One other thing, a vacuum filler is a life saver. I have a Lotus Elise where there are numerous runs in the coolant system that trap air. Filling the system without it is a complete pain in the ass!
Turbulators prevent laminar flow and keep the liquid in turbulent flow. Turbulators are tuned to the cfm of the flow. Anything below the minimum cfm and the liquid will remain in laminar flow and the radiator will not cool as well.
I love the mention of electrolysis/ galvanic corrosion inside the engine. Mike, I swear if I ever have the money I'm going to send my 3SGE for you all to build. Love your content ❤
Great advice. If I may offer advice not mentioned: A mechanical clutch fan. I had done all of the mentioned tips in this video and my time attack camaro with a stout 383 would always get too hot on track. I had a popular oem electric fan setup on it and rather than spend 500+ on an insane brushless electric I simply bought a stock mechanical fan with thermal clutch. I deliberately left it unshrouded so that vortex ring state would limit hp loss at high rpm. I also went to an underdrive crank pulley. I also was able to duct the "prop wash" out of the hood quite easily. IMMEDIATELY solved my cooling issues and set new personal lap records. Just imagine what even a 3 hp electric motor looks like in size and youll realize no electric fan can really pull much air because they simply don't have enough power to do so. I saved 6 lbs off the front end of the car to boot.
@cuzz63 Yes, either they are on very high speed tracks or they are drag cars or street strip cars Come to any small to medium road course with a 900 HP car in the summer and see if it doesn't melt down. Look at all the issues the C6 zo6 was having with all of GMs engineering might behind it. Nowhere near 900 hp. There is a big difference between what works for a quarter mile run or a dyno session and what works on a race track where you run all out for 10,20,30 mins.
I remember walking into O’Reilley’s and asking for water wetter. Dude behind the counter didn’t even skip a beat and told me they didn’t carry that. I walked around the store and found it. Same dude ring me up and was like, “huh, I didn’t know we sold that.”
When I heard Sacrificial Anode it was right their you know Mike Kojima knows something about chemical engineering, Pretty cool I love proven science and engineering.
Water wetter is AWESOME. I put it in my truck that I tow with. I was staying at 230F-240F consistently pulling a trailer up the mountains in Colorado. Then I did a cooling system flush and changed the radiator and added water wetter. Never get above 220F now.
Can I mix redline watter wetter with bmw coolant, or only with redlines coolant? Also does the water wetter last at least acyearcirctwo. That's when I usually change my coolant.
@@ericsivilla4091 it says it works with ethylene and propylene glycols. So it should he fine. If you are worried about your cooling system you can do an acid-base test to determine if your coolant is breaking down.
Spent forever trying to stop my turbo miata from getting hot on the highway and what fixed it was making an air dam/duct so no air could go around the radiator and intercooler. After like 10 minutes on the highway I would have to pull over and after I swapped it it keeps it cool enough the thermostat doesn’t have to open. I made it out of the same stuff people use for signs in their yard. Like those vote for this senator/ governor ones.
Adding an under tray greatly improves radiator efficiency. Because without one high pressure air builds up into engine bay from under. And this can actually cause the radiator air flow to be so obstructed it actually reversed. Look it up. Don’t spend your fuel catching air in the front of the car. Spend it spinning the tires.
thanks for not making your videos into 5 hour cancer vlog video playlist. your videos are info packed, simple to understand, professional, has solid explanations. I cant thank u enough
Great video. We are struggling with an LS in a 350z. We added a swirl pot (Merlin Motorsport - UK), lower thermostat (Summit racing 160), higher pressure cap (Moroso 23-25) and a vented hood. It might be our radiator, so that's next. We bought an expensive Flex-A-Lite (they quit making radiators recently) so we will probably go with a Koyorad next.
A 350z is one of the cars where an air lift is a must because the radiator is so low, we have to keep sucking for about 20 min, run the car and repeat a few times.
I love watching your videos Mike! Always so easy to digest and so informative! I'm an apprentice mechanic, not much money to pay for expensive stuff ups, so thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge!
I’ve seen bro in quite a few videos about different areas and a bunch of insightful tips… I’d definitely pay him whatever he wants to build a car for me…
Man that’s so good you mentioned cavitation. My classic ford mk1 escort has a Kent 1600-1700(90tho over sized) that revs to 8000rmp. The cast aluminium coolant outlet on the head shows massive cavities in the alloy after only 1500km of hard driving. To the point I had a smaller crank pulley made. The alternator doesn’t like 8k either, so hopefully that is better now to. If we could harvest cavitations energy for say pre combustion chambers water injection charge, we might be onto something.🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀😊😊
Thanks so much Mike! I'm a 60-something guy that's only got into tracking my car in recent years and every time I'm on the track I realize some modification I've made is not right, or not enough, and beside whatever I've done, I need more! So your vids are a great help. Thanks!!
I don't know why some people think every damn video is a product advertisement. You guys want me to just stand in front of an empty table with no visual aids all the time, get real, start your own channel...
hey there@@davconelectric , you sound like an arm chair wannabe "enthusiast." If you ever actually build a car for the track you'll realize there's a LOT of junk you can buy for your car. I appreciate that Mike gives some clues on quality products. If you wanna bitch and moan about product adverts, go ahead. But I'd asy your just a troll.
I've tried to explain electrolysis to so many people in and out side of automotive instances, and people are like.....wut? So when I heard "the aluminum acts like a sacrificial anode and....gets all messed up" it reminds me of all the tiems I started to explain electrolysis and, in the moment, realize I am about to lose my audience and need to keep it simple. love Mike's explanations including both the laymen and in depth explanation for important concepts
The bleeder funnel with the lid works well with the liquid block test kits - All you need to do is cut approx 1" hole in that lid so the block test kit's tapered rubber bottom fits snuggly. Keep the coolant level in the tapered part of the funnel and use the block test kit as normal. I've gotten best results with this
This has been an excellent talk for car cooling tips for a new enthusiast like myself, understanding to tackle my problem of overheating SUV Ford Territory, after replacing its water pump. There are more to cooling system I realised and your TIPS have just blown away let say my TIP of the Iceberg"..thank you so much..
The ducting/sealing is no joke. I have this funky old Subaru GL, and because of that with an ej swap radiator has been a challenge. I put a honda half-rad in it, which is totally not adequate, at idle it won't stay cool (small pusher fan problems). But once I ducted the rad and taped up all the gaps with flashing tape, it cruises on the highway ice cold. It'll even get warm idling waiting to run at rallycross, and then get cooler over the course of the run. Related also is outflow air. If you have a big hood scoop for example, make sure it's not counter-acting the flow through the radiator, make sure your underbody is doing a good job to create that low pressure in the engine bay for the cooling air.
Thank you for the good info! I like the 230/250 rule with engine temp and oil temp. I usually get to 222/246 on track and feel like the car is near it's limit instinctually, but now I have some information to back that up.
I like how the ford FE engines in the Fairlanes and Galxies had the radiator expansion tank bolted straight to the thermostat housing above the block. Zero chance of the heads running dry due to elevation changes. There were plenty of cars during the 80s when their was a push for lower bonnet lines for reduced drag and better fuel efficiency that suffered from overheating and engine damage if the coolant level got low due to having the radiator at or not much abovethe cylinder head height, a risk that the other 98% of the population who arent petrolheads and treated their car as a simple appliance to take them from A to B everyday and didnt keep on top of maintenance.
My eclipse probably needs a bleed. Temp guage only hits 1/4 fully warmed up at idle. Driving it goes to the 1/2 mark until stopped. Ill try jacking the front up, thankyou for the advice. Also iron block and aluminum head, thankyou for the heads up.
One better than the bleeder funnel is using one of those vacuum fillers. That way I can do a leak down test then flip a valve and pretty much fill the entire coolant system from there. That a Koyo radiator and using a swirl pot and high pressure cap on the pot and I haven't had any more problems with my G overheating at trackdays. That and I put in the Z1 oil cooler and got rid of the stock oil cooler (warmer?) sandwich plate.
I totally agree with you and we use one at the shop for known difficult cars like the RSX and the Z. This funnel is something that's cheap and makes a huge difference and everyone should use one!
+1 for the vacuum fillers. The NC miata is A TOTAL PAIN to bleed. The bubbles come out when they want to, not a second sooner. I'd have to drive in 1st gear at 6000 rpm around the neighborhood to finally push everything through. (Including the funnel, raising the car, revving, holding at 5000 rpm, anything.) Vacuum fill works every time.
@@ebf1003 Heeellll nooo. 😂 I'm completely happy with my ford fusion sedan engine that makes 50 hp less. 😅 My buddy k-swapped his NB and it had so many problems I don't think he completed a track day.
First let me tell you thank you the information you supply on this particular video and other ones are excellent for people to know including myself who want to get into check weekends No so keep doing what you do really appreciate it and I will spread the word if you have any stickers that you can provide me to put on my car to help with your channel I would love to do so
99 GC8 recreational car I use a racing tstat with stock radiator and stock radiator fans. I rewired my driver fan to a stand alone power switch and the passenger side fan activates like normal it turns on when Temps get 180d.
Would love to see a video for non-racers (ie: Outback, Forester, non-turbos cars). Say "mods" that might work...AOS, upgraded hoses, bushings, lubing certain parts, battery, etc
if you want to remove overheating issues on performance builds I would recommend 2 or even 3 separate cooling system circuits running at different temps, i would add a lower temp system running at ambient/ room temps for the turbo and air to water intercooler and on extreme builds high HP, street and track a hotter temp system thermosiphon and heat pipes on the exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust housing
@@motoiq WOW your ignorant, dont assume im saying the turbo should be cold. Im saying to add a regulatory HOT cooling system for the exaust and turbo to help it heat up like the engine thermostat to regulate the temperature so its not too low or high being to high is usually the problem, gets too hot beyond the usable effective temp range to help spool up the turbo with heat
Actually do some research on how the otto cycle thermodynamics, turbomachines and exhaust pulse tuning works before you call me ignorant. You do not take energy out of the system that is driving VE. If your engine is running hot, you do not cool the exhaust but add more heat exchanger capacity for the coolant, the charge air and oil. If your exhaust is too hot and you are damaging the engine, you fix the incorrect tuning parameters that are causing it as they are also reducing your power and efficiency. You do not cool the exhaust. The only cases of cooling exhaust are in boats, for sound suppression reasons, the center sections of turbos to reduce post shutdown coking and sometimes wastegates to avoid damage to the diaphragms if they are in areas with poor air circulation. That is very limited cooling and none of these reasons are to help cool the engine.
@motoiq pretty sure we spoke about pulse timing before i corrected you and gave a good explanation lesson on pulse width modulation and high and low pressure zones, it was on a 2 stroke short video you had, i understand thermodynamics, and heat dispersion rates and thermal conductivity values, i have designed turbo systems and even rebuilt, upgraded, ported the turbo with aftermarket parts while retaining the ballance,
most important thing is the thermostat operation and overall capacity, don't add bottlenecks make sure valve is opening fully and check the opening temp to fully open temp range, install a performance thermostat, Increase the weep hole size so the valve opens more gradually, I would recommend adding a electronic bypass or cable dash mounted/electronic valve to open up flow when you start flooring the gas or before a large hill when towing as the thermostat is slow to react sometimes, make sure the radiator fan turns on when you slow down
Like I said, don't recommend things that you have never done. OEM systems have bypasses in them to ensure that the thermostat see's the engines operating temperature. The holes in thermostats are to keep air out of the engine and to make sure it's purged, even before the thermostat opens.
@motoiq @motoiq who do you think you are... WTF.. dont recommend things that have not done?!? Not only have i done this but it doesn't take a high IQ to understand the benefits, i used a Bosch electric pump and got good results, not sure why your commenting, probably shouldn't be working on vehicles if you have this terrible attitude, borderline misinformation, you didnt even mention the thermostat in your video almost all overheating issues related to the cooling system itself is thermostat, leaking or no flow, they fail after about 10 years and or alot of thermo cycling, they stop opening all the way, other not directly linked systems would be lean fuel mix, burnt exhaust valves,
If you advocate exhaust cooling systems to improve engine cooling, you don't understand engineering or how engines work. I doubt you have any real motorsports experience If you come up with multistage exhaust cooling systems to reduce engine operating temperature, I would like to see anything you have done with much success in the racing world. The thermostat is rarely the cause of overheating unless it fails. Tinkering in your home garage isn't a success. I could come up with the math proving you are wrong but it's not worth it for someone who is either a troll or clueless.
@motoiq im talking about extreme high performance engines that make 2000HP+ i have even seen 4 cylinder engines making 2000 to 3000hp and are used for circle track racing Thor racing engines they build a ridiculous amount of heat, and run them at least 1500hp, engine is basically a heater/pump, the high temp system would be for stuff like when you see the pipes going to the turbo glowing red hot in one pull on the dyno, stop the aluminum from melting
I am not aware of any circle racing class where 4 cylinders produce 2000-3000 hp. Thor engines are rated for that sort of power but as far as I know they are so far used only in time attack and drag racing. Even in that case the exhaust systems are not cooled. You are literally taking energy away from the turbine by doing this. Removing heat from the exhaust isnt going to make a difference upstream of it. Glowing red hot isnt such as big deal. Most really tuned cars glow red hot on the dyno, even street cars.
I have a 350z, so the underdriven belt doesn't affect the water pump due to the water pump being chain driven off the crank. But I have lowered temps with hood vents, header wrap, upgraded radiator, and Z1 oil pan spacer for extra oil capacity. All the small changes make a big difference, think i'll look into a swirl pot now since the car is virtually impossible to bleed lol
Been using Koyo aluminum racing radiators for years but the Australian company PWR has a track version that tests to do a better job specifically made for the track. Got one for my fk8. It costs more but it’s proven on the track.
Referring to "tucked" radiator setups with AN hoses on a dedicated track car -- Any pros/cons in cooling / coolant flow when converting from traditional rad hoses (Larger Hose I.D) to AN-hoses (Smaller Hose I.D) + fittings?
What's your thoughts on installing an electric water pump? Especially when coming off the track, wired up the high speed on the radiator fan and pump and leave it on till the temps go below150 degrees and allows the engine to be off.
So 1 bottle of Diesel Wetter Water did improve the temps in my case. Been running it for about 2 weeks now. History DETROIT Series 60 11.1L rebuilt 4 months ago, new radiator 1 month ago. It was running 10-20 degree hotter than my old leaky radiator 1 bottle of WW has drop the temps, gonna try a 2nd to see if I can get it down to run evencooler while pulling hills loaded. What I think is happening is that Wetter Water is coating the inside of the aluminum/copper radiator and fresh piston sleeves making the coolant flow faster past the new fresh rough surfaces. Honestly I really didnt expect to see any change at all but I have.
OEM's generally use those because they help with warming up the oil faster. You would need a huge one if you want to actually use it for effective cooling on track.
If it's cooled by engine coolant, it's sort of an oil heater or you are trying to exchange heat with a fluid that is almost the same temp as your target temp, no good, if it is oil to water, it's probably tool complicated and heavy. About 15 years ago we tried it on a time attack R32 with an RB26 which run really high oil temps and they sucked and I have never used them since.
What about over cooling? When should you not go for the thick 2 row radiator, should you disconnect your oil cooler during cold weather season? Are there other things to consider for your hot daily driver?
Great tips was wondering how u get foamy coolant around the water pump impeller at high rpm if u already bled the cooling system of air? Is it the gases like oxygen and other gases that is still in water that boils out and is separated from water at high temperature? Or is it that the temp is high and turning water into steam or a gas form?
I have a koyorad radiator now on my 21 wrx and my temps have been getting up to 224f is this operating temp good if I'm doing spirited driving I saw you said 230 isnt good
These are some of our tips for keeping the car cool.. What are yours?
I'm always in front so I never have an issue with getting max airflow to my radiator :-) LOL!
One other thing, a vacuum filler is a life saver. I have a Lotus Elise where there are numerous runs in the coolant system that trap air. Filling the system without it is a complete pain in the ass!
Electric water pump/assist pump
Mine is having a working fan clutch with a proper shroud
Turbulators prevent laminar flow and keep the liquid in turbulent flow. Turbulators are tuned to the cfm of the flow. Anything below the minimum cfm and the liquid will remain in laminar flow and the radiator will not cool as well.
Mike is the kinda guy you can talk with in any environment for hours and have a pleasant, no-B.S. experience.
Mike is the most genuine car enthusiast/tuner out there. Love these videos!
Great video Mike
cars DO NOT OVER HEAT, IF THEY Do
YOU have to repair it
This man spittin fax.
Mike always spittin fax.
Straight fax
For a few decades now
Always does
Lol sometimes but not really
I love the mention of electrolysis/ galvanic corrosion inside the engine. Mike, I swear if I ever have the money I'm going to send my 3SGE for you all to build. Love your content ❤
Great advice. If I may offer advice not mentioned: A mechanical clutch fan. I had done all of the mentioned tips in this video and my time attack camaro with a stout 383 would always get too hot on track. I had a popular oem electric fan setup on it and rather than spend 500+ on an insane brushless electric I simply bought a stock mechanical fan with thermal clutch. I deliberately left it unshrouded so that vortex ring state would limit hp loss at high rpm. I also went to an underdrive crank pulley. I also was able to duct the "prop wash" out of the hood quite easily.
IMMEDIATELY solved my cooling issues and set new personal lap records.
Just imagine what even a 3 hp electric motor looks like in size and youll realize no electric fan can really pull much air because they simply don't have enough power to do so.
I saved 6 lbs off the front end of the car to boot.
Seems weird when there are 900hp cars with electric fans not overheating.
@cuzz63 Yes, either they are on very high speed tracks or they are drag cars or street strip cars
Come to any small to medium road course with a 900 HP car in the summer and see if it doesn't melt down. Look at all the issues the C6 zo6 was having with all of GMs engineering might behind it. Nowhere near 900 hp.
There is a big difference between what works for a quarter mile run or a dyno session and what works on a race track where you run all out for 10,20,30 mins.
Watching him talk, you can tell Mike truly loves cars.
I remember walking into O’Reilley’s and asking for water wetter. Dude behind the counter didn’t even skip a beat and told me they didn’t carry that. I walked around the store and found it. Same dude ring me up and was like, “huh, I didn’t know we sold that.”
This guy is so chill but he really knows his stuff.
Walking performance-car-guy encyclopedia. What a legend this Mike dude.
Do a video on braking system setups 👍great videos btw
Good Idea!
When I heard Sacrificial Anode it was right their you know Mike Kojima knows something about chemical engineering, Pretty cool I love proven science and engineering.
Water wetter is AWESOME. I put it in my truck that I tow with. I was staying at 230F-240F consistently pulling a trailer up the mountains in Colorado. Then I did a cooling system flush and changed the radiator and added water wetter. Never get above 220F now.
Can I mix redline watter wetter with bmw coolant, or only with redlines coolant? Also does the water wetter last at least acyearcirctwo. That's when I usually change my coolant.
@@ericsivilla4091 it says it works with ethylene and propylene glycols. So it should he fine. If you are worried about your cooling system you can do an acid-base test to determine if your coolant is breaking down.
@@RadDadisRad thank you Sir
So basically, zero evidence that Water wetter did anything?
Spent forever trying to stop my turbo miata from getting hot on the highway and what fixed it was making an air dam/duct so no air could go around the radiator and intercooler. After like 10 minutes on the highway I would have to pull over and after I swapped it it keeps it cool enough the thermostat doesn’t have to open. I made it out of the same stuff people use for signs in their yard. Like those vote for this senator/ governor ones.
Cardboard is your best friend when doing home built fab projects on a budget!
Adding an under tray greatly improves radiator efficiency.
Because without one high pressure air builds up into engine bay from under.
And this can actually cause the radiator air flow to be so obstructed it actually reversed.
Look it up.
Don’t spend your fuel catching air in the front of the car.
Spend it spinning the tires.
You were probably missing your under tray.
thanks for not making your videos into 5 hour cancer vlog video playlist. your videos are info packed, simple to understand, professional, has solid explanations. I cant thank u enough
Great video. We are struggling with an LS in a 350z. We added a swirl pot (Merlin Motorsport - UK), lower thermostat (Summit racing 160), higher pressure cap (Moroso 23-25) and a vented hood. It might be our radiator, so that's next. We bought an expensive Flex-A-Lite (they quit making radiators recently) so we will probably go with a Koyorad next.
A 350z is one of the cars where an air lift is a must because the radiator is so low, we have to keep sucking for about 20 min, run the car and repeat a few times.
I love watching your videos Mike! Always so easy to digest and so informative! I'm an apprentice mechanic, not much money to pay for expensive stuff ups, so thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge!
Yes, couldn't of said it better myself
I’ve seen bro in quite a few videos about different areas and a bunch of insightful tips… I’d definitely pay him whatever he wants to build a car for me…
Man that’s so good you mentioned cavitation.
My classic ford mk1 escort has a Kent 1600-1700(90tho over sized) that revs to 8000rmp. The cast aluminium coolant outlet on the head shows massive cavities in the alloy after only 1500km of hard driving.
To the point I had a smaller crank pulley made. The alternator doesn’t like 8k either, so hopefully that is better now to.
If we could harvest cavitations energy for say pre combustion chambers water injection charge, we might be onto something.🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀😊😊
Most coolant flanges and block/head outlets benefit from porting.
Easier flow
Means less cavitation.
Thanks so much Mike! I'm a 60-something guy that's only got into tracking my car in recent years and every time I'm on the track I realize some modification I've made is not right, or not enough, and beside whatever I've done, I need more! So your vids are a great help. Thanks!!
I don't know why some people think every damn video is a product advertisement. You guys want me to just stand in front of an empty table with no visual aids all the time, get real, start your own channel...
hey there@@davconelectric , you sound like an arm chair wannabe "enthusiast." If you ever actually build a car for the track you'll realize there's a LOT of junk you can buy for your car. I appreciate that Mike gives some clues on quality products. If you wanna bitch and moan about product adverts, go ahead. But I'd asy your just a troll.
@@motoiq shots fired! You tell him buddy!
@@motoiqpoint taken
@@motoiq meanwhile i'm out here taking notes on what brands the real race cars use... that's like half of my research done right there! Thank you!!
Cheers Mike for the tip, using the funnel. I used one on my 1973 GT6 and it definitely dispelled more air
omg i like this guy vids he is so calm and kind and honest and he knows what he talking about
I've tried to explain electrolysis to so many people in and out side of automotive instances, and people are like.....wut? So when I heard
"the aluminum acts like a sacrificial anode and....gets all messed up"
it reminds me of all the tiems I started to explain electrolysis and, in the moment, realize I am about to lose my audience and need to keep it simple.
love Mike's explanations including both the laymen and in depth explanation for important concepts
The bleeder funnel with the lid works well with the liquid block test kits - All you need to do is cut approx 1" hole in that lid so the block test kit's tapered rubber bottom fits snuggly. Keep the coolant level in the tapered part of the funnel and use the block test kit as normal. I've gotten best results with this
Ooooh that’s a good idea!
Thanks!
It always sucks to lower the coolant level for the test and have the coolant level rise and spoil the test
This has been an excellent talk for car cooling tips for a new enthusiast like myself, understanding to tackle my problem of overheating SUV Ford Territory, after replacing its water pump. There are more to cooling system I realised and your TIPS have just blown away let say my TIP of the Iceberg"..thank you so much..
The ducting/sealing is no joke. I have this funky old Subaru GL, and because of that with an ej swap radiator has been a challenge. I put a honda half-rad in it, which is totally not adequate, at idle it won't stay cool (small pusher fan problems). But once I ducted the rad and taped up all the gaps with flashing tape, it cruises on the highway ice cold. It'll even get warm idling waiting to run at rallycross, and then get cooler over the course of the run. Related also is outflow air. If you have a big hood scoop for example, make sure it's not counter-acting the flow through the radiator, make sure your underbody is doing a good job to create that low pressure in the engine bay for the cooling air.
Mike looks like he's always on the verge of a chuckle. I love it.
Thanks for your service Mike been fallowing you since sr20forums
A big hello from Australia , thank you so much for all your advise , will apply your recommendations onto my SR / 20 DET .
Most of the stuff on the table is going on an SR powered S13!
Thank you for the good info! I like the 230/250 rule with engine temp and oil temp. I usually get to 222/246 on track and feel like the car is near it's limit instinctually, but now I have some information to back that up.
Thanks so much for sharing all the valuable information that has always been kept secret we are so blessed nowdays. Always listen to your elders
Thank you very much. We like your knowledge, skills, passion, and your smile.😊
Always the best advice from this man!
Thank you Mr. Treasure Trove! Love all your video's sir! The difference is in the detail for sure my man.
This is easily becoming my favorite channel
What a great professional! Congratulations for all knowledge you have and thanks for sharing.
I like how the ford FE engines in the Fairlanes and Galxies had the radiator expansion tank bolted straight to the thermostat housing above the block. Zero chance of the heads running dry due to elevation changes. There were plenty of cars during the 80s when their was a push for lower bonnet lines for reduced drag and better fuel efficiency that suffered from overheating and engine damage if the coolant level got low due to having the radiator at or not much abovethe cylinder head height, a risk that the other 98% of the population who arent petrolheads and treated their car as a simple appliance to take them from A to B everyday and didnt keep on top of maintenance.
Watching this guy is so relaxing. He’s so calm & has a cool smile. I bet people with anxiety would be cured just watching him 😁
My eclipse probably needs a bleed. Temp guage only hits 1/4 fully warmed up at idle. Driving it goes to the 1/2 mark until stopped. Ill try jacking the front up, thankyou for the advice. Also iron block and aluminum head, thankyou for the heads up.
I really like Gates green belts. I use them for my tow vehicle and also my supercharged f150z
Thank you Mike.
One better than the bleeder funnel is using one of those vacuum fillers. That way I can do a leak down test then flip a valve and pretty much fill the entire coolant system from there. That a Koyo radiator and using a swirl pot and high pressure cap on the pot and I haven't had any more problems with my G overheating at trackdays. That and I put in the Z1 oil cooler and got rid of the stock oil cooler (warmer?) sandwich plate.
I totally agree with you and we use one at the shop for known difficult cars like the RSX and the Z. This funnel is something that's cheap and makes a huge difference and everyone should use one!
+1 for the vacuum fillers. The NC miata is A TOTAL PAIN to bleed. The bubbles come out when they want to, not a second sooner. I'd have to drive in 1st gear at 6000 rpm around the neighborhood to finally push everything through. (Including the funnel, raising the car, revving, holding at 5000 rpm, anything.) Vacuum fill works every time.
@@TurboHappyCarThat's just God's way of telling you to k swap it.
@@ebf1003 Heeellll nooo. 😂 I'm completely happy with my ford fusion sedan engine that makes 50 hp less. 😅 My buddy k-swapped his NB and it had so many problems I don't think he completed a track day.
Super informative as always love the channel❤️
These Moto iq videos are such a great informative resource 🙏🏼
First let me tell you thank you the information you supply on this particular video and other ones are excellent for people to know including myself who want to get into check weekends No so keep doing what you do really appreciate it and I will spread the word if you have any stickers that you can provide me to put on my car to help with your channel I would love to do so
Get the Norma clamps with the integrated steel spring. It helps with thermal expansion and keep the pressure up.
Do you have a link for these?
@@louiC6Z NORMACLAMP® TORRO® that’s the name.
So much knowledge and experience, thank you sir!
Awesome video! Thank you for all the great info! 🤙
Thanks man. Lots of useful information and products I had no idea about. Appreciate it.
99 GC8 recreational car I use a racing tstat with stock radiator and stock radiator fans. I rewired my driver fan to a stand alone power switch and the passenger side fan activates like normal it turns on when Temps get 180d.
Great stuff! I didn’t know about the surge tank.
Very informative video. Thank you for taking the time to make it for us.
Thanks for your time.
Would love to see a video for non-racers (ie: Outback, Forester, non-turbos cars). Say "mods" that might work...AOS, upgraded hoses, bushings, lubing certain parts, battery, etc
For non performance car generally Genuine OEM stock is the best.
@@motoiqthanks. Anyone ever install an AOS in a non-turbo car?
If it has blowby issues its not a bad idea.
👏👏👏💯💯💯&🎯
Great information Mike!!
This man must be protected at all costs!
Great stuff and explanations. 👍👍👍👍
Not selling/shilling snake oil or miracle products, birthed by the marketing departments.
Norma clamps is great!
Wonderful information. Thank you
Great video, I overheated just seeing that global time attack car in the background 😜
Great info !
What about oil coolers for naturally aspirated drift cars/ track cars?
Yes, every track specific car needs one
Great stuff Mike. Thanks.
Good stuff as always Mike! What is your opinion on heat shrink hose clamps (Gates power grip etc)?
I heard they work well but have no actual experience with them.
I hope you never stop making these types of videos, thank mr katt
Tell us about the green Camry in the back? Maintenance and suspension for a few topics?
Actually its a Corolla, bone stock, and 300k miles on it. It's Martins's beater, runs like a champ!
@@motoiq can you tell me anything about the 5s fe engine? Is there anything else besides maintenance that I can buy to squeeze out more reliability?
if you want to remove overheating issues on performance builds I would recommend 2 or even 3 separate cooling system circuits running at different temps, i would add a lower temp system running at ambient/ room temps for the turbo and air to water intercooler and on extreme builds high HP, street and track a hotter temp system thermosiphon and heat pipes on the exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust housing
You do not want to remove heat pre turbine, it wrecks turbine efficiency. Don't recommend things you have never done, and are not done.
@@motoiq WOW your ignorant, dont assume im saying the turbo should be cold. Im saying to add a regulatory HOT cooling system for the exaust and turbo to help it heat up like the engine thermostat to regulate the temperature so its not too low or high being to high is usually the problem, gets too hot beyond the usable effective temp range to help spool up the turbo with heat
Actually do some research on how the otto cycle thermodynamics, turbomachines and exhaust pulse tuning works before you call me ignorant. You do not take energy out of the system that is driving VE. If your engine is running hot, you do not cool the exhaust but add more heat exchanger capacity for the coolant, the charge air and oil. If your exhaust is too hot and you are damaging the engine, you fix the incorrect tuning parameters that are causing it as they are also reducing your power and efficiency. You do not cool the exhaust. The only cases of cooling exhaust are in boats, for sound suppression reasons, the center sections of turbos to reduce post shutdown coking and sometimes wastegates to avoid damage to the diaphragms if they are in areas with poor air circulation. That is very limited cooling and none of these reasons are to help cool the engine.
@motoiq pretty sure we spoke about pulse timing before i corrected you and gave a good explanation lesson on pulse width modulation and high and low pressure zones, it was on a 2 stroke short video you had, i understand thermodynamics, and heat dispersion rates and thermal conductivity values, i have designed turbo systems and even rebuilt, upgraded, ported the turbo with aftermarket parts while retaining the ballance,
Thanks!
Great job and very detailed as always. Thanks.
Hello, would you recommend a lower temp thermostat aswell? Thanks!
some times
Well explained. Will apply these to my xr 6t. Thanks for info.
most important thing is the thermostat operation and overall capacity, don't add bottlenecks make sure valve is opening fully and check the opening temp to fully open temp range, install a performance thermostat, Increase the weep hole size so the valve opens more gradually, I would recommend adding a electronic bypass or cable dash mounted/electronic valve to open up flow when you start flooring the gas or before a large hill when towing as the thermostat is slow to react sometimes, make sure the radiator fan turns on when you slow down
Like I said, don't recommend things that you have never done. OEM systems have bypasses in them to ensure that the thermostat see's the engines operating temperature. The holes in thermostats are to keep air out of the engine and to make sure it's purged, even before the thermostat opens.
@motoiq @motoiq who do you think you are... WTF.. dont recommend things that have not done?!? Not only have i done this but it doesn't take a high IQ to understand the benefits, i used a Bosch electric pump and got good results, not sure why your commenting, probably shouldn't be working on vehicles if you have this terrible attitude, borderline misinformation, you didnt even mention the thermostat in your video almost all overheating issues related to the cooling system itself is thermostat, leaking or no flow, they fail after about 10 years and or alot of thermo cycling, they stop opening all the way, other not directly linked systems would be lean fuel mix, burnt exhaust valves,
If you advocate exhaust cooling systems to improve engine cooling, you don't understand engineering or how engines work. I doubt you have any real motorsports experience If you come up with multistage exhaust cooling systems to reduce engine operating temperature, I would like to see anything you have done with much success in the racing world. The thermostat is rarely the cause of overheating unless it fails. Tinkering in your home garage isn't a success. I could come up with the math proving you are wrong but it's not worth it for someone who is either a troll or clueless.
@motoiq im talking about extreme high performance engines that make 2000HP+ i have even seen 4 cylinder engines making 2000 to 3000hp and are used for circle track racing Thor racing engines they build a ridiculous amount of heat, and run them at least 1500hp, engine is basically a heater/pump, the high temp system would be for stuff like when you see the pipes going to the turbo glowing red hot in one pull on the dyno, stop the aluminum from melting
I am not aware of any circle racing class where 4 cylinders produce 2000-3000 hp. Thor engines are rated for that sort of power but as far as I know they are so far used only in time attack and drag racing. Even in that case the exhaust systems are not cooled. You are literally taking energy away from the turbine by doing this. Removing heat from the exhaust isnt going to make a difference upstream of it. Glowing red hot isnt such as big deal. Most really tuned cars glow red hot on the dyno, even street cars.
Thank you for this knowledge. I like the 95 Corolla back there!
Amazing. As a senior degreed design ME, I am awed to see such depth. Thank you for such a clear, deep, clever and enjoyable presentation.
You're very welcome!
Great info Mike !
Didnt know they had thermostats for the oil system thats awesome
I have a 350z, so the underdriven belt doesn't affect the water pump due to the water pump being chain driven off the crank. But I have lowered temps with hood vents, header wrap, upgraded radiator, and Z1 oil pan spacer for extra oil capacity. All the small changes make a big difference, think i'll look into a swirl pot now since the car is virtually impossible to bleed lol
Used a vacuum bleeder too. The 350 is really hard to get all the air out.
Just curious do notice a big difference in running the redline supercool 50/50 premix vs oem 50/50 + water wetter?
we didnt test that
Been using Koyo aluminum racing radiators for years but the Australian company PWR has a track version that tests to do a better job specifically made for the track. Got one for my fk8. It costs more but it’s proven on the track.
They are very good radiators.
Thanks 🙏
Referring to "tucked" radiator setups with AN hoses on a dedicated track car -- Any pros/cons in cooling / coolant flow when converting from traditional rad hoses (Larger Hose I.D) to AN-hoses (Smaller Hose I.D) + fittings?
On high-powered race, track, and drift cars other than drag racers, we have had lots of problems with those setups.
Great info here! I wonder what mods does the ae100 have🤔😂
stock beater
What's your thoughts on installing an electric water pump? Especially when coming off the track, wired up the high speed on the radiator fan and pump and leave it on till the temps go below150 degrees and allows the engine to be off.
Great video! Very informative
So 1 bottle of Diesel Wetter Water did improve the temps in my case. Been running it for about 2 weeks now. History DETROIT Series 60 11.1L rebuilt 4 months ago, new radiator 1 month ago. It was running 10-20 degree hotter than my old leaky radiator 1 bottle of WW has drop the temps, gonna try a 2nd to see if I can get it down to run evencooler while pulling hills loaded. What I think is happening is that Wetter Water is coating the inside of the aluminum/copper radiator and fresh piston sleeves making the coolant flow faster past the new fresh rough surfaces. Honestly I really didnt expect to see any change at all but I have.
If taking video ideas, I would like to request a 4g63 video. Thanks!
coming!
Well Done!
Thank You.
thanks you very much.
Have any experience with water cooled oil coolers? Thinking of maybe doing it because of packing reasons.
They don't seem to work that well in my experience.
OEM's generally use those because they help with warming up the oil faster. You would need a huge one if you want to actually use it for effective cooling on track.
Also heats up the coolant
@@motoiqwhat about laminova?
If it's cooled by engine coolant, it's sort of an oil heater or you are trying to exchange heat with a fluid that is almost the same temp as your target temp, no good, if it is oil to water, it's probably tool complicated and heavy. About 15 years ago we tried it on a time attack R32 with an RB26 which run really high oil temps and they sucked and I have never used them since.
Thank you sir!!
Thanks Mike for another quality video…but what’s up with that old grocery getter Corolla in the back 👀
It's Martins 300k beater, runs great!
@@motoiq he's a man of good taste 🧐
What about over cooling? When should you not go for the thick 2 row radiator, should you disconnect your oil cooler during cold weather season? Are there other things to consider for your hot daily driver?
I would not worry unless you live where it's really cold!
do you recommend every car have some coolant additive to keep engine temps down?
FACTS ! good video man
great video great advice
This man is nothing short of GENIUS.
I believe every word he speaks as gospel.
Swirl pot at the vent vs inline to the radiator. Why and ot when is it needed?
Great tips was wondering how u get foamy coolant around the water pump impeller at high rpm if u already bled the cooling system of air? Is it the gases like oxygen and other gases that is still in water that boils out and is separated from water at high temperature? Or is it that the temp is high and turning water into steam or a gas form?
google cavitation
This guy should be in a podcast.
I have a koyorad radiator now on my 21 wrx and my temps have been getting up to 224f is this operating temp good if I'm doing spirited driving I saw you said 230 isnt good