If you have the ability to print multi-material, print your fdm mini's with petg supports. You can have them snug right up to the PLA and use the highest density for the interface layer. They will come right off, super clean. You can reverse it and use PLA supports on a PETG model as well - or PETG with ABS if you are crazy. PETG doesn't stick very well to anything but PETG. Using this, you can get some pretty acceptable FDM mini's if you don't want to deal with the resin mess.
I'd suggest giving PVA support a try instead, it's water soluble so after the print is done you just put the whole model in a water bath for some hours. You can support any detail as much as you like, all it adds is time for it to dissolve. It's quite pricey though, at something around 6x the price of a bulk deal on PLA, but you can always do the multiple material support trick where the base of the tree support is PLA and then it swaps to PVA for the last couple of layers before it touches the model.
I print fdm minis with my Bambu a1, and i have found that custom settings can get better results than what was shown here without the hassle with the supports. Manually painting on your supports only where needed makes a drastic difference when it comes to support scars and easy removal.
You can make supports thinner and walls of them thinner too. I've been doing it for years and have great results with FDM. Hanging parts are not a concern at all. Recently showcased what I achieved in shorts and in a separate vid, give it a look if you're interested
Great video! Just a quick note. If you do go with resin, make sure you use all of the proper protection (nitrile gloves, proper eye wear, respirator). People underestimate how toxic resin is in it's liquid form. It can actually go through your skin and cause chronic health problems.
First time I'm watching one of your videos, and I love the totally truthful, no nonsense take on printing minis. I can get slightly better results than you with my printer, but I'm still not totally happy, and am thinking about moving to resin. You had some great info, and answered some of my questions. Thanks!
Thank you for this. I am thinking about purchasing a Bambu Labs A1 printer for models around the 9-12" size such like Spider-man and other Marvel characters. However, I am finding it difficult to find information on such a topic. Resin printing is far too involved and not at all an attractive option at this point. I simply wonder how well an FDM printer will work when printing such models. Any advice would be greatly appreciated or video example would be even better.
Great video!!! I have been FDM printing for a few years, supporting my scale RC habit. I have just upgraded from a CR10 to a P1S (the CR10 is being converted to a laser engraver/cutter). I am EXTREMELY impressed with the P1S, but sadly, it still cannot really match the detail of a resin printer. I look at getting a resin printer as my logical next step, but lack a space with the necessary ventilation to make it safe.
Interested to hear your take on multicolor printing. I recently gave up on the one I built and went back to plain IDX 2-color. I just didn't use it enough to justify the hassle
I have a Bambu Lab A1. I don’t use multiple colors often but I really like that when a spool runs out of filament it automatically continues using another spool assuming it’s the same as what ran out of
Great video. You can get even better results than shown with FDM, but it can take hours of tuning. You have to tune per filament as well. It's amazing how affordable and high quality both technologies have become!
3d printing for a few years now and appreciate how you presented this information. I wish that you were doing this video format back then. Well done and SUBBED.
a little tip regarding multimaterial prints, you can use the same pla for the supports and use petg just for the support interface :) this save alot of time and filament.
Hi, thanls for the video. Strings on fdm models may appear if filament is not dry enough. I had this problem too. Strings disappeared since I placed filament to dry box.
I've been trying to print minis on my A1 with .2mm nozzle. trying to tweak the supports. With the .4mm nozzle, the supports come right off. With the .2mm nozzle, they won't come off at all. When I get home from work, I'm going to try to increase the distance between the supports and the print and try to find a sweet spot. Is there anything else that I could try to fix these issues? Would under extruding help with the problem, as it may be over extruding a little causing it to stick to the supports more? My models look great when they are done printing (can barely tell they were done on fdm, it's just the dang supports ruining that part of the model (.2mm nozzle, .08 layer height)
Hi i am a newbie come to 3D printing ... i got the same problem with FMD and i though is my printer problem ( having a cheap printer) with so call bad print... now i know ... will try to get a 0.2 nozzle and try printing my minis again. thank for the information on this .
I found the organic supports come off easier in most cases, also another u tuber mentioned Petg as a support material comes off pla easier they don't stick too well....n doesn't leave poc marks...I haven't tried it yet though.....but the organic seems not too bad, unless you leave your print to cool all night that makes supports hard to remove too...
I just printed a bunch of 40k grots and the detail is just as good as my store bought ones. and that was on crappy $20 CAD PLA. Also, At work we used to only see a 3D printer go down the belt for my county (pop. around 450K) maybe every 2 weeks to a month or more, then Bamboo came a few months back, and we've seen atleast 20 a DAY!!! and not the mini's the BIG ONES! for over 3 months now. people are making 3D printing farms with these as they're super easy to use and the fact there are more of them then any other being sold parts will always be available. even 3rd party ones have popped up now.
As someone who is relatively new to 3D printing, the issue I'm finding is supports (both normal and tree) break off smaller parts of the mini. I love my A1 but printing minis has been a nightmare.
with the right settings and a good finish fdm looks nearly like resin(the cheaper ones tho) there are other creators in YT who managed to do this with the A1,normal pla and finish spray or similar
FDM is great for models larger than 5 inches, especially if they can be broken up and printed without supports, but the resin is superior in every way to smaller models. It’s not even comparable.
@jaynewman6420 you won't really get health problems from your printer so long as you have some ventilation, its the cleaning of prints with IPA or ethenol that increases VOCs by 1000X so you need a mask and strong ventilation if you are doing it indoors.
The answer isn't CAN it, it's SHOULD it. And the answer is no. No it shouldn't. FDM is wonderful for rapid prototyping and making large items. Resin is for professional looking miniatures.
If you have the ability to print multi-material, print your fdm mini's with petg supports. You can have them snug right up to the PLA and use the highest density for the interface layer. They will come right off, super clean. You can reverse it and use PLA supports on a PETG model as well - or PETG with ABS if you are crazy. PETG doesn't stick very well to anything but PETG. Using this, you can get some pretty acceptable FDM mini's if you don't want to deal with the resin mess.
I'd suggest giving PVA support a try instead, it's water soluble so after the print is done you just put the whole model in a water bath for some hours. You can support any detail as much as you like, all it adds is time for it to dissolve.
It's quite pricey though, at something around 6x the price of a bulk deal on PLA, but you can always do the multiple material support trick where the base of the tree support is PLA and then it swaps to PVA for the last couple of layers before it touches the model.
I print fdm minis with my Bambu a1, and i have found that custom settings can get better results than what was shown here without the hassle with the supports. Manually painting on your supports only where needed makes a drastic difference when it comes to support scars and easy removal.
You can make supports thinner and walls of them thinner too. I've been doing it for years and have great results with FDM. Hanging parts are not a concern at all. Recently showcased what I achieved in shorts and in a separate vid, give it a look if you're interested
I think her results are more settings and related to user rather than what the Printer is capable of
Thanks for the video it was fantastic to see someone make exactly what I'm trying to decide on and with great info! Cheers
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Just a quick note. If you do go with resin, make sure you use all of the proper protection (nitrile gloves, proper eye wear, respirator). People underestimate how toxic resin is in it's liquid form. It can actually go through your skin and cause chronic health problems.
You are so right!
3:10 did you watch the video??
@@Chaz16 Even the used paper towels need to be cured, which is annoying but important.
First time I'm watching one of your videos, and I love the totally truthful, no nonsense take on printing minis. I can get slightly better results than you with my printer, but I'm still not totally happy, and am thinking about moving to resin. You had some great info, and answered some of my questions. Thanks!
I've seen better results from other RUclipsrs as well -- I'm sure if I put more time into it I could get something nicer.
Good, thorough coverage of the information. Well done Denise.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this. I am thinking about purchasing a Bambu Labs A1 printer for models around the 9-12" size such like Spider-man and other Marvel characters. However, I am finding it difficult to find information on such a topic. Resin printing is far too involved and not at all an attractive option at this point. I simply wonder how well an FDM printer will work when printing such models. Any advice would be greatly appreciated or video example would be even better.
Great video!!! I have been FDM printing for a few years, supporting my scale RC habit. I have just upgraded from a CR10 to a P1S (the CR10 is being converted to a laser engraver/cutter). I am EXTREMELY impressed with the P1S, but sadly, it still cannot really match the detail of a resin printer. I look at getting a resin printer as my logical next step, but lack a space with the necessary ventilation to make it safe.
Thanks for the video. I'm new to printing and can really appreciate your side by side review.
Hi Denise.... great video, thank you.
Greetings from Holland
Thanks for watching!
Interested to hear your take on multicolor printing. I recently gave up on the one I built and went back to plain IDX 2-color. I just didn't use it enough to justify the hassle
I have a Bambu Lab A1. I don’t use multiple colors often but I really like that when a spool runs out of filament it automatically continues using another spool assuming it’s the same as what ran out of
Thank you, that was exactly what i needed, as a beginner.
Great video. You can get even better results than shown with FDM, but it can take hours of tuning. You have to tune per filament as well. It's amazing how affordable and high quality both technologies have become!
3d printing for a few years now and appreciate how you presented this information. I wish that you were doing this video format back then. Well done and SUBBED.
You have a really nice approach - thanks. I think multicolour printing with an AMS would be interesting to see. Thanks again!
Another great video. Thanks for all the advice!
Thanks for stopping by!
Some really good stuff here.
I need to watch again to take notes.
Take a look at Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors (Fat Dragon Games). He also has tunings on the A1 mini (and A1) that make them incredibly clean!
What a great video, thank you for posting it!
a little tip regarding multimaterial prints, you can use the same pla for the supports and use petg just for the support interface :) this save alot of time and filament.
Very informative, thank you!
Hi, thanls for the video. Strings on fdm models may appear if filament is not dry enough.
I had this problem too. Strings disappeared since I placed filament to dry box.
topic starts 7:30
I've been trying to print minis on my A1 with .2mm nozzle. trying to tweak the supports. With the .4mm nozzle, the supports come right off. With the .2mm nozzle, they won't come off at all. When I get home from work, I'm going to try to increase the distance between the supports and the print and try to find a sweet spot.
Is there anything else that I could try to fix these issues? Would under extruding help with the problem, as it may be over extruding a little causing it to stick to the supports more?
My models look great when they are done printing (can barely tell they were done on fdm, it's just the dang supports ruining that part of the model (.2mm nozzle, .08 layer height)
Hi i am a newbie come to 3D printing ... i got the same problem with FMD and i though is my printer problem ( having a cheap printer) with so call bad print... now i know ... will try to get a 0.2 nozzle and try printing my minis again. thank for the information on this .
Once ya get the hang of resin, it’s not too bad. Got to get a good workflow going and ventilation to the outdoors.
I found the organic supports come off easier in most cases, also another u tuber mentioned Petg as a support material comes off pla easier they don't stick too well....n doesn't leave poc marks...I haven't tried it yet though.....but the organic seems not too bad, unless you leave your print to cool all night that makes supports hard to remove too...
7:22 bro I'm sold I never knew I really need a 3d printer xD
Great video, thank you!
I just printed a bunch of 40k grots and the detail is just as good as my store bought ones. and that was on crappy $20 CAD PLA. Also, At work we used to only see a 3D printer go down the belt for my county (pop. around 450K) maybe every 2 weeks to a month or more, then Bamboo came a few months back, and we've seen atleast 20 a DAY!!! and not the mini's the BIG ONES! for over 3 months now. people are making 3D printing farms with these as they're super easy to use and the fact there are more of them then any other being sold parts will always be available. even 3rd party ones have popped up now.
Great video. Thanks for the info.
Great video!
As someone who is relatively new to 3D printing, the issue I'm finding is supports (both normal and tree) break off smaller parts of the mini. I love my A1 but printing minis has been a nightmare.
I have a 4k resin printer, but its so finicky and fails often, if FDM printers are getting better, its tempting to switch.
Looks like the MX4250 designs could work really well for FDM printing due to the low detail!
with the right settings and a good finish fdm looks nearly like resin(the cheaper ones tho) there are other creators in YT who managed to do this with the A1,normal pla and finish spray or similar
Did you try using a 0.2 nozzle on your A1mini? You can get better results that way.
I did. I think I need to slow it down more?
Great video!
Thanks! Are you going to 3D Printopia? Make sure you come by and say hi!
@@stldenise yes, I'll see you there!
No water based resin nowdays ?
Can you do an s1 pro review? they dont get enough love.
Great idea! I have one that’s Klippered & hooked up to a nozzle cam. It’s my all time favorite Ender.
@@stldenise 💯percent agree. I have a farm built on them, they need almost nothing except a diamondback nozzle
FDM is great for models larger than 5 inches, especially if they can be broken up and printed without supports, but the resin is superior in every way to smaller models. It’s not even comparable.
Definitely, but people keep trying to do make it work with FDM.
Yes, the resin is better, but not all of us have a resin printer, and the health problems that go with it.
@jaynewman6420 you won't really get health problems from your printer so long as you have some ventilation, its the cleaning of prints with IPA or ethenol that increases VOCs by 1000X so you need a mask and strong ventilation if you are doing it indoors.
Love it
Yay!
hell yeah it can :) comment for the comment Gods
I prefer Eldritch Foundry for custom figures.
pewter, but yeah, i played with those too
A "Hottie" with a Great Hobbie ❤
Walker Kevin Lopez Mary Hernandez Richard
if this girl runs amd hw its a crime 😂
pba. pretty sure those figurines were made of cast tin. its a lead alloy. not lead.
Can it print minis? Yes.
Will they look like crap? Yes.
The answer isn't CAN it, it's SHOULD it. And the answer is no. No it shouldn't. FDM is wonderful for rapid prototyping and making large items. Resin is for professional looking miniatures.
God, you have a squeaky voice. FDM only for trrain