Can't emphasize the fuel commentary enough. I always tell customers to put a little 100 octane in at the track as insurance on their pump gas cars. Whether its fuel starvation, hot temps, or some other unseen circumstance, a little extra octane is cheap insurance. Also, the effects of g-forces on fuel system performance. There are stock cars that will starve the fuel pump if you run them on race tires (Honda S2000 under 1/2 a tank for example). Recently had a customer with a 4-figure hp V8 setup. Didn't have issues for a long time until he made a full throttle acceleration pass on sticky tires with 1/8 of a tank of fuel in a stock fuel tank. The end result was ugly. First (and probably last) time he ever made a full hit on low fuel.
A surge tank or hydromat fuel sock from Holly can help from g forces when in a long sweeping turn like some tracks have to keep fuel constantly feed the fuel without starvation.
Once again, Mike is dropping dimes. I feel like I can build engines for a living after watching his instructional videos. Keep ‘em’ coming Mike, so bummed you guys got rid of the B13.
This man responds to mostly all the comments asking questions. Thats the nicest thing ive ever seen. I appreciate it being able to look at comments and learn more. Cooling def helps. I have a full size rad but only had space for one fan that fits half of it. This makes me want to look into a way to get another fan next to it
If you’re not experiencing cooling issues at low speeds or while idling, there’s no need for another rad fan. At higher speeds, the natural airflow far exceeds what a fan can provide. In fact, a fan can actually impede airflow at high speed.
@TranceFur yes sir. I was dealing with overheat conditions I stop and go traffic in the summer. I added another spal fan to the front of the radiator as a pusher that I have on its own switch and problem solved.
Autopsy video sounds GREAT! I'm always most confused about what happened first when the big end of the rod is still on the crank without significant bearing damage, the piston is completely destroyed, and the beam of the rod is broken. In that case it's super hard for me to know if the rod bent first, thus breaking out the bottom of the piston via sideloading, or if the bottom of the piston basically pulled apart, thus letting the small end and wrist pin clang around in the bore until the rod gets bent and broken... Anything you can offer to assist with that sort of problem solving would be fantastic.
It kinda depends on what the parts look like. Could be detonation, exceeding the rods or pistons strength, could be sticking in the bore due to bad clearances, heat or detonation or a combination of those. Clogged injector causing all of the above if the other cylinders are fine
Over heated my Honda 2.3. Lower hose clamp broke. It shut off, no damage it seems. Had good luck with synthetic valvoline, only got the synthetic high mileage as they were out of the regular Dino juice. Engine stopped burning oil. Guessing it cleaned the rings enough to start working properly. Amsoil won project farm oil tests. I always questioned their marketing as oil is still black magic. But that made me see them in a different light to try them.
I upgrade my cooling system even in my daily driven cars. Here in Oklahoma, no telling when you're gonna be stuck on a smoking hot highway in a traffic jam. And I always install a fan that can be turned on by a switch, cuz I don't trust the computer to not overheat or act up. Better safe than sorry. Operating temp is always best, but cooler is always better than hotter. Same could be said about exhaust as well. A good flowing exhaust disperses heat better, a long with having an air intake that sits outside the engine bay. Breathes better, keeps air temps down, etc. And unless you're going with a monster sized intake tube, it won't lean out enough to matter
Thank you so much for this informative video. I have a Whipple supercharged 2020 mustang GT (stock internals) running only on 660whp at 11psi and people have told me I’ve gone overboard spending on preventative measures (low temp thermostat, interchiller, engine and trans oil coolers, two oil separators). Next step is getting a bigger fuel system for e85. The car is used for 30-130mph roll races once per month at a local legal track. I change oil every 3000 miles and check fluid levels obsessive ly. I just don’t ever want to experience an engine failure.
@@CoyoteAUS master tech buddy at Ford is seeing TONS of failed 5.0 rings, and some heads, on stock tune/street driving. They use really weak low tension rings to reduce friction for emissions. It's especially common on the 3rd gen 5.0s
Couldn't agree more about finding good tuners. I did business with one of the big ones for Chevy years back and he started telling me all kinds of things that didn't make sense. But with what little I did understand in the data logs I saw the engine pulling huge amounts of timing. Turns out they were doing exactly that, pumping the boost, advancing the timing and damping the knock control system. I ended up taking the hptuners license I paid for and doing it myself. It took years of reading and learning and more school to really start understanding things front to back. One thing I've learned is most companies just talk peak power... Rarely is that peak sustainable. The things that made my car faster were not at the peak of the power curve.... They are on both sides of it. I didn't end up with their peak power numbers, but I did end up with a long lived engine that is incredibly fun to drive.
I wonder what it took to get this guy on camera. Seems like he isn't all that comfortable. I am happy you convinced him somehow bc he clearly knows enough that we should be listening to him. Thanks for the info on race gas. I use it thinking I may be protecting my engine from knock, and it sounds like that guess is right. I even use the 108 octane variety out of a big can and I don't care if it does make my sparkplugs orange after enough use. Better that than blowing my tuned turbo engine.
Well explained. I put a 5 stage dry sump on my 1000+ HP 6-71 blown nitrous Chevy I6 292 in my 53 Chevy 3100. I think it was money well spent. Thank you for your time.
Thanks for the wonderful video! I didn't know about the spark plug heat range. There is a myth I want you to debunk, my dad has a thing about putting certain spark plug brands in certain cars, for example when I wanted to get spark plugs for my Chevy (relatively modern early 00s vehicle) there were some Bosch ones I was looking at getting, but he swayed against that, and pushed me to get something that goes with GM motors like AC Delcos, as he had some horror stories from friends of his back in the 70s-80s of people putting foreign plugs in American cars. Is this perhaps due to having wrong heat range on the plugs? I want to figure out if this is just mythos or any other actual reason why he may think that, he's not inexperienced with cars either, he built and tuned many motors in his time back in the 70s-80s
Thanks for the response! So other than just avoiding bad plugs in general like the bosch ones you mentioned, is there any considerations as to what brand plugs to use with what brand motors, or is it just a myth
My c7z is a 19 manual with factory large oil cooler. I installed the lg cooling kit that moves the heat exchanger from in front of the radiator to the sides like a zr1. I installed an automatic radiator cause they're slightly bigger than the manual radiators. Factory the car did okay but I could over heat it pretty quick maybe 10 hard minutes of track. Now I can run in 100 plus and not over heat it. The question is on my c7z my coolant temp gets to about 220 max maybe 225 but oil gets to 270 to 275 after say 2 flying laps at cota with ambient of 80. Fast pace like 2:17ish laps on street tires. Time Attack car so usually no more than 2 flyers. Do you think that okay for that car? Not a lot I can do to help oil temps. Factory oil cooler is big. It's the cooler that the auto trans cars use for the trans. I could direct air to it better but might hurt aero performance. Big splitter, big wing car. I think you know the car if this Mike that sees this comment. On my channel if not. I use jdp Motorsports to tune my race car. Very smart and huge amount of success in racing with gm, ford, and dodge but specifically gm gen 5 lt and ls cars
I know that Vettes always run scary oil temps. I think that is why they sometimes have bearing problems. When we race LS motors we keep the oil temps below 250. You might consider running a windage tray and crank scraper as well as a different pan.
I think another implicit benefit of a pan is greater oil capacity so that it will absorb heat better. Remember that the most expensive pans from say Stefs or even some fancy ones from Moroso are a thick aluminum and/or finned aluminum. Compared to plastic or sheetmetal, the pan is thick aluminum and will carry heat away for you.
@motoiq windage tray and crank scraper with a dry sump? Stock lt4 bottom end hate to open it up. Any other options you can think of? I know adding power is going to make it worse
Is it the OEM two-stage dry sump? If so then I think it might help. Maybe adding a bigger motorsports-style tank with an AOS in the top? Even bigger oil cooler? Improve airflow to the cooler?
i always use all the safeties available on the ecu, rather miss a day at track than build a new engine everyone pushing fuel pumps but they don't put a better electrical system in which i also seen ,guy ran 2 pumps and 2 secondary when the secondary pumps kicked in the charge voltage would drop to 11v also don't discount a transmission and diff coolers always a must if you will be running high loads through the driveline
ive blown one engine, it was summer 34celsius warm and pipe from my radiator broke and blew up minutes later after hitting rabbit. It was too late when i saw fluid temp skyrocket
Warning; I have see a lot of people START overheating after installing a too-thick radiator. It blocks too much flow and cools worse. A thin efficient radiator does more than you think. The thick radiator "upgrade" is not always an upgrade.
I've also seen that happen, but after further autopsy it's usually related to high rpm cavitating the stock plastic water pumps so they can't flow well enough to begin with.
Damn Mike, you finally convinced me that oil temperature is important beyond just keeping oil pressure where you want it. I had never thought about the temperatures of the bearings. Thank you!
Great video, thank you! Heat, knock and oil for anyone that wants the TLDR version - but highly recommend listening to all the possible issues and solutions.
Funny enough, when I bought my 2005 nissan 350z, it overheated because the cooling fans died. I didn't do anything crazy just crushed around 60 for a bit no turbos or anything special tune just a ram air intake what could've worn on the engine the car was shut off after I saw the overfill tank pressurized and leaking coolant the stock radiator didn't blow just the overfill tank I did tow the car home but drove it on the tow truck flat bed ever since then I upgraded the radiator and cooling fans to Mishimoto plus I changed the thermostat with a new oem one not some cheap duaralast from autozone even with a upgraded radiator and fans it still almost over heated on a hot day driving in the city until I got on the highway that car run sk hot not sure why my only guess is the radiator isn't getting alot of air flow through the grille so I took the license plate off as well for more airflow
Thanks, for all the knowledge. I hope you have a wonderful new year, and hope for more content in the next year. Will you ever present any information on Fa20 platform or even an accusump and oil starvation..much appreciated
@@motoiq What have you found or done-- if anything-- regarding the oil sloshing/starvation issues? I've heard the cup cars have a 1+ quart overfill and a deeper pan.
I run my drift car on LPG gas 1. Higher octane number than pump gas 2. Won't lean out with race tires on pulling Gs (its pressurised gas) 3. 2x cheaper than pump gas 4. Ecological (like I fucking care) Its a viable option if you live in EU
@@motoiq Propably between 40-70 kg (but I'm also 30kg of gasoline lighter, since I only need it for cold starts and idle) but it doesn't bother me becouse it's placed below the trunk (where the spare wheel should be) so it doesn't mess with the overall balance of the E39 as much as one would think (it's barely noticable)
Excellent information well said .on my 2.1 stroker that uses e20 from time to time i change oil every 2000 miles at max with Motul oil . Some thing else also a good insurance is a good after market ecu . I always say good build motor with good brains and good tuner you sorted .
MotoIq and Mike, have you all done a segment on the L15C/B Civic yet? I'd like to see your technical perspective on the 11th Gen Civic or the 1.5L engine. Thank you for all the info over the last 3 decades.
So detonation is caused by adibatic heating of fuel air mixture under compression. Octane rating is an indication of detonation resistance when mixture is chemically correct. Too lean and the problems begin. Pre ignition is typically caused by carbon deposits igniting mixture and backfiring through the induction system. Both bad for engine. Keep engine cool and clean, don’t force too much air into engine with out adequate fuel mixture and corrected timing. Engine stays way happier under load and will have more volumetric efficiency thus more torque and power output. Brmmmmm
Run thicker oil and stay on top of things like hoses. Leaks on these cars are a killer when they get older. They also tend to burn oil even when they are in good shape so watch the oil level.
@@motoiq I use castrol edge maximum performance in every car I have and oddly as it may seam my oil in the m62tu stays topped off since I got it at 131k and it’s at 149k I’ve always just poured about two cap full or three caps full on the chain every weak and with it being FBO and stage 3 tuned with cams it’s very good on not eating up oil or coolant I guess I just got a gem of one because there really are only a few that have no issues
@@motoiq I’ve done 4 oil changes on it and full fluids changes transfer case diff and trans everything since I got it and it drives brand new I use it at a mount fury road and slide it like a e39 dry or wet these things are very under appreciated forsure
Engine autopsy sounds like a great idea, something I had to do for many years as 'service manager' when customers expected manufacturer to pick up the bill or manufacturers denied valid claims. I'm not an engineer (couldn't do the math) and doubt you have experience of this but may find it interesting? 1974 ~77, Honda 250/360 motorcycle had a severe issue with oil feed to cam bearings leading to destroyed cylinder heads at sustained high rpm riding. (as little as 40miles at 70mph/8,000rpm- red-line 9,500 to 10,500 (from the handbook, 'do not operate at extended periods in red zone') They were aware of the problem but most bikes made it out of warranty plus a totally new design was being prepared for 1978. Anyway, long and short of it, around 1987 I figured out modification to oiling system and have since posted details on various vintage Honda sites. The point I'm eventually getting to, full synthetic oil. Running Shell Rotella full synthetic 5W/30 not only prevents any damage, rocker arms running direct on cam actually get polished into a better surface after as little as 2,000 miles (I have a friend with very little mechanical aptitude and even less mechanical sympathy who breaks stuff)
I have a JZA80 Supra with a 2JZGTE from a JZS161 in it. I am only running about 14psi through a gen 2 Precision 6262 making about 410-420rwhp on 98ron (Australian premium) My bottom end is stock, a weird thing is I have never had really any blow by and I have a catch can I have never had to empty in 6 years. I have put a endo cam into the intake manifold to have a look at the PCV outlet and there is very little oil trace. I know my PCV is good and have direct hoses from the cam covers. Should I be worried or is this a miracle engine? Edit: I should add, I have lots of other mods however stock untouched ecu that has been fine with it and gets a flat 12.5AFR when it comes on boost from about 2.5k to redline. I also have a oil cooler with a Mocul sandwich plate that has a built in oil thermostat with bypass. I took it to a supra club dyno day and the tuner couldn't believe how well the factory ecu had it under control with the stock 440cc injectors.
Feels like "I do cars" and you could do a fun colab on an autopsy. As a gen 2 BRZ owner, I think I'll add an Accusump as part of my "insurance policy". Though I love less sticky tires, so I will likely not have the issues people speak of. Thank you for sharing so much!
Am new to your channel.....but I like the information your given out......I want to turbo my honda for a daily drive but I don't know where to start as in to bring it to am in south carolina Summerville to be precise
Mike reminds us of the ripple effect, over and over and over, LOL! The amount of info and great advice in this video is overwhelming. 29:00 It's why I trust him... Mike really knows how to squash the "urge to modify" in me, lol. Hats off to all the passionate car enthusiast at there that place the order for that large turbo kit or set of MT drag radials, hahaha. You are about to go down that rabbit hole! ;)
muchas gracias sus videos han sido muy útiles soy de costa Rica me a pasado 2 veces que miSR20 se a querido detonar por un tema de computadora no le tenia una programable sino que le usaba un chip Troyano a ora voy a empezar a usar una programable algún numero de Whatssap donde puede escribirles o llamar para ver posibles compras de productos gracias.
Dave from cryotune arvada Colorado he has tuned cars for pikes peak hill climb very nice guy my 05 legacy gt feels happy not just faster love mike on moto iq I learn so much
Learned the hard way with the fuel part of this video. Ran fine for Dyno pulls. Hit the dunes and after about 5 mins of pushing it hard a fuel injector died and leaned out a cylinder. Currently doing a rebuild 😊
Great video. Just one thing to add, not all light ends in fuel "light off easier." We blend a lot of butane into fuel during the winter months, but its actually high in octane. Pentane is a little heavier but the octane qualities aren't nearly as good.
I don't race anymore, but I still for drive for a living. I'm a motor courier in Colorado. I just wanted to say thank you for all the valuable information.
Great oil flow and coolers Great water flow and coolers Change your fluids Strong head studs (ARP recommended) Don't put more power than your parts can handle. For more power... Go billet Go forged Add sleeves Spend more $$$
I had my built k20c1 predetonate from what I believe were NGK ruthenium spark plugs that the strap broke into the engine. It may not have been colder plugs. Maybe I should of stuck with one step colder iridium plugs.
I always recommend quality parts even if they cost more. It is better then buying cheap and having an issue later down the line or upgrading a few years later and wasting hundreds to thousands of dollars and small upgrades when you plan on upgrading later down the line.
Here in Sweden my Oil temp on my 2015 Camaro SS almost never goes above 100c (212F) so im safe. but then im not using it for track use just sporty driving. A few questions At what Oil temp is it safe to hit it? i heard that Oil should reach 100c (212F) before it can "clean" the engine and remove build ups. also i know that you can look at a spark plug and see how the engine is doing Im sure you know more about it. can you make a video of that?
It’s very important to cover the basic of protecting an engine. As you said, cooling is the key. One good example from Subaru is EJ20R EJ20H EJ206 EJ208. It’s sequential twin turbo and the primary turbo is always boosting. The engine gets hot all the time and cause pings and spin the big end bearing. Especially cylinder number 4. Because it’s hot, oil goes much faster. That’s why so many EJ20 twin turbo died. But if you take care of cooling and fuel routing, you can make it much more reliable
OMG NO NO Royal purple , not for these engines. Best oil is LiquiMoly 20/40 antifriction, running 28.5mpg on 2008 Wrx at 65mph highway No burn count at 3200 miles oil change. That royal purple 5 qt spun my #4 @ 53K miles on engine
It depends on the anti freeze and if you are running on the track, most tracks don't allow anti freeze. I recommend redline super cool pre-mixed for street cars, in our extensive testing it runs significantly cooler than any of the 12 or so types we tested.
I agree with Synthetics usually being better but it’s more about the additive package of the oil some of the best race oils are made from mineral oil base stocks like VR1 Brad Penn and Driven
Most people think engines are indestructible and just flog the crap out of them every day! Everything has its limits and especially after mods. Detonation is a huge factor for engine longevity….people will bolt on mods but rarely re-tune an engine to accommodate the mods…
Can't emphasize the fuel commentary enough. I always tell customers to put a little 100 octane in at the track as insurance on their pump gas cars. Whether its fuel starvation, hot temps, or some other unseen circumstance, a little extra octane is cheap insurance. Also, the effects of g-forces on fuel system performance. There are stock cars that will starve the fuel pump if you run them on race tires (Honda S2000 under 1/2 a tank for example). Recently had a customer with a 4-figure hp V8 setup. Didn't have issues for a long time until he made a full throttle acceleration pass on sticky tires with 1/8 of a tank of fuel in a stock fuel tank. The end result was ugly. First (and probably last) time he ever made a full hit on low fuel.
The above is true info from a true calibrator!
Fuel slosh around corners is annoying as hell. Even doing some pulls at a low tank has a risk on its own
Thanks for this comment man I’ll keep this in mind
Church is one of the best tuners I know and the local one we use almost exclusively.
A surge tank or hydromat fuel sock from Holly can help from g forces when in a long sweeping turn like some tracks have to keep fuel constantly feed the fuel without starvation.
Once again, Mike is dropping dimes. I feel like I can build engines for a living after watching his instructional videos. Keep ‘em’ coming Mike, so bummed you guys got rid of the B13.
As a subi owner I greatly appreciate this video
If anything Upgrading your coolant system should be one of your fist mods. Relatively easy to do and basically no downsides.
“Don’t overheat!” Amen to that. I’m tempted to install the largest oil and trans coolers but my engine only makes 185hp…..
This man responds to mostly all the comments asking questions. Thats the nicest thing ive ever seen. I appreciate it being able to look at comments and learn more. Cooling def helps. I have a full size rad but only had space for one fan that fits half of it. This makes me want to look into a way to get another fan next to it
If you’re not experiencing cooling issues at low speeds or while idling, there’s no need for another rad fan. At higher speeds, the natural airflow far exceeds what a fan can provide. In fact, a fan can actually impede airflow at high speed.
@TranceFur yes sir. I was dealing with overheat conditions I stop and go traffic in the summer. I added another spal fan to the front of the radiator as a pusher that I have on its own switch and problem solved.
Can’t upvote this video enough, the absolute GOAT of engine knowledge! Thanks dad
Autopsy video sounds GREAT! I'm always most confused about what happened first when the big end of the rod is still on the crank without significant bearing damage, the piston is completely destroyed, and the beam of the rod is broken. In that case it's super hard for me to know if the rod bent first, thus breaking out the bottom of the piston via sideloading, or if the bottom of the piston basically pulled apart, thus letting the small end and wrist pin clang around in the bore until the rod gets bent and broken... Anything you can offer to assist with that sort of problem solving would be fantastic.
It kinda depends on what the parts look like. Could be detonation, exceeding the rods or pistons strength, could be sticking in the bore due to bad clearances, heat or detonation or a combination of those. Clogged injector causing all of the above if the other cylinders are fine
First thing I do when watching Mike’s video..is survey the cars in the background. They always have gems just chilling in back. Like that Em1 👍
I do that too Lol
A very good informative video, definitely would like to see a autopsy of a blown motor.
Check out Humble Mechanic; he's done some teardowns of blown engines over the years.
"I Do Cars" as well
@@NotAMotoVlog @nickpappas4133 hundreds of engine teardowns
Over heated my Honda 2.3. Lower hose clamp broke. It shut off, no damage it seems.
Had good luck with synthetic valvoline, only got the synthetic high mileage as they were out of the regular Dino juice. Engine stopped burning oil. Guessing it cleaned the rings enough to start working properly.
Amsoil won project farm oil tests. I always questioned their marketing as oil is still black magic. But that made me see them in a different light to try them.
I upgrade my cooling system even in my daily driven cars. Here in Oklahoma, no telling when you're gonna be stuck on a smoking hot highway in a traffic jam. And I always install a fan that can be turned on by a switch, cuz I don't trust the computer to not overheat or act up. Better safe than sorry. Operating temp is always best, but cooler is always better than hotter. Same could be said about exhaust as well. A good flowing exhaust disperses heat better, a long with having an air intake that sits outside the engine bay. Breathes better, keeps air temps down, etc. And unless you're going with a monster sized intake tube, it won't lean out enough to matter
I love Mike's low pulse matter of fact delivery.
Thank you so much for this informative video. I have a Whipple supercharged 2020 mustang GT (stock internals) running only on 660whp at 11psi and people have told me I’ve gone overboard spending on preventative measures (low temp thermostat, interchiller, engine and trans oil coolers, two oil separators). Next step is getting a bigger fuel system for e85. The car is used for 30-130mph roll races once per month at a local legal track. I change oil every 3000 miles and check fluid levels obsessive ly. I just don’t ever want to experience an engine failure.
Low tension rings have left the chat :'(
Racing radiator? Higher output water pump/oil pump with frequent oil changes etc tune has to be perfect and set for safety
@@tri00azerath so basically should upgrade rods and pistons/rings?
@@CoyoteAUS master tech buddy at Ford is seeing TONS of failed 5.0 rings, and some heads, on stock tune/street driving. They use really weak low tension rings to reduce friction for emissions. It's especially common on the 3rd gen 5.0s
@@tri00azerath mm, not good, thanks for the heads up. Hopefully lower temps that I’m running with helps prolong their use by date.
Another great video from Mike & the MotoIQ team! Happy new year!
Thank you so much for these videos!! I blew my first engine. After these videos I’m confident I won’t make the same mistakes! 🤙🏽💯
Good 👍 ASS job Brudda ✌.
Thank 👍 you!
You have a lot of good information and obviously you know exactly what you are doing.
I'll be listening sir ,thank you for sharing your knowledge
Couldn't agree more about finding good tuners.
I did business with one of the big ones for Chevy years back and he started telling me all kinds of things that didn't make sense. But with what little I did understand in the data logs I saw the engine pulling huge amounts of timing.
Turns out they were doing exactly that, pumping the boost, advancing the timing and damping the knock control system.
I ended up taking the hptuners license I paid for and doing it myself. It took years of reading and learning and more school to really start understanding things front to back. One thing I've learned is most companies just talk peak power... Rarely is that peak sustainable. The things that made my car faster were not at the peak of the power curve.... They are on both sides of it.
I didn't end up with their peak power numbers, but I did end up with a long lived engine that is incredibly fun to drive.
Also 13:21 installed colder plugs last year too
I wonder what it took to get this guy on camera. Seems like he isn't all that comfortable. I am happy you convinced him somehow bc he clearly knows enough that we should be listening to him. Thanks for the info on race gas. I use it thinking I may be protecting my engine from knock, and it sounds like that guess is right. I even use the 108 octane variety out of a big can and I don't care if it does make my sparkplugs orange after enough use. Better that than blowing my tuned turbo engine.
Well explained. I put a 5 stage dry sump on my 1000+ HP 6-71 blown nitrous Chevy I6 292 in my 53 Chevy 3100. I think it was money well spent. Thank you for your time.
Older BMWs are not unreliable just watch the video he explains it all. A engine is a Engine.
I like this guy
Thanks for the wonderful video! I didn't know about the spark plug heat range. There is a myth I want you to debunk, my dad has a thing about putting certain spark plug brands in certain cars, for example when I wanted to get spark plugs for my Chevy (relatively modern early 00s vehicle) there were some Bosch ones I was looking at getting, but he swayed against that, and pushed me to get something that goes with GM motors like AC Delcos, as he had some horror stories from friends of his back in the 70s-80s of people putting foreign plugs in American cars. Is this perhaps due to having wrong heat range on the plugs? I want to figure out if this is just mythos or any other actual reason why he may think that, he's not inexperienced with cars either, he built and tuned many motors in his time back in the 70s-80s
I know the Bosch platinum plugs they used to sell with the electrode flush with the porcelain were junk.
Thanks for the response! So other than just avoiding bad plugs in general like the bosch ones you mentioned, is there any considerations as to what brand plugs to use with what brand motors, or is it just a myth
I would say myth except perhaps the steps of the heat ranges could match up with certain motors better.
@@motoiqnext video should be on spark plugs. How to read them, gaps, and heat ranges. Copper vs iridium vs platinum
Good idea!
My c7z is a 19 manual with factory large oil cooler. I installed the lg cooling kit that moves the heat exchanger from in front of the radiator to the sides like a zr1. I installed an automatic radiator cause they're slightly bigger than the manual radiators. Factory the car did okay but I could over heat it pretty quick maybe 10 hard minutes of track. Now I can run in 100 plus and not over heat it.
The question is on my c7z my coolant temp gets to about 220 max maybe 225 but oil gets to 270 to 275 after say 2 flying laps at cota with ambient of 80. Fast pace like 2:17ish laps on street tires. Time Attack car so usually no more than 2 flyers. Do you think that okay for that car? Not a lot I can do to help oil temps. Factory oil cooler is big. It's the cooler that the auto trans cars use for the trans. I could direct air to it better but might hurt aero performance. Big splitter, big wing car. I think you know the car if this Mike that sees this comment. On my channel if not.
I use jdp Motorsports to tune my race car. Very smart and huge amount of success in racing with gm, ford, and dodge but specifically gm gen 5 lt and ls cars
I know that Vettes always run scary oil temps. I think that is why they sometimes have bearing problems. When we race LS motors we keep the oil temps below 250. You might consider running a windage tray and crank scraper as well as a different pan.
I think another implicit benefit of a pan is greater oil capacity so that it will absorb heat better. Remember that the most expensive pans from say Stefs or even some fancy ones from Moroso are a thick aluminum and/or finned aluminum. Compared to plastic or sheetmetal, the pan is thick aluminum and will carry heat away for you.
@motoiq windage tray and crank scraper with a dry sump? Stock lt4 bottom end hate to open it up. Any other options you can think of? I know adding power is going to make it worse
Is it the OEM two-stage dry sump? If so then I think it might help. Maybe adding a bigger motorsports-style tank with an AOS in the top? Even bigger oil cooler? Improve airflow to the cooler?
I could (have?) listen to Mike talk about engines for hours. Great videos!
Man love this guy calm energy, could be cursing me out for some reason but will sound the same way he's speaking now. Lol
* me listening to this in my stock 2012 Mazda3 * WRITE THAT DOWN WRITE THAT DOWN
i always use all the safeties available on the ecu, rather miss a day at track than build a new engine
everyone pushing fuel pumps but they don't put a better electrical system in which i also seen ,guy ran 2 pumps and 2 secondary when the secondary pumps kicked in the charge voltage would drop to 11v
also don't discount a transmission and diff coolers always a must if you will be running high loads through the driveline
That is true about power to the pumps, I should have said something as that is a common issue too.
ive blown one engine, it was summer 34celsius warm and pipe from my radiator broke and blew up minutes later after hitting rabbit. It was too late when i saw fluid temp skyrocket
Amazing and very helpful content MK! 👏🏾 👏🏾👏🏾
Warning; I have see a lot of people START overheating after installing a too-thick radiator. It blocks too much flow and cools worse. A thin efficient radiator does more than you think. The thick radiator "upgrade" is not always an upgrade.
I've also seen that happen, but after further autopsy it's usually related to high rpm cavitating the stock plastic water pumps so they can't flow well enough to begin with.
I adore this guy. I wish he was my friend to hang out with, go for fast drives with and eat fried chicken with.
I love fried chicken
There are 2 big problems. #1 engine builders that think they know what they're doing. #2 the idiot whose foot is on the pedals.😅
I Freaking love this guy extremely informative and smiles the entire time!
Damn Mike, you finally convinced me that oil temperature is important beyond just keeping oil pressure where you want it. I had never thought about the temperatures of the bearings. Thank you!
What oil cooler brand is that seems meaty and i like it. Thanks
Koyo
Keep em coming mike
Great video, thank you! Heat, knock and oil for anyone that wants the TLDR version - but highly recommend listening to all the possible issues and solutions.
I wish I could download all of his knowledge to my brain.
Funny enough, when I bought my 2005 nissan 350z, it overheated because the cooling fans died. I didn't do anything crazy just crushed around 60 for a bit no turbos or anything special tune just a ram air intake what could've worn on the engine the car was shut off after I saw the overfill tank pressurized and leaking coolant the stock radiator didn't blow just the overfill tank I did tow the car home but drove it on the tow truck flat bed ever since then I upgraded the radiator and cooling fans to Mishimoto plus I changed the thermostat with a new oem one not some cheap duaralast from autozone even with a upgraded radiator and fans it still almost over heated on a hot day driving in the city until I got on the highway that car run sk hot not sure why my only guess is the radiator isn't getting alot of air flow through the grille so I took the license plate off as well for more airflow
Thanks, for all the knowledge. I hope you have a wonderful new year, and hope for more content in the next year. Will you ever present any information on Fa20 platform or even an accusump and oil starvation..much appreciated
FA20 is coming.
@@motoiqDoes that also include the fa24? I know the gr86 guys are dealing with engine failures due to oil starvation.
@@thegirthquake8574 we have built a few stock FA24's for the 86 cup guys, but those engines have to remain stock as per the rules.
@@motoiq What have you found or done-- if anything-- regarding the oil sloshing/starvation issues? I've heard the cup cars have a 1+ quart overfill and a deeper pan.
No those engines are completely stock. No mods are allowed. We have just rebuilt them to stock spec using 100% stock parts.
Don’t set your hp goals too high on a build it wears out the motor faster.
I run my drift car on LPG gas
1. Higher octane number than pump gas
2. Won't lean out with race tires on pulling Gs (its pressurised gas)
3. 2x cheaper than pump gas
4. Ecological (like I fucking care)
Its a viable option if you live in EU
How heavy is the tank?
@@motoiq Propably between 40-70 kg (but I'm also 30kg of gasoline lighter, since I only need it for cold starts and idle) but it doesn't bother me becouse it's placed below the trunk (where the spare wheel should be) so it doesn't mess with the overall balance of the E39 as much as one would think (it's barely noticable)
Love your videos, MIke! Now I know how to prevent the blowing up of my new motor, Lol!!
This is great! Is it possible to build a diesel engine viable for track use?
Yes, Early 90's BMW and Mercedes-Benz used turbo diesel engines
Yes, look up Darkside Developments here on RUclips. VW/Audi tdi guys with BMW diesel videos too.
Yes, look at Audi and the LMP cars!
Of course, but I don’t recommend it.
Black smoke racing has a Mercedes drift car with a lot of power.
This guy knows a lot of shit.. or atleast a lot more than me lol
Excellent information well said .on my 2.1 stroker that uses e20 from time to time i change oil every 2000 miles at max with Motul oil . Some thing else also a good insurance is a good after market ecu . I always say good build motor with good brains and good tuner you sorted .
MotoIq and Mike, have you all done a segment on the L15C/B Civic yet? I'd like to see your technical perspective on the 11th Gen Civic or the 1.5L engine. Thank you for all the info over the last 3 decades.
I would like to but we haven't seen one yet.
So detonation is caused by adibatic heating of fuel air mixture under compression. Octane rating is an indication of detonation resistance when mixture is chemically correct. Too lean and the problems begin.
Pre ignition is typically caused by carbon deposits igniting mixture and backfiring through the induction system. Both bad for engine. Keep engine cool and clean, don’t force too much air into engine with out adequate fuel mixture and corrected timing. Engine stays way happier under load and will have more volumetric efficiency thus more torque and power output. Brmmmmm
What are your thoughts on how keep a e39 m62tu vanos motor reliable after being FBO and Tuned ?
Spec oil with 3500 to 5 k changes.
Run thicker oil and stay on top of things like hoses. Leaks on these cars are a killer when they get older. They also tend to burn oil even when they are in good shape so watch the oil level.
@@motoiq I use castrol edge maximum performance in every car I have and oddly as it may seam my oil in the m62tu stays topped off since I got it at 131k and it’s at 149k I’ve always just poured about two cap full or three caps full on the chain every weak and with it being FBO and stage 3 tuned with cams it’s very good on not eating up oil or coolant I guess I just got a gem of one because there really are only a few that have no issues
@@motoiq I’ve done 4 oil changes on it and full fluids changes transfer case diff and trans everything since I got it and it drives brand new I use it at a mount fury road and slide it like a e39 dry or wet these things are very under appreciated forsure
So much valueable information! Thank you MotoIq!
Use Pennzoil ultra platinum in my Corolla GR. Excellent oil and I change it every 2500 miles. Daily driver
I need 4 ways, bud. Or at least 5 buds, way.
Fantastic information. Thank you.
Engine autopsy sounds like a great idea, something I had to do for many years as 'service manager' when customers expected manufacturer to pick up the bill or manufacturers denied valid claims.
I'm not an engineer (couldn't do the math) and doubt you have experience of this but may find it interesting?
1974 ~77, Honda 250/360 motorcycle had a severe issue with oil feed to cam bearings leading to destroyed cylinder heads at sustained high rpm riding. (as little as 40miles at 70mph/8,000rpm- red-line 9,500 to 10,500 (from the handbook, 'do not operate at extended periods in red zone')
They were aware of the problem but most bikes made it out of warranty plus a totally new design was being prepared for 1978.
Anyway, long and short of it, around 1987 I figured out modification to oiling system and have since posted details on various vintage Honda sites.
The point I'm eventually getting to, full synthetic oil.
Running Shell Rotella full synthetic 5W/30 not only prevents any damage, rocker arms running direct on cam actually get polished into a better surface after as little as 2,000 miles (I have a friend with very little mechanical aptitude and even less mechanical sympathy who breaks stuff)
I have a JZA80 Supra with a 2JZGTE from a JZS161 in it. I am only running about 14psi through a gen 2 Precision 6262 making about 410-420rwhp on 98ron (Australian premium) My bottom end is stock, a weird thing is I have never had really any blow by and I have a catch can I have never had to empty in 6 years. I have put a endo cam into the intake manifold to have a look at the PCV outlet and there is very little oil trace. I know my PCV is good and have direct hoses from the cam covers. Should I be worried or is this a miracle engine?
Edit: I should add, I have lots of other mods however stock untouched ecu that has been fine with it and gets a flat 12.5AFR when it comes on boost from about 2.5k to redline. I also have a oil cooler with a Mocul sandwich plate that has a built in oil thermostat with bypass. I took it to a supra club dyno day and the tuner couldn't believe how well the factory ecu had it under control with the stock 440cc injectors.
can you do a 3sge build video, I really enjoyed your 4age one.
when we get one in here.
Feels like "I do cars" and you could do a fun colab on an autopsy. As a gen 2 BRZ owner, I think I'll add an Accusump as part of my "insurance policy". Though I love less sticky tires, so I will likely not have the issues people speak of.
Thank you for sharing so much!
i would add the IAG pan baffle and pickup we talk about in some of our newer videos.
When I win the lottery, the first thing I will do is have Moto IQ, build a turbo engine for my Outback Wilderness.
Am new to your channel.....but I like the information your given out......I want to turbo my honda for a daily drive but I don't know where to start as in to bring it to am in south carolina Summerville to be precise
Mike reminds us of the ripple effect, over and over and over, LOL! The amount of info and great advice in this video is overwhelming. 29:00 It's why I trust him... Mike really knows how to squash the "urge to modify" in me, lol. Hats off to all the passionate car enthusiast at there that place the order for that large turbo kit or set of MT drag radials, hahaha. You are about to go down that rabbit hole! ;)
muchas gracias sus videos han sido muy útiles soy de costa Rica me a pasado 2 veces que miSR20 se a querido detonar por un tema de computadora no le tenia una programable sino que le usaba un chip Troyano a ora voy a empezar a usar una programable algún numero de Whatssap donde puede escribirles o llamar para ver posibles compras de productos gracias.
Dave from cryotune arvada Colorado he has tuned cars for pikes peak hill climb very nice guy my 05 legacy gt feels happy not just faster love mike on moto iq I learn so much
Thank you for another great video. I learned a lot.
Learned the hard way with the fuel part of this video. Ran fine for Dyno pulls. Hit the dunes and after about 5 mins of pushing it hard a fuel injector died and leaned out a cylinder. Currently doing a rebuild 😊
That would be a cool video. Show us why certain things break, how to fix them so we don't do the dumb chit again...
90's GM fuel gauge has 2 positions, full and empty, when it goes bad.
Great video. Just one thing to add, not all light ends in fuel "light off easier." We blend a lot of butane into fuel during the winter months, but its actually high in octane. Pentane is a little heavier but the octane qualities aren't nearly as good.
I don't race anymore, but I still for drive for a living. I'm a motor courier in Colorado. I just wanted to say thank you for all the valuable information.
This is gold and money in our pocket for free. Thanks！
Well said man. Free knowledge is hard to come by, especially with actual evidence and astute observation on the side.
Great oil flow and coolers
Great water flow and coolers
Change your fluids
Strong head studs (ARP recommended)
Don't put more power than your parts can handle.
For more power...
Go billet
Go forged
Add sleeves
Spend more $$$
Agree but studs are not always the best solution on aluminum blocks. See some of our engine build videos for why.
@@motoiq Oh, for sure. Great point!
Wondered why my car wasnt making full power on corners bro your a treasure trove of information thank you very much
Love you, mike!! Diamonds of knowledge. ❤🤙
I depend on good machining, assembly, well inspected or new parts, good oil and a rev limiter on my little 318
Fully built block and heads by a shop called night Motorsports after a while head gasket failure wrx ej25 motor
I had my built k20c1 predetonate from what I believe were NGK ruthenium spark plugs that the strap broke into the engine. It may not have been colder plugs. Maybe I should of stuck with one step colder iridium plugs.
yeah super common mistake
ruthenium ignites better but runs a lil hotter than iridium I think
Fully serious ruthenium plugs are a good design, just get the right heat range.
I always recommend quality parts even if they cost more. It is better then buying cheap and having an issue later down the line or upgrading a few years later and wasting hundreds to thousands of dollars and small upgrades when you plan on upgrading later down the line.
God this guy is good 😮.
Thanks for straight knowledge
3SGTE ftw its taken some solid track time with no issues. Bought an oil cooler but still haven't installed it
Here in Sweden my Oil temp on my 2015 Camaro SS almost never goes above 100c (212F) so im safe.
but then im not using it for track use just sporty driving.
A few questions
At what Oil temp is it safe to hit it?
i heard that Oil should reach 100c (212F) before it can "clean" the engine and remove build ups.
also i know that you can look at a spark plug and see how the engine is doing
Im sure you know more about it.
can you make a video of that?
Max oil temp is 250 degrees. My opinion is you need to drive enough for your oil to hit 170 or so to help keep water out of it.
My mk7 gti has 3 layers of radiators (coolant, intercooler and aircon) stacked
wow, so many tips and lessons based on real life experiences. Thank you!!!
When Mike talks, I listen! Another super informative video!
You said keep it below 230, but what should we keep it above? What’s too cold?
I would say 170
It’s very important to cover the basic of protecting an engine. As you said, cooling is the key. One good example from Subaru is EJ20R EJ20H EJ206 EJ208. It’s sequential twin turbo and the primary turbo is always boosting. The engine gets hot all the time and cause pings and spin the big end bearing. Especially cylinder number 4. Because it’s hot, oil goes much faster. That’s why so many EJ20 twin turbo died. But if you take care of cooling and fuel routing, you can make it much more reliable
This kind of informations are so worth it shouldtn be free😅😅😅
The most relaxing and informative voice in motorsport mechanics.
Super practical and informative! Thank you!
I run 10w-30 vr1 in my sti. Bought it modified...
Great video. Highly detailed with great info. 👍
I think one of the other things to mention is to actually build your engine correclty... If you're modifying it
I should have gotten into that a bit.
Firm believer of mobil one the truck and suv for my z 5 30 in the de does and one think 10 40 is better or what
Mobil 1 euro blend….look it up it’s a group 4 base stock (pao) it’s good stuff
OMG NO NO Royal purple , not for these engines. Best oil is LiquiMoly 20/40 antifriction, running 28.5mpg on 2008 Wrx at 65mph highway No burn count at 3200 miles oil change.
That royal purple 5 qt spun my #4 @ 53K miles on engine
It is probably other things that spun your bearing besides the brand. If it is a high-quality synthetic with an API rating of SP it is good oil.
What about the Anti=freeze mixture..?? Should we run a 50/50 mix, or a 70/30 mix of anti-freeze to water mixture...??
It depends on the anti freeze and if you are running on the track, most tracks don't allow anti freeze. I recommend redline super cool pre-mixed for street cars, in our extensive testing it runs significantly cooler than any of the 12 or so types we tested.
learnt so much
Just past the thermostat is good.
I agree with Synthetics usually being better but it’s more about the additive package of the oil some of the best race oils are made from mineral oil base stocks like VR1 Brad Penn and Driven
Share with your local boosted bois
Most people think engines are indestructible and just flog the crap out of them every day! Everything has its limits and especially after mods.
Detonation is a huge factor for engine longevity….people will bolt on mods but rarely re-tune an engine to accommodate the mods…
Seems like closer to 13 ways.