 I love the army painter fanatics range, if you can get the mega set do that but otherwise pick out a few choice colors from that range, they're awesome.
Damn dude, those are tabletop quality. You mentioned settings for orca. What does orca provide that cura cannot?
Orca has MUCH better support generation (easier removal, more options, accurate paint-on supports) and is generally a nicer experience in my opinion!
Question. Do you have any videos showing how to use four different filament colors to build a DnD miniature using those four colors? Not just painting. Great videos. Thank you!
Lookin forward for your 0.2 nozzle parameters, I'd like to replicate this quality!
Keep printing!
Hello again! FDM newbie here. I’m currently in the process of getting everything set up so I can start painting my stuff, so this video most certainly helps me figure out and refine what methods I’m looking to use! Printed out a company of BattleMechs (16 models total!!) as test prints and they’re currently sitting on my shelf unpainted until I get my set up operational.
My white whale is currently a full 3000 point army of 30k era Space Marines (HQs, Troops w/ dedicated transports, Elites, Heavy Support, etc)…speaking of, are there any FDM friendly studios (ie studios that have stls tuned primarily towards FDM projects) you’d recommend for that match the aesthetic of the Horus Heresy line? As much as I love me some chunky 40k lads and dope Primaris dudes, my heart is currently yearning for that sweet, sweet 30k goodness.
In any case, this video is great for a complete beginner like me who’s still somewhat fumbling around in the dark and is having trouble telling his ass from his elbow when it comes to getting the most outta his prints (for example, I’m still using the stock .4mm nozzle that came with my Bambu Lab P1S; I haven’t the opportunity to upgrade to a .2mm yet).
All in all, this is a pretty solid reference guide!
You should try some filler primer for cars and see if that smooths them out a bit.
What's your process for using spray primer in your apartment? I'm a little disappointed you skipped the priming step, I'm in a similar apartment situation as you but I'm avoiding buying spray primer as even if I wear a respirator, I can't ventilate the room I'd be spraying in.
I tend to find somewhere outside when I can ~ this is always the best option! otherwise I have to set up a table next to the door in the *most* ventilated area with a standing fan to help push the smell and particulates out said door - if that's not an option brush on primer is perfectly fine, it just doesn't look the best on camera (which I why I don't use it on my models for videos) because it often only needs to get about 80% coverage visually.
@Painted4Combat ahhh okay thank you, I have some brush on primer I'm gonna use, I'll probably have to thin it some as it's kinda chunky right now but we'll see
@@domonety8489 ofc! I have found that the big bottles of Army Painters "Air Primer" actually makes a great brush on primer (I think its literally just a thinned version of their brush on primer) nice and thin so doesn't clog anything up!
These look amazing! Not having much luck using a .2 mm on my Prusa MK3, though 😭
Nice! Where did you get the stls from? I'd love to try this!
If you use anycubic water washable resin there is no smell so it's ideal for small enclosed spaces
That's all well and good, but you would still need at least a little bit of ventilation that I don't have unfortunately ~ Just because the toxic fumes don't emit an odor doesn't mean they aren't there.
But possibly a good option for people with a little spare space next to an always-open window 🙌
Hi from Brazil, I have a Ender 3 with 2mm nozzle
blue painters tape might have pulled paint cause you did not let it dry. had a similar problem
100% 😅
Your figures look great, no doubt about, great job! I clicked on the video to see the best smoothing method and would like to see if possible the same figure smoothed and in the same color. So we would has a base comparison. Plaes forgive me if im wrong but it also seems like your camera resolution is a bit lower when you are showing the figures
great vid.
what printer do u used to prin theese ?
Elegoo neptune 3 pro!
Can i ask what scale the minis you've been printing is, because I am a fan of Middle earth SBG which has models at around28mm scale and I'd image that those models would be too small for FDM printing.
The marines here are all Warhammer scale, whatever that is now-a-days (30-32mm i think) - But the Elemental and Druid i show off at the end of the video [ 13:45 ] are somewhere around 28~30mm scale (they're on 25mm bases for reference) and they still print great, matter of fact, most of the minis I print are in that range because I use them for D&D!
@@Painted4Combat Wow that's really good to hear, thank you.
So what kind of differences do different primer brands/priming techniques make in terms of layer lines as well as clogging up details? I'm sure there are other solvent based solutions as well but most of those probably have the same practical issues as just resin printing in the first place, though maybe just an application of something like extra thin plastic cement on just the smooth areas before priming would help with the most obvious areas without mulching the details. Can you find any options that will tend to fill layer lines but not actual details? For instance I know a lot of prop makers/cosplayers will use different sandable primers or hell even Bondo to get a smooth finish but those are all on prints with much larger layers than what your using.
The heavy pooling is due to putting too much Speedpaint on your brush. If you do get some pooling in areas you don't want, just clean your brush and absorb the areas away with your brush.
Good to know! 🙌
Not sure if I missed it in one of the other videos, but are you using PLA, PETG or something else for your minis? Long term PLA is not the best choice.
Try cell shading, probably will go with the texture